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Buick Park Avenue Engine Problems

i have a 94 buick park i am getting a noise from the front of the motor. the noise is at idle and it will go away when u up the idle


  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 24,824
    Can you describe the type of noise. Rushing air? Heavy rattling? Knocking?

    How many miles on the car?

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • its sounds like a bad bearing 100000
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 24,824
    Is it inside the motor?

    If it sounds like a bearing, it could be idler wheel bearing on the serpentine belt, the air conditioning compressor bearing, or one of the others.

    If it' a knocking erratic sound, it could be the crankshaft balancer moving in its rubber mount. Some of those loosen with age and give a heavy knock. Speeding up the motor spins things faster and reduces the uneveness of the crank's turning with the pistons firing and that might make the sound go away above idle.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • The harmonic balancer (and they ALL fail) is about the only problem these Buick's have besides people forgettng to keep the supercharger's oil full. If you take the tension off the belts, you will feel that the pulley is loose from the inner hub. Since it is two pieces pressed together with rubber it will have to be replaced. The best place I found for a factory one is:
    but maybe an aftermarket could be better since GM didn't get this part right.
  • It has power but when i turn the key nothing happens. I tried my wife's key and the same thing. The security light comes on and goes off like it should. The past two weeks I noticed that it was doing this, but I would just turn it off and start it again and it would work. Now it takes about 20 or 30 tries to get it to start. Someone told me there is an ignition switch on the steering column that would cause this but I don't know where it is or if he is even right. I dont think it is the security on the car. Please respond if you might know what it is that could cause this.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 24,824
    You need to determine if there's spark and if the injectors are clicking as they inject fuel. You can touch the injector while someone cranks the car. You can take one spark plug wire off and lay it against metal and see if there's spark.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 24,824
    You need to determine if there's spark and if the injectors are clicking as they inject fuel. You can touch the injector while someone cranks the car. You can take one spark plug wire off and lay it against metal and see if there's spark.

    Also when you turn the key to "on" do you hear the fuel pump in the tank run for a couple of seconds? If it doesn't prime when the key is turned, the car has to crank long enough for oil pressure to build up and that turns on the main switch to the fuel pump. But that's not 20-30 tries; it's more like 5 seconds or so to build up oil pressure for the switch to trip.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • The engine does not turn over at all when the key is turned forward. It's as if there is no power going to the starter when I try to start the car. It does nothing. The starter is good I had it tested about a month ago. I really think it is the ignition switch, but I've never had this problem before so I'm not to for sure if that is the problem. Thanks for the reply.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 24,824
    Have the battery cables been compltely removed and cleaned? The cables inside may have corrosion also. The most common problem is the double layer contact on the positive connection. Take them apart and remove corrosion. Brighten the contact area if you have a wire brush or sandpaper.

    I didn't understand that your starter wasn't turning.

    Check the connections at the starter for corrosion also.

    Starters do fail. If you see a lot of oil drips from the oil pan bolts, the oil drops that accumulate over miles can get into the starter and cause contact problems.

    If you do get under the car, use jack stands..., but tap the starter with something heavy like a ball peen hammer or heavy screwdriver handle to see if that improves the contacts.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • kenukenu Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 Buick Park Ave. It over heated and I added more fluid. The next day, I went to crank it over, and it started for a second and stopped. I discovered through online discussions that the intake gasket leaked into the pistons. It was hydrolocked. I have replaced the gaskets, put in new plugs, and a new starter. The fluid was cleaned out of the pistons. The car will turnover without the plugs in. the car will not crank over at all once I put the plugs back in. No plug wires are crossed. Battery cable connections were cleaned. Also, I checked the valves and each valve is opening and closing. Any ideas?
  • I drove my 96 Buick Pk. Avenue into my garage, turned off the engine. When I came back later on to use the car again all it would do is click when I tried to engage the starter. I replaced the battery and had the same thing. I replaced the starter and had the same thing.

    I removed the starter again to try to find the problem. I tried to turn the engine at the fly wheel and found that the engine was locked up. It will not turn over at all. Can you give me some ideas as to what could have happened and what I can do to correct it? Thanks Bunches!!!
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 24,824
    Take out all the spark plugs and see if it rotates and coolant comes out. It may be hydrolocked. I don't recall that year 3800 series II have some leaking intake manifold seals that can let coolant leak into a cylinder while the car is shut down and the system is hot and under pressure.

    Had the car done any missing or skipping before shutting down? Has the coolant level needed refilling in the overflow reservoir?

    If you find you were hydrolocked, change the oil immediately to get out the coolant. Do not drive it with coolant in the oil; it will corrode the bearings and you'll say bye-bye engine.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • Thanks imidazol97.

    I have taken out all of my spark plugs and no coolant was present. I put a socket and breakover and an 18 inch cheater pipe on the front nut on the crankshaft and the engine would not budge in either direction.

    Yes, my water pump went out and the car heated up a little. The guage did not get into the red zone and the idiot light light did not come on, but the engine did steam some.

    I replaced the water pump, changed the motor oil and filter and the transmission fluid and filter, and drove the car for about two weeks after that (about 1000 miles) and it worked O.K. except occasionally I could hear a noise that sort of sounded like tappets rattling except I did not think it was regular enough to be the tappets. Also, the sound was a lot more tinny sound that a tappet rattle.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 24,824
    oooops. You didn't mention the overheating session from before. But the gauge and light didn't make it seem too serious.

    This is way about my pay grade and skill level. I might not be too serious and could be a disaster. Running right up to shut down and failing to restart sounds suspicious.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • I didn't think the heating thing could be relative to this problem because it ran for a couple of weeks and about 1000 miles after the water pump thing. Most of that was highway driving and it did not heat up.

    Also, it was not hot when I shut the engine down. I had only driven it about 300 feet to get it into the garage out of some bad weather we were expecting.

    I have seen some mysterious things, but never anything like this. Thanks for your help anyway.
  • I have a 95 Park Ave with 130K miles. A few months ago when driving the car, the change oil soon light came on for a few second and the car behaved weird, it wouldn't go smooth but almost like stop-and-go, stop-and-go kind of thing. I have changed the oil twice since then, as well as the battery and it still shows the same problem. The change oil soon light comes for a few second, the car starts doing the stop and go run and then it keeps on running ok. Does anyone have any suggestion what that may be?
  • What all kinds of cars will a BLA 3.8 L engine work in?
  • I have a 1992 park ave with a 3.8l in it. It used approximately 1qt between changes until a recent trip. While on the trip it started losing oil at a rate of about 1qt per 100 miles. It does not smoke, the oil pan is tight, and I looked in the radiator but the coolant looks to be in good condition. I am looking for possible causes for this and I thank you in advance for any help.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 24,824
    The first thing I'd check is my battery connections. Turn off all accessories. Turn AC unit to off.

    remove negative battery cable and check for corrosion. Remove positive cables and if you have the double cable-one on top of the other check between them. Some people recommend slicing into the plastic covering below the connector to look at the copper cable. Funny problems happen when one of those cables doesn't make a good connection.

    A move remote place might be the ground buss which is inside the car and some functions from the dash ground through it. Are you a in a wet climate where salt and snow and lots of moisture track into the car and the carpet stays wet?

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • jrackleyjrackley Posts: 3
    i have 98 park avenue. my thermostate stuck. took guts out. put regular water in radiator to get it home. changed thermostate and drove it down the road temp gauge got to 207 degrees that was as high as it got. it cut off and would not crank back up. changed battery. it started but when i cut it back off it had hard time starting again. I drained water and put 50/50 mixture of dex-cool and water.But now it sounds like rod is knocking did just the water cause that much of a problem
  • jrackleyjrackley Posts: 3
    it is making a horrible noise do you think it messed up the bearing on the crankshaft.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 24,824
    Running hot you may have damaged a head gasket or head. Look at the dip stick to see if the oil shows a milky color like a chocolate shake? If so you have coolant in the oil and that is poison to bearings. It deteriorates them fast chemically.

    You are going to have to find out what's happening. I suppose it's possible the intake manifold just decided to leak at the time of overheating. And that can put coolant into the cylinders and oil.

    If you have a knocking, your motor may be past tense already--not to scare you too much.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • Actually I have a two part question. The first is I bought my 96 park ave ultra used with about 125,000 mi. I have had to add coolant to the overflow container three times in the five months since I bought the car. In total it comes to about two and a half gallons of coolant. I have never seen this in any car I have ever owned. the second issue I have is on cold mornings the transmission is very sluggish even after letting the vehicle warm up for approximately ten minutes.I have had the transmission flushed and refilled. If I shut the engine off and wait a couple of minutes then restart the engine it runs normally. Any ideas what is going on?
  • jonifjonif Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Park Avenue Sedan, 3800 Series II V6, Transmission 4 speed electronic. with Prestige Option Package. One owner, about 54,000 miles. Transmission failed/replaced under warranty at 26K. No other problems. I drove it into the driveway last night after running errands for about an hour. Went out to pull in the garage and it will not start. One click I heard. Then nothing. Gauges were moving without key in it! Battery dead overnight. Recharged. Checked all 4 fuse boxes. Tried starting with and without battery charger on it; and bypassed battery; still just a click and then the car is DEAD. Have tried both key fobs; neither will start it. Was running FINE before this. Have read all forum posts, but don't see a fix. Any ideas? As the seat was returning to memory position it just stopped and the car would not start. Could it be a short somewhere? Totally mystified. Want to avoid towing it to a dealer if possible. No lights inside and I know of no way to check codes. It won't jump start either.
  • bowfanbowfan Posts: 55
    I know it's late to reply to your questions, but did you get this resolved? and if so what did it take?

    When my 98 had it's last plenum failure, I would attempt to crank it with no luck, and after I turned my key off the gauges would jump up and down for a second or two. After pulling the plugs, I tried the starter again with the same results - no crank even with a jump. I then put a breaker bar / socket on the end of the engine to make sure it would turn over and it did. I then pulled the two starter bolts, and backed the starter out and then put it back in place and it would then crank again. I'm just guessing that the solenoid or bendix was stuck. I believe what happened was the starter may have jammed against the ring gear in the extended position, draining the battery.. but that's just a guess. :confuse: Ended up with a weakened battery that had to be replaced, which again makes me think something was shorting it out with lots of amperage ability like a starter.

    Would like to know how your's went, Joni. I'm guessing starter related issue. Your answer may help someone who reads these forums in the future. ;)
  • rolexy68rolexy68 Posts: 2
    I have an issue with my 2001 Park Ave. Cold start is sluggish and hot start is sometimes real sluggish. I have an rear seal oil leak and a tranny cooler line leak, not major ones.
    I'm thinking it may be the fuel pump? Any other thoughts, anyone had similar issues with the 3800 engine.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 24,824
    At first by "sluggist" I thought you might mean the cranking speed of the starter. But you suggested fuel pump, so I infer it may be cranking but not firing quickly.

    Check the FPR (fuel pressure regulator). It looks like a top hot with the fuel line coming into it and it sits on the fuel rail on the front of the motor. Another line goes to the front of the throttle body; it's a vacuum line. Pull off the vacuum line at the FPR and see if there's liquid fuel in it. There shouldn't be. The FPR still could be defective.

    Also try turning the key to ON without cranking after the car sits overnight. Then to OFF and back to ON for a few seconds. You'll hear the fuel pump run for about 2 seconds and turn off. That's what it's supposesd to do to prime the pressure if there's been a drop in the line pressure while standing. Do that a total of 3 times. On the third time crank the motor and see if it starts quicker. That could indicate the pressure valve that doesn't let fuel back into tank is leaking and draining the pressure.

    Unless the tank has been run low on fuel a lot, below quarter regularly, the chances of a pump failure as low.

    Report back with any observations you make for me.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • rolexy68rolexy68 Posts: 2
    I tried that and it does seem to start quicker. I wonder, is it fairly simple to change the FPR myself or is it a simple, cheap fix.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 24,824
    The multiple key turns before starting just pumps up the pressure in the line from the tank. I do not know if the FPR is involved in that. It could be deterioration in the pressure holding valve on the fuel pump in the tank that retains fuel pressure in the line after it's turned off.

    The FPR does sometimes get replaced even if it's not leaking fuel into the vacuum line controlling it. But I'd want to know it's bad before doing that. It can be replaced at home if you have some mechanical skills.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • wornslickwornslick Posts: 6
    I just purchased a 2000 Park Avenue. The independent dealer I bought the car from said that they were having problems with the car starting and that he put a new fuel pump on the car. Since I have been driving it on the 2nd day the service engine soon light has came on and the car will act like it is not getting enough fuel while being started, if you press the gas pedal while this is happening the car runs fine. Sometimes you can feel the car revving the engine up by itself. Also somtimes the car starts fine. I am taking the car back to him Sat. but was wondering if anyone had an idea what is causing this. The car has 93000 miles on it. There is no missing in the engine and the car drives great. Thanks,

  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 24,824
    I would clean the MAF sensor, check carbon on the IAC to see if it's gunked up. Both of these can be done while removing the throttle body to clean the gunk that flashes back and gunks up these things with a carbon goo.

    Also I'd check the fuel pressure regulator FPR. There were recalls on some of those and they apparently do fail from the chatter I read on several forums about 3800 motors in H bodies. You can check one way for failure of FPR by pulling off the vacuum line from the FPR and looking for gasoline leaking into it. It sits right along the front of the fuel rail for the injectors and has a fuel line to it and a single vacuum line.

    You can also check for bleedback of pressure into the fuel tank (or through a rusty fuel line) by turning the key to ON and then off afteer 3 seconds when the fuel pump turns off; repeat two times. Then start the car. This pumps up the pressure.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • wornslickwornslick Posts: 6
    Thank You imidazol97. I will try the starting procedure this morning. The rest of the info I will talk to the dealer about. Would any of this show up in the codes that are now stored in the computer?
  • wornslickwornslick Posts: 6
    Went to my local garage today and had them check the codes. It had 6 P0446A codes. Also 1 B 1001 ansd 1 C 1245. I found out that the first one has to do with the fuel system. Maybe this could be the problem.
  • rtjrrtjr Posts: 4
    I have a 94 park avenue. It started missing when you are driving it. It slows down and when you give it more gas it gets slower. Pulling back on the pedal speeds it up a certain amount, but it still won't hardly go. Sometimes when it has set a while, it does fine with no problems, acceleration is fine. But now it has started missing again. This time the engine light came on. It barely made it home and went dead. I can't get it started now. It will start a few seconds when you pump the accelerator, then it goes dead. If you hold the starter in and keep pumping, it acts like it is backfiring while it trying to start. Could this just be a fuel filter? The pump is in the gas tank and looks difficult to take off.
    Thank you
  • Well here goes. Last friday went to go to work and go wouldn't start, would turn over but not fire off. Listened for fuel pump and heard nothing. Just replaced fuel pump and low an behold it still wont start. got 45psi of fuel pressure and not running. The security light has been on for about 4 weeks now and ran fine. Even switched keys with wife and car ran fine but light stayed on. thinking ignition cylinder and switch bad. key also not worn down visually but no way to really tell. not sure how to check resistance on key either. PLEASE HELP!!!!
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 24,824
    If the car cranks, the problem is not the VATS system. VATS turns off the starter relay inside the car and turns off the injectors when it doesn't read the right resistance.

    You don't say what year your car is.

    The security light may be something related to an intrusion sensor. The trunk is a common problem. Disconnect the wire to the latch assembly for the theft sensor.

    a first check is the battery cables. If there are two or more cables on the positive, separate them and check inside the plastic by cutting back looking for corrosion. Funny things happen when corrosion builds up inside and affects the connections. Also check connections at front of ESC plate under the coils.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • Took it to shop today after trying that to no avail. She turns over well but wont start, thinking that there might be a wire in steering column pinched up but not too sure. Ive never been much of an electrician (haha). onna be ready to drop and cough soon too.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 24,824
    Basics are pretty easy. If it turns over, pull off a spark plug wire and lay it on the grounded metal of the engine, or insert an old plug and lay it on the motor. You'll hear and see the spark. No spark, then you're trouble shooting the electrical system.

    No fuel to the cylinders as evidenced by gas smell in the exhaust pipe after cranking... check injectors for pulse--put in a 194 type light bulb by straightening the wires to check for electrical pulses. Other obvious check is for fuel pump running at all; but it may be giving low fuel pressure.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • Well now car is fixed, had a bad fuel pump , crank sensor , ignition cpntrol modules and battery. Now I have to get outta hospital to pay it off. Always one thing or another ya know Also had a bad wiring in key clyinder so replaced that too
  • dano32dano32 Posts: 5
    my 91 park ave won't start. i replaced the ign. module a few weeks ago and it fixed the problem. but the other day, it died on my daughter and wouldn't start again. I know it's not the security because it's bypassed. since i already replaced the module and the coil pack wasn't arcing out, i replaced the cam and crank sensors. nothing. so i put on a used module that i knew worked. the car started and ran for about 10 seconds then died and won't starts again. i wonder if the coil pack is bad and shorted out the module? is that possible? i don't want to put on another module at 100$ a crack if it's gonna get fried. is there a way to test the coil pack and the module?
  • bowfanbowfan Posts: 55
    Sorry you're having all these issues with your daughter's car. Sounds like you've eliminated the problem with the wiring that sometimes fails in the steering column for the passkey 2 security system by bypassing with a jumper wire? I'm guessing the '91 has the PK2 system that is made up of a resistor in the middle of the key? I know they are PK2 in '94.

    Is the car's engine not turning over at all now? or turning over normally and just not firing anymore? obviously it must have been turning over if it ran for 10 sec then died. Have you tested the fuel rail to see if you have fuel and it is pressurized to the correct pressure?

    I don't know how to test the coil pack & module, but I think they are pretty reliable. I don't have a '91, but guess the coil pack is made up of 3 separate coils that each control 2 plugs like the later models? I doubt all 3 would go bad at once.

    Of all the parts you've replaced, I would say the crank position sensor would be the part most likely to be a bad replacement part. Sometimes they are just flaky out of the box. Or that's what I've read a few times. Whether that means someone put their bad part in the box and returned it to the store, I don't know. Normally electrical parts are no return, but it happens. :mad:
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 24,824
    You've replaced a lot. Have you diagnosed when it doesn't start if it has spark? Put an old plug in a plug wire and lay it on a grounded part of the motor while you crank. Are you getting spark?

    Take a 194 little light and straighten the prongs and plug them into your injector. Does it flash while you crank to show the injectors are being pulsed?

    Does the fuel pump prime when you turn the key to ON? Listen at the tank while someone turns the key on to check for pump running. But it can still be bad.

    Then try a fuel pressure gauge (I think local box stores loan those out) to see what the fuel pressure is.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • dano32dano32 Posts: 5
    thanks for the respnses guys... i don't have spark, ( i use the spark plug to metal test) and my fuel pump is least well enough to start and run, though i haven't tested the pressure yet. I do have a new fuel filter though because the first time it wouldn't start, i replaced it. That's my go to "turns over but won't start" move because it's often been the problem and if it isn' most likely needed replaced anyways!! lol Man i hope i didn't get a bad crank sensor, cause it's kind of a pain to change out. I'm almost wondering if i have some bad wires going to my module, i can't figure out why the brand new one ran for a couple weeks and the used one went out after just seconds. oh, for bypassing that stupid alarm, i put an ohlms tester to the key, then went to the local car audio dealer, got a one piece resister and just wired it directly in...worked pretty slick!!
  • Hello well here it is I have a 97 pa ultra with 173000 miles and i am having a noise under the hood, sounds like a bearing, or pulley going i had a pulley go out on the supercharger belt system and blew the belt and everything with it that was not fun changing myself. But it doesn't sound like the same thing, sound goes away when you acc. but im sure the engine noise covers it up, when idling the noise is almost deafening in the cab of the car (very loud) constant noise gets noise seems to fluctuate (gets louder then softer) anyway to find out witch one it is or just wait till it goes out (rather not wait that long) but have been driving for about 10000 miles and has not broke anything yet.

    2nd issue is when the noise started the oil pressure started fluctuating goes up when you acc and drops when idling, the rpms do not fluctuate when idling, but also when driving about 1/2 hour or so when i hit the brakes now the oil light dings and comes on, then goes off, I keep a constant eye on my oil level but it doesn't go any where. No leaks or anything, Anybody help please
  • bowfanbowfan Posts: 55
    edited March 2010
    I don't know how long you've had the car, and if the supercharger has ever been rebuilt, but sometimes they have trouble with a couple components near the 'snout'. I think the most common problem is the polymer coupling at the front of the 'snout' of the SC seems to wear out. It is a fairly simple repair for the DIY'r, but may be expensive if a dealer wanted to replace your entire SC.

    Sometimes the bearings go out and that is a little more difficult to replace.

    Search eBay for Eaton supercharger coupler kit.

    Since the problem happens at idle, you should be able to use a mechanics stethoscope (about $15) to listen to different areas of the engine compartment, while the engine is running, to try to isolate the sound. If you don't have access to a stethoscope, you can use a short piece of hose instead. Be very careful with the engine running. No loose clothes, coats, jewelry, and watch your hands and hair.

    Could be several things, bearings in power steering, bearings in alternator, bearings in A/C. Fan noise due to broken blades, shroud, etc. Maybe something stuck up in the fan area. Water pump failing... Leaking any coolant?

    How low does the oil pressure get when it's fluctuating? It is normal to be lower at idle, and higher at higher RPMs.

    While the engine is off, can you depress the idler tensioner enough to remove the serpantine belt, and then spin the different pulleys by hand to see if they make any noise?

    I'm sure someone else will have more ideas, but that's a few of mine. :)
  • I have had the car since 2006 and have not really had any issues besides blowing the belt on SC, im not a big fan of it anyways. Is there an easy way to remove the SC belt so that i would be able to see if this is what is giving me a hard time? If it is this does it hurt the motor without the supercharger running? How hard is it to remove the hole thing?

    Im not leaking any coolant or anyother fluids (whew!) Ive checked just about everywhere that i can see and feel.

    The oil pressure on the digital guage on the car drops down to about 20 at idle and at higher rpms it runs about 40 stays in the normal, the pressure used to fluctuate on my old Bronco too like i said before maybe im just noticing it now that something might be wrong.

    I havent removed the serpentine belt either cause it looks like a job with the SC belt and pulleys in the way, but im sure that me and dad could tackle this in the spring.
    Im not looking to put a ton of money into this car, its my commuter anyways but i would like to hear the radio at the stop lights LOL, My last Park Ave was a 89' and we had 305,000 miles on it and the only thing we put into it was an alternator great car
    I really appreciate the reply and the help.
    Thank you
  • sgroce2sgroce2 Posts: 1

    I have an 89 Buick Park Ave Electra that is not starting. (The battery is fine) The car will begin to turn over, but doesn't fire. I replaced the solenoid within the last year due to non-start problems and it's been great until now!

    Tested the #1 spark plug wire to metal and it does not get a spark.

    Other info- In the last few months the engine light would come on while the car idled. Once the car was in drive, the light would go off. Also, me dash is all electric and the temperature control lights and display would flash very insanely. The numbers on my temp display would jump (like a fried alarm clock). Not sure if it's related...

    Any help is appreciated : )
  • I have a 94 PA that i have been working on now for 4 days. I was getting clicking sounds from the engine and engine would not start consistently, diagnosed as busted harmonic balancer..Fixed it and clicking went away. In the process of finding that problem i replaced the fuel pump(would prime but not run),fuel filter, Alternator(Undercharging), Fuel Pressure regulator(was slowly losing pressure when a gauge was applied and air side smelled of fuel),Throttle position sensor(no readings with a multimeter for resistance) and i also replaced the crankshaft position sensor(hoping it was the issue why it wouldnt go into overdrive). After replacing the fuel pump and filter it still ran until the balancer seized but would not go into overdrive. It will run when i take the intake off and spray fuel into it but the vehicle still would not respond if the throttle was applied. The engine will crank and turn over but is acting like its not getting fuel..Each item replaced is working but i still cant get the vehicle started again after the initial balancer seize..I have no idea where to look or what to do next!
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