Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

maltb

BTW, what does Mazda use?

Mazda has a strict substance abuse policy.

...Ok, Bando, Mitsuboshi, Gates, Goodyear and others. Your Pro came with what was the best ($) choice at time of production but most likely Bando or Goodyear.

mdaffron

Best money could buy, or (more likely) best bang for the buck?

Or "yank for the yen," as it were?

Meade

jrdwyer

I replaced the original belts on my '95 LX 1.5 liter 2 1/2 years ago when the car was at 117K miles. The car now has 159K and the belts are still fine. I used Gates replacements.

On pinging, I think the 1.5 and 1.6 designs are susceptible to carbon buildup when used for around town, low speed driving. I know this because after 150 miles cruising at 75 my intermittent pinging disappeared. I don't think it is a problem with the O2 sensor. I'm not going to test it unless the problem becomes a constant. Anyway, the O2 sensor is in an awful location for the home mechanic to access (near the fuel pump which I vowed after the first replacement I would never do myself again).

I know of other older cars, friends late 80's Corolla, that also pings upon hard acceleration. This car is also used mostly around town.

I use 87 octane.

irishalchemist

jrdwyer,

Thanks for the info. I did get Gates belts from my nearby NAPA strore and plan to swap them this weekend.

As for the pinging, no problems for the past two weeks. I think that a) going back to my original gas station, b) adding a bottle of Techron to my last full tank, and c) driving 50 miles @ 75 on the highway a week ago have all helped a lot. The car, at least on the butt_o_meter, feels better and does not ping (on 89...).

The beast I'm having to deal with now is the wife's 626, which is pinging. Problem is, it's hard to get feedback from her regarding what the car is doing. She's a "goes forward when I press the gas, stops when I press the brakes" kind'a gal...

G.

jrdwyer

Irishalchemist,

I have to correct what I typed earlier about pinging. I said O2 sensor, but I meant EGR valve. I have changed both O2 sensors in the car and it's not that difficult a job. But getting to the EGR valve is the pain I was referring to. My Haynes manual describes pretty well how to check the valve, but I'm not looking forward to ever doing it.

Good to hear your Protege is ping free again.

irishalchemist

jrdwyer,

Thanks for clearing that up - I didn't recall an O2 sensor being close to the gas pump. Also, I think you mean that the EGR valve is close to the fuel filter, and yes, BOTH are a pain to get to. I think the fuel filter is even worse than the EGR valve (I think this last one is bolted on to the back of the engine block, right under the throtle body, right?). I don't understand why a part that has to be serviced routinely is so inaccesible.

In any case, if pinging was due to the EGR valve, wouldn't the car idle really bad? Just a thought... Anyway, I don't plan to check it on the Protege for now, although I may on the 626. Plus, the thing is nearly 200 bucks, so I would like to have proof before mucking with it...

G.

alcan

An EGR valve stuck open will cause a poor idle. Not opening at all, or passages blocked off with carbon, will result in higher combustion temperature which in turn causes spark knock or pinging.

irishalchemist

I wish I could take my cars to your shop! Thanks a lot for the info. I think that my 626's problems may be related to that. Not only it pings when it warms up, but the radiator fan is on more than I would like it to be. Maybe I'm completely off the mark, but it never hurts to be paranoid...

G.

jrdwyer

You're right, I meant fuel filter and not fuel pump which is in the tank.

One might think I'm on drugs or just an idiot by reading my last post. Actually I'm just an average home mechanic who needs to stop typing these messages at midnight when my brain is obviously not functioning.

mazdafun

OK, I've got one I'm at a loss about:

Last night, driving home after dinner, my '99 Pro LX with AT again (3rd time in 4 years) suffered a strong jolt while cruising on a smoothly paved street. It feels like hitting a raised edge of pavement (2-3in tall) head-on.

I can't figure what's causing it. It's almost as if the transmission tried to downshift, or the brakes got jabbed very strongly. It feels like it's coming only from the front end, which makes me suspect the transmission instead of the brakes, but I don't notice the tachometer moving (then again, I'm kind of distracted by the sudden jolt). I'm worried about a major component failure, or losing control of my car while in the middle of a lateral manuever or while driving on ice, snow or during a heavy rain.

Any suggestions about what could be the root cause? I strongly suspect the computer and software (based upon a runtime version of Windows). Could there be a sensor that's misfiring? I don't have ABS, but do have cruise control.

ashutoshsm

I'm sure others will report/suggest more useful stuff - but for starters, disconnect the battery for whatever period of time it needs to reset the learnt stuff in the computer, and let it relearn it all again.

Hopefully it really was something on the road - like a pothole.

Do a visual inspection of wheels/tires/shocks etc as well. Both ends (upper linkages?) - especially if you've added srtut or sway bars/braces.

And please be careful and observant while driving for the next few days!

theparallax

I have a 99LX with the SAME PROBLEM. Exactly as you are describing it too. It happens very rarely, about the same frequency as yours. I have no idea what's causing it but I just accept it as a quirk. The first time it happened, I thought I blew a tire out or I the engine just died...but the car kept running afterwards normally.

mazdafun

I read several complaints on the NHTSA complaints pages. Seems several other folks have experienced similar issues. One person did determine it was a faulty speed sensor on his transmission. Too bad he'd already bought a new transmission based upon his dealer's quick diagnosis. He's out thousands of dollars, when only a couple hundred at most would've solved it, if the tech were more thorough during the diagnosis part.

At least it's not changing or locking into different gears, but others have described it as hitting a pothole or getting rear-ended (it feels like that too). Before and after, my car behaves just fine (other than the rough jerk when I step on the gas after the car has just stopped or come to a near-stop...I've learned to delay and feather the throttle to avoid this). Dang.

I'm noting the dates it's occured. The funny thing is it's happened only on smooth roads so far. I even retraced my path the first time to check the pavement (back on Feb. 12 1999....my post to NHTSA is still there). And each time it happened I was cruising...barely had my foot on the throttle and only to maintain speed.

chikoo

when you felt the jolt?
I have also felt that jolt twice in 4 years when cruising on the highway. felt like the engine died and started off almost instantly. kind of like it forgot that it was running. I personally think it has to do with the electrical circuit or ECU programming.

kwarner

Just bought a 99 Protege and love it! Problem is, horn doesn't work. I've checked the fuses and they work. Can hear the relay click when pushing on the horn, so must be a connection problem with horn itself.

So how do you get to the horn? Hubby did a visual, but didn't take anything apart yet. Advice greatly appreciated!

mazdafun

Not the other two times.

I think a sensor is going bad, connection is going bad, or the ECU, TCM may need reprogramming (a new program, not just reset by disconnecting the battery).

I didn't have time this week for them to investigate (wish I still had my '89 323 about now), so I'll schedule next week. I want to go on the test drive with the tech so I can duplicate the other (I think related) issue: transmission "stumbling" when I step on the gas right after coming to a stop or to a near-stop, as in stop-and-go traffic.

mdaffron

I will. I was talking to him on the phone the other day and he said that's EXACTLY what happened to the tranny in his 2000 ES a few times prior to needing a new transmission.

Meade

mazdafun

Brrrrrr.

theparallax

is behind the front grille. The easiest way to get to it is to remove the front bumper, which isn't too hard at all. All you need is a screwdriver and socket wrench. Here's a how-to I've made showing how to remove it.

Front Bumper Removal

kwarner

Thanks, Parallax, for your help with the horn! Sounds like my husband has a weekend honey-do now.

mazdafun

I'd appreciate your elaborating on your experience with your failed transmission.

theparallax

speedypt

Removing the grille is 4 small bolts and two plastic "push" fasteners. Much easier than removing the entire front bumper IMHO.

That's what I did when I swapped out my horn for a Mercedes twin horn.

Regards,

Pete

mbs7

I don't know if any of the "ping crew" is still around, but I want to mention that the very persistent pinging I've had in my '99 LX has all but gone away. I tried everything, but in the end I *think* what made it stop was a LONG road trip around the western U.S. San Jose --> Salt Lake City --> Las Vegas --> Phoenix --> Fresno --> San Jose

Since that trip back in Oct 2002, I can hardly remember any episodes of pinging. I'm not positive about what made the pinging go away, but there seems to be a strong correlation between when I made this trip and when the pinging stopped.

I also want to mention that my car continues to be rock-solid in terms of reliability.

boggse

Did you ever try a bottle of Techron? That seems to do the trick for a lot of [pre-VVT] Miata owners with the 1.8L. A good long trip every now and then is always good for the engine.

irishalchemist

Well, I finally had some time to replace the belts on my 96, 1.5 DX last Saturday. Except the initial figuring out of the lication of the locking botls for the PS pump, everything went smooth. The old PS/AC belt was so bad that the rubber had shinned the bottom of the pulley grooves, and was all glazed and shinny itself. The alternator belt was not so bad, but not great either. They were the original belts (~60K miles). Anyway, the metallic buzzing noise I had posted about a month or so ago is now gone, so I guess that was it. The one thing that has not gone away is a metallic whirring noise I get when I get to high RPM, right before I shift gears. My guesses are alternator or water pump bearings. If it is the WP bearing it will have to wait until I get the timing belt replaced, but I think the alternator bearing should be easy to do (I almost had the alternator out while changing the belts), so I'll give it a try first.

Now the question: Where can I get specs for the alternator bearing withouth having to take the old one to a shop for comparison? I looked in the web to no avail...

TIA,

G.

mbs7

Yes, I tried a bottle or two of techron and it made NO difference -- the engine just went on pinging.

mazdafun

At least they didn't charge me for that diagnosis.

I also couldn't duplicate the shudder this morning with the service adviser in the passenger seat. My car's AT behaved perfectly fine.

At least I logged the complaint into their database on my car. I'll just have to watch out for that "rear-ending" sensation and alert them ASAP the next time. I think I'll post my complaint into NHTSA's database too.

2002protegelx

When it was new, my 2002 automatic Protege had really good throttle response. I would just touch the gas peddle a little bit and the car would take off like a scalded cat.

Now after 10,000 miles, I have to really step on the gas to make the car go. The engine doesn't seem to rev as quickly as before and the automatic transmission sometimes make clunking noises when coming to a stop. The shifts also don't seem to feel as smooth as before.

I think it might be the automatic transmission acting up. Would changing the ATF fix the problem?

dinu01

I would take it to the dealer and ask them to run a diagnostic on the tranny.

Note the situations when it acts up and report it to the dealer: cold/hot engine, warm/cold/humid day, electrical load on the car. The more info they have the better. The tranny is covered for 5yrs I believe so since yours is fairly new, if it's something wrong with it, they'll fix it for free.

There's no point to spend $ now to change the AT fluid - if there's something wrong with it and they need to fix your tranny that $ spent on the flush is wasted. I did change mine at 48.000kms (30.000miles) along with the coolant and will continue to do so as a preventive measure since we plan on keeping the car for a long time.

Good luck and let us know how this develops!

Dinu

irishalchemist

Hi All,

My 96 1.5L 5spd is, I believe, a little hesitant. It may be that I am imagining things, but I feel that in the mornings, with the engine cold, I get a very light hesitation while I step on the gas in second gear. It is very minor, not hard buckling or mis-firing. It's like someone would push against the car here and there, and after a couple of miles everything is fine. It's so minor that my wife told me I'm paranoid, as she does not feel anything.

As I said, I may be imagining things (very likely...). Plus, I have changed everything but PCV and fuel filter on the car not more than 2 months ago. One thing I was fearing was the plug wires: I replaced the cables but left the old plugs in for a while, and then I changed the plugs - Could old plugs (0.055" gap) screw up new cables in that short a time (1 month, 500 miles)?

Other ideas I had was a dirty MAF, PCV, and fuel filter, which I will do in a week or so. Anyone has felt this?

TIA,

G.

chikoo

I know your problem. Definitivly.
It is not the AT.
The intake manifold gasket has developed a minor leak. Because of that, power is lagging and the AT makes a clunking sound because the vacuum is "just" out of whack.

Take it to your dealer and mention to him the intake gasket manifold issue has developed on my car. Mazda techs know about this problem.

toddhh

My 99 Protege ES (89K miles) has recently started showing problems that the dealer can't solve. After anywhere from 15-30 minutes of highway driving, the O/D light begins to flash and the speedometer drops to zero (car feels like it's driving normally). After 60-90 seconds, the O/D light goes off, the speedometer jumps back up, and the trans jerks into a lower gear (tach almost redlines) and then goes back to normal. Eventually the check engine light also came on. Took it to a transmission specialist and the trans checked out fine. Took it to the dealer and was told I needed a new speedometer ($650 job). Replaced speedometer and problem persists. Let the dealer have the car for 2 days, but of course, they could not recreate the problem. Has anyone experienced or heard of anything like this? I'm desperate. Thanks!

boggse

Sounds similar to a problem I had with my Jeep Cherokee. They rewired the gauge cluster to fix that. If your transmission is getting involved as well, it may be the PCM (Powertrain Control Module).

according2me

Todd, you said the check engine light came on. What code did it set. Always ask service personel for the error code.

There is a "check engine" forum on Edmunds, but you need the code for the experts to assist you.

mazdafun

One person experienced similar issues. It was a failing speed sensor on the AT. Too bad he had a new transmission put in before he found the real source of the problems.

chiyo

I have 2002 LX auto with ABS, and every time I break, I seem to hear this grinding or grip noise. The noise is not sharp or squeaky. Is this normal? (I bought the car used so I dunno if the car had this noise initially.)

TIA.

mvaldivi

... have a 98 Sephia, very-very similar to the older Gen Proteges (similar engine, same man-tranny, similar performance, same problems, same bugs...). Anyway, I had that bearing-grind type noise coming from the front-right side of the engine compartment, only above 3000 RPMs in 3rd, 4th and 5th gear. I was 100% sure it was the alternator bearing gone (belt happened to feel excessively tight too). So I replaced the alternator (Napa: $135) and belts (Kia: $45), only that it didn't fix anything. So, I thought it had to be the water pump. I was ready to waste another 2 Benjamin-Franklins on this one. I like to work on my cars, but you gotta know when to give up. I took the car to my old mechanic. He replaced the exhaust-resonator (it was clogged) for $50. That fixed the problem. And that front-right noise? It was caused by back pressure caused by the crummy resonator. Which also happened to be the cause for poor mileage. What else is this thing similar to the Protege? Oh, Syntec oil is poison for those manual-trannies. Good luck there!

ram22

I also get the grinding noise when I engage/disengage the brake very slowly when the car is in drive/reverse on my 2001 Pro LX auto. Doesn't happen on neutral gear on a downhill. Lots of people on Edmunds have the same noise and it is somewhat normal and supposed to be due to :
1.
asbestos content in the brake pads (use premium pads to reduce the noise)

2.
All auto trans do this noise

3.
De-glaze the brakes or something

I haven't asked my dealer about it yet.

alternator

I'm sure that asbestos has not been allowed in brake linings for several years now.

jrdwyer

My 1995 Protege LX 5 spd. with 160K miles is making a funny noise. Sort of a pop type sound. I have driven it at slow speeds with the windows down and when I turn the wheel I notice the pops occuring every turn or two of the tires. I have also noticed the noise right as I come to a stop at lights. Now this car has been making the typical clicking noise from a CV joint since 70K miles, but the boots are all fine so I just ignored it. Is this more noticable pop or click sound telling me the end is near for one or both of my CV joints? And are aftermarket CV joints better or worse than Mazda CV joints. Thanks.

stockmut

Hi,

I have a lot of water sitting in my passenger side floorboard and believe it is caused by a clogged AC drain line or something similar. The water just sits in the car(ie its not draining back out of the car) and it hasn't rained in several days yet the water keeps coming back so I ruled out the typical door/windshield/trunk leaks.

Does anybody know how to check the AC drain hose and how its leaking back inside even if it is clogged? This is for a 1999 Protege ES 5 speed.

Thanks!

NcGuy

tomciviletti

Has anyone changed a door lock cylinder ['99 pro es]? The weather seal broke off and lodged in the tumbler assembly.

alcan

Door Locks
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the inner door panel and remove the inner door screening.
If the locks are power, disconnect the power lock controller from the lock assembly.
Remove the door lock mounting screws and disconnect the linkage. Remove the lock assembly from the door.
Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Tighten the door lock mounting screw(s) to 37-55 inch lbs. (4.2-6.2 Nm).

mdaffron

I don't have my Protege in front of me right now (LOL) but I do know that the drain line comes out of the firewall just above where the passenger's toes would be. I believe you can reach up under the glovebox against the firewall and find the rubber tube. The tube in my 1992 LX got clogged after a couple of years, and I was able to fix it simply by grabbing it and giving it a good squeeze along the length of it that I could reach. This broke up all the nasty sludge that had accumulated in it and allowed it to drain. You probably can remove it yourself if you've got some patience and a flashlight. Let us know if you figure it out!

Meade
2000 ES
2002 Protege5 (wife)

mazdafun

If you have a vacuum cleaner with a hose, you can use some duct tape to get a good enough seal to try to suck out the grunge. You could also get the micro vacuum attachments (for cleaning out the insides of computers and such) with adapters to fit most household vacuum hoses. I've got a little can vac that can also blow (attach the hose to the exhaust), which I do to the hole in the firewall. There's a little tube out there that bends downwards.

irishalchemist

I did it on my 626. Pretty much what alcan describes. I also think the drum is held by a convoluted clip around it (i.e., there is a bracket bolted to the door, and the clip holds the drum to the bracket). Make sure to note the position/direction of the clip before you take it apart. I didn't and ended up doing the job twice. And although easy, you have to work your tools around the holes in the door frame, and it's a pain in the neck. The drum has a metal cap that slides off, and after that the spring and remains of the flap will fly out. Try to figure out the orientation of the spring also (again, 1/2 an hour to find the damned, microscopic, spring in the grass, plus 1/2 an hour of trial an error in my case...).

It took me 2 hours in a damp, cold, windy day. I also used a Protege flap instead of the plastic one on the 626. They sell you the flap for the Protege ($1.5), but only the whole drum for the 626 ($50, plus re-keying...).

Hope this helps,

G.

tomciviletti

Thanks for the tips. I'll see if I can get the broken flap out. A buck and a half sounds better than $50

stockmut

Meade, Mazdafun,

I dropped the glove compartment and looked where you indicated and it appears that the drain tube is "integrated" into the Cooling unit and thus I can't squeeze the tube or do anything from the inside to clear the clog... I was able to verify that this does appear to be the problem though because with the glove box pulled it was really apparent that the water is leaking into the absorbent liner under the carpetting. The liner was soaked and because the carpet is rubber on the bottom you don't notice the water at all until it builds up enough to start seeping out of carpet slits that are next to the underseat heating ducts. Unfortunately by that time you have around an inch of water sitting in your floor pan.

I then started searching for the drain tube from the engine side and am able to see it(it is probably a 1/2" diameter rubber tube that only sticks out of the firewall about 1/2"). My problem now is to figure out how to reach it. I can't get my arms down to it from above so will probably try to either jack it up and see if its reachable from the bottom or rig some type of extension on my shop vac and thread it down to the drain pipe.

Will let you know if I successfully unclog it.

Thanks for all the help!

NcGuy

sglator

Hi everybody,
1+ month sometimes I have on my Pro/2000 cracking sound while turning stering weel from left to strieght position on low speed. Techn from dealer drove the car but didn't hear. They checked the car and found bearing failure. Replaced the bearing ($216) but nothing is changed. Is anybody experienced such problem?
David