Chrysler 300M Brake Issues

th300m

I own a 2002 300M, front brake will automatically come on. I've replaced the ABS module, pump, speed sensors are ok. Turn ABS & traction control off still does it, HELP!!!

tayl0rd

Replace the calipers or have them overhauled. Is it both or just one side?

th300m

It happens on both sides, I've had my Mechanic look at this and Chrysler dealer and they both said the calipers are good.

wec02

I own a 2002 300m and had the same problem.After a month of going to dealerships and garages.The problem was intermittent my brakes would engauge on the highway and the front end would start shaking.You couldnt even touch the wheels they would be burning hot.I replaced lines had a fluid power flush but still happened.I was finally able to get it to a chrysler dealer when it was happening.What they found was the master cylinder valves were hanging up.They replaced the master cylinder and has been fine since.When the prolem accurd you could put car in drive and it wouldnt move.Good luck.

wec02

I have a 2002 300m and just replaced parking brakes.Had no problems until I tried to adjust to 6-3/4 across shoes before installing rotor.Adjusted as tight as I could 7 inches the rotor went on but brakes are dragging enough to cause heating at rotors.Any suggestions would be appreciated thanks.

birdhouse

I have been experiencing this for a couple of months now. The first time it happened we had sub zero temperatures and I was on the ramp approaching the interstate. The car started shaking, the wheels started smoking, the brakes seems to be locked up. I couldn't go over 20 mph and I was really pushing it just to make it go. We changed the brakes, calipers, rotors. None of these helped. It still did it intermittantly. After reading information on the "net" we decided it was the master cylinder. Had it replaced last week. Also got new tires put on this weekend and had to also replace a wheel because it had a crack in it. All of this done and I was feeling pretty good about the whole situation. Then tonight on the way home from work, it did it again. Thankfully this time I wasn't too far from home. Does anybody have any ideas?

naatz1

I have a 2004 300M 60,000 miles and need to replace the front brakes due to wear (no shimmy, rotors seem fine, but recent inspection shows <4mm pad left). I am surprised I got this much out of them honestly, most vehicles need it at 40-50,000 miles. I am still using dealer service since I have the 7/70 max care and don't want any excuses for something they won't fix, although generally this has been a high quality vehicle with only two repairs in the max care term - I maybe have what I paid for the max care in repairs, but still 10,000 miles left to go.

Anyway, our dealer has a brake pad Feb special on the Value Line MOPAR pads. Has anyone used them on your 300M (or anything else). They also offer the OEM pads which are the same as what Chrysler put on originally; I need to find out how much more those run and if only $20-30 more might use them just because these original pads have lasted so long. I do plan to drive the car up to 10 years total (4 more from now) and probably around 100,000 miles, until we trade.

leslielbk

I'd love to get everyone's opinion, since you all own a 2002. I have the chance to buy a 2002 300m special for $6,000 with 36,000 miles. It's in great shape, spotless maintenance history, and I'm afraid of what could happen to it that would cost me alot of money. I would be selling a 2010 Kia Soul that I owe $4500 on. I can't figure out what to do. Can you offer any advice? Thank you so much!

Kirstie_H

We usually discourage cross-posting, but since this is a low-traffic area, I think you might get more advice in our Real-World Trade-In Values discussion. Even though you're not specifically looking for a value assessment, it's a good place to get advice from members in our forums who have a lot of experience with vehicles, and buying/selling.

pitmanoeuvre

The first clue here , is that you bought or leased as it were , a Kia. All of the foreign car makers , with the exception of Toyota & LandRover are pretty much the same. They are about the same as all of the Big 3's cars.

$6,000 is not alot of money for a car if it works well for years without much trouble or expense beyond general maintainence , like brakes , or a tune-up etc. In fact , a new car has an obligatory maintainence schedule which can be the cause , or can be used as an excuse for quality failures.

36,000 miles is not much , but the most important thing is whether or not it can be driven 60 or so miles of mixed highway and city driving , and remain functional. Alot of knowledge about a vehicle can be obtained by driving it on a highway , and then choosing a place to run it through some stop and go driving , and then bring it to a stop , then shut it off. Already you should know whether the car is OK or not. When you restart it , if it acts as if it was never off , or had stopped , chances are the engine & electricals are OK. If it mis-starts , stumbles , chugs , has valve noise (ticking) , chances are the car has had the crap run out of it , and the owner wants to unload what he/she has diagnosed as a possibly expensive engine overhaul or tune-up. That's just the first step.

I would never buy a car I haven't taken onto a major highway , not even a new one. Another trick , which should be considered when buying a used car , from a previous owner , is to get them to drive it on a highway. You can note how they drive it , whether it be too fast , too slow , no courtesy to other drivers , little knowledge of safe driving etc. Then part with $6K if all is well after the ride. You really do need something current to measure the value of the vehicle , other than checking all of the usual workings , even where a mechanic's check or safety is concerned. You don't want to buy something someone has spent money on to sell. Some owners will spend 80-90% of the sale price , just so that they can still say they personally sold it. Meanwhile , you will have bought something that was abused , not even washed , or has had all sorts of problems.

I have a 02 300M Special , with 150,000 miles on it , where it hasn't been a letdown. I drove it the first year I bought it with very minor brake maintainence needed. The gas mileage is OK , as it doesn't leave you wondering why you bought it . The Kia may have been good on gas , but malfunctions can't be overlooked that leave the car parked at a service bay for major repairs. I would rather be concerned about maintainence , than use.

With no bias , I can share this truth. Honda , was my first taste of a dealership , outside my usual Big 3 experiences. Within a week , there were half a dozen customers at the parts counter , who were either : A - hotter than a pistol that they had to pay $1K for brake maintainence in the first year , or : B - suing the dealership for shoddy / overpriced or not-done repairs. While Honda was the scapegoat , who were also sued.

Reason being , as I worked away on new cars , preparing them with floormats and pre-delivery checks (I used to deliver the cars myself to the owners at their home) , I overheard the entire mess of hot headed customers. Being used to this sort of thing , I kind of ignored it , until I was informed by another mechanic that the dealership was charging "overinflated , overseas" prices for brake rotors etc. that were made in Canada. Within blocks of the dealership. Those customers were paying the rent of the shop from the lot owner , who sold Honda's , without knowing. There really wasn't any shop , so to speak. Plus*- the customers were being told that they had to wait up to 2 weeks or more for parts , and that it didn't matter what dealership they went to. Those were the Civic days , when you could buy a cheap Civic. While the first 1 I drove , I blew the timing belt right off of it @ 55mph. I hadn't even pushed the gas to the floor or half way. It blew up , and it had just been overhauled by the dealer. The next vehicle , a Mazda pickup , same thing - it was blowing blue smoke by the time I got halfway back from picking up , bay vehicle repair parts from the Honda plant.

Needless to say , if I didn't even so much as floor them , why would the head gaskets and timing belts be destroyed? Because they're cheap. Compared to a vehicle that can do short trips on a daily basis for years with no such problems , I'd say the choice is obvious.

There are quite a few benefits in buying a 300M Special. It is fully loaded , mine has the protection package that you might call "ground effects". The underbody doesn't rust , that holds them on. The engine oilpan can be removed from the bottom , without the need to lift the motor up or out of the vehicle*. It is a unibody constructed front end , NOT a welded A-Frame. The gas tank is under the rear seats , protected from the elements. And so is the fuel pump and filter. Add these things to a luxury model of sorts , with premium quality manufacturing - and you have bought what you have been looking for : reliability and value. Just because the speedo goes to 150mph , doesn't mean you should always be looking at it to get there. That's for those who have learned to rock , but can't roll.

snocross84

I own a 2004 Chrysler 300m. Had a front brake issue while i drove t around town. Had it checked out and found that there was a seized caliper and collapsed brake hose. I asked for them to show me and it def was NOT working. with the caliper in my hand and brake hose removed and bleeder open the piston would not move. So i had them replace pads, rotors, and both front calipers along with the hoses and the problem still continued. Then had the ABs Module replace to see if that was the problem and yeah that didnt work either. Could really use some help with this on folks.

chryslergroup

Hello snocross84,

Sorry to hear you are having a concern with your 2004 Chrysler 300M.

I checked for Technical Service Bulletins but could not find anything for the brakes. You may want to consider having the vehicle diagnosed by your local authorized Chrysler Service Department.

Lisa
Customer Care
Chrysler Group LLC