Sienna emmission engine check light
Sienna with 98,000 miles. We had an engine check light that would not go away after resetting the module. Changed the gas cap still went off. Finally had them replace a few hoses and it looks like its all better now.
So if you get some emmission codes it could all just be a hose going to the charcoal canister. Costs me 100 ($51 for the engine check and $49 for a hose that costs a buck). But you can fix it yourself if you have hose to replace it.
So if you get some emmission codes it could all just be a hose going to the charcoal canister. Costs me 100 ($51 for the engine check and $49 for a hose that costs a buck). But you can fix it yourself if you have hose to replace it.
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I bought a scanner a while ago, back then it was $105 but I've seen them for half that much lately. They're useful to have around.
I've used it maybe 3 times for our fleet, and at least 2 other times for friends, so it already paid for itself.
Well the tech at toyota says its the vacuum sensor valve. So purchased one at toyota for $67.00 and I installed it. It was pretty easy just had to remove the air filter top and the component is located on the back. It has a wire connector that comes off pretty easy. It also has two vacuum lines one has a hose one does not.
You can remove one hose pretty easy, then the wire connector then remove the 2 philips screws. then you can pull the unit off which also disconnects the other port. Reverse to reinstall. Easy toyota wanted $50+ to install it.
For the engine codes I had there was a TSB to replace the VSV I told the tech prior to the work. I guess they ran a test and got the correct error this time. Instead of just wanting to replace the charcoal canister like they wanted to do. That canister costs $270.00 part alone.
The only thing that pissed me off is my sienna repair book said the 2001 had the VSV on the fender instead of right on the air filer box like < 2001 Siennas. If I'd known the VSV was right on the box I would have tested it and replaced it on the first round and saved $100.00 bucks. Hate when repair books are not specific. That and the picture of the unit was not exactly right.
So hopefully the engine code is gone for good now.
Anyone have an idea about this code, decreasing gas mileage and engine revving?
Thanks
My question is, could the rear cam sensor get defective under the above circumstances. as it is not located in the area of the timing belt that it could be damaged or disturbed during repairs. Your suggestion would be appreciated.
repair place that checked it for emission leaks with smoke. They of course found leaks all over the place. The gas cap area (already replaced the cap once) and the canister leaked as well. They were talking 1500.00 to do the repairs and still would not guarrentee the engine light would go off. So we dumped the van.
Sickens me that these sensors cause so many problems and the repair people are clueless to the answer.
The repair place did say we had the wrong gas cap. But we got it from toyota, in fact the parts place needed our vin number because toyota had about 3 different caps for that year model. I guess the idiot gave us the wrong cap. Would not be supprised if that was the problem.
But the van would stall and got bad gas mileage so it was getting to be too much of a problem. I can live with the gas mileage but stalling was too dangerous.
140,000 miles - car passes emmissions test levels but fails because of these codes and misfire codes. The CEL is on, and from other post, I checked the following:
1) the gas-cap- it whooshes when I open the tank after being parked for 1 hour.
2) removed the canister - it's lightweight and dry, and does not appear to be cracked, but it had heavy gas fumes. Hoses look new and are tight.
3) solenoid valve at canister - tested fine. Connections are good.
4) upper solenoid valve at air filter - tested fine. Connections are good.
5) upper hose at air filter - looks good.
What's next to check? Any advice?
I did not believe they knew what the problem was, because why would it leak all over the place. It should have been only one location. It was apparent they were trying to get me to repair things that did not need repair.
We traded the van in but if it were the oil sludge issue. I would have still been covered under the toyota extended warranty for sludge which is 100k I think. Would have been nice to know this could have been the problem all along.
Now that I think about it I am pretty sure a sludge issue would also have caused stalling. But the van would work fine most of the time. Just have that dumb engine light on.
When I took the van in to the shop, I told them that I though everything was related and to just do the oil change and we will replace the back tire. If the (malfunction indicator lamp light) does not go off, should I spend the $150 for them to check to see if anythying else is wrong or do you think they are related and wait a while?
I could use some help.
Thanks
Having said that, the fact that 3 lights went on at the same time imply it may be a problem too complex for a DIYer.
"..three lights jumped on.."
CE, VSC, and TC...??
I know you said ABS, but...
And only "topped off" the fuel, or didn't fully seat the gas cap..??