Jkhap, my dad has owned many Fords, and remembers replacing the trannies on all of them. I'm not sure of the mileage each had, but don't think they lasted as long as he'd like. Included are '72 Torino, '76 Thunderbird, '78 and '79 Lincolns. Also, in the vans conference, several Windstar owners are complaining of rebuilding the tranny from 40-60k miles.
Dwkidd, if I recall, one of the Chrysler van owners said he was told to change the tranny fluid at 15k or so, because the 25k interval Chrysler recommends is not good enough. The oil turns acidic apparently.
I pretty much do not know that much about cars but like the way the Jetta drove and bought one last month. I was very happy with it and i am enjoying it very much. But I am sure with many other cars one does notice some of the quirks associated with the cars until an extended test drive. I am hoping that someone here can help me.
I have put on 1200 miles in one month, yeah that sounds like a lot. I have notice that when starting from park and shifting into drive, there is a 2 or 3 sec pause then it kinda jerks into gear. It is getting a little smoother over time, but that seems abnormal to me for a new car.
Second, I notice that the rpm gauge is reading high for 65-70 miles per hour. It hoovers around 2800 to 3000. I am use to a four-banger. So when is the overdrive going to kick in or is that normal?
Lastly, At idle and slow speeds I am hearing this muffled tapping, like a da-t-da-t-da... sound, is this normal, I only noticed when I dropped my girlfriend off the other night, and heard the sound. Anyone with similar experiences or know what this is. Should I take the car in for service? Please Help.
Also last question, maybe a little off topic, does anyone change their engine oil at 1000 miles anymore, after the break-in period or should I go with the 5000 mile suggested by my manual where I used to do it at 3000 miles. Kinda of confusing in the beginning.
I have a 94 TBird in need of torque converter repair. I am experiencing shudder at higher gear shifts. Letting off the gas allows for a successful shift. Is this repair so involved that it requires a dealer to handle it or can I rely on any certified mechanic or transmission repair shop? The car has 70,000 miles on it and has had a complete 60,000 mile tune up. I appreciate all help and advice.
Alex, if the tranny is getting smoother, give it some time. It may need to break in.
Every engine has a different rpm range. Do a search for "Jetta" in the search box, find a busy topic, and ask the owners in that topic about this. Tapping could be anything, normal or abnormal. Mention it to the dealer and see what they say.
I recommend leaving your oil in. Some German cars have very hard rings and cylinders, and the original oil may break the engine in quicker. Do what the manual says.
Brodix, all a dealer will do is charge you more for the repair. Go to someone with a good reputation, who you can trust, dealer or not.
At 160K, I had some slipping between 2 and 3rd gear. The orginal tranny rebuilt and a new torque converter installed. Seems to run fine except for an annoying hard shift from 1 to 2 gear, most noticable at initial startup, but also can occur after the engine has been hot. 2 to 3 gear shifts smooth. Hard shifting occurs regardless of weither I am in overdrive or not. Fluid color and quantity is good. With about 6K on the tranny, I took it to the shop where the tranny was rebuilt and it didn't appear to occur during the test drive. Today I noticed it again and its driving me nuts. The engine runs as smooth as ever. Any suggestions????
Cheapowner, I also have doubts that the new Honda's really need the Honda brand ATF. Until about three years ago, Dexron III was specified by Honda.
However, four quarts of ATF from the Honda dealer will cost about $7 more than a good Dexron III at the discount store. This cost difference is small with consideration for change intervals of 15,000 miles or more. For peace of mind, I would use the Honda brand. But, like you, I would still like to have the "inside story."
my sons 96 sunfire gt goes to about 30mph and doesn't shift the motor revs and of course the warrenty is out and the dealer says tha something is binding in the transmission has anyone else had a similar problem. its the 4cylinder automatic model
I just got a service bill for over $2000 on a 1996 town and country mini-van. It's transmission failed. The van only had 65,000 miles on it and cost me $28,000 in 1996. What a joke of a product! Is there anybody going after Chrysler to sue them for the junk they sell? I want in!!!
Honda does not manufacture lubricants just like other automakers. There is bound to be an equivalent replacement on the market somewhere. Current Honda manual trans require Genuine Honda Manual fluid but 30W motor oil can be temp replacement (lack of friction modifier). I found Redline MTL to be a perfect replacement. My Civic no longer grinds from N to R and shifting quality does not change in 100F+ weather. I replaced the fluid at 1000 miles.
I wrote in #203 about my Voyager needing a third transmission at 80,000 miles. I called the Customer Service number armed with information about the numerous complaints/problems with their transmissions (mosty based on what I read on this internet site). They agreed to pick up all but $200 for the new trans. I don't have the car back yet, but don't hesitate to call and complain.
The next problem you will have on the Voyager (judging from the mileage) will be the A/C system. Expect to spend about $1500 on a new compressor and dryer. Note that this is about the same cost as another transmission. If you buy a 97 or newer Windstar , expect the transmission to last at least 150,000 miles (given proper servicing at 25-30k intervals). The Windstar is also twice as safe when hit from ANY direction - INCLUDING OVERHEAD !!
This week, my wife took her baby in for transmission maintenance pursuant to her husband's request. When the mechanic lowered the pan he found some shavings. According to my wife, the shavings put together amount to about the size of a quarter. The mechanic was of the opinion that the tranny is a goner. However, the tranny (a 3-speed auto) has been shifting as smoothly as ever and has not slipped at all. The engine is a 301 V-8. There are almost exactly 90,000 miles on the car, which she bought new. I would appreciate any thoughts on what all of this means. No big deal if the car is dead (we have two '98s) but she loves the car and we'd like to keep it around a while longer as our beater. Also, any idea of what a rebuilt tranny would cost for this kind of car?
HAD A 1987 DODGE CARAVAN REPLACED THE TRANSMISSION LIKE CLOCK WORK AT 50,000 MILES TOOK ME THREE TRANNYS BEFORE I GOT RID OF IT. OTHER THAT THAT I WOULD HAVE BOUGHT ANOTHER
I HAVE A 1996 SUZUKI SIDEKICK 4 SPEED TRANS. THE CAR IS A LOT OF FUN EXCEPT THAT THIS HAS TO BE THE HARDEST TRANSMISSION TO SHIFT THAT I EVER HAD. ITS LIKE SOMEONE EXPLAINED TO ME PUTTING A STICK IN A BUCKET OF ROCKS AND SHIFTING IT. IF ANYONE HAS A SOLUTION PLEASE LET ME KNOW. I TOOK IT BACK TO THE DEALER ONCE THEY SAID IT WAS BECAUSE OF A BENT CLUTCH PEDAL ??? THEY REPLACED THE PEDAL GUESS WHAT STILL SHIFTS LIKE IT GOT ROCKS IN THE TRANNY.
Thanks for the thoughts. This was not a trans shop, but my wife's mechanics that she's had for 25 years. They didn't recommend we do anything, they just said be careful of the trans. (Everyone is understandably skeptical of mechanics and their ilk.) One of the objects was a thruster washer. Basically, the advice was not to take any long trips with the car.
As you've seen from the postings, problems with the trans on these vehicles is not uncommon. Our company owned one and a call to chrysler got them to pay for most of the trans. I would certainly call and complain - apparently they care enough to do something. Now, if I can just get Ford to give a rip about their product, I might get somewhere myself with my trans. problem.
haser, I'm glad you've joined us. You may find that your posts will be easier to read if you use lower case as well. On the net, some might interpret your ALL CAPS as SHOUTING.
I am thinking about buying a Chevy Blazer.I've test driven two 96's with auto transmissions and 4x4.When I've stopped on a hill,neither one of them would hold itself-started rolling backwards.Is this normal?
When I was kid, my dad told me If the car rolls back on the hill there must be something wrong with that car.It is an indication of weak transmission. But in these days most of the late model vehicles are doing the same thing. I coul not figure it out that why it was different before and why they are rolling back now.
I remember one post from a long time ago that said something about synthetic transmission fluid. As the colder months have approached (Ohio) I have noticed that it is a lot more difficult to shift in the morning until the car warms up. If I remember correctly, someone mentioned that a synthetic transmission fluid makes it easier to shift in cold weather. If this is correct what brand would be a good (best) one to go with. Also I doubt it would, but could this possibly void my warranty? Oh, I have a manual Toyota Solara SEV6. Thanks, Mike
I have a 97 Nissan Maxima SE. I just found out the transmission needs replaced. It has 48k miles. I was driving along and the "Service Engine Soon" light came on and i took it to the dealer. I am happy that this will be covered under warranty. So, has anybody had this problem yet????
I have a 97 Nissan Maxima SE. I just found out the transmission needs replaced. It has 48k miles. I was driving along and the "Service Engine Soon" light came on and i took it to the dealer. I am happy that this will be covered under warranty. So, has anybody had this problem yet????
Just replaced tranny fluid and filters in a E4OD and 4L60E with Synthetic Blended Mercon V. Now I can't feel TC lock up on 4th but can hear engine RPM drops in E4OD. No difference in 4L60E.
I've read most of the posts- here's my story: 1990 Dodge Spirit ES, A604 Ultradrive (ultra-junk) tranny. I have had 3 rebuilds in under 85,000 miles. I'm getting ready to sue Chrysler in small claims court to get my $2100 back. I read a post on some other message board about a possible class action suit about this. Anyone know about this? I would also like any tips on how to handle this in court. Believe me- I have hundreds of pages of documents to back up my case.
Our JGC has 106000 on it....the tranny supposedly needed to be replaced. I took it to aamco and they replaced it with "all NEW parts"..which I am starting to doubt. The day after I picked it up, it died...they claimed it needed a valve adjustment. a week later I was driving and it started running rough....put it into R and it died. Put it into D and it went...then R and it died. Had it towed to aamco AGAIN and they said "Gosh, all the parts are new and when we took it apart, we found pieces of the clutch in something or another..." So 2 days later it is still there and when I called today and asked what was wwrong with it they said "Ma'mm I don't know, I am not a mechanic but I will find out." needless to say we still have not heard from them and we are extrememly PISSED....any recourse? Also, what the heck would cause the tranny to die again?? HELP!!
Got the jeep back from AAMCO and it is STILl screwed up. Anyone know if I have any recourse? I mean they SYA they will fix it since it is under warranty, but every time I get it back, it dies on the way home. plus, in my eyes, 3 times dead in 3 weeks is some kind of record for shoddy service! HELP!!!
I have a 98 eclipse spyder with the adaptive automatic transmission. I have found every time I stomp on the accelerator after being in forth gear for a while the tranmission will hesitate, clunk and roughly shift into 3rd. Anytime after that it shifts crisply, without a problem. I have tried to repeat but can't.
If I wait 15 minutes, and drive in 4th for a while, then stomp on the accelerator the same thing happens again. Is this due to the adaptive feature, is this normal?
I have a 1994 Suzuki Sidekick JS (4spd man. trans/2WD). I changed the differential and manual trans gear oil at 15K and found the same "Stick in a Bucket O' Rocks" shifting, especially in cold weather. Had not noticed difficult shifting before the change. At the time, my dealer was both a Suzuki and a GM dealer. Service writer said that the Sidekick Trans was very sensitive about the gear oil used and that they used an oil additive that GM marketed for the limited slip rear end of the Vette and equivalents. Not cheap stuff at over $12/pint, but VERY effective. That was 40K miles ago, just changed again, had dealer put in a pint of same stuff, and it is as slick as the day I bought her. (Rear end can use just plain GL5 hypoid gear oil in the correct wt noted in manual)
So, if you noticed this difficult shifting following a trans oil change, I'd give this a try. I really love my Sidekick and hope to run it for a long time. (BTW, it tows my 2000# 17' Venture sailboat like a kid's Radio Flyer wagon.)
You said you changed your tranny fluid and it made the shifting smoother in cold weather. I have noticed that my manual transmission is getting harder to shift as the weather gets colder (Ohio). Money really doesn't matter to me as long as the product works. What brand and type did you use and was it a synthethic? BTW- I have a 99 Toyota Solara. THANKS, Mike
Sorry for confusion- Vehicle shifted well when new in all weather, (though I live in Louisiana, so cold is 33 degF). In any event, I had the hard shift problem (especially in colder temps) occur AFTER I changed my trans gear oil w/ a std GL3 as recommended in the manual. I then spoke to dealer's svc writer, who recommended the addition of this gear oil (it is either a pint or 20 oz, I can't recall). So they drained out about a pint or so and added the gear oil. That solved the problem (this was in winter 1995). So, this year, when changing again, I just had them do it from the start.
I don't know the GM part number, but it is under a GM label, marketed specifically for the hi perf sports cars w/ limited slip rear end, and is intended for the rear end. The Chevy or Pontiac dealer's parts people should be able to identify from this.
If that is not possible, e-mail me at msibille@yahoo.com and I'll contact my dealer to get the GM part number, then e-mail same back to you.
I just got a 2000 Accord LX w/ automatic transmission. I noticed that whenever I reached speeds of 60-70 mph, there's a whistling/whining sound. After 70 mph, the sound lessens.
I had it checked at the dealer and they said that it's in the transmission. The sound is excessive than normal. They will try to remedy the problem the next time I bring in the car, otherwise they would be replacing the transmission.
New car; 2200 miles; occasional shudder at low RPM upon deceleration...check out this web page autotrans.com/shudfix.htm ...they build a circuit board torque converter add-on that reduces or eliminates shudder. Now if only I can convince my Ford service advisor to install this and maintain Ford warranty on car, tranny, etc. I'll be OK. Also, use the O/D OFF for all but freeway speeds and you'll see some reduction in the shudder.
Howdy All, Am I the ONLY person in the world who has had three transmission problems with their 98 Concord LXI? I only have 18k miles and have to have the Cord hauled to the dealership on three occasions!!! Please, Let me know if anyone else is having this kind of problem...
Is there a performance problem, or is the noise just a nuisance? If it's a nuisance, rather than a performance or safety item, live with it for now and stop worrying about what a replacement costs.
we have a 1995 4x4 blazer and it is 7000 km over warranty and now we just put out $1500.00 in transmission work. I am looking for anyone who might know of a problem with Blazer transmission or if there was ever a recall done or questioned.
I have a 1 1/2 yr old Chevy 1500 Z71 Ext cab with 20,000 miles on it. My Service Engine Soon light has now come on for the 3rd time. The previous 2 involved pressure control in the transmission, most recently, the pressure control selinoid. The truck shifts very hard between 1st and 2nd and 2nd and 3rd. Is anyone familiar with this problem???? I love my truck but have become very concerned about this recurring problem and wonder if this has caused more wear on my transmission!? Please help!
I am in the minivan market and have decided to stay away from the Chyrsler and Ford minvans because of their high transmission failure rate. What's the story on the GM Venture / Montana drive train ?
i bought a new 1989 k2500 4x4 5.7l v8, back in 89. that darn service engine soon light, would come on like it was the sun coming up in the morning. if you would let it idle, for more than 5 minutes, it was on. i had it back and forth to the gm dealership so many times i ran out of times i counted. the abs brake computer went out lots of times too. i unplugged the abs computer after the third computer at almost 400 bucks a pop. brakes worked fine. no abs, but so what, it hardly ever worked anyway. the serv. engine soon light was a pain. i would usually just disconnect the negative battery cable while the truck was running and let the engine computer clear itself. the quick fixes i did after the warranty was up,and after one replacement of one of these defective components. dont do this stuff, i dont know if it will work on a newer gm truck. i am a professor, and so i try experements to find ways around stupid electronical problems. best of luck.
Comments
Also, in the vans conference, several Windstar owners are complaining of rebuilding the tranny from 40-60k miles.
Dwkidd, if I recall, one of the Chrysler van owners said he was told to change the tranny fluid at 15k or so, because the 25k interval Chrysler recommends is not good enough. The oil turns acidic apparently.
guitarzan
Community Leader/Vans Conference
I have put on 1200 miles in one month, yeah that sounds like a lot. I have notice that when starting from park and shifting into drive, there is a 2 or 3 sec pause then it kinda jerks into gear. It is getting a little smoother over time, but that seems abnormal to me for a new car.
Second, I notice that the rpm gauge is reading high for 65-70 miles per hour. It hoovers around 2800 to 3000. I am use to a four-banger. So when is the overdrive going to kick in or is that normal?
Lastly, At idle and slow speeds I am hearing this muffled tapping, like a da-t-da-t-da... sound, is this normal, I only noticed when I dropped my girlfriend off the other night, and heard the sound. Anyone with similar experiences or know what this is. Should I take the car in for service? Please Help.
Also last question, maybe a little off topic, does anyone change their engine oil at 1000 miles anymore, after the break-in period or should I go with the 5000 mile suggested by my manual where I used to do it at 3000 miles. Kinda of confusing in the beginning.
Thanks for all of your help in advance.
Alex
Every engine has a different rpm range. Do a search for "Jetta" in the search box, find a busy topic, and ask the owners in that topic about this.
Tapping could be anything, normal or abnormal. Mention it to the dealer and see what they say.
I recommend leaving your oil in. Some German cars have very hard rings and cylinders, and the original oil may break the engine in quicker. Do what the manual says.
Brodix, all a dealer will do is charge you more for the repair. Go to someone with a good reputation, who you can trust, dealer or not.
guitarzan
Community Leader/Vans Conference
However, four quarts of ATF from the Honda dealer will cost about $7 more than a good Dexron III at the discount store. This cost difference is small with consideration for change intervals of 15,000 miles or more. For peace of mind, I would use the Honda brand. But, like you, I would still like to have the "inside story."
town and country mini-van. It's transmission failed. The van only had 65,000 miles on it and cost me $28,000 in 1996. What a joke of a product! Is there anybody going after Chrysler to sue them for the junk they sell? I want in!!!
guitarzan
Community Leader/Vans Conference
Expect to spend about $1500 on a new compressor and dryer. Note that this is about the same cost as another transmission. If you buy a 97 or newer Windstar , expect the transmission to last at least 150,000 miles (given proper servicing at 25-30k intervals).
The Windstar is also twice as safe when hit from ANY direction - INCLUDING OVERHEAD !!
Dave
Well...some shavings are the result of normal wear and nothing more.
I wouldn't worry unless it starts acting up!
carlady/roving host
I coul not figure it out that why it was different before and why they are rolling back now.
Thanks, Mike
Just normal operation!
HELP!!
If I wait 15 minutes, and drive in 4th for a while, then stomp on the accelerator the same thing happens again. Is this due to the adaptive feature, is this normal?
I have a 1994 Suzuki Sidekick JS (4spd man. trans/2WD). I changed the differential and manual trans gear oil at 15K and found the same "Stick in a Bucket O' Rocks" shifting, especially in cold weather. Had not noticed difficult shifting before the change. At the time, my dealer was both a Suzuki and a GM dealer. Service writer said that the Sidekick Trans was very sensitive about the gear oil used and that they used an oil additive that GM marketed for the limited slip rear end of the Vette and equivalents. Not cheap stuff at over $12/pint, but VERY effective. That was 40K miles ago, just changed again, had dealer put in a pint of same stuff, and it is as slick as the day I bought her. (Rear end can use just plain GL5 hypoid gear oil in the correct wt noted in manual)
So, if you noticed this difficult shifting following a trans oil change, I'd give this a try.
I really love my Sidekick and hope to run it for a long time. (BTW, it tows my 2000# 17' Venture sailboat like a kid's Radio Flyer wagon.)
THANKS, Mike
Vehicle shifted well when new in all weather, (though I live in Louisiana, so cold is 33 degF).
In any event, I had the hard shift problem (especially in colder temps) occur AFTER I changed my trans gear oil w/ a std GL3 as recommended in the manual. I then spoke to dealer's svc writer, who recommended the addition of this gear oil (it is either a pint or 20 oz, I can't recall). So they drained out about a pint or so and added the gear oil. That solved the problem (this was in winter 1995). So, this year, when changing again, I just had them do it from the start.
I don't know the GM part number, but it is under a GM label, marketed specifically for the hi perf sports cars w/ limited slip rear end, and is intended for the rear end. The Chevy or Pontiac dealer's parts people should be able to identify from this.
If that is not possible, e-mail me at msibille@yahoo.com and I'll contact my dealer to get the GM part number, then e-mail same back to you.
Happy trails
I had it checked at the dealer and they said that it's in the transmission. The sound is excessive than normal. They will try to remedy the problem the next time I bring in the car, otherwise they would be replacing the transmission.
Please, I need feedback on this...
I noticed a whistling sound at 65 mph, and I would like to know if it's recommended to have the original replaced.
Feedbacks Please!
I am just worried that the noise might be a symptom to a bigger problem in the future.
warranty and now we just put out $1500.00 in transmission work. I am looking for anyone who might know of a problem with Blazer transmission or if there was ever a recall done or questioned.
http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/
Please help!
Thanks- -