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Honda Civic Si Upgrades and Mods

themistoclesthemistocles Posts: 95
edited March 2014 in Honda
Hello there all. Im 21 years old, just signed up for this site, looks like some good discussions. I bought a 2007 blue pearl Civic Si coupe in october of 06. Ive been absolutely in love with it. sometimes i just wake up in the middle of the night and cant get back to sleep, so i hop in mah car and go for a joy ride down some country roads, haha.
anyway, ive been lookin at getting some aftermarket products like, a full exhaust and intake,clutch, comp chip. I dont know what brands are the best and really not exactly sure what i should get at all. Ill start with the basics like exhaust and intake, maybe clutch too? what suggestions do ya guys got?
and also im curious if i broke her in right. i ran her real easy for the first 500 miles, then got a little aggressive after that, did some high runs, havent had any problems. A couple times though, i could smell burnt clutch, is that bad? What about hitting fuel cutoff which is 500 past redline? ive floored it a couple times in a first and second hitting fuel cutoff, havent done that in a long time, but still did it a few times. well, im 7500 miles in, she runs great, take her easy in the day to day city drivin, no traffic + empty roads gotta have some fun sometimes :) sooo fun through the windy back roads.
Also what do you recommend as the best oil for her? should i go synthetic like that Q max stuff?
Thanks a ton for your input

Comments

  • eldainoeldaino Posts: 1,618
    burnt clutch is always bad! but your car should be fine.

    anything by aem, skunk, nuespeed, buddy club mugen should be great for the car. hondata makes good ecu upgrades as well.
  • yea was my mistake with the clutch, got a little gitty when i first got it and shifted too fast. so only doing it a couple times shouldnt be too bad? is it just wearing on the clutch, not hurtin anything else? im going for my 7500 mile service and they said part of it is adjusting the clutch.
  • Ive got a 2007 honda civic Si and just got an oil change from the dealership. Well they accidently put mobile 1 5w 20 and a engine treatment additive. I noticed it right away on the receit before i drove it and was like you put the wrong oil in the engine, and the manual also says to not put additives in it! so i made them redo the oil change.
    I was thinking that they made a mistake and did a oil change thinking it was a normal civic or something.

    What do you guys think of these engine oil additives? im thinking that the synthetic oils already have enough additives and that these "engine treatment additives" probably should be used with a non synthetic oil in a normal civic, if they should be used at all.

    Or if there is a engine oil additive right for a 2007 civic si, which do you think it is?

    im really thinking though that i dont want to use a additive at all, except maybe when im over 100k miles or something.
  • Ive noticed that alot of people have talked about getting there oil changed at the dealership, then realizing they got 5w 20 instead of 5w 30. Well I went into the dealership to talk to the manager, and he was like well heres the problem... and he laid out the honda tech book for all the service men doing oil changes. All the books showed 5w 20 for the Si! and these are the books issued to the dealerships by honda!
    So, look at your records, see if theyve been changing your oil with 5w20 and watch out for future oil changes. I dont know the extent of the problem, but ive called a couple dealerships around here, and there tech books show 5w 20. So im wondering if its all over the USA.
  • kork13kork13 Posts: 90
    T, you and I seem to be about on the same mind track... I'd love to give my Si some decent mods, just not sure what to go for. Definitely going with a new intake at some point soon-ish, sorta just looking/asking around about more stuff... what exactly is the ECU upgrade that people keep talking about? what does it do for you?

    I also noticed a slight metallic smell a couple times after I'd been driving for a while, but that was all before 1000 miles or so, and I've not noticed it since... Hopefully not too much of an issue, but since it was only that once or twice, I'm not overly concerned...

    About the oil/additives, I know that lighter oils (fluids in general) are usually better for performance cars... Concerning what type of oil, I don't really know. When I go in for my first service, I'll ask for their recommendation--the Honda mechanics would probably know what would be best. About additives, I've been told that most of them aren't really necessary, more of an 'icing on the cake' sort of thing. Personally, until I have a well-trained, reliable mechanic tell me to use them, I've got no intention of ever using them.
  • yea i believe that burnt metalic smell is just from breaking in the engine, cause i only got that smell a couple times in the first 1000 miles too.

    Theres a couple ECU upgrades i believe. The one i know of is from hondata, and it will change the high cams kicking in at 4500, instead of 6000. You will need new headers exhaust and intake for it though. It will also change the redline to 8600.

    I think im going to get an exhaust system first, my honda dealership told me that you gotta make sure you get the right intake if your going to get one, he said something about messing up your 02 sensors. I really forgot what he said, but i think ill do more research before i put the intake in.
    The cheapest thing to do tho, www.schucks.com buy a K & N air filter with oil clean kit. The filter is only 43 dollars instead of 55 in stores, and the cleaning kit is only 10 bucks and you get free shipping too, good deal.
    Then im going to get a full catback exhaust probably from the tuner shop nearby, maybe DC sports headers too.
  • eldainoeldaino Posts: 1,618
    actually, you dont NEED to have the headers and intake;

    hondata's dyno charts are showing you what kind of power increases you'll experience running on 93 octane AND WITH the headers and intake.

    so basically, you'll still have a bit of a hp/tq bump without those things, but to achevie the numbers hondata is showing you, you need to have your car equipped with a respective intake and header combo.
  • well im quoting this straight from hondatas website. http://www.hondata.com/reflash_06_civicsi.html

    "You must have a minimum of an intake or header."
    "It is not designed to work with a stock 06/07 Civic Si and will lose power between 4500rpm and 5600 rpm if installed."

    so you need atleast a intake or header
  • k20ak20a Posts: 1
    It would be a rather stupid mistake to buy a new ECU or to have your current ECU remapped with out having done AT LEAST a header and intake upgrade. You will recieve little if any gain from a new ECU only. The ECU is typically remapped to make better use of installed upgrades such as cams, intakes and exhaust. And even after you did the intake and headers, every mod there after you would eventually need to remap the ECU agian to get everything possible from your money and work.
  • eldainoeldaino Posts: 1,618
    I agree with what you said; i never meant to insinuate that.

    I was only saying that it is possible to put a new ecu in and make very miniscule hp ant tq jumps, but that the hondata data is showing what is possible if you have the intake and header combo.

    If its TOTALLY neccessary, fine. but not ALL cars are like this: there is a ecu upgrade for my vw rabbit that put significant power to the wheels simply by running on premium: its more if you have an intake and full exhaust, but there is NO power LOSSES if you install the chip without the intake and exhaust, like the case would be with the hondata chip on the si.

    Lets not even get started on ecu upgrades for the gti. ;)
  • cz75cz75 Posts: 210
    Additionally, Comptech's header loses mid-range power w/o a high-flow cat and cat-back and the DC header isn't street-legal. Being conservative and only adding parts as they've been proven to make worthwhile gains would be the best policy, IMO. Hondata appears worthwhile, but you can almost count on the dealer not standing behind any engine issues that arise.
  • cz75cz75 Posts: 210
    What have you done in the way of brakes and chassis mods to put additional power under control? Engine mods are putting the cart before the horse. Ought to at least have summer tires and better brake pads installed.
  • What you guys think, AEM short ram or Cold air intake for 06-07 Si?

    Also what oil you think is best? ive heard that a thinner oil is better for performance at high rpm? like 5w20, but with 5w30 or 10w 30, youll maintain much better oil pressure and probably make it last longer
  • cz75cz75 Posts: 210
    You ought to wait until some of the better options hit the market, though, like Comptech.
  • eldainoeldaino Posts: 1,618
    totally true, and out of all the cars that are ever tuned, it seems honda guys are always the ones who want more power without reinforcing the chassis.

    my buddy with the blown civic swapped his turbo b16 into it without ever doing anything to the suspension or brakes except rims w/performance tires and cheesy lowering springs (which have now been replaced with a nice coilover tein suspension.)

    themistocles: ok you obviously have not read my post. Just get the aem short ram. More torque for you, as thats what your si needs.
  • obviously i havent, havent found an answer for my question from anyone. I was tryin to get into a discussion about why one is better than the other and how they compare to the stock intake, but no one seems to be interested or have one installed.

    anyway, im not looking to go racing and what not, just interested in putting a couple mods in. I dont need to go all out and replace the suspension and do all sorts of chassis mods. Im already replacing the brake pads anyway, first thing done. the most id do is just intake, brake pads, maybe a few odds and ends when more crap comes out. Maybe in the future, when its not a brand new car, id do more stuff, like replacing the suspension, and dropping the catalytic converter out then putting new pipes in and race headers an all that jazz(if you register the area you drive in outside of the metro area, never have to go to DEQ).
    anyway, i got the brake pads, im just talkin bout intake now to open up some more air into her.
  • Hey, im looking at getting new tires too. Im thinking either,
    Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-d3, Dunlop SP sport 9000 or yokohama AVS sport, anyone have a preference or input on what they think?
    im leanin toward the Eagle F1's.

    o yea eldaino i didnt mean to be rude or anything, i just really couldnt find any post that was responding to my question about short ram/cold air intakes.
  • cz75cz75 Posts: 210
    As I said, CAI. Why? so you don't make your engine breath hot air from inside your engine bay and cause power to drop after the engine gets hot.

    Dunlop SP9000 are nothing special. I'd buy the Goodyear's too.
  • ah i didnt see your post about that. yea, some ppl are telling me CAI some are tellin me short ram, donno what to do, each giving me logical reasons. for instance, if you got a cold air intake, and say its 80-100 degrees outside, the ground is going to be even hotter, your just going to be suckin up really hot air off the ground too, altho, if it aint hot out... i like where the stock intake goes too, its away from the engine, radiator and the ground, but its got more bends than it needs. if it was just like the short ram, but went that extra foot to where the stock intake is, would be perfect. lol, need someone to make me a custom intake.
  • Also, does anyone have 10w30 mobile 1 in there car? hows it run? or GM synchromesh for tranny fluid? heard it made for even easier shifting, and also fixed the problem the 06's had when shifting into 3rd, i plan on putting that in my car this weekend.
  • cz75cz75 Posts: 210
    I'm using Pennzoil synchromesh, but it's all made to the same GM spec. No more issues.
  • ah nice, thanks you very much
  • I was looking to buy hondas sports muffler, then they told me it was 400 bucks... did anyone buy there si with it already on it or has anyone put a different muffler on? hows it sound? i mean 400 bucks for a muffler?! i might as well buy a full cat-back system for like 150 more dollars, but to me it seems a pointless upgrade. i mean it might sound sexy, but really your splittin hairs performance wise... all the restrictions are really in the catalytic converter. so anyone got hondas or like dc's sport muffler? or if you got a cat-back system how you like it?
  • eldainoeldaino Posts: 1,618
    don't ever EVER just put a muffler on your car. Do the whole exhaust or do nothing, we don't need another car that could even be REMOTELY referred to as riced out.

    You posted your question in so many forums that i think you forgot where it was that i had responded to you. But its cool man!

    I still say short ram, as it will only suck up the same air that your stock intake did, but will give you more torque. CAI's are a bit overrated in my opinion, but the si really needs the torque, so why not?
  • lol yea, most of em got deleted so im guessing your response was deleted with it. Not all people read through every discussion like you and I :)
    Yea thats what i figured about the muffler, I really dont like at all the rusty chainsaw or weedwacker sound. I figured it would be a deeper sound in this car, But yea makes alot more sense to just get the whole package.
  • cz75cz75 Posts: 210
    The stock intake IS a CAI, as it DOES NOT draw in under-hood air, but takes it from inside the front fenderwell. The old ITR actually lost power when replaced with several aftermarket intakes, especially short rams. The type R used the same type of inside-the-fender set-up.
  • iomaticiomatic Posts: 48
    We're finding there's little or no gains with a CAI or exhaust on the Si (check the 8thcivic.com site).

    The best gains is derived from a race header; since the biggest bottleneck in the engine system currently is the catalytic converter, other than of course displacement and piston/valve/port/polish, i.e., serious engine work, and forced induction.

    If you removed the cat, of course, you'd be a polluting lametard.

    Small bolt-on gains include IMG, P2R gaskets + tb spacer, and pulleys; and again, the header. Unsprung weight reduction would help, and overall load reduction (battery, creature comforts, etc.)
  • cz75cz75 Posts: 210
    What about high-flow cats? Do they throw CELs?
  • iomaticiomatic Posts: 48
    I don't believe so. I think a defouler would help that situation, but man:

    environment > performance mods that sacrifice air quality on a daily driver, IMO.
  • cz75cz75 Posts: 210
    Maybe, but today's cars are cleaner than they've ever been and that's thanks to FI and engine management more so than the cat. Further, I believe that high-flow cats do pass emissions in most states. Additionally, it is older cars that cause the most pollution, something like 10% of vehicles cause 90% of automotive emissions.
  • iomaticiomatic Posts: 48
    Well, 100% of all autos cause 100% automotive emissions ... ;)

    Yeah, hi-flow cat, header would be a good power combo.

    And F.I. :)
  • eldainoeldaino Posts: 1,618
    and i'm pretty sure even honda stated that this was purely for aural quality? the air is not thAT much colder there; they just liked the way it resonated, it was very unique.
  • i know ive talked mentioned this a couple times, but im wondering how hard/easy it would be to accomplish. I think the stock intake is in the best place to suck up cool air, away from the radiator and the engine in the fender above the wheel. I just think it could be shorter. how hard do you think it would be just to use the same type of piping to go right from the airbox to the same spot. If you see theres room to go behind the battery to the exact same spot. It cant be a exactly straight piece, but it wont have 90 degree bends and would be very short, allowing free flowing air while being away from all the heat generators, including the ground. take a look, see what ya think :)
  • cz75cz75 Posts: 210
    Maybe not, but it isn't really that far from the outside temperature sensor, which is only off a few degrees from ambient on my car. The length and position of the Rube Goldberg intake piping is what gives the car its aural qualities. Honda could've bypassed all that crap and put the intake opening right where it is now with 4-5 feet less tubing.
  • cz75cz75 Posts: 210
    It would be easier to buy a new resonator for ~$50 and cut it up so the air comes in at the bottom, like the new Mugen intake does, retaining the stock box and filter and half the tubing.
  • kork13kork13 Posts: 90
    I'm looking for a somewhat thorough comparison of turbo's v. superchargers... I think I'm gonna get one of them at some time in the future (after the warranty runs out), but I really don't know anything about which way to go. I'm looking for info comparing cost, performance positives/negatives, any maintenance issues, ease of installation, how long it lasts, and such stuff like that. I'm really interested in it, just don't have the knowledge base for it. Thanks
  • eldainoeldaino Posts: 1,618
    while you can turbo pretty much anything honda, the higher comparison ratio's of certain k-series engines (like the one in your si) can over time, counteract its long term reliabiltiy. (the turbo and engine that is. this is the reason why a lot of guys like turboing the lower revving motors in the base integras of yore.)

    at any rate, a turbocharger will accentuate your honda's high rpm horsepower, and add torque across the line. a supercharger will give you greater low end thrust, while still adding some high end power. do a search on the internet and you will find plenty of companies who offer kits of the car.

    its interesting to note that a supercharger will yield comparable torque numbers to a turbocharger, but cost quite a bit more.
  • iomaticiomatic Posts: 48
    Go to the Forced Induction discussion at 8thcivic. You'll learn lots; friendly group-- much more mature than a lot of groups (vwvortex, honda-tech, etc.).

    Right now:

    GReddy Turbo
    AJP Turbo (unreliable customer service and reputation)

    CompTech supercharger
    CompTech Stage II to arrive soon
    RedShift supercharger (in pre-production)

    I think there's one more turbo; and a couple of 'off-brand' ones.

    Keep in mind that you'll need to add other parts specific to these mods (oil pan return, exhaust, fuel rail, et al. for turbo, etc.)

    I'd wait awhile for the market to settle.
  • who has tried 87 octane in their si and what were the results?
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    The Si has an engine with an 11.0:1 compression ratio, and as such, it is a very bad idea to run it on anything less than Premium fuel. While it may not happen immediately, the end result of running low AKI fuel in an engine with a compression ratio that high is burned valves and holed pistons.

    Said another way, if anybody was foolish enough to have actually tried running low grade fuel in their Si, they’d be even more foolish if they posted that fact on the internet. Why? Simple, word gets around, and if they try and have their engine repaired under warranty following an engine failure, and if Honda was to see the post, they'd be sunk. The fact is that Honda doesn't just "Recommend" Premium fuel, the "Require" it.

    Last but not least, here in the States it is all but impossible to buy 87 octane fuel at any gas station. The "87" on the pumps refers to the "Anti Knock Index" (AKI), an index that is an average of two different octane measuring formulas, hence the fact that your local pumps say "87 AKI" and not "87 octane". What you should be running is a minimum of 91 AKI in your Si motor.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • cz75cz75 Posts: 210
    You lose A) power and B) mileage, along with the consequences to reliability.
This discussion has been closed.