Isuzu Rodeo Brake Problems

sheltimom3

Anyone else have this happen? You put your foot on the brakes and nothing happens. Next thing you hit the car in front of you and are standing before a jusge trying to explain your brakes failed?? Luckily I had enough evidence on the 1998 Rodeos brake problem that was suppose to have been fixed but obviously wasn't. Still had to pay court costs but beat the ticket. Be VERY careful out there!! These brakes are bad. Should have learned with my first totaled 98 Rodeo when the dear asked no questions just gave me another one that was all souped up!! Has this happened to anyone here? Please make sure your brakes don't just stop working like mine did! Oh they do reset themselves, big deal after a crash!

sheltimom3

I now have a Nissan Xterra that has real brakes that work!

darth_venom

I've a 1992 Rodeo 4X4 V6 LS on which I've installed a new master cylinder, new brake lines to the compensator (a sort of junction thing with an electronic wire going to it mounted on the fenderwell just below the master cyl.), and a new brake hose on the drivers side front wheel.

I have no access to a way to bench bleed the master cylinder. However I was told it was possible to install it without this step but it would take me much longer to bleed the system.

I started bleeding with a helper to pump and hold the brakes at the master cylinder where I connected the new lines, then moved on to the passenger side rear wheel, then at the drivers side rear wheel, then the passenger side front wheel, ending with the drivers side front wheel. I bled each wheel individually until I got nice clear new fluid comming out with no air I could detect.

I do have good brakes after 3 steady pumps, but the pressure bleeds off quickly after a few seconds until you give it the 3 pumps again. I have since repeated the bleeding process multiple times until I have gone through 4 quarts of Dot 3, and still no improvement.

The Haynes manual I have states something about bleeding something called "a modulator" first because it is possible for air to become trapped in it. However the book does not state where this "modulator" is or what it looks like, and I've had no luck in finding it. The vehicle does have ABS.

By the results I'm getting I can tell there's still air trapped in the system somewhere. Has anyone else out there ran across a problem like this? If anyone can help me solve this issue it will be much appreciated. This is the only vehicle I have and I must depend on it.

I thank you for reading, and any help you can give in advance.
Phoenix

roadhound

module is on passenger side follow brake lines to the back or from back to front you will find it .. my brake peddal goes to floor when i turn engine on is that what yours did before new master cyl. and i dont get brake fluid to rear of car

wilinda

I had a hard petal randomly so I was told to change the brake booster. Did that now the truck wants to shut off if your not on the gas or if u don't pump the brakes. Anyone know why? Or what I did wrong with the booster? I never broke this lines on the master cylinder. Oh and it's a 92 rodeo v6 4wd

buddywrecker

Hi all, I have an ABS braking issue, the light on the dash continues to illuminate (a speed wheel sensor) has been changed and occasionally when depressing the foot brake, the sensation feels like i.e. a piece of washing machine hose (corrugated pipe) being pushed through a hole thumping past the ribs.
hope that sounds clear.
has any body had an issue similar to this.
cheers
buddywrecker

bucyrus1

OK first I'm new here.
I'm also having problems with the brakes on my wife's 1998 rodeo!
She says from time to time the pedal starts jumping when she tries to stop and there's no brakes nothing she has to use the emergency brake.I'm thinking it's the brake booster iv replaced all calipers wheel cylinders pads drum pads Air Blade or gravity blade iv done both.there's no break light I need some help please

designsnprint

I have Isuzu transmission problems. I need a new car now.

rickandlynn

you need to bleed your modulation valve that's the part your brake lines go to after they leave the master cylinder it is hard to get all the air out first I would try to gravity bleed this part just open one port at a time and let the fluid drain through it until it is a good flow then tighten up tha port and do the others just like that DO NOT LET YOUR MASTER CYLINDER RUNEMPTY KEEP IT FULL AND LEAVE THE TOP OFF if that doesn't do it then use the vacuum method if that doesn't do it then power bleed them but you have to get the air out of that valve befor you can bleed your brakes one wheel at a time