Subaru Legacy/Outback "Check Engine" Light Problems

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Comments

  • birdlandfan45birdlandfan45 Member Posts: 3
    This forum has been very enlightening. I have no issue with paying for maintenance but these repeated trips with no resolution and the "deer-in-the-headlights" expressions are getting old. The catalytic convertor was replaced at 105,000 along with the two related sensors. The CEL typically comes back on within three weeks of service. Dealership has checked the codes and reset things 5 or 6 times only to have the CEL illuminate again and again and again. It's been a good car other than this annoying issue.
  • morin2morin2 Member Posts: 399
    If you've found one of the few places in the US selling real gas, please post the info on www.pure-gas.org. WI has a fair number of stations selling real gas, followed by 10 stations in AL and 9 in SC. Most states have none, a few have 1 or 2 stations. If the pump is not labelled, you cannot assume that its ethanol-free. Many states do not require pump labelling and you don't know what you're getting unless you test it yourself.
  • 4bobby4bobby Member Posts: 2
    2005 Subaru Outback 2.5 xt turbo- check engine light is on and the cruise control light is flashing. Just had a remote starter installed for Christmas-could that have caused this problem? Thanks!!
  • doggrandmadoggrandma IowaMember Posts: 144
    There are so many stations that sell real gas here in Oklahoma, that I could not begin to list all of them, and in College Station, TX, you can't buy gas with ethanol!

    We have the benefit of living in oil country! Or as they say here "earl". ;-)

    However, in Dallas, you can't find ethanol-free (real!) gas. Supposedly it's due to the air quality, but that is so bogus! Ethanol causes more pollution than real gas does. This has been a con job from the beginning.
  • morin2morin2 Member Posts: 399
    Well, now I'm jealous! I can't even get pure gas at a marina here for my boat. There are only 2 stations selling the good stuff in MD and they are 3.5 hours away. If the EPA allows 15% ethanol this summer, I'll be forced to sell my boat to someone who can afford to replace motors more often than I can.

    Ethanol reduces fuel economy, so the same amount of gas gets burned - there's no decrease in emissions. Further, there is so much demand for corn that its being planted everywhere - including where it should not and heavily fertilized. The fertilizer runs off into our waters, leading to the Chesapeake Bay, already choking on nitrogen. So the feds throw money at removing nitrogen from the Bay, and throw money in the form of subsidies to the ethanol producers, who buy the corn and drive up the prices and hire more lobbyists causing more corn to be planted & more runoff - its ridiculous. Those of us not growing corn or producing ethanol are the big losers.
  • kevin97kevin97 Member Posts: 2
    Check engine light came on (97 Outback 2.5, 201000miles) . I checked oil and trans fluid levels, both were good. As I drive the headlights, actually ALL the lights blink or dim at lower RPM's when I hit the brakes. The lights return to full brightness after a few seconds. I'm not a vehicle tech but I'm thinking alternator or maybe the battery ????
    Any thoughts are welcome.
  • doggrandmadoggrandma IowaMember Posts: 144
    Everything you say about ethanol is true, and it has even been shown to cause more respiratory problems than the emissions from real gas. Ethanol is a boondoggle supported by the farm state politicians who are beholden to huge agribusinesses like Archer Daniels Midland. In fact, there are several Illinois congress critters (from both parties!) who are demanding that the EPA stick to the schedule of requiring more ethanol in gasoline. It has nothing to do with air quality or energy policy and everything to do with politics. As usual, follow the money!

    My daughter and SIL just moved back from MD a year ago. I'll ask them if they know of any places there to buy real gas. I understand your frustration. Ethanol will eventually ruin your engine and make your vehicle perform poorly along the way. :(

    Or, you could join us here in Okieland! You wouldn't believe how much lower our cost of living is here.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    E10 is mandated here in MD, too.
  • kevin97kevin97 Member Posts: 2
    Sounds like the cooling fan isn't working. Can you see or hear it running while idleing?
  • wenderj1wenderj1 Member Posts: 5
    I am having the same problem without the remote starter!
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaMember Posts: 16,209
    Alternator. I have heard that the alternators on the 95-99 vehicles were somewhat prone to failing. I am not sure how true this is, but I replaced mine ('96 Outback) at about 200,000 miles for the same reason - it was getting so weak that it would only charge the battery at full highway speeds (RPMs above about 2500). At anything less, the lights were noticeably dimmer. If allowed to idle long enough, the battery would actually drain and the car would die.

    The good news is that the replacement part is probably about $100 and takes 20 minutes to replace (if you take a lunch break in the middle of it!).
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • birdlandfan45birdlandfan45 Member Posts: 3
    For the fourth time in the last 8 months, my wife's 2001 Subaru had to be towed. Dashboard lights flickering on and off, engine sputtering. We've run out of things to replace on this vehicle. Dealership mechanics are either clueless or criminal (or both) as once again I've gotten the deer-in-the-headlight looks. I will be ridding myself of the vehicle now and never buying another one. :sick:
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaMember Posts: 16,209
    Sounds like a bad ground connection or a short to me. Since it is affecting the entire vehicle, I suspect the main negative cable from the battery may be the place to look. Do you ever have starting issues? I had a problem with the connection on my '96 Outback at one point. It was just ever so slightly loose and it never caused problems while it was in operation, but occasionally it would not give enough juice to the alternator to crank the engine.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • birdlandfan45birdlandfan45 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for responding to my rant. Never had a starting issue with it. Until it hit 100k, it was very dependable. Since then, the chronic electrical / electronic problems have seemingly worsened despite the replacement of the alternator, catalytic converter, various sensors and numerous diagnostic tests. The CEL initially and now the other dashboard lights flicker just before it dies. Today I was told the new alternator that was installed 5 months ago is "toast." The part is covered under warranty but the labor is not. This was the final straw... I traded it today. Good riddance. Thanks again.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    It's late now but I would have suggested the single-point ground "fix" that was discussed on NASIOC a while ago.
  • yasuyasu Member Posts: 7
    I have had oxygen sensors replaced..both catylitic(spelling) replaced and this Subaru mechanic says they look like they have never been replaced and they were.. that is how I found out that this Subaru(2002) Outback has two. Every year I have to do something to the car to get it to pass inspection. I often smell a burning smell when I get out of the car and also what smells like antifreeze during the time I am driving it. Any information about these conditions and their successful conclusion would be appreciated. After reading everything on here I am very discouraged that I will get an answer. This car has been a financial nightmare for me. Any information is greatly appreciated. :cry:
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYMember Posts: 3,786
    There are so many reasons that trigger repetitive oxygen sensor and cat codes, and unfortunately some of them actually have nothing to do with failures of these components. The system looks for the most likely offender, but it can easily be tricked. Someday soon I will write up a little piece on the subject. Promise...

    You mentioned smelling antifreeze. On a hunch, but take a look at this post and my description that follows:
    jbur1, "Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions" #18529, 23 Jan 2010 1:49 pm

    If you smell antifreeze, and it is leaking internally as well as externally, it probably isn't doing a lot of good for your cats or sensors. *Maybe* there is a connection?
  • haljordan1haljordan1 Member Posts: 2
    I'm reading through the thread, but can't find anyone with my same issue. The CEL light has been coming on most of the time over the past week. The only problem I noticed prior to this development was that my winshield wash pump no longer seems to be working well - the liquid doesn't shoot out much at all (and yes - the resevoir is full!)

    Any chance these are related?

    I'm planning on taking it to the dealer unless someone has a good idea that I can try at home. I'm decent with cars - but haven't run into this problem before.
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYMember Posts: 3,786
    I'm afraid not. OBD-II is for monitoring engine performance that impacts emissions compliance. Anything that would push the emissions to 1.5X or so of the EPA certification will log a code & trigger the light. While the manufacturer does play a role in selecting sensors and the test methodology, you can be sure that windshield washer performance was not part of the monitoring plan!

    I'm constantly getting car wax into the nozzles, degrading the flow. The opening is pretty big, so try going at it with a needle or a stripped length of fine electric wire.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    If it's below freezing, you may have old fluid in there that no longer has its antifreeze capability. That's happened to me before.
  • haljordan1haljordan1 Member Posts: 2
    Thank you for the responses. I took the car to the dealer, and it was an oxygen sensor that was causing the CEL. They replaced it and its now off. Paid ~230 parts/labor

    The wiper issue was plain stupid me. Ran out. I thought I had just filled it - I will check for cracks.
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYMember Posts: 3,786
    The OEM Oxygen Sensor is around $100 for the front, $135 for the rear. Add in an hour or so for reading the code and scoping the sensor output. Good diagnostics include making sure that this is really the cause, and not something that is simply fingering it as the cause! Change the sensor, rescope to be sure it works, then test drive and read the codes again to be sure that it hasn't logged a new pending code that will throw a CEL two days from now.

    Add it up, and I'd say you are north of 2 bills!
  • frogzonefrogzone Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Outback and the check engine light has been on for a couple of years now. This year, my mechanic said that it will no longer pass emissions testing and I have to resolve the issue. His code pointed to the catalytic converter, but he said that I need to have the dealer do it because he's replaced a bunch of them and the CEL comes back on. After reading the thread above, I'm reluctant to pay $1200 to replace the catalytic converter if that is not really the problem. How will I know before spending the money? And is this a common problem? Thanks.
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYMember Posts: 3,786
    I could write a book on this subject, but don't have time to elaborate today. Basically, I personally don't like simple code readers because they tell you little, leaving you to guess what to fix. A computer scanner gives you snapshot data of the events logged at the same time surrounding the throwing of the code. Plus OBD realtime monitoring under operating conditions (plotting RPM, load, temps, throttle position, front and rear O2 sensor output voltage, etc.) provide solid data that can pinpoint the probable cause of fault. Finally, the dealer can tap directly into the O2 sensor wiring and scope the output to confirm that the wiring back to the ECM is OK. It could be an ECM mental problem, an oxygen sensor issue, an inefficient cat, or even something as simple as a temperature sensor calibration that is allowing the system to switch from open loop to closed loop too early and logging a code before the cat is fully warmed up.

    Your local mechanic is smart. Without the proper tools, he can only begin changing things and hope for the best. You'll pay more at the dealer, but they then have to warranty their work.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    All things considered both issues are resolved and you spent a lot less than I expected, so call it good. :shades:
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Yup, they only describe a symptom.

    If the cat is going bad, it still had to be something upstream that let unburned fuel pass, which clogged up the cat. A new cat may just clog up again eventually.
  • yasuyasu Member Posts: 7
    Thanks fibber 2 for your response. I look forward (hopefully before too long) to your piece that you are going to write on this subject. My 2002 has been a great snow car for me and it runs great except for that pesky CEL. I am past the point of no return financially with this car and if I could get to the bottom of it and find out what is causing this.. I would be a very happy person. Has Subaru ever ackknowledged that this is a problem? At this poiont I am not asking them to pay..just tell me what it is so I don't have to keep paying. At least on here I know that I am not alone..misery loves company..I guess. Again..many thanks for your reply.
  • dswissdswiss Member Posts: 11
    Well, frogzone, I don't want to ruin your day, but I have to tell you that I went through three new cat converters and numerous replacements of sensors, switches and even a totally new transmission at three different dealers on my Legacy. All this within the 36000mi warranty. When it hit 36000 and the CEL came on again, I sold the car. As you can tell from reading through this thread, this problem is not a maintenance issue, but a basic design flaw to which Subaru has never admitted to. I don't know if the newer models still have this issue, and I don't want to find out. I lost so much $$$ on my car that I am done with Subaru.
    good luck with yours.
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYMember Posts: 3,786
    Just another quick visit...

    (You are welcome, Yasu. I really need to stop promising an article. You'll just have to put up with occasional posts!)

    I'm not convinced that Subaru has a specific problem in this regard, but it may be true that they have either a bit more delicate system, or less useful diagnostics that impact the ability to pinpoint the cause. I'm present, but less active on the Honda boards. Plenty of very similar OBDII complaints over there. Personally, I went thru hell with the evaporative emissions system on a '97 Dodge GC for 3 years before finally getting rid of the van. I understand the frustration.

    Realize that OBDII was first introduced in 1994, but the roots of the standard (readout interface, selection of sensors to be monitored, etc.) dates back 2-3 years prior. Think for a moment about the state of computer power both under the hood, and on your desktop in 1991-1992. For me it was an 80386 PC running Win 2.0 or 3.0. Most cars still had carbs or throttle body injection. Pretty darn crude! The "P0" codes - those mandated by the EPA were locked in then. That is all that your handheld code reader tells you about!

    Manufactures are free to add their own proprietary P1 codes, but you must have a manufacturers specific add-on to be able to view and interpret those. Only well equipped shops have the resources for that. Then there are the Transmission, Airbag, Controlling Network (much newer cars), and others that very few of us can read out. Some mfgrs have added hundreds of extra readouts. Last time I looked, Subaru was rather light in this area. The net is that this limitation may make it harder to diagnose and pin down the cause of a fault.

    Another aspect is "what exactly is a fail"? Mfgrs must certify compliance to whatever the pollution standard was in force in that model year. OBD is then set by the mfgr to throw a code on that vehicle if the measured output by the rear oxygen sensor is 1.5x the certification limit. Honda got nailed some years back for cheating and setting it at something like 2x to cut the number of CEL complaints!

    Do Subaru engines degrade faster, exceeding the 1.5x limit? Could something degrade the cat so that it doesn't do it's job efficiently? Could head gasket issues (internal leaks) come into play on some cars? Could sensor placement issues make them more susceptible to being dulled and not respond properly? Could the front sensor be seeing the unburnt gas, yet the required adjustment limits are outside of the ECU map to fix it, and beyond the cat design to clean up the mess? Could other things trick the system to logging a failure during warm-up (like an out of calibration temp sender I mentioned earlier), when there really is no failure?

    Two years ago I was at a Failure Analysis conference that had an Auto Industry panel discussion, and I asked when OBDIII might be introduced given how inadequate OBDII was. They said they'd get back to me on that....
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYMember Posts: 3,786
    A thought came to mind as I was out driving this morning.

    Imagine if as among their proprietary codes Toyota had included a gas pedal pressure transducer and a throttle cable rate-of-return sensor, in addition to the already mandated throttle position sensor? They would have nailed this sticking gas pedal issue 3 years ago, saving them hundreds of millions in losses so far. This could grow to a $1B issue for them (lost sales, liability, replacement costs) as the details unfold.

    All mfgrs will come to realize that the payoff is great for better self diagnostics.
  • patb1227patb1227 Member Posts: 5
    I love my outback-I have had it since 2002. 150K miles but my CEL light is coming on and going off by itself. The first time this happened I had it checked and garage informed me they didn't know why but said oxygen sensors or catalytic converter and I should take it to the dealership. How many converters are on the outback wagon LL Bean? I also have had a minor oil leak for the last two years-it appears to be minor and I have been monitoring it-love this car-It has everything I want-I did notice my mileage has dropped on long trips. I used to get up to 28 MPG now I am getting 22-23. Could this be the oxygen sensor?
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYMember Posts: 3,786
    my CEL light is coming on and going off by itself.

    If the light goes off occasionally, then your situation is not dire. Here's how it works:

    A misfire is considered a very serious situation. That dumps huge amounts of unburned fuel into the cat while risking internal engine damage. The light will go on immediately, maybe even flash warning you of impending doom.

    Most other one time 'events' set an internal flag, called a pending code. This is the recording of a problem, but may not turn on the dash light. Three such 'events' in a short duration logs a hard fail, and a CEL. If these minor events stop happening and 40 cold starts occur with no new fails, the slate is wiped clean, and the CEL goes off. A readout will probably not show any pending or stored codes present.

    So if your light occasionally goes off you are probably having very infrequent, short term 'events' in which the polution levels exceed the EPA limits. But the sky probably isn't falling.... yet.

    This is where seeing the recorded 'snapshot' data can really help. Maybe it only happens during WOT, and if you simply backed off the leadfoot a little you could save $1000 on a converter. Or maybe you drive up a steep hill (high load) while the engine is still cold, and when it transitions to closed loop monitoring the cat or the oxygen sensor isn't quite up to temp for efficient operation.
    Maybe letting it warm up for 1 minute before tackling the hill will prevent the CEL.

    The fuel economy on my '02 OBW routinely drops by several mpg during the winter. Prolonged warmup, reformulated gasoline, etc., seem to have a big impact. But sure, a bad front sensor that is not directing the system to optimize performance could decrease this further. Still, I'd want to know more before spending a lot on replacement parts!
  • frogzonefrogzone Member Posts: 2
    Thanks fibber2. That is helpful information. I'm prepared to take it to the dealer next month and see what they believe the problem to be and hope that they are right. I will pay this time, but if it happens again, I will probably be looking to sell the car.

    I would have to agree about my local mechanic. That's why he gets my business.
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYMember Posts: 3,786
    For your situation Frogzone, and for everyone else: Type up a history with everything you know about the problem: Frequency of occurrence, codes recorded, etc., and insist that the service writer staple it to the paperwork for the tech to review. The CEL needs to be 'current'. Don't clear the ECM and expect the tech to guess at it, or be so old that it risks being wiped out by the time he gets to it. If the fault only happens on cold morning starts, leave it with them overnight with clear instructions as to your use case to make it fail.
  • patb1227patb1227 Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the info-I don't know much about cars-I drive them! Are there two or three converters on the outback? Should I be worried about the oil leak? I have read this appears often but it isn't in my head gasket. Should I be adding a conditioner to the oil? Any suggestions will be helpful-I would like to keep this car for over 250k. Love the way it handles.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    If it were a design flaw they'd all have this problem.

    They're not uncommon but it's not exactly prevalent, either.
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYMember Posts: 3,786
    The Bean is a flat 6, so someone else will have to help here on the number of cats. I have not heard of any head gasket issues on that engine. Is it an external oil leak, or is it burning oil? Generally, I wouldn't recommend adding other stuff to oil, but opinions vary.
  • patb1227patb1227 Member Posts: 5
    Appears to be external-I can ocassionally smell the burning oil, but my levels don't go down much. I think it is under the pan but I know it could be expensive to fix.thanks for the info--
  • bfuchsbfuchs Member Posts: 2
    I am having the same problem, but I didn't put in a remote starter. Did you ever figure it out?
  • bfuchsbfuchs Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2005 Subaru Outback, and my check engine light is on, and my cruise control light keeps flashing, also my rear left turn signal doesn't work when it gets above 50 degrees outside. Has anyone had a similar problem?
  • poyntonspoyntons Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1998 Subaru Legacy Outback. It has about 250 000 km on it. Lately I have been having an issue with the coolant system - here is what has happened:

    Jan 1 2010: Radiator leaking - I replaced the whole unit with a new one.

    Feb 3 2010: Engine was miss firing and would not idle. I noticed a cable was hanging loose under the car. Once I secured the cable back into place - the car operated fine. I am not sure what this cable was - but it was located just in front of the front left tire, just beside the exhaust manifold, just aft of the radiator (perhaps the knock sensor?)

    Feb 20: The temperature gauge went to high (after a long drive) - yet the engine was operating normaly, coolant levels normal, temperaure felt fine.

    Feb 21: Went to the car in the morning, all the coolant in reserve tank was gone. Went to a mechanic and they could not find any leaks or any problems with the car - the temperature was back to normal.

    March 3: Temperature went back to high (after a long drive). Took it to a mechanic and they replaced the temp. gauge.

    March 10: Temperature shot up again (after about 60 km) and the mechanic played around with the new temperature gauge - have not had a problem with the temperature since.

    March 14: Car started normally, but was surging during acceleration. I went under the car and noticed that the cable (that I referenced earlier) was about 1 mm loose - I pushed it back in and the car operated normally.

    My question is: Why is my car continuously over heating? No mechanic nor I can seem to figure out what the problem is. Is there any relation to this sensor cable becoming loose and the enginer over heating? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Could be head gaskets, an issue not uncommon for that year.

    Have the mechanic to a compression test on the cylinders.
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYMember Posts: 3,786
    Sounds like two different problems?

    As AJ said, the missing coolant and the temp rise after highway speed are often listed complaints that turn out to be related to a head gasket failure.

    The mystery wire and engine performance??? Can you get us a photo so we can see where this is plugged in & routed? Or ask your mechanic what it is? '98 Outback = EJ25 series one (DOHC) engine. Front of the engine just behind the radiator, low, drivers side... cam position sensor, maybe? Knock sensor (at least on later engines) is up top on the block.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaMember Posts: 16,209
    No, cam position sensor is on top as well, though it is on the driver side.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • poyntonspoyntons Member Posts: 3
    edited March 2010
    Thanks for the help guys,

    I managed to get a few pictures of the sensor - remember it is just in front of the front left tire, just aft of the radiator, right of the exhaust manifold (can see that on left of picture) and to the left of the oil pan.

    http://picasaweb.google.com/Sean.in.India/Car?feat=directlink

    there is 3 pictures at this link

    I will get a compression check on the car soon - and let you ppl know the results
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaMember Posts: 16,209
    edited March 2010
    Oh.... haha! That is not a sensor at all; that is a block heater. If you follow the cord that came unplugged, it should terminate in a three-pronged plug that is not attached to anything.

    I find it interesting that your car behaved differently after you reattached it, given its role is strictly for warming the engine block when the car is off. :confuse:

    Maybe there is a grounding issue with the car? It is possible that the cord on the block heater is worn or the end plug is touching metal and makes for a better ground....
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYMember Posts: 3,786
    Glad you recognized that, Wes. It left me scratching my head, further accelerating my balding condition!
  • poyntonspoyntons Member Posts: 3
    Talked to my mechanic, he did indeed confirm it was my block heater - which I almost didn't believe! But apparently it was all just a coincidence about the cord and my engine performance. We unplugged it and drove on it - nothing at all. I think my mechanic thinks I am a little crazy. Anyways, I hope that solves everyone's concerns - I don't want to be responsible for anyone going bald!

    My mechanic thinks its the head gasket - so I will just ride the car until the whole thing goes - then drop in a new engine (hopefully).

    Both times my car was running funny was on a rainy day (and I thought it was the block heater) - could moisture effect my car in such a way?
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYMember Posts: 3,786
    edited March 2010
    Moisture can be a huge factor when it comes to electronics, especially high voltage components like the coil pack and wires. A little carbon mixed with water becomes a great second channel conductor. I found a corroded connection between a single plug wire and the pack (located just in front of the air cleaner box) on a rainy day. If things are bad enough, you can sometimes even see the discharge. But even the basic 12v wire connections can give you trouble if they are loose or becoming corroded, and damp days can bring out the worst.

    Interesting enough (and my daughter whom I take to school every day commented on it), my '02 pulls the hill just off my driveway the best on a damp, misty morning. It tends to shudder a bit when cold and pushed to climb, yet on a wet day it is smooth and willing. Some people swear by water injection, and I think there might be something to it.

    Oh, and thanks for your concern about the ever growing bald spot!
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaMember Posts: 16,209
    poyntons-

    You might also consider cleaning the mass airflow sensor (large sensor located just "downstream" of the air filter). When it gets a little dirty/dusty, it can give faulty feedback in wet/damp conditions. They are very easy to clean - just shoot it with carburetor cleaner.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
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