Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

jstandefer

Let me know if that "gorilla snot" works. I have been battling the weatherstripping on the rear doors for well over two years now, and it gets annoying everytime I have to push it back into the groove, since it takes a while per door to do it right. However, they just keep coming back out...

My front door panels creak like an old wooden chair everytime I lean on them too. I have heard several complaints in the board about the same problem. Let us know if reattaching the door panels solves the problem!

maltb

It works! but application can get a bit messy. If you have to keep resetting the WS, I'd put a little on there. The stuff holds like contact cement so it won't move once you do it. Techs have been using the stuff for years as the previous post mentioned. You'll undestand the slang of it once you see it.

chikoo

but there is a TSB on weatherstriping - did you guys not see it?

Jstandefer - the doors creak 'cause there is no foam between the door paint and the panel vinyl. so they creak when they rub. A Dealer should do it free of cost.

maltb

You are right Chikoo. Here is the TSB text:

1. Detach the weatherstrip from the top/side portion of the door.
2. Clean the weatherstrip channel with isopropyl alcohol.
3. Apply a 1/4 inch bead of clear RTV silicone in the weatherstrip channel.
4. Reinstall weatherstrip into the channel and apply pressure in the
effected area, making sure that the silicone makes even contact with
the weatherstrip.
NOTE:
* Verify weatherstrip is completely inserted into the channel.
* Check weatherstrip at belt line for a firm fit against the door
frame, if necessary slide the weatherstrip upward to remove slack.

5. Clean any excess silicone.

NOTE: Weatherstrip must not be disturbed for at least 24 hours.
------------------------------
Interesting that they suggest RTV silicone. Seems like it could be ready for action immediately with weatherstrip adhesive.

jstandefer

I will take my Pro in and have them do that TSB! We'll see if that works and if not, I'll go for the "Snot de Gorilla"!

I'll also ask them about the creaking door panels! It is probably my number one complaint! Thanks again!

rnd2

3M also makes a weatherstrip adhesive that is black, it works as well as the yellow if not better, it's called- super weatherstrip adhesive- part# 08008

dhkcheng

Hi, I have a 2000 Protege and the back brakes squeal when I back
up or use the hand brake to stop. Has anyone else had this problem
with the rear brakes?

Thanks in advance.

fritz1224

I too have the squealing brakes in my 2k ES. It first started during the same situations as you described. Took it to dealer who said they were glazed and due to new brake materials used, will occassionally squeal. He supposedly deglazed them. Now, the brakes squeal slightly when coming to a stop and using moderate pressure. I don't think quiet brakes is a strong suit in this car.

cthig

the automatic transmission has failed at 161k and it appears the cost of replacement, even used will either equal or exceed the value of the car. my suggesstion was to change the fluid and filter and see if that is the problem; however, mechanic says if it stopped working while driving (which it did) then it would not be the fluid and filter. any suggestions?

kcying1

You guys really have no interest on my new protege forum ??????????

http://pub70.ezboard.com/bprotegepower

if u guys dont support it, at least u take a look of it pls

protegextwo

VERY VERY difficult to open an account with EZboard. I tried to set up an account, no go?

-Larry

gam2

RE GAS MILEAGE: My 2001 ES got 28 mpg on the first tankfull. Since then it has dropped as low as 14 mpg (50/50 city highway). This is ridiculous! The dealer has been no help and Mazda Customer service will not return my calls. ANYONE have any suggestions (short of a lawsuit)?
GAM

hboyd

After my dealer replaced the catalytic convertor in my '01 ES, the buzzing noises continued in the morning. I get this buzzing/rattle sound from the engine compartment/exhaust whenever I start the car up and drive away when it's cold. Started when new. Techs thought there were broken fins in the convertor... Mazda techs aren't always smart cookies... sorry... my experiences over 13 years. Someone f/TH stated that they had a loose heat-shield or something similar in their Protege.... Could that be the culprit... Any TSBs on this issue yet???

MARTIN

protegextwo

Both my 2000 Pro-ES's had the same rattle/buzz sound you describe. They started doing it at about 1,500 miles and they stopped doing it at about 5,000 miles? My wife's Protege seemed to do it more frequently, however. My service adviser suggested, it was a possible heat shield problem? Before I could schedule a check up, the noise stopped in both vehicles. Never to return. ;-)

Respectfully,
Larry

nikecar

Does the rattling seem to come from the front dash area on the driver side? My wife has heard it and so have I. I was fumbling under the dash and moved a clip and she hasn't heard it yet, but the rattle was intermitent before so the clip may not have been the problem..

That's the only thing I'd complain about so far.

maltb

It may have something to do with the Variable Tumble Control System in the intake manifold. The problem is, no official fix is available. A freind of mine had a similar problem and had the shutter plates replaced which seemed to do the trick.

hkchan

Does the Protege's auto trans. have lockup only in fourth gear? Regardless, there's no lockup in any gear in my ES. I definitely need to take it back to the dealer. This will be my second trip. My ES had a missing coolant reservoir cap. I should've checked the car more thoroughly when I took delivery. I've had the car for less than a week so is it still okay to take it to a different dealer for the problem with the torque converter? Is a defective lockup solenoid a possible cause? Thanks.

maltb

The TCC(torque converter clutch- aka. lock up) should only engage in fourth. How is the acceleration otherwise? If it is good, it may just be a sensor out of adjustment.

hkchan

I thought I read somewhere that some auto trans. had the lockup function in more than one gear. Must be on more-expensive cars. Everything else on the engine/transmission seemed fine. A sensor out of adjustment? Aren't sensors pretty much "disposable"? Is it okay to take the car to a different dealer even though I've had the car for less than one week?

maltb

Doesn't matter what Mazda dealer you go to as long as the dealer has entered the car as sold(btw, they have).

Also, the sensors I'm thinking of are the throttle position sensor or the transmission range sensor. On the other hand Henry, it could be a bad trans that's about to fall out the bottom of your car.

daddioof4

Hello, I need some advice or educated opinions on 3 issues. First some back ground. I purchased a used 93 Mazda Protégé LX with a 1.8 DOHC and 4 speed automatic. It has 155,000 miles, appears well kept. Previous owner claims to have changed oil every 3k. The 3 issues: 1) after a heavy rain, I found water in the right well behind the passenger side wheel well in the trunk where the jack goes. Nothing else appeared wet and I can't figure where the water came in from. Any Ideas? 2) The transmission seems to bang hard from 1st to 2nd. Is this normal for a protégé? How can I make it shift smoother? 3) The mileage isn't as good as I expected (23-24 mixed driving), so I decided to check the condition of the air filter, plugs and etc. I took off the air filter housing and found some oil in the FLEXIBLE HARD PLASTIC DUCTWORK. I believe this is normal because there is a hose running from the valve cover into this duct with what is probable is the PCV valve between the two. I took off the ductwork to clean the oil. Other than this, the filter was clean and everything looked good, so I put it back together. But, then I started having problems. Previously the car ran and idled fine. Now when the car is in gear and I am not moving, it idles rough, low and stalls. When I am driving it appears okay, but when I come to stop lights, it will stall. I figured I didn't have a vacuum hose connected secure some where, but instead found a crack in the FLEXIBLE HARD PLASTIC DUCTWORK. I was thinking, this couldn't be the problem. It's just allowing unfiltered air into the engine. I used the all-purpose duct tape, to cover it and the car started idling better. Is this engine that picky about how much air it sucks? Is duct tape okay in this instance? Thanks in advance for any help.

hkchan

"On the other hand Henry, it could be a bad trans that's about to fall out the bottom of your car."
That's a good one.

windowphobe6

Actually, a break in the plastic is a problem, because it presents an erroneous number to the mass-airflow sensor. The 626 suffers similarly under these conditions.

Historically, duct tape seems to last pretty well on everything except actual ducts, but if it's working properly while it's taped up, I could probably live with it.

jstandefer

If the crack is after the air filer, it may pose a problem. Usually, sensors such as the Mass Air Flow sensor are placed just after the air filer. It reads the amount of air coming in and and the computer uses this information to adjust the engine's fuel-air mapping as appropriate. At low engine speeds, this could pose a problem because the engine "thinks" it is getting less air than it actually is... all these electronics, have they made our lives easier?

maltb

1)I'm thinking tail lights are leaking.
2) Don't know, never had a '93
3)Most cars I have worked on are very sensitive to vacuum pressure changes, especially if it is is a key hose. Duct tape should only be a temporary fix.

Lunch time!

vocus

Try changing the automatic transmission fluid and filter. That may improve the shifting. If not, then take it to the dealer.

newcar31

By the way, did you replace the PCV valve while you were messing around? I don't think there should be oil in that tube and if I were you I would put in a new PCV valve.

windowphobe6

It held the exhaust manifold in my old Celica in place for 82,000 miles.

maltb

I usually revere your words but duct tape on an exhaust manifold would last about 2 minutes. Unless of course it were aluminum tape and I'd give that a full 30 minutes.

I better go put on my hip waders, it's getting thick in here.

daddioof4

Thanks for all the quick responses to my inquiries. I believe maltb (another MPVer) hit the nail on the head with the tail light leak. It was raining yesterday and I went out and started removing the plastic trim around the inside of the trunk by the taillamp and sho nuff I found a trickle. The tranny is still hitting hard. Will changing the fluid and filter make a difference in this or does the TC need tweeked? I haven't replaced the PCV valve yet or the plugs and wires. That is next weekend between the soccer, baseball and recitals (I have 4 little kids). Oh yeah, maltb, if you spring a leak in your waders, you can patch it with duc"k" tape.

nikecar

the leak would also be my pick from a tail light.. My sister in law's Sentra had that same problem.. fixed now.

windowphobe6

...82 miles?

Actually, I'm not sure of the exact composition of the stuff I used, but it definitely looked like death warmed over - and it never budged.

gitarzan

Remember when Orange Juice Cans were made of steel? I held more than a few exhaust pipes together with those. They'd last about a month. Then I do it again...

There is a wrap at the auto stores that looks like Duct Tape, but is really a heat cured epoxy. You wrap it, then wrap a wire over it, then wrap aluminum over it, then clamp it. It works pretty good for about 6 months to a year. It works best at fixing hairline cracks before they separate.

If there's a jerry rig to be done I've probably done it. I once went a winter (in college) running windshield wiper fluid in my radiator when there was an antifreeze shortage, about 1977. It was about $6 a bottle and that was really high back then. Wiper Fluid was about a buck a gallon just like it is today.

protegextwo

One particular winter morning, back in the early 80's, my washer fluid reservoir was bone dry and the darn highways were covered with that melting slushy snow stuff. I was border line late for work and I needed to do something fast. Well, I was quite the drinker "back in the day".... in went 3 parts water to one part Vodka. What in the heck was I thinking,lol??? I got to work ok but that evening the stuff froze up anyway and my car reeked of Vodka stink for weeks (way to cold to wash the car). Never, let anyone tell you Vodka has no odor!!! I'm lucky a Law Enforcement Officer did not pull me over for drinking and driving, he he!!!

-Larry

maltb

You could have sucked on the washer nozzle for and won that $5 bet.

protegextwo

I got to go wax my wifes car!! Talk to ya this after noon!! LOL!!!
;-)

-Larry

newcar31

I once knew a guy who did that in college. But not for the reason that you did it and with whiskey, not vodka. He unplugged the hose under the hood that went to the washer nozzles, plugged up the passenger side one, and extended the driver side hose with extra plastic hose from the hardware store to make it longer. Then he ran the hose through the fire wall into the cabin as you would with a power cable for a stereo. The hose came out underneath the dash. He could make drinks in his car by simply pushing the washer fluid stalk without having an open bottle in his car. He would dump a liter or so of whiskey in his washer fluid resevoir. If you ever saw his wipers going and it was nice out, you better stay away from his car. He thought it was hillarious. I thought it was pretty clever, but also very, very stupid. Talk about a drinker, no wonder there are so many drunk driving accidents.

gam2

No comments on my 14 mpg and the Mazda's reluctance to do anything about it?
GAM

newcar31

is ridiculous. In my old 5.0L mustang I got 16 mpg in the city, and it did low 14's in the 1/4 mile. Something is definately wrong if a car with more than twice the displacement gets better MPG.

kgrent

My daughters 97 Protege has an automatic tranny that has always shifted hard. 1-2 and 2-3 shifted very hard. She recently had fluid changed and it seemed to smooth out the shifts for about a week. The car sat for about 8 days and then was fine for 2 days. Today it started just slamming into gear during upshifts, worse than ever before? Even at slow speed the upshift is definitely way to hard. I haven't touched and automatic since the old GM Turbo 350 and it's vacuum modulator valve (showing my age) Any suggestions? 86,000 miles by the way.

scooti

I have a 97 Protege ES with auto tranny and 62,500 mi. I have never had any problems with the tranny. If I accelerate briskly, it can shift hard. Otherwise it is quite smooth. I bought the car new in Dec. 1996 and it has been great. It gets between 26-36 mpg city/highway. I haven't had the fluid changed in the tranny yet, though I may have it done when I have the timing belt replaced in the near future.

hstep

I have a 93 Protege DX. GLC!, however, just since February there is a jerk/bucking in my engine. I've had the transmission looked at and it's fine. Then I had someone look at the engine and they replaced the no. 3 spark plug wire on it. However, it kept bucking. Mostly under speeds of 45 and at idle... It's automatic. It somewhat affects the acceleration-making it sluggish, but the car still drives. Has only stalled out 2x after starting up from being parked. I took it in again, and had the entire plug/wire set replaced. Later that same day, it started jerking and bucking again. It's one of the strangest and most difficult things to describe if you aren't sitting in the car with me at a red light, but I can't seem to get it fixed. Does this sound familiar to anyone?? I plan on buying a new protege this summer, so I'm tempted to just wait it out and let it buck- is this bad? I apologize for not being more technical but I'm absolutely lost here.

Thanks!

maltb

Hard shift may be caused by the throttle position sensor. Does the car have any other strange characteristics? ex. erratic idle, poor fuel economy.

Engine Miss:
Those cars were notorious for not liking certain aftermarket distributor caps. Also, make sure you choose your plugs and wires carefully. I would try to stick with NGK plugs and wires.

mazdafun

What have you had checked out?

Usual suspects for me are:

Clogged air filter.
Bad spark plug wire (or wires connected to the wrong cylinders, which can really cause your engine to run roughly and drastically reduce your mpg). Also check to see that each one is connected...you may not be running on all cylinders.
Bad spark plug(s). Check the gap.
Old engine oil or clogged oil filter. I notice about 1-2mpg improvement after every oil and filter change.
Low tire pressure. 32psi is recommended by Mazda.
Wheels not aligned. You'll see uneven wear across your tire or "cupping" along one edge as a symptom.
O2 sensor (this now starts to get more costly).
Thermostat (do you notice your car overheating or no heat coming out of your vents?).
Is there something clogging your exhaust system? (Never put leaded fuel into your Pro; you will damage your catalytic converter and this may clog up your exhaust to boot).
After that, I leave it up to the trained techs, as it's usually something with a sensor, computer or other electrical problem.

mazdafun

I had an annoying squeak from the passenger door trim panel a while back.

When I pulled off the panel to install an aftermarket speaker, I found that one of the plastic fasteners wasn't attached to the trim panel. This allowed the panel to flex and squeak.

After I pulled the fastener out of the door and put it correctly into the trim panel and put it all back together, the squeak has been banished.

Of course, you can always turn up the volume on your stereo. Hee, hee!

merrymex

The dealer is trying to sell me an MP3 at 2000 over MSRP claiming the scarcity of the vehicle is hiking up the price everywere. Has anyone else heard anything like this before with the MP3? This would be my first Mazda.

mazdafun

Yes, the dealers are taking advantage of this. One local dealer has tacked on about $2500 to the MSRP on a blue MP3.

They are limited-run production. Not surprising. Most dealers do that: Chrysler with the PT Cruiser, Toyota with the new MR2 etc. Most MP3s aren't marked up as much as these previous cars have been though (as much as $10k above MSRP, if you can believe it).

The same will happen with the Impreza WRX and the Lancer when they arrive. Limited supply and plenty of people willing to pay the additional profit margin.

Maybe you can wait 'til next year? They may increase the supply if they see them being snapped up. Then again, maltb did hint that there are engine upgrades coming up (possibly super or turbo-charged, even rotary?).

maltb

Now I'm getting credit for things I never said.

Newcar hinted to a turbo charged MP3 in years coming. I tend to agree with his take, though. Supercharged: I'm less likely to believe today than 2 days ago. Rotary: just me dreaming about utopia.

With the MP3, there are only 1500 of the 2001 model. Automakers are not required to re-certify emissions on these small runs, so to keep the cost down, they must also keep production down. Don't expect more than 1500 next year if they do make a 2002 MP3.

Lastly to merrymex's post, although it is hard to stomach paying over MSRP for anything, the dealers will easily sell what they have at $2k over. The content upgrades from the ES would cost much more than that if you did it yourself. Besides, when was the last time you saw Racing Beat offer 35 month/50k mile warranty on anything they sell?

mazdafun

...sorry newcar.

Re: rotary, I like to dream too. Now if they put that in the P5, that would be cool. Would one fit as an aftermarket refit?

anwarma

I have a 99 Protege with 35643 miles and for a week now I have been hearing at slow speeds a clicking and knocking from the front of the car.
I took it to the dealer today and they detected it to be a problem with the left front alloy rim and they moved the wheel to the back(rear) on the left side.
Also they told me that my front brake pads are worn out, so I should replace it SAP. I asked for a cost estimate on the front brake job and the estimate was $286+tax.
I was in no way going to pay $300 for the replacement of front brake pad job.
So I took it to Good Year Service center and the got the brake pads replaced for $131. Now the brake are very responsive but that did not fix the clicking and knocking noise from the front. Dealer says they could not hear any noises before then and even now.
My question is has anyone else heard such noises from their 99 protege etc. I would really like to know what the noise is before my 50k warranty runs out? I don't think it is a engine timing noise. I think it is a noise from the strut, ball joint etc but dealer says that the struts and ball joint are perfectly fine condition.

Please help me out, I will appreciate any help from fellow Protege Owners.