Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Why NOT to buy a 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander XLS

13»

Comments

  • comem47comem47 Member Posts: 399
    Tires is one thing when it comes to quality "your mileage may vary" tremendously.

    I've found over the years I've not done very well on Goodyear OEM stock tires.
    Seems when they get a number of miles on them they begin to make "whup whup" sounds. I had 2 Dodges (Dakota and Durango) that came with Wranglers as the OEM tires. When the miles piled on, but long before the tread wore out, we got vibrations that were very annoying. I consulted the Tirerack surveys and saw the Goodyears ranked as crap and went for the very high ranking Michelins . Both vehicles have had the Michelins and SEARS by Michelin equivalent tires when it came time for replacement since(in both variations of tread aggression) and we really got what we paid for with mileage, snow traction and quietness. You say the sidewall has been punctured. I think I'd chalk it up as an opportunity to negotiate with Goodyear for credit for better ranked tires (as shown on TireRack surveys).
    The Tripletread having a good rating for example for a Goodyear tire) or go to another brand. (The Goodyear LS has a pretty poor ranking when you consult the TireRack survey). I don't know if the belts shift or what the technical reason is, but I'd be thinking of moving forward to something better (As you drive on quieter, but better traction rubber you will wonder why you waited so long to move on to a better tire)
  • olliexls2007olliexls2007 Member Posts: 28
    A few days after the nitro "injection" I took "Ollie" to a Tires Plus store and they took all the wheels off and balanced and rotated the tires for me as I'm a regular customer there I trust them a lot. Wheels/tires were checked for balance and out of round,etc,etc. They found nothing that would cause the THUMP.

    I looked @ the rim,etc and all seem to be seated properly. Big day is Friday for them to fix the problem. Maybe I will have THEM send me to a different tire store and see if they can find the problem. I don't see how it could be a coincidence that the sound started immediately after I drove off the service area. I don't know how a tire could have a belt go at that instant when everything was fine before I took it in.
    Could have happened but very strange..but then....I had my Spyder GT in for an oil change and they couldn't start the car...told me the battery went dead!!hmmmmm again,eh? PS I got stuck w/a $150 Mitsubishi battery as the had me by the you know what's..
  • olliexls2007olliexls2007 Member Posts: 28
    re:THUMP......took "Ollie" to dealer & was told the tires are "cupped" and that is causing the THUMP! They are NOT cupped. Have app't. w/Goodyear store tomorrow AM. Tires were "force balanced" @ dealer. They took off the "worse" one and looked for belt separation and didn't find anything wrong. I will have Goodyear take all off and look for defects..
    PS I will not buy Goodyears for replacement as I hear nothing "GOOD" about "GOOD"YEARS. :confuse:
  • olliexls2007olliexls2007 Member Posts: 28
    STEVE, I went to the Mit. dealer today. Had the tires "force balanced".Did no good @ all. Will go to Goodyear tomorrow and try to get them to remove all tires and check for belt separation,etc.

    Pain in the buttocks. All I know from reading all the tire info is that the next set will not be Goodyear LS's.

    PS I also had a problem w/the "clock" spring in the steering wheel going "click,click,click, while turning the sterring wheel. Had it replaced and it still did it. They took it apart and checked it today and found that it "unraveled" jsut like the original one. It is now corrected. I posted this is another message earlier and someone else had the same problem but I couldn't remember who it was.The mechanic made a boo-boo @ the 1st repair job.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    After all that hassle, I think I'd just go back to your tire store friends and have a new set of tires put on. Original equipment tires for most makes have a pretty lousy reputation, and I didn't get much over 20,000 miles on the last set of OEM tires I had.

    Thanks for the updates.
  • olliexls2007olliexls2007 Member Posts: 28
    Goodyear store told me to just get new tires as I have 3 plugs in these and if the car dealer and Tires Plus couldn't find a belt separation he probably couldn't either.
    The "force balancing" now does seem to have helped a bit.Yesterday I din't notice improvement but today it seems better.
    I checked w/Tire Rack and settled on Goodyear Assurance ComforTred. My price including shipping and then going to Goodyear locally re:mount,balance,etc was $720. At the Goodyear store it was $1001 for exactly the same thing. I asked the manager why such a big difference and he told me that if there was a tire claim of a problem w/a tire that had to be looked at I would have to take it off and send it to Tire Rack and then pay to sip it back again and then pay to have it remounted,balanced,etc.
    Do you know if this is standard proceedure or was it that I told the Gooyear guy that I couldn't see where Tire Rack(TR) had a Road Hazard(RH warantee..I look closer at my TR printouts and discovered that they do have the RH warantee.
    It would be a real pain to be w/o tires if there was a problem. It seems to me that if TR has a RH warantee that it should be honored by Goodyear. Still confused :confuse:
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I never much cared for road hazard warranty coverage since they always prorate those things and it always seemed more hassle to me than just fixing the tire or buying a new one. Of course, around these parts, Les Schwab will fix flats free. The RH warranty seems to say get the tire fixed anywhere and submit a claim.

    If there's a warranty issue, the local guy would go to bat for you with the manufacturer I guess.

    But for a $300 difference, you could buy a new tire and still come out about the same.

    I suspect that Tire Rack could ship to your Tires Plus store too, and they may be cheaper on mounting and balancing.
  • olliexls2007olliexls2007 Member Posts: 28
    Thanks for all the help. Tires Plus might be a little cheaper...but,I'm sure I would get quicker service from Goodyear if I bought the tires @ a Goodyear store. We will be moving to western NC in 2 years & I haven't seen a Tires Plus store up there yet so I don't need to keep going to them here as I have for the last 20 yrs or so. The top of the line Goodyears will last me @ least 3-4 years (I hope).

    Heading to the NC mtns for 2 weeks starting this Friday. I hope whatever tire(s) are going bad will last til I get back.
    Over and out for now. tom :)
  • 20vcq20vcq Member Posts: 82
    I had some reservations about the Outlander and its directional stability. My old friends at Tires Unlimited in town here mounted a set of 215-70 16 Michelin LTX on the snow tire rims and let me run them for a week. Man what a difference. I will not nor have I for many years by a Good Year tire again. OE Good Year LS are very poor considering the list price but I notice they are "on sale" on Tire Rack for $122.00 - at that price if one drives around town and doesn't want long highway drives they might be a consideration. I am awaiting a back order for Michelin Primacy 18" for my XLS now. (By the way if you have 3 plugs in one tire - getting it to run without a thump is no small challenge) Best of luck
  • comem47comem47 Member Posts: 399
    FYI all: It appears the Outlander XLS got far cheaper quality OEM tires than the Outlander LS. Doing a comparison on TireRack I find the Yokohama Geolander G033 doesn't rate too bad at all for an OEM tire. It appears the AVON Ranger TSE is the deal when replacing tires on Outlander LS (215/70SR16) It's a very close 2nd overall in ratings to the Goodyear Tripletread, but much less costly (only $78/tire vs $132/tire) and the quietest tire in the rankings while not giving up things like winter traction.
    (This is in the "Highway all season" category).
  • batman47batman47 Member Posts: 606
    Yes I have had that 'noise' in an SUV a year ago. Dealer was bemused because there was not apparent cause for this phenomenon. The technician though that the wheel bearing of the rear or front wheel had gone. He even decided after talking with me to change the wheel bearing (driver side). The result of this change didn't remove the "thump-thump" noise. He was utterly embarrassed by the results and after making some calls he decided that the problem could be with the tires so he removed all the wheels from my vehicle and put brand wheels from the same car model in his showroom. He then took the car for a drive and the final result was obvious when I saw the technician coming to me with the news with a big smile. The noise had disappeared. Problem was the tires not the car.

    The verdict was that something happened with the tires during its life (20K miles) and perhaps overloaded by luggage weight for such a long journey. I bought 4 new tires (Yokohama) and the problem was solved and then I sold this SUV last year.
  • solowalkersolowalker Member Posts: 118
    that's good info batman.... On my XLS I have 2 or 3 plugs in one of my Goodyears...I have the thump...I think it is related to the plugs and/or it is a ply separation....
    I think I will change out my Goodyears and go with the Yokohama YK520 97HB.....They are rated very high by customers on Discount Tire Direct....I may even go with a higher profile tire than 55 that are the OEM's....Maybe a 235/60/18 because I use alot of mountain backroads to access hiking trailheads that have alot of big rocks strewn around. I could use that little extra clearance...
  • batman47batman47 Member Posts: 606
    There are few brands that comply with the OEM tire specifications that come with the Outlander XLS V6. The tire size 225/55R18 is not appropriate for SUV with high content of off road driving. Majority of tires in this spectrum are all seasons and they usually have speed index T (118 mph) or H (130 mph). What is certain is that OEM Goodyear tire in the Outlander XLS is poor even in light snow or mud.

    Yokohama YK 520 ($113 each) or the latest Yokohama AVID TRZ ($108 each: tirerack) are all seasons tires with speed index H. Toyo has the Versado LX ($166: 1010tires) with speed index T. The Michelin Primacy MXV4 ($173: tirerack) has speed index H. The entire H index has been designed for high speed vehicles with the occasional encounter with light snow, ice, mud or water. My personal opinion is that I will choose to buy a set of 4-tires Toyo Versado LX with speed index T. I think the groove pattern of this tire is more appropriate for light off road for my Outlander XLS V6.

    1010tires web page gives a tire size calculator to elucidate the appropriateness of changing OEM sizes.
  • solowalkersolowalker Member Posts: 118
    The 2007 Outlander is not included on the drop down list on 1010tires...

    I think tthe Yoko yk520 or the AVID will suit me fine since I rarly encounter snow. Both tires come in sizes 225/60/18 and 235/65/18 and should work well for me on forest roads...They have excellent customer satisfaction and they are fairly inexpensive...Now, I will have to investigate to see if the TPMS will work with the higher profile tire...
  • batman47batman47 Member Posts: 606
    The 225/60R18 is just above (3.18%) of the recommended safety tolerance (3%) when the OEM tires sizes are replaced. 235/65R18 according to the calculations of safety (7.6%) will not be safe to drive the vehicle without endangering your life. I am not an expert in tires but this is the only guide I have and I will abide by it.

    With regard to the TPMS I thought that changing the size of the tires will trigger the TPMS sensors. However when I talked with the technician in a Mitsubishi garage, he told me that the sensors only measures the inside pressure of the tires and that is the reason why the tire valves look bulky. He told me that these valves can be used several times before buying new ones (which are expensive). In all my previous vehicles every time I changed the tires the valves were also changed. Not anymore with the Outlander. He also recommended me to look for a reputable tire garage that has experience with these Mitsubishi valves. If going to any other garage without experience I must be sure to explain about the sensors and ask them to be extra careful. In summary I will say that making a reasonable change of tire size will not trigger the TPMS sensors. However, I will not be certain with this experience until I have done it and observed the change of new tires in my Outlander when the time arrives.

    According to specifications the OEM Goodyear had 9 mm of tread deepness (when new), the tires now have 6 mm of tread deepness (6,000 miles) which mean that at 12,000 miles the vehicle will be ready for a change of tires.
  • mtmsimplemtmsimple Member Posts: 7
    if you are afraid of the TPMS or valve problem, you can find the Orange OE replacement sensor (much cheaper than Original), it can be replaced only for valve (aluminum valve) and keeping the sensor for long time. just for your reference.
    try to find it from Belle Tire or US auto parts
  • olliexls2007olliexls2007 Member Posts: 28
    Dear "20". I don't have 3 plugs in ONE tire. I have one plug in THREE tires. Seems I havent figured out how to get the screw into the remaining "plugless" tire.

    Took it from so. FLA to Ashville and on up to the NC/VA state lines and did a lot of the Blueridge PKWY and the tires are holding up. I will wait until a little more tread is gone to replace them.. Still THUMP,THUMP,etc but not above approx. 30mph.

    PS what price did you get for the Primacy's? if you don't mind me asking....
  • gene_vgene_v Member Posts: 235
    I ordered Primacy's for my XLS 2 weeks ago at Costco. Checked yesterday and they called and found that they (Michelin) won't start making them until mid September. Tire Rack has them on backorder also.
    The tires are $200.99 a piece at Costco. (225/55-18) (Price increase on July 30 from $187)
    Costco has a promo on the H series tires at $60 off a set of 4.
  • gene_vgene_v Member Posts: 235
    I e-mailed Michellin regarding when the Primacy's will be available. They start production September 7 producing 2240 tires. Available at distributers in 3-4 weeks. I gave a copy of the e-mail to my Costco dealer and he said he sometimes gets tires direct from the factory
  • drralphdrralph Member Posts: 1
    I dont know if this helps but in my Acura, the clicking noise that took months to diagnose was an axle shaft. FWD car but worth a look.
  • gene_vgene_v Member Posts: 235
    My local car repair station calls them "Good for a Year".
  • olliexls2007olliexls2007 Member Posts: 28
    This is Olliexls2007 re:thump,thump..(I am the originator of the thump-mail). I still have the Goodyears @ 31,000 miles. 13,000 miles of thumping.

    I've checked @ several tire dealers & Sears & a few others will only sell me the Goodyear LS2's that came on the car as they will not guarantee anything else as that's the only tire that is listed by the mfr for the XLS.

    Any body out there know what's up w/this? They are telling me that an SUV rides higher :confuse: and therefore needs a stiffer sidewall than what comes on all the tires that are the same size as the OEM tires.Therefore, they will sell me other tires but will not guarantee them.
  • batman47batman47 Member Posts: 606
    Tires seem to have 2-noticeable problems. One is the oscillating noise that is attributed to the noise produced by the wind as a result of air friction when air works its way through the wheel. The alternate wind noise is caused by imperfection on the rubber design of the tire itself, e.g. one area (small) is a little bigger than other area so the tire noise is not uniform and the results is the oscillating air noise (up/down). The other probable cause is the number of wheel weight (generally ¼ ounces each) that tires shop attach to your wheel to balance the wheel. When the wheel needs, for example 1.50 ounces, the technician attaches 6- wheel weight of ¼ oz each because they don’t have ½ or 1 ounce wheel weight. These weights disrupt the normal circulation pattern of the air through the internal path of the wheel producing the oscillating air noise. If the tires are brand new then the solution is to increase the volume of the radio or pressurize your tire shop dealer to replace the ¼ ounces weight for ½ or 1 ounces wheel weights.

    The second problem is when internal parts of the tires (layers) perish or lose their firmness due to harsh drive or poor tire manufacture. This problem may occur after 10,000 miles in some makes. The solution here is to replace the tires for new ones and put wheel weights of ½ ounces or 1 ounces or a combination of them to reduce foreign material from interfering with the smooth patter of the air wind.
This discussion has been closed.