Chrysler Concorde Electrical Issues

ellenballellenball Member Posts: 2
Need help soon!!!! I am having an eletrical problem or a very pissed off ghost has decided to haunt my car and I need to figure it out one way or another. Does anyone know what could be the problem with my 2000 Concorde LXI?

It started with the lights inside the car blinking on and off, next it went to the dash lights blinking on and off (i.e. the air bag, oil lights, etc...) after that my stereo would switch from the CD player to the radio in mid-song, and later my air conditioner would come on, even though the compressor is broken. I have taken it to two electrical mechanics and neither has identified the problem.

I have spent a small fortune on this car already (i.e. fixing the rear windows that still wont come down, fixing the rear brake lights that would not go off and several other general maintenance repairs) and I just would like to know what the problem is (short of selling the car and buying a new one that I cannot afford), so that I can have it repaired once and for all.


  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    If another Concorde owner with the same problem shows up, you might want to post over in the generic Electronic Gremlins topic in Maintenance & Repair.
  • trmorris74trmorris74 Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same exact issues with my LHS! Since February I've spent $2,100 getting extensive work done under the hood and the car is still giving me problems. The engine was replaced a year ago. In Feb. there was a fire under the hood. Got new battery and wiring. It stopped in March and wouldn't turn over, had it towed, got some other crap replaced, and in June had the alternator and a new battery installed...told it has to be the electrical/wiring. The head lights are very dim, can't be seen. The dashboard lights are nonexistant and I can't get rid of the check engine light. I want no NEED to know if there is an inexpensive way to get this taken care of without having to get a new car, it just can't be done right now.
  • bliesveldbliesveld Member Posts: 1
    fire under the hood

    You may want to check the recalls for the car, my 1997 Concorde had a recall for leaky fuel rails... I went to check the oil one day and I had gas all over the inside of the engine... If I hadn't found it there would have been a huge fire.

    This might have been what happened to you.
  • wheezingdogzwheezingdogz Member Posts: 2
    WOW - I've got the exact issue you describe on my 2000 Concorde LX! Interior lights blinking on and off randomly to the extent that the battery died on Monday, boosted car and it has worked(?) OK since. Not sure if you're still following this thread but have you had any success getting this problem fixed?
  • mondo3mondo3 Member Posts: 2
    Hi I have a 98 concorde, after the 2.7 threw up I opted for a 3.5, was lucky to find a t-boned 300 donor,, that was 30,000 miles ago, car has run and still runs like a raped ape, but a month or so ago, my check engine light came on.. it was 1698 which is bad ground or no communication tween ecm and tcm, car runs and shifts fine.. My tach, speedo and temp guage sometimes work and sometimes not.. it has nothing to do with bumps.. I can be sitting idling in driveway, tach and temp will be working, then drop to zero, after a few minutes they will come back, while driving sometimes the speedo and tach will seem to get stuck,, and then increase to correct speed,, my cruise works fine when the guages are working, and it does not quit when the guages do.. But I cannot set cruise if the guages are off.. Also when the guages aren't working, my gas guage is off..Anybody have any clues!!!???
  • ellenballellenball Member Posts: 2
    No, I haven't had any success to date. The lights have stopped blinking for now, but now my cruise control light comes on at random. I am taking my car to the dealership this week and discussing the problem with them. I hope I can get a solution soon. I will keep you posted.
  • wheezingdogzwheezingdogz Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the update. I took mine to a repair shop and they hooked it up to their diagnostic system but of coarse when I actually want the problem to occur it won't and therefore the system did not provide any direction on what the problem could be. So basically I'm no further ahead.
  • mondo3mondo3 Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I posted a message about our 98 concorde with electrical gremlins.. My solution came when one day the car would not start.. It turns out that one of the 2 bolts that afix the 2 red wires to the positive terminal was stripped, it would snug, but was not tight enough for a good connection,, I also had flashing lights, trunk light would not work, intermittent guages, shift indicator light would not work.. I had this at a repair shop only for them to tell me that the computer was fried.. Maybe this is not your problem,, but it would be a very cheap fix.. PS pull up the airbox,, it is a million times easier than pulling off the wheel and inner fender,, good luck.
  • slovacekslovacek Member Posts: 1
    Hello, I had a 1990 chrysler new yorker 5th ave several years ago with the exact problem. It turned out to be the ignition switch. I had to laugh when I read about the ghosts because that is exactly what it seemed like!

    Also, it wound up having to have a new motor put into it & luckily I had purchased an extended warranty so it was covered. I now have a 1998 chrysler concorde lxi that has 56,000 miles & the body is in showroom condition & it too needs a new motor. (of course the warranty expired @ 50K miles)I was told by the service tech that a new motor costs $5K which is more than the car is worth since it is 9 years old. Chrysler was no help when I contacted them. I googled chryser complaints & there were several web sites with customer complaints with the same problems on concordes & 300C's, some still new & under warranty & chrysler also refused to honor those warranties saying it was the customers fault. Go to as it is the one with the most complaints. I know I will never own another chrysler!!
    Thanks for letting me vent
  • debb32303debb32303 Member Posts: 1
    i will be driving and with lights,radio,heater or air on wipers and all at once i loose transmission gears so i pull over shut car off and restart and car works great what could be the promblem does not do it all the time
  • konsoul12konsoul12 Member Posts: 6
    yesterday i finally figured out how to change my brake pads on a 97 concorde lx..and since then the parking brake like near my speedometer turns off and then on for a while and then just randomly turns off....could i have done something to the brakes? they work fine to me...bled them and everything....

    one thing it could possibly be is that the resevoir for the brake fluid isnt all the way filled up...but when i take the cap off it still has some in it. would i need to fill it up to the max line possibly?

    also does the same thing with my brights near the speedometer...ever since i changed the bulb the light stays on all the time (which i did that maybe 3-4 months ago)
  • konsoul12konsoul12 Member Posts: 6
    ok....well...a couple of problems.. when i changed my front brake pads on my 97 concorde, all went semi smooth (minus the 4 hours it took me to figure out how to do it), all except for the screws and bolts on my car. for instance the two screws that hold the caliper to the rotor are severely rusted (pretty much all of them on the car are) and i really need to change my back pads (diskbrakes) but one of the screws that i mention will not come off for the life of me. also it is basically stripped almost.

    so ya basically my question is that ive tried wd40 and that didnt work..not even the right size socket or regular wrench could do the trick, so what should i do if i didnt want to take it to the shop to have them do it? (keep in mind that im limited on tools, so if i need to get someone with a compressor socket, lemme know)
  • dpclarkjrdpclarkjr Member Posts: 1
    Hey everyone! I have a 2000 chrysler concorde and recently the battery light has come on... Swaped out the altenator and checked the battery and it still registers a code. I wanted to know is there a fused link anywhere that would keep the car from keeping a charge? Please help me with this if you have any information!
  • stevenh1stevenh1 Member Posts: 2
    I have had and on going problem of my Concorde not starting in the cold. The engine cranks but does not kick over, but when the weather warms up it starts. I had the cam sensor and the crank sensor replaced 6 months ago. It ran fine until a month ago, took it to the dealer and it started for them so they couldn't tell me what happened.
  • r2d8r2d8 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1998 Chrysler Concorde with a little over 100,000 original miles on the engine. A couple of months ago, while driving, the gas gauge needle dropped down causing the ding sound that the tank is empty but the tank is not empty. I filled the tank up full, the needle did not drop again until the tank got down to 3/4 tank, then it continued drop off and on until the needle showed it was below 1/2 tank. I took it to the garage, the mechanic stated it did not do this strange thing for him but he cleaned the connectors in the wiring under the front driver's seat. It was a couple of days after that when that it started dropping again. What is this? what needs to be fixed? is something to do with the float? float sensor? Everyone is scratching their heads on this one.
  • reilly_boy_99reilly_boy_99 Member Posts: 2
    I replaced my rack & pinion & in the process I broke the clockspring. I replaced the clockspring & now the air bag light is on. My cruise control works & all lights. Is there a way get rid of the air bag light without using a scanner?
  • grandmascargrandmascar Member Posts: 2
    I had the same problem with the interior lights flashing, then I couldn't turn them off, so I took out all the bulbs so my battery wouldn't be drained. Yesterday I was driving and all of a sudden lost power, including my steering. I coasted to the side of the road. My headlights and dashboard still worked. (I do have plenty of gas in tank.) I waited a minute or so, then restarted the car. I drove it home but now I don't know what to do. Why would the car lose power while driving? This is the worst piece of crap car I have ever owned! :lemon: :mad:
  • lbsalvinlbsalvin Member Posts: 1
    I lost air bags, power windows and heater control. I think it may be related to the ignition switch? the key on engine running fuse works, but no power in the fuse box for the above mentioned components. Any ideas?
  • Eaglesoar23Eaglesoar23 Member Posts: 2
    You are certainly not the only one. Chrysler Concorde wiring is terrible. It breaks down after 8-10 years and then cold and moisture effects it. I have a 1994 Concorde and it only will not start when the temp drops below 50. I have seen a few other posts stating this same problem. When I turn the key to the on position the fule needle does not rise and I notice that is because the fuel pump is not making a "whirring" sound and turning on. It is a problem within the wires somewhere between the power source and the fuel pump under the trunk lining. Strange connection between these two. I am in Florida and it has been cold so now I wait for it to warm up enough so I can go to work. Yesterday it was about 10am. CRAZY! Did you find out an answer to this similiar issue? I have not seen anything posted. Let me know and I will let you know. Thanks.
  • Eaglesoar23Eaglesoar23 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1994 Concorde and it only will not start when the temp drops below 50. I have seen a few other posts stating this same problem. When I turn the key to the on position the fule needle does not rise and I notice that is because the fuel pump is not making a "whirring" sound and turning on. It is a problem within the wires somewhere between the power source and the fuel pump under the trunk lining. Strange connection between these two. As soon as it is around 45-50 degrees the fuel pump will turn on and the car works fine. Any ideas where in the wiring this is being caused??? Thanks.
  • bluelisabluelisa Member Posts: 1
    Help, My 2001 chrysler concorde gas gauge flashes empty to full, empty to full as I am driving. Sent it to the shop, and they could not reproduce it, Then the car started to jerk, it cost me 500$ for some kind of "timing device" and the car still flashes empty full while I am driving with a full tank... HELP can't afford more repairs, but want to know, is this safe? Can I fix this myself with some sort of fuse? Desperately seeking answers
  • barisaxkenbarisaxken Member Posts: 2
    long story short, no fuel pressure, found half of fuses without voltage until I wiggle the steering wheel. Then the gages, blower motor, fuel pump start working until the steering wheel (column) is moved again and looses voltage. what could be causing this?
  • jacek3jacek3 Member Posts: 2
    I have a second hand 96 Concorde LXi - bought 3.5 years ago from retired couple at 46 000 km, right now it has 78 000 km - mechanically sound but electrically rather a lemon.

    To make the story not too long - right now the overhead console temperature display behaves not very well. Most of the time it takes about 10 min. of driving before it "catches up" to the outside temperature. But some time it's even more weird - today in the underground garage it was showing 17 C, almost immediately after leaving garage jumped to 20 C though I felt that it still was NOT right (it felt more like around 25 C). Than after about another 10 min. of driving it jumped to 24 C (which is about right). The Automatic Temperature Control was OFF all the time.

    I have observed this strange behavior for about 6 past months. What worries me most is that ATS sensor also probably "talks" to the main computer (via Body Control Module, BCM) that controls A/C and once A/C gets turned on the things may really get out of hand.

    Any clues what causes the problem ? Is it the ATM or BCM ? I have replaced the main computer (Power Control Module) about 3 years ago.
  • jacek3jacek3 Member Posts: 2
    Just to continue on my previous message - the Automatic Temperature Control unit does NOT show any error codes (after setting temperature to 75 F and pushing and holding pressed 3 control buttons till the display flashes)
  • descottdescott Member Posts: 1
    Hi I am having the same exact problem. It started two day ago. Did you find
    our what is causing the problem? What did you do to fix it?
  • songbird2songbird2 Member Posts: 2
    I am having gremlins as well on my 1998 concorde. Three months ago my lights would not go off exterior and interior, ran the battery down. Recharged it..then my door locks pop up and down the entire time motor is running. Now battery light comes on and dings. I have no idea whats up. I am changing battery today. Any thoughts?
  • r2d8r2d8 Member Posts: 2
    I finally traded my 1998 Chrysler Concorde in on another vehicle. All the gauges began to mal function, I had no reading on temp, speedometer, odometer, gas, or RPM. I tried to get the problem fixed but the problem could not be found without putting the car in the shop for several days so the tech could try to locate the problem, which, as you know, could amount to several hundreds of dollars, and I was told there was no guarantee they could find the problem.
    In the odometer window the code noBus was visible. I was told all that meant was there was a loose connection between the two computers. Grimlins? you bet because when the gauges were working the check engine light would stay on, when they were not working, all the dash lights would be on as well.
    I dumped that grimlin infested car for good.
  • songbird2songbird2 Member Posts: 2
    Well I had my battery changed..door locks stopped popping FOR NOW. but in the past they periodically stopped for a few days only to return later.. Wish me luck.
  • saxsnowmansaxsnowman Member Posts: 2
    I am having the sane problem as a couple others...I have a 2002 Concorde & the airbag light comes on sometimes, when it does the turn signals don't work, the windows won't roll up or down & the heater blower won't run. I haven't read anyone that actually posted a fix for this. I can move or wiggle the key & it stops for a while, but returns unexpectidly. I replaced the ignition tumbler & that didn't fix it!

    Anyone ever fix this problem?????

    Please someone HELP?
    This is driving me nuts!

    thanx - Bob
  • palhal1palhal1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a '99 Concorde LXi I bought new. It now has only 54,000 miles on it. About a month ago the engine stalled. Restarted and stalled again. Towed to local garage. Diagnosed as Crankshaft Positoning Sensor and replaced. 5 days later it stalled again. Local garage couldn't solve problem. Hat it towed to a dealer. It has been there for 2 weeks. They say a short is causing the ASD Relay to trip which can cause the engine to stall. They opened the wiring harness but said the short was not pulling enough ohms to cause the relay to trip. A couple of days age they mentioned a 'Intake Plenum', whatever that is. I am pulling my hair.
  • barisaxkenbarisaxken Member Posts: 2
    Yes I ran across this also, I found the electrical connection at the ignition switch was loose. All I did was tighten each connector & problem fixed. Very easy.
  • palhal1palhal1 Member Posts: 2
    My goodness. If this turns out to fix my problem, you will be designated as a bona-fide saint. I will take this to the dealer first thing Monday morning. I was ready to start car shopping for another car (not my first choise to do).
    Thank you for your input.
  • darnetta1darnetta1 Member Posts: 2
    Hal, did what Ken said work?
    I have a 98 Concorde, my ABS light came on Monday, with that my windows became stuck in the up position, turn signals won't work and my AC/heat won't come on. It's well in the 90's here and this is my only vehicle. It takes me 7 minutes to get to work and I feel like I'm going to pass out everyday while on my way in since the internal temp is so high. I've been walking everywhere else. I've heard it could also be the fuse board, whatever that is. Please answer, thanks
  • pheonixjwt1pheonixjwt1 Member Posts: 1
    the problem, for a few weeks I was having my car not turn over when I would turn the ignition but when that would happen I would just turn the key over and over and after a few turns it would start but this was intermittent.
    Recently I was driving and had the ABS light TRAK OFF light and sortly after the battery light came on also and I noticed that when to much power was being drawn it was having an affect on the other electrical stuff. the dash lights flicked and the radio would turn off and on the computer display by the rear view mirror would light up like at car starts and then turn to its display and this would happen about the same time as the radio would I later just turned off the radio.
    I removed the alternator and had it checked and was told it was good, battery tested out good also.
    was told that the problem could be my alternator relay because it is not located on my alternator or maybe my ECU
    jumped car to move car then jumped car again and drive to town, no change same as before. but also had car try and have power cut out on me twice, then a few miles later power cut out. battery acted dead anuff that it didn't want to charge or I just did not give it time anuff for it to charge. car now has all lights in dash light up and flicker then go normal after after a few seconds, when key is turned lights flicker off will not start also.
    would appreciate any help anyone can give,
  • jacksmjjacksmj Member Posts: 1
    I'm having the same problem and just starting to look in to it. I was wondering if you had it fixed or did you get a new car, But it looks like I will be spending the day...week...or year looking for the issue wish me luck.
  • cgreenficgreenfi Member Posts: 1
    I recently started having the same issue with my '01 Concorde, but it only happens when the car's sitting out in the heat for a very long time (6-9 hrs). Airbag light goes on, directionals won't work, windows won't roll up or down, and the AC blower won't run! Impossible to drive when it's 95 outside and about 120 in the car! Normally, I can drive about 15 feet, turn key to off, restart and it will then work. Some days it takes a few tries, but today, after about 15 minutes of driving in the parking lot, I gave up. Luckily I left each window down about an inch, so I survived. Drove about 10 miles, when I came to a red light, I turned the car off and back on, and it worked! Wasn't happening when I got oil change, so mechanic couldn't check it out! Hoping to replace this car soon (157k miles), but not today! Any ideas other than waiting for a cool front?
  • darnetta1darnetta1 Member Posts: 2
    What the problem for me ended up being was the ignition switch. Initially my brother went to the junk yard and found a car like mine and changed the part where the key goes in to start the car. (making me need a key for my doors, another to start) It seemed to work but only for a short time. I finally took it to Midas and it was the actual switch, which had that been done first I wouldn't have needed the extra key. Weird, something like that would disable windows and ac. That car caught fire, (diff issue) and I now have a new one
  • tonya9tonya9 Member Posts: 2
    We are having the same problem with our 98'concorde. Anything and everything that could be replaced on this car, has been replaced. Now recently.. The battery light came on, then went off, and now is back on. As my husband was driving down the hi-way, the darn thing dropped down 3 gears and shut off on him.I know this dumb car has electrical problems, but we are really hoping it is just the alternator. We have a extra battery inside for back up. been having starting problems for a while now. It would run great, then you stop and turn off car and then nothing. wont start. so sick of this car.. :mad: never again will I buy a chrysler!!! So many problems all the time, and this is just to name one of the MANY problems we have had with this car since day one.. husband got so fed up, he went out and bought a new car that day... :)
  • tonya9tonya9 Member Posts: 2
    :lemon: :lemon: :lemon: :lemon: :lemon: 98' CHRYSLER CONCORDE 2.7 L engine
  • jsigjsig Member Posts: 1
    1999 Chrysler Concorde draw on the battery from fuse 7 and 19. what can i do to fix this. the fuses are for (fuse#7) illum lamps/part lamps.and (fuse#19) lnterior lamps. i have gone thru everthing in side for the car and unhooked all for lights but its still there
  • mrs_saltinemrs_saltine Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem with my concorde. I have replaced the battery and almost shelled out for an alternator, but didn't. I am wondering if you repaired or replaced your concorde? i have had it with this car. I like it a lot but I just want it to run like it did on October 5, 2011 when I bought it. I am not able to return it and have already replaced the tie-rod ends (inner and outer), alignment, battery, and almost the alternator. Please help...
  • cadencecadence Member Posts: 5
    unfortunately i think the problems most are experiencing with their concordes is due to faulty or incompetent chrysler service personnel. if you can find a local mechanic to diagnose problems, sometimes you're much better off. i've always been spooked by the chrysler dealerships in my city as grossly incompetent and interested only in getting you to pay the highest bill possible.
    i am having similar problems and have been for a couple of years now. key locking in ignition, engine not turning over when key is turned, ALL dash lights staying lit with gauges dead, AC on but blowing out hot air, has gotten so bad I am finally taking the car to my mechanic for several days while he finds the electrical short (which he thinks it is, (not the BCM).
  • driznu24driznu24 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 94 concorde abs,and airbag lights on, ac does not work and power windows, Im getting power to the window harness they just dont go down and power to the climate control switch also, any sugestions
  • shelliloshellilo Member Posts: 2
    my 2000 concord xl had a little short in the steering column, i saw a puff of smoke, smelled burned wiring for a few seconds, now no tail lights, dash lights, radio, no power to the windows. they will all work when leaving the high low beam arm on the column engaged except the windows. can anyone tell me if its a relay or a fuse? where its located? if thats the issue?
  • TChalmersORTChalmersOR OregonMember Posts: 2
    Thank you to Edmunds for keeping this forum around. And thanks to those who posted the Ignition Switch solution to the weird combination of: Windows quit, Turn Signals quit, HVAC quit, and the ABS, Brake, and Airbag LEDs stuck on. I replaced the ignition switch in my 98 Concorde today and those problems are gone.

    It's a 3D jigsaw puzzle to get in there and put things back together, but having the Haynes or Chilton book helps a lot. One thing they didn't say is to move the seat all the way back before disconnecting the battery negative. Also, you will need an E5 External Star Socket (aka, Torx Female Socket.)

  • Davebartsr69Davebartsr69 Member Posts: 0

    I have a 1998 concorde that also has some of these problems , all power goes off completely at weird times. My gremlins are in dash , moved to radio and heat ac control. I put a new battery in it that helped for about a month - shut down 5 times today so i plugged in at work never seen so many codes. I erased all and replaced 30 amp safety shut down fues. That helped for about 1/2 hour than battery light came on again. Tested battery and it now drained to 220 on a one month old 875 cca battery. I also see my dash display and clock display on my radio dims down than comes back on bright again. My now traction control stays light up on dash.

  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Member Posts: 5,592
    I would start by testing the charging system and then move onto confirming that the system voltage is correct to all of the modules that had generated codes.

    Do not clear any more codes that set until this is repaired. Clearing codes can hide information that
    could have otherwise helped to make the diagnostics easier and more efficient. Right now, if I was looking at this I would want to know if any modules had been setting low system voltage codes and if some of them were, which ones. If system voltage is incorrect, all bets are off as to whether any other codes being set are valid or not.
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