Toyota Prius Engine Problems

katiehardkatiehard Member Posts: 1
edited December 2013 in Toyota
My Sister has a 2003 Toyota Prius and when she goes to start the engine will roll over, but it won't start. My brother says it's the fuel pump, or something. Does anyone have any idea what it could be? And if so, how much will it cost, estimated with parts and labor? Thank you sooo much!


  • acjacj Member Posts: 3
    I am posting this on behalf of my Aunt, who actually has the car but it not at all computer literate so I told her I'd try to help....
    She has a 2006 Prius with about 6,000 miles on it and has started getting an intermittent error type message that says (as best as she can remember) "Trans axle will not charge batteries while in neutral" and the car will not start. The dealer is unable to replicate the error and suggests that it is "driver error"?
    Has anyone had this message or problem?
  • texvegastexvegas Member Posts: 17
    While cleaning the inside windshield I apparently hit the shift stick and when I tried to start the car, I got the same message. I turned off the power, got out of the car, got back in and it started as always. I think you get this message if you try to start the car in neutral.
  • john1701ajohn1701a Member Posts: 1,897
    Pressing the POWER button before the brake is fully depressed will cause a lock up where only neutral is available... hence seeing that message.

    Simply waiting until your foot has finished moving will prevent the problem.

    That little bit of patience makes a huge difference, and it is so subtle that most people don't even realize they have jumped the gun... until their awareness is heightened by having done that.

  • acjacj Member Posts: 3
    forgot to mention that she phoned Toyota to talk about this problem and they told her that the car was unsafe to drive until this was fixed? Based on what you guys have said so far it doesn't sound unsafe to me......
  • evanr1evanr1 Member Posts: 2
    Prius has locked up.
    Will not start.
    Dash has all items lights on.
    Will not return keyless entry key.
  • gagricegagrice Member Posts: 31,450
    Welcome to the forum. What year is your Prius? Has this happened before?
  • evanr1evanr1 Member Posts: 2
    Prius is a 2005.
    Owned for 10 months.
    First time this has hapened.
    Main batries are GOOD, the starter batt. is dead.
  • devsiennadevsienna Member Posts: 70
    Evanr1, pardon the questions, but how exactly did the Prius initially lock up? Also, how is that the "starter" battery is known to be dead but the main battery is known to be good? Generally, if the small 12-volt "starter" battery is dead, then you should get no dash lights and no interior lights. The 12-volt battery is used to "bootup" the computers, which in turn connects the high-voltage main battery to the car (it is isolated via relays when the car is off).

    It sounds like you ran the 12-volt battery down by accident, either by leaving a door open or an interior light. You should be able to "jump-start" the car to get it working again. The instructions on how to do so are in the manual. You do not have to crawl back into the back of the car to get at the actual 12-volt battery. There is a 12-volt positive terminal inside the main fuse box of the engine compartment specifically for this purpose. Positive goes to this post, negative goes to any unpainted engine part. The manual should indicate a prefered negative connection point to use for jumpstarting. After you make the connections, you should be able to hit the Start button to reboot the computers and hopefully get things working again.

    I'm curious as to how the keyless key managed to stay stuck in it's slot, and how the dash lights stayed on while the rest of the car appeared to be dead.
  • priusrikpriusrik Member Posts: 2
    I have a Toyota Prius 2005 (which I love) - with 19,000 miles - which has had a "stalling" problem at take off - on three occasions. It happens like this:
    I'm stopped at a light. It turns green and I try to take off - but the Prius won't go faster than about 10 miles an hour - and a Yellow "car shaped" icon lit up (just below the temperature light). The last time I went about 1/2 block at 10 miles/hour - when it suddenly took off and accelerated normally - and the yellow light went off. It handled normally until I got home. We then called the Toyota dealer who said to bring it in. We didn't drive the vehicle until the time we took it in. The dealer service dept didn't find any problems - no "obd II codes" set in. They said that it was probably just the "traction control" kicking in (supposedly that was what the yellow "car" icon meant). They surmised that we had hit a patch of ice. I questioned the service manager for several minutes - telling him that there was no ice - I hadn't heard the brakes pulsing - and it went on for about 1 minute (an awfully long patch of ice). There were no codes retrievable.

    So - any ideas out there? I doubt that it was ice (we do live in Minnesota - but haven't seen that much ice). Was it a software glitch? (I've been a software designer/developer for 35 years and have caused more than my share of bugs). I have read in some of these forums about having to "reboot" - power cycle the vehicle to clear up similar problems. However, - it has cleared up spontaneously for me. Thanks in advance....
  • priusrikpriusrik Member Posts: 2
  • tjc005tjc005 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 92 Paseo with 84,000 miles. Once engine warms up, the car will stall out when car comes to idle speed. It always starts back up. I had car tuned up which helped for a very short time, but it is back to stalling out. It is my first car so I don't have alot of money to pay the mechanics to continue to guess at the problem. Maybe if I can throw some ideas their way it would help. Has anyone ever had these similar issues?
  • acjacj Member Posts: 3
  • h_2b_ah_2b_a Member Posts: 1
    My girlfriend has a similar problem with her 2003 Toyota Prius. We're in Missouri and during winter and especially cold weather (usually when it is below freezing) the electric motor appears to be turning on, but the gas engine will not turn over. She's taken it to a dealer a few times, but they keep telling her that once they reset the computer the problem is fixed. However, once the temperature begins to drop again, the same thing happens.

    I was wondering if anyone is familar with any sensor or starter/battery problems that would prohibit the gas motor from turning over in cold weather.
  • green55green55 Member Posts: 2
    I just purchased a 2007 Prius and have previously used both synthetic oil and Slick 50 to increase gas mileage in American cars. Does anyone have any experience or suggestions as to the use of either of these in future Prius oil changes?
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    Owners report no improvement using Mobil 1 in the Prius. It may be because any improvement is too small to see - ie buried in the "noise" of random fuel economy changes.

    Slick 50 had to change their formulation and reports I've read say it no longer provides much benefit.
  • larsblarsb Member Posts: 8,204
    My subject says it all... :shades:
  • thundrjetthundrjet Member Posts: 5
    I just bought an 05 tbird and I usually use Mobil 1 synth. oil in my vehicles. The owners manual calls for 5w-20. What weight of Mobil 1 should I use as I don't think it comes in 5w-20? Also, what is the best method or product for cleaning and protecting the convertible top. My top is a light blue or grey color.

  • acdiiacdii Member Posts: 753
    Snake oil, that sums up SLick 50. Never use additives in new engines, they are NOT needed. Using Mobil 1 has all the additives you will ever need. Slick willy sells SLick 50. Case in point, had a 79 LTD wagon, I rebuilt the engine myself, and used Castrol GTX 10W30 in it. I put 300,000 miles on that engine, never once using an additive in it, just plain Castrol GTX. The car gave out, then engine did not. I pulled the engine and put it in another car, in the process I had to swap the oil pan, so just for kicks, I popped the bearing caps and plastigauged the journals. They were still in specs, and clean. If you stick with the recommended 5K oil change and use a good filter and good oil, you will NEVER have the need to add anything to the oil, dont waste your money on slick willy 50.
  • acdiiacdii Member Posts: 753
    Mobil 1 0-20 will work. THe low number is the cold value, the large number is the hot value. As long as you have the hot value where it is recommended you will be fine.
  • chetjchetj Member Posts: 324
    i used to use it but it is not API or ILSAC certified...mobil 1 is excellent oil and slick 50 would dilute it...i would use wal mart oil at 1.50 a qt (2.99 for syn, a great deal) over slick 50 anyday...wm oil is also GM 6094M approved, not all oil is...someone made a good point about oil companies spending God knows how many millions of dollars researching their products opposed to slick 50s budget...automakers dont reccomend it
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    "Back in the day" when slick 50 actually added Teflon, it did work wonders. I added it to a Subaru (the old push-rod flat four). Before adding I needed a wrench to turn the engine when adjusting the valves, after I could do it by hand. Slick 50 were forced to change their formula. I heard via the grapevine they were cut off from using Teflon. I tried it once after the change and it did nothing (to another vehicle).

    Just use Mobil 1, which is a good synthetic oil, or if you're really enthusiastic, try Royal Purple. I think it's the "better" type of synthetic. From reading several forums it appears use of synthetic will not result in measurable fuel economy increases in the Prius. Perhaps any improvement is buried in the "noise" of background variations. ;)
  • acdiiacdii Member Posts: 753
    True, no increase for MPG will be seen with Mobil 1 in the Prius, and you really wont see any in any other car for that matter, this isnt the reason to use a synthetic. The true purpose of a syn is much better protection than any dino oil. Over time Dino breaks down in all factors, additive packaged, lubricity, holding suspension etc. Synthetics can last much longer in Lubricity and suspension, two key factors in the use of oil. Lubricity to keep the parts free moving, and suspension to carry the waste particle of combustion to the filter where it is removed. In addition, the additive packages last longer due to the properties of the synthetic blends. The additives help bind to the metal parts, adding to their life span. Zinc is one of them, ZInc is a babbit material on bearings, and having zinc in the oil helps deter from the wear(at least that was how it was explained to me in class, ASE Cert) that occurs. With Dino, the lubricity goes away after time, due to the compressions the molecules go through with each rev of the crank, Synthetics have more resistance to breaking down from compression. What Mobil 1 can do for the prius is extend the oil life from 5000 miles to 10000 miles with just a filter change at 5000 and topping off the oil. Some guys who have diesels have a bypass filtration system installed and change their oil every 15-25K miles with nothing my oil changes every 5K miles and topping off the oil. Big savings when you have 4 gallons of oil to change out, but not realy that much with the prius.
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    Well, actually my 2001 Pathfinder has a 10% increase in fuel economy with Mobil 1. Perhaps it only shows up on larger less fuel efficient engines. The increase in fuel economy pays back the extra cost of the oil three times over in the 6000 km change intervals (stock recommended change intervals). I will not extend the change intervals.

    Don't get me started on the silly "fuel efficient" oils (5W30) the Pathfinder came with new. Warm engine, idling, I hear rumbling (oil film breakdown - crankshaft touches bearings). Never heard it again once I switched to 10W30 (proper viscosity) oil. Sometimes people think too hard.
  • acdiiacdii Member Posts: 753
    There is a reason manufacturers are recommending the lighter weight oils these days. It helps them meet CARB specifications, that basically is the only reason. Engines have tighter tolerences today as well, so lighter oils work better in the newer engines, but is not needed. One thing to be aware of with Synthetics, dont use them in an old engine with 100K on it, or you might find yourself burning oil when you didnt before. Synthetics have tremendous cleaning powers, probably the reason you saw an increase in MPG. WHen you put this in an old engine, the carbon deposits behind the rings will dissolve, loosening the rings and giving them a larger gap, then you start to burn oil. Newer managed engines will less likely have this problem with lots of miles on them, but can still have similiar results, just depends on how well the engine was maintained and how it was driven.
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    I doubt it was carbon on the rings in the case of the Pathfinder. It was the third oil change from new (18,000 km). On the first oil change I went to Penzoil 10W30 (fixed the rumble when hot and idling - in fact I did the first change because of that 500 km early when I first noticed it). Used the same oil on the second. On the third went to Mobil 1 10W30 to see what all the fuss was about synthetic (this was back in 2001 - yeah, I'm slow to adopt "bandwagon" things) ;). Saw the 10% improvement, and it has remained at the improved fuel consumption rate ever since (I stuck to Mobil 1 10W30). I keep detailed records. ;)

    I've also seen (heard) the viscosity breakdown rumble on other vehicles using 5W30 oil (non-synthetic). Only when the engine is hot and idling. Scary stuff hearing the bearings loose material! With the other vehicles it happened a long way from home and I couldn't do anything about it right away except raise the idle. With the Pathfinder it happened in my garage, and I changed the oil right then!
  • acdiiacdii Member Posts: 753
    In your case, no, carbon build up is not an issue, the carbon issue is on older engines, especially pre fuel-injected engines. In your case though I bet it was a number of factors that showed your increased fuel economy, the first being you hit the magic mark where all the parts are working in harmony. The second being the better lubricity of the Mobil 1. Your tires may have also hit their mark where the wear patterns on them give them the least rolling resistance. Some happen right away, others take some time to wear in.
  • 3screwsloose3screwsloose Member Posts: 116
    Mobil 1 0w-20 is what I use in my Ford. They want 5w-20, and this is an official substitute. Have been using Mobil 1 since '86 - no problemo.
    Never fold a wet soft top, don't leave it out in the intense sun ( Texas ), and do not use unapproved cleaners/detergents. Ford has a list of approved products.
  • stevedebistevedebi Member Posts: 4,098
    "So - any ideas out there? I doubt that it was ice (we do live in Minnesota - but haven't seen that much ice). Was it a software glitch?"

    The early 2nd Gen had a software problem that sometimes caused people to be stranded. It was fixed, but maybe your model doesn't have the fix?

    I started a thread a couple of years ago for Prius Software errors; the thread is closed but you can still view it.
  • stevegoldstevegold Member Posts: 185
    I'm stuck in front of my house. All dash lights come on including the big red triangle and the car/lock icon but the ready light is not on and the car won't go.
    If I power off, the P,B,D,R cluster stays on, without the READY light, as does the big screen which displays "CAUTION - Transmission "P" lock mechanism is abnormal. Park in a flat place and apply brake."
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    Sounds like the parking pawl is jammed. It it on a hill? If so, apply some force against the hill (push the car up the hill, apply parking brake) and try again.
  • stevegoldstevegold Member Posts: 185
    I couldn't do anything in the dark last night so I purposely left the lights on to fully discharge the small battery. This morning, I jumped the small battery, using the easy to get at terminal under the front hood. It started right up like normal. (It probably re booted the various micro processors.) I will have Toyota check the error codes later this week.
    If it didn't start this morning, I was going to disconnect the battery (in the back, right side) to force a re boot. I think because I let the battery run out, that wasn't necessary this time.
    This could have been a major problem if my wife was using the car and/or was out of town.
    I will downgrade my Prius from the best car I've ever owned to just OK because of this. (unless Toyota has a good explanation or there was a service bulletin that I did not take care of.
  • chadxchadx Member Posts: 153
    Just a clarifying are talking about two oils of the same operating weight. 30 weight. The fact that one is a 5w and the other a 10w contributes nothing to their breakdown (at least not in the length of time oils are normally used in an engine). All engines can only benefit from using the lowest winter weight available. Meaning the first number in the name. 0w-30, 5w-30, and 10w30 in a good synthetic oil like mobil 1 all perform the same at operating temperature (like a 30 weight). The first number is how it acts when at room temperature. And then, the lower the number the better because it will flow through your engine faster on startup (in both hot and cold weather).

    A 5w-30 (vs. 10w-30) oil will not make an engine have knocks or other oil starvation sounds on startup. Just the opposite. You are more likely to hear that from the heavier oils because your oil pump can't pump the thicker oil as easily to your engine components. Use a good synethetic oil of the lightest weight your vehicles owners manual recommends. That is usually a 0w or 5w. I don't know of any modern engines that recommend a 10w although they can be run in hot weather. It's just not nice for your poor engine to have to try and pump that 10w on a 32 degree day. Do your Pathfinder and change to 5w-30 (or even 0w-30) in your preferred synthetic. Easier on the engine that 10w-30, even in hot weather, but especially in anything less than 50 degrees.

    On a note unrelated to viscosity or weight. another reason synthetic is better because it leaves a film on internal parts, after shut-down, longer than conventional oils, so it is easier on an engine at startup (which is when, arguably, all engine wear occurs).

    Though some drivinge mileage increase may be apparent in certain engines, most of the mileage gains are from the time of first startup and then the miles put on until the engine warms up. This is also why, in many vehicles, the mileage improvements, when using a synthetic vs. conventional oil, are higher or more noticable in the winter time. Of course the biggest mileage killer in the winter time is people idling their cars for 15 minutes before they leave. Park your car in your garage (rather than having it full of junk) and think how much gas the country would save every winter day! hehe.
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    Actually, you are correct in theory, but in practice, with non-synthetic oils, breakdown of the oil film did occur with 5W30 in the Pathfinder and a previous Landcruiser. Once I switched to 10W30 -standard- oil (non-synthetic) film breakdown did not occur. This film breakdown never occurred at startup, only when the engine was hot and idling. A rough rumbling/grinding sound that would start after a few seconds of idling.

    I currently use 5W30 in my Prius and don't see any evidence of breakdown, but I'm using Mobil 1.
  • co2dietco2diet Member Posts: 1
    You can sense my outrage. Traded in my completely reliable 2000 Honda Civic for a more responsible Prius and now it won't start after a measly 6,000 miles.

    All the dash lights go on, including the check engine (I got an oil change etc at the recommended 5,000 miles) and nothing happens. Had it towed and of course did not hear from the dealership all day.

    I'm sorry I didn't buy another Honda. What I want is reliability AND responsibility.
  • stevegoldstevegold Member Posts: 185
    Sorry to hear about your problem. Kindly post what happens here when it's finally fixed. I have had 2 or 3 similar experiences but was able to get them cleared myself without being towed but not without a lot of stress.
  • dean19dean19 Member Posts: 1
    On a recent trip to Mammoth Lakes the car drove well but when I came out next morning, the engine would not run after an initial 15-20 seconds. Trouble lights came on. If I accelerated in the initial start period it would continue to run but lights stayed in alarm. This continued and engine would not operate properly. The next morning I decided to take it to Bishop, the nearest dealer and wait until they opened Monday morning. 15 miles down the hill, it began to operate correctly and has not had another problem. Is it sensitive to the cold or perhaps altitude?
  • mtpressmtpress Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I was at 7,000 feet in about 20 degree weather with my 2002 prius and all the emergency lights went on and the gas engine wouldn't kick in. I had it towed back to Berkeley, at sea level and 60 degrees, and the next morning it started right up. The dealer replaced some electronics because a code had been tripped, but I don't have a lot of confidence to return to the mountains. Any one had a similar problem, or a suggestion. thanks.
  • mm517amm517a Member Posts: 3
    After turning on my 2002 Prius, 4 warning lights came on although the engne was running. I looked in the manual and it said to take to a Toyota dealer. The lights did not go off for a distance of 5-10 miles. I was told that they need to replace the start relay motor. Has anyone else had this problem and does this sound reasonable at a cost of $230 for parts & labor?
  • kimfckimfc Member Posts: 1
    2004 Prius has started making a sreechy noise only when the gas engine is running. Maybe a belt or bearing? It seems too soon for these parts to be going. Any ideas?
  • ohmygoshohmygosh Member Posts: 66
    I have a 2008 Prius with about 5200 miles. At times when the brakes were applied I had the sensation that the car accelerated. When I took the car in for initial service they could not duplicate the problem. I don't know if it is a coincidence but 2 weeks later my car would not start. When the power button was pushed the information screen came up but the car did not turn on. If I held the power button down for a 2nd time the warning lights came up for brakes, check engine, etc. The car would only shift into neutral. I started over several times but could not get the engine to start and it was towed to the dealer. I am awaiting a response, but if anyone has a similar problem I would appreciate your feedback. Really concerned !!!
  • 650spx650spx Member Posts: 48
    The dealer can access the data in the computer and can tell if she had accidently put the car in nutral and steped on the gas to drive. This error is most likley driver error. The service sales department most likley did not inform her how to opperate the vechile and she should go back to her sales person to review with her how to opperate the car properley. The sales department sometimes goes a little quick and depends on service to pick up the slack. Mabey you should go with her just to be sure everything is explained properley just to remove all doubt. This is toyots most trouble free vechile. good luck
  • doug75doug75 Member Posts: 2
    Does anyone know what would cause my engine warning lights to come on my car has 106,000 miles on it i was taking a trip from tenn to mich the warning light s came on i pulled over checked oil radiator batterys could not find anything wrong sat on the side of the road for 30 min then started the car back up it ran fine for 38 miles then it did it again i sat for 30 min then drove for 87 miles the warning lights came on again it did this for 400 miles the last 80 the lights never came back on any ideas anyone ?
  • kdhspyderkdhspyder Member Posts: 7,160
    There may be hundreds of reasons just like any other vehicle on the road now. As always the first thing to check is if the gas cap is tightly screwed on. After that it could be the 02 sensors, cat converter, misfiring, bad fuel, etc. just like any other vehicle. The best solution is bring it into a Toyota dealer that can plugin a scanguage. When the check engine light comes on it 'throws a code' so that the tech can run down the problem.

    When you get this info go onto a site like PriusChat and post the problem along with the 'code'. There are Master Techs and very smart people there that can give you straight info.
  • doug75doug75 Member Posts: 2
    well see when the light comes on it says to tow to the nearest dealer but the light might not come on at all thanks for the info
  • downinbhdowninbh Member Posts: 7
    I have a 2003 prius. My lights have come on many times. I have to pay $80 just for them to test it and then what ever the cost is to fix it. I love the car, but I'm also frustrated with on much control the dealer has. The last time it went off, they said they "thought" it had something to do with the fuel line. It went off again 2 days later. I've owned the car 1 year, and the light has come on about 5 or 6 times. Good thing I bought a service contract.
  • HarrybhHarrybh Member Posts: 1
    It's been very cold lately. A few evenings ago, after a long day shift, my wife came out and couldn't start our 04 Prius. All the dash warning lights came on and stayed on. The car would not go into any drive gear only Park & Neutral. She shut down the car, got out and had to lock the door manually as it would not respond to the keyless.
    It was eventually towed to our mechanics - he diagnosed a frozen parking brake. Oddly, he had the same "problem" with his Prius that morning. A day later, on a cold morning, I couldn't get the car door to open with the "keyless." I opened it with the key and started up the car. All dash lights came on and the car would not go into any drive gear. I shut down the car got out, locked it with the key, went inside. Three minutes later I came out. The car responded to the "keyless" and started normally and drove normally. A day later I took it to our local dealership where they were "not able to duplicate the problem."
    The diagnostic gave some various indications of a low 12v battery but the battery itself was strong. So, unless the dealer has the car hooked up to diagnostic and the problem occurs, I'm outta luck.
    Service records show an ECM update was done on the car - we bought it used in 06.
    Any ideas?
  • spiakspiak Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Prius with 161,000 miles on it. It has been a great car. A problem I am having is when it is cold (below 32 degrees F) When I start the car in the morning it starts right up will run for about 10 to 15 seconds then shuts off and all warning lights come on. Then when I try to re-start the engine will not turn on for three more attempts but it will always start on the fourth try. Always! Then the car runs fine. The warning lights will remain on until the next day and then will go off, or I can turn the engine on and off four times and the warning lights go out always on the fourth restart. Any info would be greatly appreciated
  • acdiiacdii Member Posts: 753
    I stand corrected, Mobil 1 does increase fuel economy. When I posted that I had a Prius, I have since traded to a Hyundai Veracruz with the V6. The first oil change I used Mobil 1 and did see a 20% increase in fuel economy. I Also now have a 2009 Camry Hybrid and Mobil 1 did not show any improvement in economy. Even so, the peace of mind from using Synthetics over regular dino is worth it. Longer times between oil changes, means less waste oil, better protection for your engine, and better fuel economy for larger engines.

    BTW did you know that part of the oil used to make Synthetic oils comes from rendered animals?

    "Mobil 1 0w-20 is what I use in my Ford. They want 5w-20, and this is an official substitute."

    Just so you know, the Ford motorcraft 5-w20 is a synthetic blend, it is part dino, part synthetic. Using a 0-20 over 5-20 gives better protection in cold weather starts and meets the manufacturers warranty requirements and CARB. If you use 10w-40 Mobil 1, you are still protected, but will not meet CARB, and your cold protection is not as good. THe higher the numbers, the thicker the base oil. The thicker the oil, the more effort to get it where it needs to go, and the harder the engine works due to fluid dynamics. The thicker fluid offers resistance as opposed to friction, it still protects well, but requires effort to get past that resistance.

    The reason slick 50 had to pull teflon out is due to two things, one is when burned, and it does get burned, it pollutes something fierce, and second, it tends to expand when heated and has been known to clog oil filters.
  • spiakspiak Member Posts: 2
    I'm responding to my own question. I broke down and brought my 2002 prius in to the dealer. It turns out that the throttle body was very dirty. They cleaned it and everything is fine. Posting this in case someone has the same problem. They say it should be cleaned every 15000 miles or once a year. Apparently I clean mine every 162,000 miles.
  • Wool948Wool948 Member Posts: 5
    I was driving my 2008 Prius (24500 miles on the odometer) on the hwy at 60 mph, the low fuel indicator light starts flashing, since i was only 12 miles to my destination and the vehicle averages 44 t0 48 mpg, no worry, I figured there is perhaps 2.5 to 3 gls. left in the tank, I can go another 100 miles If was in the middle of nowhere. All of a sudden the engine shuts off, I pulled over thinking that I ran out of gas and called AAA for help. But after a while, I was able to start the engine, I could not drive foward but I was able to back up. The vehicle was taken to the dealer on a flatbed. They claim that the car ran out of gas, that my problem had nothing to do with the perfomance of the engine, it's not a warranty work. The same inccident occured 2 weeks earlier on a full tank of gas, then I pulled over for a few seconds and continue my trip, at the time i thought nothing of it, just a freak thing. Has anyone experienced that problem? Your input will be greatly appreciated
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