Toyota Corolla Electrical Problems

flyrchrisflyrchris Member Posts: 1
My wife called last week from the Target parking lot and said the car would start but wouldn't stay on. When I got in it, if I gave it gas it would stay on. I drove it around the parking lot and noticed when I turned the A/C on, the parking brake light came on and when I signaled left the wipers would come on. I immediately drove to the nearest repair place, which happend to be a Toyota dealership. The tech said the entire main fuse box had melted and that he smelled something burning. They have had to replace two new computers and still no answer. Anyone ever had this. 2000 Corolla with only 82000 miles.


  • irismgirismg Member Posts: 345
    Try the alternator/voltage regulator.

    I guess I've been lucky with my '98!
  • geopappigeopappi Member Posts: 1
    i ordered some blue LEDs for my corolla... to change the lights in the instrument cluster and the climate controls from white to blue

    i unplugged the light from behind where the thelittle guys are that have the arrows going to their feet or face

    i realized i didnt have the right LEDs to put in there so i went to plug it back in and the LED blew and i believe it shorted out the spedemoter, gas guage, and temp guage as well because they wont light up now

    please help
  • dictatormaodictatormao Member Posts: 2
    I've been trying to deal with this problem but have had no luck. I'll describe some problems and solutions I have tried. Please see if you can help me.

    I've been having trouble with the Starter. The symptoms are intermittent. Sometimes the starter will not crank. It'll just "Click". If I turn the ignition enough times it will start. (I have Sears Die Hard Gold Less <2 yrs old)

    One time when I started up the car the starter motor kept cranking with the engine resulting in a noisy clicking sound. When I shut the engine off through the ignition and pulled out the key the starter kept cranking! I had to unplug the battery to get it to turn off.

    Since then I have replaced the starter. It was ok for a while but sometimes it will still only "click" when I turn the ignition and eventually (after many tries) it will catch and crank the engine.

    Today my wife while driving the car complained of a noisy engine and the automatic "lighting" didn't turn on. She had to turn on the parking lights manually.

    Note: I have had the engine swapped with the same engine model 1ZZFE. Old engine was eating oil and then died cause wify didn't check oil. Thank you to ProLong prob eating my seals.

    Sometimes when the gas tank is filled the motor will rev and drop rpm for a little while and then return to normal. (this has appeared since engine swap)

    I know I have a lot of questions but please if you have any solutions to the multiple of questions I have post them.

    Thank you for everything.

  • nadunrnadunr Member Posts: 1
    Park lights in Corolla/Yaris/Allion are veri bright and consume lot of battery power. Are we suppposed not to switch on park lights when parking? or can we switch on park lights when parking?
    is there a way to have an on off switch for separetly for lights in the bumper.?
    pls give ur suggestions
  • dictatormaodictatormao Member Posts: 2
    The parking lights are automatic. There is a photosensitive sensor dome near your "defrost" windshield. The only way to keep the light from coming on is to pull the emergency brake before you start the engine. There is a switch in the e-brake. If you want to bypass the automatic lighting system you have to prob splice that line and short it. But do your research in the electrical manual...that is only my assumption and is not recommended.
  • jrc268jrc268 Member Posts: 1
    My sister drives an 04 Corolla and is having a problem with the heating system. The heater will work while the car is driving, but suddenly switch to cold air when the car is stationary (i.e. while at a traffic light). What could the problem be (electrical issue, blower motor?)?

    Also, for two days the temp. gauge would not report an increase in engine temperature until midway through the day. Any thoughts.
  • gierbogierbo Member Posts: 1
    I am driving a '92 corolla with over 190K miles. I never have any issues other than regular maintenance until recently. The problem comes and go. I go start up the car fine, drive around and stop. When I come back it would not start. Lights, radio, works fine but it will not do anything. If I wait awhile and try again, voila, the car will start with no problems. I can be driving the car with no problems for days and suddenly, it just would not start. The battery, terminals, starter, alternator all new. Distributor cap, cables, spark plugs in good shape. Checked terminal cables and looks ok. Any ideas???? :mad:
  • thunder12thunder12 Member Posts: 1
    no warning just started car and then set heat and tried to start fan no go at all. Checked fuse 31 and also36 both good. Wondering if anyone knows of more fuses to check or if anyone has had this problem and what they have done to correct it. Car is a 2003 toyota corrolla. Thank you in advance if anyhelp out there.
  • poppy10poppy10 Member Posts: 2
    We have the same problem with our 92. Some time has gone by since your posting. Any news? Has anyone solved the mystery? On ours, I wonder if it has anything to do with the position of the steering wheel or shift lever (maybe the contacts). Or maybe some coil or solenoid just doesn't work when it gets hot? Weird. After a while it starts up fine. Thanks for any help. Poppy10
  • npentznpentz Member Posts: 1
    Hi, did you all ever figure out your surprise no start problems? I've had two cars that did this, one was down for 6 months because it was totally random when it would die or not start, and they had to have it hooked up to an Ossiloscope with their desk person watching it for half a day to catch it.. Both cases though, it was a bum pick-up coil in the distributor.
    Good luck!
  • bigshot2021bigshot2021 Member Posts: 1
    I have replaced the battery and terminals, and the starter. Had the Alternator tested and passed, and two weeks after I got it back on the road my fiance wa eating lunch and went to leave to go to work and the car would not start. I got in the car and none of the dash lights or windows would work (total electrical failure). So I got the car ready to jump and when I turned the car ON the radio worked and Door Ajar light lit up, then I turned the key to start it and everything seized (total failure again). I am completely stumped. Checked all the fuses, battery again, and I am lost. After re-checking everything, the Door Ajar light came on again then same thing, everything seized when I tried to start it. Can anyone help, Pleeese!
  • poppy10poppy10 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks, npentz! We will check it out. I have since sold the car to my nephew, but I will pass this on to him.

    BigShot: Here is a list of the ideas I have come up with, arranged in order of increasing difficulty:

    1. play with the steering wheel for a while, and then it starts right up.

    2. try putting on the brake and moving the gear shift into neutral and cranking it again.

    3. buy or make a remote starter switch

    4. replace the pick-up coil in the distributor.

  • glo3glo3 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 92 corolla with 65,000 miles, and the same exact problem. It seems to only happen in the summer when it's very hot outside and only sometimes. Three mechanics have diagnosed it as intermittent distributor failure and sugest changing the distributor. So my question is should I do it? with a new distributor for $360 or rebuilt for $200. I hate to put money in the car as it's so old but it is a great city car. Any ideas, comments, suggestions??? Thanks
  • bajarbajar Member Posts: 1
    I have 2001 Corolla with less than 50,000 miles and it was working properly. Never had any problems since then. One day when I was on the road the car suddenly stopped in the middle of the road and won't start anymore. A technician came in and have checked all the possible causes (fuses, fuel supply, spark plugs, etc) and they are all OK. The engine was cranking when you switch on the ignition it but it won't start (run). Before the problem occurred, my gas was just 1/4. I filled up full tank of gas. I drove 20 miles and then the car suddenly stopped running on the road. The guy told me it might be the bad gas but not sure because I need to bring my car to the shop to check it.
    Is there anybody had an issues like this before?

    Thank you very much in advance for helping me with this matter
  • mnfmnf Spokane WaMember Posts: 405
    Bad gas or clogged fuel filter sounds it like could be the issue.

    Good Luck

  • backybacky Twin CitiesMember Posts: 18,946
    Another possibility is a failed fuel pump, but if the pump was bad it probably would have failed before 50k miles.
  • lipperjlipperj Member Posts: 1
    I have intermittant power windows on my 2000 Corolla. Any tips?

    left front and rear right window will stop working occasionally, It doesn't matter the switch being used
  • mnemomnemo Member Posts: 1
    My 1997 toyota corolla just started to act funny. When I step on the brakes the headlights, and dashboard lights including radio and clock go out but then come back on when I step off the brake. can anyone give me a suggestion? The car runs fine otherwise.Thanks.
  • adenbyadenby Member Posts: 1
    I replaced my brake light switch on my girlfriends 94 however it didn't do anything im wondering if at this point and time it'd be a fuse or the wire harness is shot any input? :mad:
  • djw918djw918 Member Posts: 1
    2000 Corolla. My battery light came on, car drove for a while then died. Will not hold jump start. Is this an alternator problem? Cost of repair? Thanks!
  • terceltomterceltom Allentown, PSMember Posts: 1,024
    Not sure what you mean "will not hold jump start". Anyway, the easiest way to check the alternator is to jump the car/battery as you would to start it. Now remember, if your battery is really old/bad, it will take some time of idling or reving of the jumping car after the jumper cables are attached to actually give your car enough charge to start your car. After it's running remove the jumper cables, then remove one of the attached battery cables from your battery after the car is running. If the car remains running your alternator is fine, if the car stops upon removing one of the battery cables, your alternator is bad. Cost of decent 5 year battery is approx. $70.00 to $80.00, Cost of after market alternator anyware from $150.00 to $200.00 and about $50.00 to install. Genuine Toyota alternator would be more.
  • AspenLeavesAspenLeaves Member Posts: 2
    I love my Toyota however it has died 2-3 times while running in the last two weeks, the first time I thought it was because I was low on gas, but I still had a half gallon. The 2nd time I was on a neighborhood street thank god. Someone looked at it and replaced a fuse. I'll have to look at the diagram and figure out what it controls. Today it died in another bad place in the middle of an intersection and fortunately the guy behind me jumped out and pushed me to a safe place. Then same guy who fixed it before came and helped me and replaced the fuse with a 20 (amp?) fuse. He said there should be no problem. And it drove home, however I have no wish to drive it with an infant or in icy snowy roads and cause an accident because it dies again. However I need to truly fix it, if 15 amp was used before is it really wise to replace it with a 20? Who do I take it to? I've had this thing for 11 years now, never really had a problem except for the driver window, and the solenoid switch. What do I do first? Economically times are hard, paying for costly repairs that result in nothing isn't what I'm looking for.
  • terceltomterceltom Allentown, PSMember Posts: 1,024
    First off if you only had a half gallon of gas in your car you WERE very low on gas. You realize with this small amount of gas left, any slight inclined could have caused your car to stop. Secondly, I'm not sure why a fuse would cause your car to stop. Thirdly, replacing a fuse with a higher amperage fuse is only hiding your electrical problem, not solving it. Suggest finding a technician you could trust so you have no doubts that paying for a repair is going to solve your problems.
  • ezee2ezee2 Member Posts: 4
    Which fuse control the power window glass of 2004 Corolla?Which fuse control the power window glass of 2004 Corolla?
    The fuse spouse to be Under nee of steering wheel, on fuse box cover one mark refer to 30A P/W fuse iCon, fuse spouse to be there right?

    Wondering no referring fuse there is empty slot. Please help me to find out what control of power window fuse or Rely and where they located.
    By the way I&#146;m asking because all window stop working automatic door are working fine.
  • tpaswatertpaswater Member Posts: 1
    I have a 91 corolla. there is a couple of problems with it. one the clutch is out witch isnt that big of a deal but it wont turn over with the key. i didnt know if that was because the clutch is out or if it was the starter or something. If you get it rolling and dump the clutch it will start as long as the key is turned on but that is the only way i can get it started. If anyone knows the answer or has a suggestion msg me back. thanks
  • ashleighpaigeashleighpaige Member Posts: 1
    i'm having the same problem now, what did you find out?
  • harbinx1harbinx1 Member Posts: 1
    My 1998 Toyota Corolla right rear power door lock stopped functioning about 2 years ago. Six weeks ago my left front control button stopped operating both of the right side door locks, but continued operating both left side door locks. Using the key in the right front door locked and unlocked the right front door and the two leaft side doors, but the right front control button does not work. Last week a friend who is a decent mechanic pulled apart the right rear door panel and monkeyed with the apparatus. Then I used the left front control button to lock the doors. They locked, but would not unlock. We tried to locate the main power door lock fuse, but could not find it. Now I have to manually lock and unlock all the doors. Can you help me?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I don't have electrical schematics for your specific vehicle, but normally the way you have to trouble shoot these problems is to start with the switches on the drivers door. The power for door locks and windows goes there first, and then out to the other doors. The problems you find in this area are typically:
    - drivers side switch bad
    - individual doorlock or window regulator bad
    - wiring bad between the drivers side door jamb and drivers door, due to many years of flexing and unflexing every time the drivers door is opened.

    These problems are not technically difficult to identify and fix, just tedious. You'll need a voltmeter/ohmmeter. Start at the drivers door switch, and verify that each switch is working properly with a voltmeter. Then move the voltmeter to the doors, and verify that the same voltage that you had on the drivers switch, has made it thru the wiring to the individual doors. Using the drivers switch, and the meter on the doors, verify each is working properly. Then move to meter out the door switches. Verify that the remote switch is working correctly, and then also providing the voltage to the locking mechanism.
  • bburnettbburnett Member Posts: 1
    The battery in my 03 Corolla seems to be slowly draining, as if I had a light or something on somewhere in the car. Whenever I start the car, it cranks slowly like the battery is really low. I've tried cutting the engine and then restarting after driving it around and it starts back up more quickly, as though the battery has charged some. I've checked everywhere and it doesn't seem like I've left anything on. Also the hydrometer on my battery seems to indicate that the battery is just fine. When I open the doors after leaving it off for a while the dome light is really dim. It's like something is slowly drawing power from the battery when the car is off but I can't figure out what. This is very annoying and I really don't want to take it to a shop or replace the battery until I have a better idea of what's going on. Any insight into this would be greatly appreciated.
  • terceltomterceltom Allentown, PSMember Posts: 1,024
    Very simply put, it sounds like you need a new battery. The alternator is good if the battery is charging. You know batteries don't last forever? If this is the original battery you extended the average life of an OEM battery. Oh, and disregard that hydrometer test, it doesn't mean much.
  • grandtotalgrandtotal Member Posts: 1,207
    My guess would be a poor earth (ground) for one or both of the brake lights. That's a problem that plagued your generation of Corolla and the preceding generation. That's where I'd start looking.
  • massodmassod Member Posts: 10

    went o the mall this afternoon. when I came out and tried to start the engine, it didn't. according the manual, I should take it to the dealer because of the warning light symbol. I called the tow truck company. the guy checked the the car and told me that it could be either battery or the alternator. after a few minutes of charging the battery, I tried to start the car and it wouldn't. so, the guy told me the alternator is the problem. so, he took the car to the shop for complete checkup and called back to let me know that I need a new alternator and a battery. so, my question is what happend to the "QUALITY"? I have ownd 10 cars in my life and never had an alternator problem. the technician told me that it's going to cost me about $500 - $600. unfortunatley, I lost my job last month and can't afford it. what's the reasonable cost to put in a new alternator? the technician price is based on AC-Delco alternative and Interstate battery. Thank a million in advance of your help.

  • terceltomterceltom Allentown, PSMember Posts: 1,024
    You don't mention what year your Corolla is, or even how long you have owned it. Unfortunately batteries and alternators do wear out. Sounds like your history of trading or buying cars fequently has allowed you to luck out until now by not having to replace either of these. Your quote for replacing these two items seems high to me compared to what my garage would charge me. Figure $100 for the battery and $150 for the alternator and two hours labor tops to install these items and I come up with about $400 total on the high end. Shop around.
  • grandtotalgrandtotal Member Posts: 1,207
    Terceltom, it's a 2006 - see the title of the post.

    Massod, It is a bit soon for an alternator and a battery. My guess is that they have not both failed, or that one is the result of the other. Stuff happens, no car is perfect.
  • massodmassod Member Posts: 10
    Thanks for your response. It has 42,000 miles on it. I'll take it to another shop for repair or doitmyself, if they don't drop their price.
  • nlopez7387nlopez7387 Member Posts: 1
    the light does not turn on except signal lights, door open etc.. odometer,speed,rpm,gas, water no illumination light to be able to see panel i cant see. dimmer switch stop work including dome light, a/c lights i found two fuses that were burn out but i want to make sure it is the relay before i buy new one what can i do and how??
  • massodmassod Member Posts: 10
    I paid for two hours of labor, which I believe it was excessive. I paid $470 for parts and labor to replace the alternator! I WILL NOT buy another TOYOTA.

  • terceltomterceltom Allentown, PSMember Posts: 1,024
    Okay, so in post #35 you stated that your technician told you that replacing your alternator would cost you around $500-$600. Then you went to him to have the work completed anyway. He comes in under his estimate, at $470.00. Now you decide it was too expensive? I guess I would ask if he quoted you more and you were okay with it, and he charged you even less than what he said, why the problem? As I stated in post #36, I felt his quote of $500-$600 was excessive. I also told you it would be around $400.00 on the high end and I did say it would be around two hours labor and that's what he charged. So you had ample information from the technician and myself. Why blame Toyota? All car's alternators will fail eventually if you keep the car long enough. In fact, I'm willing to bet that, that alternator lasted longer than most other cars would have. So the bottom line is, yes you were over charged slightly, but you knew what it would cost before you took your car to get fixed. He cut you a break from what he told you and now your dissappointed, why?
  • jamichalecjamichalec Member Posts: 1
    Have a 2005 corolla. Drove it to school the other day, parked. Came out of class,
    no head lights or power to the fuel pump. No warning lights ever came on. Will start with
    either so we have ignition. Any suggestions?
  • gardengirl51gardengirl51 Member Posts: 4
    Does anyone know what this statement means? I took my 96 Corolla for an oil change yesterday at The Lube Center. I've owned her for 2.5 years, and she is running fine with 153K miles on her :-). However, when I started the car to leave, an engine check indicator light came on and remained lit. I stopped the engine, and the manager plugged something into the electrical system to identify the problem. This message came up on the screen, but he had no idea what it meant. (Note: I could have the letters mixed up, but they were definitely a combination of I, T, and A.) I'll call a Toyota dealer, but does anyone know what this may mean and have any advice for me? All it says in my manual is to see my dealer ASAP when this indicator light appears. I am struggling to survive on unemployment benefits so I hope this is not expensive to fix. Also, have I been damaging my catalytic converter system by allowing my fuel tank to go to empty before filling each week? I read something in the manual about this stressing the car's system. I thought it was good for the car to get rid of all the "old" gas before putting in new.
  • 01corolla01corolla Member Posts: 2

    I drive a 2001 coroola, and both of the headlights and the passenger foglight went out. I've had the car since 2006, and have never had a problem with this before. I replace both headlights (but not the foglight) and this seemed to solve the problem on the driver's side of the car, but the passenger side the headlight is still out, as is the foglight. I checked the fuse for the headlights and replaced the one for the passenger side headlight and still no luck. I am pretty sure it is an electrical problem, but not quite sure what it could be. any suggestions?
  • AspenLeavesAspenLeaves Member Posts: 2
    The problem was the fuel pump. And yes, I do realize that I WAS low on gas however it is actually really reliable and will go a full 12 gallons even with that problem. It wasn't on an incline there. The fuel pump ties into the fuse with this model. Once the fuel pump was replaced no problem with that anymore.

    Now my problem lies in the driver side door, the handle broke off in my hand so I have to open the door from the outside. Plus the driver's window hasn't worked for a long time. We are looking for a door at a junkyard.

    I'd say time for a new car.....
  • fayknamefaykname Member Posts: 2
    I may have a similar problem with my 2001 Corolla. Both my low beam headlights will go out. Not at the same time but one will go out, then a couple weeks later the other will follow.

    The first time this happened I played with the fuses first before buying 2 new bulbs to replace them thinking they had burned out as the fuses were fine. As I was about to replace them I set the screwdriver down on the frame and the vibration triggered the light to come back on. I then tapped around the frame near the other headlight and the same thing happened.

    Before this occurred I had decided the car was an electrical lemon. I also have a problem where the speedometer console lighting on the right first died, later followed by the left. Then after that the heating/radio console lights went out.

    I also have an intermittent dome light. If switched on it will turn off for a bit, then come back on at random times.

    Ohh, and my drivers electrical side door locks are fussy as well. The switch doesn't always lock the doors. I have to lean my self over like an idiot and use the switch on the passenger side half the time I park to get out. (I'm not usually bright enough to remember i can use my key from the outside to lock all 4 doors as well, though even then Ive had problems with that though I fault a poorly cut key which I had ordered or had made as a backup and has since become my primary)

    I don't recall the figure I was quoted to have both the dash lighting and the door locks fixed but at the time it seemed ridiculous to me as the car is over the hill and frankly I don't care enough about it to have the whole cars electrical system replaced, assuming that's what needs to be done. It's just unfortunate that I can't sell the car for a few bucks or give it to anyone in good conscience knowing at night they may freak out and crash if both low beams fail at once or they're traveling at unsafe speeds cuz they can't read the speedometer in the dark, pre-warned or not.

    Anyways, just wanted to share that, interested to see how many other 01's are lemons in the electrical department. The next time I have it in for service I'll have the electrical system looked at and get newly quoted and hopefully remember this thread to share that info here.

    And 01corolla, try my tip in tapping the frame near the headlights, use the grip end of a screwdiver while the lights are turned on. If it works for you it's a nice, cheap (if only temporary) fix.
  • terceltomterceltom Allentown, PSMember Posts: 1,024
    First allow me to tell you I have a 2001 Corolla LE and have not had one electrical issue to date. In fact I have never even had to replace one light bulb yet. So electrical lemon NO, in fact, far from it. Now as to your issues it sounds like you are really getting very dramatic over a few very minor problems. Each sounds like it has it's own same basic remedy. If I had your car here right now I could probably solve almost all of your minor electrical problems in less then one hour.

    The dome switch sounds like it's nothing more then a switching opening up on occasion. I would remove the cover, check that the switch and bulb contacts are all making good contact and probably spray it with a little WD-40 or an electrical contact cleaner spray and repl;ace cover.

    The intermittant headlights are telling you that there is nothing more than looseor non-conductive contacts on the plug. Pull out each headlight plug, spray and push in all the way.

    Door locks are most likely the same problem, remove the inside door panels, check contacts and clean and spray.

    In an older car you have to realize these electrical switches and contacts are subject to many various temperature changes and road vibrations over the years and can oxidize or loosen up very easily. You would have this problem regardless of whatever brand or model you would have.

    Now the dash panel lights are a different story. Depending on which ones are burned out it could be a little labor intensive to replace these small bulbs. But really in a 2001 I would just live with it rather then spend the money to replace them.
  • fayknamefaykname Member Posts: 2
    I didn't mean the Corolla was an electrical lemon, I meant my Corolla was. Dramatic I am not, I mostly just described the problems that lead me to conclude that. I've had a few cars in my time, some with mileage under 300km some with mileage over 300,000km, all in and from a Canadian climate and never have I had the number of minor electrical problems I have had with this one. That's the very dull and undramatic truth. In fact, after I posted I realized I had left out two more glitches, one being my middle brake lamp not functioning, the other being the intermittency of the light illuminating the gears.

    As for the tips and suggestions I appreciate very much the time you have taken to post them.
    - The dome and headlights advice I will put to the test tonight.
    - The door locks I will keep in mind but will probably just retrain myself to use the key to lock the doors from the outside.
    - The dash lights I will probably leave; the last time I had it in I scoffed at the estimate to repair something Toyota really should have made much easier to access / cheaper to fix. (If I recall correctly the windshield I had replaced was overall cheaper then what was needed in labour to replace a light bulb in the speedometer console and compared to each other the light bulb cost seemed absurd)
    - For the brake lamp I will try your same suggestion for the headlights and dome problem.
    - The gear selector and lights on heater/radio console I will likely have to leave.

    Again, thanks for your time.
  • terceltomterceltom Allentown, PSMember Posts: 1,024
    Yea, when you start pulling apart a dashboard the labor can get quite expensive just to fix a lillte light bulb. Unless of course you take the time to do it yourself and remember where all the little screws go when you want to put it all back together. I have an 86 Tercel that has some dash bulbs burned out but I just live with it.
  • nhstevenhsteve Member Posts: 79
    My 06 Corolla has started sounding the seat belt alarm when I start to drive as though the seat belt is not connected. I always wear my belt. There is no one else in the ca and nothing on any of the seats.

    Is there a way to bypass the seat belt warning? I was able to bypass the alarm on my Subaru.
  • dmillerodmillero Member Posts: 1
    My 2001 Corolla's gear gets stuck in the frigid cold weather here in Pittsburgh, PA. I have to warm the car for about 30 mins before the gear can release. Any idea what the prolem might be and how it can be solved?
  • ted52ted52 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Corolla that has been a fine car till now. On the way home today the power, electrical, engine, everything went out for just a second 4 different times. The first three times the engine maintained life, but the fourth time it died. The power came right back and I could restart it. Anyone know what causes all of the power to go out momentarily? Radio, engine, all ectrical.


  • gc99654gc99654 Member Posts: 1
    I purchased a 2009 Corolla in August. I had a remote start installed by a vendor who has installed at least 5 remote starts on my vehicles, no problems. My daughter told me that the trunk began opening every time she used the remote start. It also opens when the locks are activated in any way. The trunk also opens when the vehicle is taken from Park to Drive or Reverse. Toyota dealer said the problem was the remote start. The remote start vendor said they are not connected to the transmission and it was likely the vehicle electrical system. The remote start has been removed and the problem still exists. The ECM (??) unit is making a noise when the lock switches are activated or the car is shifted from Park to Drive or Reverse. Any other reports of this problem or ideas what is up?
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