Toyota Prius Electrical and Lighting Questions

boraboraborabora Member Posts: 16
i have a 2007 prius, after my trip outside town for 2 weeks, the 12v battery went dead. this has happened twice. The dealer said that it is usual. the only solution is to unplug the battery before and it will take about 1/2 hrs to do so.

is that right?


  • birgerbirger Member Posts: 80

    We're very near to deciding on getting a Prius. In Europe, the vehicle does not have HID headlights, not even as an option. Having had a positive experience retrofitting OEM HID headlights to a Mercedes ML, I would like to know if any US owners have been down that road, and if they could share their experiences.

    On the ML, with the help of a couple of "pigtail adapters" ist was a plug&play operation, and the result was absolutely stunning.

    TIA for your feedback.

  • railroadjamesrailroadjames Member Posts: 560
    Just passing along some info about headlight (bulbs)...I recently noticed a driver's side headlight out on my 3 yr old '04 Prius. When I went to purchase a replacement (BULB) I had several selections to pick from (cost ranging from $8.00- $22.00). I selected a lower priced bulb and went home to my garage and attempted to change the bulb myself(as I had done so many times B/4 in many of my other past cars). Unfortunitly what a task I had B/4 me. Upon opening the hood I realized the opening behind the headlite assembly is next to impossible. I removed the cover to a module just behind the headlite and tried again to get to the bulb unsuccessfully. Then I called "TOYOTA" for help at the dealership. They explained I had to turn a rubber cover & pull out that cover and release a wire clip and then turn bulb to remove. I tried and tried to no avail and finally took it to the dealer who(thank God) let a mechanic show me how it's done. It still took 15-20 minutes to get it done. While he did the miracle job he pointed out that some of the "Celica" modules are even harder to replace requiring that the bumper has to be dismounted to replace a bulb. I guess I'm lucky by comparison. Anyway...Thats that! Live & Learn. I hope no one has to deal with a bad bulb. As for Toyota...Does it have to be so darn hard to do what use to be a snap.
  • ck90211ck90211 Member Posts: 159
    I tried to install a HID kit (light, ballast, transformer, etc.) into a 2007 Prius, and for some reason could not get it to work. That's after testing all electrical connections with a voltmeter and things. So I for one would raise a white flag on such project. The standard lights are not too bad, so you won't gain much visibility using HID, especially if you get the hot (blue or purple) ones.
  • 3screwsloose3screwsloose Member Posts: 116
    There is more to it than just the headlight [non-permissible content removed]'y. My '07 pkg #6 has 'em. There is a level sensor on the rear axle. when the car is loaded down the front end rises. This may blind oncoming drivers if not compensated. Also, the quality of the reflector and lens can make a significant difference in the performance. "Non-factory" systems may not do anything more than throw a bright light - not a "true" HID system.
  • birgerbirger Member Posts: 80
    Hi again,

    and thanks to the people who have answered the original post. Meanwhile our new Prius:


    has been ordered, and will be here in a couple of weeks :)

    However, it seems to me that some of you have not really understood what our intentions regarding HID were. What we were thinking of was - like we did on a 2000 Mercedes ML - to purchase the complete ORIGINAL Toyota HID headlight units and replace the ones on the vehicle.

    On the Mercedes this worked out perfectly, even without the auto leveling sensor - we drove that vehicle for some 6 years without getting flashed by oncoming drivers.

    The question was whether this would pose problems connection- or software-wise - not whether one of the various, very dubious aftermarket HID bulb adaptions would be possible.

    As the delivery date is now getting very close, we'll probably for the time being make do with a set of optimized H4 headlight bulbs from a recognized manufacturer - but it would be nice to know if anyone had done the OEM swap.

  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    Since we don't have a discussion for Prius electrical/lighting issues, I'll rename this one to use as the starting point.
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    The HID systems draw about 1/2 the power of the halogens, so I wouldn't expect any power problems swapping in the stock HID system. You do need the level sensor to be legal (though you'd have to check on this in your country). With the stock system, I don't think it would be easy to operate it without the level sensor. It would be expensive to purchase all those parts. Perhaps finding a wreck and getting the parts off it would help. I'd estimate $2500 for each side for the headlamp assys. and ballasts. Wires would have to be added - Toyota doesn't make just one wiring harness for all the Prius. There may be software issues on the CAN bus, as I believe the HID control/ballast units "talk" to the rest of the car. So you'd need either a good Toyota tech. to do it for you or the tech manual including schematics to do it yourself.
  • kadensgramkadensgram Member Posts: 3
  • birgerbirger Member Posts: 80

    Seeing that retrofitting OEM HID's to our new Prius will not only be quite expensive, but could also be downright impossible due to the electronics involved, we've decided on the second best solution:


    When we get it on Friday, a set of Philips X-treme Power H4 bulbs will be fitted - they're supposed to be 80% brighter than the stock H4 bulbs, yet still legal.

  • freerangemikefreerangemike Member Posts: 1
    I had to jump my wife's 2007 Prius this morning. The car has about 400 miles on it, is 1 month old, and was driven yesterday. The car was completely dead. Unfortunately, I was not there when she turned the car off and exited yesterday. Nor was I there when she got to the car this morning. Here is what she reports:
    1. She parked, hit the P button and the Power button. She unplugged her iPod from the power adapter but left the adapter itself in the 12V outlet. (Simple adaptor with no apparant capacitors or power draw.)
    2. She exited the car, and pushed the exterior lock button on the door. Her key was not left in the car, so it could not have been left inadvertantly running all night.
    3. When she got to the car this morning, about 16 hours later, the car was unlocked. No interior lights came on. Nothing happened when she hit the power button. She was unable to start the car using the manual key.
    4. There was no visible damage to the car (other than below). Her iPod was still in the center console.
    5. Last week, she was hit on the driver's side by a guy turning left from a side street. We are still awaiting the insurance resolution to get the damage repaired.

    My only theories here are:
    1. Mechanical failure within electrical system: I haven't seen any other reports of this problem on Priuses, except when they have been left idle for a couple weeks.
    2. The Alarm was going off all night, unbeknownst to us.
    3. The damage to the door caused some short circuit which is draining the battery, perhaps by repeatedly locking and unlocking the door.

    Any ideas?
  • carlstraubcarlstraub Member Posts: 50
    Happened to me last week. When I closed windows for the evening I'm sure I did not push the PWR button the last time to turn off the system.
    The "smartkey" outsmarted me. In our previous Prius we had to put fob in slot.
    BTW you can connect a battery charger to the spots. Mine was Ok in 15 minutes.
    Of course your damage may be the cause.
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    It's possible an interior light was on. That will drain the 12V battery. This makes it impossible to start without "boosting" it. Perhaps the side damage caused the door switch to keep the light on?
  • stevegoldstevegold Member Posts: 185
    It happened to me once when my 2004 was new. I jumped the small battery from the special under hood connections and it has worked fine ever since. I did buy a small battery, enough to start the computer, made the cigarette lighter outlet "always on" so it would power the computer, but have never had to use it for that purpose.
  • anna_g87anna_g87 Member Posts: 1
    i am having a/c issues as well. mine is a 2/05 prius bought brand new. i love the car for the mileage i get but recently it will cost me $$ for repairs. i turn on the a/c, blower works but no cold air. i brought it in at a toyota dealership to get diagnosed and according to the tech they found a small hole in the condensor and the whole a/c unit, condensor and receiver dryer needs to be replaced at a cost of $1300 ... i bought additional warranty but they don't consider that to be covered. now it's an out of pocket expense ... but how did that HOLE get there? it took a while for them to diagnose the problem, they had to place a DYE in the system to see where fluid was leaking ... it's a really small hole according to the tech. i'd have to trust them on this since i have no clue about cars. but how can i get the warranty to cover this? ... it's only 2 years old. i've had 3 cars before the prius and i've never had to replace the a/c condensor unit in any of my previous cars.
  • kadensgramkadensgram Member Posts: 3
    Perhaps this is being seen to warrenty as "Road damage" in otherwords the problem is not due to the failure of a part. Perhaps a rock or other item flew up from the road and made this minute hole. Look at your warrenty, especially the small print and see if indeed it is excluded. If you don't trust them you could take it to a private air conditioning business that someone you know highly reccomends and get a diagnosses and see if thats what they find, true it will cost to diagnose but it is a thought. Quite honestly I don't believe they will find my problem because they take it apart put it back together and then it works...they can't fix it because they can't find a broken part to replace they have had it 3 times so far. They don't charge me however my car was purchased to go between California and Arizona and its not going to do me anygood when i'm in Arizona and its 112 outside. perhaps you can go to the official"Toyota Web site and inquire there from the corporation. If I get mine fixed I will post it. I will check to see if you post additionally also, good luck.
  • steve1csteve1c Member Posts: 3
    It recently cost me over $300 to take care of the 12V battery dying suddenly with no dashboard indications of impending doom. The cost was about $100 for the tow to the dealer, and $215 for the battery and labor. Not a warranty item (a 2004 Prius w/60K miles, although I do have an extended warranty to 100K miles and 5 years).

    We had just pulled into the parking lot of a local (Vegas) nursery, and the dash displays went stupid when I attempted to shut off the car. Nothing worked, and there was a bad/ strong (hydrogen sulphide like) smell in the car. Can't open the back hatch when the 12V system is dead, so it was difficult to get to the battery, buried in the back end. It was also hard to move the car onto the tow truck since the system has to be powered up to shift into neutral. We finally used the under-hood jump point to bring up the computers and switch into neutral. It took about 3-4 tries. The dealer confirmed the 12V battery had gone bad, and they replaced it. Everything works fine now. Just not happy about the cost, and I wonder what would have happened on the open (out in the desert) road or in traffic. :mad:

    Here are what I see as design deficiencies: 1) 12V battery location in the passenger compartment, with potential for noxious fume generation and lack of ventilation; 2) lack of a remote, mechanical release for the hatch; 3) difficulty in placing the car in neutral should the 12V battery be disabled, or at least, lack of driver manual guidance for this situation; and 4) little or no warning that the 12V battery was going south. (In most conventional cars, we all know the symptoms: slow cranking, especially when cold; lights dimming). Had Nothing on the dash by way of warning.

    Toyota Customer Service was pleasant, but basically read me the standard responses, and would not allow me to talk with technical/engineering personnel. Said they would pass my concerns along. Offered reimbursement (which I passed on) to "re-establish my lost confidence in the car." (I had expressed the concern about this happening on the open road or in Las Vegas traffic. Paying for the repair had nothing to do with them addressing the technical issues and my shaken sense of confidence.) I am really curious whether other owners have had the same thing happen...
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    Your points are well taken, but I hope my clarifications are applicable.
    1. The 12V auxiliary battery is ventilated to the outside (hose connected to it). It is true if it bursts this would be bypassed, but that is not very likely. The battery is similar to a motorcycle battery in that it has a vent tube.
    2. Absolutely, a mechanical hatch release, even on the inside, would be nice (I thought I read it could be opened from the inside but perhaps not).
    3. The inability to put the car in neutral has been "complained of" before. One fellow had the car in a small garage when the battery died. Tow truck operator put the front wheels on dollies to get it out. He could have just connected a small battery to the under hood "boost" point.
    4. Maybe time to purchase a "Scangauge". It is an OBDII reader that will display up to four readouts in real time (all the time) out of about 18 choices. One is battery voltage. It sticks on the dash or wherever using velcro. Very handy. It can also read codes, reset codes, and act as a "trip meter". It can also be used in any vehicle 1996 or later (standard OBDII port).

    Looks like you got a good price on the battery anyway. Some owners were charged over $300 to have it replaced. As for the towing cost, a AAA membership saved me those costs for towing. Paid for a couple years membership.

    I'm surprised it failed so soon. Does the sun shine on the passenger side of your car when it's parked at home or work? Heat is very hard on lead-acid batteries.

    A few owners have purchased one of those portable "boost" devices. They are portable 12V batteries, and they double as 115VAC power providers, some even have tire pumps built in. Not too expensive (under $100), at Autozone or Pepboys, I think I read.
  • evgnatevgnat Member Posts: 1
    My 12V battery on 2004 Prius turned out to have a bad cell (as tested by the dealer service) and I had to replace it today. It is not readily available at the dealers and there was a few weeks wait at a few dealers to get it. It looks like Toyota has changed the battery model number at least twice in last few years.

    Looking back, I have had the battery die on me twice in last two years but I had blamed it on something not turned off. Now I think it was an early warning for a bad battery. Recently it died two times in two weeks and also gave a weak display some times while turning on, after which I took it to a dealer. Alas, I found out out that I had exceeded 3yr/30K warranty on the battery by two weeks.

    Word to the wise: get your battery checked out if it has died early in its life and unexpectedly on you.
  • steve1csteve1c Member Posts: 3
    Well, you won't convince the tow truck operator that the battery was vented outside, because he complained about the fumes inside being bad, as he struggled to find that latch release.

    We finally did find the mechanical release for the hatch. It is not obvious...even after looking at the manual. You have to put the rear seats down, remove the carpet and pan, pull open a small access on the hatch, and then feel around with your fingers for a small lever that will release the hatch.

    Thanks for the lead on the scanguage. I'll check it out.

    The car is normally garaged, except when I'm at work. Then it does sit in the desert sun. Still, I've had other cars out here that had batteries last 4-5 years no problem. And it never cost more than $60-70 to put in a new one myself.

    I would still like to hear if anyone has experienced or heard of a Prius going dead while it's in motion.
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    You must have had a cell short on you. Sometimes a piece of lead comes loose and shorts out a cell. If the cell was fully charged, it will heat up and vent out the "emergency pressure release vent", bypassing the normal vent tube. Also possible the vent tube was not connected.

    I've seen at least one other posting of a Prius going dead while driving due to the 12V battery failing. Well, all lights going on etc. and the car not going again once stopped.

    For the price Toyota charges, a yellow top Optima size 51 battery would be a good replacement. You'd have to rework the mounting hardware and terminals, though.
  • stevegoldstevegold Member Posts: 185
    Has anyone had to replace the 12V gel cell that starts the computer? After four years I had a problem starting the other day. The dealer can test it and install a replacement if necessary for $125.
    Is there another source of supply? It's a small battery located in the right, back near the spare tire.
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    It's not a gel cell. It's a normal sealed lead acid battery with a vent tube (just like a motorcycle battery).

    If the dealer offered you one for $125 go for it. That's a good price. I've seen others pay $250 and up.

    I haven't seen or heard of another source, though you could check the size (measure it) and go to a battery specialty store. I know the Optima size 51 yellow top would just fit in there, but you'd have to do your own hold-down and terminal modification. It's $220 or so, as well.
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    It's not normal. Was an interior light left on? Hatch not closed properly? A healthy Prius 12V battery can go for a month or longer without use. Do switch off the SKS (smart key system) to reduce drain (button under steering wheel). Do not leave the fob in the car (the car will constantly talk to it). Make sure the fob is at least 100 ft from the car, or in a metal box.

    If none of this helps, purchase a "battery tender". It's a small charger. You attach a lead to the under-hood charging points and plug the lead into the tender when you leave. It keeps the 12V system fully charged.
  • boraboraborabora Member Posts: 16
    thanks Pathstar1,

    no, i checked every light before i left, and i turned of the SKS, too.

    beside battery tender, what can i do then? changing a battery?
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    The battery may have been damaged before the car was sold. That is, discharged and left that way for a few weeks. A good test is to disconnect the battery and leave it for a few weeks to see if it still discharges. Hard to do, as you want to drive the car.

    Check the battery connections. Make sure they are tight and clean. If they aren't it will never be completely charged. The 12V battery is in the right corner of the hatch area. Remove hatch floor, remove storage bin. Fold black plastic flap forward (away from hatch wall) and lift cover out. You will see the battery.

    Because it's such a small battery, load testers don't work very well. They are designed for larger capacity batteries.
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Member Posts: 2,697
    I read elsewhere that it is normal because of the battery's very small size and capacity and the solution is to have someone drive the car at least once a week, disconnect the battery, get a battery minder or simply be prepared to recharge the battery when you return from vacation.
  • suirpsuirp Member Posts: 4
    I disconnect the battery terminal under the hood when I leave my Prius garaged for up to 10 weeks each summer. Reconnect on return and it starts right up.
  • hoefulhoeful Member Posts: 1
    I made a mistake in thinking I could have my old Alpine navigation system installed on my new 2007 Prius. That system worked fine on three previous cars where there was plenty of room for it. But on the new Prius, it seems a gamble whether there is any room at all for the installation. People at the dealer's said there is too much wire and components in the dashboard area. Is it possible to get a look-see at that area without too much trouble?
  • vcgenovcgeno Member Posts: 5
    I have had my Prius for about 7 months without a problem. A few days ago after parking it 50 degree weather the utility battery died. No doors were open, no lights were on, and I can't figure out what happened. I had it checked out at the dealer and they said there was no problem with the battery or the charging system. It seems to be working OK now. Anyone else have this problem or know what might have gone wrong?

    I also found jump starting the Prius quite an adventure. Standard sized jumper cables are to big for the battery terminal. I had to find someone with a cheap set of cables in order to jump start the car. The slot where the positive terminal is is much too narrow. Anyone have any suggestions for me?

    That said I love the car.
  • stevegoldstevegold Member Posts: 185
    I have a 2004 Prius. The same thing happened to me twice, the first time after a month or two and the second time three years later. I probably left something on as those are pretty infrequent intervals. You do NOT have to get to the small battery to jump it. There are special terminals under the hood that make it real easy. Look in the book.
  • vcgenovcgeno Member Posts: 5
    It was not the other persons battery it was that the positve connection on the Prius is too small for the clamps on standard sized jumber cables.
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    I made my own jumper cables using #25 Mueller solid copper clips on the Prius end and larger ones on the "doner car" end with #10 finely stranded wire (trolling motor cable). The Prius only draws a 1/2 sec. 40 amp pulse when you press on the brake, and another when you press "Start". This cable is heavy enough for that. I keep it in the "secret storage bin" in the front of the console (because you can't open the hatch with a dead 12V battery).

    When you turn off the car, if you sit inside, the headlamps stay on. This can kill the battery. If you turn the car on and off from the passenger side you will not open the drivers door, and again, the headlamps will stay on, draining the battery. This is how most people kill the battery. So always be sure to open and close the drivers door when you shut off the car.

    I haven't needed the cable, and probably never will. But I have it ready, just in case. ;)
  • lnmlnm Member Posts: 13
    I hope I can describe our situation accurately as I was not the driver when the problem occured. My husband drives our 2005 Prius approx. 50 miles daily. One snowy morning, he left the house and proceeded normally to the freeway on-ramp, about 3 miles from our house. As he got on the freeway, the Prius dropped to about 20 mph. The car wouldn't go any faster no matter how much gas was applied. The speedometer reading, however, displayed inaccurate speeds - 80 mph. Unaware of what to do, he completed his commute and drove it home that evening. I checked the car in the evening and witnessed the same problem - car wouldn't accelerate no matter how much pressure was applied to the gas pedal, and the speedometer displayed obviously incorrect speeds. The technology display didn't indicate any problem and no warning lights were present. In fact, the display indicated that the battery was at 3/4 charge. He had just filled the gas tank the night before (he never lets it go below 1/2 full).

    Feeling it was unsafe to drive, I had it towed to Toyota. They took a look at it and told me that nothing was wrong with it - the battery had just gotten too low. First question, if the battery was low, why would it start and drive normally for 3 miles at all? Second question, would a low battery cause all the problems described (no acceleration, incorrect speedometer readings), or is it possible that the dealer just charged the battery, the computer reset, and the problem temporarily disappeared?

    I'm pissed about having to pay for the tow and the labor to recharge the battery, but I'm more concerned that the real problem hasn't been solved. The dealer explained that the battery that became rundown was the second, technology battery, so I assume he's talking about the 12V battery described in other posts above. Also, my husband does not recall leaving any powered accessories on or doors ajar, so it's inconceivable to us how this battery would have gotten rundown overnight.

    Any feedback at all is appreciated.
  • lnmlnm Member Posts: 13
    I just wanted to add to the above post. I called the service guy back to clarify the problem further. He said the 12V battery was completely dead and the main battery was almost dead. I asked what could have cause this to happen overnight (was driving fine at 5 p.m. the day before, problems began at 8 a.m. the next mornign), and he basically boiled it down to something (door light) being left on. I asked him about the car possibly needing a software update, a cell being blown or faulty, cold weather and he said no chance to all of those things.

    It seems to me that the service guy relies on a diagnostic computer to tell him what's going on with the car. I asked if he visually inspected the battery to see if it was faulty or a cell had blown and he said no, the computer would tell him if anything was wrong. I think I need to get another opinion on the status of these batteries. I've read in other posts that AutoZone will check a battery for free. I will be taking it there and reposting if I find out anything new. There is just no way that we left something on in the car, and frankly I resent being blamed for it. Even if a light was left on, would this cause a battery to go completely dead after just 15 hours?
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    I have seen a few reports of a poor connection to the chassis from the 12V battery -ve terminal causing problems. It may be that connection failed. This -could- happen "suddenly", though it would be rare. Perhaps the bolt came loose.
  • talagerytalagery Member Posts: 1
    Thanks for that info..
    This is exactly what happened to my brand new 2008 Prius with 1200 miles on it. I realise now that I must have left the headlight on as I powered off from the passenger side. After sometime, I was told that my alarm is going off (which is supposed to happen if the 12V battery is totally discharged (sounds counterintuitive to me !). My dealer Pat Lobb Toyota of McKinney was nice enough to replace my battery free of charge although the 'dead' battery was perfectly fine.

    Interesting side note: Realised that the 12V has to be active for switching the car to Neutral.. :)
  • yikeskimboyikeskimbo Member Posts: 1
    I have had my brand new '08 Prius for 2 weeks and 2 days. I just filled it up for the first time this week, which is great. But, today I pushed start and the screen was still blank...Yikes! I thought...maybe I don't have the break pressed down. Nope. So, I turned the car off and restarted...Yikes! No screen. It drove fine, but I cannot operate things beyond the "manual" steering wheel controls. I'm taking it in tomorrow and hoping it's something simple...frustrating and I'm trying to be patient. If it's a fuse, why would a brand new car already be blowing fuses? Did I get a lemon?? :lemon: Hopefully not!! I was really excited about my first new car purchase and it felt like a good decision...too good to be true maybe?
  • nw_vikingnw_viking Member Posts: 11
    Dealer had to replace my left HID bulb this week. They initially thought it was likely the controller card behind the light, but it passed all the diagnostics. So they decided it must be the bulb. I was told that the part would have cost $400 if not covered by factory warranty (only 23K miles). I think they had to pull off the fender or bumper to get at the assembly.

    Symptoms: headlamp would occasionally dim or go out completely. Cycling the lights off and back on always seemed to correct the problem for a while.

    The dealer (Bob Bridge Toyota in Renton, WA) did have to keep my car for a few days while waiting for the part. They said it was the first time they had seen this type of failure in a Prius. I didn't ask about HID failures in other Toyota models.
  • birgerbirger Member Posts: 80
    Hi viking,

    $400! That's unfortunate news. It's probaly correct that the bumper has to be removed to get at the headlight assembly, although it should not be necessary just for a bulb exchange.

    I take this opportunity to give an update on what's happened to our Prius (light-wise) since I last posted quite a while back. Sorry for the long post following.....

    The Philips H4 ExtremePower bulbs were (after having aimed the headlights a little less "conservatively") a pleasant surprise, for conventional headlights, although of course not a match for the Bi-Xenons on our then other car, a Mercedes ML 320CDI. But as a relatively cheap, easy solution, they're really OK:

    However, apart from the excellent lights, our particular ML was rather a :lemon: , so it was replaced in June by a Lexus RX400h, which - like the Prius - is pure bliss to drive.

    To my surprise I found out that the Lexus came with only low-beam Xenon headlights (it must be the only brand that offer swivelling, but not Bi-Xenon headlights), and driving long distances at night was something of a challenge, having been used to Xenon hi-beams for seven years or so.

    Quite quickly, I found a solution via EBay - a Chinese/American company who in no time shipped me a HID replacement kit for the 9005 hi-beam bulbs on the Lexus. And now even my previous Bi-Xenon equipped cars look weak in comparison!!

    The kit was really very easy to fit, of an impressive quality, and cost only around $100 (the price has since dropped radically to only $42.99). After a while, the idea of "Xenonising" the Prius too from the same source matured, and in the late fall I ordered a set of H4-compatible units from the same company. Because there's slightly more hardware and electronics involved, they are a little more expensive (the current price is $ 85.99).

    Shipment was again quick, but due to work I had the kit siting around for some time before fitting it to the Prius. Again, impressive workmanship, no wiring has to be cut, and I did the installation in a couple of unstressed hours. It achieves hi/lo beam by a retracting metal cutoff shade - just like the units used on some Volvo models, IIRC.

    The low beam light pattern is VERY close to the original, with minimal stray light and really no blinding of ooncoming drivers. And of course with a vastly improved output - this really is the thing to get if you didn't get Xenons from the factory, and you plan on any kind of longer distance night driving. The high beam light is very much better than standard, but not quite as much a revolution as the low beam is.

    We have just come back from a 1500 mi trip, most of which was done in the dark, and it was very, very zen - no stress from not seeing enough, and no stress from oncoming drivers flipping their lights at you either.

    Highly recommendable!

  • nw_vikingnw_viking Member Posts: 11
    Hi Birger,

    Just to would have cost $400 plus labor, but since the factory warranty still applied, I paid nothing.

  • birgerbirger Member Posts: 80
    Hi Viking,

    yup - I know that. But since the Xenon bulbs/burners are supposed to last for the life of the car, a slightly premature failure would probably occur beyond the warranty period - and thus be a nasty surprise.

    OT: Sometime one might wonder how many modern cars are designed: The Mercedes "A" Class (not sold in the US) requires the front bumper to be removed to replace the side marker light bulb - and these burn out quite frequently. Cost of bulb: EUR 1.50. Cost of removal/replacement of front bumper: EUR 295 !

  • coontie66coontie66 Member Posts: 110
    I think you will find these Optima's at Sams Club for $155. I just got 3 for my boat.
  • aaperryaaperry Member Posts: 1
    Last night, pulled up and put my 2006 Prius in park and then depressed the power button. Got a little warm in the car and I wanted to open the windows; depressed the power button, cracked all four of the windows and depressed the power button again. Left the car, took the smart key with me...everything was 'off' as far as I could tell...All seemed fine until I got ready to acutally start the car and leave the store. Got into the car, fastened the seat belt, foot on the brake, depressed the power button...all of the shift position lights started to flash, the gas indicated went down to only having one bar (yet the car was over 3/4 full), the low tire pressure and ABS lights came on along with the check engine light. The park indicator light was green and the power indicator light was amber. I thought maybe I depressed the power button too fast, so I did it again only slower. Still nothing but flashing lights and then eventually no lights at all. I was able to put up all of the windows except the drivers (auto) window, thank goodness it was only 'cracked.' Finally called roadside assistance and had someone 'jump' the 12V battery in the front. After the car 'started' the red triangle with the exclamation point in the center on the dash board was illuminated. Also, the computer screen was only showing the lower 2/ the upper third in the left hand corner was (in red) an outline of a car with another exclamation point. I drove the car home; approximately 20 miles and backed into the garage (in case it had to be jump started again)...about 10 minutes later, went back out into the car and it started like there had never been any issues. Got up this morning and again no issues...called the dealer, they want to check for 'battery power' on Friday...this is not a good situation when you're alone hoping that your cell phone battery will hold up long enough to get some help.
  • buzbybuzby Member Posts: 1
    a friend brought a prius in from japan and is wondering can the display be changed to english, does this involve new software or hardware, is it possible. have been in touch with toyota in japan but they have been less than helpful directing me to toyota ireland, whom in turn have been less ######### so wondering is their any
    techies ot there who can answer the question
  • whitey9whitey9 Member Posts: 138
    An electric boat? How v-e-r-y in-ter-est-ing!
  • femelatfemelat Member Posts: 1
    Can anyone assist me in removing the coverof the fuse box. I have been able to release the clips at the top of the lid, but cannot get the bottom clip to let go. I would like to be able to get to the charging post,inside this box before I really need it. Thanks Clem.
  • jfbohnjfbohn Member Posts: 1
    Twice in the last 2 weeks when I go to start our 2004 Prius, I step on the brake, push the "Power" button and all the dashboard warning lights come on, but nothing will happen. The car really isn't 'started'. You can't put it in gear. Pushing the "Power" button again does nothing, pushing the "Park" button does nothing. I tried inserting the key in the slot, and it went it, but nothing happened, and then the key could not be removed. After letting the car sit for awhile (10-15 minutes), I stepped on the brake and pushed the "Power" button and everything shut down. Then it would start as usual, and the key would come out.

    Called the local dealer service manager who said that they would have to get the car to do the same thing in order to diagnose the problem. He says there would be no computer codes in the system that could help. I find that hard to believe.

    Any help would be most appreciated.
  • kevdarkevdar Member Posts: 1
    HELP??!! 2007 toyota prius hid problem,,ocassionally while driving both headlites go out ,quick fix flick the switch and they will come on,next pass. side goes out acts as if it burned out, we opened hood and wow!! must have lost a pound of skin just trying to get to bulb, called dealer about replacing lites and almost had to call ems for heart attack symtoms,, next time lites were neede d they both worked fine she uses car every nite for work and lites are on 4 to 6 hrs. at atime do you have any ideas what problem might be? is it lite issue or something else would also like to omit HIDS and go to halogen can this be done? thanks for you r help
  • AlanB4AlanB4 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2006 Prius with almost the same problem. Not only do both headlights occasionally go out and come right back on when I flick the switch, but sometimes the left light, sometimes the right goes out until I turn lights off and on again. I told my dealer about this months ago, but they said I neede a new left headlamp, apparently ignoring everything else I told them. I can't believe it's either or both of the lamps themselves--it looks like a problem with the circuitry, maybe the controller card that nw_viking mentions. I'm going to take it back to the dealer, but if anyone has found a solution to this problem, I'd be grateful to know, too.
  • grc31472grc31472 Member Posts: 2
    I had this same problem, got pulled over probably four times because my headlights were intermittently on or off so I would check before leaving and they would be on, next thing I know I was pulled over, flipping the switch on off to reset lights and cops never ticketed me, however, I finally brought it to my dealer in VT because all my lights (dash and exterior) went off while driving at night once and scared the ...out of me. They changed the HID bulbs and the "casing" for the drivers side bulb free of charge...I have not had this problem since. This was occuring at around a year or so after buying the car, now I have almost 100k miles and have not had ONE problem at all I love this car. Just another quick note, I did send a letter to Toyota based on the scare of all my lights going out while driving 55 mph at night and did receive an appology letter and compensation for my troubles.
Sign In or Register to comment.