Chrysler T&C EGR Valve

boroarkeboroarke Posts: 5
edited March 2014 in Chrysler
I hope someone can give me some clues as to where the EGR valve is located on our 05 town & country. I have been looking and looking and looking and can't find it. I have seen pictures of what they are supposed to look like but for the life of me, see nothing under the hood that even comes close to looking like it. Anyone know where it's hiding?

Thanks in advance for the help!


  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    As I understand it, not all vans have EGR (I'm thinking but don't know for sure that EGR is limited to the CARB and CARB wannabe states). That said, I just replaced the head gaskets on our 3.8 liter 1998 Grand Caravan (different generation and engine layout) and the EGR was plumbed into the intake system just behind the throttle butterfly. You might want to take a peek there to see if there is a dime sized pipe running up there from the rear exhaust manifold.

    Best Regards,
  • boroarkeboroarke Posts: 5
    Can anyone confirm if the 2005 Chrysler T&C 3.3 has a EGR valve??

  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    I can confirm that some 2005 T&Cs have an EGR valve. Like I said in my previous post, it most likely depends upon how the van was ordered (i.e. which emissions region it was ordered for).
  • gary53gary53 Posts: 1
    By now you have probably found your EGR valve! But here is some help. Your van no doubt has a 3.8 ltre engine as mine does. The EGR valve is in very plain view just above the alternator on the left side (actually the front of the engine as it is mounted sideways) It has an aluminum tube attached to it as well as an electrical connection. It is very easy to access and change. I just did mine. It requires that you remove 4 bolts, remove it and then bolt on the new one. Yes, you will have to remove the electrical connection as well. There is a small red clip on the electrical connection that locks the connection. Just slide it to the right and wiggle the connection (plug) off. The only issue I had was the one bolt on the bottom of the EGR is a little awkward to get a socket on. I removed the one top bolt on the alternator mount and budge the alternator toward the front of the vehicle just a few millimeters which made it possible to get my socket on the lower EGR bolt. The whole process took under 30 min. It is very simple! When I went to the dealer to get a new EGR valve they wanted my VIN number as there is more than one EGR valve to chose from depending on the VIN of the vehicle. I had no luck trying to obtain an aftermarket EGR so had to purchase from the dealer which of course is usually more expensive. Don't forget the small gasket (fiber) The larger metal gasket was included with the EGR valve. Hope this helps!
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    Your advice is very well stated, and hopefully it will be used by someone else in the future. Regarding boroarke's situation, he showed up on a different site where it was ultimately determined that he doesn't have an EGR valve on his van.

    Best Regards,
  • Karen_SKaren_S Posts: 5,092
    This would be great as a guide on CarSpace. You can copy/paste the majority of what you have here. Go here to get started and send me an email if you need assistance.
  • lvrlpslvrlps Posts: 1
    I had my check engine light come on today right after filling my gas tank. I had it diagnosed and was told it was the egr valve. Is this difficult to change on this particular engine and can I get a diagram for this and try to attempt it myself. I am a single parent, mom and live on a limited income and can't afford for my car to be out of commission that long as I commute 60 or so miles a day for work and well can't afford a high repair bill as well. Thank you Vicki
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    On the scale of 1 to 10 for automotive repairs, the EGR on the 2005 vintage vans is about a 2. The valve is easy to get to and other than some (likely) difficult bolts to extract due to corrosion, the job shouldn't take more than an hour or so even for someone who hasn't done it before.

    Best Regards,
  • jdthornjdthorn Posts: 1
    I just had the same problem. I had to give my VIN to the dodge dealership to get the correct EGR valve. It cost me about $80.

    I had to loosen 2 bolts and remove one on the alternator, then remove the belt in order to get to that last bottom bolt on the EGR valve. It took me much longer. So I guess if you are inexperienced like me it might be harder than that. Then I had to remove the plastic shroud underneath to get the belt back on - breaking one of those plastic clips in the process. I also needed another person to slip the belt back on when I pulled back the tensioner. I bought a pack of plastic clips for $4 or so and snapped that back on. It took me a while. But thanks to your great desciption it is done and working fine. Maybe I made it harder than it needed to be. But I really am not experienced at this. I was able to get it done however. So, thank you very much. Your comments were very helpful and gave me the confidence to try this myself.
  • boroarkeboroarke Posts: 5
    Actually Shipo, you were incorrect. My van did in fact have an EGR valve and replaced it and all is well.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,148
    Interesting, IIRC, you had been unable to identify the EGR plumbing and had made at least a few statements that seemed to indicate that your engine was devoid of the EGR system. Hmmm, so either I have you confused with someone else, or something change. Yes, no?

    Best Regards,
  • lakeg41lakeg41 Posts: 9
  • mlmalermlmaler Posts: 1
    With onboard diagnostics why would it take 2.5 hours to test and replace the upstream oxygen sensor upon a "check engine light".

    This is also the 2nd time I have had to replace it and I only have 64,000 km on it, although it is a 2001.

  • krl2krl2 Posts: 5
    Your info regarding egr on 05 t&c will be most helpful to me. Dealer quote to replace it is $498.00. Totally out of the question.... I found original mopar part from company in Houston, Tx. for $ 64.00 plus 3.00 for gasket & 5.00 shipping. Because of your instructions, I will attempt this myself this Saturday. Wish me LUCK !!!! ( Van has 49,000 miles )
  • gary53, very nice email explaining how to replace egr. My only question is if I remove top bolt on alternator won't it want to jump out of place due the tension on the belt? Thanks.....
  • This did not work out well for me either. Could not get at the bottom bolt on EGR. Tensioner was frozen (not sure how to release it, I turned the bolt on the tensioner end (not the pulley) as I saw a reference to it on the web, to turn it clockwise to release tension, bolt broke). So EGR is still in and I'm worse off then before. Funny thing is I work on old cars for a hobby, can pull motors, tear down and rebuild all manner of things, this job was a SNAFU. I need a book on it I guess. I probably was working on the wrong tensioner part?
  • I was trying to figure out how to get to the bottom bolt too. Finally got there by removing the tube off the top of the EGR, loosening the bottom bolt then removed the top bolt, I was then able to tilt the egr back which made it easier to get to the bottom bolt. I loosened it as much as I could with a 1/4 drive 10MM socket then when the socket bumped up against the alternator I used a pair of needle nose pliers to finish removing the bottom bolt. Now the bolt that held the tube on that broke off is a whole nuther story, dealer wanted $17 for one bolt, I left and found ACE hardware had the bolt I needed for 55 cents.
  • sirgmasirgma Posts: 1
    If you will use a 8 mm 1/4" drive socket with a 2 inch extention for the tube going into the the valve cover, and a 10mm 1/4" drive socket with a 2" extention for the egr valve bolts, you wont have to remove anything. 10 min job to replace with these tools.
  • cuegfcuegf Posts: 1
    OK the dealership quoted the EGR valve replacement at over $400, after chatting with co-workers and doing searchs around the web I decided to take this on. I have NO automotive experience but figured I could do this. I purchased the part at for about $80. The EGR part number is on the black front part facing you and away from the engine, hard to see but was able to make it out. You need this number to order the part.

    I used sirgma's advice above and advice I received from another poster on another site (can't remember) but you unscrew the tube screws (2) from the top, then unscrew the top screw on the side of the EGR with an extender. Then carefully pry the EGR back towards the engine very gently, once it moved I was able to tap it back a bit further which not only loosened the bottom screw but made it a bit easier to get to with an extender. Then I put everything back on in opposite order, bottom side screw with the EGR pushed back almost tight then I moved it into place and got everything buttoned up. Worked like a charm, I did it in under an hour with crappy tools. Thanks everyone!!
  • cbwilshacbwilsha Posts: 70
    Bravo! And saved $320.

  • jdcar2jdcar2 Posts: 3
    Thank you every one for all the useful info. I feel as though I am ready to try and replace my egr valve, one question though. (History is that my engine light went on and my mechanic said code stated egr valve needed replacement, cost to me approx. 250$ for parts and labor). I was told from a third party that replacing the egr valve with a new one will not turn off my engine light and that I will need to take van to dealer and pay them to reset code to turn off engine light . Is this correct. I thought brain module would resend signal and reset itself automatically. Excuse my terminology as I am not sure of proper terms. Any reply would be greatly appreciated.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 14,708
    The code will clear after about 40 cycles without a recurrence, or you can use a code reader (these cost between $80 and $150, depending on what you get) to pull the set codes and reset. One or two uses of this device (rather than taking to a dealer) and it will pay for itself. ;)
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • thanks you very much for the info. I appreciate your time very very much.
    any thoughts on dealer egr valve versus auto zone parts store egr valve. Auto Zone is 55$ cheaper but I know some people think dealer parts function better. With weather warming up slightly here in the northeast I am gearing up to trying to replace this thing now that you have empowered me with the knowledge LOL
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 14,708
    Often times these parts have the same manufacturer and the only difference in price is the source. I purchased a new fuel filter for my van in August and spent $250 on it; I could get the same part off (of all places) for almost $100 less. Unfortunately, I just did not have the time (or so I thought) at the time to wait on the ordered part. I got a whopping one week of use out of the van before an electrical gremlin destroyed its reliability. *sigh* Live and learn.... or just live. :D
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • jdcar2jdcar2 Posts: 3
    Thank you everyone for your help. Dealer part was only about 10$ more expensive than some of the auto part store prices. Paid $118 for dealer egr valve with option code xzz, which I was told my particular van has that option code. Some of the auto part stores did not specify that, so I played it safe with dealer part made for my van. Did job in about 1/2 an hour. Hardest part was that bottom bolt, which needed to be taken out with needle nose pliers after it was loosened. Engine light is out now, and I just got my inspection sticker and passed all emissions tests. I'm good to go!!
    Thanks again!!
  • mrmom31mrmom31 Posts: 1
    At 57K my `06 T&C with 3.8 ltr began hesitating intermittantly. Then flashed the check engine light. Checked with pocket scanner & got code P0404 and determined it was the EGR Control Circuit Range/Performance. Surfed between here and Dodge Forum and decided to buy the part from NAPA for $79 - but they only had one option (?) Followed the install instrux in this thread, and was done in :20 mins. Also used a 1/4" universal socket adapter and a piece of 3/4" black iron pipe to gain leverage on the 1/4" drive. Cleared code manually with scanner. Will report back if problem continues and/or CE light returns. Thanks for the advice and the $avings.
  • Anyone have a problem with power door locks that stopped working?
  • This looks like a great site for repair help. I am getting code PO404. I think I have located the EGR valve on my 3.8L . It is on the drivers side rear bank near the spark plug wire distribution connections. I don't want to break anything but I can't get the electrical connector off. I did slide the red lock tab to the right. The connector should just pull that correct ? or are there more locking devices on this connector ?
  • I called a garage after my "check engine soon" light came on. I asked them what is meant and they said we will charge you $130 for a diagnostic and then the cost of parts and repair. I went to autozone and they tested it for free and got code PO 400 which is for EGR valve. They said they has one and it was $120 and I could put it in myself with littke mechanical skills. I called garage and asked them hypothetically if it was a EGR valve what would I be looking at turn key. He said $130 for diagnostic, $229 for ERG and $80 for installation. Total $439.00. I went back to auto zone with my tools and bought the part, put it in, and even had them confirm that the diaphram was bad. They reset my engine light and I put 100 miles on and then got my inspection sticker. I saved $319 and, as I had a free oil change coupon from the first garage, got my oil done for free. He noticed the new inspection sticker and the new EGR and asked why I didn't have them do it. I explained that I did it myself and saved $319 and thanked him for the free oil change!!! He was pissed...imagine that! :D:):)
  • How do you reset the light? I never did swap mine out. It supposedly doesn't effect much (I haven't noticed) it's been about 3 years since it came on. I should probably swap it out though.
  • Full procedure how to reset oil service light Chrysler Town and Country. If you like to reset any maintenance oil light after an oil change. Or reset check engine light, airbag light, inspection key or insp errors when maint reqd, for Chrysler cars. Or any warning light for service reminder which appears on the display.

    Info pictures whit the steps
  • joef123joef123 Posts: 2
    I have the exact same issue as post #30 on this- as Dsurek on this same vehicle -how do you disconnect the connetor from the EGR valve- I also slid the red tab to the right to disengage, but the connector still seems quite stuck - anyone have a suggestion or a video that shows this
  • dsurekdsurek Posts: 2
    edited April 2013
    I have replaced my EGR valve myself. It is difficult to get one because it is a dealer only item ($94). Places like NAPA may have a listing but soon find they can't get it. When I slid the red tab to the right this time, it came out and the plug almost came off by itself. Leave the pipe connected to the EGR vale. Remove the screws for the pipe in the valve cover and a hold down bolt from the pipe bracket. Pull out the 3 rear plug wires and brake vacuum hose out of the area. I also disconnected the negative battery cable and put a rag over the positive. Remove the two bolts holding the EGR valve and remove the valve and pipe at the same time. Now it is easy to remove the pipe from the EGR and put it on the new EGR with a new gasket. First I spayed some cleaner through the pipe and wiped out the gunk as best i could. I put some compressed air through it to blow out any debris. Clean up the area where the new EGR will mount and install with the new metal gasket. Put the three rear plug wires #1,3,5 back on. Put the power brake vacuum hose back on. Put the connector and red tab back on. Buy or borrow a scan tool to erase the code and that's it. So far, so good, no codes coming up. It was about a 2 hour (three beer) job.
  • joef123joef123 Posts: 2
    HI Dsurek
    Thanks for the reply - I figured out the connector and I have a 2009 van - I think the EGR valve got rotated 180 in the 2009, as it is on the drivers side and I see one bolt that will be a challenge, but I think accessible with a universal joint - I also found several sources online for the 2009 EGR valve, and it was about $85 shipped to my door - I would agree - it looks like a 2-3 hour job for a Saturday afternoon - I have sprayed all the bolts with PB blaster already for it to have a few days to make the bolts easier to come off in a few days when the part arrives -

    Thanks for the reply
  • aubrickaubrick Posts: 1
    What sensors have input to controlling the EGR valve operation?
    Van missfires/surges on flat roads under high vacuum and spark advance conditions, when barely "off throttle." It's so bad, we don't drive van on flat interstate highways; only secondary hilly roads when this problem isn't noticeable.
    -Disconnected EGR valve and symptoms disappeared
    -Replaced EGR valve, solenoid, etc. with new assembly and rehooked and symptoms returned.
    -Disconnected EGR valve and symptoms disappeared
    Problem must be with something giving input to the main computer controlling the EGR valve.

    Any suggestions on a sensor or controller that could be bad?

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