Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions



  • lok888lok888 BostonPosts: 1,788
    samir & rogman - Thanks. My friend's '02 Camry LE V6 (nearly 20K miles) has the similar experience when doing incline lately. He first stepped on the gas and feel nothing happen. Then RMP slightly goes up and back to normal. We first thought the air filter, lower gasoline grade (87 octane for V6??), A/C pump on, etc. He will bring it to the dealer before the factory warranty expires in months. We hope it is about the transmission re programming. On the other hand, my wife's '03 Camry SE (4 cyl) exactly one year ago. It has over 6000 miles (drive locally) with no problem or issue, except the light steering at highway speed.

    samir - I bought a Kia Sorento before buying the Camry for my wife. My Kia service people have been great. They offered me a rental at no charge in several minor problems which required few labor hours. And the people in Kia Consumer Affairs have been helpful to me in resolving some issues.
  • qibbleqibble Posts: 26
    Thanks for the info paul29

    I was told that my sensor had gone or going but the Toyota service people were asking over 600 bucks to do the service. Could you tell which sites would carry the part? And I'll try to get someone to install it for me.
  • paperboy1paperboy1 Posts: 3
    Well, just an update. My daughters dealer took the car immediately and made the repairs to the left pull on the spot. The car drives straighter than straight now. Their digital allignment machine was down, so they called Midas and made an appointment (paid for of course) so all final adjustments can be made. They also gave my daughter another Camry to use while repairs were being made. Oh yeah, lunch was on them also.
    So, as far as our dealership goes, they are top notch. The only problem I have is, you would think after years of this defect, they (Toyota) would build the fix in!
  • adamprattadampratt Posts: 6
    Hey folks,

    Can anybody offer advice on this?

    Vehicle details:

    97 Camry LE, 100,000 miles, interior VERY clean, exterior has several chips and small scratches, just had struts, oil pan, and a few others things replaced in March for $1500. KBB says it's worth about $4500 in a private sale.

    Repair Decision:
    Dealer says the rattle in the engine compartment is a broken engine mount that needs replaced. I guess it some sort of support bar and the under mountings and they qouted me about $1700. I choked and they offered 20% off which knocks it down to about $1350.

    Other Factors:
    I don't drive the car much anymore and the vlue is pretty low so I'm hesitant to put any more money into it. On the other hand, the dealer said the car won't even pass emissions with this problem which puts me in a real bind.

    1. Is their estimate reasonable or should I take the car somewhere else to have the repair done for a better price?
    2. Should I just live with the rattle until it either dies or fails state inspection and then junk it?
    3. Should I suck it up, do the $1350 repair, and hope for more years of driving?

  • andy71andy71 Posts: 96
    Do you know any good independent mechanic? If you do try getting an estimate from them. I usually don't take my cars to the dealers for maintenance purpose after 75,000 miles. My 95 Camry has been serviced by an independent mechanic for last 3 years. I am extremely pleased with his services. My 95 Camry had a gasket leak at 105,000 miles about 6 months ago. The dealer's estimate was $1345 so I took it to this mechanic who was referred to me by colleague. His estimate was $429 parts and labors. That is a huge difference in price.
  • lok888lok888 BostonPosts: 1,788
    Answers: (I hope)

    1. Get a second estimate from other dealers or repair shops. Dealers will find ways to maximize their profits for employees' salaries and other operation expenses.

    2. I am sure you can fix it for less at some independent repair shops with ASE trained techs.

    3. It depends how long you wish to the keep plus possible future maintenance & repair costs. I was lucky to sell my '93 Accord with 100K miles (well maintained) last year I used the money as a down payment for a new car. I was tired of maintenance and repair cost.
  • paul29paul29 Posts: 178
    When I gave you the price on the sensor I showed the max it could be I did not check where you were and gave you a price on a California spec vehicle . I see you are in NY and if it is a non-Cal spec vehicle the price runs about $106 . I would double check with the dealer to make sure it is the O2 sensor you need ( $600 ? ) and which one , before or after the cat. Try ( very fast shipping) not endorsing but have purchased there and there are others Pep boys , Napa etc . You will see the OEM type which have the proper plug or a universal type which you wire in or transfer your existing plug to the sensor wires.
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Posts: 934
    in my case it is not the converter...if I hit that litle shelf area above the radio by the clock the buzzing noize goes away...for a while.
  • valvalvalval Posts: 6
    Hello! Sure hope someone can help us out here! My sister has two intermittent probs that are driving her crazy, and making her car unsafe.
    1. Key will not turn in ignition until she forces the steering wheel back and forth multiple times.This happens about 70% of the time.
    2. Drivers window goes down and sometimes will not go back up. No motor sound. If she keeps trying the switch, it eventually works. This happens about once a week.
    Both problems started in the last 6 months or so. Thank you for any help you can give.
  • in regard to:

    1. Key will not turn in ignition until she forces the steering wheel back and forth multiple times.This happens about 70% of the time.

    most vehicles have steering wheel lock mechanism where if you removed the key and turned the steering wheel, the steering wheel will be locked, i believe the inserted ignition key won't turn either, unless you insert key and turn the steering wheel at once to disable steering wheel and allow ignition key turn to acc or on.
  • lok888lok888 BostonPosts: 1,788
    rogman, samir and jonintheoaks - I learned more about the gear shifting on my friend's Camry. Again, he has a 2002 Camry LE V6 with 19500+ miles. I drove his car Friday for the time. The car suddenly upshifted when accelerate on flat road surface or slow incline from a full stop. It is even worst when I drove the car today. The car seems losing power when I was taking off. I felt I was driving an old Mercedes diesel car. The car isn't moving much when I first stepped the gas padel., like the car is in "N". The car then suddenly upshifted when hitting the gas really hard. My friend takes good care of the car and replaced air filter a week ago. It sounds like a transmission problem which requires programming like some mentioned before. I suggest him to bring this to the dealer's attention.
  • valvalvalval Posts: 6
    Thank you! But she has to really struggle turning the wheel back and forth. This morning it took her ten minutes of twisting the wheel before the key would turn. She's had the car since '97 and this problem has just started in the last 6 months or so.
  • zheka78zheka78 Posts: 4
    I have a '97 Camry LE. Last year I changed front and rear brakes including pads and rotors/drums. Recently I noticed that the brakes seem to engage when the brake pedal is right near the floor. Also the car seems unwilling to stop and I am afraid that during emergency braking I would have to push the pedal all the way against the floor and it might be not enough.
    Has anyone experienced this? Does anyone have any ideas on the cause and/or the cure.

    Responses are appreciated.
    Thank you.
  • jbkennedyjbkennedy Posts: 70

    I have a '97 LE also with the same exact problem with the driver's side power window. Mine is less frequent (every couple of weeks) but very annoying. I have not had it looked at yet.
  • valvalvalval Posts: 6
    Her window problem was infrequent for the first few months. Anyway, she's taking it to Toyota in the morning - I'll let you know what they have to do.
  • peter panpeter pan Posts: 75
    Recently I revved th eengine up to 5000 RPM when the red ALT light lit. I replaced the alternator. It was charging OK. When the engine is off for a few hours, the (new) battery is completely drained. I disconnected the 2 connectors at the alternator, the battery is still drained. All fuses are OK. The starter had been replaced a few weeks before.
    Has anyone encountered this problem and had was able to repair it? Appreciate your advices.
  • peter panpeter pan Posts: 75
    Check the rubber ventilation line in the back of gas tank. It is clamped to the tank and most likely has a loose connection which drips gas, especially when the tank is full, or on cold days when the gas pump delivers more gas to the fuel injector, thereby having more gas on the return line.
    This problem could create a fire hazard if you are not careful.
  • peter panpeter pan Posts: 75
    I am having a similar problem with a 89 Camry with 250K miles on it without any problem. After replacing the alternator, the car completely drained the battery with the engine off. I disconnected the alternator but the car still drained the battery, which suggested that something else is draining the battery, not the new alternator. How did you solve your problem?
  • peter panpeter pan Posts: 75
    When the engine is hot, metals expand and the worn teeth on the fly wheel are probably stuck on the new gears on the new starter. When it is stuck, the engine will not crank. When the engine cools down, the starter ususually retracts the solenoids and it would start again.

    You could knock sharply on the starter with the lug wrench. The solenoid would be pulled back. A permanent solution would be to replace the flywheel so the gears would mesh better.
  • rogmanrogman Posts: 24
    Sure sounds like a trans problem, but it must fail at the dealership before they will fix. The problem is a little different than mine, but they could all be trans related. Please let us know how it turns out.
  • lok888lok888 BostonPosts: 1,788
    I suggested my friend to bring his car to dealer. Isn't it (transmission) cover by the 5 years or 60000 miles powertrain warranty? My friend afraid any experience repair before the basic warranty expires by August/September.

    Yes. His case is different than yours. His car has almost no power when accelerate like hitting the gas in "N" gear or driving an old diesel car in cold morning without warm up. But it is fine once the car is in motion. I will let you know the outcome. And perhaps he will need the extended warranty if he intends to keep the car for long.
  • typesixtypesix Posts: 320
    Have you checked or have someone check to make sure rear drum brakes are properly adjusted? Using the handbrake when parking is supposed to adjust for the slack(gap) caused by wear. Check owner's manual for how many clicks one should feel when applying the handbrake.
  • joescarjoescar Posts: 30
    The car is supposed to upshift, isn't it? So what's the porblem? Also, it's supposed to downshift when going downhill with the brakes applied. That's the logic computer telling the car to provide motor breaking when benificial. Joe
  • rogmanrogman Posts: 24
    The trans should be covered under the 60/60 warranty. Thats 60 months or 60,000 miles. Maybe your friend will be lucky and get a whole new trans put in. Please keep us posted.
  • lok888lok888 BostonPosts: 1,788
    What's the problem? I am too want to know. And I know car is supposed to upshift. I know well about the shifting think. The problem (not benefit!!) which my friend is going to raise to his dealer is lose power when accelerate and sudden upshift. Imagine you step on the gas in "N" gear or driving an old diesel car.
  • lok888lok888 BostonPosts: 1,788
    Thanks for listening. I hope it will be a simple transmission re-programming. I will keep you update.

    Anyone know who responsible for TSBs when the factory warranty expires? I know manufacturers will not notify car owners when TSB occurs (can be found at NHTSA site), only recalls.
  • cam2003cam2003 Posts: 131
    I have not tried out the 4cyl A4 but V6 A5 transmission is not smooth at all. It's annoy for stop and go traffic for A5 transmission. It would be better put in L3 in this situation.
    Has any one brought the car to dealer(s)regarding this problem and they fixed successfully ?
  • hank2hank2 Posts: 75
    I'm not positive about your description, but I had a problem that was kind of similar. I got my Master Key and got a new key made at the local hardware store for a few bucks.

    Some Camry keys have a little nub that can wear off after 3 - 5 years, resulting in the symptoms you described. If you don't have the untouched Master key, the dealer can get a new key from the key number that you got with the car.

    Let us know if that helps.

    - Hank2
  • Hi,

    I too have similar problems with LE v6 04 A5. Car lacks pickup when starting from a stop. I feel that my Honda Civic had more power than V6 Camry. Gears upshift without giving needed acceleration to the car. I took my car to the toyota dealer and he did a road test and said there is no problem. I am not convinced with him.
  • cam2003cam2003 Posts: 131
    If there is no TSB for this problem, 99% that dealer would refuse to recognize it. My car is LE V6 as well. I wonder if any one with XLE V6 has the same problem ?
This discussion has been closed.