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Chrysler 300M Brake Issues
I own a 2002 300M, front brake will automatically come on. I've replaced the ABS module, pump, speed sensors are ok. Turn ABS & traction control off still does it, HELP!!!
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Anyway, our dealer has a brake pad Feb special on the Value Line MOPAR pads. Has anyone used them on your 300M (or anything else). They also offer the OEM pads which are the same as what Chrysler put on originally; I need to find out how much more those run and if only $20-30 more might use them just because these original pads have lasted so long. I do plan to drive the car up to 10 years total (4 more from now) and probably around 100,000 miles, until we trade.
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$6,000 is not alot of money for a car if it works well for years without much trouble or expense beyond general maintainence , like brakes , or a tune-up etc. In fact , a new car has an obligatory maintainence schedule which can be the cause , or can be used as an excuse for quality failures.
36,000 miles is not much , but the most important thing is whether or not it can be driven 60 or so miles of mixed highway and city driving , and remain functional. Alot of knowledge about a vehicle can be obtained by driving it on a highway , and then choosing a place to run it through some stop and go driving , and then bring it to a stop , then shut it off. Already you should know whether the car is OK or not. When you restart it , if it acts as if it was never off , or had stopped , chances are the engine & electricals are OK. If it mis-starts , stumbles , chugs , has valve noise (ticking) , chances are the car has had the crap run out of it , and the owner wants to unload what he/she has diagnosed as a possibly expensive engine overhaul or tune-up. That's just the first step.
I would never buy a car I haven't taken onto a major highway , not even a new one. Another trick , which should be considered when buying a used car , from a previous owner , is to get them to drive it on a highway. You can note how they drive it , whether it be too fast , too slow , no courtesy to other drivers , little knowledge of safe driving etc. Then part with $6K if all is well after the ride. You really do need something current to measure the value of the vehicle , other than checking all of the usual workings , even where a mechanic's check or safety is concerned. You don't want to buy something someone has spent money on to sell. Some owners will spend 80-90% of the sale price , just so that they can still say they personally sold it. Meanwhile , you will have bought something that was abused , not even washed , or has had all sorts of problems.
I have a 02 300M Special , with 150,000 miles on it , where it hasn't been a letdown. I drove it the first year I bought it with very minor brake maintainence needed. The gas mileage is OK , as it doesn't leave you wondering why you bought it . The Kia may have been good on gas , but malfunctions can't be overlooked that leave the car parked at a service bay for major repairs. I would rather be concerned about maintainence , than use.
With no bias , I can share this truth. Honda , was my first taste of a dealership , outside my usual Big 3 experiences. Within a week , there were half a dozen customers at the parts counter , who were either : A - hotter than a pistol that they had to pay $1K for brake maintainence in the first year , or : B - suing the dealership for shoddy / overpriced or not-done repairs. While Honda was the scapegoat , who were also sued.
Reason being , as I worked away on new cars , preparing them with floormats and pre-delivery checks (I used to deliver the cars myself to the owners at their home) , I overheard the entire mess of hot headed customers. Being used to this sort of thing , I kind of ignored it , until I was informed by another mechanic that the dealership was charging "overinflated , overseas" prices for brake rotors etc. that were made in Canada. Within blocks of the dealership. Those customers were paying the rent of the shop from the lot owner , who sold Honda's , without knowing. There really wasn't any shop , so to speak. Plus*- the customers were being told that they had to wait up to 2 weeks or more for parts , and that it didn't matter what dealership they went to. Those were the Civic days , when you could buy a cheap Civic. While the first 1 I drove , I blew the timing belt right off of it @ 55mph. I hadn't even pushed the gas to the floor or half way. It blew up , and it had just been overhauled by the dealer. The next vehicle , a Mazda pickup , same thing - it was blowing blue smoke by the time I got halfway back from picking up , bay vehicle repair parts from the Honda plant.
Needless to say , if I didn't even so much as floor them , why would the head gaskets and timing belts be destroyed? Because they're cheap. Compared to a vehicle that can do short trips on a daily basis for years with no such problems , I'd say the choice is obvious.
There are quite a few benefits in buying a 300M Special. It is fully loaded , mine has the protection package that you might call "ground effects". The underbody doesn't rust , that holds them on. The engine oilpan can be removed from the bottom , without the need to lift the motor up or out of the vehicle*. It is a unibody constructed front end , NOT a welded A-Frame. The gas tank is under the rear seats , protected from the elements. And so is the fuel pump and filter. Add these things to a luxury model of sorts , with premium quality manufacturing - and you have bought what you have been looking for : reliability and value. Just because the speedo goes to 150mph , doesn't mean you should always be looking at it to get there. That's for those who have learned to rock , but can't roll.
Sorry to hear you are having a concern with your 2004 Chrysler 300M.
I checked for Technical Service Bulletins but could not find anything for the brakes. You may want to consider having the vehicle diagnosed by your local authorized Chrysler Service Department.
Lisa
Customer Care
Chrysler Group LLC