Here is the link to the farm bureau. http://www.fb.com from there you can link to your state's site. You must be a member for 30 prior to recieving the voucher. This can be presented at time of delivery not only at time of ordering. Basically after your 30 days you contact the local office and get a voucher that the FB rep has called DC for a verification number and present it to the dealer. I belive that Dodge is the one footing the bill. It's a great deal, here in IL it's $30 to join, you get the $500 rebate plus the FB has special deals with hotels, insurance, Sat-TV, ect.
I bought my tonneau from Extang, the BlackMax, if my memory serves me right. I bought it on the web from www.carparts.com It took all of 30 minutes to put it on and can be unsnapped, rolled to the top in about 3 minutes and the whole thing, rails and all, can come off in 10 minutes. Mine has been through car washes, Texas-size frog-drowning rains, and I am yet to have any water in the bed.
I have had it since April and still looks good, and has remained tight.
(cetris) If it any consolation to you, This is normal. If you have the opportunity to look at BOB, the Dash on the Dak has built in plenums for many of the vents. (Part of the casting) This brings the sound of the air closer to the "surface" of the dashboard.
Additionally, The next time you are in your Dak, check this out. When set to blow towards your FEET, there will be some air 'bleeding' thru the drivers window vent and the windshield.
I see this as a good design. I welcome these additionally streams of air in the winter. I can keep the windshield and side glass clear WITHOUT running the AC unit.
I am a new 00 QC owner. It is a fairly basic 4x4 with the SLT+, 4.7L, Auto, 3.55axle, Fog Lights, and CD Radio. The color is Forest Green and I love it so far.
I got it with the $2000 discount plus $500 FB discount. So the selection was a little limited. Two things that it doesn't have that I wanted was the HD service group and towing package. Well, I figured that I can get a transmission cooler added for reasonable money and the extra engine cooling may not be that big of a deal. So I figured that I can get a hitch added and I will be fine. The dealer had a hitch installed with a 7 pin connector.
I have an ultra-lite camper with electric brakes. My brake controller disappeared with the trade-in to the dealer, despite the fact that the dealer said he would remove it. The dealer didn't replace it and I am not a happy camper (last car I buy from this dealer). Anyway, I get home and hook up to the camper for a quick spin. I hit the brakes after 10 ft and they lock up ....squeal... So, I assume that he wired the electric brakes to the brake lights. All of the lights appear to work ok.
I read in the manual that the tow package includes relays and fuses in the power distribution center and also some parts are on harnesses near the power distribution center. I can see that they aren't in the power distribution center and it isn't obvious to me that there is anything near the distribution center.
So my questions are these.
I don't have the tow package, but do they wire the truck for the towing circuitry?
If so, can we put in the relays and fuses and a minor amount of wiring. Or, do we have to run all of the brake controller wiring?
I would rather do it myself, but it doesn't bother me to take it to another shop.
Cetris, I too noticed the blower noise early on, on my 00 quad. I had thought that it might be because of the 2 rather smallish ducts at the footwells, but bpeebles seems to know this arrangement pretty well, and I also like the air movement from the side demisters while in the heat only mode. It seems to put out plenty of heat, although it hasn't been that cold yet here, that will be the test. Nick
I am entering my first aneversery with my 2000 Dakota. This will be my SECOND winter coming up.
I was sitting in a 2001 Dak in the showroom the other day. (while mine was in for PM) I noted that there is now a seperate BUTTON to activate the AC... I think I will be making a change to my Dak to match this 2001 design. I want to be able to blow the air in any direction without turing on the AC.
Hi folks, I know I haven't posted it a bit, but now thanks to a shiny new hard drive, I'm back in business. Well after 3800 carefree miles in my '01 quad I finally have a problem to report, this is a weird one.
The other day, out of nowhere my quad developed a large dent in the rear passenger door. This dent extended from the door all the way back, thru the corner of the cab and onto the side of the bed. This condition seemed to appear immediately following my wife pulling out in front of a Toyota 4x4 (can I get a collective "DOH!" here folks)!
Most importantly, nobody was hurt, and the truck can be fixed. It is getting a new left rear door, a new rear cab corner is going to be welded on, as well as a bed side. One thing in my favor is that the body shop is well thought of in this area and a close friend of the family is employed there and is doing most of the work (how's that for looking for a silver lining).
I know I was one of the first few to take delivery of an '01, but am I THE first to own a wrecked one :-) The funny part of it all is, I have been waiting for the paint to cure before I waxed it. I got it almost 10 weeks before and was getting ready, guess I'll start the calendar rolling again; I am supposed to get it back next week some time. oh, and did I mention this happened on Friday the 13th?
DOH! Don't bring up bad things happening on Friday the 13th! I ordered my new '01 QC on that day! (figure that if there are problems later, I can blame the date of order..)
Sorry to hear about the truck, glad no one was hurt though.
sorry to keep beating on this guys, but I need the board's advice. Since I took delivery of my Quad a few weeks ago, the truck has been great (gas mileage sucks but that's another post) The only glitch as I mentioned in other posts is this wierd tranny thing where it "hunts" darn nearly stalls trying to find 2nd gear. It's right off the line from a dead stop, finally finds it, then seems to be okay the rest of the time. I have about 430 miles on the truck. Should I have the dealership check it out or wait until 1K (which is what the dealer advised) for the tranny to "learn" my driving habits. thanks!
I was told that if you don't have the tow package, then you will have to run a wire from the back to the cab. I ordered mine with the tow package so I wouldn't have to worry about it.
Now I just have to brag about my MPG. I filled up this morning on my way to work and had my best tank yet. I drove 503 miles on 20.8 gallons, that's 24.2 MPG. :-)
The overall average after 15,225 miles is 21.4 MPG. My 2wd Quad is a 4.7 5spd 3.55lsd with a Century cap. I also have a easy 42 mile commute to work.
Dave, I don't have an automatic transmission, but have read numerous posts where owners referred to the "learning curve" on the computer controlling the transmission and engine. I personally would stick it out until you hit 1000 miles, and if the problem persists, you are still well within the warranty. Especially, since the dealer advised thus. Hope it "learns" quickly.
that's sort of what I was thinking. It's not that big a deal, except if I was trying to get out of the way of some emergency vehicle screaming at me at 75 mph and I had to bolt off the line! Course here in El-Lay, the roads are so congested, the EMT's are fighting to get above 20MPH (sad but true actually)
ferous: how in the world did you carve out that kind of MPG??? I have the 4.7 but with 4x4 and an auto and I'm getting (gulp) 12.72 in the city. Don't know highway or off-road yet. Lucky, lucky man...
asta: Does this hunt for 2nd gear occur when you first start out in the morning when cold or under normal operating temperatures? The auto tranny does not upshift properly when first started cold until transmission fluid reaches optimal temperature. However, if it is doing this after warmed up it's another story. Can't say I've ever experienced this problem when warmed up, but it could have something to do with the infamous "learning period" as they say.
bpeebles- Thanks for the reply on the blower noise. I kinda suspected it was something common to all of them...now I can quit worrying about it. You mentioned looking at "BOB". At the risk of sounding stupid, what's BOB?
BOB is a Dakota owners best friend, next to themacguy, bookitty, andy_jordan, and bpeebles. In reality, it is the Big Orange Book, which is actually the service manual for the Dakota. Think owner's manual on steroids.
Steve, I spent a lot of time looking for one recently and ended up purchasing a Covercraft Classic tonneau from Top Notch Auto Accessories in Georgia(topnotchauto.com)I liked the Covercrafts 'cause they are somewhat secure if you don't know how to unhook them and that they have a nice "snapless" look. I also found that even though most companies make several colors of tonneaus they always charge an extra $20-30 for a color other than black. I got my light grey one at no additional charge(+/-$210 I think). Plus, the warranty is pretty good on Covercrafts. I also got a BedRug (not from these guys) thats pretty cool too. Good luck.
I think you may have solved it. This morning I came out and let the truck warm up for at least 5 minutes, and when I moved off the line from a dead stop the upshift from 1-2 went smoothly, no discernible hunting really. I have not noticed it after I've started driving - I believe just first thiing off the line in the morning or when it's been sitting or parked for awhile. I'll take notice today and post back. Thanks for the tip. BTW: why does the 1-2 upshit not occur when the t-fluid is still cold?
Ordered my 01 Quad the beginning of the week. 4X4 SLT fully loaded except leather package, 4.7/3.55 rear end, HD/TP. Did it through buyers group for $50.00 over invoice. I live in CT and the dealer I had to order through is in MN. I hope this does not present a problem when I have to take delivery locally. I'm excited and keep driving through a local dealership that has basically the same truck. (Patriot Blue over Silver). I have been reading posts here and at moparchat.com thanks for the advice.
When do they make us start a new page? Or do they? It seems that on the Crew Cab titled pages they would start a new one before the post numbers got this high.
asta: Don't rightly know why it doesn't like to shift when transmission fluid is cold, but it has been that way with all my Dakotas. I have a 91 5.2 in addition to my 00 4.7 and they both won't shift a lick until warmed up. Haven't noticed the problem with autos in other vehicles I have had, so it must be a Dodge truck thing. I'm afraid I don't have a technical answer. I just remember being shocked when it first happened in my 91 Dakota and I immediately took it back to the dealer. The mechanic told me at the time, oh that's normal in Dodge truck transmissions until the transmission fluid reaches optimal temperature. Go figure?
I was surprised that the 00 QC didn't come with a seperate ac switch when I got mine. I recall earlier Daks and a lot of mopar vehicles had the ac switch. I also looked at a 01 at my dealer and noticed the change, wish 00's were that way, but I don't think I'll try to trade just yet! Stnick.
Dave, cold hydraulic (transmission) fluid like most petroleum based products undergoes a change in flow viscosity from cold to warm. Operating hydraulic cranes and other equipment, sometimes in the cold weather we would force the fluid through the relief valve to warm it up to operating temperature (pressure = heat). This flow of warmed fluid would account for smoother shifts, particularly in the lower gears.
It hasn't been below 19 degrees here yet, but thats pretty cold and my trans takes right off with no slippage at all, cold or warm. I have about 5800 on it now. Only thing I asked my dealer about was the sometimes hard 2/3 shift depending on how much trottle. Light throttle shift is smooth, heavy throttle smooth, mid way between, hard jerk type shift. Service says, mid throttle, tranny isn't sure which 2nd gear to use. Hope so. Also, I know this may seem silly, but have you or dealer checked trans fluid level ? Good luck, Stnick
Warren, I'm not certain that the modulators would do this on an owners conference page. I know that this is done on other topic discussions, but I'm not familiar with the ground rules. Perhaps Bonnie Rick could provide an answer.
yeah, I thought it seems kind of weird for the tranny to have problems upshifting cuz the fluid is cold. I have never encountered this on any other vehicle I've had (mostly Ford and GM - never Chrysler). I will investigate further. I have noticed in general that the auto tranny on my truck is probably my least favorite aspect of this vehicle. I get bumpy [non-permissible content removed] at higher gears, rough and tumble downshifts and just a general lack of crispness at all gear ranges in this auto. Hate to piggy back onto A.Jordan's dissing of the Dodge auto but based on my limited experience so far (granted only 500 miles!) I must agree.
Few other housekeeping notes: has anyone on the board ever converted the rear slider to a solid window? If so did the dealer do the conversion and what can I expect if I wanted to.
Finally, spoke to a Mr. Dwayne Lewis at D/C customer service today about getting the 01 rebate even though I bought 2 days before the rebate was in effect. Not a very pleasant or capable guy - extremely defensive as he was telling me all the reasons why he couldn't make an exception to geive me the rebate. I actually asked if I could have the address of D/C CEO in America to voice my displeasure with this rebate policy and he said:
"I am the final authority on this issue - there is no higher chaing of command and I don't even have and address to give you"
I've had my quad for 2.5 months with alittle over 4000 miles. Had it's first dealer recomm. oil change at 3750. I normally change oil every 3000 which I think I'll start doing no matter what the book says. More the better. And still not a single problem with my 4.7, 5 speed, every option except bucket leather and anti-lock brakes. Had all windows tinted, line-x, lund bugdeflector and about to install mopar molded splash guards. This truck is GREAT
Hello all...I have an '00 QC 4x4 with the 4.7/auto. Like many of you have had no problems through 10,000 miles aside from the read door weatherstrips falling off and the occasionally bumpy transmission, which must be a slow learner. My question...has anyone attempted to stiffen the rear springs to increase the load capacity? I have several times found the rear hanging quite low under a moderate load. Thanks. Enjoy reading your posts.
wasn't sure if the group was aware of this shut down but it looks like those ordering 2001's might have a little wait because chrysler is going to give the dodge city plant a weeks vacation to lower inventories. any comments from the group? http://news.excite.com/news/ap/001028/11/daimlerchrysler-shutdowns
I don't know if there is a problem with my '01 QC, but, I'd like everyone's input BEFORE I take delivery on Monday. My '01 QC came in late Friday but I can't pick it up until Monday - (after they install the folding tonneau cover and wheel flares). I ordered my QC about 3 weeks ago! - Fast delivery, eh?
My QC looks great (White / Taupe - SLT+ Buckets - 16" tires - 4.7 V8, auto. tranny). I test drove it Saturday and noticed that the transmission makes a CLICKING SOUND for about 10 seconds after it shifts into REVERSE. IS THIS NORMAL? My salesman said he'd never heard that before.
I also noticed that there is a MAP POCKET behind the front passenger's seat - but NONE behind the DRIVER's seat. Since the dealer did not have another QC with cloth buckets, we couldn't compare.
However, the leather versions have map pockets behind BOTH seats. Do any of you know if this is normal?
sorry, i couldnt resist. i also hated the saggy rear and added a helper spring by hellwig, the helper spring for the dakota is the lp-15 for compact trucks. it just clamps onto your springs and you can also raise your height some, i raised mine about 1 1/2 inches, but it rides alittle rougher but i like the clearance when towing.
(gator72) Many of the DC automatics will exhibit this clicking into gear. Some people have noticed it during gear changes too. From this perspective it is "normal" behavior.
I understand this is the sound of the electronic/hydrolic solenoids within the xmission. They are fed with a pulsing signal to 'ease' the hydraulic flow changes. This pulsing can be heard as clicking or ratcheting sound.
A salesman is NOT the person you want to be asking these questions of. His job is to SELL cars.
I wondered if any one had or can refer me to any hard data on the effects of a Tonneau Cover on MPG at highway speeds? I have a 01 Quad 4.7,automatic, 2w drive 3.55 gear ratio,SLT,SLT+,HD,Tow,16"wheels etc. Just love the rig and it is running with out fault as far as I can determine.
Gerald, this is probably one of the most difficult questions to answer with any degree of accuracy. The reason being, is that the open and empty bed with tailgate closed offers the greatest opportunity for wind resistance. Driving into a head wind could offer even more resistance, and wind gusts blowing in a downward direction further compounds the factor. Driving in the very conditions with the tailgate down or the bed loaded evenly to the rails decreases resistance, but "how much?" I have heard figures quoted ranging from .5 mpg up to 2 mpg. These may be accurate, under some conditions. In my opinion, most given figures would tend to be antecdotal given the wide berth of extraneous conditions applied. I do know that it reduces noise when running with the rear slider open, and looks awfully good. perhaps one of our more learned and scientifically posters can produce a more profound answer.
While not wanted to disagree with bookitty too much, today's pickups are designed to get best airflow with the tailgate up on a open bed or with a tonneau cover. With an open bed and tailgate up, the air in the bed forms a bubble that airflow passes over. You put the tailgate down, the bubble pops and you get vortex action that hurts mileage. This is particularly true on short beds like the Quad. My problem is that there is no way to put a cab high topper on and not have a negative effect on mileage. You can add devices to 'rough up' the airflow, but they can work both ways.
The most aerodynamically efficient config. is a tonneau covered bed, followed by a lowered tailgate. With empty bed/tailgate up as the baseline, open tailgate, cargo net(tailgate replacement) and cap are all less efficient in that order. The effects are more noticeable the faster you go.
Guys, we may all be correct. Steve does make a valid point with the possibility of a negative reacting vortex (they used vortex generators on jet aircraft to create more lift) and I did not consider this. Will, your point is also well taken with an ascending (towards less efficiency) list of various components. Remember, that the trucking industry uses high foils placed at the rear of the tractor cab to create a drafting effect to the rear of the combination when hauling a box type trailer. I will opt to stick with my theory, at least until a better and more lucid explanation emerges.
I have done a moderate amount of research on some of the ways to cheat the wind and have come up with some very interesting concepts and more questions than I have time to research. Theoretically, a cab high with a rack or spoiler could be more slippery at speed than a plain cap, but only testing would tell. It is a delicate process and it doesn't take much to go past improvemed aerodynamics to added resistance. A good way to improve the aerodynmics is to put a vinyl top effect on the cap. It is similar to the dimples on a golf ball. I think it was the Petty group that tried to do it to a Winston Cup car but couldn't get the vinyl to hold together at 200+. The idea is to take smooth laminar flow and break it up a little at a time so that you don't get one big vortex as it comes off the back. Like I said, interesting from a conceptual view, but I doubt that I could achieve enough gain to offset the cost of the modifications and even if they did work, could I live with the look it creates (or the look my wife might give me).
Thanks all for the inputs, I was hopping that some one would know of a Tonneau manufacturer or some Graduate Student at a University that would have done some wind tunnel tests could be look at. I know aerodynamics is hard to predict under various speeds and wind conditions. I remember on one trip talking to a 18 wheel trucker on the CB and I asked him what was the hardest pull in a windy day. He said it was into a wind about 30 degrees off the front. Bookitty made a interesting point on the noise level out the rear slidder being lower with a tonneau on. Sort of means to me more laminar air flow and probally less drag. Thanks again.
Every manufacturer of caps that is worth anything has already come out with caps for the quad. It depends on what you want, but you can find a cap for between $800 to $1400+. I have checked out many different brands and models and each has pros and cons. DC made a deal with Leer to get a heads up on the quad, hence the pics in the brochure. Most of the people here have been really impressed with A.R.E, as I am. I plan on getting a A.R.E Z top when I can almost afford it. To my knowledge, it is the only top with an automotive style latching system and it also comes with an option electric lock to allow using the quad's remote keyless entry. There are too many makes to list, but the phone book should have a listing of retailers. As for waiting, I always wait a few months but for no particular reason.
I posted this several months ago in the old Quad forum (before so many of us were owners) but its worth repeating again now. When I was a firefighter, and had an F250, one of my shift-mates and I decided to do informal wind tunnel testing on our trucks with the exhaust fan (gas-powered, positive-pressure ventilates a whole house) and some fake training smoke. I had a cap on the reg cab long bed F250 and he did too on his extracab short bed F150 4x4. We used the smoke in the air stream created by the fan and looked at how it behaved from front, quarters, sides, and tailwinds. Mainly we were interested in the headwind. We also tried it with our caps on and off, tailgates up and down and removed, and with a piece of plywood over his bed to replicate a tonneau (my bed was 8' so the plywood didn't span it).
The air flow seemed cleanest- smooth over the truck and without big eddies behind- on my truck with no cap and with the tailgate in its intended position. His truck did slightly worse like that, and the 'tonneau' made no difference- because of how much air went under the 4x4. Lowering his tailgate helped the air not suck up behind his truck, but created a large eddy behind his cab, so I believe the 'air bubble in the bed' theory. Tailgates removed were even worse than with caps on, in terms of air noise, eddies, swirling currents, disturbances, etc.
Basically, we learned that trucks are designed with air flow in consideration, and work best for that when left alone. Lower trucks probably benefit from tonneau covers, but it dosen't make much difference to a 4x4. Caps hurt air flow by making one big back current behind the truck, but removing the tailgate or lowering it creates 2 eddies - behind the cab and behind the rear bumper. We weren't smart enough to try all this with windows and sliders both open and closed. I did always find that my F250 got about 1 mpg better (from 9 to 10 in the 7.3l - wow!) when I had the Yakima racks on the cap. Taking them off not only decreased mileage but the cap made noise - I guess 8' of smooth fiberglass was just too much. Sorry this ran long. Happy quadding everyone...
Wow! Thanks, Steve234,bsparx,wetwillie,and bookitty for sharing info. Helps one figure whats best for a individual. It would be fun for a specific truck to run a simple road test to determine the effects of different pickup bed configurations. All one needs is a 5sp manual transmission Quad, a long constant road grade ,say 5-6% grade for a mile or two and a stop watch. Over the same stretch of grade,kick in the clutch and determine how long it takes to go from say 55 mph to 65 mph with different bed configurations. Need two people to do it. Probably not worth the trouble! Thanks again.
This is a second time that I am trying this. Apparently they are having problems witht he new format setup. I found the tests to be interesting. I suspect that the advantages of a tonneau to get closer to the baseline with shorter beds and that the tailgate down to go away. In any case, several states, in one way or the other, have it illegal to drive a pickup with the tailgate down. I also figure that different body styles will ahave slightly different results. I was particularly interested in the effects the rack had for bsparx. When I put my shell on, I will monitor the mileage and if it is causing a mileage reduction, I'll try a rack.
Steve, one of the guys I worked with drove his pick-up with the tailgate down to increase mileage as we were working on a fixed rate per mile reimbursement at the time. He would come off a job site and then on to the interstate to go to his next dealer. At the end of the first week he decided to wash his new (1 week old) truck. He closed the tailgate and discovered that it had been stricken with acne. Cost a lot more than the fuel he had saved.
One thing to consider. Trucks are designed with the tailgate as a structural member of the bed. If you run with it down for a extended period of time, you run the risk of developing cracks in the bed floor. With out the tailgate up, the bed sides flex in and out and over time will crack the bed. An example, take a cardboard box and cut one end open, see how easy the sides collapse?, same thing in your truck. This would also apply to the trucks ability to survive crashes. Cargo nets have the same problem as well. Just something to think about over the weekend.
Within the next ten years, they will probably have a computer program that will allow you to accurately visualize what accessories will look like on a truck. And to boot, you can recreate wind tunnel testing to see how it would affect the mileage. Oh for the future.
(steve234) Believe me... "they" had that over 5 years ago. How do you think they DESIGN vehicles?
The S/W for "looks" is perhaps available at "better" dealers that choose to purchase it.
As for the wind tunnel testing... that may be considered proprietary and not available to the public.
Do not forget that REAL designers may not use gatesware.(uSoft) The very best CAD/CAM runs on AIX or MVS. Ill bet you do not have a mainframe computer in your basement!
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http://www.fb.com
from there you can link to your state's site. You must be a member for 30 prior to recieving the voucher. This can be presented at time of delivery not only at time of ordering. Basically after your 30 days you contact the local office and get a voucher that the FB rep has called DC for a verification number and present it to the dealer. I belive that Dodge is the one footing the bill. It's a great deal, here in IL it's $30 to join, you get the $500 rebate plus the FB has special deals with hotels, insurance, Sat-TV, ect.
I have had it since April and still looks good, and has remained tight.
KnK
Additionally, The next time you are in your Dak, check this out. When set to blow towards your FEET, there will be some air 'bleeding' thru the drivers window vent and the windshield.
I see this as a good design. I welcome these additionally streams of air in the winter. I can keep the windshield and side glass clear WITHOUT running the AC unit.
I got it with the $2000 discount plus $500 FB discount. So the selection was a little limited. Two things that it doesn't have that I wanted was the HD service group and towing package. Well, I figured that I can get a transmission cooler added for reasonable money and the extra engine cooling may not be that big of a deal. So I figured that I can get a hitch added and I will be fine. The dealer had a hitch installed with a 7 pin connector.
I have an ultra-lite camper with electric brakes. My brake controller disappeared with the trade-in to the dealer, despite the fact that the dealer said he would remove it. The dealer didn't replace it and I am not a happy camper (last car I buy from this dealer). Anyway, I get home and hook up to the camper for a quick spin. I hit the brakes after 10 ft and they lock up ....squeal... So, I assume that he wired the electric brakes to the brake lights. All of the lights appear to work ok.
I read in the manual that the tow package includes relays and fuses in the power distribution center and also some parts are on harnesses near the power distribution center. I can see that they aren't in the power distribution center and it isn't obvious to me that there is anything near the distribution center.
So my questions are these.
I don't have the tow package, but do they wire the truck for the towing circuitry?
If so, can we put in the relays and fuses and a minor amount of wiring. Or, do we have to run all of the brake controller wiring?
I would rather do it myself, but it doesn't bother me to take it to another shop.
Thanks for your help..
I was sitting in a 2001 Dak in the showroom the other day. (while mine was in for PM) I noted that there is now a seperate BUTTON to activate the AC... I think I will be making a change to my Dak to match this 2001 design. I want to be able to blow the air in any direction without turing on the AC.
The other day, out of nowhere my quad developed a large dent in the rear passenger door. This dent extended from the door all the way back, thru the corner of the cab and onto the side of the bed. This condition seemed to appear immediately following my wife pulling out in front of a Toyota 4x4 (can I get a collective "DOH!" here folks)!
Most importantly, nobody was hurt, and the truck can be fixed. It is getting a new left rear door, a new rear cab corner is going to be welded on, as well as a bed side. One thing in my favor is that the body shop is well thought of in this area and a close friend of the family is employed there and is doing most of the work (how's that for looking for a silver lining).
I know I was one of the first few to take delivery of an '01, but am I THE first to own a wrecked one :-) The funny part of it all is, I have been waiting for the paint to cure before I waxed it. I got it almost 10 weeks before and was getting ready, guess I'll start the calendar rolling again; I am supposed to get it back next week some time. oh, and did I mention this happened on Friday the 13th?
(figure that if there are problems later, I can blame the date of order..)
Sorry to hear about the truck, glad no one was hurt though.
dave.
Now I just have to brag about my MPG. I filled up this morning on my way to work and had my best tank yet. I drove 503 miles on 20.8 gallons, that's 24.2 MPG. :-)
The overall average after 15,225 miles is 21.4 MPG. My 2wd Quad is a 4.7 5spd 3.55lsd with a Century cap. I also have a easy 42 mile commute to work.
Bookitty
ferous: how in the world did you carve out that kind of MPG??? I have the 4.7 but with 4x4 and an auto and I'm getting (gulp) 12.72 in the city. Don't know highway or off-road yet. Lucky, lucky man...
dave.
Mailman
Thanks again.
KnK
Good luck.
dave.
It seems that on the Crew Cab titled pages they would start a new one before the post numbers got this high.
Mailman
Bookitty
Rick could provide an answer.
Bookitty
Few other housekeeping notes: has anyone on the board ever converted the rear slider to a solid window? If so did the dealer do the conversion and what can I expect if I wanted to.
Finally, spoke to a Mr. Dwayne Lewis at D/C customer service today about getting the 01 rebate even though I bought 2 days before the rebate was in effect. Not a very pleasant or capable guy - extremely defensive as he was telling me all the reasons why he couldn't make an exception to geive me the rebate. I actually asked if I could have the address of D/C CEO in America to voice my displeasure with this rebate policy and he said:
"I am the final authority on this issue - there is no higher chaing of command and I don't even have and address to give you"
Wow - how's that for customer service????
Dave.
And still not a single problem with my 4.7, 5 speed, every option except bucket leather and anti-lock brakes. Had all windows tinted, line-x, lund bugdeflector and about to install mopar molded splash guards.
This truck is GREAT
http://news.excite.com/news/ap/001028/11/daimlerchrysler-shutdowns
My QC looks great (White / Taupe - SLT+ Buckets - 16" tires - 4.7 V8, auto. tranny). I test drove it Saturday and noticed that the transmission makes a CLICKING SOUND for about 10 seconds after it shifts into REVERSE. IS THIS NORMAL? My salesman said he'd never heard that before.
I also noticed that there is a MAP POCKET behind the front passenger's seat - but NONE behind the DRIVER's seat. Since the dealer did not have another QC with cloth buckets, we couldn't compare.
However, the leather versions have map pockets behind BOTH seats. Do any of you know if this is normal?
THANKS
i like it alot, heres the link
http://www.hellwig.net/
robert
There is currently an identical thread under the DAKOTA area on MOPARCHAT.
http://www.moparchat.com/cgi-bin/Ultimate.cgi
I understand this is the sound of the electronic/hydrolic solenoids within the xmission. They are fed with a pulsing signal to 'ease' the hydraulic flow changes. This pulsing can be heard as clicking or ratcheting sound.
A salesman is NOT the person you want to be asking these questions of. His job is to SELL cars.
and wind gusts blowing in a downward direction further compounds the factor. Driving in the very conditions with the tailgate down or the bed loaded evenly to the rails decreases resistance, but "how much?" I have heard figures quoted ranging from .5 mpg up to 2 mpg. These may be accurate, under some conditions. In my opinion, most given figures would tend to be antecdotal given the wide berth of extraneous conditions applied. I do know that it reduces noise when running with the rear slider open, and looks awfully good. perhaps one of our more learned and scientifically posters can produce a more profound answer.
Bookitty
2001 Dodge Dakota Quad Cab SLT 4x4 Bronze
I am not the best haggler/negotiator but got it for $400 over invoice.
Bookitty
I believe Leer and ARE make some. Anyone else?
Can a cap be put on when I recieve delivery or should I wait for the paint to "cure" first?
thanks
There are too many makes to list, but the phone book should have a listing of retailers. As for waiting, I always wait a few months but for no particular reason.
The air flow seemed cleanest- smooth over the truck and without big eddies behind- on my truck with no cap and with the tailgate in its intended position. His truck did slightly worse like that, and the 'tonneau' made no difference- because of how much air went under the 4x4. Lowering his tailgate helped the air not suck up behind his truck, but created a large eddy behind his cab, so I believe the 'air bubble in the bed' theory. Tailgates removed were even worse than with caps on, in terms of air noise, eddies, swirling currents, disturbances, etc.
Basically, we learned that trucks are designed with air flow in consideration, and work best for that when left alone. Lower trucks probably benefit from tonneau covers, but it dosen't make much difference to a 4x4. Caps hurt air flow by making one big back current behind the truck, but removing the tailgate or lowering it creates 2 eddies - behind the cab and behind the rear bumper. We weren't smart enough to try all this with windows and sliders both open and closed. I did always find that my F250 got about 1 mpg better (from 9 to 10 in the 7.3l - wow!) when I had the Yakima racks on the cap. Taking them off not only decreased mileage but the cap made noise - I guess 8' of smooth fiberglass was just too much. Sorry this ran long. Happy quadding everyone...
Ben
as we were working on a fixed rate per mile reimbursement at the time. He would come off a job site and then on to the interstate to go to his next dealer. At the end of the first week he decided to wash his new (1 week old) truck. He closed the tailgate and discovered that it had been stricken with acne. Cost a lot more than the fuel he had saved.
Bookitty
The S/W for "looks" is perhaps available at "better" dealers that choose to purchase it.
As for the wind tunnel testing... that may be considered proprietary and not available to the public.
Do not forget that REAL designers may not use gatesware.(uSoft) The very best CAD/CAM runs on AIX or MVS. Ill bet you do not have a mainframe computer in your basement!