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CV stands for Constant Velocity... this is a special mechanical joint that connects two rotating shafts together AND allows the speed (rotational velocity) of both shafts to be constant. (The ol' Universal Joint) as found on rear driveshafts actually cause the connected shaft to constantly speedup-and-slowdown twice per revolution...not suitable for driving wheels!) All rear driveshafts have TWO U-joints and a constant operating angle that cancels out the sinusoidal velocity of the interconnected shaft.
The 'guts' of a CV-joint are VERY precision and are bathed in a special molybdenum grease that is contained by a surrounding boot.
The procedure of re-packing a CV joint includes removing the boot and using degreasing fluid to "wash" the innerds of the joint. Fresh molybdenum grease is used as well as a new boot during reassembly.
PERSONAL OPINION:
In my experience, having a halfshaft removed, both CV joints repacked and reinstall the halfshaft is about the same price as purchasing a rebuilt halfshaft and having it installed.
thus... I run my halfshafts til they wear out and then install a rebuilt unit.
This gives me two BRAND NEW CV joints...ready to go.
"All rear driveshafts have TWO U-joints and a constant operating angle that cancels out the sinusoidal velocity of the interconnected shaft."
This is all the more reason to make sure your drive shaft is "phased" properly, i.e. aligning the yokes from tranny to differential in the same plane so as to alleviate driveshaft hop.
I learned this from Pattersons back in Indiana. Before that, I spend half a day re doing the drive shaft on my dads old Dodge...lol.. I learned a valuable lesson that day $$$$$$.
Anyhow, he said that DC/Dodge was coming out with a diesel engine option in the Dakota. Anyone heard about it?
http://www.autointell.com/nao_companies/daimlerchrysler/dc-manufacturing/chrysler-mfg-campo-02.htm
It is designed not for raw-pulling power but instead for effeciency. I understand it gets about 60-70 MPG... too bad it does not meet US EPA emmissions standards.
I would like to replace headlight assembly with the brighter "focused" beams. But, can't find anything anywhere. Anybody got 'em?
FYI: Dealer has backordered the parts 2x for my torsion bar replacement. It's been over a month! Maybe they'll be in by Labor Day! Til then, my right front end creaks/pops everytime I make a slow right turn while applying brakes.
GATOR72
DC should sell quite a few of these new Ram Quads.
Bottom line: no clear answers about ride height measurements.
The FSM has data about frame height measurements, but there's no mention of the effect of different option packages. New rear springs did seem to make the lean somewhat less noticable, but still noticable (to me anyway). I did not have the front torsion bars adjusted. If you look back to the beginning of June and forward will see numerous posts here and in Maintenance about this.
Basically I kinda gave up on the issue and continued to enjoy the vehicle nonetheless.
Re moldings: I was told ~$180 for the color keyed Durango trim from the dealer. I may look into the ProStripe product that was mentioned.
As for different light housings, I recall reading on the DML that 4wheel Parts Wholesale was supposed to start carrying the clear lenses for '00+ Dakotas but that they were backordered. I haven't really looked into this any further, but I would suspect that parts like this should be coming out soon, which should help. I haven't read anything about projector light style housings. Of course, you could pay megabucks and install HID lights in place and stead of the existing housing. You'll lose your highbeams in the process, but that can be rectified by installing a pair of pencil beams up front that are tied into the highbeam switch (can you tell I came this close to going with this setup until cooler heads prevailed?)
Alternatively, I was told by Larry @ Dirty Parts 4x4 that PIAA is working on getting approval for a new 4100K 9004 light bulb. However, with the recent backlash against HID lights, I'm speculating they may have a tougher time getting the bulbs approved.
Good luck.
Dodge’s midsize pickup.
It the rear end where I have differences: the driver side rear measures at 39 inches, the pax side is at 38 inches....will bring this up upon next service.
Helped a friend move some boxes and stuff last week. First time it did any hauling duties. Performed wonderfully. The Bedrug bedliner made getting in and out of the bed a delight as it cushioned the bed ribs that usually hurt my knees.
The only thing I can comment on, is that the brakes seem to grab a bit more after it rains. This conditions clears up after a few stops. Probably normal, but has anyone else noticed this?
Hey bookitty are you still around? Still at the beach house?
Take care all,
Bob
Take care Norm,
Bob
Old pics are here if interested...
http://home.mindspring.com/~tommat1/index.html
Langhorne domicile. Then next weekend we are planning a garage sale there. I certainly hope that you find viable employment soon. I know how you must feel because in 1990 the company I worked for over 23 years gave me my walking papers. That was after financial problems within the company caused me (and others) to lose our entire retirement plan, which was linked to their stock. But, as bad as it was, there was absolutely nothing to be done about it. Just go out and start the game over. But, I am certain that you will find gainful employment soon. Jobs (at least in manufacturing) are beginning to loosen up some. Best of luck and thank you for the kind invitation.
Norm (Bookitty)
We would hate to lose you on this forum.
Thanks for the job encouragement.
That really stinks about the way your previous employer ripped you guys off.
Guess thats how things go these days.
At least I got a severence package out of the deal. Extended medical coverage till the end of the year and 2 weeks pay for every year worked, 13 years there so that was 6 months pay. Could have been worse I guess. I really liked that job and it will be hard to find another similar one.
I also have some stock options to exercise before mid september, so I hope nasdaq will improve a bit. My monetary position if fine for awhile, so this time is being used for an extended vacation.
Norm, If you come back to NJ, shoot me an email and maybe we can get a day of fishing in.
Everyone needs a day off from the honey-do list. Ha Ha.
Take care,
Bob
It runs at the 3/4 mark on the highway and 1/2 mark at idle.
Bob
As a refresher: I bought the changer from e-bay, it was a direct connecting model that was supposed to plug into the back of the factory head unit and be compatible with the controls. I paid $239, which is a lot less than the almost $400 the dealer wants for the Mopar one.
I'm happy to report that everything was as expected. It arrived in 7 days, was brand new in original packaging and included all the mounting hardware. The cable that comes with it plugs directly into the factory deck via a 9 pin connector on the back, and is long enough to allow mounting the changer anywhere in the truck. I was happy to see that the CD changer gets both its power and ground through the cable, so there is no need to run any additional wires back to the fuse box. All of the controls on the factory deck work perfectly, even the RND (random play) button, and the display shows all the info it was intended to: disk #, track #, elapsed time or clock, and RND if chosen.
The changer itself is fairly generic, no brand name, but appears to be of solid construction and so far has worked flawlessly. One 6-disk cartridge is included, but no spare.
The installation is a breeze, it simply plugs into the back of the factory unit and that's it, a true "plug and play" device. Getting to the back of factory deck is completely different story. It took me a good three hours to get the dash apart and remove the factory deck. Its one of those jobs that take 3 hours the first time you do it because you have no idea how the dash is put together and you're afraid to pry too hard on any of those plastic dash inserts for fear of cracking em. If I had to do it again I'm sure I could do it 30-45 minutes now that I know how it comes apart.
I installed the changer under the rear driver side seat and the cable hides nicely in the floor channel that runs under the doors, the plastic trim covers just pop out and there is plenty of room to route the cable to the back of the truck.
I'm very happy with the unit, it sounds great with the Infinity speakers, and I haven't had any problem with it skipping. It even passed the VH Balance test. My copy of Van Halen-Balance is badly scratched and wont play past track #4 on either my home or other car CD players. It plays perfectly on this changer, so the optical pick up unit must be pretty decent.
Here is the e-bay link if anyone is looking for a changer, although it looks like the price has gone up. He always has an action going, but the price seems to fluctuate.
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1261285924
-----Alex----
I'm sorry that this information is too late to help you, but hopefully it will help others who are thinking of adding a CD changer or replacing their stereo.
Here is a web page I bookmarked a few months ago which shows pictures of Vic's experience removing the dashboard and installing a new stereo and CD changer in his 2001 Dakota QC:
http://carrola.home.texas.net/dodge/DakStereo.html
just got my 00,green,slt,back from the body shop where they took the curve out of my roof and re-did my right rear quarter panel.it looks great. these guys were one day late because they found a dent the appraiser did not see and had to wait for authorization to fix.
all and all it went well even if i had to drive a 01 neon four banger for a week!!!!
all for now,
stephen
Year: 2000
Make: DODGE TRUCK
Model: DAKOTA
Manufactured From: MAY 2000 To: JUN 2000
Year of Recall: '01
Type of Report: Vehicle
Summary:
Vehicle Description: Pickup trucks. Sound deadener material inside the steering wheel could become detached from the cover and housing.
When this occurs, the material could interfere with the clockspring ribbon and cause an open circuit. The driver air bag system will become disabled, and the air bag
warning lamp will illuminate on the instrument panel.
Dealers will replace the clockspring assembly. Owner notification began June 18, 2001. Owners who take their vehicles to an authorized dealer on an agreed upon
service date and do not receive the free remedy within a reasonable time should contact DaimlerChrysler at 1-800-853-1403. Also contact the National Highway Traffic
Safety Administration's Auto Safety Hotline at 1-888-DASH-2-DOT (1-888-327-4236).
url http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/recalls/mmy.cfm
Hello,
I am trying to get up a show in Pigeon Forge, TN for next spring, probably
April. I am trying to get a rough idea of how many people will go. Any Dodge
Truck is welcome, past to present. If you are interested, please e-mail me
for a head count, and how many trucks you might bring and if you want a
vendors spot. I need to know by Friday August 10th, 2001 so I can try to
make reservations. You are still welcome to e-mail me after that about
going, but the sooner, the better. E-mail me at Mopars43@hotmail.com (mopars43(at)hotmail.com)
Thanks,
Kyle
What the manual *doesn't* tell me is if my 5700 lb GVWR will also increase if I change rear axle ratios, or is the GVWR not affected by the rear axle ratio?
So, if any of you with the 3.92 from-the-factory rear-axle ratio could take a look at the sticker on your driver's door and tell me what your GVWR is, I would sure appreciate it.
I've got a 2001 QC 4x2, 4.7L, Auto, 3.55, with tire and handling and factory tow packages, so I'm most interested in hearing from other 4x2 / 4.7L owners, but input from people with other combinations is also welcome.
Many thanks in advance to the many helpful people in this forum!
Well, the "fix" is worse than the "problem". Before the fix, I could drive slowly over speed bumps and road imperfections (patches) with no fanfare (noise). After the "fix", it sounds like the front suspension is loose when I drive over speed bumps and road patches; especially on the right side. It's difficult to describe the sound, but, if you've ever driven an older vehicle with bad front suspension, you get the idea.
I won't be able to get back in to the dealer until 1st week of September - due to my work schedule. The Service Manager is a friendly guy, but I believe his service techs don't have a clue. I would like to take my QC to the dealer over in the next county, but don't know how they would react to addressing a problem created by another dealer. I would appreciate any tips or insight.
(FYI: I have a 2001 QC SLT+ rear-wheel drive, 4.7L V8, automatic with Tire & Handling Package).
THANKS,
Gator72
Hope that helps...
I've given the front sway bar bushings the same treatment and I haven't anything more from them either. Eventually, I'll replace all the rubber with urethane.
With approx. 4K miles on the last oil sample, the Wear Metals (parts per million) are: Copper@5, Iron@39, Chrome@2, Lead@0, Aluminum@6, Silicon@10, Molybdenum@8, Sodium@11, Tin@1.
Oil Conditions are: Water@Negative, Fuel@Positive (normal in gas engines), Antifreeze@Negative, Soot@0% allowable, Oxidation@49% allowable, Nitration@93% allowable, Sulphur Products@46% allowable.
I'm concerned about the nitration and sulphur since these appear to be elevated but this might be due the short (6 mile) trips to and from work.
To answer your question on the front seats, yes I agree. I had a different and simple solution which you can find here:
http://www.ayrow.com/seats.html
Now I just have to figure out which variables gave you the 310 lb GVWR boost -- 4x4 vs 4x2, 3.92 vs 3.55, or both.
Anybody got a 4x4 with 3.55? Is your GVWR 5700 or 6010?
Anybody got a 4x2 with 3.92? Is your GVWR 5700 or 6010?
Bill
The GVW on the vehicle tag reads 6010lbs.
It was built on 4/27/01. Got delivery on 5/10.01.
When I drive over a speed bump or road-patch, the front-suspension makes a rattle-like noise; as if it were loose. FYI: It did not make these noises before the dealer installed the new bushings.
Question: How expensive are the urethene bushings?
GATOR72
I always used urethane bushings when rehab-ing the suspensions on Volvos. Heavier anti-sway bars, gas shocks, 2" lowered springs and urethane bushings. Companies like Hotchkis probably have suspension kits for Daks or will sell the bushings separately.
I always assembled with grease between the bar and bushing and re-lubed periodically. This allowed the anti-sway bar to easily rotate inside the bushing but not twist / tear it apart. I'm probably wrong on this but the urethane bushings remind me of the "Super Balls" material - doesn't compress much but it tears apart when it goes.
GVWR is 5780 lbs,
Born on date is: 07-00 as I just went out an checked it
Does that help skyler ?
GVWR is 6010 .
So far I have 6K miles on the truck, no quirks showing up yet . Averaging about 19 mpg mixed city and highway.
saskquad -- are you sure you've got a 3.55 rear axle ratio? I think you're the first person with the 3.55 that has reported 6010 GVWR -- all the others that reported 6010 GVWR had the 3.92 rear axle.
What rpm does a 3.92 auto with 255/65 R16 tires run at 70 mph?
The mileage I posted is about 85% highway 65-70mph , 19 mpg using rough figures might be a little optimistic , makes me feel better with gas at $2.80 a u.s. gallon
Has anybody found a simple ( cheap ) way around the 97 mph speed limiter?