I put them on about two months ago. In the foot of snow we got recently, they were unbelieveable. No problem on hills, etc. You should be happy with them.
My rims are 15x8". They work fine. If you look at the tire specs for different tires makers some have 235-70-15 fitting up to 7.5" rims while others say 8". The Bridgestones work great, this is my second year using them. Rick
I sent an eMail to TireRack.com asking about tire interchangability. I want to change from "LT" to "P" tires to improve the ride/handling. The stiffer sidewalls of the "LT" tires makes for a rough ride. The "LT" tires are ONLY needed if one hauls around a lot of heavy weight.
Here is the info that TireRack.com gave me;
The appropriate sizes approved for use on your truck: 245/70-16 diameter 29.5" 265/70-16 diameter 30.6" 265/75-15T diameter 30.6" 235/75-15 diameter 28.9" 31X10.50-15 diameter 30.5"
Do not forget that it is the OUTER diamator that is extreemly important. Your speedometer and ABS brakes are 'tuned' to the existing 'rotations-per-mile' of the tires that came with your truck. If you alter the outer diamator, you may be inviting an ABS brake failure. (read the shop manual yourself 8-)
I've been running the +4s in my 4.7 auto quad for the past year (10k miles). I'm beginning to notice a little stumble in the idel speed. I'm going to pull the plugs and take a look at them, maybe this weekend? Too many conflicting stories.
Are cleaning the throttle body and IOC something the non-mechanically inclined could do easily? If yes could you summarize? If no, are they procedures worth paying a mechanic for vs. injector cleaner? If injector cleaner alone is satisfactory, any product recomendations and how often?
Have you experienced this problem? Just curious if your's has not had this problem and you're attributing it to the throttle body and Idle Air Compensator cleaning.
I've noticed a couple of posts here regarding 4.7 idle quality but I can't find anyone around locally that's had this problem. I even asked my service manager at the dealership and he said they had a used Grand Cherokee they had taken in for trade that exhibited this condition, but as yet it's not been a problem in any trucks they've sold.
Mine idles very well at 4800 miles, I think, but I use Mobil gas exclusively. Mobil probably uses more detergents chemicals.
This morning I started my truck up and popped the hood to do a routine look see. When I placed my head just inside the Engine compartment on the drivers side I noticed a tick,tick,tick,tick noise from what appeared to be the top of the engine. After the engine warmed up it seemed to dissapear. One of the possible causes of noisy valves according to the BOB is over/under filling oil. After a previous discussion on this board I decided to add a full 6 qts of oil which brought the level on the dipstick over the full mark. Just wondering if this in normal on a cold engine or if I should start looking into some other causes. (bpeebles) You are correct on the axle fluid designation. After reviewing my maintenance logs it was the 75W90 that already has the friction modifier in it. I dont have a LSD but I dont think the additive is hurting anything. Thanks...John
I'm from the old school that would tell you that this ticking noise isn't "normal." However, I'm not a service manager!
That little bit of humor aside, I've seen new engines that exhibited some valve lifter noise (usually from the lifter collapsing or bottoming out) and after some miles this would go away. You didn't state how many miles were on this vehicle, but I gather from the way you prsented this in your note that this noise is relatively new.
If it is a valve lifter noise, yes, over and under oil level could be the cause. Especially overfilled, which by the way, is not at all a benign condition for an engine. Most engines are designed to allow a margin of overfilling, just in case, but I'm not familar with the 4.7 in this respect. It depends on how much you've over filled it.
For safety sakes -- and piece of mind -- I'd suggest draining some oil out at starting there.
(jhorl) That is the ticking of a pump. The pump is rubber-mounted on the firewall just above the engine on the drivers side. (It has several hoses coming out of it.) If you hold the pump in your hand, you will feel it 'thump' each time you hear a tick.
The EEC tests are run based on a complicated algorythim. Basically, a small pressure is built up in the gas tank and then sealed... the ability to hold pressure is tested. (This is why a loose gascap will throw an error and light the engine lamp.)
That ticking should only last for 3-8 minues after starting engine (an empty tank takes longer to build a pressure)....
PLEASE REFER TO PAST POSTS THAT EXPLAIN THIS IS FULL DETAIL (or read the factory service manual)
Just picked up my truck from the shop for the second time for a annoying ticking noise in the cab. The first time they said it was a leaking exhaust manifold (nope), second try they said there was a TSB out for a slight ticking noise people where complaining about. Just got off the phone with the tech that fixed it, he said the TSB called for him to take the ground off of the fire wall on the passenger side of the vehicle strip off about 2in of shielding and reinstall. Seems to have worked it didn't make a sound the whole way home. Kinda a weird thing to cause a ticking noise in the cab, but hey if it works.
(ronslakie) That is ONLY for the 2000 models. That is the "famous" ticking noise problem that was corrected with a TSB action. (stripping the wire.)
Basically, there was a poor ground connection to the frame. I went beyond the TSB on my 2000 Dak. I pulled ALL the grounds, scraped to bare metal on the body, solderd the wires to the crimp-on connectors.
I currently have 15" wheels with 235/75R15 Pirelli Scorpion AT (nice riding, but fast wearing) on my 4WD CC, but have bought new 16" wheels and was wondering what is the largest tire size I could go with without experiencing any rubbing on the frame or wheel well. I am considering 265/75R16 and am interested in knowing if anyone else has experience with this size tire? BTW, I have found the wheel and tire calculator at http://www.dakota-truck.net/TIRECALC/tirecalc.html to be very helpful.
Tried listening to mine but I don't hear it. If I touch it I can feel it energizing.
The item described is the EVAP Purge Solenoid. It is controlled by the PCM and has a cycle rate of 5 or 10 pulses per second during operation. It should only be energizing during closed loop operation, which is after the engine reaches a certain temperature and a time delay period has ended. The time delay occurs after re-start of a warm or hot engine. It should not be operating immediately after a cold start.
I'm suspecting that the EVAP solenoid is probably functioning okay, but has become noisy for some reason.
The "famous" ticking problem on the early 2000 models is one thing.
The ticking as heard from the pressure pump that is part of the evap tests is another thing alltogether. BTW... the evap pump DOES run after a cold startup. There is an algorythim that dictates when it will run. Please refer to the DC shop manual for details.
Okay. I think there's a problem with nomenclature.
The 2003 "AN" service manual refers to the component that's mounted on the firewall as the EVAP/Purge Solenoid. This device regulates vapor flow between the EVAP canister and the engine's intake manifold.
You appear to be describing what the service manuals refers to as the Leak Detection Pump. This is mounted on the underside of the battery tray. It's purpose is to detect and monitor the evaporative system for leaks. It contains a 3-port solenoid, a pump, switch, 2 check valves and a diaphragm. You are correct according to the service manual, the the pump operates at cold start and at engine temperatures between 40-86 F. The initial pump cycle is high and gradually drops to a low rate as pressure builds. When the system has been pressurized to 7.5 inches of water, the pump is stopped.
Interestingly, there are two different evaporative control versions used on the Dakota series. There is a second version that utilizes ORVR (On-board Refueling Vapor Recovery). This contains a unique fuel tank that uses a check valve built into it and an outboard Flow Management Valve. Vapors are collected at the time the vehicle is refueled and later purged to the engine. Vehicles that have this ORVR will have a fuel fill cap with stainless steel threads. Plastic threads indicate that the vehicle does not have ORVR. ORVR is not used with 4-door Dakota's in 2003.
......is running like a Swiss watch so far. Just turned 5000 miles. Probably too early to uncover any weaknesses anyway's.
I will say the 545RFE in this truck performs exceptionally well. It is the smoothest, most reactive transmission I've ever owned and I would say the best in any truck I've ever driven. The brakes are great. Smooth as glass. Much better than the brakes on any GM truck I've owned. I think the rotor problems have been resolved.
The idle is fine, too. Of course, I've been paying close attention to that because that's one of those things I'm anal about. There have been a few times I thought there was a bump in the idle. Yesterday we had very low temps here and strong winds. After I left my daughters house, at the first stoplight I thought I noticed a very slight bumpiness. At the next light it was completely smooth. So I don't know. I've asked my service manager if idle complaints have been a problem and he said they had one used '01 Grand Cherokee with a 4.7 that had poor idle quality. But not any Dakotas.
One thing I realized. What I thought was an idle bump occasionally turns out to be the fuel in the gas tank sloshing back and forth after a hard stop. It doesn't do it when the tank is full, or after its below 1/3 tank. Must not have enough baffles, or something. But you can feel it through the body.
I was never very good at math either. But LOGIC is somthing I can visualize in detail.
Being a professional computer-programmer by trade, I do not view algorithms as "math".
An algorithm to me is simply a repeatable decesion-tree based on logic. (ie... if engine is above 40F and below 86F and the test has not been run in the last 5 "trips" ... then run the test.)
THIS IS JUST AN EXAMPLE... the actual algorithm is more complicated. There is an entire section in the manual defining what a successful "trip" is.
I ran the instrument cluster test the other day just to see how it worked. One thing I couldn't find is any mention of how to get codes out of the PCM. On our '89 Acclaim all you had to do was switch the ignition switch on and off five times and a lamp on the instrument cluster would flash out the codes. This doesn't seem to work on my Dakota.
(dustyk) From memory.. I believe the emissions control section has the definition of a 'trip'.
Basically, a successful 'trip' must start with the engine BELOW a certain temp, the engine must reach a specific temp and remain ABOVE that for a given time before being shut down. (It is more complicated than that but you get the idea.)
I know of no way to 'pull' codes from a Dodge vehicle without connecting to the proper engine computer. However, there are specific codes that will show during the "tripple keyswitch" test if a failure has occoured in the last 50 successful trips.
For example... if your MIL lamp comes on ... the "tripple keyswitch" test should show you the code that caused the fault. (try leaving your gascap loose... this will throw a fault)
I have a 2001 QC, SLT-Plus, 4x4, 4.7L with almost 41,000 miles. Within the last two weeks the fuel gauge has not been working properly. I started noticing the problem after a fill up that it would take a long time for the needle to move all the way to the right. The DTE reading on the computer moved up at the same slow rate. Now after I fill the tank it jumps all over the place, even pinged to the left on empty forcing the low fuel light to come on. Has anyone experienced this problem or know what may be going on?
Other than this issue, I have had no problems with this truck. I put Bosch +4 spark plugs in at 30,000 and Powerslot rotors with ceramic pads at 36,000. I was surprised to see that the original pads and rotors were still in pretty good shape.
You can run a diagnostic test on the instrument cluster. This will illuminate every appropriate indicator lamp and exercise the gauges. During the gauge test the fuel gauge needle will be moved to several calibration points on the fuel gauge scale in a test sequence (this is also true for the other gauges). The needle(s) should move to each approximate 1/3rd position.
To enter the instrument cluster test:
1. Press on the odometer/trip button. 2. Switch the ignition switch to the "on" position, but do not start the engine. 3. Hold the button depressed for 10 seconds or until the CHEC message appears in the odometer display. 4. Release the button.
The test will start with the indicator lamp exercise. Observe the indicator lamps and gauge movement closely. If there is a problem with the instrument cluster circuitry, there will be a 3-digit fault code displayed. Note the code.
Because of the way you describe the problem, I'm thinking your problem is not in the gauge or instrument cluster, but either a fuel sending unit or associated wiring problem.
mtrialsm - I have extended warranties on my 2K Dak and another vehicle from Warranty Direct www.warrantydirect.com Although I haven't had to use them yet, I have heard good things about them from others. They offer 3 levels of coverage (Gold, Silver and Platinum). I have the Platinum with zero deductible for 7 years or 100K miles at about half the cost of MOPAR. My research indicated 2 big advantages with Warranty Direct; first you can go to the repair place of your choice (not limited to Dodge dealership), second the time period for the coverage of the warranty begins when you sign the contract and not when the vehicle was put in service. This last feature does not appear to be available from any of the other warranty companies I have come across.
If your looking at extra warranty after the std 3/36 is up, beware! The cost goes up a lot, and the total miles covered goes down. I have received several phone calls and letters in the mail trying to get me to sign up for more (my truck is 3 years old with 56K miles) and I have just laughed at these guys when they try to explain to me why I should spend $2,000 for ~50K miles of extra warranty. After 56K miles I still haven't taken the truck in once! I'm certainly not going to shell out $2K. When they ask me how much I would be willing to pay. I tell them $750 and they hang up on me.
Trucks and cars are like rolling dice. Buy ten of the same exact vehicle and drive them the same and none will probably have the same repair histories. A certain percentage will experience problems due to poor design, poor assembly or component quality. Some percentage won't. That's why a little investigation is required.
I wouldn't have even considered a Dakota five or six years ago. But I believe Dakota quality has vastly improved in all aspects, and I now own a 2003. I'm electing to forego the extended warranty. Two-thousand dollars is a gamble, and I'm willing to see how far this Dakota goes (I keep my vehicles 10+ years). I can buy a fair amount of repairs for $2000 dollars. I'd feel even worse if that's what I paid and didn't have any trouble.
If you need the sense of security, put a little extra away each month in your savings account for those unanticipated repairs. They wanted $1400 for an extended warranty on my '93 Sentra. After 10 years and 106,000 miles my TOTAL maintenance and repairs came to $1096. And that included a oil changes, tune-ups, and a set of tires.
I have had several manufacturer type warranties and one insurance type warranty over the years. The only one I had problems with was the insurance type warranty. I had a Nissan Maxima and the sunroof wouldn't close right, was told it was an adjustment and they wouldn't cover it! Only problem I had with the Maxima in 5 years. I've had 4 cars total with sunroofs and all four had problems over the years. In my opinion if you have a Japanese car the warranty is an unnecessary expense. Based on my Dakota an extended warranty may also be an unnecessary expense as well. Almost 3 years without a trip to the dealer. We also have 3 Neons in the family and I wouldn't own one of those without an extended warranty. 2 of the 3 have had head gasket failures just after the basic warranty ran out. The 2 99 Neons have also had numerous problems with the sun roof and power windows. The 3rd is a 2002 so it hasn't gotten the miles yet and was ordered without a sunroof. I got the maximum care Chrysler extended warranty for a few dollars over $1,000, it has a $50 deductable and covers the Neon for 7 years or 1000,000 miles. It also includes rental cars and trip interruption coverage among other benefits.
I would personally prefer the Chrysler warranty. The cost of the warranty is negotiable and does not have to be purchased from the dealer you bought your truck at either. When I bought my Quad in 2002 the dealer cost was 1/2 the retail price of the extended warranty. It was included at dealer cost with the Quad purchase as part of the negotiations. I prefer the Chrysler warranty also because I feel the dealer is the best place (generally) to have a Dodge serviced because they have the tools and training that most independent garages don't have. Please keep in mind these are my opinions. I am sure there are some superior independent garages and some excellent insurance type warranty plans. Rick
This is my first Dodge, 2 yrs., 21k miles no major problems. I hope to keep this truck for 10 yrs. also. Our other vehilces have been Toyota or Nissan. Yes no problems at 100K miles on them. My Dakota came with the 3/36 coverage. I've got a price thru www.chryslerwarranty.com (a Chrysler dealer), 84mo/75K, $50 deductable for $1135.00 this is the "added care plan". This plan RETAILS for $1600.00 from Chrysler, it's the same plan. I'm sure the dealer costs is about $800.00. I purchased the Quad because it is the best overall vehicle for us, it's a GREAT truck. WE love it, but would feel better over the coming years with some kinda warranty. Minor problems I'm having, include; popping front end/steering, low speed stumble, popping noise sometimes from rear of truck going over bumps? I'm making a lists for the dealer. Thanks. mm
I've read in here this problem and references to the sway bar bushings, if I remember correctly. I have heard a loud pop twice when first starting the vehicle rolling in the morning and it appears to have come from the rear of the vehicle. Since it's only done it twice, I've attributed it to ice getting between the box and the bedliner (the noise sounded like it was just behind the rear window).
My Club Cab has both front and rear sway bars.
Is this just a problem on 4x4s or does it affect 4x2s as well?
I own a 2001 Quad 4x2, w/popping in the front and a few times from the rear area. I don't have a bed liner or live with ice/snow. The popping is not dependent on the weather. My step daughter just traded her 2000 4x4 Quad for a 2003, you guessed it, also popping noises. So Dodge still hasn't "fixed" it. Just live with it? She put 45K miles on the 2000, front brake rotors wore out, rear seal went out just before trade. No other problems. mm
Thanks for the info. I wish I could develop a pattern for this problem, but it's only done it twice. Nothing I do intentionally seems to repeat the symptom.
This has happened twice in the last week. Cold weather in the 20s. First time I used the turn signals they stopped working. Started working again about 15 minutes later. This morning, going to store, the radio cut off and the turn signals didn't work. I banged the steering wheel (@#$%), and all started working again. I hate intermittent problems,,,,I know that this would be very difficult for the service dept. to trouble shoot. I'm sure it's a bad/loose/cold solder joint that is acting up in the cold. Anyone esle with this problem? Mick
Drive a 2001 SLT CC with 4.7L. Not looking to build a "street racer", just want a little more "OOMPH!" Already added a cold air intake from Airaid, planning to install their throttle body spacer as well. I've been told about headers and exhaust systems. Any suggestions as to make/type??? What about "controller chips" that boost horsepower and torque??
(jeffs17) Although the UPPER ball-joints MAY get loose, they tend to SQUEEK when they start to fail. The common fix is is ti replace with MOOG brand ball-joints that have greasable fittings. I have one MOOG on my Dak. The other side is still the factory part and has no problems (I check it regularly)
I have not heard of any LOWER ball joints having problems on the IFS front end that was introduced in 2000.
The "popping noise" up front has more often been traced to the anti-sway bar 'sticking' in the rubber pillow-joints. It has been fixed by some judisual use of some rubber-grease in the offending area.
My 2000 QC had the pop in the front end at about 12k when I first heard it. Dealer replaced the rubber bushings under warranty. I now have an 02 QC with about 9100 miles on it, so far no noises. Some of these trucks, including my 00 also develop popping or creeking from the rear springs. Thats been a little harder to keep away. Nick.
Ok, I greased the OEM clamp bushings but have my popping back again up front. I have been looking for polyurethane replacements but cant seem to find an application for the Dakota. I plan on replacing the clamp and end-link bushings all at once. Any one find polyurethane replacements? Otherwise, solid, tight running dak quad at 69,000 miles.
I have been reading about the warping rotors in this forum. Everyone here seems to be going the power slot route. I talked to a mechanic here in town and he says that 90% of warped rotors are due to over torqueing the lug nuts. He suggests resurfacing the rotors and add ceramic pads and I'll be fine. Is this true in the case of the Dakota's rotors. Seems that the replacement rotors at parts stores around here are ones that are similar to the oem's. They'll rust also. If the power slot rotors are installed and over torqued, will they warp also? Will these rust? Someone please explain the difference. Thank you.
Rotors most certainly can be warped by over-torquing. I had it done to several of my cars. Of course, warping can occur because of overheating, particularly from frozen calipers. That's the most common cause in my experience.
We've had a rotor warp because of direct contact with cold water while hot. This happened on our Avalon.
I've seen the rust problem. My wife had a '89 Dodge Charger that had this problem when her daily home-to-work commute was only about 2 miles.
Well for those of you that have been a member of this club for a long time (2+ years). I've talked about the incredible gas mileage that I have gotten with my 4.7L 5spd 2wd QC w/topper. Well I'm here to tell you that I'm back down with the rest of you. For the first 2 1/4 years I drove 43 miles one way to work on quite 2 lane roads. Over the 54K miles I put on my truck I averaged 22.1 miles to the gallon. My nice corporate job was eliminated last July and I found another job only 9 miles from home. Since I have started this job, I have averaged 17.6 miles to the gallon. My 9 mile drive has more than twice as many lights on mostly 4 lane roads with traffic lights every 100 yards (feels like). I can't believe how the different drive has killed my mileage!!!
(yoshio) The OEM rotors on my 2000 Dak were JUNK. after 2 years, they were rusted badly (no warpage)
I telephoned into one of the many group-buys and got some powerslots. They have a nice plating on them and are waranteed. I also installed Raybestos ceramic pads when I installed the rotors.
Just the difference in the braking was worth it!! Time will tell if they stand up to the harsh, salt-laden, roads in Vermont.
Your comments on the over-torquing of the lugnuts is valid but was ruled-out as the problem after MANY MANY people attested to the problem. (Keep in mind that I have been researching / following Dakotas since 1999)
The best explanation I have heard is that, to save money, the OEM-spec rotors were manufactured of the cheapest-possible material and WERE NOT SEASONED (heat treated) appropriately. It is IMPARITIVE that new rotors be seasoned properly if a long service-life is to be expected.
I ALWAYS season my rotors... and had no warpage. Some other folks just started driving.... and had warpage on multiple OEM rotors. (Aggressive driving habits?)
then put me in the "agressive driving habits" column! In my mind, cheapness of material is responsible for 95% of the rotor complaints. And, for the record, I did use bpeebles season techinque and nope, did not help matters. The rotors were warped again when I traded the Dak in. I never did go with the powerslots, there were too many other issues that soured me on the truck after 2 years of headaches. However, if I had kept it, powerslots would have been put on there after the fourth set of NAFTA sourced junk rotors were replaced.
PS.....stock rotors on the Vitara, one round trip to FL and one trip to canada.....12K on the clock and NO warped rotors or drums. Daimler Chrysler are you reading this?
Comments
Here is the info that TireRack.com gave me;
The appropriate sizes approved for use on your truck:
245/70-16 diameter 29.5"
265/70-16 diameter 30.6"
265/75-15T diameter 30.6"
235/75-15 diameter 28.9"
31X10.50-15 diameter 30.5"
Do not forget that it is the OUTER diamator that is extreemly important. Your speedometer and ABS brakes are 'tuned' to the existing 'rotations-per-mile' of the tires that came with your truck. If you alter the outer diamator, you may be inviting an ABS brake failure. (read the shop manual yourself 8-)
for the past year (10k miles). I'm beginning to
notice a little stumble in the idel speed.
I'm going to pull the plugs and take a look at
them, maybe this weekend? Too many conflicting
stories.
Have you cleaned your TB lately? (Throttle Body)
I have about 44K miles on my 2000 Dak and have cleaned the TB 2wice this far. I even pulled the IAC (Idle Air Compensator) and cleaned it once.
If you do not feel comfortable cleaning these items... at least consider running some quality injector cleaner thru the gas tank.
Let us know how this helps out....
Are cleaning the throttle body and IOC something the non-mechanically inclined could do easily? If yes could you summarize? If no, are they procedures worth paying a mechanic for vs. injector cleaner? If injector cleaner alone is satisfactory, any product recomendations and how often?
Have you experienced this problem? Just curious if your's has not had this problem and you're attributing it to the throttle body and Idle Air Compensator cleaning.
I've noticed a couple of posts here regarding 4.7 idle quality but I can't find anyone around locally that's had this problem. I even asked my service manager at the dealership and he said they had a used Grand Cherokee they had taken in for trade that exhibited this condition, but as yet it's not been a problem in any trucks they've sold.
Mine idles very well at 4800 miles, I think, but I use Mobil gas exclusively. Mobil probably uses more detergents chemicals.
Regards,
Dusty
(bpeebles) You are correct on the axle fluid designation. After reviewing my maintenance logs it was the 75W90 that already has the friction modifier in it. I dont have a LSD but I dont think the additive is hurting anything.
Thanks...John
I'm from the old school that would tell you that this ticking noise isn't "normal." However, I'm not a service manager!
That little bit of humor aside, I've seen new engines that exhibited some valve lifter noise (usually from the lifter collapsing or bottoming out) and after some miles this would go away. You didn't state how many miles were on this vehicle, but I gather from the way you prsented this in your note that this noise is relatively new.
If it is a valve lifter noise, yes, over and under oil level could be the cause. Especially overfilled, which by the way, is not at all a benign condition for an engine. Most engines are designed to allow a margin of overfilling, just in case, but I'm not familar with the 4.7 in this respect. It depends on how much you've over filled it.
For safety sakes -- and piece of mind -- I'd suggest draining some oil out at starting there.
Bests,
Dusty
The EEC tests are run based on a complicated algorythim. Basically, a small pressure is built up in the gas tank and then sealed... the ability to hold pressure is tested. (This is why a loose gascap will throw an error and light the engine lamp.)
That ticking should only last for 3-8 minues after starting engine (an empty tank takes longer to build a pressure)....
PLEASE REFER TO PAST POSTS THAT EXPLAIN THIS IS FULL DETAIL (or read the factory service manual)
Ron
Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2000 15:40:43 PST
From: "Thomas Strawderman"
Subject: DML: 00/4.7 Ticking noise
Just picked up my truck from the shop for the second time for a annoying ticking noise in the cab. The first time they said it was a leaking exhaust manifold (nope), second try they said there was a TSB out for a slight
ticking noise people where complaining about. Just got off the phone with the tech that fixed it, he said the TSB called for him to take the ground
off of the fire wall on the passenger side of the vehicle strip off about 2in of shielding and reinstall. Seems to have worked it didn't make a sound the whole way home. Kinda a weird thing to cause a ticking noise in the cab, but hey if it works.
That is the "famous" ticking noise problem that was corrected with a TSB action. (stripping the wire.)
Basically, there was a poor ground connection to the frame. I went beyond the TSB on my 2000 Dak. I pulled ALL the grounds, scraped to bare metal on the body, solderd the wires to the crimp-on connectors.
Again...That is ONLY for the 2000 models.
The item described is the EVAP Purge Solenoid. It is controlled by the PCM and has a cycle rate of 5 or 10 pulses per second during operation. It should only be energizing during closed loop operation, which is after the engine reaches a certain temperature and a time delay period has ended. The time delay occurs after re-start of a warm or hot engine. It should not be operating immediately after a cold start.
I'm suspecting that the EVAP solenoid is probably functioning okay, but has become noisy for some reason.
Regards,
Dusty
The ticking as heard from the pressure pump that is part of the evap tests is another thing alltogether.
BTW... the evap pump DOES run after a cold startup. There is an algorythim that dictates when it will run. Please refer to the DC shop manual for details.
Good Morning!
Okay. I think there's a problem with nomenclature.
The 2003 "AN" service manual refers to the component that's mounted on the firewall as the EVAP/Purge Solenoid. This device regulates vapor flow between the EVAP canister and the engine's intake manifold.
You appear to be describing what the service manuals refers to as the Leak Detection Pump. This is mounted on the underside of the battery tray. It's purpose is to detect and monitor the evaporative system for leaks. It contains a 3-port solenoid, a pump, switch, 2 check valves and a diaphragm. You are correct according to the service manual, the the pump operates at cold start and at engine temperatures between 40-86 F. The initial pump cycle is high and gradually drops to a low rate as pressure builds. When the system has been pressurized to 7.5 inches of water, the pump is stopped.
Interestingly, there are two different evaporative control versions used on the Dakota series. There is a second version that utilizes ORVR (On-board Refueling Vapor Recovery). This contains a unique fuel tank that uses a check valve built into it and an outboard Flow Management Valve. Vapors are collected at the time the vehicle is refueled and later purged to the engine. Vehicles that have this ORVR will have a fuel fill cap with stainless steel threads. Plastic threads indicate that the vehicle does not have ORVR. ORVR is not used with 4-door Dakota's in 2003.
Regards,
Dusty
Bookitty
How is everyones dak running? Idling smooth? Rotors rotating? 45RFE shifting like butter or curdled milk?
Let me know.
I will say the 545RFE in this truck performs exceptionally well. It is the smoothest, most reactive transmission I've ever owned and I would say the best in any truck I've ever driven. The brakes are great. Smooth as glass. Much better than the brakes on any GM truck I've owned. I think the rotor problems have been resolved.
The idle is fine, too. Of course, I've been paying close attention to that because that's one of those things I'm anal about. There have been a few times I thought there was a bump in the idle. Yesterday we had very low temps here and strong winds. After I left my daughters house, at the first stoplight I thought I noticed a very slight bumpiness. At the next light it was completely smooth. So I don't know. I've asked my service manager if idle complaints have been a problem and he said they had one used '01 Grand Cherokee with a 4.7 that had poor idle quality. But not any Dakotas.
One thing I realized. What I thought was an idle bump occasionally turns out to be the fuel in the gas tank sloshing back and forth after a hard stop. It doesn't do it when the tank is full, or after its below 1/3 tank. Must not have enough baffles, or something. But you can feel it through the body.
Regards,
Dusty
Being a professional computer-programmer by trade, I do not view algorithms as "math".
An algorithm to me is simply a repeatable decesion-tree based on logic. (ie... if engine is above 40F and below 86F and the test has not been run in the last 5 "trips" ... then run the test.)
THIS IS JUST AN EXAMPLE... the actual algorithm is more complicated. There is an entire section in the manual defining what a successful "trip" is.
It all depends on one's persepctive!
What section of the manual is that in?
I ran the instrument cluster test the other day just to see how it worked. One thing I couldn't find is any mention of how to get codes out of the PCM. On our '89 Acclaim all you had to do was switch the ignition switch on and off five times and a lamp on the instrument cluster would flash out the codes. This doesn't seem to work on my Dakota.
Bests,
Dusty
Basically, a successful 'trip' must start with the engine BELOW a certain temp, the engine must reach a specific temp and remain ABOVE that for a given time before being shut down. (It is more complicated than that but you get the idea.)
I know of no way to 'pull' codes from a Dodge vehicle without connecting to the proper engine computer. However, there are specific codes that will show during the "tripple keyswitch" test if a failure has occoured in the last 50 successful trips.
For example... if your MIL lamp comes on ... the "tripple keyswitch" test should show you the code that caused the fault. (try leaving your gascap loose... this will throw a fault)
Hey, thanks for the info! I found the trip tutorial in Group 25 of the service manual. Interesting way that works.
Best regards,
Dusty
Other than this issue, I have had no problems with this truck. I put Bosch +4 spark plugs in at 30,000 and Powerslot rotors with ceramic pads at 36,000. I was surprised to see that the original pads and rotors were still in pretty good shape.
Thanks
To enter the instrument cluster test:
1. Press on the odometer/trip button.
2. Switch the ignition switch to the "on" position, but do not start the engine.
3. Hold the button depressed for 10 seconds or until the CHEC message appears in the odometer display.
4. Release the button.
The test will start with the indicator lamp exercise. Observe the indicator lamps and gauge movement closely. If there is a problem with the instrument cluster circuitry, there will be a 3-digit fault code displayed. Note the code.
Because of the way you describe the problem, I'm thinking your problem is not in the gauge or instrument cluster, but either a fuel sending unit or associated wiring problem.
I hope this helps.
Best of luck,
Dusty
extended warrentee. Should I go with Chrystler
or other? What are your experiences?
mm
Ron
I wouldn't have even considered a Dakota five or six years ago. But I believe Dakota quality has vastly improved in all aspects, and I now own a 2003. I'm electing to forego the extended warranty. Two-thousand dollars is a gamble, and I'm willing to see how far this Dakota goes (I keep my vehicles 10+ years). I can buy a fair amount of repairs for $2000 dollars. I'd feel even worse if that's what I paid and didn't have any trouble.
If you need the sense of security, put a little extra away each month in your savings account for those unanticipated repairs. They wanted $1400 for an extended warranty on my '93 Sentra. After 10 years and 106,000 miles my TOTAL maintenance and repairs came to $1096. And that included a oil changes, tune-ups, and a set of tires.
Good luck,
Dusty
I would personally prefer the Chrysler warranty. The cost of the warranty is negotiable and does not have to be purchased from the dealer you bought your truck at either. When I bought my Quad in 2002 the dealer cost was 1/2 the retail price of the extended warranty. It was included at dealer cost with the Quad purchase as part of the negotiations. I prefer the Chrysler warranty also because I feel the dealer is the best place (generally) to have a Dodge serviced because they have the tools and training that most independent garages don't have. Please keep in mind these are my opinions. I am sure there are some superior independent garages and some excellent insurance type warranty plans. Rick
problems. I hope to keep this truck for 10 yrs. also. Our other vehilces have been Toyota or Nissan. Yes no problems at 100K miles on them.
My Dakota came with the 3/36 coverage. I've got a
price thru www.chryslerwarranty.com (a Chrysler dealer), 84mo/75K, $50 deductable for $1135.00
this is the "added care plan". This plan RETAILS
for $1600.00 from Chrysler, it's the same plan.
I'm sure the dealer costs is about $800.00.
I purchased the Quad because it is the best overall vehicle for us, it's a GREAT truck. WE love it, but would feel better over the coming
years with some kinda warranty.
Minor problems I'm having, include; popping front
end/steering, low speed stumble, popping noise
sometimes from rear of truck going over bumps?
I'm making a lists for the dealer.
Thanks.
mm
My Club Cab has both front and rear sway bars.
Is this just a problem on 4x4s or does it affect 4x2s as well?
Thanks,
Dusty
and a few times from the rear area.
I don't have a bed liner or live with ice/snow.
The popping is not dependent on the weather.
My step daughter just traded her 2000 4x4 Quad
for a 2003, you guessed it, also popping noises.
So Dodge still hasn't "fixed" it. Just live with it?
She put 45K miles on the 2000, front brake rotors
wore out, rear seal went out just before trade.
No other problems.
mm
Regards,
Dusty
Cold weather in the 20s. First time I used the
turn signals they stopped working. Started working
again about 15 minutes later. This morning, going
to store, the radio cut off and the turn signals
didn't work. I banged the steering wheel (@#$%),
and all started working again. I hate intermittent
problems,,,,I know that this would be very difficult for the service dept. to trouble shoot.
I'm sure it's a bad/loose/cold solder joint that
is acting up in the cold.
Anyone esle with this problem?
Mick
Regards,
Dusty
I have one MOOG on my Dak. The other side is still the factory part and has no problems (I check it regularly)
I have not heard of any LOWER ball joints having problems on the IFS front end that was introduced in 2000.
The "popping noise" up front has more often been traced to the anti-sway bar 'sticking' in the rubber pillow-joints. It has been fixed by some judisual use of some rubber-grease in the offending area.
I am telling you I HAVE A MOOG UPPER BALL JOINT ON MY 4X4 2000 DAKOTA.
The PN on my receipt is "K7242"
Thats been a little harder to keep away. Nick.
Otherwise, solid, tight running dak quad at 69,000 miles.
We've had a rotor warp because of direct contact with cold water while hot. This happened on our Avalon.
I've seen the rust problem. My wife had a '89 Dodge Charger that had this problem when her daily home-to-work commute was only about 2 miles.
Dusty
For the first 2 1/4 years I drove 43 miles one way to work on quite 2 lane roads. Over the 54K miles I put on my truck I averaged 22.1 miles to the gallon.
My nice corporate job was eliminated last July and I found another job only 9 miles from home. Since I have started this job, I have averaged 17.6 miles to the gallon. My 9 mile drive has more than twice as many lights on mostly 4 lane roads with traffic lights every 100 yards (feels like). I can't believe how the different drive has killed my mileage!!!
I telephoned into one of the many group-buys and got some powerslots. They have a nice plating on them and are waranteed. I also installed Raybestos ceramic pads when I installed the rotors.
Just the difference in the braking was worth it!! Time will tell if they stand up to the harsh, salt-laden, roads in Vermont.
Your comments on the over-torquing of the lugnuts is valid but was ruled-out as the problem after MANY MANY people attested to the problem. (Keep in mind that I have been researching / following Dakotas since 1999)
The best explanation I have heard is that, to save money, the OEM-spec rotors were manufactured of the cheapest-possible material and WERE NOT SEASONED (heat treated) appropriately. It is IMPARITIVE that new rotors be seasoned properly if a long service-life is to be expected.
I ALWAYS season my rotors... and had no warpage. Some other folks just started driving.... and had warpage on multiple OEM rotors. (Aggressive driving habits?)
In my mind, cheapness of material is responsible for 95% of the rotor complaints.
And, for the record, I did use bpeebles season techinque and nope, did not help matters. The rotors were warped again when I traded the Dak in.
I never did go with the powerslots, there were too many other issues that soured me on the truck after 2 years of headaches. However, if I had kept it, powerslots would have been put on there after the fourth set of NAFTA sourced junk rotors were replaced.
PS.....stock rotors on the Vitara, one round trip to FL and one trip to canada.....12K on the clock and NO warped rotors or drums.
Daimler Chrysler are you reading this?