Factory oil filters vs. After Market oil filters

jmoy3jmoy3 Member Posts: 5
I am debating if I should use factory oil filter
or after market. I had no problems using
aftermarket in my old used car but I just bought a
new car.

Does the factory oil filter provide better
filtration than aftermarket?


  • btroybtroy Member Posts: 92
    If you buy a premium aftermarket filter, it will probably be better than one that the dealership's parts department would sell you (and certainly no worse). It probably won't cost you any more, either. The "OEM" filters at the dealership are made by the same people that supply auto parts stores, and it's a good guess that the dealerships are selling the normal quality at a large profit, not the premium quality ones.
  • rs_pettyrs_petty Member Posts: 423
    Topic 167 in Accessories offers a lot of discussion on oil filters.
  • cam12cam12 Member Posts: 1
    Just a few words on oil filters. What your looking for is a well constructed oil filter with a high surface area. The smaller the surface area the faster it clogs up! In general the more you pay the larger the surface area.

    When an oil filter is brand new it filters the poorest. Strange, not really the filter is designed to remove certain size particles, as the particles fill up the openings in the filter they plug up the opening. Some openings are not completely plugged so these openings will filter finer particles. As a filter is used more and more openings are filled up until the filter will not allow adequate oil through to lubricate the engine. As the oil is backed up the pressure can go up and in a worst case scenario either the filter breaks and allows its junk back into the engine or the oil stops flowing. In either case thats why you need to change filters.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    The thought just hit me. While oil, both conventional and synthetic meets standards; api, sd, etc etc the oil filter, a most important of that lubrication chain, does not.
  • edwardh1edwardh1 Member Posts: 88
    I have a new 99 Maxima with 5k miles which on one
    occasion has terrible valve noise at startup after
    sitting overnight. All the valves click/clash very
    loudly for at least 5 seconds then suddenly stop.
    It has only happened once and is not a single
    click, or a rod knock noise. A friend with an
    Infiniti G20 had the same. My guess is Nissan is
    having a quality problem with the anti-drainback
    valves in the oil filters, so I took off the
    factory filter and changed to a premium
    brand. The dealer service manager said "yes they
    do that sometime and said the factory was aware,
    but did not say what he thought the cause or cure
    was. Anyone else had this problem??
  • sikousissikousis Member Posts: 2
    I have the same start up noise after the car sits all night. I still up the Nissan Oil Filters; infact I when and bought 50 (one box) and change my oil every 1500 miles using Mobil 5W30 dino oil. Please tell me with the premium oil filer, has the start up noise stopped?

    By the way, I have the 1999 I30 with 5200 miles.
  • edwardh1edwardh1 Member Posts: 88
    Yes, the noise stopped, it had only done it once but was bad when it did it..
    I would suggest a Mobil or Purolator Pure one filter ( Pure one has a silicon, not nitrile rubber) antidrainback valve). Try one of those and see. I have an I30 also. maxima engine
  • spnxspnx Member Posts: 37
    The G20 is equipped with the same engine as my car, the SR20DE. There's a big discussion on the SE-R mailing list regarding start-up clatter. It's not mileage dependent, it occurs even on new cars, and it does not appear to be a problem in shortening engine life. This noise has happened on cars with well over 100 or even 200 thousand miles.

    One hypothesis is that if the car is left for a period of time, oil drains from the galleries in the head, and the noise of the hydraulic lifters before they receive oil for a few seconds creates the racket.

    If you're concerned, or want to read more, look at the SE-R Mailing List Archives here:


    the search engine for the archives is very powerful, search for "start-up clatter" and other similar phrases.

    As well, check out:

    http://www.se-r.net for more general info about the cars. This is THE best site for the car on the net.

    I don't have the problem on my NX2000.
  • br459br459 Member Posts: 12
    I have good luck in using WIX filters in my vehicles. Used to use Fram until I read bad things about it's durability.
  • tonewheeltonewheel Member Posts: 47
    Yep, I have the same problem with my '99 I30. Also had it on a '96 I30.

    Infiniti was good about trying to solve the problem on the '96, but to no avail. They changed the timing chain, plus a host of other things. Never fixed it.

    You did hit the nail on the head, however, with the anti-drainback issue, IMHO. I, too, changed to a Purolater Pure-One filter on the '99, and the problem has not occured since. I tried this as the Pure-One claims to have a superior anti-drainback valve...and so far, I believe it.
  • guitarzanguitarzan OhioMember Posts: 848
    I don't see anything there about Fram...?
  • jescopjescop Member Posts: 33
    I saw mobil 1 oil filters in the store at $10.00
    each. Are they that much different? Can a person
    go longer between filter changes when using a synthetic oils?
    I am thinking of using synthetic oil in my truck.
  • bnormannbnormann Member Posts: 335
    We have two oil topics in this conference where this subject has been discused at length.

    Just use the search button on the left side of your screen and search for OIL. You will discover oil and become a rich oil tycoon...{%^D

    Your host, Bruce
  • woodytxwoodytx Member Posts: 19
    There's a webpage about an involved study of oil filters. It's extremely informative, possibly too much so for some, but it involves objective and subjective data, and is very eye-opening.

  • ryan41ryan41 Member Posts: 21
    Bought a 2000 Hyundai Sonata with the 2.4 litre , I usually use fram oil filters but their book in the auto parts store is not updated for 2000, don't know what filter size to buy?
  • ccotenjccotenj Member Posts: 610
    call the dealer's service/parts department and ask for the part number....

  • edwardh1edwardh1 Member Posts: 88
    Who makes them - both the regular ones and the new "depth" ones??

    Someone out there knows- who
  • aimanaiman Member Posts: 61

    I really appreciate the website you posted. Thanks!!
  • syjet1syjet1 Member Posts: 5
    Has anyone heard anything about Fram's new oil filter. What I did hear is that it can filter for about 7000 miles before it neeeds to be replaced. It cost about $10 same as the Mobil 1 filter. I wonder if it filters as good as the Mobil 1 filter?

  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    Sorry, but at this point I cannot believe anything Fram says or does. Do skunks ever change their spots/color???? Probably a very cheap filter at a price to make you think that it is up there in quality with Mobil 1 or Pure One. Why bother when you can get the best from another manufacturer
  • cyrusccyrusc Member Posts: 1
    Can anyone tell me that if the 2001 Toyota Corolla's oil filter is the same as that used on 2000 and/or 1999 Corolla?
    Another stupid question: where is the oil filter located? It's crowded under the hood and I see one cylinder on the front side of the engine block. Is that it?
  • nightlingernightlinger Member Posts: 12
    When Chrysler developed the new head gasket to replace the one that kept leaking, did that solve the problem? Or, have the new gaskets also had the same problem?
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    As most of you know, Amsoil does not make its own filters. I always thought that they were made by Hastings. Well, come to find out Hastings was purchased by Baldwin (actually conglomerate) Clarcor, in 1991 and purchased Hastings in 1995. Baldwin/Clarcor manufactures multiple filters under different specs for multiple brands. Amsoil filters are made in two locations, one in S.Dakota the other in Nebraska, the SD plant originally Hastings. Not sure if anyone ever knows what they are purchasing anymore from anyone.
  • himplomhimplom Member Posts: 3
    To answer your question in the most scientific fashion, go ahead and print the report "Engine Oil Filter Study" here at this discussion topic http://members.nbci.com/_XMCM/minimopar/oil filterstudy.html . I did and was so motivated I cut an a Fram DG8A off my Ford pickup and was shocked and disgusted at the lousy construction. Conclusion? Why buy and Fram filter when there are so many better ones. As such I bought 3 Bosch Premium in the black box at $4.99 each then I cut one open and compared it to the Fram DG8A. The Bosh made the Fram look really bad. Then I got a Hastings carried by ABC Auto here in East Texas and it was pretty good to. Bottom line - Bosch and Hastings were both a lot better than the Fram. So I packed up 4 Fram X2's I had bought a few weeks ago, took em back to Wal-Mart and got my money back.
  • edward22edward22 Member Posts: 11
    Are there any metal pieces inside the new frams or are they all cardboard like the old ones
  • himplomhimplom Member Posts: 3
    Edward, please excuse me for being tardy in answering your request. The latest Fram I disassembled was the DG8A and it was paper too. They have a more expensive model called XG but my conclusion is why bother with them. As I stated in my mini-research, there are so many better filters out there to be fooling around with ANY Fram product. Please note that I have also installed K&N air filters in both my Ford 150 and my wife's new Town & Country. I use the Motorcraft FL 1A in the truck and a Bosch in the T&C. If you would like to contact me for further info, feel free.
  • jazzy7jazzy7 Member Posts: 1
    Himplom, have you seen these oil filters from K-Mart? They seem to be well made. Also, I use to have a K&N air filter in my car until I noticed numerous large holes in the media after about 1000 miles of usage. These holes are large enough for a fine sewing needle to go through. I feel that these holes are just too large to provide adequate filtration of fine dirt particles. I also tried adding an additional layer of oil to see if this help. But, the small holes still exist.
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    I have no idea as to the quality of the filters but due to their misinformation and lieing about Syntec being a synthetic oil (see the Nov Car and Driver for details)when in fact it is a new refining process of dino, I would trust nothing from Castrol!!!! Too many good filters out their with Pure One, Mobil 1, Amsoil/Hastings the best in my opinion. Based on my oil analysis these are better then OEM filters.
  • tomtwilitetomtwilite Member Posts: 12
    have a 93 legend and cant find much aftermarket stuff--mostly fram. acura[honda] dealer prices are strong-arm robbery. i thought i was lucky to find penske filters at k-mart, real cheap. anybody know the rep or origin of these filters? did i get the ususal "you get what you pay for junk?"
  • breaksrbreaksr Member Posts: 9
    I couldn't get the link for the STP filter study to work but here is one I found from another site.

  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    I use the Mobil 1 filter because the filter medium is superior. Yea, 10 bucks is a lot, but so is a $20000 vechcle. If you can't aford a $10 oil filter stick with used Kia's. I also use Mobil 1 oil and change on an anual basis. After 6 months I change oil filters. I read articles that Mobil tested 4 identical vehicles for 200, 000 miles each. They changed oil in 2 of them at 7500 miles and the other two at 15 000 miles. After 200,000 miles all four engines had all wear parts up to specifications for **new** parts. That sold me on synthesics. I personally believe Mobil best. They have written articles in SAE journals comparing their oil to other brands. I'm not a Mobil salesman and I used to sell Amsoil products. I'm sure they are OK but as a dealer I wasn't able to get valid information on comparisons with Mobile 1.
  • mdecampsmdecamps Member Posts: 115
    Anyone have any info. on AC Ultraguard Gold Filters? From the info. I've read, they are far superior to all others. Looking for further info....
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    So much good information. sikousis.. you are wasting good money changing with Mobil 1 every 1500??? Granted Mobil 1 is absolutely the best and its worth every penny spent on oil to keep a $20,000 on the road. I use Mobil 1 and change when the oil starts turning from golden dark honey color to black. I don't care how long a period of time this is. In an engine with good rings its going to be at least 10,000 miles. Using a good filter like Mobile 1 is also important. Question: Is the 2 liter engine in the Sentra the same as Infinity/Maxima- I heard it is. I just bought a new Sentra and it has the oil filter almost upside down. In my opinion this is stupid. If the anti-drainback valve leaks you get no oil on startup. If I would have known this I would not have bought it. Thats why in my opinion the GM 6 cylinders last- the oil filter is installed in the non-upside-down position.

    Thanks for the info on Pure-One edwardh1.
  • edward22edward22 Member Posts: 11
    Pureolator has a web application site at

    I do not sell them

    The infiniti engine in the I 30 is a 3.0 liter. Filter is horizontal (neither up or down). I had trouble with valve clatter at start up with Nissan filters and switched to Pure Pure One. No more clatter. Maybe my dealer bought up a lot of Nissan filters and set them in a 105 degree warehouse and the anti drain back valves quit?? Whatever Or may be a Nissan design defect??
    I think the G20 engine is same as Sentra
  • vernlewvernlew Member Posts: 87
    I just had my oil changed at my Lexus dealer today, and was told that the OEM oil filters are made by FRAM...I had them use a Pure One oil filter that I provided...so, guess I will continue to do so if this information is accurate.
  • hawiianavownerhawiianavowner Member Posts: 76
    I wonder if an assumption can be made for Toyota filters also? Especially for the Toy cars built in America? I was just planning to bid on a case of EM filters on bay! Awl Mart (and Moil One ) here I come.
  • hawiianavownerhawiianavowner Member Posts: 76
    THat should be OEM, Ebay, WalMart and Mobil One in the above. Watch out for that spell checker!
  • rooba8rooba8 Member Posts: 8
    I have used FRAM oil filters for years with no trouble. My 85 Jetta had 186K when I sold in '90. Our '89 Mazda MPV had 155K when we sold it in '97. My '95 Dodge Stratus had 92K when I traded it with private owner's 96 Toyota Camry.

    I truely feel that buying expensive oil filters and synthetic oil is just increasing your operating costs. UNLESS your car manufacturer calls for synthetic oil, Just change your oil/oil filter every 3000 miles or 3 months, and let your engine warm up before driving off. I sold my high mile cars becauseI got tired of them, and not because they ever gave me any troubles.
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    I continue to say if you change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles you can use the least expensive piece of crap off of the shelf (oil and filter) and your car will get 100,000-200,000 miles. Now, if you want the same engine life or better then use synthetics with a premium filter and change it every 7,500-10,000 miles. Works for me over the past 9 years on currently 5 cars. Hassle is more of a concern then getting under the car or bringing it in every 3,000 miles.
    Much less hassle with synthetics, especially with 5 cars
  • 1846618466 Member Posts: 46
    Just cut apart a factory Toyota oil filter and it appears it is a Purolator Pure One cartridge with a plastic bypass valve. Overall quality seems good. Pure One filter for about $2 less. Only difference was the bypass valve and the plastic one seemed to work well.
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    On my 92 Toyota Camry V6 I used OEM filters for first several oil changes as Amsoil did not have one fitting it at the time. Since I switched to Amsoil filters several years ago (I get oil analysis at least once a year) the wear and dirt particles definitely appear to be less at the same mileage then with the Toyota OEM filter. However, on another car I use the Pure One filter as it is only one I can find, has been working great and analysis great. I have found that Toyota air filters do a better job then the after market ones as do brake pads and most other components. The only after market part that seems to do better are the oil filters.
  • greg116greg116 Member Posts: 116
    Here's an idea so obvious we shouldve thought of it years ago!

    A GREAT way to increase life of an engine is probably the simplest and cheapest thing you can imagine!

    Okay, go to your fridge. Grab one of those magnets that's flexible and is magnetic over the entire back, and go stick it on your oil filter!!! Put some tape on it to make sure it stays there, and VOILA! Most of the particles that collect in these things are metal from your engine, so having a magnet somewhere in there will suck em to the side! try it!
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    Has it been tested to show its effectiveness?? Furthermore, I'm guessing that the bulk of wear particles may not be magnetic material. Also the filter medium should be effective enough that particles in the size range of greater than 15 microns or so are filtered out. Smaller ones don't appreciably contribute to engine wear. Good origional thinking though. Hats off to you.
  • acarter2acarter2 Member Posts: 63
    I own a 95 Infinity J30t with 60,000 miles. After hard driving, I notice a oil burning smell coming from the engine. I believe it is coming from the oil filter but their is no visible evidence. The reason I say this is when I use a Fram Filter their is no smell. But when I have a lube place change my oil, I smell it. Has anyone else had this problem?
  • steve234steve234 Member Posts: 460
    I would wonder if the lube place is actually using the right filter. Some places will use generic filters and not all of them actually work to manufacturer's specification in some applications. Look at the filter brand and number and then check it out. I always specify the filter or give them the filter if they won't handle it.
  • edwardh5edwardh5 Member Posts: 130
    don't use a quick lube place
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    Ahmen brutha.
  • justinjustin Member Posts: 1,918
    2001 Civic EX coupe. The dealer says they don't want to see my car for an oil change until at LEAST 6500 miles. I am used to changing my oil at 1000 miles in a new car...

    Will using mobile one and mobile one filters at the first oil change and every 5k there after in city driving work? Is that the best bet to make sure that the little Honda VTEC has a long life? I tend to rev it a lot...you have to get anywhere with only 1.7 liters...

    Will Mobil One and Mobil ONE filters work in the Civic, and will the warranty be valid, does anyone know?

This discussion has been closed.