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Comments
http://www.autoclinix.com/Manifold.htm
marti :
I have a v6 motor and auto trans from a 99 cougar and I am putting it in a boat, a 78 ski nautique.
So having said that I need all the power to be applied to one output shaft only (drivers side) or equally to both would be ok too.
So I have two thoughts the first is to make some kind of plate for the passenger side that keeps the output shaft on that side from moving. The other option is to go into transmission and modify it somehow (like welding the spyder gears in a chunk). Anybody have a clue?
My Cougar is a 99, had it since new. AC just quit working 2 years ago. I live in FL so it is HOT! The compressor has been replaced with a new one and it has been recharged. Still does not work. No cold air at all.
Any suggestions? I would like to do the work myself if possible. The car has almost 190 thousand on it. Not worth big expenditure.
Also would anyone know how long recalls on cars are good for? I think I may have found a recall to describe another issue I am having. It may be worth pursuing.
Thanks.
No it did not work for me. I ended replacing the compressor (another 30 bucks)and recharging it again but still no luck. Guessing there is a leak somewhere. I have given up on it for now. I am used to sweating it out! My car is a 6 cly. I am actually going to buy a new vechicle this weekend. I will keep the "cat" for driving around town so I am not sure if I'll ever fix the air. She's been a good car except for the A/C and a few of her own electrical quirks.
Good luck with the A/C. If the miles are low and your going to keep the car, it may be worth paying the money to have it fixed. The kit is a good cheap way to start, worth a try.
Thanks
She has good days and bad days, no rime or reason, but she still gets me to work 193 thousand miles and going!
She is in medical school, and i take care of the car.
Has run well, she aint the most mechanical, but i dont think more than normal problems.
yes, i replaced the radio, and the sun roof wont open any more, but has been good transportation. sounds good with an after market stereo, and who really needs sun?
my problem now is / are two.
1 engine light is on, and code reader sends back P0401 EGR flow insufficient.
2 temperature guage stays at minimum.
a year ago, it was running bad,(uneven idle, stalling, racing engine... always started) and though the codes said oxygen sensors were not right, the problem cleared up with replacing the coolant sensor.
I have checked the egr valve, and it opens, no holes in the diaphram, and the exhaust tube is not blocked. if you close up the holes in the manifold, the egr opens and closes, and will stay open at a constant rpm (~2k).
now the egr vacuum passes through one vacuum solenoid, but the egr itself has only a diaphram and exhaust tube. there is no device to sample the egr flow directly.
does anyone know what other sensors are involved in deciding how much egr is the right amount.
is there a second temperature sensor, and where is it?
i did replace the temp sensor again, and nothing changed. (just wishful thinking).
I reset the computer, and the light stays off about a day, during that time, no codes are in the car, and there is no freeze frame data.
im running low on $ as just did rear struts, front lower control arms and stabilizers, wheel bearings last year.
(Pittsburgh pot hole are the best)
thanks for any help.
not too bad a job.
in the strut tower, there are 2 10 mm screws that hold in a top mounting plate. there is a pinch bold on the bottom, thats easy to see and get at.
you need to disconnect the stabilizer from the swing arm.
loosen, but dont take out the 2 10mm screws.
loosen and remove the pinch bolt.
support the control arms so they dont drop when its all loose. but it needs to be able to fall away from the strut.
you will need to compress the spring/strut to get it out of the tower, and away from a travel limiting tab on the frame.
once its out, you need to compress the spring, remove the top bolt, and pull the spring off.
your half way there..
keep the spring compressed, and reassemble it and the top plate on the new strut.
keep the spring short,and put it back in the tower.
start the 2 10 mm screws, but not all the way tight.
reposition the strut and push the lower knuckle back onto the new strut, and replace the pinch bolt.
make sure the ends of the springs are in the right place, and release the spring.
recheck all the bolts to torque specs, and your done.
all through this, you have to take care not injur your brake lines or abs sensors .
bolts are easy to get to, top ones need some extensions.
spring compressor is the key, needs to be compact enough to get into the tower for re assembly. there are some available that use a single screw. the cheaper ones use 2 screws with hooks on both ends, and take up too much width and height in the tower.
i was desperate, and used steel cables to keep the springs compressed after i reassembled the thing on the bench. then loosened the cable bolts after it was together. it worked, but... dont be a putz like me, go rent the right compressor, then its a relatively easy job.
good luck, be careful.
Thanks!
Does the car have any special hoses going to it that may have broken?
Was a cheap fix so it might be worth getting the information from them. I found them here down near the bottom of the page: http://www.carsurvey.org/viewmorecomments_review_50800_2.html#c204379