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Chrysler 300M Transmission Problems
I just purchased a 2001 300M with 57000 miles on it. I was driving it home thinking about how great it was running, shifting etc when the tranny disengaged. I could not do anything to get it back except that if I shut the car off and then turned it on again, I could crawl forward in drive as long as I did not go over about 1000 rpm. I lost reverse and all other gears. Engine codes P1684 and P0700. I have a hard time believing that the tranny went out at this mileage and wondered if anyone had had a similar problem. I should mention that this was the first drive of the car at a considerably higher altitude in case that has anything to do with it.
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Brenda
I spoke to a tranny shop & he said the whole tranny needs to come out & be rebuilt along with diferential as he says that is where my clunking is coming from
Is it possible to change the diff bearing without removing the tranny from the car ?
have you ever seen these symptoms before?
(btw - my car also displays the infamous "300m light show").
now I am having problems.. I think it could be the tranny, I drive fine with any speed under 80miles an hour, then when I hit 80-85mph the engine light kicks in and the engine feels like it wants to stall shaking around...If any one can help me with some info of what might the problem be.
thnx :shades:
If only the hub caps/wheels didn't cause the tires to go flat (and the air conditioning fails even though I had it fixed 3 times in 3 months), I'd be a happy camper.
"my hooptie rollin, tail pipe draggin, heater don't work and my old ladys naggin"
When decelerating my car jolts then gets stuck in first gear. I turn it off then on and the problem goes away for a few miles. Our mechanic said the check engine light says" stuck in first gear". He flushed and conditioned the trans. For a few months now I have also been having problems with my interior and headlights flashing. Also the radio station presets change? new battery 1 month ago and problem still persists. Could these problems be related? Maybe fuses or electrical system or separate trans problem? Anyone ever hear of this?
Any thoughts at all for me and my mechanic??? Goldenhoard
I am VERY mechanical but trannys are complicated things that will have you chasing your tail. I tried to pull codes with the "key dance" and it seems to have no coes. (engine light is not on)
any thoughts?
Things like , vacuum leaks in the engine - can cause late or hard downshifting where the engine RPM's are lower than normal , where the gears almost miss meshing (then they clunk) - because the transmission is still spinning faster than what the engine is (they are out of synch) - when the shift occurs , and while the sensors are no longer able to send a proper signal to the onboard electronics. So ... more than ever - your car's battery/cables & engine components must be in good condition to expect the transmission to work correctly. You must also , change the transmission filter & O-ring (that goes onto the valve body in the transmission oilpan) - just as you would for your engine , every 50,000 miles/77,000 km. They are not expensive.
The primary cause of "check engine light" & other "flickering" of the instrument panel lights etc. - is caused by corroded aluminum battery post terminals & the "inline fuse link" on the positive battery cable. Which can be removed or replaced with a similar type fuse link (which is only a smaller portion of cable to disallow full current to overload the battery/PDC/PCM etc. combination) - and it can be discarded without any problem. After doing so - you will not have any instrument panel problems , or odd DTC's building up as a result of the intermittent power flow from the battery/alternator - charging system , etc. Otherwise , you could be replacing sensors until the wiring harness is capable of producing an increased efficiency within it's contents to make all sorts of DTC's or test findings/dashlights or symptoms - go away temporarily.
Basically , these things work just like new spark plugs that still don't make the engine stop missing or hard to start - because of the fact that the spark plugs wires (or coil packs & connections) are faulty. But , changing the spark plug type or gap etc. , could produce some temporary results in these areas if you don't consider the power flow to the spark plugs. Obviously , once you replace the spark plug wires or coil packs etc. , and the problem is gone for a long period (with the new spark plugs) - you have solved the problem , and not just altered it.
For example : If you were to remove an oxygen sensor from your exhaust , and you also had a faulty MAP sensor etc. as well , the electronics system can no longer calculate transmission & engine rpm's correctly - so "limp-in mode" is set as a result. Jumping to conclusions , with a bad battery/ terminals and cables , and/or engine component connections (ie: hoses), is the worst thing you can do.
I have solved these problems on my 2002 300M Special , simply by ensuring the battery/cables & connections were good by replacing them with steel battery terminals & new cables. Aluminum is a poor conductor at best - and after years of exposure to the elements - they will show intermittent continuity or none at all in some places (whereas the cables may also produce these fluctuations full time as well) - due to inner corrosion or metal fatigue. Any on and off or up and down fluctuations in current flow can cause all sorts of sensor/computer problems , which the transmission relies upon. Any time you have a diagnosis of sensor problems , it's best to consider the power flow (and the fact that the vehicle is not in full operating conditions while it is checked at idle) , prior to replacing any. There are some mechanics who will inconsiderately replace any sensor that a tester tells them has a problem with voltage etc. This is like replacing your home PC , or it's components , when the wall plug or the main power cable is in terrible condition or slightly faulty (having been outside for 10 years). Today's cars are now effected by these intracacies.
One sure way to test your battery posts/terminals & cables is to use a sensitive analog meter - and run the positive probe along the edges of surface , and note whether or not the meter needle swings from left to right while it is in a continuity mode. If it does at any point , you don't have constant continuity. As opposed to just setting the meter to the 50 volt range , and looking for 12 volts etc. , at any given single points. The connection should measure and have constant continuity at any point including the connections & surfaces. Inside an oxidized aluminum battery terminal clamp (where the connecting cables are soldered) - the cable is probably also oxidized (bad continuity). When NEW aluminum cables etc. are measured & tested - they will never show a loss of continuity. And if an analog tester can detect a fluctuation - then your car's computer will as well.
The cable itself shifts the transmission , but the switch is connected to the brake pedal , which must be pressed (safety feature) , or else the shifter release button will not unlock. When this incorporated setup is correctly set , you should test the shifter unlock button (front of shifter) , by attempting to move the shifter "without" pressing the brake pedal. If the shifter moves (without having pressed the brake pedal) - it is NOT set correctly , and a fault code may be recorded by the PCM as a result - or a short circuit could exist (lights flickering). When the incorporated cable/switch mount is set correctly , only when you have the brake pedal pressed (should the transmission come out of park).
As far as hard downshifting or like symptoms , there are some factors involved that pertain to the transmission filter/fluid and fill volume. Firstly , the original transmission filter is of a specific type (spring loaded felt) , and has a Chrysler emblem stamped onto it's metal casing. Any other filter may be inadequate or perform abnormally (not the same filtering material and no internal filter spring). Secondly , the proper transmission fluid must be used (MOPAR ATF+4) , which "is" red in colour when poured , but it also appears as "blue" in it's entirety (brown would be very overused or aftermarket fluid). According to the Chrysler Service Manuals & Owner's Manual , the fluid should be (4 quarts) , which is the amount required to reach 1/8" below the cold mark as suggested by the Service Manual as the correct replacement amount (volume of transmission oilpan). "If" you only replace 4 quarts of new fluid , you will find that the transmission will not operate correctly , and that in fact , 5 quarts or slightly more is necessary "if" you allow the transmission to fully drain dry (so that you can more effectively get a seal when you reapply the silicone to the oil pan gasket). There is no drain plug or hole in the transmission oilpan. Moreover , both the Service Manual and the Owner's Manual specifically state that the use of "other" types of transmission fluids are NOT recommended , and that more frequent fluid and filter changes will be required if you do. Also , that the use of transmission fluid additives is absolutely NOT recommended. Case in point also - is that the actual MOPAR transmission fluid container states that it's contents (chemical/oil properties) - are specifically designed and include additives that protect and promote proper operation of the transmission [meaning : any other ATF+4 fluid is NOT specifically tested or made with the same additives required for proper operation of the Chrysler transmission]. The MOPAR transmission fluid DOES contain additives not found in all ATF+4 fluids. Note also , that the MOPAR container is 5 Litres (approx. 5 quarts) in volume - NOT 4 Litres (approx. 4 quarts).
In some cases , even the Chrysler Service Manuals can be incorrect. You should refill the transmission with 5 quarts/litres of MOPAR ATF+4 fluid to achieve proper operations.
HATE THIS CAR!!!!!
As far as any transmission goes , it's best to deal with the dealer who knows their cars best. Things like , inadequate or non-OEM transmission filters can raise both the temperature and pressures inside the transmission to the point where , as you experienced , the exact same thing occurs repeatedly. The transmission fluid must be OEM as well , and cannot be added to , mixed or otherwise adversely lubricated. The engine block coolant is exactly the same because of the use of more aluminum in these parts. They require good quality / correct lubrication. Aluminum is not strong , it is lightweight and more functionally durable if treated with the correct lubrication fulltime , so you can't grossly miss the service intervals to change the transmission or coolant fluids. Race engines are exactly like this if used on the street , or for whatever other reasons. They will work better , but only if you take proper care of them.
I know that some service centers provide disgusting and inadequate service , GM being one of the best , whereas FORD is just absolutely unbelievably stupid. FORD broke my ignition switch at the dealership because they had no idea that my pickup had a slider lock that needed to be in the release position to turn the key. Their own vehicle , with claims of outrageous sales numbers , and they couldn't figure out how to turn the key into the run position to push the vehicle while it was getting an oilpan replacement. I guess they decided to move my truck while the engine was apart. And they gave it back to me with a broken lock/cylinder after the repair. To top that off , the starter motor was not properly installed , it got stuck in the on position where I had to get out while the engine and starter were turning together and pull the battery cable off with a wrench. Is that stupid or what? GM repairs will rack up alot of costs , but at least things will work or work out. Ford , takes your money and it doesn't run , work or remain in any kind of "same" condition.
You mentioned that your miles were granny miles or whatever , and GM sure fits the bill on that kind of owner operation. Stand on it to the floor everywhere you go , well , expect the worst from just about any maker. Then there's the owner who NEVER changes anything , just drives the car until it stops type of user , and angrily enters the service bay.
Sellers of cars , dealerships included , can sell you something that has been abused and NOT consider those details in terms of value. When I bought my 300M , I considered buying from someone who , at least claimed they never had any problems with the vehicle. And , no mechanic is going to put his time into a vehicle he knows has been abused. So... when you get to a mechanic , he has no choice but to put your vehicle through a thorough recap , where anything missed up to that point , cannot be corrected. This is also why some mechanics do lousy work , as they know the vehicle is a goner already. So.. they give you half of what you pay them on the spot in terms of service.
It pays to put some money into maintainence , and NOT do the disgruntled owner thing when it comes time to do repairs. In other words : the old guys who drove right , and hit the service bay at 9am frequently , laughed all the way to the bank in the end. In fact , some of them bought the next car , and the next car , and the next car with the difference it made. What these lies all amount to : are lies designed to save enough money to pay for gas at par. Thanks to the compact car , lots of people are thinking that way. Sell the car once you know it's had enough of YOU , is NOT a good practice.
My M doesn't take wooden nickles , although it might take a sip of good wine when it gets the chance. Goodbye FORD , have a nice day GM , GET LOST compact canary - and see you at the finish line Chrysler , with bells on.
In fact , they are the only people I find that can spend all of their time with a service manual in their hand , and still mess up every single vehicle or owner who comes their way. Especially where they have extensive experience , it is not a surprise to see them running a vehicle where the stabilizers are absent or have been removed for convienience. Right away , they are OUT OF MY MIND. NOBODY , and I mean nobody could do or show that they have NO BRAINS that much - but they do. Why would I trust their winey attitude towards particulars? In other words , if they aren't getting their way , your car will suffer the consequences. And buying something they worked on , you might do just as good at the scrap yard.
Example : did you know that the part number on your bulbs is : 1157. WOW. Good thing you knew that cuzz I might have thought they were 1156 or some other number. Geez thanks alot , now I can consider myself DOT informed. NO stupid , work the car , not the number. And I suppose I have to explain WHY I would work the car and NOT the numbers? Don't you think anybody realizes YOU WORK THE NUMBERS?
If you rely upon the numbers used when you buy a car , chances are : the number you will be left with from these winners is : (0) at the end of the day. Good thing they don't stock your fridge.
That test can save you alot of time and money replacing parts.
FYI-Trans has not had a filter or fluid change ever as far as I can tell. I will get that scheduled unless the symptom above is going to end up with the word catastrophic in it.
My Chrysler 300 M (2003) has developed transmission issue that doesn't appear to be duplicated in this particular forum or anywhere else that I can find. The problem is somewhat intermittent and only occurs when the temperature outside is above 55 to 60°. When the temperature is above this temperature the transmission will occasionally slip into limp in mode after a prolonged drive and you decelerate to a stop. It appears to be related to sustained driving in fourth gear and the transmission being unable to downshift. Proceeding the limp in mode the transmission will have an audible clunk sound. Oddly, turning the car off and turning it back on clears the limp in mode and the car is able to be driven again.
The dealership replaced the solenoid pack and the valve body a year and a half ago and the problem seemed to be gone for "of course the length of the warranty work" one year. But started acting up just before the winter season. I persevered assuming that I only had a few months of driving before the transmission gave out completely. But then the winter months set in and the transmission performed flawlessly for the 3 to 4 months of extreme cold.
I dropped the pan a day ago and there was no extreme issues to report. The fluids fine, no debris in the pan beyond the normal. I did discover however that one of the screws in the valve body had been stripped assumedly by the dealer when the valve body was replaced. I'm very suspicious that this may be the cause of the problem. But I'm hoping that maybe somebody has had a similar issue and can shed some light on this for me.
Downshifts hard sometimes when slowing down. Then will start off with high rpms when driving off from that stop. I have to pull over and turn off engine, then restart car and it will run fine until the next occurance. Light is on on dash. Got it checked. Need solenoid. 600$ quote. I read some stuff online and thought it might of been input output sensor. Well just the input cuz the speedometer won't work with output being bad. But was planning on changing both at same time. But it ended up being solenoid