Thanks everyone! I'll probably clay before I Zaino. The only reason to avoid this step is to avoid swirl marks. I've never clayed before and I don't want my first attempt to be on a black color. I've heard experienced people get swirl marks while claying.
Just make sure you keep PLENTY of lubrication between the clay and the surface. I am still trying to get the marks out of my Bimmer where the clay got a little dry. You think you've got them out and then the sun hits at just a little different angle ...
I just replenished my stock of z1, z2, z5, z6, z7, and purchased z10, leather in a bottle.
One bottle of each of z1, z2, z5, z6 has lasted me over 4.5 years on my 2000 Subaru Outback, and still have some left! My Outback will be traded on Friday for a new 2005. I have various amounts left in the z1, z2 and z5 bottles but noticed separation in the components of the polish. Any idea if this stuff is still good, or should I toss and start fresh with the new bottles?
Also, first time I will have leather, so I have not tried the leather in a bottle. Any advice on how much to apply? Same rule as the polish...ie. less is better?
The leather in the OB has a flat sheen to it. Will the z10 change the sheen...ie make it shiny? I hope not...I don't like the shiny look in the interior.
I think the estimated shelf life of Zaino is about 5 years. The separation is not an indicator of "freshness". Older versions of Zaino polishes had a little bit of solvent in them as an emulsifier so the various ingredients would work together. Current versions of Z2 and Z5 do not separate.
Z10 is a very matte looking conditioner so no worries about a high gloss on your leather. And you don't have to be as stingy with the leather care products as you do the paint sealants as they work differently. I like Sal's terry apps with the leather conditioner but most any clean soft app will work fine.
I would like to clean my windshield on my Bimmer and get rid of the crud where the wipers do NOT swipe. I have tried Dawn and Bon Ami with no great change. Anyone have any suggestions? (I have been told that a clay baring will help but am a little gun-shy there.)
There's a few little tricks to get glass *really clean*:
1. Use #0000 steel wool (yep, steel wool) and your fave glass cleaner. The steel wool will remove light surface crud that a towel won't.
2. Claying the glass will also help remove surface crud. If anything, claying is easier to do on glass than paint because glass is usually smoother.
3. Use a liquid glass polish. Zaino Z12 is a good, mild polish but there are a few others on the market (Duragloss is aggressive, Autoglym is about the same as Z12, Diamondite makes a 3-step polishing system). The polishes will dissolve embedded crud that glass cleaners cannot touch.
I just detailed the glass on my truck last week. My steps were:
(a) Clay glass to remove surface contaminents. (b) Polish glass with steel wool and Z12. (c) Seal glass with Aquapel resin-based sealant (kind of a durable version of RainX).
Do this a couple times a year, like before and after winter, and your glass should be easy to maintain year round.
hi! i'm new to the forum and i have a quick question. i just bought a lexus rx330. when i asked the dealership about invisible bra (clear plastic film over the car to protect from paint chips) they recommended a solar shield treatment instead. this is a spray-on product that is refreshed every 6 months. i was wondering if dawn and clay bar process will strip this protection? i'd also welcome any suggestions/advice for zainoing my new baby and my hubby's 10yr old accord. thanks in advance!
also i haven't read anything so far about the use of the zfx yet (altho i'm starting from the beginning of the thread and that could be why). is this flash cure additive recommended? the one that also replaces the use of z1? or is z1 better?
lastly, after looking over the website the line of products is kinda overwhelming for me. can someone advise me as to which products are not worth getting?
Welcome to the club! You'll find that you become a Zainoholic in no time!
When I started, I bought the Z1/Z2 but the ZFX is SO much better! It cuts the drying time so much that by the time I'm done putting the Z/2-ZFX on, it's dry enough to take off. (I also live in Hawaii so it dries faster.) Here's my recommendation for a starter kit. (And I won't use the letter/number since that was and is so confusing.
Even though it's a new car, I clayed my car first. I don't know if Zaino has clay but if not, you can buy it at a car supply store. The clay takes any "debris?" off. (It's not really debris but don't know another word for it.) Then I wash it with the car wash. After the car wash, I use the Z2 and ZFX. Since this is your first application, you can put two to three coats on. Then you can finish with the gloss spray.
On subsequent washes, I just wash my car and dry. I don't always put the gloss on since it seems to rain as soon as I finish drying my car. (The gloss comes off with each rain but the Zaino protection does not.) Every couple of months, I'll put another coat of Z2/ZFX on. That's it!
Your initial application will take you all day. Think of it as a workout. 1. Wash your car with Dawn. That takes any wax off. 2. Clay your car. Keep the clay a bit moist. You can use the gloss spray or I think water. Don't use it if you drop it since it will pick up dirt, etc. 3. Wash the car again with the Zaino car wash. 4. Dry the car. 5. Apply the z/2/Zfx mixture in a thin coat. Remove when dry. Repeat again (and again, if you can) 6. Finish with the gloss. Tired, huh? But it's so worth it because your subsequent washes will be so easy! You really don't have to Dawn or clay again but I think you'll find that you'll want to! :)You just have to wash and gloss.
I'm sure all the veterans on this board will have a lot to add to my instructions so wait until you hear from them. But I wanted to tell you my experience--woman to woman.
Yes, ZFX is definitely worth it. I put 3 coats of z5 on Friday night, and 3 coats of z2 on Sunday moring on my brand new Subaru Outback.
Zaino does offer its brand of clay. One can contains two bars. But you can find clay bars from other major manu of wax products (eg. Mothers). To clay the car surface, you need a lubricant. I use about 1 cap of Zaino car wash to one average size spray bottle of water.
You also need some microfiber or 100% cotton terry towels.
Some mods to fickle's instructions:
Note: If possible, use a garage, or perform this work on a day where there is no dust flying in the air, otherwise, you risk your clay or applicator acting like a fine grit sandpaper on your paint...a definite no-no.
1. Wash your car with Dawn. The Dawn removes any wax or other chemicals that might prevent the Zaino from bonding. 2. Dry vehicle (doesn't have to be perfectly dry) 3. Clay your car. Lubricate the surface with solution of choice and rub the paint with the clay. If you drop the clay on the ground, toss it. If clay leaves marks, it's because it was too dry. Lubricate area again, and clay...marks will come right off. Don't worry spots or streaks from lubricant...car needs to be washed again anyway. 3. Wash the car again with the Zaino car wash. 4. Dry the car.
Now time for the Zaino. Remember that less is better here. You don't apply generous amounts like one would with regular wax. I barely see the stuff on the paint after applying.
5. Apply the Z1 using a 100% cotton terry applicator pad, and let it haze. 6. Add approx 4 or 5 drops of zfx mixture to 1 ounce of your choice of Z2 or Z5 (assuming you have a clear coat, which you likely do) and mix for about 1-2 minutes. On a new car, I recommend using z5 first to fill/remove/hide fine scratches, then toping with z2. You may want to alternate your application of z5 and z2 with future applications. 7. Apply the z/Zfx mixture in a thin coat using 100% cotton applictor pad (prep the pad by spritzing some z6 onto it...this reduces the amt of mixture absorbed by the pad). Don't apply in circular pattern. Front to back for horizontal surfaces. Top to bottom for vertical surfaces. When you can wipe it off with your finger and it does not smudge...its dry. Remove with microfiber or cotton towels. Can use circular motions to remove if you like. 8. Spritz small amounts of Z6 onto paint and gently rub and spread using a soft 100% cotton towel or microfiber. One section at a time. I use one small section of the sleeve of old 100% cotton flannel pijamas. The more cloth, the more absorbtion of Z6 and the more product you end up using. If necessary, you can hand buff afterwards. 9. Repeat with another application of z/zfx mixture etc. I can usually get 3 coats with just over 1/2 ounce of z/zfx mixture on an established z surface. For first time application to an "unZainoed" surface, you may wish to mix an ounce. 6. Finish with the gloss (z6 spray). This is optional. Personally, I do not see a difference after 3 coats of z2. I use the z6 again before the next application of z2 or z5 or ocassionally after a wash.
Re-claying is optional, but I re-clay my vehicle every spring. After a year, contaminants can still build up on the surface and I find it helps keep the finish silky smooth.
To protect my 350Z I had an invisible bra placed on the nose, fender, etc. Can Zaino be used on this material (I believe its 3M). It was installed by autobahn.
1. I do a quick dry just to get most of the water off. Otherwise you may find the water on the car dilutes the lubricant soln further. Worse, beads of water may create water spots that are a bit more diff to take off. If you z2 over them, then you'll have "permanent" water spots unless you remove the z2, remove the waterspots, and start all over. The z1 does pretty good job of taking them out though. Give it a go if you like, it may work for you.
2. Correct. But I still use z1 before my first applic of z on my car, as I did with my new Outback. I will not use it again now unless necessary. After the 1st applic of z1, it will be only z5 or z2 + zfx.
Your choice of z5 or z2 first. I use z5 to fill and hide any fine surface scratches, then top with z2 in my next application. After that, I use mostly z2 with occassional applic of z5 if I develop new fine scratches (all this done with zfx to speed curing time).
how many of which kinds of towels should i buy if i plan to wash my rx330 suv? please keep in mind i'm a small girl so large bath sheets soaked with water would be too heavy for me to manage. thanks!
Honestly, I have been using an imitation chamois (yes I know....not the greatest) to dry my vehicle for several years, and use the towels for Zaino removal. However, I purchased 2 microfiber towels for my new vehicle, but only used them for Zaino removal. They seem to be very absorbent, so will give them a go for drying the car as well.
I suggest minimum of two. One to get most of the water off (will have to wring it out while drying so keep this in mind when sizing), and the 2nd for the final wipe to get it completely dry. You may want to get 2 additional to have as back-up while two are in the wash. Alternatively, you could go for a California water blade or equivalent product....it's a squeegie like product made of very soft silicone. Squeegie water off your car then use a small towel for touch ups. I tried it and found it just didn't cut it for my vehicle...too many ridges etc. Ended up having to dry practically the whole vehicle anyway.
If you go cotton towels, get 100% USA made. eg Cannon (got mine at Walmart - they are approx 18" x 40"..guessing from memory here). Alternatively, get some microfiber towels from local auto supply store, or if you search this thread, I believe some have posted urls to on-line distributors.
It seems that no one addressed your "solarshield" issue.
Virtually ALL the aftersale dealer added paint and interior items are USELESS and only designed to get HUGE profit margins for the dealer. This applies to ALL the paint treatments (Lifetime wax? C'Mon!) interior treatments (Scotchguard it yourself for 1/20th the cost) and undercoating (CAUSES more rust than it stops). The basic concepts behind these items are : 1. They make HUGE profits on them, and 2. They bet that you will sell the car or lose the paperwork before you try to make good on the warranty.
Regarding Solarshield - There is NO WAY that some SPRAY ON treatment can stop rocks, etc. like a plastic clear bra. Also, it seems that it doesn't last any longer than Zaino. My advice - DON'T do it. If you did, the clay will surely strip it off so that you don't have to worry about it.
After you have prepped and Z'd your paint, you can have the clear bra applied. Then, you can Z on top of it - it will be nearly as shiny as your paint and almost invisible.
We have found that the Zaino Polymer is so hard that it is nearly like a clear bra - many small abrasions and other marks just come right off.
thanks. i was just about to give up and go hound my dealership to see if the zaino treatment would harm it. as for getting the treatment, it was at my hubby's suggestion =P he thought from the testimonials that it would be better than the invis bra 'cause it covered the whole car. o well, at least snow (my rx) came back all clean and lotioned. and to be fair to the dealership, the paperwork is in the computer so they're not counting on me losing the paperwork. selling the car is another story tho =P
p.s. i see that you're also in the area. any recommendations for a good invis bra place?
One more thought- Once you start Zainoing the car, PLEASE don't go back for any more Solarshield treatments. It will certainly not help, and it will not be as clear or as shiny as the Zaino.
Do an on line search for StonGard. (If you search for invisible bra you have to sort out the Frederick's of Hollywood stuff ... also go to 3M - they make the material) Then see if they have a shop in your area. I am in Oregon and can find NO ONE to do a bra. Seattle area and L.A. seem to be the closest to Portland. A full front seems to run about $500.
I received a quote from StonGard in the Seattle area today - $753 for the "full" paint kit (bumpers, fenders, hood, mirrors, rear bumper top, and a strip on each door) and $75 to cover the headlights. They claim a better cover than 3M - no seams to collect junk and wax residue. Best to see it explained on their site.
how much dawn to how much water for the wash down before claying? finally got my z-stuff. planning to wash it either sun or mon. hope no more misc. questions pop into my head as my hubby and i are standing in the driveway with our buckets, z, and 100% cotton/made in usa towels. (prays that her hubby doesn't think she's gone nuts.)
can't remember where now... i started reading page 1 of this thread and i'm now on 108... but i seem to remember reading somewhere that some users find it easier to dilute the Z6 when applying it as a detail between coats? if this is the case, how much z6 to how much water?
i know i should spray some z6 on the applicator before drawing a thin x with the z5 ... question is, when i need to apply more z5 to the applicator should i spray more z6 on first? or is that a one time step at the beginning?
K, put this stuff on my new leather on Tues evening. I was fairly generous. On Sat, we got some wicked rain that hit my drivers seat when I opened the door to get in. This evening, noticed I had "darker" spots where the where I believe there were drops of rain.
1. Does the leather in a bottle not repel water to some degree?
I received my Zaino last Thursday and did the complete treatment to both of my vehicles over the weekend. I'd like to post my experiences and errors and what I think of the product to help and enhance other's and new Zaino users application, and to make everyone feel more comfortable with it. At the end, I will sum up what I would do differently the next time.
Meguiar's "Quick Clay" ClayBar and Lubricant BLUE Dawn Dishwashing Soap (original)
2 16x24 100% Cotton, made in usa Cannon Towels 1 LARGE Bath Size " " " 1 Viking Brand Microfiber "Polishing" Cloth 1 Viking Brand Cotton Chenille Wash Mitt A Tire Scrub Brush 2 Large Buckets
I started from scratch with zero products. Followed the Zaino's website to a tee.
1. Vehicle is outside. Thoroughly hose down entire vehicle with pressurized hose nozzle on. Loosens dirt and some bugs.
2. Remove any bugs and/or roadkill with an appropriate bug cleaner and sponge/cloth. Do NOT use any sort of coarse bristle brush.
3. Fill one bucket with water, about 1/2 full, and liberally squirt your original dawn dishwashing soap into that bucket. Fill second bucket with water, about 3/5 full. This will be for rinsing.
4. Rinse vehicle again and dip wash mitt (chenille, microfiber, lambswool, etc.) into dawn wash. Starting on the roof, wash vehicle, keeping sud action to a maximum, and rinse off with hose. Rinse mitt in rinse bucket, place back in dawn bucket, and work on trunk, hood, side panels, and bottom panels. Save front bumper area for last (most dirt resides in that area). Rinse ENTIRE vehicle over and over again in between washing each panel to avoid water spotting.
5. When completely finished, take off nozzle and and let water freely run out of hose with no pressure added. Hold end of hose 1-2 inches away from the roof and watch as water sheets off, leaving very little spots. Continue all the way down the vehicle.
6. Use a towel to dry vehicle. It could be chamois, cotton, but I recommend microfiber (see bottom of post).
7. Now it's time to clay. Remove your clay bar from it's package and, if your clay bar is of medium or large size, rip it in half. Put the other half away in the plastic so it doesn't dry out, and mold the half your holding into a ball. Flatten it into a pancake about 1/2 or less thick and at least a 2 and a 1/2 inch diameter. Use clay lubricant or spray bottle full of soap/water mixture to generously spritz roof. On top panels, slide the bar across 1-1 1/2 foot sections from front to back. If bar doesn't move, definitely spray more lube. Continue to clay on all paint surfaces. On side panels, use up and down motions with bar. It's important in between doing the different panels to buff off what you just did with a towel to remove the clay/lube.
8. Now that you're done with clay, it's smart to wash with Z-7 Wash to remove any residue still left behind, go over dirty spots once again, and get your paint "primed" for the rest of your Zaino products. Follow the same steps as the Dawn, except for the amount, which is labelled as 1-2 capfuls a gallon. From my experiences, you'll use almost exactly a gallon on a midsize car (based on my Acura TL), so I slosh in 2 capfuls. Extra suds are produced with Z-7 and it smells like blueberries. Also remember to clean your mitt thoroughly from your last dawn wash. Fill your rinse water with a clean batch, also.
9. The ZFX vial is your best friend. The car's washed and ready, so pull it back in the garage (a nice shady spot), but make sure you have good light, and if you don't, find a shady spot of your driveway if possible. Take the ZFX vial out of it's holding bottle, take a 2 ounce bottle included with your ZFX and take your Z-2 Bottle, and squirt the 2 ounce bottle about ¼ full of the actual Z-2. To that polish, add about 2 drops of ZFX. The reason I recommend ¼ full of polish is because you hardly use ANY polish per coat. Coats should be ultra-thin, for easy removal. However, if you desire 2 or more coats, plan accordingly and, for 2 coats, fill the little bottle ½ full of polish, and add 4 drops of ZFX. Shake for 90 seconds, set aside for 5 minutes, then shake for another 15 seconds.
10. The actual application of Zaino polish. Spray your applicator pad (included w/ Zaino) with Z-6, and squirt an “x” shape across the pad. On roof and top panels, go from front to back, just like every other application used with this process (washing, claying), and on side panels, do up and down motions. You might not be able to see the coats, but with certain lighting conditions, you might be able to see a haze. One “x” squirt covers a front door and the front quarter panel. If you see a thick, whitish haze, you have applied to much, and it will take a long time to dry, so go over that area again with the applicator, removing excess and using it elsewhere.
11. Let the polish sit on the vehicle for at LEAST 15 minutes in average weather (70 degrees), less if it’s really hot and dry out. Buff off, using the recommended motions, using a fresh, clean towel (bath size), until all haze is gone and paint is ultra-smooth. Follow up coat with a spray down of Z-6. Spray a hood twice, then use another CLEAN towel to immediately spread around and buff off.
12. Repeat steps 10 and 11 for second, third, and all succeeding coats. (no more than 3 a day (24 hour period))
13. Great! You’re all finished. From now on, all’s you have to do is wash with Z-7, and spray some Z-6 if desired, afterward. No more claying or polishing or dawn. However, it is recommended to put another coat or two on every 4-6 months, at least, to maintain the super-shine and finish.
My thoughts: I wish I would’ve gotten more Microfiber. The cotton towels I used linted and made a big mess, and microfiber is lint free. I also couldn’t believe what little polish is needed for a coat! Extremely small amounts to get an even medium thick haze!
Z10 Leather in a Bottle:
I also decided to give this a shot, and boy did it pay off. Squeezing an amount into my hands, I smeared it around on my palms, then directly applied it to the leather surface, rubbing it in until no excess was left on the surface. That’s it! It smells amazing, just like a new car, and no buffing is necessary. NOTE: If there are smears still within 24 hours of the application, go over the problem areas thoroughly with a MICROFIBER towel, and only microfiber, because of it’s great absorbing qualities. You will be amazed.
i also z'd my hubby's car today (with his help of course). only a couple of things i'd like to add.
1. prepare to be hungry and sore afterwards (esp. in the lower back. is this a sign i'm getting old??). this can be remedied by a large dinner followed by a catnap.
2. maybe 'cause i'm a small girl and a large bath towel would have been too large for me but i prefered to buff off my z5/2 with hand/hair towels. i folded the edges in and folded until it was the size of a face towel. then i just turned to a clean side whenever needed.
new towels always produce more lint. i recommend washing your cotton towels at least twice before using. mine only linted a little and i either blew it off or lightly dusted with one of my microfiber towels.
i also liked the window cleaner. it buffed off easily and didn't smear like it did for some others in this thread.
i wasn't impressed with Z10 leather in a bottle but that maybe because my hubby's leather is already dry and hard (it's 10yrs old).
Z16 for tires was gave the tires a nice gloss. question tho, do you apply it to the whole tire or just the sides? my hubby told me gloss was just for looks but since the bottle said it prevented drying and cracking i was confused.
planning to do snow (my new suv) on wed having done the practice run first on hubby's car. just one question, do i use the window polish on the inside of my windshield too? if so, what do you do about all that residue that you buff off?
Good - Your black car will garner the greatest benefit from Zaino. It can look like black glass when you are done.
Bad - Unless it is fresh from the factory, it surely already has some swirl marks and spider webbing.
Look at a reflection of the sun in your paint - do you see all the tiny scratches and swirls? There should be NOTHING - like looking at a reflection in a pond. Those lines are caused by improper care and not using 100% cotton towels for washing and drying.
If you really want the ultimate finish, you will use a professional swirl mark remover or glaze with an orbital buffer to get rid of all the swirls and spiderwebbing. THEN you will have an un-believeable shine that will turn heads a block away.
With careful washing in the future (NO CAR WASHES) and regular Z treatments, it can always look this good.
I would wash the second time using the Z-7. The Z-7 makes the water sheet off the car much, much more easily.
If you apply Z-2, yes, you should use ZFX (unless you're planning to apply Z-1 first). I also put Z-6 on after the wash, but before the first application of ZFX/Z-5 or Z-2.
Yep, you should moisten the applicator with Z-6 before putting the polish on...
The window polish/cleaner is somewhat abrasive. I wouldn't use it on a new vehicle, and I certainly wouldn't use it on new interior windows. Strongly suggest Sprayway glass cleaner - we don't have Costco's in Wisconsin, so I have my sister in Denver bring me a 4-pack when she comes out...
Most Ace Hardware stores that I have been in carry Sprayway glass cleaner and cheaper than most other places too. The clerks don't even know what it is, so you have to look for it yourself. If not, Stoners Invisible Glass is also pretty good and comparable to Sprayway, but a little more expensive. Pep Boys carry that but not always.
about z-window cleaner, i know it has an abrasive and is not for every day use but i thought i read somewhere previously that it was recommended on new car interior to get read of chemical haze or something like that.
My truck has been washed only 3 times....2 times at the dealership and once last week after a long trip....followed the wash tips and guidelines on this forum.
After the wash it does look like a mirror...there are no swirls/scratches like I had on my old honda.
However when I see it at night in street light, at a particular angle, it seems like it has perfect large (12 inches diameter) swirls all over....uniformly all over.....even going behind the license plate bracket. The swirls seems just too perfect...even for a machine.
Have any of you experienced/seen this??
Also, does anyone know what it might cost for a professional polish job to remove swirls for a brand new car??
This is classic "spiderwebbing" caused by the washing and drying with towels with Polyester in them, dirty washwater, etc. The more such washing is done, the more you will see them.
Perfect circles...on a brand new car? Just washed thrice? Couldn't there be any other explanation? I spoke to the guys at BMW (where the car was washed the other two times)...they said their car wash is state of the art and is self cleaning, etc., etc.
I know that BMW has to maintain a high standard facility...so I give them the benefit of the doubt. The service person said that it could just be the way that the paint was laid...just his opinion. But he was asked me get it in to make sure that they were spider-webs and not just an optical illusion.
I'm going to Z5 it this weekend and hope it goes away.
Just one more thing...I'm really anal, my senses are hyper-sensitive.....I am probably seeing a little more than I'm supposed to.
Speak again to the BMW service manager. I have a standing order on my work that my 325i is to be washed only by hand with mitts and dried with micro fibre. They honor this request with no grumble - at least in my presence. They know by looking at the car that I am more than slightly anal about keeping it looking better than new.
well like i said, i did the whole ritual on snow today. most of her didn't really need the claying but there were a few stubborn dirt specks and the door trim is now looking much cleaner. however, i almost regret doing it 'cause now i know exactly how many paint chips i have!! considering my baby's not even into her 1 month yet... i knew i should have gone for the invisible bra instead of listening to the hubby!! o well, live and learn. i was able to z2 snow (rx330) two times with a little less than 2oz. does that sound about right? lastly, i'm still waiting to be answered about exactly which part of the tires i'm supposed to rub the tire dressing on. ran out of energy for snow's interior. probably will do that while hubby's out at school tomorrow. with just 2 coats of z2 and the z6 rub down, i'm pretty sure snow's already looking better than when i took her off the lot. when my arms recover enough to hold the wait of a camera maybe i'll take some pics. meantime, can someone teach me how to post them? thanks! o btw, new towels washed once and rinsed twice more eliminated the lint problem for any other new zainoites having that problem (for a total count of 2 washing and 4 rinses) o and lastly, like so many others i found my zaino experience more enjoyable with the help of an cali waterblade
p.s. at the beginning of the day, hubby said i was fanatical and not anal. by the end of the day, he agreed that i was anal =P i'm already wondering if i can talk him into doing it again next wed... when's the next za meeting?
Babysnow, you only dress the portion of the tyre that is exposed to the sunlight. I have only been able to send pics by having those wanting them make their email address public for 24 hours and using my regular email account. I have seen attempts on other threads of postings but all that comes up is the little icon that says there is a picture. You can still go the invisible bra route just use a toothpick and touch up paint. Let it cure and then z before having the film installed.
Wha! 2 ounces for 2 coats? I would suggest that you are applying way too much product. I used less than 1 ounce for 3 coats of z5 and less than that for another 3 coats of z2 on my brand new Subaru Outback Wagon. Now that I have 6 coats, I should be able to get 3 coats (including wheels) with just a hair over 1/2 ounce, which is what I would use on my old Subaru Wagon.
As I have stated before, less is better. I barely notice the Z on the surface when I apply. Putting anymore on is just creating grief for yourself...ie. a great deal more "elbow grease" to remove.
Recently I was contemplating the invisible bra for my X3. 2 service managers and 1 service tech told me it was a bad idea. Said that the plastic/vinyl perforates with rock damage, moisture accumulates and you have to pull it out after a few perforations. Why waste the $200 to get it. I then looked at this hard vinyl cover that covers just the first 6-8 inches of the leading edge....it seemed like a better option, but I passed on it as it needs to be secured to the hood with clamps....just meant that I'd have it for life. Also, it would look OK on my Jet Black truck...but would stand out any other color.
The other 'visible' kind of Bra has water/moisture issues similar to the invisible one.
I bought Zaino for my Jet Black X3, but like babysnow decided to try it out first on my wife's 2003 Gold Honda Accord ;o)
I had an especially difficult time cleaning some sap spots, but I removed each and every one, with a microfiber cloth, as I wanted a perfect canvas for Zaino.
I went through: 1. Dawn 2. Clean Sap 3. Dawn (Needed to get the sap out) 4. Clay 5. Z7 - Wash 6. Z5+ZFX 7. Z6 8. Z2+ZFX 9. Z6 (TBD - To be done) 10 Z2+ZFX (TBD - To be done) 11. Z6 (TBD - To be done)
I'm very happy with the results, but more so because the effort to get a shine (after the initial pain!!) is relatively less. As for the quality of the shine, I was happy but not elated. In all fairness, I had kept my expectations low - with a Metallic Gold Car!! It looked shiny clean, before I started out.
I think tmart posted previously that the difference between Zaino and commercial waxes for Gold or metallic cars are subtle...hope I am shocked in amazement when I do my Black truck next week.
Overall, I would recommend this system to anyone. Please don't get put off with all the abbreviations and seemingly long process. Claying is not as bad and lengthy as it sounds. I had been using Meguiar's NXT prior to Zaino. NXT is really, really good, very easy to put and take off - but still not as good as Zaino. And the value is pretty amazing. I used a half-ounce of Zaino polish for a single coat.....I think my polish will last 2-3 years between 2 cars.
I will evaluate in the morning whether I should do the TBD items. I might take tmart's advice and stop..I did not see a major difference between the first and second coats....but again, winter is around the corner...might just do it to be safe.
Thank you all for your wonderful, helpful advice!!
any advice on cleaning these or where can i get new ones. i cleaned the z5 out of it fine when we did my hubby's car but unfortunately the z2 proved more stubborn. despite my efforts, some residue remain and i think i'll need to toss out the two i used. any advice on how to keep my other two clean or where i can buy new ones would be greatly appreciated.
I have found it pretty easy to clean the Z-2/ZFX combo out of the mixing bottles. First, I try to rinse them out within 2-3 hours of mixing (i.e. mix, apply and remove all coats of Z, then rinse). Second, I use COLD water, not hot - just like trying to get stains out of clothing, hot will cause bonding, cold doesn't. I rinse repeatedly until I'm pretty certain most of the stuff is out, and then I let it soak for a couple of hours and rinse again.
I've had very good luck with Z-2/ZFX this way. The most recent time I used Z-5/ZFX, however, the mixture wouldn't rinse out at all. Oh well, my wife bought some replacement bottles for me at Michael's, so I should be fine. Of course, she has ulterior motives - wants me to Z her new Envoy...
You know, I used to think that Zaino worked best only on darker colors (my black Aurora, my sister's green Trailblazer, and my Cosmos Purple GTO). But, I also did my wife's Grand Prix GTP, and noted, when we went to sell it, how amazing the car really did look after three years - almost like new. We ended up trading it in on her new Envoy, and got well above what we should have for a three-year-old car, primarily because of how great/almost like new the car looked (got a bunch of positive comments from the two different used-car appraisers we dealt with, at a couple of different dealerships).
Comments
Thanks!
One bottle of each of z1, z2, z5, z6 has lasted me over 4.5 years on my 2000 Subaru Outback, and still have some left! My Outback will be traded on Friday for a new 2005. I have various amounts left in the z1, z2 and z5 bottles but noticed separation in the components of the polish. Any idea if this stuff is still good, or should I toss and start fresh with the new bottles?
Also, first time I will have leather, so I have not tried the leather in a bottle. Any advice on how much to apply? Same rule as the polish...ie. less is better?
The leather in the OB has a flat sheen to it. Will the z10 change the sheen...ie make it shiny? I hope not...I don't like the shiny look in the interior.
Cheers.
Z10 is a very matte looking conditioner so no worries about a high gloss on your leather. And you don't have to be as stingy with the leather care products as you do the paint sealants as they work differently. I like Sal's terry apps with the leather conditioner but most any clean soft app will work fine.
cheers.
1. Use #0000 steel wool (yep, steel wool) and your fave glass cleaner. The steel wool will remove light surface crud that a towel won't.
2. Claying the glass will also help remove surface crud. If anything, claying is easier to do on glass than paint because glass is usually smoother.
3. Use a liquid glass polish. Zaino Z12 is a good, mild polish but there are a few others on the market (Duragloss is aggressive, Autoglym is about the same as Z12, Diamondite makes a 3-step polishing system). The polishes will dissolve embedded crud that glass cleaners cannot touch.
I just detailed the glass on my truck last week. My steps were:
(a) Clay glass to remove surface contaminents.
(b) Polish glass with steel wool and Z12.
(c) Seal glass with Aquapel resin-based sealant (kind of a durable version of RainX).
Do this a couple times a year, like before and after winter, and your glass should be easy to maintain year round.
also i haven't read anything so far about the use of the zfx yet (altho i'm starting from the beginning of the thread and that could be why). is this flash cure additive recommended? the one that also replaces the use of z1? or is z1 better?
lastly, after looking over the website the line of products is kinda overwhelming for me. can someone advise me as to which products are not worth getting?
When I started, I bought the Z1/Z2 but the ZFX is SO much better! It cuts the drying time so much that by the time I'm done putting the Z/2-ZFX on, it's dry enough to take off. (I also live in Hawaii so it dries faster.) Here's my recommendation for a starter kit. (And I won't use the letter/number since that was and is so confusing.
Even though it's a new car, I clayed my car first. I don't know if Zaino has clay but if not, you can buy it at a car supply store. The clay takes any "debris?" off. (It's not really debris but don't know another word for it.) Then I wash it with the car wash. After the car wash, I use the Z2 and ZFX. Since this is your first application, you can put two to three coats on. Then you can finish with the gloss spray.
On subsequent washes, I just wash my car and dry. I don't always put the gloss on since it seems to rain as soon as I finish drying my car. (The gloss comes off with each rain but the Zaino protection does not.) Every couple of months, I'll put another coat of Z2/ZFX on. That's it!
Your initial application will take you all day. Think of it as a workout.
1. Wash your car with Dawn. That takes any wax off.
2. Clay your car. Keep the clay a bit moist. You can use the gloss spray or I think water. Don't use it if you drop it since it will pick up dirt, etc.
3. Wash the car again with the Zaino car wash.
4. Dry the car.
5. Apply the z/2/Zfx mixture in a thin coat. Remove when dry. Repeat again (and again, if you can)
6. Finish with the gloss.
Tired, huh? But it's so worth it because your subsequent washes will be so easy! You really don't have to Dawn or clay again but I think you'll find that you'll want to! :)You just have to wash and gloss.
I'm sure all the veterans on this board will have a lot to add to my instructions so wait until you hear from them. But I wanted to tell you my experience--woman to woman.
Linda
Zaino does offer its brand of clay. One can contains two bars. But you can find clay bars from other major manu of wax products (eg. Mothers). To clay the car surface, you need a lubricant. I use about 1 cap of Zaino car wash to one average size spray bottle of water.
You also need some microfiber or 100% cotton terry towels.
Some mods to fickle's instructions:
Note: If possible, use a garage, or perform this work on a day where there is no dust flying in the air, otherwise, you risk your clay or applicator acting like a fine grit sandpaper on your paint...a definite no-no.
1. Wash your car with Dawn. The Dawn removes any wax or other chemicals that might prevent the Zaino from bonding.
2. Dry vehicle (doesn't have to be perfectly dry)
3. Clay your car. Lubricate the surface with solution of choice and rub the paint with the clay. If you drop the clay on the ground, toss it. If clay leaves marks, it's because it was too dry. Lubricate area again, and clay...marks will come right off. Don't worry spots or streaks from lubricant...car needs to be washed again anyway.
3. Wash the car again with the Zaino car wash.
4. Dry the car.
Now time for the Zaino. Remember that less is better here. You don't apply generous amounts like one would with regular wax. I barely see the stuff on the paint after applying.
5. Apply the Z1 using a 100% cotton terry applicator pad, and let it haze.
6. Add approx 4 or 5 drops of zfx mixture to 1 ounce of your choice of Z2 or Z5 (assuming you have a clear coat, which you likely do) and mix for about 1-2 minutes. On a new car, I recommend using z5 first to fill/remove/hide fine scratches, then toping with z2. You may want to alternate your application of z5 and z2 with future applications.
7. Apply the z/Zfx mixture in a thin coat using 100% cotton applictor pad (prep the pad by spritzing some z6 onto it...this reduces the amt of mixture absorbed by the pad). Don't apply in circular pattern. Front to back for horizontal surfaces. Top to bottom for vertical surfaces. When you can wipe it off with your finger and it does not smudge...its dry. Remove with microfiber or cotton towels. Can use circular motions to remove if you like.
8. Spritz small amounts of Z6 onto paint and gently rub and spread using a soft 100% cotton towel or microfiber. One section at a time. I use one small section of the sleeve of old 100% cotton flannel pijamas. The more cloth, the more absorbtion of Z6 and the more product you end up using. If necessary, you can hand buff afterwards.
9. Repeat with another application of z/zfx mixture etc. I can usually get 3 coats with just over 1/2 ounce of z/zfx mixture on an established z surface. For first time application to an "unZainoed" surface, you may wish to mix an ounce.
6. Finish with the gloss (z6 spray). This is optional. Personally, I do not see a difference after 3 coats of z2. I use the z6 again before the next application of z2 or z5 or ocassionally after a wash.
Re-claying is optional, but I re-clay my vehicle every spring. After a year, contaminants can still build up on the surface and I find it helps keep the finish silky smooth.
Hope this helps.
1. do i really need to dry the car after the 1st dawn wash since it's just gonna get wet again from the clay lube?
2. i thought zfx replaced z1 completely? so the first application of z should be zfx+z5?
2. Correct. But I still use z1 before my first applic of z on my car, as I did with my new Outback. I will not use it again now unless necessary. After the 1st applic of z1, it will be only z5 or z2 + zfx.
Your choice of z5 or z2 first. I use z5 to fill and hide any fine surface scratches, then top with z2 in my next application. After that, I use mostly z2 with occassional applic of z5 if I develop new fine scratches (all this done with zfx to speed curing time).
I suggest minimum of two. One to get most of the water off (will have to wring it out while drying so keep this in mind when sizing), and the 2nd for the final wipe to get it completely dry. You may want to get 2 additional to have as back-up while two are in the wash. Alternatively, you could go for a California water blade or equivalent product....it's a squeegie like product made of very soft silicone. Squeegie water off your car then use a small towel for touch ups. I tried it and found it just didn't cut it for my vehicle...too many ridges etc. Ended up having to dry practically the whole vehicle anyway.
If you go cotton towels, get 100% USA made. eg Cannon (got mine at Walmart - they are approx 18" x 40"..guessing from memory here). Alternatively, get some microfiber towels from local auto supply store, or if you search this thread, I believe some have posted urls to on-line distributors.
Virtually ALL the aftersale dealer added paint and interior items are USELESS and only designed to get HUGE profit margins for the dealer. This applies to ALL the paint treatments (Lifetime wax? C'Mon!) interior treatments (Scotchguard it yourself for 1/20th the cost) and undercoating (CAUSES more rust than it stops). The basic concepts behind these items are : 1. They make HUGE profits on them, and 2. They bet that you will sell the car or lose the paperwork before you try to make good on the warranty.
Regarding Solarshield - There is NO WAY that some SPRAY ON treatment can stop rocks, etc. like a plastic clear bra. Also, it seems that it doesn't last any longer than Zaino. My advice - DON'T do it. If you did, the clay will surely strip it off so that you don't have to worry about it.
After you have prepped and Z'd your paint, you can have the clear bra applied. Then, you can Z on top of it - it will be nearly as shiny as your paint and almost invisible.
We have found that the Zaino Polymer is so hard that it is nearly like a clear bra - many small abrasions and other marks just come right off.
p.s. i see that you're also in the area. any recommendations for a good invis bra place?
Good Luck!
(prays that her hubby doesn't think she's gone nuts.)
Z6 - I've never diluted. Just spritz and wipe, spritz and wipe, spritz and wipe. I Z6 my Odyssey in about 5 mintues.
I only apply Z-6 to the Z2/Z5 applicator at the beginning. It's kind of like a primer so the Z2/Z5 doesn't soak in.
1. Does the leather in a bottle not repel water to some degree?
2. How often do I need to re-apply?
thx.
I received my Zaino last Thursday and did the complete treatment to both of my vehicles over the weekend. I'd like to post my experiences and errors and what I think of the product to help and enhance other's and new Zaino users application, and to make everyone feel more comfortable with it. At the end, I will sum up what I would do differently the next time.
Products ordered:
ZFX Accelerator
Z-2 Polish for ClearCoats
Z-7 Formulated CarWash
Z-6 Gloss Enhancing Spray
Z-10 Leather Conditioner
(applicator included)
Meguiar's "Quick Clay" ClayBar and Lubricant
BLUE Dawn Dishwashing Soap (original)
2 16x24 100% Cotton, made in usa Cannon Towels
1 LARGE Bath Size " " "
1 Viking Brand Microfiber "Polishing" Cloth
1 Viking Brand Cotton Chenille Wash Mitt
A Tire Scrub Brush
2 Large Buckets
I started from scratch with zero products. Followed the Zaino's website to a tee.
1. Vehicle is outside. Thoroughly hose down entire
vehicle with pressurized hose nozzle on.
Loosens dirt and some bugs.
2. Remove any bugs and/or roadkill with an
appropriate bug cleaner and sponge/cloth. Do
NOT use any sort of coarse bristle brush.
3. Fill one bucket with water, about 1/2 full, and liberally squirt your original dawn dishwashing soap into that bucket. Fill second bucket with water, about 3/5 full. This will be for rinsing.
4. Rinse vehicle again and dip wash mitt (chenille, microfiber, lambswool, etc.) into dawn wash. Starting on the roof, wash vehicle, keeping sud action to a maximum, and rinse off with hose. Rinse mitt in rinse bucket, place back in dawn bucket, and work on trunk, hood, side panels, and bottom panels. Save front bumper area for last (most dirt resides in that area). Rinse ENTIRE vehicle over and over again in between washing each panel to avoid water spotting.
5. When completely finished, take off nozzle and and let water freely run out of hose with no pressure added. Hold end of hose 1-2 inches away from the roof and watch as water sheets off, leaving very little spots. Continue all the way down the vehicle.
6. Use a towel to dry vehicle. It could be chamois, cotton, but I recommend microfiber (see bottom of post).
7. Now it's time to clay. Remove your clay bar from it's package and, if your clay bar is of medium or large size, rip it in half. Put the other half away in the plastic so it doesn't dry out, and mold the half your holding into a ball. Flatten it into a pancake about 1/2 or less thick and at least a 2 and a 1/2 inch diameter. Use clay lubricant or spray bottle full of soap/water mixture to generously spritz roof. On top panels, slide the bar across 1-1 1/2 foot sections from front to back. If bar doesn't move, definitely spray more lube. Continue to clay on all paint surfaces. On side panels, use up and down motions with bar. It's important in between doing the different panels to buff off what you just did with a towel to remove the clay/lube.
8. Now that you're done with clay, it's smart to wash with Z-7 Wash to remove any residue still left behind, go over dirty spots once again, and get your paint "primed" for the rest of your Zaino products. Follow the same steps as the Dawn, except for the amount, which is labelled as 1-2 capfuls a gallon. From my experiences, you'll use almost exactly a gallon on a midsize car (based on my Acura TL), so I slosh in 2 capfuls. Extra suds are produced with Z-7 and it smells like blueberries. Also remember to clean your mitt thoroughly from your last dawn wash. Fill your rinse water with a clean batch, also.
9. The ZFX vial is your best friend. The car's washed and ready, so pull it back in the garage (a nice shady spot), but make sure you have good light, and if you don't, find a shady spot of your driveway if possible. Take the ZFX vial out of it's holding bottle, take a 2 ounce bottle included with your ZFX and take your Z-2 Bottle, and squirt the 2 ounce bottle about ¼ full of the actual Z-2. To that polish, add about 2 drops of ZFX. The reason I recommend ¼ full of polish is because you hardly use ANY polish per coat. Coats should be ultra-thin, for easy removal. However, if you desire 2 or more coats, plan accordingly and, for 2 coats, fill the little bottle ½ full of polish, and add 4 drops of ZFX. Shake for 90 seconds, set aside for 5 minutes, then shake for another 15 seconds.
10. The actual application of Zaino polish. Spray your applicator pad (included w/ Zaino) with Z-6, and squirt an “x” shape across the pad. On roof and top panels, go from front to back, just like every other application used with this process (washing, claying), and on side panels, do up and down motions. You might not be able to see the coats, but with certain lighting conditions, you might be able to see a haze. One “x” squirt covers a front door and the front quarter panel. If you see a thick, whitish haze, you have applied to much, and it will take a long time to dry, so go over that area again with the applicator, removing excess and using it elsewhere.
11. Let the polish sit on the vehicle for at LEAST 15 minutes in average weather (70 degrees), less if it’s really hot and dry out. Buff off, using the recommended motions, using a fresh, clean towel (bath size), until all haze is gone and paint is ultra-smooth. Follow up coat with a spray down of Z-6. Spray a hood twice, then use another CLEAN towel to immediately spread around and buff off.
12. Repeat steps 10 and 11 for second, third, and all succeeding coats. (no more than 3 a day (24 hour period))
13. Great! You’re all finished. From now on, all’s you have to do is wash with Z-7, and spray some Z-6 if desired, afterward. No more claying or polishing or dawn. However, it is recommended to put another coat or two on every 4-6 months, at least, to maintain the super-shine and finish.
My thoughts: I wish I would’ve gotten more Microfiber. The cotton towels I used linted and made a big mess, and microfiber is lint free. I also couldn’t believe what little polish is needed for a coat! Extremely small amounts to get an even medium thick haze!
Z10 Leather in a Bottle:
I also decided to give this a shot, and boy did it pay off. Squeezing an amount into my hands, I smeared it around on my palms, then directly applied it to the leather surface, rubbing it in until no excess was left on the surface. That’s it! It smells amazing, just like a new car, and no buffing is necessary.
NOTE: If there are smears still within 24 hours of the application, go over the problem areas thoroughly with a MICROFIBER towel, and only microfiber, because of it’s great absorbing qualities. You will be amazed.
In most climates, it needs to be 30 - 60 minutes drying time.
It won't smear if you wait the proper amount of drying time.
1. prepare to be hungry and sore afterwards (esp. in the lower back. is this a sign i'm getting old??). this can be remedied by a large dinner followed by a catnap.
2. maybe 'cause i'm a small girl and a large bath towel would have been too large for me but i prefered to buff off my z5/2 with hand/hair towels. i folded the edges in and folded until it was the size of a face towel. then i just turned to a clean side whenever needed.
new towels always produce more lint. i recommend washing your cotton towels at least twice before using. mine only linted a little and i either blew it off or lightly dusted with one of my microfiber towels.
i also liked the window cleaner. it buffed off easily and didn't smear like it did for some others in this thread.
i wasn't impressed with Z10 leather in a bottle but that maybe because my hubby's leather is already dry and hard (it's 10yrs old).
Z16 for tires was gave the tires a nice gloss. question tho, do you apply it to the whole tire or just the sides? my hubby told me gloss was just for looks but since the bottle said it prevented drying and cracking i was confused.
1. Wash with Dawn
2. Clay
3. Wash with Dawn
4. Z5+ZFX
5. Z6
6. Z2 with or without ZFX??
7. Z6
8. Z2 with or without ZFX??
9. Z6
Please let me know if any step in my plan is incorrect. I plan to do all of these steps within the same 24-48 hour period.
Also, do I need to wet/moisten the polish applicator with Z6 prior to putting the Z5+ZFX polish on??
Thanks for your help!
Good - Your black car will garner the greatest benefit from Zaino. It can look like black glass when you are done.
Bad - Unless it is fresh from the factory, it surely already has some swirl marks and spider webbing.
Look at a reflection of the sun in your paint - do you see all the tiny scratches and swirls? There should be NOTHING - like looking at a reflection in a pond. Those lines are caused by improper care and not using 100% cotton towels for washing and drying.
If you really want the ultimate finish, you will use a professional swirl mark remover or glaze with an orbital buffer to get rid of all the swirls and spiderwebbing. THEN you will have an un-believeable shine that will turn heads a block away.
With careful washing in the future (NO CAR WASHES) and regular Z treatments, it can always look this good.
Good Luck!
If you apply Z-2, yes, you should use ZFX (unless you're planning to apply Z-1 first). I also put Z-6 on after the wash, but before the first application of ZFX/Z-5 or Z-2.
Yep, you should moisten the applicator with Z-6 before putting the polish on...
Hope this helps,
--Robert
--Robert
about z-window cleaner, i know it has an abrasive and is not for every day use but i thought i read somewhere previously that it was recommended on new car interior to get read of chemical haze or something like that.
My truck has been washed only 3 times....2 times at the dealership and once last week after a long trip....followed the wash tips and guidelines on this forum.
After the wash it does look like a mirror...there are no swirls/scratches like I had on my old honda.
However when I see it at night in street light, at a particular angle, it seems like it has perfect large (12 inches diameter) swirls all over....uniformly all over.....even going behind the license plate bracket. The swirls seems just too perfect...even for a machine.
Have any of you experienced/seen this??
Also, does anyone know what it might cost for a professional polish job to remove swirls for a brand new car??
Thanks! Plan to Zaino this weekend.
I know that BMW has to maintain a high standard facility...so I give them the benefit of the doubt. The service person said that it could just be the way that the paint was laid...just his opinion. But he was asked me get it in to make sure that they were spider-webs and not just an optical illusion.
I'm going to Z5 it this weekend and hope it goes away.
Just one more thing...I'm really anal, my senses are hyper-sensitive.....I am probably seeing a little more than I'm supposed to.
Thanks!
p.s. at the beginning of the day, hubby said i was fanatical and not anal. by the end of the day, he agreed that i was anal =P i'm already wondering if i can talk him into doing it again next wed... when's the next za meeting?
As I have stated before, less is better. I barely notice the Z on the surface when I apply. Putting anymore on is just creating grief for yourself...ie. a great deal more "elbow grease" to remove.
The other 'visible' kind of Bra has water/moisture issues similar to the invisible one.
I had an especially difficult time cleaning some sap spots, but I removed each and every one, with a microfiber cloth, as I wanted a perfect canvas for Zaino.
I went through:
1. Dawn
2. Clean Sap
3. Dawn (Needed to get the sap out)
4. Clay
5. Z7 - Wash
6. Z5+ZFX
7. Z6
8. Z2+ZFX
9. Z6 (TBD - To be done)
10 Z2+ZFX (TBD - To be done)
11. Z6 (TBD - To be done)
I'm very happy with the results, but more so because the effort to get a shine (after the initial pain!!) is relatively less. As for the quality of the shine, I was happy but not elated. In all fairness, I had kept my expectations low - with a Metallic Gold Car!! It looked shiny clean, before I started out.
I think tmart posted previously that the difference between Zaino and commercial waxes for Gold or metallic cars are subtle...hope I am shocked in amazement when I do my Black truck next week.
Overall, I would recommend this system to anyone. Please don't get put off with all the abbreviations and seemingly long process. Claying is not as bad and lengthy as it sounds. I had been using Meguiar's NXT prior to Zaino. NXT is really, really good, very easy to put and take off - but still not as good as Zaino. And the value is pretty amazing. I used a half-ounce of Zaino polish for a single coat.....I think my polish will last 2-3 years between 2 cars.
I will evaluate in the morning whether I should do the TBD items. I might take tmart's advice and stop..I did not see a major difference between the first and second coats....but again, winter is around the corner...might just do it to be safe.
Thank you all for your wonderful, helpful advice!!
I've had very good luck with Z-2/ZFX this way. The most recent time I used Z-5/ZFX, however, the mixture wouldn't rinse out at all. Oh well, my wife bought some replacement bottles for me at Michael's, so I should be fine. Of course, she has ulterior motives - wants me to Z her new Envoy...
--Robert
--Robert