Chevy Lumina Electrical/Lights
sebastianj
Member Posts: 1
in Chevrolet
Hey-
I recently bought a 1997 Chevy Lumina Sedan and I love it!!! The simple and stupid question of mine is How the heck do I change the headlights. I got the right low beams from Wal-Mart yesterday and I was trying to pull the headlights out (I do have the manual and did it like it said) but it just didn't work. I just can't get them out.
Another question of mine is, when I try to switch the cooling switch to the normal blowers, it doesn't work. The lumina only shoots air out of the floor vents and the one right beneath the windshield. Also I don't think the A/C works.
I don't really know where to start on those problems and I AM THANKFULL FOR ANY HELP!!!!
I recently bought a 1997 Chevy Lumina Sedan and I love it!!! The simple and stupid question of mine is How the heck do I change the headlights. I got the right low beams from Wal-Mart yesterday and I was trying to pull the headlights out (I do have the manual and did it like it said) but it just didn't work. I just can't get them out.
Another question of mine is, when I try to switch the cooling switch to the normal blowers, it doesn't work. The lumina only shoots air out of the floor vents and the one right beneath the windshield. Also I don't think the A/C works.
I don't really know where to start on those problems and I AM THANKFULL FOR ANY HELP!!!!
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Comments
I have a 95 lumina 3.1 with 165000 miles. I think we have the same problem.
My problem started about a year ago. I figured the starter was going out and I had it replaced.
The problem still persisted, though intermittently and infrequently.
Never could reproduce the problem at the shop.
My mechanic noticed oil leaking from the manifold and assumed oil may be seeping in the starter and causing this problem.
Lumina's are notorious for the manifold gasket leak. Anyway, I had the manifold gasket replaced, but still the problem occurs once in a while.
He replaced the starter (again) under warranty, but the problem still does occur intermittently. I still can never reproduce the problem at the shop. It only happens once in a while.
I've been living with it ever since. Would be nice to get this fixed.
Also, I found a work around. Turn ON the ignition switch, pause for a moment, then crank the starter.
It starts up every time without a glitch.
-jasper
Here's part of another article that tells you some things to check to see if it is the "Passkey" system or a broken wire. (Which I was told if it's a broken wire it would not start at all.)
Don't let a common GM Passkey problem keep you from starting the car. On a tilt column, the tiny white wires going to the key pellet contacts eventually break.
Find these wires coming out of the steering column harness at the bottom and disconnect the pigtail. Measure the resistance across the wires going to the ignition switch key contacts with the key in. If the circuit is open, the white wire is likely broken.
Next measure the resistance across the key pellet. Attach a universal gauge tester to the harness pigtail leading to the Theft Deterrent Module. Simulate the same resistance level as was measured at the key pellet. If there are no other faults, the engine will now start and your diagnosis is confirmed.
Michael L. Martin, ASE Master Mechanic
Martin's Garage, Maugansville, MD
Good Luck!
somebody can say me why my car turn off during is running, Could be spark plug trouble?, or I appreciate is somebody give me guide, can be something worst?? Any recommendation??
Unless I push the pedal all the way down.
Any suggestions? Thanks, Larry
I had a similar issue recently with my 95 Lumina, except my car would not crank at all. FYI. The anti-theft system should disable the starter.
Anyway, my problem was the ignition cylinder went bad. I took it to a private mechanic. It was still pricey to fix.
Tom
Crystal
nothing, except the key-in-ignition dinger. And it sounded weak and barely audible.
No headlights, no interior lights, or dash lights. Like someone had cut all power from the battery.
I installed a new battery, and the lights worked fine, the dinger was it's usual annoying self, but when I went to start it... nothing, and then it acted like it had before the new battery. It has no security system for the ignition, just the radio.
Anyone know what I'm up against?
Wayne
Boy do I feel dumb asking this question.
There may be an additional fuse box in the engine compartment.
Open hood. Look to your left/middle. There maybe one on the right side as well.
Hope that helps!
I drove it about 5 miles, shut it off, then went to start it about 5 minutes later.
Nothing. Like someone had removed the battery! I got a jump, drove it about 2 miles and it died.
Found out it was the positive battery terminal/cable.
I don't see how it could be that sporadic, but after the dealership replaced the cable, car has been ok.
Hint: I was SURE I had it tightened when I replaced the battery, but they said it was loose. All I can figure is, I stripped it and the bolt came loose.
My neighbor, a mobile mechanic came to me when I was trouble shooting the problem. My problem also included blowing a fuse and a wire getting very hot. When the problem occured I would start the car with a screwdriver at the starter. The mechanic told me Lumina's have problems with the harness at the transmission. I tugged on it and set it a certain way and the problem went away, I mean gone. I looked at the harness connections this past weekend and this is what I found:
-There is a wire harness that runs to the transmission with two separate connections. One has around four wires in it and the other has two. The one with the 4 wires were exposed and possibly grounding. I respliced them and taped them up.
Hope this helps.
I did not have problems with hesitation or surging. The car ran perfect other than the starting problems which was a hastle. Especially in the rain at night. You could also have your ignition module tested at the local auto parts store. This could also be the problem.
Old1960
I own a Chevy Lumina 1994 4dr sedan. Recently, I've noticed that when I turn the wheel to a certain degree, left or right, the corresponding turn signal will stop blinking until I turn the wheel further or tap the switch to 'jolt' it back into action. The hazard flashers work just fine. Any ideas?
Thanks!
1) Brakes - I read it may be the turn signal switch and when I saw what was involved for replacing well, looking to add LEDs into the trunk lid, at the ends where its red open plastic and no lights. Basically... the brake lights don't work, yet the driving lights and turn signals do. The middle/3rd light works as well so from what I read it's common that it's the turn signal switch since everything else out checks out.
2) Neither backup light works, bulbs look find but sockets look rotted so have to get bulbs and clean them out and see. The one bulb broke trying to remove it.
My question is about the brake light issue... does anyone have any other ideas what it could be? Wiring seems fine otherwise, bulbs work, middle brake light works.... if indeed a signal switch (which again looks brutal to fix) does the wiring to the 3rd brake light have enough power to power a pair of LED cluster lights?
As for the post from Whitelightni...
I just had the whole unit off that houses the backup lights. I've never seen the whole unit end to end light up on any Lumina. The backup bulbs go into an enclosed plastic unit the blocks the light from escaping outside of the 2 white squares. If there is a lumina with the whole trunk lid unit lit, I think it was custom.
I just had the whole unit off that houses the backup lights. I've never seen the whole unit end to end light up on any Lumina around here (Ontario). The backup bulbs go into an enclosed plastic unit the blocks the light from escaping outside of the 2 white squares. If there is a Lumina with the whole trunk lid unit lit, I think it was custom.
I have the whole unit off the car trying to sort out wiring and to get water out... mine got cracked before I bought it. But on the '97 model... it's just a solid white plastic box glued in place. one side lets the light out, the other has a whole to twist the light into.
I hate to put more money into it as I have spent well over $2000 in repairs over the past few years, major repair being having gaskets etc replaced due to oil leakage.
I spent almost $200 for ignition cylinder and key replacement.
As the car started fine with the "hot wiring" does that rule out starter issues? Any ideas where to look next?
The solution is to spend $55 on a new signal switch. It is tough to replace and requires some know how and safety steps including pulling the fuse to the airbag for the steering column. A technician can remove the airbag, steering wheel (requires a wheel puller) and other retaining gear. Once you get to the turn signal switch, check to see if the plates are separated and then commence replacement of the switch. Take care to disconnect the battery (not easily done since the battery is under the washer fluid tank) before you start.
This is really a poor design for the signal switch and Chevy should recall the problem due to it being such a safety issue. Good luck with that though.
This occurred 6 months ago for one day and has been operating fine ever since.
The problem reoccurred yesterday and I have no idea what else to check to rectify the problem.
Please advise
Thank-you
Thank You Very Much,
Andy
About two months ago if I let my car sit for >12 hours, the battery would be dead. Jumped it off a few times and then noticed considerable wear on serpentine belt, uneven, harsh wear. Replaced that. Replaced battery, which was under warranty and even paid to get better one. Car still died. Alternator or starter right-no it's not either of them and the battery is good too. Since the serpentine belt was replaced, the Tensioner started making that loose sound. Was told replace it and the harmonic balancer looked off, so I replaced the tensioner(sound is still there???), and harmonic balancer should be done later today. Today after having AAA come out and jump it yet again this morning I have A NEW CLUE!
When I take key out of ignition, the ward chime(really irritating) still dings, can't make it go off now??????????????????????????
so I disconnected the battery until I take it to mechanic later today.
Anyone have Any Clue?????
any help appreciated!!!!!
To make this story short, I drove up to my Father’s house, a two hours drive; I checked the car and did what a friend of mine suggested. I cranked the engine three times, for 2 seconds each time. This procedure will reset all of the sensors and modules to the car computer. A few minutes later I cranked up the engine and eventually it stated up. I let idle till normal operating temperature. Doing nothing else, I stated moving the wires near and around the engine. There it was. The wires that are close to the engine, these wires run from the computer to near the fire wall, and connects to the ECM.
I cleaned as many wires from oil and grease and used some elect wire tape, replaced most of the elect wire conduit with new ones and placed many wire tie wraps. The computer under the radiator water reservoir tank was missing two hold down bolts. After all was repair, the engine was crank up and stated. Drove the car the next day for about 20 miles, and it is running like new. These cars have many years on them, and most of the elect wires and connections are loose, dirty with oil and grease. A good inspection and test of the wires would give you a hint if there is a bad connection, or bad communication between sensors, modules and computer. I hope this helps .Rafael Ponce
Got a question for y'all. What exactly would cause a 98 Lumina without the key in the ignition or the doors open, for the door open chime to sound and the lights to continuously run.
there are three fuse boxes... two under hood (one each side above the wheel wells), and one on the side of the dash assembly in door jamb area when you open the passenger side door.