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GMC YUKON BRAKE WEAR PROBLEMS
I have a 1998 Yukon 4DR 4WD 5.7L. At 20,100 I had
the truck in for service and was told I needed new
front brake pads.I thought this was a bit early
even though I had heard that GM trucks were tough
on brakes, especially front, due to the weight
factor.I called the GMC helpless line and was told
the standard " everybody's driving style and
driving situations are different and that wear on
the brakes is not a warranty item." So I paid for a
$200.00 brake job.I just brought the Yukon in for
service at about 35,000 miles, and guess what?It's
time for new brake pads again. The service rep at
the GM dealer says I have about 2000 miles left on
the pads.I am a very careful driver and not a hot
dog.This time when I called the GMC helpless line
they opened a file on the problem and will have a
factory rep meet me at the dealership to inspect
the truck. Has anyone else out there had a similar
problem? Any ideas?
the truck in for service and was told I needed new
front brake pads.I thought this was a bit early
even though I had heard that GM trucks were tough
on brakes, especially front, due to the weight
factor.I called the GMC helpless line and was told
the standard " everybody's driving style and
driving situations are different and that wear on
the brakes is not a warranty item." So I paid for a
$200.00 brake job.I just brought the Yukon in for
service at about 35,000 miles, and guess what?It's
time for new brake pads again. The service rep at
the GM dealer says I have about 2000 miles left on
the pads.I am a very careful driver and not a hot
dog.This time when I called the GMC helpless line
they opened a file on the problem and will have a
factory rep meet me at the dealership to inspect
the truck. Has anyone else out there had a similar
problem? Any ideas?
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Comments
Please.
Hey! Aren't they lifetime breaks anyway. I know, it's still a pain to gett'em changed.
One person mentioned pulling...mine has always pulled to the right...even harder when breaking...took it to GM dealer..they would gladly realign the truck for +- $200...for the first reallign....no way...check your tire wear and pressure...I have found that when the tire pressure drops just a few pounds...it tends to pull real hard..if the right front tire starts getting low on mine....man...you could end up in a right hand spin....check you pressure...
back to breaks...this thing is huge and heavy...unless you hear serious problems...or have handling problems....keep on keeping on..
I am not a mechanic or a GM rep. just thrifty.
2. Dealers: If there's two (or more) in your town, get a 2nd opinion. And remember, Chevy dealers can service (and sell parts to) GMC and vice versa. Carpeted floormats I wanted were on 12-week backorder at my Chevy dealer but IN STOCK at a local GMC dealer.
3. Sales and service departments are 2 different operations. I wouldn't (and didn't) BUY my car from either one of the two dealers I mentioned. But the service of the 2nd is outstanding.
Pulling & Brakes are two separate and known problems. GM puts blocks in front end, to force vehicle drift to the shoulder, instead of into oncoming traffic, in the event driver gaps out. Within 1st 12k miles dealer will remove "knock-outs" for free, requires realignment. Of course, my first dealer didn't tell me that and wanted to charge me $250 for an "all-wheel alignment" (like #6 above). Second dealer removed it just for the $49 alignment cost (about 20k miles at that point), THAT solved the problem, tried rotating tires, cross-rotating, etc., etc.. Gee, when a dealer finally tells the truth...
Brakes, well, at 35k miles I'm just having my 2nd set of front pads put in. Sucks, big time. 15k 1st set, those weren't GM (1st dealer), those were replaced after 5k miles of complaining of dust, noise, smell..("Oh yeah, we weren't using GM pads for a while there"). So, 3rd set (2nd full set) at 35k, plus first set of rear shoes. Dealer says it's pure physics, weight of car w/auto-capacity brakes. Wife is apalled. #6, hope your rotors are intact!
BTW I had the dealer call me when the truck was in for warranty work and told me the pads were 80% worn and that for ~$200 they would replace them while the truck was there. I drove down to the dealer and asked to see the pads. The service writer was quite embarrassed to find that I had just changed the pads a week earlier. The explanation? "Well, we know the pads wear out in about 20K miles, so we always recommend changing them. And no, I do not let that dealer work on my vehicles anymore.
That just my 2 cents.
you have to PULL your GMC to a stop rather than
push it. Buy a Ford I went 60,000 before my first brake job, on my expedition.
Anyway, the larger Yukon would be nice, but the brake history concerns me. I plan to continue to tow (up to about 7000#), and really don't relish the extra hassle (doing it myself), or expense (paying someone else) of regularly burning through brakes.
Any comments? Thanks.
Are the 4-disc brakes significantly better?
While shopping for a used Yukon, should this be a concern?
Also does rear air conditioning (available in the new models) make a difference?
I talked to my mechanic who works on everything.
the bad news is they all have their problems. GM transmissions and brakes, Ford drive train, front seals. So drive them all, drive several of each model. Some are tight some loose. Two of the Fords vibrated like crazy. Brand new. Really, the Lexus and the Toyota are the good ones, if you've 60k to spend on a vehicle.
to the sliding spline portion of the driveshaft so
it will no longer stick in the extended position.
No other grease works. It costs $30 for a pint
can but you can beg a little from the mechanic at
your local dealership. It is pale yellow in color. Contains maximum possible % of teflon. There is a bulletin about it, 92-265-7A, formerly 91-242-7A. I also recommend, while you have the driveshaft out, slightly rounding the corners of the spline teeth.
Brakes pulling to one side can be caused by front
brake hoses that are delaminating inside. If there are no visible or obvious problems with bad wheel bearings, scored rotors, seized up caliper slides, then replace both right and left hoses (cheap to do and should be done anyway as part of routine maintenance) before doing any other (usually expensive) work.
Albert Einstein
My husband and I are looking at getting one of the two listed above.