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Ford Windstar Starting/Stalling Problems

skyloranskyloran Posts: 1
I have a 2000 Ford Windstar SE. I recently moved to an Island off the coast of Washington and noted that when I leave the Windstar in the driveway at night the engine starts then stops (several times). I can keep the engine going for a while by adding gas pedal, but don't want to put it in gear when I am running it at the higher RPM. In the recent past this problem seemed to go away after I drive it a short distance, but this weekend the car engine would even quit after I drove it a short time. Of course when the engine quits the power brakes and power steering also quits.
After driving the car a longer distance of 7 miles to the nearest town the problem went away. The car started fine the next several times that I started it.
It also seems that when I put the car in the garage at night I don't seem to have a problem the next day.
I am concerned with the safety of my Windstar since the engine, power brakes and steering all go at the same time. Any idea what needs to be fixed?
thanks for your help
Sky
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Comments

  • Hello. I have an 03 Windstar and after starting it at times (not always), it dies right away. Then I just have to restart it and it's fine. Lately, it has also died sometimes when I slow down for a stoplight, etc. Then I just have to put it in park and start it and it's fine. The auto shop says it's really hard to tell what is wrong with it since there is no "check engine" light on. The only other problem it has is that it seems to make a noise when I turn the steering wheel, esp after I have drove on the highway at speeds more that 55 mph. The power steering fluid is just fine, though. I would appreciate any input. Thanks. Windstar03
  • I'm also having trouble with my 2000 Windstar. About 3 months ago I was turning a corner and it just died on me. No problems for a month or so. Then my check engine light came on but I haven't had any troubles with it. It smells hot inside the van once in awhile but not always. Then on Friday it died while I was driving down the street. I'm not sure if I let off the gas at all or not this time since I was not turning a corner. So my husband and I took it to the auto parts store Friday night and my computer port under the dash doesn't work so they can't tell us what's wrong. We went ahead and replaced the fuel filter Sat. to see if that helped. It idols a little rough and and the RPM'S go down sometimes while I'm sitting at a stoplight, but not always. It died again on me today when I turned a corner. Once I pull over and get stopped, I put it in park and it usually starts right back up. Today however, I put it in neutral this time and it didn't do anything so I put it in Park and then tried and it didn't start but made noise, I tried one more time and it started right up. If anybody has any ideas I would appreciate it. Since my port isn't working under the dash we can't pinpoint the problem and I hate to go buy a fuel pump and put it in if it's not the problem. Thanks in advance for your help.
    Jen
  • Hi,

    My ex-husband had the same problem with his Windstar and he told me things improved greatly when he added a container of 'fuel injection cleaner' to a FULL tank of gas.

    Hope this helps.
  • I had the same problem with my 2003 Windstar and it was a faulty O2 sensor. Since having this replaced it has been fine.
  • I have a 3.8L v6 1996 Ford Windstar. Recently, I have been having stalling issues so I used a bottle of Prestone injector cleaner and the van started to run more efficiently. Two days ago, I turned the van on and refilled some antifreeze, let it run for a few minutes, then turned off the engine. Two hours later, the van would not start. It has plenty of crank but will not turn over. I even tried to start it while using jumper cables, but still no turnover. Last year I had all wires and plugs replaced and the fuel filter replaced. I just moved to Ohio and it is fairly cold but not enough to freeze anything. Occasionally, when it won't start, I have to press the fuel pump button located in the back panel of the van and it starts right up, but this button is still pressed down. Any ideas how in just two hours, the engine will not turn over?
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    I once put a fuel injector cleaner in a car of mine and it made it run worse than it did before...started and could be driven but it was really rough. Dealer claimed the injector cleaner may have clogged things up by mobilizing crud in the tank allowing it to clog up fuel filter and injectors. I have no idea if there is any truth to this theory, but a real fuel injector cleaning and new fuel filter fixed the problem.

    Where is this fuel pump button you mention and what is it supposed to do (we have a '97 and I know nothing about this feature).
  • There is a triangular-shaped panel on the passenger side behind the wheel well at the back of the van, right next to the hatch. Open the panel and there should be a black plastic mount with a red button. If the button is not pressed down, the fuel pump is not getting fuel, I guess it was some sort of fail-safe in case the van was rear-ended. When mine won't start, I check the button, in this case, the button is still pressed down but it still won't start...
  • :mad: :cry: My 95 windstar won't start. It started fine today I did all my erranes came home and half an hour later went to go to work and the van won't start. All you get is the normal clicking sound all dash lights are normal the battery tested full even disconected the battery to reset the computer ( had to do that a few times with my old aerostar) , fuel shutoff switch was not triped the button is still down and still the van will not start. The only thing strange is when I turn the key a few times the power locks will lock and then unlock.
    dose anyone have any ideas as to what to check ?
    Thank you
    Ralph
  • konajkonaj Posts: 1
    Hello every one, I please need help with a Ford Windstar imported into Africa, It is developing all sorts of problem. There is a problem of lack of Computerised equipment to check the fault. The ABS light is on. it is very slugish not gathering speed.
    The brake has been checked and replaced, the Gear-box too, the fuel line helped a little, but it is slow again. Any one knows how to sort out this. Any help will be appreicated.
    Konaj
  • My windstar will not start... I went for drive up north , around 267km round trip no problem , than next day went out to start my van up . it turn over but did not start. like it was not getting fuel. i check the gas line relief valve not much pressure there . so i replace fuel filter, than check the fuel line relief valve lots of pressure but still it will not start does anyone know what the problem is . i need help ,please if anyone had same problem and fixes it . let me know how .
  • I got a '99 Windstar, and been having a problem recently with it starting. One day it starts and works fine. The next day, nothing. It won't make a sound or crank or anything when I turn the key. The next day it starts and works fine. Then the next day, nothing. I can't imagine it being the starter, because one day it works, one day it doesn't, but I wouldn't put it past it. Any input would be appreciated
  • Sometimes you can develop a bad "spot" on the starter and it will only work intermittently. Since it is a disk you can think of it like having a scratch on a DVD. It plays fine until you get to a certain point, then it skips a whole chapter. Depending on how bad the starter is you might "hear/feel" the bad spot when it is starting, like a lurch in the start-up. I hope this helps.
  • We gave our 1995 Windstar to our daughter and her three babies and it has always been an excellent vehicle but a couple days ago she went to the store and when she came out it wouldn't start. It will crank and the first time it seems like it fires once and then nothing other than cranking over but no starting.
    We had it towed home and I went to work cleaning off the battery that was wet from something and cleaned off the corroded terminals and connectors with a wire brush until everything was bright, shinny and clean. I got in, turned the key and walla, she started as thought nothing was wrong.
    yesterday we went out to get her a Christmas tree in the country and you got it, it wouldn't start when we wanted to come home, in fact its still out there. When we drove out there I did notice that there was a slight surging in the rpm at an idle. Not constant but about every 10-15 seconds. Any recommendations? Help!!!!
    Thanks,
    Jeff
  • pobopobo Posts: 1
    I tried to start my van on a 15 degree morning - heard a loud bang and now it won't start. Battery seems to be fine. Any suggestions?
  • jlfonzjlfonz Posts: 3
    Please let me know if you figure this out. 95 3.8 Intermittent crank--no start. It seems to be far worse now that its really cold out. Daughter takes it to practice---2 hours later--no start. Come back 4 hours later to diagnose---it starts right away. Happenning more and more often. Has new fuel pump and filter. Something came to me today as I drive away from the Van (again). My 16 year old daughter is the one having this problem--more often than I ever did (when I drove it regularily). Could it be because she is getting in and cranking the key quickly thereby not giving the fuel pump time to pressurize the system fully? Could it have something to do with the pressure regulator? Allmost everytime we let it sit for hours--it will start--colod or not.
  • ZUULUZUULU Posts: 2
    charged battery and still just getting click click click when i turn the key. please help...
  • betty18betty18 Posts: 2
    I just bought the 2001 ford windstar yesterday when we saw it we figured it just needed a new battery but the battery looked pretty new. so we purchased a new battery and it ran nice and smooth this afternoon the interior lights, windows, radio and anything electronic worked. i recieved a jumped and it did fine for 2 mins. my mechanic is saying its either the starter or alternator and is still doing the stupid click click noise if you find the solution i would really appreciate.
  • betty18betty18 Posts: 2
    My car was doing the same click click sound the day after i bought my mechanic checked and found out my cars problem was the starter and when that was done they found out it was also the alternator. so i had the tune up, oil change the alternator and starter fixed. all the parts ran up to about 300 but my mechanic barely charged us. my advise is if you can get your car started take your car and get it diagnosed but they might charge a 25 fee in autozone they dont charge for diagnosing the starter, alternator, and other parts... hope this helped!!! :)
  • negchinnegchin Posts: 2
    A lot of people seem to be having the same exact issue with stalling/restarting issue with Ford Windstar. I had the same exact problem on my '98 3.8L GL. I've had random non-starting behavior and two occasions of suddenly stalling. Then yesterday the car just died while driving and had to be towed back to the house. I was hoping it would start next morning but it wouldn't.

    The symptom was similar to a very common problem with Volvo 740's fuel pump relay. So I was thinking it would be some kind of relay issue.

    I fixed the problem today. It was PCM power relay. The toughest part was to figure out where the thing was located. Be warned this is different from PCM relay that is in the fuse box. On 3.8L engine, PCM power relay is located below the air filter box. Other models have it between the battery and fender. It is screwed on with four star shaped screws which separate the unit into two things; one side has some gears and coils, the other side has computer circuit. The one with the computer circuit is the PCM power relay. I picked one up at a junk yard for $12. It is around $150 new.

    On pre-98 Windstar, it might be called CCRM (Constant Control Relay Module), and it looks different than the newer one. I am not 100% certain they serve the same purpose.

    A mechanic at Ford dealer told me a simple way to diagnose this issue. When you turn the ignition to ON position (without turning the starter), "Service Engine Soon" light should illuminate. If that is in fact the case and the car does not start, there is something wrong with the fuel pump.

    If "Service Engine Soon" light does not come on, but all other panel lights come on, then PCM is not sending power, and most likely PCM power relay is the problem.

    I hope this helps someone having the same issue.
  • (2001 - 3.8) Recently, my girlfriend's Windstar started squealing around the belt area. At the same time, she has experienced the van stalling on two occasions. We decided to try the cheap route and change the serpentine belt. The squeal still occurs (probably more frequently) and now I'm experiencing that the van wants to stall on me. Are the two symptoms related, (i.e. - the belt is slipping and causing the alternator to not send power to wherever,) (something in the engine that isn't working and, therefore, causing slippage of the belt,) or something else? I cannot yet determine the cause of the squeal since it doesn't seem to want to do it when I'm under the hood, just while driving (go figure). I can't really tell if anything is wrong with the water pump other than a tiny bit of wobble in its revolutions. There are no obvious drips from a weep hole or any sounds. I can't imagine that a failing water pump would make the engine stall anyway. I would appreciate any leads as I would rather fully find the problem and fix it than to blindly replace things. Thank you.
  • Did you find the problem causing the stalling? My wife's 2003 is doing the same thing, I replaced the tensioner but it still does it, it seem to be worse when cold.

    Steve
  • Any luck figuring out the problem. My wife's van has the same symptoms and issues!
  • Well, her dad took it in to his brother's shop and ended up changing both the alternator and the water pump. There wasn't any stalling after that. A few chirps from the belt when cold; and when I say chirps, I mean loud squirrels. I'm willing to bet it was the alternator causing the near-stalls.
  • smacmo1smacmo1 Posts: 2
    edited February 2010
    About a year before the warranty ran out the vehicle began the stall feature I see , mentioned here. Thedealer had the vehucle about once every three moniths for about a week with no answers as to what was going on. Finally in Oct 007, I got fed up after walking five miles to find a phone, had the van towed in and told the service writer to replace the fuel pump, filter and sensors. Well, it worked just fine after that until about nine months ago and the stall returned ( May 009. Now, there is no particular interval between failures, could be a day, week month or more. Afer running about 20 minutes, the va will subtilly jerk, vibrate as if the timing was off then stall whenever you bring the van to a halt, no matter where. The engine will crank, start run about 5 seconds then stop. This will happen for at least 3-4 hours then go away. We had it towed to the dealership Friday, they pushed it into the garage found nothing amiss. Suggestions?
  • nicky99nicky99 Posts: 1
    it started around october 2009. my van was doing a jerking motion then started stalling while driving. the first auto shop changed the air control switch and mass airflow sensor. my van did good for 2 weeks then it started again. so the second diagnostic test from a different auto place said upper and lower air intake gaskets, but i had to get an upgraded kit from a Ford dealer. It worked for about one week. The 3rd auto shop found nothing, but some codes dealing with the mass airflow, so they reset the codes. That lasted a few days. The 4th diagnostic test, they said it was the computer, but now my van will not start at all. i had the starter and alternator tested. the test came back good. i had my battery cells tested, they came back good. i have paid out $2,000.00 and the van still wont start. i just paid 578.00 for the computer chip from the dealer, who now says they need to put in a new starter before they program the chip. the starter and labor fees will be $511.00. Is there anyone with the same problem?
  • I have a 2003 Ford Windstar, same problem,Ford is covering up the problem. It's in the PCM Module',or computer brain, CCRM (constant control relay module).It has a Texas Instrament Chip thats bad. I see it from 1995 til 2003 . The bast+_+ know about it but never did a recall. Chip controls everything from trany. Acts up sporadicly like my spelling does.Dealer's know too, but it's a good money maker amd cheap fix , but not by them.
  • erics5erics5 Posts: 1
    brother in law same problem.......cam senser squealing and made it stall....
  • The cause of your 2 symptoms are related. The culprit is called a crank angle sensor. www.advanceautoparts.com part number 30-S2601. Sells for $46. This sensor sits just behind the water pump. Look for a round black plastic cover with 2 very small bolts. It also has 1 bolt and washer that hold it in place. It has 2 wires connected to it. It is located just behind the water pump assembly and in front of and below the power steering pump assembly. This is not just a sensor that is mounted to the engine, No no no. It is an assembly with a long shaft and a gear that is about 12 inches long. The problem is that near the top of this sensor there is a bushing that goes bad. When it does, the first symptom that you will notice is a squeal sound coming out of the belt area. A fan belt squeal. The next symptom that happens is the motor will stall. You can restart the motor but it usually takes a few seconds to get it going. Then you hear that awful squeal sound again, and then it stalls again. Frustrating. Just order a replacement sensor and install. As I recall, it should take an hour or so to install. The problem is there is almost no room to work. You have to loosen the power steering pump assembly (4 bolts and 1 of them is just under a copper tube....so remove the 3 easy ones and then as you are loosening the 4th, just lift up on the pump assembly as you go...it will comes up just fine). You don't have to remove any of the hoses or lines, just loosen the power steering pump assembly to give you clearance to lift out the sensor. Then sensor has just 1 bolt to unscrew and 1 electrical connector to remove and it lifts up and out of the engine. It comes up on an angle towards the power steering pump. If you need more room, pull the 2 windshield wipers arms off, remove the black plastic cowl, and the plastic cowl under that. couple of bolts and those plastic screws and those windshield washer hoses, and an electrical connector for the windshield wiper motor. This also gives enough room to put new spark plugs in. The front 3 pugs are pretty easy, the back 3 are a little tougher. I laid a quilt blanket across the engine area and laid on top of the engine area to reach those back 3. Anyway, hope this info helps somebody. Oh yeah,FYI, the purpose of the crank angle sensor is to send a signal to the vans computer to adjust the timing. When the bushing goes bad, the sensor gives a false reading, throwing the timing way out of whack which stalls the motor. Good luck.
  • The cause of your 2 symptoms are related. The culprit is called a crank angle sensor. www.advanceautoparts.com part number 30-S2601. Sells for $46. This sensor sits just behind the water pump. Look for a round black plastic cover with 2 very small bolts. It also has 1 bolt and washer that hold it in place. It has 2 wires connected to it. It is located just behind the water pump assembly and in front of and below the power steering pump assembly. This is not just a sensor that is mounted to the engine, No no no. It is an assembly with a long shaft and a gear that is about 12 inches long. The problem is that near the top of this sensor there is a bushing that goes bad. When it does, the first symptom that you will notice is a squeal sound coming out of the belt area. A fan belt squeal. The next symptom that happens is the motor will stall. You can restart the motor but it usually takes a few seconds to get it going. Then you hear that awful squeal sound again, and then it stalls again. Frustrating. Just order a replacement sensor and install. As I recall, it should take an hour or so to install. The problem is there is almost no room to work. You have to loosen the power steering pump assembly (4 bolts and 1 of them is just under a copper tube....so remove the 3 easy ones and then as you are loosening the 4th, just lift up on the pump assembly as you go...it will comes up just fine). You don't have to remove any of the hoses or lines, just loosen the power steering pump assembly to give you clearance to lift out the sensor. Then sensor has just 1 bolt to unscrew and 1 electrical connector to remove and it lifts up and out of the engine. It comes up on an angle towards the power steering pump. If you need more room, pull the 2 windshield wipers arms off, remove the black plastic cowl, and the plastic cowl under that. couple of bolts and those plastic screws and those windshield washer hoses, and an electrical connector for the windshield wiper motor. This also gives enough room to put new spark plugs in. The front 3 pugs are pretty easy, the back 3 are a little tougher. I laid a quilt blanket across the engine area and laid on top of the engine area to reach those back 3. Anyway, hope this info helps somebody. Oh yeah,FYI, the purpose of the crank angle sensor is to send a signal to the vans computer to adjust the timing. When the bushing goes bad, the sensor gives a false reading, throwing the timing way out of whack which stalls the motor. Good luck.
  • i had the same problem. after changing the fuel pump 2 times. the coil twice. change the mas air flow sensor... finally found the problem... its the fuel safety switch. its located by the driver door down by the brake release.. try that!!!!
  • try the fuel safety switch.
  • having the exact same problem.
    does the fuel safety switch have some wires going into it and about a 1/2 hose connected to it as well. how much does it cost and can i only get it from ford?
  • wasdkhwasdkh Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 windstar. Problem only occures with the outside temp. drops into the 50's. The car will start perfectly first thing in the morning. It will run about 3-5 minutes and then it will die. It doesn't matter if you are driving down the road or sitting in the driveway. Once it dies you have to turn the key all the way to the off positition and wait a few minutes before it will turn over. If you don't wait and just try to start it up right away it will crank but will not turn over (like it is not getting fuel). Usually once it get up to operating temp it will run great once you get it moving. On warm days and mornings don't have this problem. Only codes we have are lean on bank 1 and bank 2. Can not figure out what the temperature has to do with it and why it acts like its out of gas.
  • hinehine Posts: 1
    We are having same problem-have you found the cause and a solution yet?
  • Sounds like the :"Mass Air Flow Sensor" !!!
  • I have a 98 Windstar and I was driving home on the freeway and my Check Engine light started flashing. I drove about two more miles with it running fine and then I exited off the freeway. I came to a stop and it began to run rough. I continued home about a mile up a hill and by the time I got into my driveway it was barely running. I shut it off and tried to restart it and it would not start. It was late so I left it alone and drove my wifes car the following day. I had her go out and try to start it when I was at work and she said that it let out a gasp and then nothing. I got home and tried to start it and was able to get it to fire but as it did it sounded like very hard Detonation. I have had the intake off in the past to clean the EGR ports but this one has me baffled. I have not scanned it yet.
  • Hi,
    I need help. My van was running fine for a 13 year old car up to a week or so ago and then one morning I went out and it wouldn't start. It will turn over but it won't fire. The battery is fairly new. I had the alternator and the starter tested and they passed. I disconnected the fuel line and tested the fuel pump. It works. The fuel line is not blocked. I replaced the fuel filter. The fuel is getting to the injectors. I stuck a screw driver in the end of the spark plug cable and placed it close to the manifold, tried to start the car and there was a spark. I sprayed starter fluid into the air intake and tried to start it with no change. Take the spark plugs out and they are wet with gas. I changed the spark plugs, but it still wouldn't start. Oh the fuel pump and ignition fuses in the under the hood fuse panel are not burnt out.

    Can anybody tell me what could make the van work one day and not the next day that I have not tested or replaced, yet? There were no indications of a problem that would have given me a heads up before this happened - no stalling or anything.

    Is there a relay that I haven't considered or checked? Could the ignition coil cause this even though I'm getting spark to the spark plugs? Could it be the computer? If so where is the computer?

    Thanks,
    Carey
  • Hey. I'm not a mechanic....I just have a 03 Ford Windstar. Couple of thoughts for you. The gas reaching your injectors has to under pressure. There's a real easy way to check: Turn the key to ON one click below starting the van (this energizes the fuel pump (which is located inside the gas tank)). Now, with the key still ON, go inside the engine compartment and find the fuel lines just before the injectors. You are looking for a small plastic cap that you can unscrew. It is attached directly onto the fuel line and looks something like the little plastic cap that you unscrew to check the air pressure in tires. Find it, then unscrew the cap. Nothing will happen at this point...the cap is just a dust cover. You will now see what looks like the thing that you put air into on a tire. And guess what....you simply poke a screwdriver tip into the tip of it and you should see gas spew out under pressure which means it should look like paint being sprayed out of a spray can. If it does spew out, your gas supply is good. If it doesn't, could be a fuel pump not pumping....could also be the fuel cut-off switch ( this is the thing that shuts off the fuel supply if your van got hit in an accident. It could be bad or just tripped. ) I assume you have a Chilton manual...look it up and find where its located and test it.
    Fuel pump is little tricky to test because its in the gas tank. Usually, when you turn the key to ON, you can hear the fuel pump turn ON for a few seconds. You have to hang your head outside the van and listen in the direction of the gas tank. You are listening for a noise that only should last for a few seconds. Sounds like an electric motor turning on. Normally if you can hear it, you will have fuel pressure. If you can't hear it, you need a new fuel pump. Which means you have to drop your gas tank to replace it. I did an oldsombile alero in the driveway and it took about 3 hours star to finish.
    An engine only needs 3 things to run....oxygen, gas, and spark. You've got spark. You got air. You may not have the gas pressure that you need. Sure hope this helps.
  • First of all, I'm not a mechanic either, but sometimes I just go with common sense along with a basic knowledge. Sounds like you're on the right diagnostic track. Sounds also as if you're like me, trying to solve the problem in the cheapest route possible, if not free. You're getting fuel. You say you're getting spark with the screwdriver test. I like that test also, although I prefer to keep the sparkplug on the end so I can visually test both the sparkplug and the wires at the same time, as well as me thinking it's safer. My question is if you checked spark on all cylinders, not just one. If you did and you are getting spark, then the only logical thing to go on next is, with fuel and spark being present, the spark must be at the wrong times.
  • Thanks. Could it still be a fuel issue when I mentioned that I tried starter fluid in the air intake and it wouldn't start?
  • Well I wanted to give some feedback and tell you all how I fixed my stalling issues. First it's a 2003 Windstar LX. My stalling issues started after I replaced the alternator. The stalling was under light acceleration and at about 2200 RPMs. In order to get the car to re-start, you had to turn the key to off, then start it. I had the alternator checked but it showed that it was fine. I cleaned out Mass Airflow Sensor and the IAP(?) small valve sitting on top of the engine. The stalling continued. I felt like it was electrical since it just stopped running, like the key was turned off.

    So, I went back to O'reilly's and talked with the counter guy. He came out and put a meter on the alternator and it was only putting out 69 Amps. It should have been 135 Amps. But it immediately went back up to 133 Amps. So, he replaced the alternator and it's now been about 3 weeks without any problems. So, I think the lesson is, the problems one person might be having, will not necessarily prove to be the problems you are experiencing. BUT, I suggest that you look at the electrical system, if your issues are like mine.

    Good Luck!!
  • mfranco1mfranco1 Posts: 2
    edited June 2011
    I am having the exact same problem with my windstar and I need your help to identify what a fuel safety switch is.

    I have called the dealer and gthey don't know what I'm talking about. Please help.

    Thanks
  • jlfonzjlfonz Posts: 3
    I'm not the one that posted that but---the fuel safety switch should be inside the cubby hole hole in back on the driver side---it's just a red button essentiually. Most cars keep it behind the passneger side kick panel. I still to this day have my problem and still only on the coldest of days. I've pulled all of the seats out of it and use it as a family pick up truck now anyway--I think I had finally traced mine to the device mounted directly to and under the battery box. I don't remember what it is. It's easier to see when on a rack and I had disconnected and reconnect the harness to it hoping it might clear a bad connection.
  • mmarino55mmarino55 Posts: 3
    I was driving with cruise control on, suddenly my radio turned off and my power locks started going crazy, they went up and down rapidly on there own for a few seconds .at this time I smelt some sort of burning plastic. I tried to turn off the car in neutral to try and restart the power to get my radio back on and I realized the car would not turn off. When I got home to turn off the car I had to disconnected the battery to turn off because even in off position with the key out of the ignition the car would not turn off. Now the car won't turn on. When I turn the key nothing happens. What could be the problem? It is defiantly electric or at least I think. Please help! Thank you god bless.
  • mmarino55mmarino55 Posts: 3
  • mmarino55mmarino55 Posts: 3
    Update. Car will not hold charge
  • My 2003 windstar has been a bad girl. Seriously, I can't figure out what the problem is. For months my battery would die, new battery, and it would just drain. I figure that something is draining the battery, and after a series of events, like changing the battery cable and getting a huge knot on the side of my eye, and buying a light tester, I had my husband take my battery in (Oreillys) to be fully charged...and when he put it back...we turned in on and it turned over, coughed a few times, then clicked several times...like when you stick your finger in a ceiling fan. My dad is great with cars, but he lives far away, but our during our phone conversation, he had me try turning it on again, and it didn't click but stayed silent. HOWEVER, my gauges (gas, RPM, Speed, and oil) began tremblings, the moving from one side to the other several times. When I pulled the key out, they continued to move, and the dinging that happens when you have your key in and door open...was going on! The key was OUT! It was freaky!

    See, I have been trying to check my fuses to see if one of them is draining my batter, but I can't get them all out (of course, I am very careful to replace them exactly where and how they came out), but it doesn't really matter at this point if my van won't start. The alternator is good, and I think the starter is good, as before we had the battery charged, my husband would jump the van, and it would run just fine, and when the battery charged enough from running, it would turn on just fine until it was drained again.

    Any help would be highly appreciated to helping me with finding what I am doing wrong or not doing at all...or doing what shouldn't be done.
  • rkarkirkarki Posts: 1
    Hi,
    Thanks so much for your post a the procedure to change the sensor. I am based in Canada and have a 2003 Windstar with exactly the symptoms described in your post. Please let me know if "Crank Angle Sensor" is same as "Crank Sensor" ? Because when I called the dealer he was only aware of Crank Sensor and not the other.
    Thanks
    rkarki
  • hello,

    my name id Manuel and had a problem with my 2003 windstar.

    In respons to you question, I'm sorry but on't have any information to share with you. I had to take it to a mechanic and he took care of the problem.
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