Nissan Sentra Repairs

speakman

I have 1140 miles on my new sentry, bought in January for $15700. I loved the car for a week or so then started noticing little things. The hiccup or slight skip in the motor happens every time I drive now, a friend suggested a faulty computer chip. I have a slight rattle in the dash above the drivers side. The engine has a rough idle waiting in traffic and the transmission just seems rough. I researched this car for months before I bought it and thought it was a good choice, now I am sorry I did not go with the Honda Civic EX. My problems are such that the dealer would probably only laugh at me or try and fix it and screw up something else. noticed another post concerning the hiccup and a transmission replacement. Anyone else having problems or advice?

adc100

my Auto Trans replaced when the "service engine soon" light stayed on. The problem was the torque converter was chewing itself up. The auto transmission which was replaced however was smooth and quiet as is the new one. I would document the noise to them. If you would require the tranny to be replaced they will replace it with a "remanufactured" one. I was not happy about that, but after some comforting words from Alcan, I concluded it was at least-maybe better- than a new one. Other than that, I have been totally happy with the car. Look, statistically any given new car could have some problems. It's the luck of the draw. I believe the car is well made and would not give up on it yet. The engine is someshat noisy due to all of those valves-its normal. The engine is proven over 10 years and has been modified to produce over 800 HP. It's way over-designed. Check out this link for Sentra owners. http://www.b15sentra.net/UBB.html

sketeris

I have been having the same problems with my new (400 miles) 2001 Sentra SE manual. I was hoping for information about my problem. I am taking my car into the dealer tomorrow, but my engine will "hiccup" at about 3000-3500rpm. It can happen in 3rd, 4th or fifth, and feels just like someone else described: the engine lets up for a brief second and the car lurches forward and then engine picks up again. I noticed that my tachometer drops to 0 quickly, and then comes back to the 3500rpm I was at. This all happens in an instant, so it's hard to tell what happens, but it's really annoying. And it ALWAYS HAPPENS when I hit a bump in the road - not a large one, necessarily, but just normal road dips and bumps. Also, when I try using the cruise control and hit a bump on the freeway, the car will sometimes start to pull and then accelerate back and forth, causing the car to lurch back and forth, like it's not getting a steady flow of gas. Pushing the accelerator manually sends the car back to normal cruising. So, now i am afraid of my car sudden-stalling when I hit a bump and now I'm tense whenever I'm driving. I think the cruise control lurching and the sudden hiccup are related, because the car pulls in the same manner and they both happen at about 3200rpm when hitting a little bump. If my dealer finds anything, I will report back. Any feedback from you all is appreciated also. This really sucks.

speakman

My 2001 Se Automatic does this as well. I just noticed another new problem yesterday. I broke in my car like the manual said for the first 1000 miles. I pulled out in traffic yesterday and aclerated pretty hard and my car drove like crap for the next 45 minutes it felt like the motor was skipping. It also feels like the tires clomp rather than roll. I am so sorry I bought this car. I did not know about all the problems with sentras. This car gives a very irratic ride ,you never know how it will drive.The engine is so loud. I have only had the car 2-1/2 months, I can only imagine what it will belike a year from now.

sketeris

Well, I sent the car to the dealer and they found nothing after driving it for 13 miles on the freeway and off. Of course they didn't find anything - that's what I expected. My next shot is to do a "road test" with the mechanic in the car. Hopefully this will convince them of the problem. It takes two forms - 1) I am accelerating fairly fast (from 60-75mpg for example) on the freeway and a change in the asphalt on the road creates a bump, which my car hits, and it seems like the fuel flow is interrupted, because the car lurches like it loses power for a split second, and the tachometer dips to almost 0, then it comes back. For the next 45 seconds of driving, the engine seems jittery like the car is not getting a steady stream of gas. OR 2) I have cruise control on at around 70mph and I hit a similar bump in the road and the car starts to do the "jittery thing", only this time, I am not using the accelerator, and the car lurches forward and backward moderately as the flow of gas seems to be unsteady, causing the engine to vary between rpm settings. Very annoying problem, and something I would consider a deal-breaker for buying this car if I had to do over again. Hopefully the dealer will acknowledge the problem if I can reproduce it for them.

sketeris

speakman - give me an email if you want to correspond about this similar problem we're having with our Sentras. I am committed to getting a resolution and we may be able to help each other with information. click on my profile to see me email.

llsipe

Hi! I'm new to the Town Hall but have been a fan of Edmunds.com for some time. I'm in the market for a 2000 car, and am trying to decide between a Corolla or a Sentra. Does anyone have any advice (maybe other websites I could check) on the Sentra's reliability? I am looking for a car that I can drive for some time. Ideally it would be in great shape after 5 years as long as I keep up routine maintenance. I'd greatly appreciate any insight you might have!

adc100

go for the Corolla. The Corolla though is an econobox with an inflated price tag. If you are looking for more car for less money the Sentra is for you. If you can afford it the Sentra SE is the way to go. If you drive both you won't look back at the Corolla. The engine in the SE 2.0L us a world beater with no equals at 145 HP. I say by the SE and if you are worried buy the extended warranty at $1200. BTW this is the last year for the 2.0L they are going to a 2.5L. You also may want to check out the Protege. I own the SE I assure you it is well made. It is however assembled in Mexico.

slavuta

Why are you limiting your self with Corolla or Sentra? Whant to be happy? Get Mazda Protege ES. In message 109 this person means Sentra SE assembled in Mexico. Protege 100% made in Japan. This the best choice out of all. Only Protege "ES"! model. I am telling you. I have now Sentra GXE, Protege ES, Corolla LE and I had Civic LX recently. Protege ES wins it hands down.

adc100

The GXE to the SE. Not even close. The SE is simply more car for less money than the Protege. Can you say 145 HP?? But it's all a matter of opinion. You'll be happy probably with any of those 3. I would however stay away from the Focus. They are as yet unproven. Track record seems to indicate they may be another Pinto. Just my opinion though.

lszabo

I would like to buy the new 2001 Sentra ES, but since I am 6'4 tall, I am concerned that I will have problems driving this car on a longer trips(back pain etc.). Does anyone with such height or greater owns a Sentra ES, and do you have such problems?
Thank you!

adc100

Why don't you try sitting in one?? I can tell you that the seats are the most comfortable of all cars in that carline size. This was a requirement and we tried 'em all.

jlcreasy

I currently have a 94 Sentry 5SP with almost 142k miles. I have nothing but good things to say about it-it has NEVER given me one bit of trouble. I now want to get a 2001 Sentra GXE AT for my son and I to drive because I want him to learn AT before 5SP. My question is, will my new Sentra be as reliable as the 94? I am a little worried about the fact it is made in Mexico. Any advice/help would be very much appreciated. Please e-mail me personally if you don't want to post! (My price range is $14,500 or less on the road)

adc100

Nissan is known for reliable cars. I believe the Sentra has been built in Mexico for the new body styles for two years. So we have new body styles made in Mex. Tha major components Engine/trans are manufactured in Japan. Yet the Trans (auto) already failed in my SE. In addition the engine for your GXE is a new engine this year. More technologically updated than the 2.0L. But the 2.0L has been around for 10 years-its a world beater. Nissan offers more value than any other car I can think of. At the price you want to pay you're looking an a Hundi, Dawoo, Kia,etc some have good warranties-but they are junk and are they going to be in business in 4/5 years.

I was concerned so I got the extended warranty for $1100- zero deductable. In short I have concerns about Sentra reliability. I will tell you though that the Sentra is very solidly built. But what are the choices for the bucks you are looking at???

shadow25

As I read the posts about the hiccups, my blood pressure is rising because I am so mad! I am spending my hard earned money on a new car and already have problems. I happily owned an 88 Sentra for 11 years and did not have any hiccup problem or otherwise until I blew a head gasket at 189,000 miles. So I figured, why not another one. Now my new 2001 hiccups between 2000 and 3000 rpm when the engine is cold and in 3rd gear. The dealer wanted to keep it overnight to replicate the problem and did not find the hiccup. I then went for a drive with the mechanic and it did it with him in the car and he had the nerve to say it was because I was letting off the gas! I don't think so! So now I don't know what to do. I am wondering if I take it in so many times and the problem isn't fixed, can I get a replacement car according to the lemon law? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I hate hassling with dealers/repair shops especially being a woman. Thanks for listening and for any help.

adc100

to claim the car as a lemon because it has to render the car unsafe or undriveable for 3 uncessful repairs. I would take it to another dealer and keep documented records. Keep the 1-800-nissan in mind. Good luck.

zhao3

How about its ( 1997 auto Nissan Sentra GXE) quantity?

Thanks a lot!

muslboi

I would like opinions and advice from those who have had AIR CONDITIONING problems with their Sentra's.

I purchased my YR2000 Sentra in August 1st, 2000 in the 112degree Texas heat last year.

After a long trip from Austin to Houston the air conditioner just seems to stop blowing cold air altogether. After about 20-30 minutes rest its fine again for about another hour.

The Dealer has supposedly "fixed" this problem by adding a sensor or something to the vehicle according to what's a called a TSB or manufacturer's service bulletin for this particular make.

However,..even after having "the fix" i'm still having the problem. Does anyone have this lingering problem? I just refuse to drive the rental saturn anymore,..especially at $40 a day and with no CD player.

thx in advance!

adc100

I don't remember what the answer was. In case you have not been there before- check it out and register. Its a great forum.

http://www.b15sentra.net/UBB.html

muslboi

Well it's been five days without my Sentra because of the air conditioner problem.

The dealership has been unable to reproduce the problem i'm having. But of course they can't,..they're looking at it that's why!

So now, after I called the manufacturer and had them call the dealer, are they re-locating the sensor to a different location on the radiator.

Something tells me that a trip from Austin to Las Vegas is going to prove, once again, that this problem is unresolved.

Will keep ya posted.

chenz

I'm new to TH. I'm trying to decide if I should buy the Sentra SE (mt/pp). I find this board to be very helpful in my decision-making process.

Has anyone been able to find a fix for the hiccup problem that has been recently discussed? Sounds like it may be mechanical issue rather than computer because of the reports of it happening primarily at constant rpm after hitting a bump.

I'm very anxious to see how this is resolved!!!!

Thanks.

adc100

I'm not really sure it is all that common. Check out this link which is a forum for Sentra owners. It's a great board.

http://www.b15sentra.net/UBB.html

sketeris

I did get my problem fixed, (see my posts earlier)
In the mean time, here's what the mechanic said on the invoice, verbatim:

2090 RA999 2.O HD 42 24010-4Z370 ROAD TESTED WITH CUSTOMER AND OVER BIG BUMPS ENGINE WOULD CUT OUT FOR A MOMENT AND CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WOULD FLASH SOMETIMES. FELT LIKE POWER WAS BEING TURNED OFF OR KEY TURNED OFF BRIEFLY. HOOKED UP CONSULT AND CHECKED FOR ANY CODES, NONE STORED. ROAD TESTED WITH CONSULT IN DATA MONITOR AND TRIED TO RECORD INCIDENT WITH CONSULT NO PROBLEM DETECTED EVEN WHEN CAR ACTED UP. CHECKED GROUND WIRE CONNECTIONS AND FOUND LOOSE GROUND AT THE BACK OF THE INTAKE MANIFOLD. TIGHTENED DOWN AND TEST DROVE, SAME PROBLEM STILL THERE. LET ENGINE RUN AND PERFORM ED HARNESS WIGGLE TESTS IN ENGINE AREA, NO CHANGE. WIGGLED MAIN FUSES AND RELAYS IN ENGINE AREA, NO CHANGE. CHECKED FUSE BOX AND RELAYS NO CHANGE. LOCATED ECM RELAY AND PERFORMED WIGGLE TEST, ENGINE STALLED. FOUND POOR CONTACT FROM THE WHITE/BLUE #3 PIN WIRE. RELAY WAS LOSING POWER AND CAUSING ENGINE TO CUT OUT WHEN WIGGLED OR JARRED LIKE GOING OVER BIG BUMPS IN ROAD. CRIMPED PINS AT CONNECTOR F29 TO ECM RELAY, GOOD CONNECTION NOW. COULD NO LONGER WIGGLE HARNESS AND CAUSE ENGINE TO STALL. TEST DROVE OVER SAME BUMPS AS BEFORE AND ENGINE NO LONGER CUTTING OUT. LOSS OF POWER TO RELAY WAS THE CAUSE, OP OK NOW.

Basically, it looks like it was a loose wire, nothing else. Car's running great now, and the problem's fixed. The key for me was taking the mechanic on a test drive and running the car over a bump nearby that reproduced the problem. Good luck to everyone else having problems. Since I've gotten this fixed, I have a much better opinion of this car. It's peppy (SE version), roomy, economical and generally reliable (if Consumer Reports is not lying).

edchen

That's great news Sketeris! Sounds like the mechanic did a really good job diagnosing the problem and fixing it.

carterf

I tried to charge a cell phone while driving on a trip and the first thing I noticed was that when I turned on my blinker it blinked super fast. I unhooked the cell phone and the blinker blinked back to the normal blinking speed again. Does anyone know why this happened? Is this normal? Should I be worried?

accordic

I have a 90' Sentra. It works OK until last week. The transmission quits. It's auto. Every gear works like neutral. It can not engage to Drive or Reverse. What's that can be? Anyone can help? Thanks.

cjstcarter

my husband is out to sea and i think i can do this repair... i have a '91 Sentra, 1.6L, can someone offer suggestions... do's and don't's

bmsory

You have a major transmission problem.
First, try to replace Transmission fluid and
transmission filter this could cost you about
$100.00. If it's not fixed then your transmission needs to be rebuilt or replaced. Sorry, this gonna cost you a big $ I would say somewhare around $1,000.00. Good luck... BM

akb1

I have a 94 Sentra/135,000 miles. Very happy with this car, so far spent $50 on electrical repair. Will buy Nissan again.

Now this car has some noise that seems to come from under the engine. I believe that this is some kind of transmission noise. The engine is as solid as new. When I turn slowly right in parking lots, noise also comes from front left wheel. BTW, this left wheel sound come and goes(Some days/weeks nothing at all).

My guess is I have bad U-joints (or ? as they call these for front wheel drives).

Has anybody had replaced u-joints? How much I should expect to spend?

Thanks.

alcan

An outer constant velocity joint failure is usually indicated by a clicking sound when accelerating from a stop or low speed while cornering. If an outer boot is torn and the grease has been flung out, the joint's toast.

alcan

Retail price for a remanufactured half-shaft assembly which includes the CV joint is $126 Cdn. (You didn't specify manual or auto trans so this is for 3 speed auto). Labour to replace according to my Mitchell Mechanical Labor Estimating Guide is 2.2 hours X whatever hourly rate your shop charges whether manual or auto trans.

akb1

Thanks for providing info.

My Sentra is Auto with overdrive, no ABS. In US it cost me $340 to replace both half shafts and redo alignment at Penske (10% AAA discount). Both the rubber boots were broken and CV joints were dry. So I changed them.

gastonf75

I have a 1996 Nissan Sentry it has been a great car. Two months ago the horn and the cruise control stop working.
I know the horn has a solenoid, but I am not sure what is going on with the cruise control. The turn on light comes
on but when I press set it the cruise light does not come on and the cruise does not set. If anybody has any advice
let me know. Also anybody knows were to get a horn solenoid, other that from the Nissan people.

My battery was drained two days ago, I recharge it and it works fine. But now the Air bag light blinks all the time.
Any suggestions

wyyzz

My 91 Sentry Classic (made in Mexico) has above problem especially in summer. The symptom is very similar to the problem of messages #27, #28, #29, #30 and #36 posted last year. My case, in particular, is after this puppy runs about an hour in hot weather with sunshine, the engine will stop whenever I brake the car. However, I can always re-start. Sometimes, it stops in 5 seconds after re-start and I have to wait for about 5 to 10 minutes for another re-start. I also have the experience of the engine stall at 50mile/hr where the engine can re-start by itself because of the high speed. But the car was shaking terribly. By the way, the engine was never overheat.
The mileage is only 90k and the car has no leaking at all (oil, coolant, fluid etc.). It runs great in winter. Any suggestion is greatly appreciated.