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Comments
I've found over the years I've not done very well on Goodyear OEM stock tires.
Seems when they get a number of miles on them they begin to make "whup whup" sounds. I had 2 Dodges (Dakota and Durango) that came with Wranglers as the OEM tires. When the miles piled on, but long before the tread wore out, we got vibrations that were very annoying. I consulted the Tirerack surveys and saw the Goodyears ranked as crap and went for the very high ranking Michelins . Both vehicles have had the Michelins and SEARS by Michelin equivalent tires when it came time for replacement since(in both variations of tread aggression) and we really got what we paid for with mileage, snow traction and quietness. You say the sidewall has been punctured. I think I'd chalk it up as an opportunity to negotiate with Goodyear for credit for better ranked tires (as shown on TireRack surveys).
The Tripletread having a good rating for example for a Goodyear tire) or go to another brand. (The Goodyear LS has a pretty poor ranking when you consult the TireRack survey). I don't know if the belts shift or what the technical reason is, but I'd be thinking of moving forward to something better (As you drive on quieter, but better traction rubber you will wonder why you waited so long to move on to a better tire)
I looked @ the rim,etc and all seem to be seated properly. Big day is Friday for them to fix the problem. Maybe I will have THEM send me to a different tire store and see if they can find the problem. I don't see how it could be a coincidence that the sound started immediately after I drove off the service area. I don't know how a tire could have a belt go at that instant when everything was fine before I took it in.
Could have happened but very strange..but then....I had my Spyder GT in for an oil change and they couldn't start the car...told me the battery went dead!!hmmmmm again,eh? PS I got stuck w/a $150 Mitsubishi battery as the had me by the you know what's..
PS I will not buy Goodyears for replacement as I hear nothing "GOOD" about "GOOD"YEARS. :confuse:
Pain in the buttocks. All I know from reading all the tire info is that the next set will not be Goodyear LS's.
PS I also had a problem w/the "clock" spring in the steering wheel going "click,click,click, while turning the sterring wheel. Had it replaced and it still did it. They took it apart and checked it today and found that it "unraveled" jsut like the original one. It is now corrected. I posted this is another message earlier and someone else had the same problem but I couldn't remember who it was.The mechanic made a boo-boo @ the 1st repair job.
Thanks for the updates.
The "force balancing" now does seem to have helped a bit.Yesterday I din't notice improvement but today it seems better.
I checked w/Tire Rack and settled on Goodyear Assurance ComforTred. My price including shipping and then going to Goodyear locally re:mount,balance,etc was $720. At the Goodyear store it was $1001 for exactly the same thing. I asked the manager why such a big difference and he told me that if there was a tire claim of a problem w/a tire that had to be looked at I would have to take it off and send it to Tire Rack and then pay to sip it back again and then pay to have it remounted,balanced,etc.
Do you know if this is standard proceedure or was it that I told the Gooyear guy that I couldn't see where Tire Rack(TR) had a Road Hazard(RH warantee..I look closer at my TR printouts and discovered that they do have the RH warantee.
It would be a real pain to be w/o tires if there was a problem. It seems to me that if TR has a RH warantee that it should be honored by Goodyear. Still confused :confuse:
If there's a warranty issue, the local guy would go to bat for you with the manufacturer I guess.
But for a $300 difference, you could buy a new tire and still come out about the same.
I suspect that Tire Rack could ship to your Tires Plus store too, and they may be cheaper on mounting and balancing.
Heading to the NC mtns for 2 weeks starting this Friday. I hope whatever tire(s) are going bad will last til I get back.
Over and out for now. tom
(This is in the "Highway all season" category).
The verdict was that something happened with the tires during its life (20K miles) and perhaps overloaded by luggage weight for such a long journey. I bought 4 new tires (Yokohama) and the problem was solved and then I sold this SUV last year.
I think I will change out my Goodyears and go with the Yokohama YK520 97HB.....They are rated very high by customers on Discount Tire Direct....I may even go with a higher profile tire than 55 that are the OEM's....Maybe a 235/60/18 because I use alot of mountain backroads to access hiking trailheads that have alot of big rocks strewn around. I could use that little extra clearance...
Yokohama YK 520 ($113 each) or the latest Yokohama AVID TRZ ($108 each: tirerack) are all seasons tires with speed index H. Toyo has the Versado LX ($166: 1010tires) with speed index T. The Michelin Primacy MXV4 ($173: tirerack) has speed index H. The entire H index has been designed for high speed vehicles with the occasional encounter with light snow, ice, mud or water. My personal opinion is that I will choose to buy a set of 4-tires Toyo Versado LX with speed index T. I think the groove pattern of this tire is more appropriate for light off road for my Outlander XLS V6.
1010tires web page gives a tire size calculator to elucidate the appropriateness of changing OEM sizes.
I think tthe Yoko yk520 or the AVID will suit me fine since I rarly encounter snow. Both tires come in sizes 225/60/18 and 235/65/18 and should work well for me on forest roads...They have excellent customer satisfaction and they are fairly inexpensive...Now, I will have to investigate to see if the TPMS will work with the higher profile tire...
With regard to the TPMS I thought that changing the size of the tires will trigger the TPMS sensors. However when I talked with the technician in a Mitsubishi garage, he told me that the sensors only measures the inside pressure of the tires and that is the reason why the tire valves look bulky. He told me that these valves can be used several times before buying new ones (which are expensive). In all my previous vehicles every time I changed the tires the valves were also changed. Not anymore with the Outlander. He also recommended me to look for a reputable tire garage that has experience with these Mitsubishi valves. If going to any other garage without experience I must be sure to explain about the sensors and ask them to be extra careful. In summary I will say that making a reasonable change of tire size will not trigger the TPMS sensors. However, I will not be certain with this experience until I have done it and observed the change of new tires in my Outlander when the time arrives.
According to specifications the OEM Goodyear had 9 mm of tread deepness (when new), the tires now have 6 mm of tread deepness (6,000 miles) which mean that at 12,000 miles the vehicle will be ready for a change of tires.
try to find it from Belle Tire or US auto parts
Took it from so. FLA to Ashville and on up to the NC/VA state lines and did a lot of the Blueridge PKWY and the tires are holding up. I will wait until a little more tread is gone to replace them.. Still THUMP,THUMP,etc but not above approx. 30mph.
PS what price did you get for the Primacy's? if you don't mind me asking....
The tires are $200.99 a piece at Costco. (225/55-18) (Price increase on July 30 from $187)
Costco has a promo on the H series tires at $60 off a set of 4.
I've checked @ several tire dealers & Sears & a few others will only sell me the Goodyear LS2's that came on the car as they will not guarantee anything else as that's the only tire that is listed by the mfr for the XLS.
Any body out there know what's up w/this? They are telling me that an SUV rides higher :confuse: and therefore needs a stiffer sidewall than what comes on all the tires that are the same size as the OEM tires.Therefore, they will sell me other tires but will not guarantee them.
The second problem is when internal parts of the tires (layers) perish or lose their firmness due to harsh drive or poor tire manufacture. This problem may occur after 10,000 miles in some makes. The solution here is to replace the tires for new ones and put wheel weights of ½ ounces or 1 ounces or a combination of them to reduce foreign material from interfering with the smooth patter of the air wind.