Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options

Saturn Maintenance & Repair

1…78101213…17

Comments

  • Options
    dantheman13dantheman13 Member Posts: 2
    i am sort of having the same problem. i just reached 3000 miles and the car has begun to clunk every now and then when i am in idle at a stoplight or even when i am parked. i havent taken it in yet, but im planning on it to see what they say. have you heard anything back? is it at least running better?
  • Options
    wmramsewmramse Member Posts: 8
    Have you ever replaced the O2 sensor(s)? If your car has 1 sensor you should replace it at 50k miles. If it has 2, you should replace them both at 100k miles. If your rear (post-catalytic converter) sensor is bad, it can cause your car to run awful. I just replaced the one on my wife's car - hadn't coded, but it was over 100k. O'Reilly's carries the Bosch universal O2 sensor for $63ish. The front one (on exhaust manifold) was $22 for the universal model, or about $62 for the exact replacement one. Go with the $22 one - the only difference is that you have to cut/strip/reconnect the wires on the universal, instead of just plugging the new one in. It also could be the exhaust manifold gasket, or one of the other gaskets in your exhaust system (pre-cat), could be leaking. If they're all in good shape, then you could just have a clogged catalytic converter - which the way you described your car sounds like a decent possibility. If that's the case, the only solution is to replace it. I'd do the O2 sensors first and see if that fixes it, but only if you've never replaced them before. If they're relatively new, it's probably the converter.

    Also, with that many miles on it, you could also be looking at a bad coolant temp sensor. It ins't what's causing your converter to code, but it could be contributing to the problem. The universal model is about $6, and is solid brass instead of plastic so you'll never have to replace it again. Worth the extra $6 just to be sure, but that's up to you.
  • Options
    wmramsewmramse Member Posts: 8
    If the coolant poured out of the engine a few hours after you filled it up, that tells me you have a coolant leak. Could be a hose, could be a freeze plug, could be the radiator, maybe the water pump...or it could be a cracked head or blown head gasket. If you drove it with the coolant leaked out of it, you're more likely looking at a cracked head or block. NEVER drive a car without proper coolant level (I don't think your light ins malfunctioning) - it WILL ruin the engine, and from what I've read rarely costs less than $1500 to fix. If you can see the fluid leaking onto the ground, follow the leak and try to find out where it's coming from. If you MUST drive your car before you get it fixed, fill up the reservoir just before you drive it, and if the light comes on stop the car and fill up the reservoir.

    Is your car blowing any smoke? If so, what color - white, blue, black?

    It was probably a pressure test they did - they cap the radiator and pump air in the system, and if there's a leak it will squirt the fluid out to where they can find the leak. If this isn't the test they did, find a different shop and get this done. As for your #2 question, it could very well be caused by #1, but right now getting your coolant system fixed should be your top priority. If fixing #1 doesn't fix your #2, you may have damaged your engine by driving it without coolant. Either way, keep us in the loop.
  • Options
    rob93rob93 Member Posts: 1
    Hi:

    I have a 93 SC1 that is doing the same thing as yours with the exception of the noise being more of a hum then a clicking sound. All your other symptoms are exactly the same.
  • Options
    saturn200saturn200 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem as you,exactly the same,my car's model is Saturn 2000.Now I am waiting for that,hope it's ok after 1 hour.
  • Options
    96saturnsc296saturnsc2 Member Posts: 1
    my saturn sc2 runs perfect when cold, then as soon as it reaches 1/4 on the temp. gauge it jerks and then keeps going, then when i let off the gas and hit the gas again it jerks again! then after i get out and it sat for about 5 min. i get back in and start it and when i take off it stalls!! even when reversing!! ive changed the wires, plugs, pcv valve, cold air sensor, air filter vacum hoses, throttle body with the gaskets, im putting more money in this car than its worth, all i have left is injectors, but i was told not to change those because it runs to good, and to change the coils and ignition module. i just have a part time job and cant afford insurance let alone parts to fix my car. so please help me out, if you guys really think you know what it is please tell me and ill buy it and hopefully it works, whats worse is the service engine light wont come on, when it first happened it came on and i got the diognostic test and it said it had a stall problem, thats all they could tell me then he cleared it out the system but the car still does it. i feel like letting it hesitate off a cliff!! :surprise:
  • Options
    alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    The coolant temp sensor has been problematic and can cause the symptoms you describe.
  • Options
    brekfustuvluzebrekfustuvluze Member Posts: 1
    When I try to start my car, It won't start unless I pump the gas and sometimes it takes a while. when it finally does start, white smoke pours out of the exhaust. electrical is good and i just replaced spark plugs and wires because I though maybe a cyllender wasn't firing but that did nothing. if anyone has any ideas please help.
  • Options
    judyejudye Member Posts: 2
    My daughter's 2000 saturn is very loud from about 45-65mph. We have changed the serpentine belt but that did not make a difference. Any suggestions what to check? the loudness is coming from the front of the car not the exhaust area and and is not loud in park. thanks for any help!!
  • Options
    alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    If there's oily residue in the radiator overflow tank, the cylinder head is cracked.
  • Options
    alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    If it's a rattling type sound from the right side of the engine, probably worn out timing chain guides. Easy to pick out with a stethescope. If not replaced, the chain will jump and bend the exhaust valves.
  • Options
    judyejudye Member Posts: 2
    It's not a rattling sound just a loud engine. I don't know how else to describe it. I know that seems vague but the engine is just loud between those speeds.
  • Options
    chico316chico316 Member Posts: 3
    Wife was driving '01 L200 2.2L and it died. I'm getting fuel and the car turns over but does not start. With a coil pack instead of a regular distributor cap, can I check spark? Could the pack be my problem? How can I have it checked? No local dealerships here, can a regular mechanic test it or Napa etc? Can it be tested off the vehicle?
  • Options
    cntrygurlcntrygurl Member Posts: 12
    i just tok my 05 ion quad coupe 3 to the garage for the 9th time for the same problem that i have been having since i bought it in february ,it loses power when you go to take off from a red light stop sign etc ,it also shakes when you go start it ,and on cold mornings it wont start ,i have had this car to 2 dealers and they said nothing is wrong with it ,but the last time we brought it back fron the garage we were getting off a exit ramp ,my husband had his foot all the way down on the gas pedal and the car still wouldnt move ,i would like to know if anypne is having this problem ,we are at the point whee we are getting a lawyer to file a lemon lawsuit agains gm since they wont do anything with this car :lemon:
  • Options
    sanamsanam Member Posts: 1
    saturn problem

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    hello everybody,

    please help me !! i have recently bought a used '99 saturn car, L2 SERIES.

    the problem is the car wont start in the morning due to moisture. if i start the car in the afternoon it runs perfectly fine.

    i took it to the garage and they said it was a starter problem , so i had it replaced and got it home. the next day morning when i again started it , it didnt start.

    i took it back to the garage and now they have said that it could be a wiring problem..

    i have spent close to 300 bucks already when i havent even used it. what do you think i should do and would it be a wiring problem. please suggest what i need to do next .....
  • Options
    sensei_craigsensei_craig Member Posts: 8
    THe ticking is most likely the A/C clutch engaging and disengageing. It will also show a slight RPM shift when at idle during the clutch cycling. Most likely if your A/C is cooling while making the "ticking" you have a low pressure switch dropping out. This can be a bad switch or more likely your 134A coolant charge is low. Take it to the dealer and have them check your A/C charge. :blush:
  • Options
    sensei_craigsensei_craig Member Posts: 8
    Fans are thermostatically controlled. Your temperature sensing portion of the enable circuit is not connected or not functioning. Check all connections and if the thermostatically controlled module is replaceable, replace it. Check your ground. Not much else should be wrong if the fan is functional.
  • Options
    sensei_craigsensei_craig Member Posts: 8
    Another solution is to go to Jegs, Summit racing, or parts store and buy an adjustable thermostat for the fan. I run them on my race car and can set the point I want the fans on for. These can be run in series with the stock one and will just help you set the low limit.
  • Options
    sensei_craigsensei_craig Member Posts: 8
    I think "alcan" has it right, when the coolant sensor is bad it tells the ECM that the outside temperature is -40, this runs your mixture way rich. It will start and run until you get up to temperaturea nd then eventually it will stumble and will become undriveable. I had a 1991 Astro with this problem and I could not even maintain highway speeds. Eventually the spark plugs will foul and its a tow job. Sensors are cheap and easy to replace by the averge Joe. Usually they are on top of the engine and can be replaced with as socket wrench. The sensors are about $10.
    Good luck.
  • Options
    sensei_craigsensei_craig Member Posts: 8
    First of all pumping the gas pedal on your vehicle will not do anything. Pummping the gas is a technique for introducing fuel on carburated vehicles, yours is fuel injected. If pumping the pedal helps you may have a bad TPS (throttle position sensor). This does not explain your other symptoms.
    The starting issue is your real problem and is related to the "smoke". if it is white smoke it is due to coolant getting into the cylinders. Check the condition of your oil, if it is milky and not normal you have a real problem related to your heads and can lead to engine failure. If you see oily residue in the coolant overflow this is another bad sign. This can be a bad head gasket or cracked head.
    Pull the spark plugs and check their condition. If one looks overly clean it could be the bad cylinder since it has been "steam cleaned".
    This is not a problem that will go away, have it checked ASAP.
  • Options
    sensei_craigsensei_craig Member Posts: 8
    It may be a long shot but Saturns are notorious for tire wear, check the condition of the tires they can make some very unusual noises at specific vehicle speeds. Saturns are underdamped in the suspension requiring very frequent tire rotation to maintain even wear. Saturn recommends rotation every 6,000 miles. Try rotating the tires, it can't hurt.
  • Options
    bug3bug3 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 SL2 4 door Saturn. Unfortunately I was to close to a wall and whacked my drivers side remote mirror. I am not mechanical at all, but wanted to know what to expect before I went to the Saturn repair service.

    The mirror is hanging on the side of the door and the glass is gone, and a piece is chipped off. About how much can I expect this to cost? Also what is the repair time for this, is it complicated? Can I replace it with a manual, will that be cheaper?
    Thanks :)
  • Options
    srb019srb019 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Saturn SL1 (automatic) with about 85,000 miles on it. About two weeks ago, it started smoking under the hood while I was going 60+ miles. It wasn't overheating (as the coolant was full and the temperature light did not go on or temperature gauge reach hot). I parked it for while and when I drove it again, there wasn't as much smoke as before. I took it to the Saturn dealership yesterday, and they told me that they believed it was the transmission and that I may need to get a new one. This puzzled me as I had no problem with the car shifting into gears. So, is the problem my transmission and do I need a new one?
  • Options
    jkorner40jkorner40 Member Posts: 1
    Sorry that your having so many issues. I would call the saturn customer service center at 1800 553 6000. I would also write a letter to saturn's Gm.
    I would also try to have the car looked at my another dealer or an independent third party. sounds like a computer problem. Check the lemon laws in your state,
    You may have one. Good luck
    John
  • Options
    bradmbradm Member Posts: 1
    I have a 96 SL1. It's a great car and I've never had any major problems. However, the electrical system is horrid. The horn doesn't work, the backup lights don't work, the system that controls door chimes and interior lights doesn't work, among other irritations. The worst problem of all, that I'd like to solve before winter arrives, is this: when the temperature gets below -15 C (I'm in Canada) the windshield wipers and the washer fluid pump turn on spontaneously and won't quit until the car is significantly warmed up. Any thoughts?
  • Options
    gluv2luvgluv2luv Member Posts: 1
    Hello I have a 1997 Saturn. The problem you have with the Sulfur smell is coming from the catalytic converter. As it has stopped working on your car. It must be replaced. Mine did the same thing. The reason the engine runs bad is the converter is blocking the flow of exhaust gases. Also they ( the exhaust gases) are not being changed inside of your damaged converter. Most muffler shops can help you. As they are alot cheaper than the Saturn dealer. That is to say if you can not find a friend or a family member to help you replace the converter. The new parts are available on the internet. Just do a Google search for Saturn parts. Good Luck I hope this helps you.
  • Options
    paul_220kpaul_220k Member Posts: 1
    My 1995 SL2 (manual) has eclipsed 219,600 and is still a very reliable car. I've logged quite a few repairs, but none were major failures - most can be attributed to normal wear and tear. I think most folks who are consistent with preventative maintenance (PM) have happier stories to tell. Saturns are like older Macintosh computers, they work great as long as you perform PM to preempt errors or failures.
    Routine
    I change the oil every 3K, clean the carbonized throttle bodies at 20K, flush coolant sys annually, rotate the tires every 6K, and for 5-spd manuals: change the transaxle fluid every 50K, EGR 30-40K, air filter 10K, plugs/wires 60K, serpentine belt 100K, O2 sensor when I screw-up and use the wrong throttle body cleaner...
    I bought the car new in Fall of 1994, so the replacements are many, but pretty good for 11 years of service:
    6 rotor turnings (solves vibration when braking)
    2 sets of front rotors (due to turning and wear)
    2 sets of front bearings (waited too long to get new rotors)
    1 set of front brake calipers - 190K
    1 electronic ignition module (premature failure) - 25K
    4 sets of tires
    5 batteries
    1 cooling fan (radiator) - 190K
    2 alternators
    1 catalytic converter (1 pending, strange...) - 190K
    1 TXV (thermostatic expansion valve - A/C) - 219K
    10 O-rings replaced (A/C, one-time deal) - 219K
    1 radiator - 219K
    1 gear shifter bushing (famous Saturn problem fixed w/ 10-cent zip-ties) - 219K
    2 tensioners - 30K, 190K
    1 parking brake handle (teeth worn down)
    1 hood release cable/mechanism (under dash)
    Unaddressed Issues:
    Air bag code (idiot light flashes)
    Center console backlight failure
    Cruise control intermittently throttles-up until driver manually disengages
    Burns 1 Qt oil every 750 miles (seems typical for this engine) - keep case in trunk
    Decreasing milage (24-27 mpg) - signs of age?
    Windshield is badly pock-marked - like a gradual sand blast over the years

    Everything else works --> power windows, original clutch, original A/C compressor... (knock on wood)

    Anyone have a catalytic converter last only 20K? Maybe it's due to the extreme oil-burn in this engine causing heavy deposits in the converter?
  • Options
    iondonnaiondonna Member Posts: 1
    I purchased a 2005 Ion Quad 3 in late April. It is presently at the dealer getting fixed, again. I have a very irritating high pitch whining noise in the engine. They told me this is "normal" in all Saturns. Does anyone else have this noise in their vehicle, they say it is the way the engine is set up and its the alternator making the noise, but is in all Saturns. Also, leaks. Anyone having problems with their 05's with leaking into the bottom panel of doors? Also able to hear the wind and road on the drivers side. Write me if you have same problems.
  • Options
    katie_hkatie_h Member Posts: 1
    hey!
    I have the 94 model and i was wondering what the trick is to getting the heat casing off the battery so i can change it. any suggestions? thanks!
  • Options
    justairbearjustairbear Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 ION QUAD cpe 2 and I also have leakage problems. My car is currently at the dealership now being worked on for the 4th time for water leaks. My passenger side leaks into the bottom panel and my drivers side door leaks onto my seat. I am very unhappy with the car and the service at the dealership. Everytime i took it in the past yr they always say they fixed it but obviously they havent. write me back.

    PS- ur not alone!
  • Options
    akf05akf05 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 96 Saturn sl1 and when i take off the engine makes a whining noise. i cannot figure out what it is does anyone know. please email me at punk200516@yahoo.com
  • Options
    mindpaintmindpaint Member Posts: 1
    :sick: Exact same problem here. 2003 L200, ses light on, shifting hard, and cooling fan runs continuously (and seemingly fast and loud) after engine is started. This seems like some VERY specific symptoms, and I've got to believe there is a very specific fix. Anyone? Also, all three symptoms appeared within' 30 minutes of each other. Noticed Fan, then hard shifting, then the constant-lit SES light (not "service" light but non-wrench one). This is a 2.2 4cyl.
  • Options
    jadubjadub Member Posts: 2
    My 2005 Vue was broken into. The popped the lock on the driver side front door. I know there is power because the cigarette lighter adapter works. The ignition does not work. All lights are out. Key chain doorlock does not work. I am going to check and replace blown fuses. Can anyone suggest how I can get it started (to drive to service station)? Thanks Much! :sick:
  • Options
    jenn1975jenn1975 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 96 sc2 1.9L DOHC. I was having similar problems. I would drive and then be stopped at a light, go to accelerate, and have nothing. I wouldnt be able to go any faster than about 12mph at 3200rpm. At times I have lost reverse, and then when it does kick in... the "thunk" is quite prominent. I replaced my transmission. Seeing as how my computer was kicking back 'improper gear ration' on the good ol' diagnostic... and she did have 101K on her. $800 and 1 week later, I am back in the same boat, and now told that my PCM module is shot. :mad: $710 from the local dealer plus $200 to program, not including installation. Do your homework on this one. Lots of people have had this problem.
  • Options
    satyrnsatyrn Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 SL2 1.9L DOHC with auto transmission. Car has been stalling while driving every month or so for the past year. Recently started stalling more frequently and eventually refused to start. Took it in and had the fuel pump replaced &f uel filter checked. Car now starts fine and runs fine mostly, but the stalling while driving still happens on occasion.

    Last night happened again while on the freeway: while cruising around 55 mph, acceleated to pass another car. Car hesitated to accelerate, then after a few seconds did accelerate, then downshifted into 3rd while accelerating. After passing the car, my car shifted back into 4th. 20 seconds later while cruising around 65 mph, the car started to buck a bit. Put it in neutral and RPM dropped to about 300, then engine died. Was able to restart. I am unable to make the car stall on-demand.

    There is a hill near where I live. When I accelerate to go up this hill, car does fine, but once I top out and begin to come down the other side and begin slowing to come to a stop, the car often stalls (4 out of 8 tries). Once, it came to a complete stop and did not die but idled very rough for a few minutes (which means it can't be the Torque Converter Clutch, right?). Engine Warning Light came on for a few minutes but then went off.

    Any ideas what's wrong? The mechanic who replaced the fuel pump thinks it might be the torque converter clutch or the solenoid-driven valve used by it. I am wondering if it isn't the Throttle Position Sensor.

    I am considering unplugging the Torque Converter Clutch as a way to rule it out. Any concerns in doing so?

    Thanks,
    - Michael
  • Options
    dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    have your insurance company tow it to the service station.
  • Options
    andygrandygr Member Posts: 1
    Paul,
    what is "gear shifter bushing?"

    I am having a problem with my 94 SL2 gears where I can not shift them when the car is started. No problems when the car is off. Someone suggested it might be a synchromesh problem. I have about 103,000 miles on my car.

    Thanks

    Andy
  • Options
    2000saturnsl22000saturnsl2 Member Posts: 3
    :cry: i was driving to work yesterday and just out of the blue my service engine soon light flicked on...after i got to work and got on my lunch break i went out there, filled it with oil, checked the rest of my fluids then started it up to see if anything changed and nothing did...i have 166,000 miles, and its a 2000...i've never had past problems with it except one day in the winter it came on then shut off a day or 2 afterwards...but this time i feel its acutally something because the day that it came on when i started it up it kind of started funny...it may have been cause its getting cold but either way its still bothering me. and like i said ive never had problems with it before, its a used car and ive had it since feb. of this year, the car as been great to me since, and i just recently had an oil change...not even 500 miles ago and this time around i had them put the high milage oil in.

    someone at my job also said that it could possibly be my timing belt due to the milage on it...so...does anyone have any ideas?
  • Options
    alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    If the Service Engine light is on there should be stored trouble codes in the engine computer. Have the codes retrieved (AutoZone will do it no charge) and post them.
  • Options
    2000saturnsl22000saturnsl2 Member Posts: 3
    wow thanks...ill have to take my car down there sometime soon
  • Options
    2000saturnsl22000saturnsl2 Member Posts: 3
    i jsut did what you said, i took it to jiffylube (no auto zone around here tha ti know of) he didnt tell me the excat codes but he did tell me what happened, 4 of them came up, but i think some were stored from the last time the light came on and shut off on its own cause it was never acutally cleared...

    speedometer didnt get the right reading
    a slow lead of something...i cant remember what he said
    ems failure (i think thats what he said)
    and i cant remember the 4th one

    he reset my light and told me to see if if comes back on, so now i guess i wait...thanks for telling me to do that though
  • Options
    alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    You're welcome. If it happens again, try to get the specific code #'s. They'll be 5 digit, Pxxxx.
  • Options
    yzrideryzrider Member Posts: 2
    i just picked up a 96 saturn the other day.im having a problem with it losing spark.at times i can drive the car for miles with no probs then other times i break down 3 times in 5 miles.if i let the car set on a adverge of 15 mins when i lose spark it will start right up .im not getting any codes from the computer says it runs great.i know it it loseing spark cause i pulled plug wire off when it quit in no spark.i was thinking that maybe my coil was heating up but that just doesnt make any sence cause at times will run flawless in other times like crap.i have a feeling that this car is going to knickle in dime me to death.in the modlue behind the coil packs is pretty exspence to to take a guess at.is there a way to check to see if im getting power to the modlue.im thinking that my loss is before that in the packs.im oppen to any ideas would like to get this car running all the time.also this has a 98 sl motor in it.thanks
  • Options
    valkyrie99valkyrie99 Member Posts: 4
    I had a 2000 SL1 and the first engine went on me at 78000 kms - cause was a broken valve. At first they wanted $5000 then they went to $2500 and then we settled on $750. They put the engine in and it lasted 450km. No kidding, only 450km - cause was premature wear, the engine was worn out like it had over 300,000 kms on it. The next engine was put in and at that time I decided to get rid of the car. The Saturn dealership would not give me enough to cover what I still had left owing so I ended up trading it for a Buick LeSabre at a small used car dealership that my cousin works at but I had to eat $1500. I was later told by my cousin that they sold the car a few weeks later and the transmission broke on the guy. I am so glad I got rid of that car. My recommendation is see if you can negotiate a cheaper price and trade the car in on something else right away.
  • Options
    valkyrie99valkyrie99 Member Posts: 4
    Your problem is a both a worn coil and the module. I have seen problems like this in many GMs. Like most electrical if it is an intermittent problem you would have to wait until the problem reoccurs and then check the resistance of the various parts, but you would need to know what the values need to be. The only other way is to put the car on a scanner and run it until the problem happens. Garages will charge about $50.00/hr for this.
  • Options
    97sc2leather97sc2leather Member Posts: 2
    ok i will try to explain everything:

    i had a cyl 1 misfire p0301 and a camshaft position sensor error p0310 i believe i changed the plugs wires coils gas filter ects i then had a cyl 4 misfire p0304 but it was on and off not all the time the car drove great for 3 hours then like crap i put it on the compuyter at the shop for 3 hours it said cyl 4 misfire he ran tests on everything nothing came up with a problem everything checked perfect went to another shop checked the ohms on the wires coils perfect changed the plugs 4 times after went away for 5 minutes 1 hour 3 hours came back each time switched the cyl 1 and 4 wire at the coil thinking maybe the wires got switched ran great for 1 hour then got a cam shaft position sensor then the next morning got a cyl 1 misfire camshaft error was gone switched the wires back stayed on cyl 1 misfire took my msd coil off put back on old coil cyl m1 misfire took that coil off bought new stock coil put it on cyl 1 misfire took it back off put back on old stock coil cyl 1 misfire all my plugs are black the same black pretty much now here is were it gets tricky when it said cyl 4 misfire i pulled the cyl 4 wire off while it was missing it ran even worse very confused and mad i put it back on and pulled the number 1 cyl wire off while it was missing no difference apparently it has been cyl 1 the whole time but it was reading it as cyl 4 after i pulled the wire off it is now reading it as cyl 1 consistantly i pulled the wire clip off the injectors one by one while it was running cyl 1 gave me a noticable difference cyl 2,3,4 gave me a difference but not as much as cyl 1 all in all injectors seemed good the car is running rich but i do not smell gas i do smell some oil burning but it does smell normal for a saturn with 152k on it so i do not believe it is the regulator i also did a compression test each cyl has about 195psi so that checked out ok so i don't think it is the head i have spent a lot of money trying to figure this out and nothing is working i am about to go buy the module for $130 at pepboys and try that if anyone can help me with this at all i will name my next child after you thios has been going on for weeks and appears to be getting more often now everytime i start the car it idles great until i give it gas and let it rev back down as soon as it revs back down it starts missing before it just did it whenever it felt like it please any help will be greatly appreciated
  • Options
    mpinellimpinelli Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1998 saturn that I recently had in for a full tune -up. Unfortunately my battery was defective and later had to be replaced. Now, the car will not turn over. Th plugs, wires, et cetera are all new & there was no problem prior to the battery dying. -- any suggestions?

    Also, does anyone know how to reset my radio. There is no Saturn dealer nearby and I don't have the damn code!!! I'd like to reset the radio, then disarm this security feaure. Thanks
  • Options
    97sc2leather97sc2leather Member Posts: 2
    tyr putting it in neutral and starting it
  • Options
    peat2peat2 Member Posts: 1
    Last week while driving at about 75 on the freeway my car started kicking and bucking. The tac went to zero, all other electrical worked (lights, blinkers, flashers, radio, AC/heat, etc.). When I got it started again, drove it the rest of the way to work and when I put it in park, it was idleing high. I shut it off and it ran normal. It has now done this about 5 times, doesn't seem to matter what speed, and seems to maybe getting worse. I pulled the codes and it has 12 (normal), 19 - 6X signal fault, 41 - EST bypass, open or shorted, and 43 - ESC (knock sensor) circuit open or shorted. 19 and 41 refer to a possible DIS Module - What is a "DIS Module"?

    Has anyone seen something like this? Any ideas?
  • Options
    yzrideryzrider Member Posts: 2
    i got another question for ya.i finally got my car to display a code it said that the cam shaft postion sensor was malfunction.ok the car was still quitting untill i ran low on oil when my oil light started to flash the car started running correctly.so now that it is low it hasnt quit once.do u think that maybe my sensor is getting coved in oil when the oil is at recommended levels like maybe a bad seal somewhere,and the reason it hasnt quit now is cause oil is low so its not getting the sensor.this is just a thought i was having .also i tried to change the module in the coil paks car was still quitting.all this makes sence to me why the car is starting after sitting cause the oil has time to dry up .well any thoughts
This discussion has been closed.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles