1995 Chevy/Geo Metro Real World MPG

altonctaltonct Member Posts: 2
edited August 2014 in Chevrolet
I just purchased a 1995 Geo hatchback lsi (1.3L, automatic), and am getting just 27 mpg. Is there a serious problem with this car? Is there anything I can do to improve the mileage significantly?


  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    I went to www.fueleconomy.gov to check what the EPA estimates for the '95 are.

    26 City, 31 Highway, 28 combined.

    With no info on what type of driving is getting 27mpg for you, I'd say you're in the range. Now if that's your on your first tank (since you just purchased), I'd say give yourself some time to become accustomed to drving the car and see how the mileage performance goes. The conditions you have to drive in may result in numbers like that. My first instinct is that you're not looking at some kind of serious issue with the car.

    I'm a definite believer in preventative maintenance with my vehicles and use mileage performance as a barometer of the car's health. A sudden change in mileage can be an indicator that something might not be right.

    You might want to get an oil change/tuneup to clear those kind of issues and see how that affects your mileage. That will also set your starting point for thinking about regular oil, changes, etc.
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    Since we don't currently have a real world mileage discussion for the Metro, I'll rename this discussion and we'll use it as the starting point.
  • dowensdowens Member Posts: 2
    I bought my Geo 2 door hatchback in May of 2006 with 79K on it. It is the 4cyl. with auto. and air. I have put 13K on it since then and get great milage. I go from Cleveland OH to Knoxville TN a couple of times a year and get 42mpg thru KY (40mpg using the A/C.) I then go to lower VA and get 45mpg (43mpg using the A/C). I then come back to Cleveland and get 40pg thru WV (37 mpg using the A/C) I go 11 hundred miles for the whole trip.In the winter I get approx.2mpg less than with A/C in the summer.After 4 such trips with this car milage has remained the same. I have a self installed cruise control that runs off the tach. instead of the speed. I use it the whole trip and it pulls all the hills. It slows down approx. 3mph going up hill, and speeds up approx.4mph going down hill. I drive like an old man because I am one. Usually I never drive over 65 mph even in the 70mph areas. I keep to the right always and haven't had any trouble with road rage. The Geo is Noisy on the road and I had to Raise my seat 2in. in the back and 1.5 in. in the front to be comfotable. This is a truelly a great little car if you use it as intended. I also installed a man size horn as nobody listens to the squeeker that came on it. :D
  • altonctaltonct Member Posts: 2
    Is your Geo newer than 1995? I don't do much highway driving with my car, but I can't imagine getting mileage like you're getting on the highway with my car. I was expecting to get mileage in the mid to high 30s with a car this size, thus am disappointed with the car. I plan to drive it only about 3 - 4,000 miles per year, so I hope that at least it is trouble free.
  • metrochekyoselmetrochekyosel Member Posts: 1
    right on! i also installed a louder horn in my metro. a bull horn! now non-drivers take notice.
    -metrochekyoself REPRESENT!!!
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    Before this spins off into something else, let's remember that this is a discussion about mileage performance.
  • sduebametrosduebametro Member Posts: 1
    My car wouldn't start and was making a loud scary noise. I had it towed to a dealership. They said that my air conditionoing compressor broke and that I can just remove the system to bypass it....it has locked up my engine. In the meantime, all of my attempts to start it before I had it towed apparently damaged the starter. Does this sound legit? This all happened after I got gas...could it be bad gas too? My air conditioning has not worked in a year...why would it shut my car down now? :cry:
  • lance13lance13 Member Posts: 1
    I just joined this group. About the mileage with my Metro. I bought it spanking new in Feb.2000. Right out of the box around town driving I averaged 39 --->42 mpg.(I had a courier service then) My first road trip with was from Everett WA. to Portland OR. I set the cruise control at 75mph. The round trip got me 45mpg. After a while I started to run these trips to Portland at 60mph. My gas mileage exceeds 55+mpg consistantly. One thing I figured out about this little car is..."ITS NOT A ROCKETSHIP". But once I get up to speed with the cruise control set it hangs on pretty good. It just takes a while to get up to speed. I change the oil regularly around 6-7 thousand miles. One quart of DURA-LUBE at each change. Every month i add a whole container of Chevron fuel conditioner to keep things cleaned out. To this day, my car does not smoke or leak. I have 162500 miles on the O D. I changed the clutch and the transmission at around 140000. People can say what they want about these little cars. But personally I like them.
  • gnusman53gnusman53 Member Posts: 3
    Several years ago, I bought a 94 Geo 2 door....no AC and was getting nearly 55mpg in freeway/state rural highway (with stop signs)....in city driving, more than 42mpg

    I bought a used 99 Metro in 2003....with A/C...getting slightly less.....

    I'm keeping it.

    And if GM wants my business, they will have to sell a vehichle that gets as much or better in mileage.

    Currently, I have slightly more than 80,000 miles on the odometer.
  • jsimon63jsimon63 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 96 2 dr 1.3 with auto trans and I have gotten close to your mileage numbers. I bought the car 2 years ago with 16K on it and it was a insurance right off with very minor damage to the front bumper and one head light. With a few parts tossed at it and back on the road I now have 57K on it. I run the A/C almost every day in this hot weather and so long as I keep the speed around 60 or above, it makes acceptable power. Anyway,your added cruise control... I added rosta cruise to mine when I got it on the road and was wondering about your hook up. I have mine hooked to the speed censor wire at the computer and my speed is rarely held steady, sometimes worse then others. Can you tell me what you did to make this tach hook up work? Thanks! I'm on my second Metro! Gotta love em
  • tractionpadstractionpads Member Posts: 2
    I'm really interested in getting a good used Geo Metro. What about engine life on the 3-cylinder? About how long before a rebuild is required? And can a 3-cylinder engine be really successfully rebuilt, or does it develop incorrectible balance problems over much time and miles?

    It's really neat to read about gas mileage based on actual experience, not on theoretical figures!

    Thank you!
  • tractionpadstractionpads Member Posts: 2
    In the Geo Metro, does an automatic get as good gas mileage as a stick shift? Different for different years?

    Thanks again.
  • jsimon63jsimon63 Member Posts: 2
    The auto trans doesn't have over drive. The stick does, 5th gear is over drive. The auto trans has a fluid coupling and slips some even with a lock up converter. The 5 speed has a mechanical coupling, the clutch, and should not be slipping at all. The auto trans does just that, it shifts automatically, not always when you would like it too! The 5 speed you pick the gear that works best for your situation. The 5 speed does get better mileage.
  • lhansonlhanson Member Posts: 268
    No you loose about 10 mpgs. You can check it out at www.fueleconomy.gov.
  • wanahelpwanahelp Member Posts: 4
    had a 87 geo metro hatchback, wife drove it 107 miles to work and back, mostly nonstop new mex. driving got 54 miles to the gallon,. now she has a 98 chevy metro hatchback for same trip with ac gets 50 miles to gallon. think enviorment of trip may cost some mileage for others experiance.
  • wanahelpwanahelp Member Posts: 4
    the air conditioner compressor has a bearing in the pully wheel that can wear out and they do. when this happens it will lock down motor unless the belt is removed. the starter can be over heated and destroyed by trying to get the motor to turm over when it will not. any thing over about 9 seconds or continually trying it with out sufficent cooldown between tries{about 1 minute}.
    do not give the ac parts to dealer as they have value and can be sold by them. your compressor probaly needs a 30 dollar clutch to be as good as new. the rest of the parts would sell for over 1000 dollars as reconditioned. remanufactured compressor goes for around 300.
  • 92metroowner92metroowner Member Posts: 1
    Driving at 55 mph or so, I've gotten as high as 62.6 mpg, on a 500 mile trip segment. With the air conditioning occasionally on, in city driving, I get 49-50 mpg. It has 107K miles.
  • corvairbobcorvairbob Member Posts: 27
    i have a 2000 metro that gets around the 30-35 mpg. i drive a steady 60-65 mph on the x-way and on the yahoo site they all claim to get in the 40-60 mile mark. i have questioned them about this but they are just bragging. now you say you set the cruise brand new out of the box. the metro never came with cruise. the dealer may have installed it though.
  • corvairbobcorvairbob Member Posts: 27
    the metro/geo has no lock up auto trans. never did
  • corvairbobcorvairbob Member Posts: 27
    the newer car is heaver the the older one that is why you get poorer mileage.
  • plzionplzion Member Posts: 7
    My 93 Metro 3 dr with 5 speed 3 cylinder gets 50 mpg city and 48 mpg on long trips (we usually do 75-85 mpg when in the interstate) and we usually go up and down over mountain ranges.

    My wife's 2001 (I believe that is the year) 4 door LSI auto 4 cylinder gets as good as 37 mpg and as low as 25 mpg. It really needs an overdrive gear and torque converter lock up to make it really impressive on gas mileage.

    Even at 40 mph it feels and sounds like it needs to change gears. GM is very great about overdrive automatics, but on this GM/Suzuki model, the damn bean counters won out apparently to the detriment of the consumer and the reputation of the automatic equipped car.

    I'm not aware of any automatic for many years previous to it that came without overdrive...In this day and age, it is not excuseable. That is my only gripe about that car.
  • guerrero3366guerrero3366 Member Posts: 1
    "do not give the ac parts to dealer as they have value and can be sold by them. your compressor probaly needs a 30 dollar clutch to be as good as new. "

    My question is : Do you think is a do it yourself job to install the 30 dollar clutch or the bearing that went bad on my AC?? My AC makes that noice ,I disconected the belt, noise no longe exist but I know I have the bearing problem as it make noise if I conect the bell., or when i spin the wheel that hold the belt in place. If one can do it were can I buy the parts? Any help would be greate. Love this little car. 2001 Chevy Metro LSI 4 door 1.3cc engine. :blush:
  • threeclarksthreeclarks Member Posts: 2
    My '89 Geo Metro LSi used to get right around 60 MPG. After the engine was rebuilt and I only do city driving (no highway), I seem to be averaging just under 40 MPG. My commute though now is about 55 miles per week, so I just fill up once per month. Very convenient and very cost effective.
  • rblumerblume Member Posts: 3
    Yours probably has the 4-cyl (-10mpg) and the automatic (-10mpg), drive over 60 mph and the mileage drops as well---I have a 5spd manual 3-cyl, with 160,000, and with the pedal buried I get 38mpg, (Ihavent personally got much higher mileage but
    I drive it pretty hard)
  • lindavlindav Member Posts: 1
    Just one girl's experience: Back in the day, I drove an 89 Chevy Sprint for 11 years, a three cylinder, manual transmission with air conditioning. I regularly got 54 to 56 mpg, down to 48 if I used the AC. Really needed this vehicle at that time, because my daily commute was 122 mi. Sometimes got 400 miles per fill-up.

    Recently had a career change that will soon require me to drive 450 mi. per week. I had never forgotten my Sprint, so I researched both Sprint and its Geo successors as I approached this career change. I decided to locate a Geo Metro 4-cylinder, manual transmission, with air conditioning, between 95 and 97, and began a 5 state hunt for The Car. They are *very* hard to find and, combined with the fact that total cost was an important factor for me, I knew I had to locate one in functional but restorable condition -- couldn't afford the few fully reconditioned ones I was able to find. (These were running between $4500 and $6000.)

    Settled on a 96 2 door hatchback -- good interior, almost zero body rust, good AC, new exhaust system, new tires, good engine and tranny, 102,000 mi. Clearly needed a clutch pack, but gave me 40 MPG in less than optimum condition right off the lot for $1400. My mechanic added an axel and a front brake job to his list of needed repairs, but this was still within my budget.

    One serious piece of bad news almost undid me. Although the car was accident-free, a full inspection revealed the front portion of the frame was seriously rusted in strategic places. I had to decide whether to sell it back to the dealer, make $600 of mechanical repairs and expect the car to last a max of 18 months --- or, double my acquisition cost by adding a frame repair, and try to make the car immortal.

    I did my arithmetic, conservatively, and calculated that if I were able to sell off my lovely 2002 Dodge Stratus for $2000, the gas savings would pay for the Geo Metro *and* its repairs in nine months.

    So, I'm going for "immortal". A thorough restoration now will cut my gasoline cost in half for the foreseeable future. And I happen to *really* enjoy driving this car again. Not everyone would like it. But in return for feeling a little bit like Fred Flintstone behind the wheel, I also feel like I am beating The Establishment (just like the old days) by getting where I want to go in comfort, at half-price.

    I'm no mechanic, but I pay attention when my mechanic and my body man explain things, and I get under the hood or under the lift with them. I think I made a decision that will satisfy me, though it might not be for everyone.

    Hope this might help some others in their decision-making.

  • petsr4ever05petsr4ever05 Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I recently purchased a '91 Geo-Metro, 3 cylinder 5 speed. I just had a new muffler, tailpipe and o2 sensor put into it, plus I had the compression checked (it was good), the oil changed and a general tune-up. It runs just great, but there is a problem. I am only getting around 30, 31 mpg. This is all highway driving. What could the problem be? Shouldn't I be getting around 40+mpg? I live in North Dakota, and drive it to work and back which is 68 miles round trip. Straight highway all the way. Oh, and by the way, I know this is gonna sound really dumb (I am a woman), but how many gallons does my tank hold? :confuse: ">
  • rblumerblume Member Posts: 3
    if you have a repoir with your mechanic you might ask him to advance the timing for you, I had to advance mine as far as it would go to get decent acceleration/mileage, but if you get pinging under acceleration they would have to back it off for you, also keep it under 70mph,,, I only get about 8gallons in mine but I have to bury the gauge before I fill it---hope this helps
  • luckinsluckins Member Posts: 63
    I had to sell my 94 Geo Metro recently after owning it for about 12 years. I consistently got 33 MPG all around, both city and highway. I often got 43 MPG on the highway. I haven't found another American car that has this good gas mileage since. U.S. automakers need to start making more fuel efficient cars like this one, or more medium-sized hybrids.

    I miss my Geo already, but I had to get a new car because it was beginning to die and I couldn't risk being stranded out in the desert with it.
  • victorh61victorh61 Member Posts: 3
    hello everybody... when turn A/C on ... the RPM going down to much. anybody know where is the problem and how to fix it.
    thank you
  • luckinsluckins Member Posts: 63
    I didn't realize that they made this car with AC because the engine is so small. It seems to be drawing a lot of power that is affecting the engine. That's all I can say.
  • luckinsluckins Member Posts: 63
    Awww, too bad I didn't know about you a few weeks ago. I had a 1994 Metro that had a few problems, but had been a very good car. I traded it in and heard it was sold and is probably in Baja by now from what the dealer says. Maybe you'll see it in the Baja races in the future all tricked out. :D

    A couple of years ago, someone left a note on my car offering to buy it, but I thought it was a joke and ignored it. Now, after reading a lot of reviews on this car, I realize that the offer could have been serious.
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    The forums cannot be used to buy and sell vehicles, or any other items for that matter. So I've removed the posts about buying and selling Metros.
  • luckinsluckins Member Posts: 63
    Sorry about that!

  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    Not a biggie, just need a friendly reminder now and then! ;)
  • jon53jon53 Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know of a way to add an over drive gear to a metro automatic 3 speed transmisson?
    Thank you.
  • suz13suz13 Member Posts: 10
    My transmission mechanic disconnected the neutral safety switch on my 97 Geo automatic because it was not functioning right. He claimed there is no rush to replace it because I could "drive it like a stick without the clutch" and that I would probably see better gas milage out of it. Well...great ! Whats not to like about a clutchless stick? I have had no obvious problems. But I feel the car does not like going over 50mph unless very slowly worked up to it. Almost as if it's climbing it's own Bell Curve in those upper highway speeds. Unless I'm accelerating up a long slow highway upgrade, then my little Geo seems to eat up the challenge leaves everything but sports cars in the dust ! There is nothin obviously wrong. I just feel like the car would like a better way to get into the 4th gear which I don't got ! So this leads me to wonder if there is really a 4th gear that it would be beneficial to actualy shift the car into with my hand on the shift ! ? It seems no one can answer my question, but only offer unsubstantiated warnings of it "not being good for my transmission". Well it hasn't done any apparent harm as of yet. I just wanna understand my Geo as best I can so that I can fix things before they break so it can give me years of good gas milage a safe drive. Performance ? Performance to me - is getting me to work cheaply and safely. . . for a very long time. I bought it 2 yrs ago off a used car lot cause it was cute, small, and basic, and that was before the gas crunch. Family & friends laughed at me and called it a lawn mower. Then gas went up ! Now when they pull up to the pump with cars that get less than 30 MPG and complain . . I remind them how they ridiculed me. And after finding Edmunds Web Site I've learned alot about the Geo Metro and feel lucky to own one.
  • plzionplzion Member Posts: 7
    My Co-Workers' hubby is a Transmission Shop owner. He said, no you can not put in an overdrive gear. He said if you want to do that, you can either swap it with a Manual gearbox (which he really didn't want to do), or better yet, buy a metro w/a gearbox. My wife's 2000 LSI auto sedan is a great little car, aside from lack of overdrive...It's been getting a little over 30mpg city miles this summer. I have a 93 Metro 5 speed, that recently has been "only" getting upper 40's city driving, so we tend to use it more than the auto Metro. I also posted previously on this forum in the #20's if I recall. They are very good little cars...Grateful to have them.
  • suz13suz13 Member Posts: 10
    Thank you for responding & confirming what I suspected. Many Geo's can get over 40mpg ! At first I thought some of these people were stretching it in the tale department, but I sometimes get almost 39mpg with my "automatic" 4cylinder. Unfortunately I drove my Geo a bit too hard and now it has 1 worn "wrist pin" on 1 of the pistons but my mechanic said I should stay under 65MPH on the highway & keep the AC off. I can do that. It is using more oil than before the wrist pin went bad. I think part of the reason it went bad was because I let the oil get a little too low a time or two. I think running the engine hot deformed the wrist shape. My mechanic (a trainy specialist) said my Geo could last a few days or a few years - so....treat it nice & easy & keep the fluids topped off always! I told him how much I love the car & have an idea of buying another this year to use my current for part scavenging. He thought that was a good idea being that I love the car so much. I'd prefer to switch to a manual transmission but think maybe I should choose an automatic as close to the model I already have so that I can be sure to get the most out of scavenging parts.
  • plzionplzion Member Posts: 7
    I have learned that even 1/2 quart low on the dipstick (not the 1 quart marked on the stick) makes an important difference on how well the engine lubricates. You go 1 quart low, and the Metro will develop new noises in the engine, and even end up quickly developing a bad habit of burning a lot of oil. I had a low mileage used engine (6 mo/6000 miles warranty) put in by a company in Layton, UT about 4 years ago, called Japanese Engine Exchange. They cost more now that many Metros are being pulled out of people's back yards, and putting in another engine.

    Don't go more than 4000 miles between oil changes, or you will also, find your engine burning oil.

    My engine does not burn any oil between oil changes, after 65000 of my miles.

    I listen to the engine when I start & I allow it to idle up to 60 seconds before I drive off (I do have to go up a steep grade). I can literally hear the change when the upper parts of the motor start to really lubricate properly. The sound is subtle, but it is there once you notice it. I really believe that this has made a huge difference for the motor.

    I never fail to do this if has been more than 2 hours since I drove it (when the temperatures are mild).

    I paid $1200 for the 3 cylinder engine, including installation. I recently heard that the cost has gone up several hundred since then, but everything has gone up with that gasoline cost increasing.

    Until last year, my Manual 3 cylinder Always got 50+ mpg; city/hwy.

    Mine now needs a new engine computer, sort of; Meaning that the portion that acts like a computers RAM (basically instant memory used for start up) no longer works, so the computer has to take about 20 seconds to (quoting my mechanic" "remember how to make the engine run most efficiently, again".

    Because the Automatic has no overdrive to reduce the engine speed, the Manual stick shift feels like the engine will last a lot longer. I also prefer to drive the Manual on trips as it wears on your body a lot less, than with the high revving auto tranny. Hope this helps. :)
  • seaman59seaman59 Member Posts: 2
    Can bad motor mounts cause the car to sound like a loud truck?: :confuse:Also can bad motor cause bad mpg?
  • chodkowskichodkowski Member Posts: 1
    Thanks to everyone out there, I have learned alot about my metro from reading forums. I have a 2000 manual 3 cylinder metro. I've been reading hypermileing techniques and I keep my tires maxed, slow down, time red lights and just get my car up to speed and barely touch the accelarator to keep the car moving. I get average mileage between 54-58 city/hwy mixed. My top mpg has been 68.2. We have it all with this car, gas sipping 3 cylinder engine plus the car weighs nothing. 50% of your mpg's is the driver.
  • tlworkroomtlworkroom Member Posts: 9
    I have a beatup 1991 Geo Prizm 4 cyl with AT, purchsed with 120K on engine, and took me 3 years to fully clean up engine, mostly inside. Started with about 28 mpg hwy/25 city. Over years, got it up to 30 mpg hwy AND city for several years. But this spring, did many changes, especially installing Bosch "+2" plugs, and started getting around 35 mpg hwy. (new Bosch plugs gave me better mpg and also generally better mild acceleration.) Drove to Iowa and back to NM, (with 240K miles on engine) and was even getting 38-9 mpg hwy on way back!! Thot I had a constant tailwind.

    Driving mostly 60-65 mph. But even up to 75 still got me mid 30's. I was astonished, and still am getting about 33 mpg city now!! I love Geo's!!
    (Also have always used Prolong oil additive to help engine run smoother. Firm believer in its ability to help my engine last so long up to 240K miles. Will have a celebration when it gets to 300K.)
  • fincenmibfincenmib Member Posts: 4
    Your posting is what I was looking for all day today! The projected mileage posible if driven carefully. I owned a 2000 Geo Metro with the 4 cyc Automatic and 42 mpg was my best tank. I averaged 37 mpg in my highway driving, about 30 mpg on mixed driving. The car moved like a "bat out of hell", it was fast for a 4 banger. My kids inhereted it and I bought another car and later a truck. The kids wanted power steering and a year later, my neighbor bought my Geo, he still has it.

    With high gas prices I went out looking for a 3 cyc. Stick and bought one on ebay. It was a 300 mile drive one way to get a pretty straight body. I checked with my mechanic first about dropping a low mileage Japanese engine in, assumng one might be needed. One was needed, it was burning 1 quart of oil per 100 miles, OUCH! The good side was I drove it 800 miles and fuels it every 110 miles to check fuel consumption. Filling into the neck, it got 46-55 mpg with a bad engine! Not bad!

    With a new to me engine and trans, I am hoping to get that 68.2 you mentioned. I want to try a few long trips without gimmick products, then consider some of those later. I am one of those that deposited $500. on a future Aptera, so the Geo is keeping me busy until the SUPERCAR goes into production. I have driven 5,000 miles in the past 25 days, so I need something that scores record mpg.

    Thanks for the mpg info you posted.

  • looking4acar1looking4acar1 Member Posts: 1
    We are looking to buy a 2001 chevy metro sedan w/50,000 miles from a private owner. Most all the consumer reviews I've read have been very positive re safety, reliability, gas mileage, etc. We plan to use this back and forth to the train and for daily college commute for our son. Before we commit we'll have our mechanic take a look. Any pros/cons on this car and any specific things our mechanic should look for before purchasing?
  • fincenmibfincenmib Member Posts: 4
    Automatic or stick? From 1996 forward Air Bags were required I believe. Be sure the Air Bags are functional and be wary if they were ever deployed, then why? I had a 2000 and had no complaints. I lost mine to my kids because it was and automatic and sold it to raise money for a Toyota Camry that became our nightmare. Mine had 175,000 miles on it and it still runs like a top, one of my neighbors bought it for his daughter. Watch out for rust and consider if you get a straight body, a Japanese engine is only about $800. plus labor and thats not bad if you get it cheap enough. Less than 50,000 miles will mean paying a premium for the car you find and if its cheap with 50k on it, find out why? These little cars are going up in price when in good cond. by 2000 there was a glut of 4 cyc. with automatics.

  • researchwhizresearchwhiz Member Posts: 2
    1994 Geo Metro, 1.3-automatic, 3-cylinder, 2-door hatchback. Mileage=40,272, automatic. I purchased this car used and needing repair. After eliminating the Ignition sensors one-by-one, I purchased the Park/Neutral Safety Switch (Digital Transmission Range Sensor?) It's location is up in the steering column, It is a black circuit box marked with a "P".

    Part #4339, CON SN 7614 REV CI, PG 2007-4.

    On one end there are 4-connections:
    Side One:
    2-push on connectors,
    1-plastic with 6-wires in this order: Red, orange, purple, green, black-thick dull, red.
    1-plastic with 3-wires in this order: Red, Black-thin shiney, Black-thick dull.

    Empty slot: says CN4
    The Blk-thick dull connected to Blk/Yellow wire.
    The Blk-thin-shiney connected to green wire.
    The Red, connected to White/Blue comming from ignition (using clip connection).
    The Blk-thick dull, to Black/Yellow comming from ignition (using clip connection).
    And 2-Blk-thin shiney wires to ground screw.

    Slot says CN5
    On the other side of the part there is a white cable with a hint of brown on the #1 position (looks like a computer IDE ribbon), or like a computer drive cable, about 1-inch wide and 18-inches long.

    I do not know where this cable goes, or what it hooks into. The car won't run without this part connected, and functional.

    This car was stolen, I just regained possession after 8-months. It was mal-treated physically. It was also hot-wired, but no wiring was cut; they rigged a toggle switch from the alternator by alligator clips, and ran the wires to driver's seat where the toggle switch was.

    The car was running the other day, but my son's friend somehow-accidently disconnected this cable, now the car won't run and I can't locate where it should run to for connection.

    I am moving and have only a couple of days to remove our possessions, and have no other way to to this. I am extremely grateful for your advice, and consideration. Thank you.
  • suz13suz13 Member Posts: 10
    My neutral safety switch died also (98 4cyl automatc, geo metro). My transmission specialist disconnected it - told me to drive it like a stick with no clutch. Everyone I spoke to grumbled & said that cant be good for the car. But guess what ? I've been driving it that way over a year and its just fine ! I don't drive it over 60mph because I think its really doesnt feel right uphill on the highway going over 60 (it feels like its straining) But I don't mind staying under 60mph because I used to get speeding tickets! Besides my Geo Metro gets 35 - 39 miles per gallon and I will keep trying to ressurrect this car from the dead until I just cant no more. I put a new catalytic converter,muffler,long pipe, fuel filter & fuel pump in during the 3 yrs (total cost $$700) since I bought it for $4G off a used car lot. I keep finding junk men & mechanics coming to me with 13 inch tires they cant give away so I get tires cheap (snows too). I intend to put another used engine in it very soon because I was stupid enough to let the oil get down to nothing 2 times which distorted 1 out of 4 of the wrist pins. I'm keeping oil topped off & using Lucas oil stbilizer until my mechanic locates an engine. I can not afford another used car and I'd never find another with this MPG so I hope to keep driving my Geo another two or three years, then retire it for parts for maybe a newer used Chevy Metro. Good luck with yours. Remember . . you may be able to drive yours with the Neutral Safety Switch discconnected like I do. I swear it has been just fine that way. I will even give you my transmission mechanics business phone number & you can ask him yourself !
  • researchwhizresearchwhiz Member Posts: 2
    Thank you for your advice. By the way, the IDE-ribbon I've been trying to locate connection and purpose for is actually a diagnostic tool connector. I had no idea there was another beside the one fastened under the dash.
  • fincenmibfincenmib Member Posts: 4
    Ah the down side to owning a Geo! My mechanic sent me out in search of this part and junk yards seem to work best for the smaller components. Does any one have advise on who might have this part? RockAuto.com had these for most of the Geo Trackers, but none for the Metro. Someone else has surely faced this similiar shortage of parts.

    I am 70 miles from Los Angeles, so I would think if there was a supply, they might have a source close by.

  • mrcadomrcado Member Posts: 2
    I got a '91 Storm I traded for a '77 F-150. It's got the 1.8 and 5 speed. When I get on it (alone) I can get around 38 mpg and when I take it easy, I have gotten over 42. I know there are other things I can do to improve it a little, but I'm happy with what I get since it's hard to get parts for it...
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