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I've noticed my BMW does this all by itself (downshifts to 4th or even 3rd when it detects a drop in roadspeed, even though you are neither accelerating nor deccelerating.....is that a word?.......slowing down!) but I've learned to accept that the Camry just won't do a few things that the twice-as-expensive 325i will. (Like automatically aim the passenger side outside mirror down toward the curb when reversing...in order to prevent tire scuffing!!....then return to normal when put into Drive or Neutral.)
Trust those Krauts! The Japanese could do it, I'm sure.....probably DO on some upscale models....but you gotta limit the frills somewhere on a $20K family sedan. So, in a nutshell.....accept the technical limitations of the Toyota transmission engineering team.......and have fun doing some shifting for them!!!
Cheers.
Scotty
Right on the mark IMHO. My '09 I4 auto has some of the same trans symptoms/behavior as mentioned throughout this forum. Although the shifting is not perfect, I remind myself to look at the whole picture (car, in this instance) and in that light, the car is superior to most others in the $$ range. I thought about getting the TSB loaded; here's my thought: since I've worked with/on computers for many years, I would hesitate modifying the factory software load. These issues were supposedly corrected in previous MY's and, once the TSB is applied, there's no going back. "NOTE: Software version 3.00.021 or later is required." and "Recalibrate ECM (PCM) Engine & Transmission" as stated in the TSB instructions. Careful what you wish for, it might not live up to what you're expecting. My car now has 4k miles. While pondering whether to have the TSB done, I decided to replace the factory air filter with a $19.99 Purolator from Pep Boys. That was about a thousand miles ago and I am convinced it acts more normal now and runs/shifts better. Could I be dreaming? Maybe, but don't think so and I feel better knowing the ECM (PCM) hasn't been plugged into by a tech that may or may not be experienced in this area.
Is either RWD or R/AWD....
It would be patently unsafe for a FWD or F/AWD to automatically downshift at at, to, a level that might incur a significant level of engine compression braking, even insignificant should the roadbed be slippery..
Anyone have a clue as to what that means?
Is it a percentage off the invoice? nd if so, how much?
thanks
Jagger
Jagger
Jagger
Toyota dealers are getting away with murder these days; give 'em hell in return.
The Toy belongs to another individual, however I cover all gas and maintenance costs. My disappointment is it's gas mileage which is only 2-3 additional mpgs than the 260 hp SC Pontiac..Idle vibration and drony accleration noise is not really a plus, but it is a 4-banger..Shift problems, alignment and vibration ailments plus shoddy overall construction are not the quality pluses along with the dealer lack of concern in trying to explain away problems without trying to address the situation.
Live in Venice,Fla and have only been to the local dealer twice for oil changes and observe the overall activity while waiting and they are quite busy, lots of paper moving..Let's face it, Toy has had a rapid growth and the dealerships are busy.\, however I believe the real quality products are the past models and the recent body redesign of the Camry was needed but has not enhanced some of its past quality achievements..
Back to the 02 XLE in my household, the fit and finsh along with overall workability of all systems is okay', however it's road manners are pitiful..sloppy and unacceptable..The car's condition is pristine, but the suspension is goosey, steering is vague, and the brakes are not worth much..
So before I talk my party into an SE, I would like to be somewhat assured that the current Toy product is worth pursuing. I don't need a mailbox full of TSBs to appease a poor product..I have been thru the repurchase cycle with one of the Big3 and they wrote out a check after 26k miles for the purchase price less $800 for mileage..No lawyers involved and they never drove the car, wasn't a bad car and I turned around and brought the same car only the current model and piled 80k quick miles on it, traded it for another one, same brand, and piles 120k miles on it.
The [non-permissible content removed] are somewhat protective in the repurchase of cars, and if the occasion arose it would be somewhat more involved.
Would appreciate any opinions and complaints on high mileage 2006,2007, and 2008 SEs..Are they still tight and reliable after 50k requiring only tires and brakes.??? Wheel alignments, if properly done at the factory are good for 100k unless the suspension has turned to slop due to cheap components..Struts on a std Camry are pure loosey/goosey, the old Buick ride, lots of travel and zero handling. The SE has sport suspension, and should be tight for 125k miles..
Let's hear...Thanks in advance..
Go Nissan
Jagger
Then, they gave you a different one without too much hassel, so they know what really happened. I'd be VERY careful of this dealer!!!
See the entry/mid level sedan full review on page http://www.nicoclub.com/reviews/sedan-review.shtml which ends with:
The Outcome
The Nissan was easily the number one choice for me. It combines awesome power and style with a touch of class. While it is a fair amount more than the other two, you truly do get what you pay for. It has a nice balance of weight, so it handles well, and all in all is a blast to drive. The cornering capabilities and acceleration put this far above my expectations. The extra options are really a great feature as well. I liked the back-up camera, and appreciate HID lighting.
This board has so much useful advice!.
I have a dealer that would like to sell me a 2009 LE V6
He sent me the build sheet and on it says 2/20/08 for the ship date.
Does that mean the car has been on the lot since March 08?
Should I be concerned?
What about TSBs everywhere I look only has 2008 vehicles?
I just want to make sure people havent avoided this car for a major reason.
Thanks All
Tony
You can defeat this design, however. If you push the recirculate button AND hold it in for 5 seconds, it will stay on recirculate until you push it again or you switch the airflow knob into or out of one of the two defrost positions.
I occasionally do this on my '07 CE (same as the LE except no power seat and no keyless entry).
Jagger
Let me understand this. You're using the customer survey mailed out by Toyota to blackmail the dealership? Now that's interesting.
Of all the vehicles I've owned, there is always a setting or a way to set whether the car beeps or flashes it's lights when the alarm engages and disengages. This info is usually found in the owner's manual. Have you tried checking there?
All in jest, for it must be distrubing to find the 2nd car lacking the hollowed quality of Toyota fame..Hang in there for if it gets worse or excuses mount, and nothing gets fixed, share the this website with the dealer so they can explain their miscues to the Toy believers..
The 02 XLE in my garage has a warranty good thru 9/30/09 or 100k mi..My next trip to get the oil changed I shall get into new struts under the warranty for it will need new tires and no sense buying tires if the suspension is kaput..Next thing will be the timing belt, tuneup, and whatever, so trading time is at hand for additional expense of repairs does nothing to enhance value..
I am not excited about the 09 models, however, the 2010 models will have a new 4-banger engine and maybe they will have figured out some missteps of current run,and my friend will get a SE w/sunroof of the 4 cyl variety, no other bells or whistles..
Having never owned an Asian named car, I am perplexed by the amount of nitpicky problems on some of these cars..
Keep the dealer on the defense..it will get fixed or maybe they will cough up another car....
For the same reasons of safety even in summer the system will not remain in recirculate mode for more than a few minutes unless the A/C is operating.
All automotive A/C compressors MUST be disabled below about 35F otherwise the condensate on the evaporator vanes might/would freeze and block all incoming airflow. I would not be at all surprised if some marques disabled the A/C in the 45-50F range as the ability for the A/C to provide any reasonable level of dehumidification below those temperatures is unlikely except in unusual climatic conditions, COLD and HUMID.