Voyager Blower Resistor
Were is the blower motor resistor located on 1998-99 Pylmouth Grand Voyager 3.8L ?
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
1996-99 Plymouth Voyager other years may vary but it should be pretty much the same setup
Symptom: HIGH speed works and OFF works, no in between speeds. It will probably become intermittent before it doesn’t work at all.
Part number for resistor block is Mopar 1-04677180AD.
The front blower resistor block is located above and behind the right front strut tower on the firewall. You’re not going to like this little exercise. It should have been a very easy job but Chrysler has managed to make it difficult.
First remove the 10mm bolt from the clamp holding the low pressure tube to the bracket that is in your way.
Remove the 10mm nut that holds the bracket to the strut tower.
Spin the clamp up out of your way a bit.
The resistor block is connected to the firewall by an internal spring steel type of pressure clip. You need to push a small screwdriver in from the sides of the resistor block to release it from the firewall GOOD LUCK. You may have to pry it off the firewall (AS I DID), in which case you’ll need to reform the ears on the firewall where the clips attach (AS I DID). Buy a new one (about $13.00 at the dealer), then you can see what's necessary to remove it from the firewall.
You will probably find that the springs (resistors) are fine but the spade connections are corroded. One or more of these will probably break when you try to remove the block from the harness connector. Push the bad connector(s) out towards the wire harness. The bad connector on mine was the brown/black. It was also melted a bit around this connector.
Cut the bad spade off of the harness.
Get a new spade that is large enough to fit the new block and handle a piece of 12 or 14 gauge wire. It appears that the harness is 14 gauge. I sliced a 4" piece of new 12 gauge to the existing 14 gauge and then attached the new spade to the other end of the new piece of 12 gauge wire. Do not use smaller gauge wire to do the repair as a fair amount of current passes through this circuit.
Solder the splice connection and cover the splice with two pieces of heat shrink tube.
Solder the spade connection.
Make sure that the new spade will seat all the way into the harness connector. It doesn’t matter that it doesn’t lock into the harness connector.
The new block has a coating of what appears to be dielectric grease. I use a product called Ox-Gard that can be bought in the electrical section of any decent hardware store. This is different from dielectric grease in that it IS conductive. Put some on a spare spade and move it in and out of the harness connections until you think they’re clean. Put a bit on the new block connectors and insert the harness into the new block. Do not slather it on everywhere because as I said it IS conductive.
Insert your new wire and spade into the new block until it’s fully seated.
Install the block into the firewall and reattach bracket.
Test for blower function on all speeds.
This is also documented in Chrysler TSB # 24-06-97
I hope this works for you! I'm going to do it now!??