Infiniti I30 Electrical Issues

2kinfi2kinfi Member Posts: 8
i have a 2000 I30t infiniti. Can someone direct me to a possible fuse/fix? i accidentally cross/connect polarity and created short while trying to service my clock. Thank you in advance for your help


  • 2kinfi2kinfi Member Posts: 8
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    You could try cross-posting in our general Electronic Gremlins: Electrical Problems That Are Driving You Crazy discussion while you are waiting here. If anyone can help you there, come back here and let us know.
  • mcaylessmcayless Member Posts: 2
    The cruise control on my 1997 Infiniti I30 is starting to act up. Quite often, I cannot activate the control on the steering wheel. When I press the CC button nothing happens. However, I will press the button a short while later the cruise control will activate.

    After a few miles the cruise will deactivate itself.

    I would appreciate any thoughts on the matter?
  • hovai35hovai35 Member Posts: 3
    My 2002 I35, check engine light came on when I stop to buy gas. I had the engine running at the time ..yeah i know..but when i got back into the car the warning came on ...what did I do wrong and how to correct it please help thanks...
  • rvenkatrvenkat Member Posts: 22
    Well, it's got nothing to do with leaving your engine on at the gas station. But try to avoid that for far better reasons in the future (e.g. blowing up the place). It's most probably the O2 sensor. Expensive to repair but needs to be done if you have annual emission checks or if they are the ingress sensors into the engine. If they are the egress sensors, like mine, you can leave them alone and they won't harm the car or reduce fuel efficiency. I have mine 'on' for more than a year now. Other culprits include MAF sensors and bad ignition coils.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Much of the time a check engine light is triggered by not getting the gas cap tightly secured. You don't think filling up with the engine running might have tripped the sensor?
  • dellachdellach Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2004 Infiniti I35. My users manual said the radio was satellite ready with the proper equipment. I want to be able to control from my car stereo. I bought a Sirius Connect(model#SC-C1)-Vehicle Tuner for the radio. It's a sirius satellite antenna that connects directly into my car radio. Will this work for my model car? Do I need any other equipment? If it is installed will I get interference from my fm and am antenna? I look forward to your replies. Thank you.
  • mank1945mank1945 Member Posts: 1
    My infiniti i30 will not start...and when it does will not keep up.
    I have taken to to the luck.
    I have taken to my luck
    One thing that they have determined is that it sparks intermittently........but cannot find out why it will not start.
  • bigwwebbigwweb Member Posts: 5
    I dont know what i did and i must have did something when i tried to change the dome light. Both interior lights are not working, my remote wont lock or unlock the doors and the trunk unless the car is on. The windows and door locks also wont operate unless the car is on. The trunk and hood icons are on when the doors open and off when the doors are closed. what did i do to make this happen and how can i fix this?
  • kiddogokiddogo Member Posts: 14
    I have parked a 2003 I35 in a spare garage waiting for my 16 to pass his test. I replaced the battery last month and today when I took the car for its weekly drive through the neighborhood I tried to open the sunroof with the sliding switch--nothing happened. The tilt switch works and in fact if I keep pressing the tilt switch the sunroof opens and closes--appears to be the sliding switch. Should I pull the fuse or are there any other ideas?

    Thanks in advance
  • realtordaverealtordave Member Posts: 8
    Ok I had the same problem a few times ran the switch back and forth a few times and it ended up being fine? You got me but I must admit it's a much nicer car then I got at 16! Tell your kid not to use the sunroof!
  • kiddogokiddogo Member Posts: 14
    I agree with the comment. I learned that the sunroof motor needs to be reset after a battery change. I reset the motor and it works.
  • kkarhikkarhi Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2002 I35 with 68000 miles. I noticed the last several times I have filled up that the Distance To Empty meter does not reflect the fillup right away as I start the engine. The fuel gauge shows a full tank immediately, but the DTE meter starts up at the reading before the fillup, and then rolls up as I drive until it gets to the correct reading. This takes about 30 or 40 miles of driving. If I just run the engine but am not moving, the meter will not update.

    I talked to the dealer, but they say that this is normal and refuse to do anything about it. It is somewhat annoying, but I am really worried that it shows the meter is about to break. I had the same problem at about 30000 miles, and showed it to the dealer and they said the same thing then. Then the problem disappeared, but now it is back.

    Anyone else out there have a problem like this? Should I push the dealer?
  • jrstewart2jrstewart2 Member Posts: 2
    Hello again,
    I am new to the forum. 2002 I35 gold, 96K miles, Bay Area, CA. Two things 1) I throw my driver side window button to auto close. The window goes all the way up then back down to some mysterious preset opening setting. 2) I have a 18.7 miles per gallon reading (it never changes) which is a step change from the 21.5 and 20.8 I used to get a year and a half ago. Either the reading is wrong or gasoline formulation has changed. I worked at a Refinery from '84-'97. I love this forum!!
  • ksk2ksk2 Member Posts: 1
    Hello everyone, i need help to find out what is wrong with my radio. I was driving down the road and listening to music and the music stoped. Since yesterday. Its there anyone that can help me figure out what the problem is and also how to fix it. I do not know if its fuses or what and if its a fuse which of the fuse needs to charge. Thanks you all for reading and hope to find solution to this issue. Its 2001 I30 infinite.
  • chalengerchalenger Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem still looking to find out what is the cause. I think its the safety feature. When I roll it up the bang on it the window will stay up.
  • yuillryuillr Member Posts: 1
    How do I reset the sunroof motor?
  • RazzmatazzRazzmatazz Member Posts: 1
    I recently had the two front axles changed on my Infiniti I30. Immediately thereafter, my car would intermittantly shut off either upon deccelerating, stopping or turning. It would shut completely off for seconds, then all of the lights would come back on and I would have to turn over the ignition to get going again. I noticed this first the day that I had the axles changed. That evening, I was parked. I started the car and turned the wheel slightly to get ready to reverse and the car just clicked off. There was no warning or signs of any kind. The next time this happened was a few days later as I was coming to a stop, the car shut off then the lights came back on automatically five seconds later. I turned the car back on to continue driving. Last week I took the car auto zone to have the battery checked, and it gave a reading of 587 out of 585 (not quite sure the increments). The guy said more than likely I did not have battery trouble and that it could either be the grounding wires or something could have been miscalibrated when my axles were being changed. I drove the car from auto zone to work that day. I asked a co-worker about it. He said that if there was rust or corrosion around the battery terminals, that could cause the battery to stall. I poured coca cola on the terminals to clean them. The car started fine that evening. The very next morning, the car would not turn over. All of the lights came and the engine would make the cranking sound but it was stuttering. AAA came out and jumped the car off, and the engine turned over. My boyfriend took it back to auto zone and the same technician that inspected the battery previously recalled the car. He rechecked the battery and to his surprise found that it gave a reading of 197 out of 585. He said it was very strange for a battery to do that. He checked and found that alternator was ok. He checked the battery again and found that the charge dropped another one hundred points from five minutes earlier. He could not tell us why the batter was unstable. My boyfriend drove it home. Once he turned the engine off, the car would not start. Later that evening, six hours later, I tried to start the car and it turned over fine. I drove it to Infiniti and parked it in the service bay. The next day I had them service it. I recalled when they took my keys and drove the car around back, it started fine. Later that day, they called me to tell me the problem was fixed. That the last mechanic did not put the air flow meter in correctly and there was a stretched harnass. They tried to charge me 180.00 for the inspection and to correctly place what they thought was misplaced. When I arrived the next day to pick up my car, I asked for the results of the diagnostic they were trying to charge me for. He admitted that the tech did more of a visual inspection and he just put back into place somethings that looked out of place. He also showed me the results of the battery test showing a 585 charge. I asked why, then, did he try to charge me 116.00 for the inspection, and he did not give me an answer. But he was adamant that the problem had been identified and fixed and that the extra 60 dollars was for the service. As I began to sign papers and give payment, the technician came through the door and advised the car would not start and needed a jump. Apparently, the visual inspection was not enough to identify the problem and what they thought it was, was not. I was irate that Infiniti would try to pass the issue off as something that could be detected with a visual inspection and tried to take my money without haven even tried to determine the problem. I left the car with them to further service but I fear being screwed over by them. All I know is that my car has a problem that it did not have prior to my axles being replaced, though one may not have anything to do with the other. Infiniti also brought to my attention that all of the side parking lights on the vehicle were out, as were the side bumper lights. I already knew the front drive low beam was out, which had recently been replaced by a mechanic a few months back, but still did not work because he said the accuator (the part behind the bulb that gives it energy) was not working. The clock light in the interior is also out. I don't ever remember any of the smaller lights on the outside ever working. Again. I am not sure this has anything to do with the problem, but the issues with the light exist now and have existed prior to this problem. Does this sound like anything that anyone is familiar with?
  • atma97atma97 Member Posts: 47
    Your car battery symptom tells me that it is more than five year olds. If it is, the best choice is spending $100 for a good one from Sears: otive+Batteries
    before trying to figure out the problem. Good battery and alternator is the heart for the operation. When battery is bad, it acts along with weather such as dry and warm is good, and cold and humid is bad. That might explains why sometime you have good or bad reading of the battery.
    Side light bulbs could be easily replaced when you bring your car to an oil change. I would bring them to Walmart. They should not charge you more than $20 to perform the change since I can do all of them in less than ten minutes. Clock light bulbs have to be bought from a dealer. It is best if you ask the dealer to change it the next time you bring the car in for a service.
    If your car head light is an HID, then it needs to be replaced by a dealer as well. If the cost is too high, I would go to a Stereo/Alarm store to put on a pair of aftermarket HID light. They are very nice and can be bargained for less then $250 including installation. Ebay sells them as cheap as $50 a pair kit.
  • kiddogokiddogo Member Posts: 14
    Any, cd and cassette work fine but no lights on the unit screen,

    Thanks in advance!
  • autoplaceautoplace Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 I30 and after an electrical storm (don't know if this is related) my remote would not work -- the dome light does not work and the garage door opener will not work. I don't know how to fix this problem; is this your situation?

  • akosteckiakostecki Member Posts: 1
    Hello. I am having the exact same problem with my 99 i30 and I was wondering if you ever resolved this problem, and if so, HOW? It has an intermitted weak spark and will not start. I have replaced the computer and the knock sensor, and I have checked both crank sensors and the cam sensor and all fuses. Thanks for the help. Anthony
  • web34web34 Member Posts: 1
    the audio system on my 1996 I30 stopped working. If I disconnect and reconnect the battery it starts working again for a while then quits again. I can continue to disconnect and reconnect the battery to get it working, but I really would like to know what is causing this problem. Anyone have any ideas?
  • amylynnstubbsamylynnstubbs Member Posts: 3
    I have replaced the alternator and the battery. And the battery still won't stay charged. Has anyone had this problem and know the solution?? My car has been down since November and I have no idea but I need to get it fixed! asap!! Thanks
  • amylynnstubbsamylynnstubbs Member Posts: 3
    Battery won't stay charged. I got a new alternator and battery but it still won't work.any ideas????
  • jwvolsfanjwvolsfan Member Posts: 4
    I have been having similar problems since I had front axles replaced in January. Please let me know if you were able to resolve your problem.
  • jwvolsfanjwvolsfan Member Posts: 4
    I had both front axles replaced by a mechanic in Jan 09 for my 99 Infiniti I30. Since then I have begun having electrical problems--first anti locks brakes light on intermittent, now continuously; now turn signals or emergency flashers do not work (have grown from intermittent to inop). The alternator died and I had it replaced yesterday, but the turn signals or anti lock brakes still do not work. Any help resolving this one would be greatly appreciated.
  • shazishazi Member Posts: 1
    I have a 04 i 35, My radio, navigation and speedometer lights are not working, Its not the fuse. I had a mechanic perform diagnostic check on it, he advised that i need a cluster/speedometer. Please advise if abybody is familiar with this kind of problem
  • amylynnstubbsamylynnstubbs Member Posts: 3
    I will let you know if we find out what is wrong. my husband and father in-law have replaced the alternator and the battery and some of the light bulbs and checked the wires. They are very confused on what the problem is. They are supposed to be working on it sometime soon so if they figure it out i'll let you know. and if you find out please please please let me know!!! Thanks a bunch!
  • derekm99derekm99 Member Posts: 4
    The car out of nowhere lost all power while i was driving. i would press the gas and she wouldnt go over 500 rpm and acted like it was going to die. i iddled maybe 500 ft. and then died. abs/TC off/airbag, and a few other lights were on as well. had the car tested and they said i needed a new battery. just replaced the battery after having both the alternator and battery tested, alternator was fine, switched batteries, and was good. a week later i am having the same problem. Please some one help me out? what is going on?
  • blogengeezerblogengeezer Member Posts: 6
    Many cars with steering wheel mounted controls have mounted in the steering column, what the mechanics refer to as a 'clockspring'. It gets dirty connections or is possibly broken. Common to be broken during front axle repairs when steering wheel is turned too far. Websites show details on how to replace it.
  • blogengeezerblogengeezer Member Posts: 6
    Had this problem on another car after a heavy rainfall. The MAS air sensor mounted in the air cleaner housing, had apparently gotten wet. Removed it, sprayed it clean with electronic cleaner, let it dry, and replaced it. No more trouble.
  • blogengeezerblogengeezer Member Posts: 6
    No fuse labled as 'dash lights' in either fuse box. All sub-miniature fuses test good continuity. Gear position indicator and center console illumination is still operable. Called Infinity dealer, as fuse box cover said. Estimated diagnose cost at $100. Possibly will have to order a module pack of some sort for $?????. Any other suggestions? Dealer is very busy and can not look at until next week. 44 K milies on otherwise nice driving car.
  • atma97atma97 Member Posts: 47
    It might be a dimmer control knob located behind the steering wheel. I only have I35, QX4 and Altima but all of them have this switch. Sometimes my wife accidently turned it off and the dash board light really went out.
  • jeh255jeh255 Member Posts: 4
    Had this problem for the last few years. At 50m all electric went.Expensive alternator, battery, towing, etc. Then around 55m sometimes just the check engine light, sometimes the check engine, skid, abs, etc. Each time I was lucky and after restarting the engine, sometimes a few times, eventually the rough idle would stop and the engine would seem normal. Lights would stay on. The dealer told me it was the ignition sensors. Infiniti and Nissan know about this issue, but the dealer told me that it would be apx. $1800 to fix this as there is one in each cylinder and they suggested doing all 6 of them. After putting this repair off I decided to take it to a local mechanic that I've come to trust. He ran diagnostics, ID'd the specific sensor having the problem and replaced it for apx $200. I have put on 3000 miles since repair and car runs better than it has in years. '00 I30 65,000 mi.
  • lori925lori925 Member Posts: 12
    Hey there, When you say that you replaced the computer, do you mean the ECM? I think my ECM circuit board has damage from a faulty Idle air control valve, and I was wondering how you handled changing out the computer. Is is super expensive? Did you get a re-manufactured ECM or did you order the part from infiniti? My vehicle is a 1996 I-30 and she keeps stalling on me intermittenly. Changing out the IACV gave me three weeks of bliss when she drove perfectly without stalling and very smooth. This past weekend, she is acting up again, running rough and stalling. I am bummed and not sure what to do...please help:)
  • godiswatchingodiswatchin Member Posts: 2
    Who did you take it to? Was it in San Antonio, TX?
  • godiswatchingodiswatchin Member Posts: 2
    Where did you take it to and what was the issue. I had this happen to my car, today.
  • aspg57aspg57 Member Posts: 1
    My 2002 has almost 122,000 miles on it. The radio now works intermittantly. If I touch the power button or change the volume on the dial it will stop playing for hours or days. It still works from the steering wheel though. The display turns on and off intermittantly as well. I tried to get an aftermarket radio but I was told there was no fit kit for this car. Dealer want $3000 to replace. Any suggestions?
  • blogengeezerblogengeezer Member Posts: 6
    edited March 2010
    Re: 2000 I-30 instrument panel lights out. Crown Coachworks in Albuquerque NM fixed it. 505-344-1040 ask for 'RED'
  • em4keepsem4keeps Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever get this fixed?
  • zaq1zaq1 Member Posts: 1
    I've had similar problems (intermittent stereo power; occasional dead battery: parasitic draw) until the stereo gave up entirely. The new battery continued to suffer parasitic drain & if left parked for a few days was dead. The parasitic drain seems to be from the stereo which had a bad circuit board that eventually toasted itself (no fuse ever blew). I've replaced the stereo with one from an auto wrecker - twice so far - 1st one only the cassette worked; 2nd one works, but has no lights on the display panel.

    The parasitic draw has been a problem for years - 3 new batteries have been replaced in 7 years (on the 4th now). Stereo problems seem to be common in Nissans. See also the Infinity I35 Electrical Issues Forum for a discussion on these problems.

    Let me know if you learn more about these symptoms and solutions.
  • blackgnturboblackgnturbo Member Posts: 1
    bought this i30 and everythigs been going well< till 2 weeks ago, i auto rolled up the window n the window rolled 5 inches down! everytime! the only way to close the window is if i hold it up then lock the windows! then i can unlock window and it will be fine! is there a way to reset the window like a sunroof?

    also the check engine light came on! knock sensor bank 1 and cat bank 1! after clearing code it came back on with cat bank 1 and bank 2! cleared that code and light came back on with cat bank 1 and knock sensor bank 1!
    the car has 62k miles! do i start with the knock sensor or just buy everything?

    i cant use high octaine or injector cleaner to clean cat can I?

    thanks :confuse: :lemon:
    [email protected]
  • jwalesjwales Member Posts: 1
    2001 I30 with 150K miles. at first, after the cruise was engaged and then you had to brake, when you pressed the resume button the "set" light would blink intermittently but the vehicle would not resume speed. Once you turned the vehicle off and restarted it, the cruise worked fine for a time, then the above situation would occur again. Now the cruise will not engage period and the dash panel cruise lights don't light up at all. Has anyone experienced this? If so, what is the fix? thanks....
  • reddy2rollreddy2roll Member Posts: 1
    I resolved this exact problem with a used radio from an autowreckers. The parasitic draw was so low it was undectable at the battery or the fusebox, but would drain the battery in about 7 - 10 days if left parked and kill a battery in less than 2 yrs. The replacement radio would not light up after 2 different tries, but who cares - it's all good/bad depending on your mood anyway
  • jude63jude63 Member Posts: 1
    My passenger side low beam h/light is out and I am told its not the bulb. I want to buy a complete replacement ballast and igniter control but don't know if I should get the one plug or two plug? How do I tell which of the two types I need? This is the type of assembly that is currently in my car. Thanks much for your help. ID-Igniter-Control-Unit-/200609640193#vi-content
  • tonyirltonyirl Member Posts: 1
    edited January 2012
    I was installing a new bulb into my front dome light. Somehow after I installed the light my door locks, key less remote and interior lights are all not working. I've tested every fuse in the car including the one fuse box under the steering column, the one under the hood next to the battery and also checked all the relays. Every fuse has charge and cant figure out what else it could be?!! PLEASE HELP ME!
  • viper2681viper2681 Member Posts: 3
    Mine is doing the same thing at the moment took it to Advance auto for diagnostic possilbe cause was Vehicle speed sensor open or short circuit condition poor electrical connection or faulty vehicle speed sensor
  • viper2681viper2681 Member Posts: 3
    Mine came on after I got gas but I found out later it was because I had put low grade gas in it which caused a knock sensor code put in some Octane boost and it went away if that doesn't work you could try and unhook battery for about 24 hours and reconnect that may get rid of it
  • viper2681viper2681 Member Posts: 3
    Does anyone know where the speed sensor is located on a 1997 Infinity I30?
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