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Lincoln Town Car transmission



  • ks153ntks153nt Posts: 3
    when driving at lower speeds (mostly going up hills and during shifting) I experience a quick vibration/shudder like I just ran over some warning bumps on the shoulder. Of course I did not. This is starting to happen more frequently. I'm leaning towards thinking it's the transmission. Any ideas? Thanks
  • fordfan_17fordfan_17 Posts: 175
    torque converter clutch operation have a trans shop check it out
  • ks153ntks153nt Posts: 3
    thanks fordfan. Will do. I'll let you know the results if you wish. KSNT153
  • dbrentsdbrents Posts: 1
    2005 TC Signature Limited. All of a sudden, the right turn signal (when activated) began to flash at a rate several times normal. I would normally think that a bulb would be out, but all lights are working and blinking OK (except the right side is too fast). I then thought maybe the flasher is bad, but wouldn't that effect both sides? I am now thinking that maybe there is a problem with the turn signal/multifunction switch on the steering column. Any ideas? Thanks.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    Time to change the tranny oil & filter. If you plan tokeep the car for a few more years change to the Mercon 5 oil. Otherwise use the conventional fluid.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    Is using the LEFT turn signal affected? If not, try using the Right lane changing signal. If that works OK, you may need to repalce the turn signal switch or if the Right lane change signal works - use it for signaling Right turns.
  • ks153ntks153nt Posts: 3
    ok;'s due for a tranny servicing (140K) anyway. thanks again for the response..will use the Mercon 5
  • gortiz3gortiz3 Posts: 4
    Sup Guys! Looks like we all have some good tastes around here when it comes to luxurious horsepower anyway there is a 1995 Lincoln Towncar Cartier I am looking to buy. Currently the odometer reads around 209,xxx miles. The paint is still a light tan glossy and the interior white leather shows some wear and tear, not too much. It even comes with a sunroof which works fine. All matching hubcaps, good tire tread (70%), AC and heater, power seats and all windows except one work. The price tag was originally $1900, but has been dropped to $1300.

    What concerns me is the acceleration. I'll gas it lightly and it'll take somewhat of a while to speed up. The first gear hits around 14-18 mph. Then I feel another at 26-28 mph. They are quick and you feel the pull. On my brother's 91 TC (160K miles) the gear shifts are smooth and you have to feel for them though. Also the engine's rpm (the 95 TC) will shoot up for some time before 3rd gear comes in then it levels off. Upwards 50mph+ its good. The lady claims her husband took care of it regularly. Is it wear and tear or is it something more simple? any help is appreciated. I need some wheels for work.
  • eeneeene Posts: 1
    My 95 LTC, which I LOVE, slips in and out of gear, causing the engine to rev up and then clunk back into gear. This happens intermittently, sometimes not at all for several months, then it starts again. It can happen at 70mph or 40, Usually when I am on the freeway! Sometimes, if I pull over, turn off the car, and then let it sit for a few minutes, restart, this stops for awhile. But, this has been happening for the last several years. I have had the transmission services regularly, but this does not take care of the problem. Is there something else I can do besides replacing the transmission?
  • gseterrygseterry Posts: 13
    Its hard to believe that the engine's health can cause some gosh awful trans problems.
    I took my 100K, 99 TC in for a trans tune up (Fluid, Filter and the Ford approved Valve Body upgrades) . Drove it home with the same issues, bucking and erratic shifts.
    Had buddy sneak it in to The Ford Lab (ain't it great living right here by Dearborn and the Glass House?) where they put the REAL Factory 'puter on it.
    #5 and #7 COP Coils were bad. Yah just 2, not the WHOLE set of 8 the dealer or ripoffs try to sell you. They checked the MFG codes on my original Coils and they were "D" = Really Early.
    Replaced them with 2 new ones from NAPA @ $38 each.
    I have been driving it ever since (clock shows 122K now) with NO ISSUES or complaints AT ALL.... Smooth like a TC should.
    Note here: When replacing the COP Coils (#5 and #7 are almost always the culprits) make sure you clean (brake clean) off the tops (where the apoxy is poured in to seal them) of ALL your 8 coils. Spray a healthy thick wet coating of Permatex Spray-A-Gasket - Sealant (Red stuff) all over this epoxied area. Let it soak in for a few hours. When it skins over/semi dry you're all set. It will soak in and seal the gaps in the epoxy (which shrinks with age) and keep the moisture out.
    Have a nice drive.
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 170
    When you Town Car was bucking and jerking did your computer send the service engine warning to the display panel? If so, why could you not take a basic code reader and retrieve the codes which in your case would indicate misfire at #5 and #7?
  • gseterrygseterry Posts: 13
    Have your ignition COP (Coil Over Plug) coils checked. #5 and #7 are notorious for failing first. The miss will drive the trans computer NUTS.
    I took my 94K mile - 99 TC in for trans work with this SAME problem.
    Lucky the trans shop is owned by a TRUE friend / REAL HONEST businessman. Tested all 8 with a spritz bottle of Windex. Just sprayed on top (where the epoxy seals it) of each coil.
    He only replaced the 2 bad (#5 & #7) coils @ $50 each (from NAPA) installed, instead of all 8.
    BTW: Its a $480+ job at the dealer for all 8. THEY don't want to just replace the 1 or 2 bad ones.
    Runs smooth as silk ever since.
    Note also the factory recomended trans fluid and SCREEN clean and change on a TC is 90K miles. A GOOD trans shop should also do any Ford recomended trans & valve body field upgrades out there at the same time too.
    Mine didn't need them because of the trans working perfect, so they (and the fluid change) weren't done.
    I'm at 124K today and still one happy smooth TC Owner.
  • Hate to sound like a real novice but there's no way around it. What do you mean by coils and where can I find them. Having the same issue - as the car warms up it gets jerky, before I get the transmission checked I would like to explore the whole "coil" thing.

    Thanks in advance!
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 170
    Take a look at the engine and you will notice that you don't see the spark plugs. The spark plugs, however, are there. The enigne in gseterry's car has a coil, a black round item, on top of each spark plug. His engine also does not have tradidional spark plug wires.
  • my 03t/c 150,000mi shutters at approx 42mph again at 52 . replaced fluid and filter about 3 times in last 100,000. very reputible mech checked and said coils good fuel filter semi clogged . I change it fairly regular but who knows.After changing fuel filter it did seem to to shift smooth.about 6000 miles later same thing ,changed filter but this time it didnt help.wondering if new MASsensor will help or is it time for a new tranny?????
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 170
    Before going for a new transmission, have the torque converter clutch solenoid and the shift solenoids replaced. Cleaning the MAS sensor as a routine maintenance item is a good idea but it will not stop the dreaded Ford transmission shift shudder.
  • wnwwnw Posts: 1

    Am having vibration/shudder problem with my 1999 Town Car (89,000 miles) , exactly as you desribed in June, 2008. Was it a torque converter clutch problem? My independent repair shop suggests same. What was cost to repair? Thanks.
  • my mechanic which basiclly just works on towncars said it doesn't pay and just put a rebuilt trans in cost $800 time 4 hours problem solved. good luck.
  • I recently picked up a 2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature ..60,000 klms .
    This is the first time I have owned a Lincoln so I am not sure what to expect. Is there any of you that can save me a buck by enlightening me as to what to watch for driving this model and year .. so far it the nicest ride I have owned !
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    Reading the Owner's Manual is a very good start. Reading the Maintence Schedule booklet is also recommended.

    Recommend Mobil 1 for the engine. If you just got the car, check all fluids for quality and quantity. The engine coolant will need to be replaced now if it hasn't been. Air filter?
  • gama1gama1 Posts: 3
    i have a 03 town car it was running great untill this past Monday when i was on my was home from work, i let the engine warm up for about 10 minutes when i hit ruffly 45 miles per hour the car acted like it shifted in to neutral versus the next gear and id only hear the RPM's going high and lose all acceleration .. i pulled over turned it off then attempted to make it the rest of the way and it did it again around 40mph i was over on my oil change but yesterday i changed it 75,000 mile castrol gtx for older engines/synthetic ...mine has ruffly 61,000

    ....on a weird note if i drive it in the #2 (P,R, N,D,2,1) it has no trouble passing the 40mph wall it hits when in regular i doing more damage to her by doing this.. i hear the RPM's revving super high when i drive it like this

    ... i added the Lucas transmission treatment to my trans fluid when i did my oil change this time and she still does it
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    You added the Lucas treatment to the tranny when you changed the engine oil is what I understand you to say.

    Now, change the tranny and turbine oil & install a new tranny filter. If you're going to keep the car for a long time, consider using a semi synthetic Mercon V tranny oil. It's not cheap, but it works great.
  • gama1gama1 Posts: 3
    i just spoke with the dealer they said that they don't change the tranny filters that they just back flush them since there made out of metal n they said i have no turbine oil... so my next step would be to do a tranny flush?
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    Suggest you double check that statement with an independent transmission shop.

    It would not surprise me if there was a drain plug on the turbine. It is rather difficult to have it appear in the orofice in the bottom of the housing. Change the filter.
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 170
    Transmission fluid changes are not what they used to be. When you want the fluid changed by a dealer or a national transmission service company, now a days, you have to tell them that you want the pan removed, torque converter drained if it has a plug, and a new filter installed. I have no personal experience with the vacuum fill system being used by the dealers and national transmission service companies. I still change transmission fluid the old fashion way. I have heard just as many negative comments about the "flush" process as positive comments. In the case of your transmission, the most economical thing to do is to have the fluid changed. Change the filter also. The transmission also has solenoids. While the pan is off you should consider changing-out these solenoids.
  • Back flushing with fresh fluid is a lazy way of changing fluid in the trans and gives you NO more long term cure for what ails it. :sick:
    The filter/screen is Metal . It needs to be removed, cleaned and put back in and a CLEANED pan and gasket installed. :D
    Back flushing blows any debris in/on the filter back into the pan and over time those UFO's get sucked right back into the filter screen.

    Engine Run away in Drive? The Lockup solenoid or even that clutch in the convertor has failed.
    Try one more sequence. Drive it out on the E/way to your 45mph fail threshold in "D". Depress the O/D OFF button (a light will go on on the dash indicating this has been accomplished). No more run-away? Convertor Lock-up is at fault.

    Note here, as I posted last spring, I had trans problems with my 99 Cartier (so I thought). Took it in to a REPUTABLE trans shop owned by a friend.
    Trans checked perfect. $25 to scope that out. ;)
    I had #5 and #7 cylinder coil pack (COP's) gone bad. The poor running of the engine drove the Trans-'Puter nuts trying to hold speed and keep economy up to snuff. ONLY replaced those 2 Coil Packs too. Been running and shifting perfect since.
    Don't fall for the BS that when a couple Coil-Packs go bad ALL 8 need to be replaced either. :mad:
    (1999 = 1st year of the COP's) There are codes on those packs. Mine are "D"s. VERY early in production. Epoxy sealer on top of coils will shrink and crack after time and miles. Moisture and Humidity can seep in those cracks and cause a miss on rainy or hi humidity days. After replacing the 2 bad coils my mechanic sprayed (soaked) Permatex (RED) Gasket Sealer ON top of them all. Just a little added protection.

    Just because we OWN & LOVE our Lincolns doesn't mean our wallets have holes in the bottom for Dealers and Rip-Off shops to suck from.
    Go on the internet and educate yourself. Make them Prove their diagnosis.
    I just turned 60 years young. I've been a mechanic for 45 years.
    I love my TC and want to keep it. Its my 1st.
    We're at 130,000+ miles right now and plan on a 100,000 more. :)
    Good Luck to all,
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 170
    Concerning the Coil-Packs, I am presuming that the coil-packs caused the engine to misfire. Did your service engine light come on to indicate that there was a problem with cylinders #5 and #7? Although a number of TC's are prone to transmission shift shuddering, I have not heard or seen that there is a service engine code to indicate that there may be a problem with the transmission solenoids.
  • gama1gama1 Posts: 3
    i have a 03 towncar 53,000, no check engine light on ither and recently ive started having problems with it... when i put it in drive right around 30mph in stead of shifting it acts like its going into neutral and insteead of accelerating u just hear the rmp's raising... i click the over drive button and the car is able to go faster but again i hear the rpm's super high.. has anyone ever herd of this problem??...ive changed the tranny oil already
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    Rembering the transmission is influenced by a computer, relays, & modules, it may be that some component can be reset by disconnecting the Negative cable from the battery for 30 minutes because sometimes that causes the problem to reset.

    While dealing with the battery, it is a good time to clean & lube both terminals and posts.
  • xelvis66xxelvis66x Posts: 77
    edited March 2010
    1994 Towncar with 149,000miles V8 over headcam, and will not go into reverse. When it's cold out it goes into reverse one time but if you take it out you have to restart the car? The fluid and filter were changed and this is the only service done that I know of. Don't think this has anything to do with it but it has a good miss when driving down the road. appreciate any suggestions.

    Does anyone know if this car has a computer for the tranny, and where I can plug into?
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