Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

eeterp

haha, I totally agree that a gain in one area almost always results in a loss in another.

I have the new cat-back exhaust from Bosal. I got a good deal from http://www.stranoparts.com/. It's not too bad to install (other than removing rusty bolts from your stock piping). Overall, you lose a tiny bit on the low end (I can't substanciate this with times, just feel) and gain on the top end. Passing at highway speeds is noticably better. It's supposed to add 5hp. One neat thing is that the muffler and all piping is polished. If I go to a show, I'll have to put mirrors under my car to show it off. LOL

Yes, it's definitely louder than stock. You'll hear mine if I can make it to MAPP. It's not too bad, though.

tomciviletti

I agree that one should be careful with modifications, but I have used Bosch platinum plugs [standard variety] in several vehicles for many years. I have had no problems and they look like new after many thousands of miles. Do they improve performance vs new oem plugs? Probably not.

chikoo

1.
do all the Protege ES owners have this exhaust resonance sound at 1500-2000 RPM when accelerating from a dead stop or is it only me?

2.
Is it only me who experiences this extremely stiff rides when the temp falls below 70F or is it everybody?

jstandefer

1) My '99 ES with 50,200 miles on it does not make any type of exhaust resonance noise at any RPM. I can't quite remember... do you have the 2.0L or 1.8L engine? I find the 2.0L to be less refined than the 1.8L, and I would not be surprised if you have the 2.0L and its making this noise. It seems to have plagued a good number of Pro5 owners. Try posting your question/concern in the Protege5 board.

2) I thought it was just my imagination and never mentioned anything about it. However, it seems the colder the ambient temperature is, the stiffer the car rides. I'm glad it's just not me... I'M NOT GOING INSANE!!!!

chikoo

how can you forget my car?
it's an '99 es (may 99). we were one of the first pro es owners.
so I have a 1.8L and it does resonate...making a numbing/droning sound under moderate to higher loads. I think I will have to pay the dealer a visit.

newcar31

Every single car I have ever owned makes more noises when its cold. People on this board have complained about the engine noise when started in the morning. That is completely normal, all of my cars with DOHC engines have made that noise. When it gets REALLY cold here in MN, cars will ride much stiffer and make tons of noises. Exhaust resonance is another matter and should be checked out at the dealer though. 1.8L is more refined? How could that be, they are the same engine with a different connecting rods. Also, I have read a post of yours where you say you were shocked at how much slower the 2.0L is than the 1.8L. Is there any proof of this, or are you just going by seat of the pants impressions? As far as I know, there hasn't been a magazine that has tested the ES 2.0L sedan 0-60.

vocus

I called my local Mazda dealer about the Racing Beat muffler, and they told me it would be $293.15 plus taxes. They also said it's considered a part and not an accessory. Why is it only $200 where you said but that much more here? Just curious. Let me know.

maltb

did you give them the part number I posted? That part number begins with 0000 which designates it as an accessory. Not sure what your dealer is up to, but there must be a few more in the area. Just get on the phone to several parts departments and ask them how much that part number is.

vocus

He told me it was considered a part, because it's a muffler. It's the same idiot I talked to last week, that didn't even know what an MP3 was. Jerk. I only called them first because that's where I bought my car and they will give me like a 10-20% discount for getting parts/accessories there. We had an argument about that on the phone too, him saying that only applied to accessories. I tell you, I think if I got one person at that service dept. with a brain, the shock would kill me.

Malt, and yes I did give them the exact PN you posted. Otherwise, he would have never found it. Considering he didn't even know the MP3 was made in this COUNTRY! Ugh.

sfrat

and you are going to pay these people to install this for you too, when they can't give you the correct information about the part? :-) Out of curiosity, and be in the same neighborhood, what dealer is this? Its not Russel is it? because that's where I bought my car.

Also, I've spent a lot of time in my car these last couple of weekends. The weekend before this past one, I drove up to Gettysburg and then to Lancaster to the outlets. This past weekend, I drove up to Gettysburg and home Friday night, and then again on Saturday, this time came back on Sunday morning. Throughtout the trips, the car was great, although I was getting a bit tired of being in the car, it was never uncomfortable. Speaking of uncomfortable, I'm so glad I finally checked the air pressure. Its so much more pleasant to ride in, but still stiff enough. I feel stupid for not checking it MUCH earlier. Everyone is also making me feel guilty about cleaning the car, I was going to take it to a place that does everything for me. My apt. complex has no communal hose to wash cars or anything, and it would be just a real pain to do it myself. I feel lazy paying someone to do it, but they do a decent job, and I don't have the time to drive home this week just to wash and clean the car.

Steve

vocus

I can install the muffler myself, it's not that hard. And it's Schafer & Strominger. My 1999 DX came from Russel though. They are a pretty cool dealer, but they tried to get cute when I asked for an extra key though. And they also wouldn't fix one mark on the front of my DX when I first got it, because I didn't notify them of the problem before delivery. Anyway. Never any problems with S&S, other than the moronic parts person. I never have to deal with him, so that's cool then. I am going to call around to other dealers and find out about the cost at other places.

ashutoshsm

May I suggest that this muffler discussion, which is an accessories and modification issue, please be moved to the Protege accessories & modification board?

I'm sure people (prospective buyers) go looking at car discussions and say, "Hmmm, the Problems board for the Protege has a butt-load of messages, maybe the Civic (yeesh!) is a better car!"
(of course, if they read through it carefully, they'd find most of these are not problem-related messages!)

Just a friendly suggestion, not trying to step on any toes!

mdaffron

Looking through the last several dozen posts here, I too see that they're not about problems as much as they are questions about performance or modifications. Let's keep this topic about PROBLEMS ONLY so it accurately reflects just how reliable these cars are!

Meade

P.S. -- I know this also wasn't a problem post!

jstandefer

After having driven several hundred Protege's, I am absolutely convinced the 2.0L models are slower than the 1.8L. Low-end power is not a problem with the 2.0L, but it is less willing to rev into the power-generating RPM ranges than the 1.8L. Is it just the connecting rods? Have they also changed the ECU for less throttle response and better fuel economy? The new 2.0L gets better fuel mileage than the 1.8L. How can that be with the same transmission gearing, extra weight, and larger displacement? Also, the 2.0L models' extra weight is definitely felt in the handling department, particularly left-right-left transitions where the 2.0L models don't respond as quickly. I have to commend the 2.0L models in that they have considerably less body roll, but that also hinders quick transitions as the suspension fights the natural movement of the vehicle.

Another thing I wish they did with the 2.0L models: add more sound insulation where it's needed--around the wheel wells and floor. They added extra sound insulation, but it sounds like the only thing they did was muffle the engine's wonderful growl, which just makes they road roar more noticeable. At least you could turn up the radio in the '99 and '00 models to blanket the noise, but the new radios in the 2001/2002 models is terrible compared to the previous models.

The new Protege's represent a better value than they did in '99 and '00. They are just in the natural course of virtually every vehicle design out there. As the years advance, they put on extra weight and lessen performance in the name of refinement. It will be interesting to see what Mazda does in the future with the Protege. Fuel economy has become a large issue again in the past few years, and the Protege is near the bottom of the pack compared to its competitors. Price is becoming a huge issue now that Hyundai and Kia have established some reliability. Hyundai sales have already surpassed Mazda a few years ago. What will Mazda do?

mdaffron

We're trying to hold this topic true to its title, "Mazda Protege Problems." Your philosophical piece is well-written, but it does not concern a problem with a Protege. I would respectfully recommend that you re-post your message, along with future messages of that theme, in the regular Mazda Protege topic.

We're doing this so we don't run the number of posts to this topic to such a level that shallow folks assume, without reading the actual posts, that Proteges are problem-prone!

Meade

speedypt

Mine has started to creak...did anyone have luck getting their's fixed?

Regards,

Pete

newcar31

I did on my 2001 ES. I don't know what they did though.

vocus

They lubricated the adjuster in mine and it stopped them from creaking. Try that at the dealer.

mdaffron

I solved that problem on a 1992 Protege and a 1994 B2300 by squirting some "white grease" (basically WD-40 with silicone in it) down into the pivot point between the seatback and cushion, and then working it in by holding up the recline lever and moving the seatback up and down a few times. I think the creaking was caused by the metal hinge down there, near the door, getting damp over time and rusting ever so slightly ... I could see the rust. The rust created a rough surface between the two pieces of metal that resulted in a creaking noise whenever your weight shifted ... like when you were accelerating or braking.

Meade

tnmom

#76 of 77 Mazda '95 Protege by tnmom Oct 15, 2001 (06:02 pm)
My daughter was driving on the X-way 200 miles from home and her 95 Protege (67,000 miles) just quit - the dash lights all came on and she was able to coast to a stop. The repair shop said the distributer didn't fire and the engine filled with gas and broke the oil seals. They have let it sit with oil and got it started after a couple of days. They say there is nothing wrong with the car and didn't really fix anything. Now we are scared to take it out of town? Any ideas? It has a new timing chain which was fine.

mdaffron

You say the repair shop said the oil seals were damaged, and then you say there's nothing wrong with the car and they didn't fix anything. Can you give us a little more detail about what happened? "All the dash lights came on" -- you mean every single one of them, like when you start the car? Did the engine overheat? Was there enough oil in the car? If your main oil seals broke, you lost all your oil and they'll need to be replaced ... not a cheap job. From the few details you've provided, however, it sounds to me like you've got an electrical problem -- possibly a bad ignition coil or a faulty distributor. Whatever the case, if your repair shop is telling you nothing's wrong, you need to find another repair shop.

Meade

maltb

Either the shop fed you a line or or you understood something different than what they said.

The one correct possibility is that the distributor ignitor could have an intermittent problem. I would suggest taking the car to another trusted shop or the dealer. The technician that looked at it should have pulled some codes from the car's computer for an indication of the problem. If he/she cleared the codes, I would ask if that person remembers what they were. With an intermittent problem, that's really all you have to go by.

mdaffron

Does my 2000 ES' 1.8-liter DOHC engine have that "shortcut" in the intake manifold that I've read about -- an extra passageway that opens up at about 3500 rpm? I've heard folks say it's there to boost performance, but I've never seen it confirmed anywhere. And while I have you, is there a site on the web that goes into detail about the engine in my car? I used to have a link to a Mazda Japan page that discussed the engines, but I could never figure out which one was mine -- and then I lost the link. Any help?

Thanks,

Meade

theparallax

I have a little article on Prototech about VICS (Variable Intake Control System) which is similar to VTEC I think. Thanks to Jerry for the article. It's in the "special features" section.

newcar31

You have variable capacity intake runners. They are not similiar to VTEC. VTEC is variable valve timing which is much more complicated. With VTEC, duration and lift is not constant, it changes.

iamz

I have found their are 2 TSB's on my 97 Protege LX with the 1.5 liter engine that refer to stiff A/T levers. They are; K00298 and ST00998. Does anyone know what the TSB's say as far as resolving this problem?

iamz

In regards to my post #625: Mazda informs me that there is a lower joint near the firewall that can corrode when exposed to road salt and the like. I will check it out and report back.

tnmom

)
The mechanic decided it was the distributor cap and replaced it and the spark plugs - here's hoping it doesn't happen again.

justjenny

Where would I find the oil sending unit on a '91 Mazda Protege?

maltb

It's in the cylinder head on the back of the engine next to the exhaust manifold. Hope that means something to you. If not, e-mail me.

katmk

Have been lurking on this site for a while and have enjoyed the comments. I got a 2001 Pro ES with automatic transm in August. I have loved it so far, except:

Last weekend, my yellow ABS light and my red brake warning light both went on when I started the car. I drove it about a mile to see if they would go off and in that time the yellow O/D light started flashing. By that time I decided to stop and call roadside asst. because the brakes were definitely soft and I was not going to drive on them like that. Also as I was waiting for the tow truck (my poor baby!) the remote keyless entry stopped working.
The dealer has yet to diagnose a specific cause but they have ordered wire harnesses, whatever those are. Has anyone had a similar problem?

windowphobe6

There is about a mile of electrical wiring in a modern automobile, or so it seems; the dealer evidently suspects that a few yards of it have gone bad.

A harness is a complete wiring subassembly: it attaches to the appropriate components. A lot easier than wiring each one individually.

jrdwyer

Has anyone had a hesitation problem with a protege 1.5 or other engine where during wet rainy weather the engine lags during acceletation. It feels like the engine is not getting fuel, but since it is only occurring on rainy days, I assume it is elecrical in nature. The sprak plugs and wires are new and the fuel filter has been changed according to plan. 135K, 95 LX 5 spd. Could I have a bad distributor cap? Or possibly a distributor going bad? Any help would be appreciated.

alcan

You're probably on the right track with the distributor cap. Since it carries about 20,000 volts to the plug wires it'll tend to give problems in damp weather. Suggest you replace the rotor while you have the cap off.

dgoodvin

My newly purchased 2000 LX is wonderful, but has a very stiff ride.

Someone mentioned lessening this problem with a change in tire pressure. All my tires are at 30psi.

What pressure works best to produces a softer ride?

Also, are there any other solutions to this stiff ride, such as changing shocks?

Thanks,

dg

sfrat

Factory recommends 32psi, its in the manual. I thought my car had a stiff ride, and finally after six months of ownership checked the air pressure to find it at 42, as set by the dealer. Deflated it to 32, and now the ride is much smoother, but the ES is has a stiffer suspension, and a short wheelbase, so there's no such thing as a "Buick" ride. But I suspect your air pressure is probably higher than it needs to be.

steve

mazdafun

Assuming your tire pressure is OK, then the easiest thing to do is change the tires. I think the factory-spec tires are in the "performance all-season" category.

Look for an all-season "touring" or "passenger" type tire to get a softer ride.

You could also "minus-1" your tires. This will increase the height of the tire's sidewall. If you have 65-aspect tires on 14-inch wheels, you'd go to 75-aspect tires on 13-inch wheels. Handling will go down (slower responses to turn inputs and more sidewall-rollover), but cushiness will go up.

Beyond that, you're talking lower-rate springs and shock absorbers (struts, in our case), but then you have to watch out you don't cause the suspension to "bottom out" when you hit bumps and potholes.

revka

If you're having a problem with your Mazda Protege5, or have insights for those with problems, please join us in this new discussion: Mazda Protege5 (Problems & Solutions). Thanks for your participation. ;-)

Revka
Host
Hatchbacks / Station Wagons / Women's Auto Center Boards

m1chael99

Hi all,

Several months ago, the check engine light came on my 1997 LX. I took it to a trusted mechanic, who looked at stored fault codes & said it was an evaporative emissions problem. In short, it cost me $75 to learn that my gas cap was loose. Sure enough, after he reset the warning light it stayed off. Two weeks ago I took the car in for its annual safety inspection in the AM and "coincidentally" the check engine light came on that afternoon. The car runs great, so I called my mechanic and told him that I was pretty sure that the light came back on because of the same thing. He said that I was most likely right, but told me that to reset it he would have to charge me another $75, because he still has to take the time & use his hardware to look at the store codes and reset the light. He told me some cars' computers do a diagnostic engine check every so many engine starts, and that in those cases the computer updates the warning light status. However, he does not know if my car does that. Does anyone out there know if the Protege's light will reset itself if the problem goes away? If it does not, do any of you know how to reset it without forking over $75? Your comments/suggestions are appreciated.
Mike H.

vocus

Guess paying that second $75 will teach you to make that gas cap click 3 times every time you put it back on, won't it?

newcar31

Jeez, your mechanic charges a lot. We had a code puller reset tool at Jiffy Lube when I worked there. We would reset check engine lights for free. "Take the time and look at the store codes and reset the light"? That takes less than a minute to do. Plug the code puller into the OBDII diagnostics port underneath your dash, press the "read" button, look at the number(s), then press "reset". Woila! Look the codes up in the book and they will give you a clue to what is wrong. OBDII was used on most cars after 1995. You could buy your own basic code puller and reset tool for about $150. It is REALLY easy. I'd do it for $75 all day long if I could.

protegextwo

>Mazda Protege5 Problems & Solutions: Here is the new place for owners to discuss their Mazda Protege5 problems and solutions. Thanks for your participation.;-)
Revka:
Host<

I just read the first 10 posts at this NEW discussion topic. EVERY issue/concern posted in that topic has been discussed RIGHT HERE in this discussion before. What a disservice to a new PRO-5 user. If he has a problem with his Protege and he ONLY checks for info in that topic? The PRO-5 and the PRO sedan are sharing 95% of the same parts.
I wonder if Revka_host can set me up with a new Town Hall discussion? I would like a place where owners of Emerald Mica 2000 PRO-ES's can hang out and discuss their problems and concerns with these rare and unique cars. Just Kidding! :-)

-Larry

gibber

I have a 1999 ES which now runs very roughly and the check engine(yellow) light is on. Could this be bad spark plug wires? (unfortunately, they appear to be only available at the dealer)

mazdafun

The ignition system would be where I'd start. Make sure the physical connections are OK before messing with the computer settings.

nikecar

yeah.. I'd be the second owqner....

on your cars, do you have little paint "splotches". We have some spots that look like the paint was stained... I have to do a full detail, but won't get to it til later in the month of Nov.

mdaffron

... Sounds exactly like what happened on my 1992 LX at about 36,000 miles after I didn't change my plug wires as was called for at 30,000 miles. But the wires for my '92 were available at NAPA. I haven't had to replace them on my 2000 ES yet -- but you might want to check with your local NAPA guys. If you find them there, let us know, OK?

Meade

alcan

Guessing and throwing parts at a car can turn expensive fast. Your car is OBD II compliant and the ECM has detected a fault, turned on the CEL, and stored a diagnostic trouble code. Have it scanned and the codes retrieved. That'll take you to the problem area. Btw, check the air intake ducting between the mass airflow sensor and throttle body for any cracks or damage.

mdaffron

... keeping up with recommended maintenance. How many miles are on the car?

Meade

gibber

All maintenance has been done up to 52000 miles. I was hoping to avoid a trip to the car doctor as I had an Escort GT which did roughly the same thing with bad wires. Its funny though, now the car runs fine(no changes) but the light is still on. What does the Engine light mean-just that a fault has occurred at some time in the past or does it always mean a continuing problem?

alcan

Check here for OBD II diagnostics FAQ's, including "How can the dashboard light be turned off":

http://www.epa.gov/otaq/obd-faq.htm