VW Jetta Tires and Wheels

lovetdilovetdi Member Posts: 2
edited August 2014 in Volkswagen
Would going from a 205/50-16 to a 215/60-16 cause any problems? Both sizes will fit on my OEM rims.
Mike

Comments

  • vwinvavwinva Member Posts: 71
    Suggest you post this in the JETTA TDI forum. That is where all the diesel types hang out.
  • daniellenrosedaniellenrose Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I have a 1998 Jetta GLX with tires size 205/50/15 on it. I need winter tires (live in vermont) and the closest size available seems to be the 195/55/15. I was wondering if that is the only winter tire size I could put on my car. Do you think a 195/60/15 would be okay? Thank you for your help.
  • lmaddenlmadden Member Posts: 1
    Has anyone any experience with these things called AutoSocks? They are a substitute for regular chains and seem
    to be highly thought of in Europe (were invented in Finland).
    The ease of putting them on and off my 06 TDI means a lot to me due to my advanced age. I know they wouldn't be allowed where chain controls are in effect, but I would just be using them around town instead of dedicated snow tires. Would appreciate
    any experience any of you have with them.
  • juju1269juju1269 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005.5 Jetta. I got my 20K service and the dealer rotated the tires. Since they did that I've had a vibration that will not go away. I've had the tires balanced 5 times and the dealer said they friction tested them, but to no avail. The vibration starts at 45 ever so slight by 69 the steering wheel visably shakes, 72 the steering wheel doesn't shake, but the whole car is. The vibration doesn't go away even at 110mph. Not that I would go that fast, that would be wrong (my friend did it). The dealer will not get off the tires, they said it HAS to be the tires....what else could it be? Tirods? Steering column? I'm so frustrated, the dealer has been jerking me around and says I need new tires although they also said it's not the tires. PLEASE HELP ME, I'm at my wits end. I love my car but not with the vibration. I don't feel safe.

    Any help I would be ever so greatful!!!
    Juju
    :sick:
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    I you do need new tires at 20K miles, I would think it must mean the tires are either defective or worn unevenly due to some problem with the car. Not sure what that means in terms of who pays.

    If the tires would be replaced at no cost to you, then I'd let the dealer go ahead. But if they expect you to pay any part, then I would want them to agree that there will be no charge to you should replacing the tires not fix the problem.

    I think when tires are out of balance the vibration peaks at a particular speed, then gets better at higher speeds...that has been my experience anyway.
  • larry4019larry4019 Member Posts: 2
    If you had no problems with vibration before you had them rotated, perhaps the balance is way out on one of the tires[weight fell off].
    Try an independent tire centre for help.
    ...Larry
  • jim314jim314 Member Posts: 491
    The diameter of 205/50-16 is 24.1 inches. The diameter of 215/60-16 is 26.2 inches, an 8.7 % increase! Almost certainly this large an increase would give interference with body or suspension components.

    What is the OE tire size? What do you hope to accomplish by doing this?

    What did you do and how did it work out?
  • jim314jim314 Member Posts: 491
    Would this 2005 TDI be a Passat? If so, according to TireRack the OE size in a 16" wheel would have been 205/55-16. This has a diameter of 24.88 inches. Changing to 215/60-15 at 26.16 inches would be an increase in diameter of 1.3 inches or 5.1%. This is quite a bit, but as far as I know might fit.

    However, there is no very good reason to do it. The true mpg would not be increased significantly and the overall gearing would be 5.1% taller, reducing performance.
  • ndmike88ndmike88 Member Posts: 155
    Long story short. I hit something on the interstate and torn a hole in the side wall and put a "V" shaped notch in the wheel of my wifes 08 Wolfsburg.
    The wheel is holding air but it doesn't look like it should. The dealer told me to call an alloy wheel repair place and he said the wheel would be good as new. I thought it was nice of him because he said a new wheel for her Wolf is $240.00.
    Has anyone used an alloy repair place before??? Were you happy with the repair?? Or should i just buy a new wheel??
    Thanks
  • skatergregskatergreg Member Posts: 1
    I am buying some used winter tires and understand I should use 195/65/15. I have some 15 inch steel rims and have the opportunity to buy 205/65/15 Nokians. Would they be ok on these rims for my 2007 Jetta 2.5 ? Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated. Is the diff between 195 and 205 significant ???
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    I would say both yes and no. You generally want the tires to be slightly less wide as you want the tire to not " float" as much, but dig in and bite. It sounds like your stock tire size is 195/65/15 for non winter tires. If that is true, I would go with that size rather than the 205's.
  • rob140rob140 Member Posts: 13
    Hi, I have a 2005.5 Jetta in Wisconsin with 205/55/16's. Although there are few true winter tires available in low profile sizes, you can search in "All Weather Touring" catagories and will probably find your size. Even though I have General Altimax's on my other vehicles (excellent in rain and light snow), the Jetta is too light for these. Look at Pirelli P4, Yokohama Avid TEZ or Goodrich Traction T/A's. I went with the Yokohamas and am very pleased with the snow and dry performance, although I will have to wait for next April for rain.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    .."Even though I have General Altimax's on my other vehicles (excellent in rain and light snow), the Jetta is too light for these"...

    I am unclear, would you mind elaborating? WWW.tirerack.com polls seems to gush all over the above, and is a GREAT bang for the buck. It almost makes me suspend the fact that it is made by General tires !!??

    (past General tires have been far from stellar)
  • medikkevmedikkev Member Posts: 1
    I bought a set of tracker 2's at 74000 miles. They advertise "50000 mile guarentee". Now, I am not holding them to the total advertised milage, but I have 94000 miles on my truck, I bought them at 74000, and they are worn across to where they won't pass inspection. I went back to wal mart, and they said since I didnt buy their "tire protection package" at 10 dollars a tire, they won't do a thing. 20 thousand miles from a 50 thousand mile advertised rating? They threw me a number for goodyear (which turns out to be a number for STORES to call(you need a store number to get ANYWHERE on it) and gave me the brush off, acting like I was going to start a fight. (they had three people all standing face to face with me and acting like they were trying to intimidate me) What recourse can I have? I told them I COULD have bought the protection package (which they have taken the lifetime balancing OFF of) and road hazzarded the crap out of them, but I was trying to be honest. I guess thats what honesty gets you now. HELP what can I do?
  • fho2008fho2008 Member Posts: 393
    Car had the low tire pressure light on (think thats what the tire sign and "!" is for ), ok I have a tire that needs air............all of em did.......cold as it was recently, understandable.....so I got my air compresser going. Got em up to 35 psi.

    Another nice thing VW does for you. My first VW, wont be my last.
  • vantivevantive Member Posts: 1
    I got a 2007 Jetta 2.5.

    The standard tire size is 205/55/R16 91H.

    I've had one tire replaced with the same tire except it's 90H.

    My question is How important is the H number, what does it mean? am I risking anything going from 91H to 90H on the tires?

    Thanks for your help.

    :confuse:
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    I don't know but that number is the "Load index"

    This two- or three-digit number is the tire's load index. It is a measurement of how much weight each tire can support. You may find this information in your owner's manual. If not, contact a local tire dealer. Note: You may not find this information on all tires because it is not required by law

    http://www.safercar.gov/portal/site/safercar/menuitem.13dd5c887c7e1358fefe0a2f35- a67789/?vgnextoid=8e1c4507fe526110VgnVCM1000002fd17898RCRD

    BTW, I thought the Jetta had a full size spare. If so you could switch tires so that the odd one is the spare.
  • jim314jim314 Member Posts: 491
    For your application there is no difference between a 90H and a 91H. These specs are the load rating for the tire, and both 90 and 91 are well above any load you would ever have in your Jetta.

    The number is the load index--maximum vertical load 90 is 600 kg and 91 is 615 kg.

    I think the "H" is the speed rating of the tire--130 mph maximum.

    See http://www.dualport.com/bustech/load_tires.html

    "The speed rating indicates the maximum speed (miles per hour) the tire is rated under normal conditions. The ratings are as follows:

    M — 81
    N — 87
    P — 93
    Q — 100
    R — 106
    S — 112
    T — 118
    H — 130
    V — 149
    W — 168
    Y — 186"
  • xbob360xbob360 Member Posts: 1
    I just joined this forum, looking for some help. I have a 03 Jetta GLI (95k miles) and I've had a lot of problems with the inside of the front tires wearing much faster. With the current set of tires, I had a front end alignments done and had it re-checked in 6 months. They told me it was still in spec, but he indicated he had seen problems with Jettas. The inside 1.5 inches of tread are completely gone, yet there is 1/4 inch of tread on the rest of the tire.

    Does anyone know if there is a generic problem maintaining proper alignment or if there is something in the suspension that needs to be replaced to prevent this? Thanks.

    Bob
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    It appears some trouble shooting might be in order. here. The anwer is mostly no. 03 Jetta TDI (118,000 miles) got 112,300 miles from "crappy" OE GY LS-H tires. It received an alignment @ 100,000 miles which it did not need.
    two reasons:
    1. a GTG special
    2. I was intensely curious as to the EXACT specifications.

    . Upshot @ 100,000 miles, it did NOT need the alignment as the vendor offering the "special price said it only changed ever so slightly from "dead bang on" due to normal settling. I did not want to stiff him since it takes time to prepare the car for the procedure. While on the alignment rack, it was adjusted back to "dead bang on".

    The car was routinely run in higher speed touring (close to xxx for hours) at a time and commutes on the 2nd worse roads and commutes in the NATION, behind LA, CA , 25,000 miles per year

    Suspension is still OEM stock. Tires were/are rotated at oem recommended intervals 10,000 miles (5 tire cross rotation). Tire pressures is @ 38-36 psi fronts with 38-34 psi rears. I run that range as I can ignore tire reading for 2 months at a time (normal loss of 1# per mo ).

    After app 6,000 miles on the new Toyo TPT's, it appears wear is similar to the oe GY LS-H's.
  • jim314jim314 Member Posts: 491
    You got 112,000 miles from one set of 5 OE tires? Truly amazing!
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    I would have no issues using 1/3 as a spare, other than the now 6 year "aged rubber" issue.

    Almost all (VW gen IV) owners vilified the GY LS-H's. Among other issues, they last TOPS, 50,000 miles. I did have to have them rebalanced @ app 70,000 miles ? (not sure without the records) as I experienced some front end shimmie @ highway speeds.

    After some research, I did purchase the Toyo TPT's @ 40-45k miles. I (as you can imagine) proceded to WAIT 72,300 miles- 67,300 miles. I actually pulled the GY LS-H's early, as the Toyo's by default were working well into the "6 year aged rubber" issue. I did buy 3 right sides. (5 TPT's as they are "uni directional ), as there is a little acknowledged tire related "inference".

    The Bentley's makes note ( the 2003 gen IV) that the front passenger side's: brake pads, rotors, struts, strut hardware and bearings wear faster and to inspect accordingly.

    By "INFERENCE" only, greater/faster right side tire wear. (It is a design torque steer quirk) I read very early on, the differences can have as much as 1/32 in greater tire wear on the right side WITH oem recommended 4 tire front to rear and vice versa rotations.
  • thatcher54thatcher54 Member Posts: 1
    I need to replace my rims on a 2006 jetta TDI. If I look for OEM rims what years are compatable in regards to lug bolt spacing and offset?
  • katorkator Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2009 Jetta SEL with 8000 mi that came with continental 225/45/R17 tires, so far i had to replace three of them one from a blowout and two others that developed bubbles on the side wall. Driving in the streets of NYC with huge potholes can be treacherous. My question is can i replace the original oem tires with a thicker one 225/50/R17 or 225/55/R17 - thanks
  • jim314jim314 Member Posts: 491
    Have you had any damage to the wheels in these pothole encounters?

    Be sure the existing tires are inflated to the highest pressure recommended by VW for the Jetta SEL with the 17" wheels. Given your driving conditions you might consider inflating the tires to higher than the recommendation on the tire sticker, say midway between the vehicle recommendation and the tire limit. So inflate to 40 psi if the vehicle recommendation is 36 psi and the tire maximum is 44 psi.

    The course of action with the least risk of unexpected problems is to buy a more durable tire in the OE size--225/45-17.

    If you wanted to go to a higher profile tire, I think you would have to go to 16 inch wheels, and mount say 205/55-16 or 215/55-16 ( which have almost the same overall diameter at the tread as the OE 225/45-17). According to Edmunds, 205/55-16 is OE on the Jetta S.

    But you would have to find out from VW whether the Jetta SEL would accept 16" wheels. It could be that the brake and suspension components of the SEL are larger than those in the lower trim level Jettas that come with 16" wheels OE, and would not fit inside the 16" wheels.

    The higher profile tires in 17" that you are considering would have a larger overall diameter at the tread and at the very least would cause the speedo and odo to be inaccurate. The actual speed of travel with the 225/50 and the 225/55 would be higher than the indicated speed by 3.6% and 7.1%, respectively. But more of a problem you probably would get contact of the tires with the wheel wells, frame or suspension. The rubbing might only occur near steering lock and if so would increase the turning radius, reducing maneuvering capability in tight situations like parking lots and making U-turns.

    Overall diameters at tread of these tires are shown below. The usual recommendation is when changing sizes the overall dia of the new tire should be within 2% of the size specified by the manufacturer.

    Dia 225/45-17 = (225 mm)/(25.4 mm/in) x 0.45 x 2 + 17 = 25.0 in (24.97 to 4 figs)

    Dia 215/50-17 = 215/25.4 x 0.50 x 2 + 17 = 25.5 in (25.46 to 4 figs)

    Dia 205/50-17 = 205/25.4 x 0.50 x 2 + 17 = 25.1 in (25.07 to 4 figs)

    Dia 225/50-17 = 225/25.4 x 0.50 x 2 + 17 = 25.9 in (25.86 to 4 figs)

    Dia 225/55-17 = 225/25.4 x 0.55 x 2 + 17 = 26.7 in (26.74 to 4 figs)

    Dia 225/55-16 = 225/25.4 x 0.55 x 2 + 16 = 25.7 in (25.74 to 4 figs)

    Dia 215/55-16 = 215/25.4 x 0.55 x 2 + 16 = 25.3 in (25.31 to 4 figs)

    Dia 205/55-16 = 205/25.4 x 0.55 x 2 + 16 = 24.9 in (24.88 to 4 figs)
  • jim314jim314 Member Posts: 491
    Tire Rack says staying within a 3% increase in overall diameter is a general guideline.

    "For cars and vans, staying within a 3% diameter change is desirable. Pick-ups and sport utility vehicles (SUVs) are usually engineered to handle up to a 15% oversize tire. Most tire dimensions can be calculated. For more information review the Tire Tech article, "Calculating Tire Dimensions." While at first a 3% diameter increase or reduction in tire diameter may sound very limiting, in most cases it allows approximately a 3/4" diameter change."
  • fleasedfleased Member Posts: 21
    I'm looking to replace the original tires that came with my 2.5 Jetta, and I'm wondering if anyone has any suggestions concerning potential replacements. The current tires are Michelin MX4s which have 46k on them and look well worn. I've priced them and they're not inexpensive, and would like to find something a little cheaper, but that will still perform. Any brands that I should avoid?
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    edited February 2010
    We had the same OEM tires. Just replaced this fall with ContiProContacts, the 91H version. Chose it because it was reasonably priced and rated pretty well amongst the H speed rated tires in recent CR test, good handling but decent winter performance too, according to their tests.

    Some of the tires that tirerack lists as replacements had a lower load rating of 89, I'm sure this is probably safe to ignore, but I mostly only considered those with the same 91 rating as the OEMs. Another thing I noticed is some of the tires were much heavier than others, I think I saw a range of 18-25 pounds. It may not really matter, but I thought it was better to stay close to or less than the weight of the OEMs.

    Looks like Michelin has a $70 rebate going, so they may not be too much more expensive. They also had a rebate going when I bought, but my installer was not included among the "selected dealers" that had this rebate and he was giving me a free alignment with purchase of 4 tires.

    One thing I did not like on those OEM Michelins is that they have only 9/32 tread depth to start, most tires have 10 or 11/32. With the new idea that you really should not go below about 4/32, I did not want to get those again.

    I think the Michelin Primacy MXV4 (not to be confused with the OEMs which are, or at least mine were, "Energy MXV4") were the highest rated in the category by CR, but when I looked at the details the difference between them and the Continentals was not all that great for the areas of interest to me. I also like that Continental gives a free one year road hazard warranty with their tires.
  • fleasedfleased Member Posts: 21
  • fleasedfleased Member Posts: 21
    Thanks for the input. I ended up buying Cooper Tires for my Jetta. With alignment it cost me about $750, which I can live with. What I'm not crazy about is the fact that the car now vibrates. I took it back to the shop and they said a couple of the tires weren't balanced. They said they rebalanced all of them and sent me on my way. Of course, the vibration is still there and although it's not violent shaking, it's enough to be noticeable and annoying. Anyone have a clue as to potential reasons for this? I miss my old worn tires at this point. The ride was so smooth!
  • ndmike88ndmike88 Member Posts: 155
    What type of wheel balance was used??? High speed balance is a much more accurate type of balancing.
    Another reason could be that several tires are "out of round". Do you have any of the stations that Tire Rack recommends to use in your area?
    If not go to a place that specializes in Corvette, BMW......mounting and balancing.
    Hope this helps.
  • fleasedfleased Member Posts: 21
    No idea what type of balancing was used. I called the guy at the shop (Tire Kingdom) and he invited me to come and see the read-out on the equipment showing that the tires are indeed balanced. That's fine, but if the car still vibrates, then it'll be of little comfort to me will it?
    If the tires are indeed out of round, then balancing is a moot point isn't it? What kind of recourse would I have then? Are tire dealers allowed to sell you tires that are almost round? Seems crazy.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    An "out of round" tire, would be defective and the manufacturer should replace for free.

    If this "Tire Kingdom" outfit is not capable of figuring out the cause of a vibration that was not there before tires were replaced, maybe you need to go elsewhere for the diagnosis?
  • fleasedfleased Member Posts: 21
    I guess I may have to, although I'm not keen on the idea of paying someone else for it when I've already sunk $700+ into the tires. I'm going in tonight to speak to them, so we'll see what they say. On the phone the guy brought up the possibility of other causes (brakes was one suggestion, which is silly since it's a problem when I'm cruising, not braking) and sidestepped my mention of them being out of round, so my hunch is that he doesn't want to deal with the defective product idea. Hope it doesn't get ugly.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    My thinking is if the place that sold you the tires tells you specifically that there is no defect in any of the tires and that they are all properly balanced and then you go elsewhere with your vibration and they find that the tires or wheel balance are the cause, then you would have a reason to go back to the first place and ask to be reimbursed for any costs that you'd not otherwise have had, or you could go back there before actually having the problem fixed and see what the first place wants to do. It's a hassle though...

    If the second place finds some other cause, then there would be no issue with the first place, of course.

    I once had a defective tire that made a subtle but noticeable vibration and had no problem with getting a new tire. I do not know how they determined that it was a defective tire. But when we had it, it was the front passenger side tire and the vibration was much more noticeable to the passenger (felt it most through feet on the floor) than it was to the driver...so maybe they moved the tires around and the vibration moved with the tire?
  • dddaytondddayton Member Posts: 1
    edited August 2010
    I am shopping for a new Jetta Sportwagen. Dealer showed me VW brand 17" and 18" wheel and tire options. Fine print said "suspension travel limits may need to be installed and rear suspension alignment may need to be checked" for these wider wheels. What do these caveats mean? Salesperson said "should be fine, have not heard of any problems, service manager says it will probably be OK". How can I resolve conflict between salesperson slick pitch and VW's printed recommendations. I plan to swap wheels and tires seasonally but do not want to check alignment twice a year. I would like to know 1) How does one limit suspension travel, what kind of part or adjustment? 2) How much travel is lost? 17" and 18" wheels range from 7" to 8" wide, all tires are 225 mm wide.

    Thanks for any help.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    VWs formal printed documents ALWAYS trump the words of a sales-person.
    ...even if the sales-person writes their sales-pitch in blood!!

    From my experience, a car-salesman does not work at the same dealership for more than a year. Apparently there are a lot of "opertunitues for better employment" in that field of work.
  • capriracercapriracer Somewhere in the USMember Posts: 900
    If the wheels (and tires) came from the factory, then they will be fine. They check that sort of thing to make sure it fits properly.

    However, aftermarket wheels may have the wrong offset and the tires may be too big - hence the warning!
  • boi1984boi1984 Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a VW Jetta S and I want to change the wheels that are on the car. It currently has the 205 55 16 tires and wheels but I found a set of wheels that are 215 55 16 and I wondered if anyone knows for sure if these would work?

    Thanks to anyone who can help! :)
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