1995 Dodge Caravan has a Radiator Draincock of some sort I have never seen before. Looks to turn 1/4 turn?? Does it pull or something? Do not want to break it
I've had to drain the cooling system from our 1998 DGC twice in the last year (once due to the age of the coolant, and once for engine work), and after pondering the same thing you are, I gave up and eased open the lower hose. Problem solved.
It is a stupid design. If you go over 1/4 turn, it will not pull out. If if turned correctly, the force required to pull it out may damage the draincock.
If it survives, usually the seal crimps or cuts when being inserted and then the darn thing leaks.
Don't ask me how I know!
Either do what what Shipo wisely does, or have a new one in hand before you attack the old one.
.. the new one first, the following will make more sense since you can see better what I describe.
You are right, it is twist and then pull, only you have to twist the right amount, no more and no less, and then pull. Having a new one to compare will give you a better idea of how much to twist.
Also, when pulling, be careful as the neck where the part install may crack if you pull too much or at an angle. A little oil or grease will help install the new one without too much force, and also prevent the o-ring from being cut during installation. The new one will first be pushed in, and then part twisted to seat fully. Do NOT overtwist or you will have a new leak and spend 5 more bucks.
I have a 2000 Dodge Caravan. The draincock was very difficult to open but opens in the counter clockwise direction. (closed is horizontal). I used a small crescent wrench. After I changed the antifreeze, the draincock leaked. Thanks to this forum I figured out I was not alone. I took the advice given here of buying a draincock (about $6) and this helped me understand how to get the old one out. It is not 1/4 turn and pull, but instead just shy of 1/2 turn and then wiggle. It will come out. I would say it is about 160 degrees out of 180 degrees, with 180 degrees being a 1/2 turn. If you turn it more than 1/2 turn, it will damage the draincock. The o-ring in mine was broken. After removing the draincock, I pulled out a few pieces of broken o-ring out of the housing, lightly lubricated the new draincock with silicone lubricant, and it went back in just fine with some wiggling. I agree with shade tree mechanic, just pulling the bottom hose is much less hassle.
Comments
Best Regards,
Shipo
If it survives, usually the seal crimps or cuts when being inserted and then the darn thing leaks.
Don't ask me how I know!
Either do what what Shipo wisely does, or have a new one in hand before you attack the old one.
You are right, it is twist and then pull, only you have to twist the right amount, no more and no less, and then pull. Having a new one to compare will give you a better idea of how much to twist.
Also, when pulling, be careful as the neck where the part install may crack if you pull too much or at an angle. A little oil or grease will help install the new one without too much force, and also prevent the o-ring from being cut during installation. The new one will first be pushed in, and then part twisted to seat fully. Do NOT overtwist or you will have a new leak and spend 5 more bucks.