Click on the pulley section as well as the FAQ and they give a decent overview of their pulleys and how they work. As was noted above, they are smaller than stock, so your accessories will spin slower. UR says that generally no one will notice as they only do about 15% underdriving. They are also much lighter, which means your engine doesn't have to work as hard and thus gains HP. Finally, you can check out http://www.zerosports.co.jp for some Japanese Subaru pulleys, including for A/C and alternator.
Thanks for the nice comments on my pics. They are from SE Oregon, near Leslie Gulch, Succor Creek, and Rome.
I look forward to this forum with great enthusiasm as I've enjoyed many enlightening posts in the other Subaru forums here on Edmund's.
As background, my first Subaru was a 91 Legacy L+ wagon. My current ride (wife's actually; sometimes I get to drive it is a 00 Legacy GT wagon, 5-speed manual transmission (5MT).
I'm surprised the Subaru group was the second formed, given the deication you guys show. I'm glad to be a part of the group. Stevev1 90 Legacy LS 2000 Forester S
please? I wanna go where the Subie people go...Juice and Mike, I'll just keep following and learning. currently a 2K OB LTD, last a 9 Forester L and before that a 90 Legacy (Front wheel drive) Vince14
Elsewhere on Subaru boards, someone asked about fuel efficiency which appears to be better at 75mph than at 65mph. I have a vague recollection of reading in the manufacturer's engine manuals for my Mitsubishi Galant 20 years ago, that there is an efficient operating speed or load for every car but do not understand the reasons why (us accountants understand the numbers and how to save the money pretty well, though).
I have some recollection of a phrase like "stoichiometric efficiency" which refers, I think to the efficiency with which the fuel air mixture is burned. I guess this may have been a function of the old carburetor fed systems but may not apply to the same extent on electronic fed systems where the efficiency can be monitored and altered.
Against the efficient fuel usage of the engine, the wind resistance rises, I think as a function of the square of the speed and friction and other losses probably rise linearly. There is probably some minima for all of the forces which means there is a genuine most efficient fuel usage point/speed for each car type.
I know that each car I have owned has had an apparent "natural speed" which the car would tend to settle at when driven long distance on freeway type roads with no other cars around and the throttle tamped as little as possible.
I don't think that the car will get better gas mileage at 75MPH than 65MPH if all things are exactly the same. If this were observed, I think an environmental factor is more likely to be the cause than air fuel mixture or another parameter of the engine. Something like wind, hills, traffic, altitude, even gas quality. At part throttle cruise, a modern Subaru will lean out the fuel mix whether you're going 50 or 80. It should be fairly obvious that more fuel is going to be consumed while going faster.
And my car seems to naturally settle in about 5-10 MPH over the speed limit, whatever that may be.
My "almost" 21 year old son is seriously considering buying a used Sub (probably a wagon) for the room (he's 6 ft.1, 300 lbs), gas mileage, all-wheel drive and the reliability. I agree with him on all points...
But at this point (still shopping) he's thinking NOTHING of paying $5,000+ for a vehicle with 85,000 miles or more. I realize that Subaru engines can last a really long time, and that might be an okay deal... but with the volume of these cars on the road, might he not get a better deal than that?
Also, he's a bit short on cash (aren't most 21 year olds) and I keep telling him a vehicle, any vehicle, with that many miles might be looking at a lot of standard repairs. Spark plugs, fuel injectors, brakes, clutches...
What's a good price on a Sub, about 5-8 years old with more than 80,000 miles? When does the clutch go?
Unfortunately, this varies wildly with type of driving (rush hour stop-and-go is murder on clutches; 2000 mile highway trips are easy on them) and on the drivers' clutch habits. Towing loaded trailers in rush hour traffic is probably a worst-case scenario. :-)
The older Subarus with the 2.2L engines had smaller clutches. When they first went to the 2.5L engines they left the smaller clutch in, at least on the Forester, which turned out to be a problem. So it may depend on engine vintage as well.
Make sure that if the car has the 60,000 mile timing belt, it got replaced at 60,000 miles. (Or is it 90,000? Mine is 105,000 in my Forester, so I forget what they used to be.) When they have/had the engine open for this they should check the condition of the oil pump as well.
For prices on used cars, look at the "used car" price ranges right here on Edmunds, and also on the Kelly blue book pages (www.kbb.com). The "retail" values are useful to know for your own negotiation.
Hi all I've been following the various Subaru sites for a while now and have found them very useful, I currently own a 98 Forester I just bought and a 87 GL wagon 4x4 which I'm trying to sell,
For anyone out there who owns an older subaru thats primarly from wheel drive with 4-wheel assist the new AWD system is amazing and you can really feel the difference. Plus the larger engines are really head and shoulders above the old 1.8L. I just hope that I can drive the Forester for 325K with no major repairs.
On the Forester (S) I'm currently looking for a good set of tires to put on for the summer months because the car came with winter tires on it, and was wondering what kind of tire I should be looking at for mainly summer driving with some minor gravel roads and mountain driving in western Canada, thanks for the input and we need more people to post here
I knew this would get interesting. A highly technical discussion in the first 10 posts!
I tend to get 25-28 mpg on trips, but how it varies has more to do with the amount of weight I'm carrying and drag (higher when I use the soft cargo carrier).
I touched 30mpg once on an all highway trip by myself, but speeds were around 75mph. Not bad with today's gas prices.
I'm driving to New York (third time in the Soob!) on Tuesday, with 4 passengers plus luggage. Lots of luggage, have you ever seen a Brazilian go shopping in New York? I expect about 25 mpg, but I'll keep you guys posted, as usual.
Cookie: well cared for Subarus typically last. 80k is really nothing. A few buddies have hit 200k, and iSR has a quarter million mile club with several photos. Check the papers, and have a mechanic do a once-over. The newer Impreza and Legacy models are all best bets in used cars, according to Consumer Reports.
Stephen: good question, but it's a tough one. Summer tires are very sporty, with soft tread and stiff sidewalls. They stick like glue, but don't last, and are good in rain but awful in snow and off road.
Off road tires usually have taller profile and soft sidewalls, since you want that flex off road.
You may need a skizophrenic tire to do both. I recommend you get a new set of wheels and mount summer tires on them. Then mount new snow or off-road tires on your current set.
Otherwise, it's comprosise with a good all-season tire. The Desert Duelers are great in the snow, but not good in wet braking, and only ok in dry handling. I'm changing them, since I don't venture too far from pavement.
The tricky part really is if there will be any cold weather driving, especially ice and snow. If so... try something like the Pirelli P7000 SuperSport.
If we're just talking summer driving and some dirt and gravel roads, then I'd recommend the Yokohama AVS Intermediate. Good in the rain (until nearly bald, no surprise there) and tread pattern allows for decent gravel grip but stay out of deep mud. Very scary in cold weather of any kind.
The stock tires on my Impreza are actually fairly competent on gravel... Bridgestone Potenza RE92 v-rated. Unfortunately their tarmac performance (dry and wet) is so lame I wouldn't recommend them to anyone, especially considering the price.
It's great to see the new conference is now up! I currently have a Miata but I'm looking to get a Forester in the next month or so. I hope I can contribute more in the near future but for now I'll have to defer to all you knowledgeable Subaru folks out there.
One comment I found interesting while doing a little car research was about the Forester having mushy/soft brakes. I guess it's all relative because the brakes in the two Foresters I test- drove (2000 and 2001) were much firmer than in my Miata. However, I did test-drive a Passat wagon and the brakes were so touchy that I felt like I was just learning how to drive again!
Anyway, any comments on the colors for the 2001 Forester S with the moonroof package (black, white, silver, red)? I've only had a green car so I'm kind of stuck on what to go with but I am leaning towards silver. Any problems to be aware of?
Cheers, Shane. (San Jose, CA)
ps. Now that there's a Subaru-specific conference, maybe 'Subaru' should be added to the Spellcheck dictionary.
but, I just want to say that I went to the Pacific International Auto show tonight and it was Subaru galore! There were a couple of Subaru rally cars (Blue "Rex") with the obligatory quad Hella high intensity Rally Spot lights mounted on the hood. I snapped a few pictures and hopefully will get them to juice to place on his webpage (if he deems them worthy) as soon as I finish the roll of film and get it developed.
Oh, I also forgot to say that I snapped a couple of pictures of a nifty lifesize cross sectional cut-out of a Subaru Forester. The Subaru announcer (explaining the mechanicals of the vehicle - AWD/Boxer engine/etc.) was kind enough to ask everyone to stand back while I took the pictures.
Good to see this group. You've seen my performance posts before and I hope to add a performance flavor to this group. Not all 30-year olds who buy Legacy Outbacks are staisfied with the stock setup!
I went to the gym late (for me) this morning, around 7:30 AM. Parked my Forester behind a Brat. In front of that was an Outback ... and a Legacy ... and (I think) a Liberty. Anyway, there was only one non-Subaru in the whole line of six cars by the gym, at 7:30 AM on a Sunday morning. :-)
A word of thanks for overseeing the new site! Your comments in the past have been very helpful, to the point and with a touch of good humor.
I hope all who avail themselves of the new site exercise the good judgement both of you have shown. It's refreshing to find an "adult" effort these days.
My wife ('97 Imprezza) and I ('96 Outback) are strong advocates of Subaru, especially here in Illinois. Neither car has given us the least bit of trouble and other than routine maintenance, they "visit" the dealership for washes! I've owned an SVX which I traded in on the Outback as my wife and I are avid bicyclists and we couldn't feel secure knowing the bikes were on the back of the coupe. The SVX was probably one of the best cars I ever owned and that one also has no problems in the 50,000 plus miles.
The next wqgon will most likely be a 2001 Outback with the H6 sometime later this year.
I'm planning to buy a new car sometime between 7/1 and 12/15/2000. I'd like an automatic Subaru Limited Wagon. What should I expect to pay? I keep seeing different dealer invoice and MSRP amounts. Thanks for your help.
In the greater Chicago area, it seems as if you can purchase Outback Ltd wagons for approximately $2,500 under MSLP. At least, this is what the ads show. You may be able to strike a "better" deal, especially if you purchase a 2000 model just at the time the 2001 is introduced. Expected date is around September.
Price often is a function of the number of dealers in your area. Here, we have nearly 12 within 25-30 miles of Chicago.
If you live anywhere near here, I'd be glad to make introductions for you.
I bought my 00 OB Ltd wagon w/auto, prem sound system (incls upgraded spkrs & 6-disc changer), autodimming mirror/compass, extra woodgrain, cargo net, ski attach. for $26,870 in Feb during Presidents' Day weekend. This was a good price for that time of year in the northern part of the USA. It seems as soon as the roads get a little squirrelly w/snow,ice, or rain the price is a little higher. I'm sure that I could get closer to the low $26k as summer approaches. My price included dealer cost plus options @ cost, $850 dealer profit plus a $189 locate fee. At the time, the color combo I wanted was hard to find. I have the Granite Pearl Black. I tried locating the car myself as I originally wanted it before I went skiing in Whistler,BC back during the second week of Feb. I did a lot of calling and faxing so I felt comfortable in paying the locate fee to dealer for their effort (I used to sell cars too). I figured the retail price of my car to be close to $29k. Anyhow, I hope this helps prospective buyers. As my father so wisely told me years ago, if you think you got a good deal then you did as there will always be someone else who got better.
Don: Thanks for joining us. Regarding the "adult" effort, you must be referring to juice. Regarding to the point, I KNOW you were talking about juice. Thanks for your kind words.
Chris: A Liberty (you think) in the parking lot? Cool. Low-range transmission and other good stuff we don't get.
Drew: You're informative posts (and photos) are always welcome!
Dave: I think you created the performance topic about the same time Bonnie was setting up the topics here. juice and I suggested Subaru Crew - Modifications (Topic #16) to discuss modifications and performance in this part of Edmund's to put all the Subaru topics under one roof, so people wouldn't have to hunt around for the all the Subaru threads. No problem having both.
As I know you'd like to enhance your Outback (and in case I haven't already mentioned it), you might find i Club -- North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club interesting. The site was founded by Impreza 2.5 RS owners but it's a helpful site as much of the Impreza, Legacy, and Outback platform are similar, including the Phase II engine and much of the suspension (e.g., Impreza sway bars fit the Legacy and vice versa). Also see the Legacy Forum on i Club. Warning: Not all i Club posters are courteous (read: mature; i.e., research before you post and don your flame suit).
And while we're on the subject of sites I would be remiss if I didn't mention the best compendium of Subaru sites I've ever seen, Gordon Diamant's Sube-Directory. Gordon is the man.
Anyone else have withdrawal yesterday while Edmund's was down? I know my productivity skyrocketed.
God loves Subie owners in the Northeast... gave us a little last hurrah with 6 inches of snow! One last time to tool around the snow covered roads. A nice little spring break!
pahill- Never go down from list, alway work up from cost. Use the cost figures here at Edmunds, which are almost 100% accurate, except for freight (off by $4) and see below. Know the costs of each option you want and may have to take. Take the total cost with options at cost, add the freight, and negotiate a fair amount above that amount that you're comfortable with. The range posted here has been from below cost to 3% aove, depending on the time and area purchased. Try several dealers . Good luck.
P.S. Woodgrain trim for doors is shown at Edmunds and elsewhere at $100 list. Subie window stickers show it as a $200 list option. So, is the price per side? Does anyone know? Has anyone else experienced their front bumper (2K OB only) spliting a bit at the seam? Mine is. Vince14
Er,don't US Outbacks get a self levelling rear end? Certainly, my Austrlalian spec OB Ltd has it and it is very useful. Perhaps another item where US spec cars are downgraded from the rest of the world
I'm new at this...guess I should have said I live in the Mtns. of N. California about 1 1/2 hrs from the nearest (1) Subaru dealer. I'm learning a lot from this site and from Don, Stephen, and Vince who were kind to respond to my question. Thanks! The search goes on!! Patty
Although I sell Land Rovers & love them, I grew up in Subs in SW Colorado, where they were the only non-truck in the parking lots on snow days. I've had all 4WDs, an '82 wagon, an '84 wagon, an '86 GL-10 Turbo wagon, & my current toy, a '93 Sport Sedan that I'm in the process of fitting with a twin turbo intercooled Japan-spec engine into. Also stripping the interior & turning it into rally only. Running into some financial grief, and the performance parts are rare, so I'm considering just finishing the engine, selling it, & getting the smaller, but much more modifiable RS Turbo I keep hearing is coming. Anyhow, glad your here & I'll stop in from my LR groups as often as I can. Good luck.
Graham, no self-leveling on US Legacy, GT, Outback, or Outback Sport (Impreza wagon). On the Astralian-spec Outback, what's the implementation of self-leveling, is it pneumatic like the "air suspension" of early 90 Subaru's? I checked SoAU and found scant details: "Coil Springs, Self Leveling".
I received my Drive magazine last night, and I immediately started looking for a picture of the Juice! Although there was a nice photo of a 600,000+ mile Subaru, I did miss my "juice" fix. Is is possible that Subaru of America does not yet understand the power behind "THE JUICE"?
So, does anyone have hard evidence for when the turbo 2.5 RS is coming out in the US? I've heard August, or next year.
Also, I've survived a midwest winter in a Z28 by using the Pirelli P7000 SS tires. A very good year round tire, IMO. Imagine having it on a AWD car like the 2.5 RS...
I have just checked back against the specs for the Subarus sold in Australia and it looks like the Outback Limited is the only one to get the self levelling rear end. It is not air suspension which I think is available in some markets but must operate on some form of ratchet mechanism. When the car is loaded, the rear drops as normal. After about half a mile, the movement of the springs gets the rear evened up again. This, together with the low ratio box makes the Outback limited very good for towing.
I will see if I can turn up anything more technical.
So this is where everyone has been hanging out! I was out for a few days and was suprised to see so few posts in the former topics. Then I noticed the note from Karen about the owner's club being open... Glad to know the owner's club is up and running. This is cool!
As for the self-leveling suspension, I believe it is only available for Subarus in Japan and Australia. There is supposedly a mechanism in the rear shocks that uses the forward motion of the car to drive oil pressure to level the shocks. That's why when you stop, the rear goes back down. Subaru didn't bring it to the US due to cost considerations (so they say).
Haven't seen a post on it, and I was just wondering about other folks' take on it. It also might be worth mentioning for the non-Subie owners who have test driven a 2000 Legacy/Outback this year and who might have been turned off by the "soft" "mushy" feel of the brakes that some others have also expressed concern about. Maybe SOA has heard some people and have addressed the issue. Below is retyped, as verbatim as my fat fingers will allow, the 1st paragraph from a recall letter I received from Subaru regarding my 2000 Outback...letter dated March 31, 2000.
"Subaru has determined that a small number of 2000 model year Legacy vehicles may have been equipped in production with an incorrect master cylinder that may give the driver a feeling of a slightly lower break pedal. Although the pedal stroke may be somewhat longer, *there is no effect whatsoever on breaking performance* (bold print, there). Nevertheless, in the interest of customer satisfaction, Subaru will install a correct specification master cylinder in affected vehicles at no charge to owners."
Not too thrilled about the recall, but I still love my car, and just felt that those who have expressed concerns about this might take some heart in seeing that SOA has come up front on this. It might not be the same issue that many people have discussed here as perhaps the brake feel of these cars is just naturally softer than what they were accustomed to on other vehicles (I know they are for me, but I prefer the feel, actually). On the other hand, it seems that it might be an issue for those who were (or *are*) totally turned off by it.
Interesting, it's not yet in the NHTSA Recall Database. I found 1 entry for the 2000 Subaru: the anti-rust coating was applied incorrectly on 13 Legacy L-model sedans. Thanks for the notice, Bill.
I'm working w/Karen to migrate the folks in Station Wagons and SUV over here, so this is the preferred place. Then we'll have all the enthusiasts in one place and increase the number of people who can answer questions (strength in numbers, I guess).
I poked around a bit searching for alternatives. There is a place in Wisconsin that sells Igloo and Coleman thermocouple-based coolers, and a different place here in CA. Both are on the web and both do mail order. The prices vary a bit; the WI place is cheaper for the high-end Coleman, which has a thermostat, while the one in CA is cheaper for the others.
Anyway, I have a few concerns:
- The ones that lack thermostats might get things TOO cold when it is cool out. Do they?
- The one with the thermostat is a huge (40qt) Coleman, bigger than I want. Are there smaller ones with thermostats? (Maybe I should wait until one of the manufacturers "invents" that.)
- Some say "40 F below ambient", some say "46 F"; are they all about the same, or is the 6 degrees difference in claim significant? (Note that in 90-degree weather, a -40 change only brings you down to 50 F, not really cold enough, especially if you are applying this during the day and hoping to keep things cold overnight while you are parked. -46 brings you down to 44 F, which is still a bit warm, but far better.)
- What size is the one from Subaru? It looks (in photos) like the 32 qt Igloo model.
- Are there any advantages to the Igloo over the Coleman or vice versa?
This is a question again about tires, I have a 98 Forester S model with stock aluminum rims and snow tires right now. I'm planning on buying a good set of all season tires for summer (it does snow here in June July and August) and mount the snow tires on a set of steel rims, I was wondering if 225-60R-16 tires will fit. I noticed that there is not much room for the back strut but was thinking the extra 5mm shouldn't be that bad, It would be great if someone could shed some light on this for me. I'm glad I've taken my time shopping for new tires it snowed 6 inches in the last day here.
PS I watched a little supped up CRX get stuck in 3 inches of snow on a very slight grade, and people laugh at my station wagon, well I know who laughs last.
I just talked to the dealer and they said 225-60R-16 would fit, anyone willing to back up the guy on the phone that said "Yea, sure 225's should fit"?? I know Juice has researched this quite well, any input?
Are your snow tires 215R16-60 or 225's? Are you planning on 215s on a 225 Rim?
I don't have a lot of experience with plus sizing, but I know for a fact that the Forester L tires (205R15-70) actually have a larger diameter than the S tires if you do the math.
BTW, did you mean CR-V when you wrote "CRX"? Was it a 2WD CR-V?
Comments
http://www.unorthodoxracing.com
Click on the pulley section as well as the FAQ and they give a decent overview of their pulleys and how they work. As was noted above, they are smaller than stock, so your accessories will spin slower. UR says that generally no one will notice as they only do about 15% underdriving. They are also much lighter, which means your engine doesn't have to work as hard and thus gains HP. Finally, you can check out http://www.zerosports.co.jp for some Japanese Subaru pulleys, including for A/C and alternator.
Thanks for the nice comments on my pics. They are from SE Oregon, near Leslie Gulch, Succor Creek, and Rome.
Dave
Join us here for discussions with owners, prospective owners, enthusiasts, and hopefully some direct input from Subaru's marketing arm.
We'll try to keep this forum informative and interesting, which shouldn't be hard given the tone of most Subaru topics at Edmunds.
Thanks for joining us.
-juice, AKA ateixeira, but please call me "juice"
'98 Subaru Forester L 5-speed
I look forward to this forum with great enthusiasm as I've enjoyed many enlightening posts in the other Subaru forums here on Edmund's.
As background, my first Subaru was a 91 Legacy L+ wagon. My current ride (wife's actually; sometimes I get to drive it
..Mike Smith (miksmi) Silver Spring MD USA
..Mike
Stevev1
90 Legacy LS
2000 Forester S
-juice
I'm in!
99 Impreza RS
currently a 2K OB LTD, last a 9 Forester L and before that a 90 Legacy (Front wheel drive)
Vince14
Congrats on your Owners Club status!
KarenS
Edmunds.com Town Hall Host
Manny
Y2K Forester L
I have some recollection of a phrase like "stoichiometric efficiency" which refers, I think to the efficiency with which the fuel air mixture is burned. I guess this may have been a function of the old carburetor fed systems but may not apply to the same extent on electronic fed systems where the efficiency can be monitored and altered.
Against the efficient fuel usage of the engine, the wind resistance rises, I think as a function of the square of the speed and friction and other losses probably rise linearly. There is probably some minima for all of the forces which means there is a genuine most efficient fuel usage point/speed for each car type.
I know that each car I have owned has had an apparent "natural speed" which the car would tend to settle at when driven long distance on freeway type roads with no other cars around and the throttle tamped as little as possible.
Does anyone have any ideas on this?
Cheers
Graham
And my car seems to naturally settle in about 5-10 MPH over the speed limit, whatever that may be.
-Colin
But at this point (still shopping) he's thinking NOTHING of paying $5,000+ for a vehicle with 85,000 miles or more. I realize that Subaru engines can last a really long time, and that might be an okay deal... but with the volume of these cars on the road, might he not get a better deal than that?
Also, he's a bit short on cash (aren't most 21 year olds) and I keep telling him a vehicle, any vehicle, with that many miles might be looking at a lot of standard repairs. Spark plugs, fuel injectors, brakes, clutches...
What's a good price on a Sub, about 5-8 years old with more than 80,000 miles? When does the clutch go?
Advice? Thanks.!
The older Subarus with the 2.2L engines had smaller clutches. When they first went to the 2.5L engines they left the smaller clutch in, at least on the Forester, which turned out to be a problem. So it may depend on engine vintage as well.
Make sure that if the car has the 60,000 mile timing belt, it got replaced at 60,000 miles. (Or is it 90,000? Mine is 105,000 in my Forester, so I forget what they used to be.) When they have/had the engine open for this they should check the condition of the oil pump as well.
For prices on used cars, look at the "used car" price ranges right here on Edmunds, and also on the Kelly blue book pages (www.kbb.com). The "retail" values are useful to know for your own negotiation.
Chris
I currently own a 98 Forester I just bought and
a 87 GL wagon 4x4 which I'm trying to sell,
For anyone out there who owns an older subaru thats primarly from wheel drive with 4-wheel assist the new AWD system is amazing and you can really feel the difference. Plus the larger engines are really head and shoulders above the old 1.8L. I just hope that I can drive the Forester for 325K with no major repairs.
On the Forester (S) I'm currently looking for a good set of tires to put on for the summer months because the car came with winter tires on it, and was wondering what kind of tire I should be looking at for mainly summer driving with some minor gravel roads and mountain driving in western Canada, thanks for the input and we need more people to post here
Stephen
I tend to get 25-28 mpg on trips, but how it varies has more to do with the amount of weight I'm carrying and drag (higher when I use the soft cargo carrier).
I touched 30mpg once on an all highway trip by myself, but speeds were around 75mph. Not bad with today's gas prices.
I'm driving to New York (third time in the Soob!) on Tuesday, with 4 passengers plus luggage. Lots of luggage, have you ever seen a Brazilian go shopping in New York? I expect about 25 mpg, but I'll keep you guys posted, as usual.
Cookie: well cared for Subarus typically last. 80k is really nothing. A few buddies have hit 200k, and iSR has a quarter million mile club with several photos. Check the papers, and have a mechanic do a once-over. The newer Impreza and Legacy models are all best bets in used cars, according to Consumer Reports.
Stephen: good question, but it's a tough one. Summer tires are very sporty, with soft tread and stiff sidewalls. They stick like glue, but don't last, and are good in rain but awful in snow and off road.
Off road tires usually have taller profile and soft sidewalls, since you want that flex off road.
You may need a skizophrenic tire to do both. I recommend you get a new set of wheels and mount summer tires on them. Then mount new snow or off-road tires on your current set.
Otherwise, it's comprosise with a good all-season tire. The Desert Duelers are great in the snow, but not good in wet braking, and only ok in dry handling. I'm changing them, since I don't venture too far from pavement.
-juice
If we're just talking summer driving and some dirt and gravel roads, then I'd recommend the Yokohama AVS Intermediate. Good in the rain (until nearly bald, no surprise there) and tread pattern allows for decent gravel grip but stay out of deep mud. Very scary in cold weather of any kind.
The stock tires on my Impreza are actually fairly competent on gravel... Bridgestone Potenza RE92 v-rated. Unfortunately their tarmac performance (dry and wet) is so lame I wouldn't recommend them to anyone, especially considering the price.
Good luck!
-Colin
I currently have a Miata but I'm looking to get
a Forester in the next month or so. I hope I
can contribute more in the near future but for
now I'll have to defer to all you knowledgeable
Subaru folks out there.
One comment I found interesting while doing a
little car research was about the Forester having
mushy/soft brakes. I guess it's all relative
because the brakes in the two Foresters I test-
drove (2000 and 2001) were much firmer than in
my Miata. However, I did test-drive a Passat
wagon and the brakes were so touchy that I felt
like I was just learning how to drive again!
Anyway, any comments on the colors for the 2001
Forester S with the moonroof package (black,
white, silver, red)? I've only had a green car
so I'm kind of stuck on what to go with but I am
leaning towards silver. Any problems to be aware
of?
Cheers,
Shane.
(San Jose, CA)
ps. Now that there's a Subaru-specific
conference, maybe 'Subaru' should be
added to the Spellcheck dictionary.
If anyone at all knows who imports Zero Sports Subaru parts (click below) please let me know, thanks! http://www.zerosports.co.jp/indexa.html
Dave
(Also see Subaru Performance topic in Aftermarket and Accessories #446)
Chris
A word of thanks for overseeing the new site! Your comments in the past have been very helpful, to the point and with a touch of good humor.
I hope all who avail themselves of the new site exercise the good judgement both of you have shown. It's refreshing to find an "adult" effort these days.
My wife ('97 Imprezza) and I ('96 Outback) are strong advocates of Subaru, especially here in Illinois. Neither car has given us the least bit of trouble and other than routine maintenance, they "visit" the dealership for washes! I've owned an SVX which I traded in on the Outback as my wife and I are avid bicyclists and we couldn't feel secure knowing the bikes were on the back of the coupe. The SVX was probably one of the best cars I ever owned and that one also has no problems in the 50,000 plus miles.
The next wqgon will most likely be a 2001 Outback with the H6 sometime later this year.
Juice and Mike...keep up your great work!
Don
Thanks for your help.
In the greater Chicago area, it seems as if you can purchase Outback Ltd wagons for approximately $2,500 under MSLP. At least, this is what the ads show. You may be able to strike a "better" deal, especially if you purchase a 2000 model just at the time the 2001 is introduced. Expected date is around September.
Price often is a function of the number of dealers in your area. Here, we have nearly 12 within 25-30 miles of Chicago.
If you live anywhere near here, I'd be glad to make introductions for you.
Anyhow, I hope this helps prospective buyers. As my father so wisely told me years ago, if you think you got a good deal then you did as there will always be someone else who got better.
Stephen
Stephen
Stephen
Don: Thanks for joining us. Regarding the "adult" effort, you must be referring to juice. Regarding to the point, I KNOW you were talking about juice.
Chris: A Liberty (you think) in the parking lot? Cool. Low-range transmission and other good stuff we don't get.
Drew: You're informative posts (and photos) are always welcome!
Dave: I think you created the performance topic about the same time Bonnie was setting up the topics here. juice and I suggested Subaru Crew - Modifications (Topic #16) to discuss modifications and performance in this part of Edmund's to put all the Subaru topics under one roof, so people wouldn't have to hunt around for the all the Subaru threads. No problem having both.
As I know you'd like to enhance your Outback (and in case I haven't already mentioned it), you might find i Club -- North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club interesting. The site was founded by Impreza 2.5 RS owners but it's a helpful site as much of the Impreza, Legacy, and Outback platform are similar, including the Phase II engine and much of the suspension (e.g., Impreza sway bars fit the Legacy and vice versa). Also see the Legacy Forum on i Club. Warning: Not all i Club posters are courteous (read: mature; i.e., research before you post and don your flame suit).
And while we're on the subject of sites I would be remiss if I didn't mention the best compendium of Subaru sites I've ever seen, Gordon Diamant's Sube-Directory. Gordon is the man.
Anyone else have withdrawal yesterday while Edmund's was down? I know my productivity skyrocketed.
..Mike Smith Silver Spring MD USA
..Mike
http://www.fhi.co.jp/subaru/maic0201.htm
pahill- Never go down from list, alway work up from cost. Use the cost figures here at Edmunds, which are almost 100% accurate, except for freight (off by $4) and see below. Know the costs of each option you want and may have to take. Take the total cost with options at cost, add the freight, and negotiate a fair amount above that amount that you're comfortable with. The range posted here has been from below cost to 3% aove, depending on the time and area purchased. Try several dealers . Good luck.
P.S. Woodgrain trim for doors is shown at Edmunds and elsewhere at $100 list. Subie window stickers show it as a $200 list option. So, is the price per side? Does anyone know? Has anyone else experienced their front bumper (2K OB only) spliting a bit at the seam? Mine is.
Vince14
Cheers
Graham
The search goes on!!
Patty
Justin
Mike
..Mike
Also, I've survived a midwest winter in a Z28 by using the Pirelli P7000 SS tires. A very good year round tire, IMO. Imagine having it on a AWD car like the 2.5 RS...
I will see if I can turn up anything more technical.
Cheers
Graham
As for the self-leveling suspension, I believe it is only available for Subarus in Japan and Australia. There is supposedly a mechanism in the rear shocks that uses the forward motion of the car to drive oil pressure to level the shocks. That's why when you stop, the rear goes back down. Subaru didn't bring it to the US due to cost considerations (so they say).
Anyway, good to be here!
Ken
Black 98 Forester S, 5-speed
Mike
..Mike
-Colin
"Subaru has determined that a small number of 2000 model year Legacy vehicles may have been equipped in production with an incorrect master cylinder that may give the driver a feeling of a slightly lower break pedal. Although the pedal stroke may be somewhat longer, *there is no effect whatsoever on breaking performance* (bold print, there). Nevertheless, in the interest of customer satisfaction, Subaru will install a correct specification master cylinder in affected vehicles at no charge to owners."
Not too thrilled about the recall, but I still love my car, and just felt that those who have expressed concerns about this might take some heart in seeing that SOA has come up front on this. It might not be the same issue that many people have discussed here as perhaps the brake feel of these cars is just naturally softer than what they were accustomed to on other vehicles (I know they are for me, but I prefer the feel, actually). On the other hand, it seems that it might be an issue for those who were (or *are*) totally turned off by it.
Hope it helps.
Mike
..Mike
Also, didn't realize the other forums were still open, and this might not be the appropriate place for the post...accept apologies.
..Mike
Anyway, I have a few concerns:
- The ones that lack thermostats might get things TOO cold when it is cool out. Do they?
- The one with the thermostat is a huge (40qt) Coleman, bigger than I want. Are there smaller ones with thermostats? (Maybe I should wait until one of the manufacturers "invents" that.)
- Some say "40 F below ambient", some say "46 F"; are they all about the same, or is the 6 degrees difference in claim significant? (Note that in 90-degree weather, a -40 change only brings you down to 50 F, not really cold enough, especially if you are applying this during the day and hoping to keep things cold overnight while you are parked. -46 brings you down to 44 F, which is still a bit warm, but far better.)
- What size is the one from Subaru? It looks (in photos) like the 32 qt Igloo model.
- Are there any advantages to the Igloo over the Coleman or vice versa?
Chris
Manny
PS I watched a little supped up CRX get stuck in 3 inches of snow on a very slight grade, and people laugh at my station wagon, well I know who laughs last.
Thanks Folks
Stephen
Thanks
Stephen
Are your snow tires 215R16-60 or 225's? Are you planning on 215s on a 225 Rim?
I don't have a lot of experience with plus sizing, but I know for a fact that the Forester L tires (205R15-70) actually have a larger diameter than the S tires if you do the math.
BTW, did you mean CR-V when you wrote "CRX"? Was it a 2WD CR-V?