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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    Have you checked your exhaust piping leading up to the muffler? If there is a crack or rusting I would think gas may be escaping. The reason you don't smell it when you are moving is because fresh air is being pumped into the compartment to diffuse the smell. It's good that you are taking it into the shop.
  • benoit6benoit6 Member Posts: 3
    Well I took it to the shop, and they said that they didn't see or find any gas leaks nor did they see any holes in the exhaust. They did however admit that when they detached my fuel line to clean the fuel injectors ( a service that was performed awhile ago) they said some of the fuel probably sprayed up near the window where the car vents pull air from. He then stated he sprayed some refresher or cleaner in the A/C to get rid of the smell. I will see if this works.
  • chump2chump2 Member Posts: 8
    i am going to attempt changeing the rear pads on my 2001 protogeg ES that has rear disc brakes , i see that the emergencey brake is attached to the rear brakes can anybody tell me if there is anything special i need to be concerned about ?
    thanks
  • henzhenz Member Posts: 3
    Not really....just un do the cable from the clip....you'll see it....other than that,..just do basic things like supporting caliper w/ wire to prevent strain on hoses...Also, you can't use C clamps to push the piston back....you have to remove cap bolt on back of caliper to access the gear to back off the piston...it requires an allen wrench..not sure what size. Reassemble in reverse order. Pull on the e-brake lever..it will feel very loose @ first..but will reset itself ( at least in my case ). Hope this helps. Jim
  • chump2chump2 Member Posts: 8
    thanks alot , some one had mentioned not to push the piston in with the c-clamp
    so this will help .thanks again . this was my first post but i look at the site quit often just to see what problems people have more so to see the respnses
  • giacomodgiacomod Member Posts: 9
    thanks for the suggestions, to the forum,i have new updates for my car.
    my car is finally repaired,i took me a while from 2 different mazda dealers,that they could not find the right problems,but instead they skrew you and ,change different parts,it serves me and anyone as an experience to get different estimates before you take to any dealer,and before you can do some research ,i finally find an honest meccanic and someone that understands cars, my all problem was not the idle egr valve , or maf sensor,or idle control valve, ,altough i did replaced all of them,compression was good,and clean of trottle helped a lot,
    it was the timing belt and water pump that was leaking,and causing a misfire,replace the timing belt ,replace the water pump,seals,valve gasket,coil and rotor ,plugs and wire for the second time,new hoose for the radiator,and the car is finally working like a charm,it took me more money to fix it,but half of the dealer estimate,and it was all done in one day.again thanks to the forum and help,it open my eyes and learned a lot from this experience. :)
  • benoit6benoit6 Member Posts: 3
    Okay, I still have the exhaust smell. Also, I'm experiencing idle surges on cold starts. The RPMS will jump from 1000 to 2000 back down to 500. Now what is going on? I'm suspecting the Idle Air Control valve may be faulty, but I don't know. I'm going to take the car back to the dealer. Has anyone else experience this issue?
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    I'm experiencing idle surges on cold starts
    I wonder if this may also be related to the car's emission control systems (e.g. EGR or PCV valves). Too bad the shop did not spot this while they had the car.
  • downtubedowntube Member Posts: 43
    Look for a vacuum leak. Any leak downstream from the MAF sensor will screw up the air/fuel ratio. It will affect idle the most.

    Look at the accordian pipe between the air cleaner and the intake manifold. Sometimes they develop cracks.
  • sir_dudesir_dude Member Posts: 2
    I own a 2000 protege es 1.8L with under 45k miles. I bought brand new. It's developed an engine vibration after I start it. It happens when the engine is completely cold, I turn on the fan for defrost and when the defrost kicks on the vibration starts and when it kicks off the vibration stops. Also, the transmission has to be in gear, not in Park or Neutral. As the engine warms up to normal operating temp, the vibration almost completely disappears. Has anyone else experienced this problem?

    This is my 2nd protege and has been a great car.
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    I turn on the fan for defrost
    What do you mean? What are you "defrost"ing?
  • sir_dudesir_dude Member Posts: 2
    The frost from off of the windows.
  • 302boss302boss Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2000 Mazda Protege and it recently failed a CA smog test. The failure was a MIL OBD failure to communicate. In this case, there was nothing wrong with the car, computer or wiring. The battery had been replaced a couple of days before the smog test. The computers memory of recent driving conditions was erased when the battery was removed. The failure was because the computer was not ready to be tested. The car needs to be driven an unknown number of trips of various lengths, speeds and conditions and the computer will store this information. My mechanic said to drive it as much as I can and bring it back and he will check to see if it is ready to be tested. When it is ready, take it back to the smog test center for retest. This is one of the strangest things I have ever heard about a modern automobile.
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    The car needs to be driven an unknown number of trips of various lengths, speeds and conditions and the computer will store this information.

    Interesting. I did not realize that the test used the history from the car's computer.

    In Ontario Canada we have a Drive Clean Emission program that measures the emission systems of the car every second year. The thirty minute test involves measuring the output at idle and 40 km/hr of hydrocarbons (HC), carbon monoxide (CO) and nitrous oxide (NO) from the tailpipe. Mechanics recommend that prior to testing the car be warmed up by driving it on the highway for a half hour or more. One way of ensuring positive results is to have a fuel system cleaning done before the test.
  • downtubedowntube Member Posts: 43
    This is one of the strangest things I have ever heard about a modern automobile.

    Welcome to the wonderful world of On Board Diagnostics. The complexity of the OBD software in your car's computer rivals that of the actual control system it's monitoring.

    Some monitors only run on cold start. Some only run once a certain temperature is reached, and engine is operating at a certain speed and torque output. It may take several drive cycles over several days to get all monitors to run enough to satisfy the smog test.
  • primemoverprimemover Member Posts: 4
    My Protege, w/ 94,000 miles on it had a radiator leak that caused an engine overheating. I replaced the radiator and while I was inspired, I replaced the timing belt and water pump. That is when my problems began. I was using the Haynes Repair Manual (#61015) and the timing marks illustration for the 1.6L is wrong. I finally got the right information and put things back together. It starts and does not display any check engine errors (no CEL and I do have a code reader, but no codes are stored.) If I start the car and do nothing else, the engine will die very quickly. If I play with the throttle, I can keep the car running but have to continually move the throttle or it will die. The engine runs rough and it is not burning the fuel completely. The plugs (new) are now coated with soot. I could not keep the car running long enough to get it fully warmed up (radiator cap was still cool) but I checked the wet/dry compression while the engine was still kinda warm.

    Dry: #1 140 #2 140 #3 145 #4 150
    Wet:#1 155 #2 145 #3 170 #4 160

    I checked for vacuum leaks and found none. I cleaned the throttle body and the EGR valve, which had much carbon. This car does not have a distributor and I have ohm'ed out the crankshaft and the cam shaft sensor. They check fine.

    I wonder: While I am confident that the (DOHC) timing marks are lined up properly (Intake "I" (left) at 12 O'clock and the line @ 3 O'clock, Exhaust "E" (right) at 12 O'clock and the line at 9 o'clock) - with the #1 piston @ top dead center, I wonder if my timing belt (new) has become stretched with all the putting on/taking off.

    Please post suggestions / theories about what could be the cause of the no idle/rough running. I welcome _all_ ideas. Thanks in advance!
  • hooker321hooker321 Member Posts: 13
    Sounds like my problem! My car is still in the garage from Jan 09'. It overheated blew the radiator and left me stranded 15 miles away in -30 degree weather in the middle of corn fields! I Did find out my valves were shot from trying to make it while over heating. I had the head serviced for 375 bucks along with all new gaskets 100 bucks only to have now what sounds like the same problem as you. It will start then die start then die! it did run once until it came to temp I was like cool I will drive it but as soon as I put it in reverse it died! then didnt restart for an hour or so.... I have a fuel pressure tester coming to check fuel pressure while it starts n dies. I am hoping to get this junk running so I can scrap it! I hate mazda! I hate computer controlled cars! Never again will I buy a car that depends on a computer! I bought a 1986 ford 4x4 that Im converting to mechanical fuel pump and carburator controlled with a gas tank in the bed. No more depending on computers for me! I dont know what I was thinking buying this junk mazda! If you have any advice I could use it and I am glad to be of help if I have been! ...Robert
  • downtubedowntube Member Posts: 43
    What you describe sounds exactly like improper timing. Maybe time to take it to a professional to get the timing right.
  • hooker321hooker321 Member Posts: 13
    Pictures of correct factory timing marks from a car is all we need to see if we are idiots. Someone please take your valve cover off, put it at top dead center, and snap a picture of the cams and gears. How can we do any work when the book is telling us to do something wrong or telling nothing at all for the 1.6L. Its a joke. All we need is a never toyed with 1.6L picture with the timing marks and cam gears placement at TDC. If its correct then we need to look elsewhere. Like I am with buying a fuel pressure guage that goes above 30 lol. Just waiting for it to arrive hoping this week!
  • cubbygrl17cubbygrl17 Member Posts: 1
    Hey...not sure if you're still monitoring this discussion or not, but I thought I'd give it a try anyway...

    I signed up for this car blog thing because I read your March 15th post, and the exact same thing has been going on with my car for the past 3 or so years. I've dealt with it because it has been so random, and I usually can get where I need to go, but recently it has gotten to the point where I am not sure if I'll get from point A to point B anymore and I'm sick of it! (In fact, this past weekend I also had to drive back from a trip I started at 55 MPH and then get a rental.)

    The only differences that I can notice is that mine happens during any speeds (but it's worst on the highway), and I didn't have a cylinder misfire (not quite sure what that is, though). My check engine light has never come on, and the computer codes show nothing.

    Sorry, I know there was a big long discussion after your initial post, but could you possibly recap in very simple terms for me? Was your problem ever totally fixed? I am not very car savvy, but mine is currently at a mazda dealership being tested, so I am just wondering what you found out.

    Thanks a ton!! I appreciate any insights!
  • giacomodgiacomod Member Posts: 9
    Hello
    after i had gone to the dealer i had so many things done and actually it was not what it seems it was ,i have a mazda protege 97 ,this car had so many things done,after i had all this things done my real problem was the timing belt and the water pump,but i also did a completely tune up (coil -rotor- o ring-cap plugs-wires-
    clean fuel injectors replace one , maf sensor-replace connectors-air filter-check all the water and air hose from the radiator and egr valve and fuel line-also i had a new egr valve-a new idle air control valve ,fuel filter,fuel regulator, clean the intake manifold,so many things before i had the timing belt and the water pump.so i will suggest before you try to do so many of this things you should have an honest meccanic check it out and give you an estimate,also if you are not getting enough power it could be a transmission issue and fuel pump issue,or related to fuel,guessing can be expence try to minimize the real problem,one by one,i started that the computer tells me it was an egr valve and it follows by other but the computer was wrong so many times, it give an engine light because there was other real problems causing it ,anyway good luck.
  • brian374brian374 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2002 Protege LX with 63,000. Recently while driving, it will not stay in overdrive. Pops out, and I let off the gas and it slips in, put on the gas, slips out again. Does not do any slipping in any other gear, just overdrive. Any ideas? AAMCO wants to rebuild the entrie transmission, but I strongly believe this is not the case because they are not certain where the problem sits. I'm thinking something electrical?? It doesn't have many miles to warrant a total transmission rebuild.
  • jenni81jenni81 Member Posts: 3
    Hi,

    I'm looking into buying a 2002 or 2003 Mazda Protege with around 70,000 miles to get to around while I'm still in college. This will be my first car so I would appreciate some advice on the following:

    - Is there much difference in reliability between the 2002 and 2003 models?

    - Are there things in particular I should look for when I go check out the car? I've read here about the EGR valve, anything I can check for related to that? Any other problems?

    - I know it depends on a lot of factors, but overall would you say it is a good purchase that won't give me too much trouble?

    Since this will be my first car I am a little nervous about getting a lemon, so I would really appreciate your input.

    Thanks.:D
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    Is there much difference in reliability between the 2002 and 2003 models?
    No, there is no big difference in reliability.

    Are there things in particular I should look for when I go check out the car? I've read here about the EGR valve, anything I can check for related to that? Any other problems?
    Rust around the wheel wells can be a problem. Also, check the state of the disc brakes to see that they do not need replacement.

    I know it depends on a lot of factors, but overall would you say it is a good purchase that won't give me too much trouble?
    Overall, a reliable car. Check Consumer Reports for their recommendations on used cars. To be sure the car has been well maintained ask the seller if they have all the service records and have the car checked at a mechanic of your choosing. Be wary of sellers who do not want to do this. If a seller claims the car is fine they should feel confirdent about it passing this test. Your mechanic will also provide valuable information about items that may need to be addressed in the near future (such as worn tires) so that you can reduce the surprises after your purchase.

    Final words about Proteges: great cars!
  • downtubedowntube Member Posts: 43
    At 70k there are some things you want to know

    - How does the transmission perform? Drive it on the highway, noting how the transmission shifts as you accelerate onto the highway and how it downshifts as you decelerate. If you detect anything rough or jerky, or if it fails to stay in overdrive while at speed, stay away.

    - When you turn the key on, the Check Engine light will come on momentarily as a test. Make sure it really comes on - otherwise it may have been tampered with. Also make sure the light goes out once the engine is started.

    - Pay careful attention to how the car idles in Park, and in gear while stopped. It should idle smooth and not too fast. EGR problems, IAC valve problems, or vacuum leaks will cause idle problems.

    - If it has power windows, make sure they all roll up and down.

    - Drive slowly over a speed bump or similar, and listen for clunks in either the front end or back. Rear endlinks aren't too expensive to have replaced, but front ones are.
  • jenni81jenni81 Member Posts: 3
    Really, really good advice there. Thanks a lot downtube and autonomous.

    To clarify, you mentioned,
    Pay careful attention to how the car idles in Park, and in gear while stopped
    I assume this is for an automatic transmission? If so, then for a manual does the same apply when idling in neutral?

    Also if anyone else has some other input it would be appreciated.
  • downtubedowntube Member Posts: 43
    Yes, the same for a manual transmission in neutral. Most people prefer an automatic (not me), so I assumed that's what you were considering.
    In either case, a vacuum leak will generally cause the engine to idle too low to the point of stalling, then overcorrect and rev too high, then drop down start dropping too low. The air/fuel ratio is wrong and the computer can't compensate. Typically they will run fine when not idling, when the amount of air leaking is small compared to the total airflow.

    BTW, I love my protege. I've been looking for another one for my kids to drive.
  • stmyersstmyers Member Posts: 7
    I have a 2003 protege es with only 74k miles and I just replaced some belts and the radiator (due to a crack). But since replacing the raidator, my car will not hold coolent and has over heated less than 200 miles from having it back. The mechanic Ive been taking it to says he can not find anything wrong with it. What caused your radiator to have a crack in it? Im only worried because I do not know what other damage this is doing to my car. I do have an extended warrenty, but if i dont know what the problem is, what am i to do! :confuse:
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    But since replacing the raidator, my car will not hold coolent and has over heated less than 200 miles from having it back.

    Is the coolant leaking to the ground (and not into the engine)?

    Were the hoses leading to and from the radiator replaced?

    Were the clamps holding the hoses checked?

    Have you considered going to another garage for a second opinion?
  • stmyersstmyers Member Posts: 7
    I bought my car new in 2003, Ive kind of have had problems with it form day one. but nothing as major as now. My belts broke on my car so I had the car towed to the mechanic and they replaced the belts. I couple weeks later my car over heated on me so I took it back. It turns out my radiator had a leak/crack in it. I had them replace it a mazda radiator and had them pressure test the hoses and they said it was all good. A couple of weeks later while I was driving my over heated on me . (it had only been 200 miles since getting the radiator replaced) I took the car back the the mechanic and they said they could not find anything the matter with it. They checked the hoses again and the gaskets. they still said there was nothing wrong with it, but it is not holding coolant. I will fill the over flow up and a day later it is empty. I need help. I am in college, therefor i would like to hold on to my car for another year, but with things happening Im worried.
  • stmyersstmyers Member Posts: 7
    I have NOT seen any coolant on the ground.

    No the hoses were not replaced, they pressure tested them and there were no leaks.

    I will ask about the clamps.

    one of my customers owns a shop who customizes cars and he said to bring it by.

    Did i mention i live in texas!! Could that have anything to do with anything (the heat?)
  • jenni81jenni81 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks again.
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    I have NOT seen any coolant on the ground.
    If it is not leaking below, then where is the coolant going? How often do you have to replace the coolant?

    No the hoses were not replaced, they pressure tested them and there were no leaks ...one of my customers owns a shop who customizes cars and he said to bring it by.
    Ask your "customer" to take a look at the hoses to see if they still appear usable (no bulges, cracks, softening ...). The hoses and radiator in my 2002 Protege5 are still in tip top shape (knock on wood).

    Did i mention i live in texas!! Could that have anything to do with anything (the heat?)
    Yes, your car is obviously using its cooling system more frequently than someone living in a cooler climate. Also, driving in congested traffic can be taxing. But, your car's radiator is made for that purpose and should be working properly.
  • downtubedowntube Member Posts: 43
    Did they replace the radiator cap when they replaced the radiator?

    The coolant is going somewhere. Either blowing out the expansion tank overflow when you're driving, or out a leak when driving, or into the cylinders.

    If the radiator cap is not operating properly, it will let coolant flow out into the overflow tank at a lower pressure than intended. This will overflow the tank and spill out on the ground when the engine is hot. As the engine cools, the coolant in the overflow tank will be sucked back into the engine.

    The same thing could be happening with a properly operating cap, if your engine is overheating.

    If it's going into the cylinders, your exhaust will smell like antifreeze. Blown head gasket or cracked head.
  • daimonpauldaimonpaul Member Posts: 1
    Hi everyone -- hopefully someone can give me some advice. I'm driving a 1995 Mazda Protege which has some engine noise under load and a loss of power. It's been getting progressively worse over the years, and it's now to the point where I have almost no acceleration at all, and I almost have to floor it just to maintain highway speeds (especially if running the A/C). There's also a loud noise coming from the front of the car when I accelerate -- my dad calls it a "birdcage" noise, but it sounds like some kind of rattling. All the mechanics I've taken it to over the years have just called it engine ping and suggested I use some fuel injector cleaner, but that obviously hasn't helped. It doesn't make the noise while idling -- only while pressing down on the gas pedal, and the noise gets louder as I press harder.

    I'm pretty sure it's engine issues, but I don't know exactly what it is. Does anyone have advice? Thanks in advance!
  • krzykj1krzykj1 Member Posts: 3
    Searching for answers- HELP PLEASE ! I have 2000 Mazda Protege ES that came standard w/ a 1.8 ltr engine. I bought this car used & love it. Problem : While changing the timing belt & parts, I have found out that the engine was changed to a 2001 2.0 ltr ES. I keep coming up with Engine Codes will not reset readings, every time I try to have an emissions inspection done. Have gone through MUCH grief with the state of NC & quite a few insp. stations. What, if anything can be done ? I'd like to keep it & drive it.
  • downtubedowntube Member Posts: 43
    You can take to to most any major automotive store, and they will scan the car at no charge and tell you exactly what codes are coming up. They usually even have some suggested causes for those codes. Do that, then post the codes on here.
  • krzykj1krzykj1 Member Posts: 3
    Not coming up with any codes. It's reading "Codes Will Not Reset".
  • nzwellingnzwelling Member Posts: 1
    Hey everyone!

    I have a problem with my 1994 protege. It was working fine for a long time, but I recently took a 120 mile road trip, and now it's... not working so well. The engine stutters and feels like it's not giving any power. This seems to happen mainly at 1st 2nd and 3rd gears - things seem to work okay at higher gears... although the problem does seem to be getting worse. I drove it to the store and back to test it out, and I heard what seemed to be a metallic grinding or scraping sound (maybe) coming from the bottom of the car.

    From what I've read on this forum and some other places, it sounds like it might be the clutch slipping. What do you guys think? Futhermore, I am currently 120 miles away from home - if the clutch is slipping, is the car okay to drive for that long? (uphill - along I-40 from hickory to asheville, nc, in case anyone is interested)

    Thanks in advance. I would really appreciate any help thrown my way here...

    oh yeah: the car has 170k+ miles on it. don't know full vehicle history (bought it used a couple months ago), although title check showed no salvage, etc. stuff. No problems to this point, except an axle that had to replaced (front right).
  • mnfmnf Member Posts: 405
    Can anyone help i am looking to replace a burned out OD dash light on a 2000 Mazda Protege DX. There are no shifting issues or blinking of the light it looks like the bulb JUST burned out. Thanks for the help>>>

    MNF .
  • gogojoe54gogojoe54 Member Posts: 1
    I had a bad shimmy problem for a while (bad tires) and the car got shook up pretty good with a lot of vibration. Something shook loose in the steering column area affecting the instruments. when the lights are turned on the tailights will come on sporadically. If you wiggle the light switch, sometimes the tailights come on--sometimes they go off. How do I go about fixing this? I can hear a switch going on and off when I jiggle the lights arm.
  • oldman15oldman15 Member Posts: 43
    After replacing plugs, my 03 P5 is now idling at 800+ RPM vs 500.
    Is it possible to manually adjust the idle speed?
    Thanks
    O15
  • downtubedowntube Member Posts: 43
    You don't want to do that.

    Idle is controlled by the ECU (computer), not by a screw like in the old days. If the idle is too high, then something is wrong and needs to be fixed. A good possibility is that a vacuum line got knocked loose when the plugs were changed. Any air leak downstream of the MAF sensor on the intake will screw up idle. That means any vacuum line or anything between the intake manifold upstream to the MAF.
  • bobcat79bobcat79 Member Posts: 2
    Hello all,

    I searched the forum for other instances of people having carburetors going bad on Protege's, but I must be the exception.

    My wife's '02 Protege5 began having pretty severe issues while driving over 50 mpg with the engine running at 50% and the engine light blinking - but the issues were occasional and we delayed getting them looked at for a couple of weeks. Big mistake!

    Turns out the engine coils had gone bad (2 of the 4). So I got them replaced, seemed to be fine in running when I drove away from the shop. The next day the engine light was back on with a code that the carburetor had gone bad.

    Long story short - in delaying the fix of the engine issues the gas/air mix was thrown off, ruining the carburetor. I had quotes for around $1100 to fix it but found a shop here in Columbus to it for $300 - which was very good in my mind.

    So this all went down six months ago but I was shocked when I searched and found seemingly no one else having engine coil pack and/or carburetor problems.

    We're now at 105k miles and no issues for the past few months but that was a frustrating setback. Overall I like the car still just thought I should share my experience.
  • downtubedowntube Member Posts: 43
    The Protege5 is a fuel injected car, so there is no carburetor. Not sure what you had fixed.

    Coils do go bad, but for two to go bad on a 7 year old car seems odd.

    In the future, if the check engine light (CEL) blinks, stop driving immediately. If it's on but not blinking, you can drive without expecting any damage to occur. But a blinking CEL means to stop driving immediately or serious engine damage can occur.
  • bobcat79bobcat79 Member Posts: 2
    I'm an idiot!

    I meant to type Catalytic Converter - not carburetor, probably makes more sense now.

    Yes - we know now that blinking light is bad. My wife didn't accurately describe how bad the issue was, plus we were having 10F weather and I thought it could be related to the cold.
  • oldman15oldman15 Member Posts: 43
    I guessed no simple adjustment.
    I'll check lines,
    If nothing, then off to the dealer.
    Thanks downtube.
    O15
  • newbiemechnewbiemech Member Posts: 1
    Hopefully someone can help me out. As my screen name implies, I'm new to car repair but anxious to learn. The problem I am currently having is that the battery light in my 2000 Protege 1.8L has come on. Initially it was only intermittently after sitting at a light for a minute or more but has gotten progressively worse over the last 3-4 days. I have already replaced the battery but the problem continues. I have taken the car out several times for long highway drives with only the running lights on to ensure that the battery I installed did not simply need to be charged itself.
    Though the car starts without issue, it is now to the point that any time the rpm's drop below 2400 the battery light comes on. I am now figuring that the alternator needs replacing and am considering attempting to do this myself but don't want to go to all the trouble and expense if it turns out this isn't the problem. The only other thing I can think of is a short somewhere though it seems that since the problem is getting worse this is not likely the case. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. :)

    Edit: I also checked the belt which seems to be in good condition (it was replaced several months ago). If it appears to be the alternator, any advice re: OEM/new/rebuilt? Dealership wants 384, can get a rebuilt one for 145 or aftermarket for 200
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    the battery light in my 2000 Protege 1.8L has come on ... any time the rpm's drop below 2400 the battery light comes on. I am now figuring that the alternator needs replacing and am considering attempting to do this myself but don't want to go to all the trouble and expense if it turns out this isn't the problem
    You may be right, as your car is almost 10 years old. How many miles on the vehicle? Assuming you had the timing belt changed, did you not have the belt for the alternator changed at the same time? My understanding is that the parts (i.e. the alternator and belt) are only half the battle, getting to them is where the real expense is; that's the major reason why changing a timing belt is so costly.
    I recommend a diagnostic is done before doing any repair work to avoid replacing parts that are not a problem.
  • downtubedowntube Member Posts: 43
    If you're thinking about doing repairs yourself, spend $25 to buy a Haynes manual for the car.

    I'd say the #1 thing to check is the alternator belt tension. Technique should be in the manual. New belts do stretch and settle in after installation, so that could be it.

    Buy a battery terminal cleaner (wire brush thing), and clean both the terminals and the posts. A poor connection to the battery could be the cause. Check for corrosion on the battery cables near the battery, and replace if badly corroded. Of course make sure the terminals are on tight.

    Since you've changed the battery, next would be the alternator. Most auto parts stores these days will test the alternator for free, but you have to remove it first. I wouldn't go cheap on the alternator, unless you find replacing it enjoyable.
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