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Comments
The lens sweeps WAY, WAY back up the fender, and it looks nearly impossible to reach behind to replace a simple bulb without removing the fender or lens.
What's the procedure?
It's the seat itself shifting in the track. This has been a problem with the majority of owners with power seats that I've heard from, and my '07 suffers from the seat shift (or squirm) as well.
IIRC, there's something wrong with the seat track itself, but owners that have them replaced reported a fix that only lasted briefly, with the symptoms returning soon after. Last I heard, Nissan was working on the problem, and there MAY be a TSB within the near future with a (hopefully) permanent fix.
I love the car other than that....oh and some of them have a vibration in the sterring at highways speeds. Tire balance ??
The bottom cushions are long enough, but they are seemingly angled down in front so much that I can't get any thigh support (REALLY bad on passenger side).
I do have a goofy build (6'3" with very long legs), but I am going to see about getting some custom work done on the mounts to raise the front edge of the seat cushions a couple inches.
Right now, I get a sore bum from the fact that all of my weight is being supported by my tailbone (instead of my thighs).
I'm sure your leather seats might make it worse (tendency to slide forward in seats).
(IRC, there's something wrong with the seat track itself, but owners that have them replaced reported a fix that only lasted briefly, with the symptoms returning soon after. Last I heard, Nissan was working on the problem, and there MAY be a TSB within the near future with a (hopefully) permanent fix)
As I was considering a loaded v6 Altima I decided to test out the Maxima. The seats are VERY comfortable and the ride is very quiet. Guess what I am buying
I just bought a Brand New Nissan 2008 2.5 S Basic model no packages, zip with 6 miles on it. I have since put 200 miles on it and I already talked to the person who sold me the car but here is my problem.
When I turn the wheel, left or right you hear this noise as if it is catching on something. If I make a hard left turn i.e turning the wheel all the way left or likewise right you hear this loud noise. As mentioned before as if its catching on something.
My sales person I need to make a appt for Nissan to have them "file or whatever' it down. Has anyone else had this problem? I will not have time for at least 2 weeks to make a appt but I do not want to loose steering control or what not because a cord is loose. I don't know, just chatting. Let me know if anyone else has had or has this problem and what you did etc.
Thanks,
I can understand why some folks don't like it, though...
The really great thing about a CVT is that it can be re-programmed to behave in many different ways, unlike most standard automatics, as the gear ratios in a standard auto are pretty much predetermined at the time of manufacture. I would expect that "performance" software upgrades may be available for the CVT from 3rd parties in the near future as well.
In any case, I think it is the CVT is the wave of the future, and in just a few years, it will be the primary type of automatic transmission installed in cars...Less moving parts, cheaper to manufacture and maintain, better MPG and software upgradeable...
http://cgi.ebay.com/CAR-AUDIO-INPUT-3-5MM-AUX-CABLE-CORD-FOR-MP3-IPOD-VIDEO_W0QQ- itemZ270212742442QQihZ017QQcategoryZ48680QQcmdZViewItem
What did you ask for when you brought it in for repair. I want to bring mine in and want to make sure they (the dealer) are aware of the problem and won't say they can't do anything about it. What dealer did you take your to and where. So I can have some ammunition when I bring it in. Thanks, Fred.
Anyway, fill the tires up to 35-36 psi, and it SHOULD turn the light off after a few miles.
the system is not a joke and works as its intended to. Oh, the system will reset itself once the car exceeds 20-25mph, if the pressure is correct. it wont take days as the dealer told you.
I don't know if you would call it a "problem" or not, but an ultra sensitive sending unit would seem to negate the value of the TPM system as a whole. I would also think that on a brand new car, a reputable dealer should correct it immediately. After all, the car is supposed to be delivered in complete working order, unless you signed away that right for some unkown reason.
Remember, though, these systems are not foolproof even when there is a problem. My wife picked up a bolt in the sidewall (damndest thing I have ever seen--she works at a place where there is much new construction going on...) and, believe it or not, the tire held pressure, so no TPM warning light. Still, it was a driving hazard, and I found it checking the tire pressures...the bolt was completely through the sidewall. Bottom line---she was provided the "opportunity" to purchase a new run-flat, and I was reminded that nothing beats a regular "cursory" inspection of your vehicles.
Thanks!
Remember when we used to drive out pleased as punch with radio/heater/overdrive?
It really is a great car. The tech package just blows my mind....I can't believe what they can put into cars nowadays (bluetooth, Nav traffic updates, voice commands, etc...amazing).
I think it's the VDC initializing itself, but I'll check next time I go into the dealer for something.
Well, I could definitely live with that answer.......is this something you've heard of before?
(found on nissanforums.com)
"The ABS includes electronic sensors, electric pumps, hydraulic solenoids and a computer. The computer has a built-in diagnostic feature that tests the system each time you start the engine and move the vehicle at low speed in forward or reverse. When the self-test occurs, you may hear a "clunk" noise and/or feel a pulsation in the brake pedal. This is normal and does not indicate a malfunction.
Taken directly from the manual page 5-22."
OOPS, hold on a sec. I have the 2.5 SL which does not include the VDC. I would have to have the premium package also with a 3.5 L engine. Back to square one with the noise. Maybe it's dealer time.
The reason I wasn't really worried though, is it seems as if it were a real problem like a loose heat shield or something it would manifest itself during stop/starts, or..ah.. "spirited" driving.
But, good to know regardless.
Thanks for that info, that is exactly the sound I get ("clunk" noise) and it only happens after I back out of a driveway or parking space. Very minor thing and its good to hear that its normal. It did seem strange that it only occured when I started driving and then quickly went away.
Anyway, thanks again, that is great info.
As boring as a discussion of the Chinese economy during World War II...
I would say precision gray is more like a dark silver and dark slate is a really dark gray with slight hint of blue.
Sorry that's the best I can do. I own a dark slate and a night armor xterra, they are nearly the same color except you can really see the blue in the altima when they are side by side.
I lined up a dark slate, precision gray and black at the dealership to help my wife and I decide which color.....that was what worked best for us.
i have a 2008 Altima (sedan), last nite when i went out for dinner, left the lights on and after an hr and a half came back the car would not start. Called AAA and they jumpstarted the car. But interestingly the radio panel (radio, cd etc) does not turn on at all. Do you think something shorted or do i have to run the car longer (already ran it for 20 mins last nite and about 35 mins this morning). I want to see if there is something else that can be done before i take it to a Nissan Dealer.
has any one experienced this?
pls help
AS for a previous Oil question.... the required oil grade in printed in your owners manual and should alos be on the oil fill cap. Most newer cars require either 5W30 or 5W20. Be sure to use the correct one. Cars that require 5W20 may have problems with the vairable valve timing if the oil weight is the wrong viscosity. 0W20 will also work for 5W20. It's the second higher number that's more ciritical to VVT operations. The first number just affects viscosity at low temeratures. After a few minutes it's no longer important.
The dealer DOES NOT need to change your oil to maintain your warranty. That is BS. Just document the service in your service log, and try and keep the reciepts. They would need to prove through oil analysis that the oil had not been changed or that it was incorrect. The owner would merely need to file an Affidavit stating that they changed the oil. Honestly, I trust myself to change the oil correctly. I've never screwed-up an oil change. I've seen dealers and shops do it on serveral occasions to my dad's car.
Any advice from knowledgeable gentlemen and ladies....please?~!?
SP :lemon:
I have test drove other altima from Dealer's lot and found it was behaving same as my car but i drove Sentra without manual mode and it did not give any vibrations. Is it normal for all Altima's with CVTor is something wrong with my car ?
But, I believe the tires are covered for about 12k miles. you might want to call your dealer and check.
oh, and by the way, my altima rides as smooth as if it were on glass at speeds of about 90mph.