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Toyota Corolla Electrical Problems

My wife called last week from the Target parking lot and said the car would start but wouldn't stay on. When I got in it, if I gave it gas it would stay on. I drove it around the parking lot and noticed when I turned the A/C on, the parking brake light came on and when I signaled left the wipers would come on. I immediately drove to the nearest repair place, which happend to be a Toyota dealership. The tech said the entire main fuse box had melted and that he smelled something burning. They have had to replace two new computers and still no answer. Anyone ever had this. 2000 Corolla with only 82000 miles.


  • irismgirismg Posts: 345
    Try the alternator/voltage regulator.

    I guess I've been lucky with my '98!
  • i ordered some blue LEDs for my corolla... to change the lights in the instrument cluster and the climate controls from white to blue

    i unplugged the light from behind where the thelittle guys are that have the arrows going to their feet or face

    i realized i didnt have the right LEDs to put in there so i went to plug it back in and the LED blew and i believe it shorted out the spedemoter, gas guage, and temp guage as well because they wont light up now

    please help
  • I've been trying to deal with this problem but have had no luck. I'll describe some problems and solutions I have tried. Please see if you can help me.

    I've been having trouble with the Starter. The symptoms are intermittent. Sometimes the starter will not crank. It'll just "Click". If I turn the ignition enough times it will start. (I have Sears Die Hard Gold Less <2 yrs old)

    One time when I started up the car the starter motor kept cranking with the engine resulting in a noisy clicking sound. When I shut the engine off through the ignition and pulled out the key the starter kept cranking! I had to unplug the battery to get it to turn off.

    Since then I have replaced the starter. It was ok for a while but sometimes it will still only "click" when I turn the ignition and eventually (after many tries) it will catch and crank the engine.

    Today my wife while driving the car complained of a noisy engine and the automatic "lighting" didn't turn on. She had to turn on the parking lights manually.

    Note: I have had the engine swapped with the same engine model 1ZZFE. Old engine was eating oil and then died cause wify didn't check oil. Thank you to ProLong prob eating my seals.

    Sometimes when the gas tank is filled the motor will rev and drop rpm for a little while and then return to normal. (this has appeared since engine swap)

    I know I have a lot of questions but please if you have any solutions to the multiple of questions I have post them.

    Thank you for everything.

  • Park lights in Corolla/Yaris/Allion are veri bright and consume lot of battery power. Are we suppposed not to switch on park lights when parking? or can we switch on park lights when parking?
    is there a way to have an on off switch for separetly for lights in the bumper.?
    pls give ur suggestions
  • The parking lights are automatic. There is a photosensitive sensor dome near your "defrost" windshield. The only way to keep the light from coming on is to pull the emergency brake before you start the engine. There is a switch in the e-brake. If you want to bypass the automatic lighting system you have to prob splice that line and short it. But do your research in the electrical manual...that is only my assumption and is not recommended.
  • My sister drives an 04 Corolla and is having a problem with the heating system. The heater will work while the car is driving, but suddenly switch to cold air when the car is stationary (i.e. while at a traffic light). What could the problem be (electrical issue, blower motor?)?

    Also, for two days the temp. gauge would not report an increase in engine temperature until midway through the day. Any thoughts.
  • gierbogierbo Posts: 1
    I am driving a '92 corolla with over 190K miles. I never have any issues other than regular maintenance until recently. The problem comes and go. I go start up the car fine, drive around and stop. When I come back it would not start. Lights, radio, works fine but it will not do anything. If I wait awhile and try again, voila, the car will start with no problems. I can be driving the car with no problems for days and suddenly, it just would not start. The battery, terminals, starter, alternator all new. Distributor cap, cables, spark plugs in good shape. Checked terminal cables and looks ok. Any ideas???? :mad:
  • no warning just started car and then set heat and tried to start fan no go at all. Checked fuse 31 and also36 both good. Wondering if anyone knows of more fuses to check or if anyone has had this problem and what they have done to correct it. Car is a 2003 toyota corrolla. Thank you in advance if anyhelp out there.
  • poppy10poppy10 Posts: 2
    We have the same problem with our 92. Some time has gone by since your posting. Any news? Has anyone solved the mystery? On ours, I wonder if it has anything to do with the position of the steering wheel or shift lever (maybe the contacts). Or maybe some coil or solenoid just doesn't work when it gets hot? Weird. After a while it starts up fine. Thanks for any help. Poppy10
  • npentznpentz Posts: 1
    Hi, did you all ever figure out your surprise no start problems? I've had two cars that did this, one was down for 6 months because it was totally random when it would die or not start, and they had to have it hooked up to an Ossiloscope with their desk person watching it for half a day to catch it.. Both cases though, it was a bum pick-up coil in the distributor.
    Good luck!
  • I have replaced the battery and terminals, and the starter. Had the Alternator tested and passed, and two weeks after I got it back on the road my fiance wa eating lunch and went to leave to go to work and the car would not start. I got in the car and none of the dash lights or windows would work (total electrical failure). So I got the car ready to jump and when I turned the car ON the radio worked and Door Ajar light lit up, then I turned the key to start it and everything seized (total failure again). I am completely stumped. Checked all the fuses, battery again, and I am lost. After re-checking everything, the Door Ajar light came on again then same thing, everything seized when I tried to start it. Can anyone help, Pleeese!
  • poppy10poppy10 Posts: 2
    Thanks, npentz! We will check it out. I have since sold the car to my nephew, but I will pass this on to him.

    BigShot: Here is a list of the ideas I have come up with, arranged in order of increasing difficulty:

    1. play with the steering wheel for a while, and then it starts right up.

    2. try putting on the brake and moving the gear shift into neutral and cranking it again.

    3. buy or make a remote starter switch

    4. replace the pick-up coil in the distributor.

  • glo3glo3 Posts: 1
    I have a 92 corolla with 65,000 miles, and the same exact problem. It seems to only happen in the summer when it's very hot outside and only sometimes. Three mechanics have diagnosed it as intermittent distributor failure and sugest changing the distributor. So my question is should I do it? with a new distributor for $360 or rebuilt for $200. I hate to put money in the car as it's so old but it is a great city car. Any ideas, comments, suggestions??? Thanks
  • bajarbajar Posts: 1
    I have 2001 Corolla with less than 50,000 miles and it was working properly. Never had any problems since then. One day when I was on the road the car suddenly stopped in the middle of the road and won't start anymore. A technician came in and have checked all the possible causes (fuses, fuel supply, spark plugs, etc) and they are all OK. The engine was cranking when you switch on the ignition it but it won't start (run). Before the problem occurred, my gas was just 1/4. I filled up full tank of gas. I drove 20 miles and then the car suddenly stopped running on the road. The guy told me it might be the bad gas but not sure because I need to bring my car to the shop to check it.
    Is there anybody had an issues like this before?

    Thank you very much in advance for helping me with this matter
  • mnfmnf Spokane WaPosts: 405
    Bad gas or clogged fuel filter sounds it like could be the issue.

    Good Luck

  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,910
    Another possibility is a failed fuel pump, but if the pump was bad it probably would have failed before 50k miles.
  • I have intermittant power windows on my 2000 Corolla. Any tips?

    left front and rear right window will stop working occasionally, It doesn't matter the switch being used
  • My 1997 toyota corolla just started to act funny. When I step on the brakes the headlights, and dashboard lights including radio and clock go out but then come back on when I step off the brake. can anyone give me a suggestion? The car runs fine otherwise.Thanks.
  • I replaced my brake light switch on my girlfriends 94 however it didn't do anything im wondering if at this point and time it'd be a fuse or the wire harness is shot any input? :mad:
  • djw918djw918 Posts: 1
    2000 Corolla. My battery light came on, car drove for a while then died. Will not hold jump start. Is this an alternator problem? Cost of repair? Thanks!
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,022
    Not sure what you mean "will not hold jump start". Anyway, the easiest way to check the alternator is to jump the car/battery as you would to start it. Now remember, if your battery is really old/bad, it will take some time of idling or reving of the jumping car after the jumper cables are attached to actually give your car enough charge to start your car. After it's running remove the jumper cables, then remove one of the attached battery cables from your battery after the car is running. If the car remains running your alternator is fine, if the car stops upon removing one of the battery cables, your alternator is bad. Cost of decent 5 year battery is approx. $70.00 to $80.00, Cost of after market alternator anyware from $150.00 to $200.00 and about $50.00 to install. Genuine Toyota alternator would be more.
  • I love my Toyota however it has died 2-3 times while running in the last two weeks, the first time I thought it was because I was low on gas, but I still had a half gallon. The 2nd time I was on a neighborhood street thank god. Someone looked at it and replaced a fuse. I'll have to look at the diagram and figure out what it controls. Today it died in another bad place in the middle of an intersection and fortunately the guy behind me jumped out and pushed me to a safe place. Then same guy who fixed it before came and helped me and replaced the fuse with a 20 (amp?) fuse. He said there should be no problem. And it drove home, however I have no wish to drive it with an infant or in icy snowy roads and cause an accident because it dies again. However I need to truly fix it, if 15 amp was used before is it really wise to replace it with a 20? Who do I take it to? I've had this thing for 11 years now, never really had a problem except for the driver window, and the solenoid switch. What do I do first? Economically times are hard, paying for costly repairs that result in nothing isn't what I'm looking for.
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,022
    First off if you only had a half gallon of gas in your car you WERE very low on gas. You realize with this small amount of gas left, any slight inclined could have caused your car to stop. Secondly, I'm not sure why a fuse would cause your car to stop. Thirdly, replacing a fuse with a higher amperage fuse is only hiding your electrical problem, not solving it. Suggest finding a technician you could trust so you have no doubts that paying for a repair is going to solve your problems.
  • ezee2ezee2 Posts: 4
    Which fuse control the power window glass of 2004 Corolla?Which fuse control the power window glass of 2004 Corolla?
    The fuse spouse to be Under nee of steering wheel, on fuse box cover one mark refer to 30A P/W fuse iCon, fuse spouse to be there right?

    Wondering no referring fuse there is empty slot. Please help me to find out what control of power window fuse or Rely and where they located.
    By the way I&#146;m asking because all window stop working automatic door are working fine.
  • I have a 91 corolla. there is a couple of problems with it. one the clutch is out witch isnt that big of a deal but it wont turn over with the key. i didnt know if that was because the clutch is out or if it was the starter or something. If you get it rolling and dump the clutch it will start as long as the key is turned on but that is the only way i can get it started. If anyone knows the answer or has a suggestion msg me back. thanks
  • i'm having the same problem now, what did you find out?
  • harbinx1harbinx1 Posts: 1
    My 1998 Toyota Corolla right rear power door lock stopped functioning about 2 years ago. Six weeks ago my left front control button stopped operating both of the right side door locks, but continued operating both left side door locks. Using the key in the right front door locked and unlocked the right front door and the two leaft side doors, but the right front control button does not work. Last week a friend who is a decent mechanic pulled apart the right rear door panel and monkeyed with the apparatus. Then I used the left front control button to lock the doors. They locked, but would not unlock. We tried to locate the main power door lock fuse, but could not find it. Now I have to manually lock and unlock all the doors. Can you help me?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I don't have electrical schematics for your specific vehicle, but normally the way you have to trouble shoot these problems is to start with the switches on the drivers door. The power for door locks and windows goes there first, and then out to the other doors. The problems you find in this area are typically:
    - drivers side switch bad
    - individual doorlock or window regulator bad
    - wiring bad between the drivers side door jamb and drivers door, due to many years of flexing and unflexing every time the drivers door is opened.

    These problems are not technically difficult to identify and fix, just tedious. You'll need a voltmeter/ohmmeter. Start at the drivers door switch, and verify that each switch is working properly with a voltmeter. Then move the voltmeter to the doors, and verify that the same voltage that you had on the drivers switch, has made it thru the wiring to the individual doors. Using the drivers switch, and the meter on the doors, verify each is working properly. Then move to meter out the door switches. Verify that the remote switch is working correctly, and then also providing the voltage to the locking mechanism.
  • The battery in my 03 Corolla seems to be slowly draining, as if I had a light or something on somewhere in the car. Whenever I start the car, it cranks slowly like the battery is really low. I've tried cutting the engine and then restarting after driving it around and it starts back up more quickly, as though the battery has charged some. I've checked everywhere and it doesn't seem like I've left anything on. Also the hydrometer on my battery seems to indicate that the battery is just fine. When I open the doors after leaving it off for a while the dome light is really dim. It's like something is slowly drawing power from the battery when the car is off but I can't figure out what. This is very annoying and I really don't want to take it to a shop or replace the battery until I have a better idea of what's going on. Any insight into this would be greatly appreciated.
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,022
    Very simply put, it sounds like you need a new battery. The alternator is good if the battery is charging. You know batteries don't last forever? If this is the original battery you extended the average life of an OEM battery. Oh, and disregard that hydrometer test, it doesn't mean much.
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