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MISC Sprinter Problems (oh the list)
vpracegasatl
Member Posts: 15
I have had my 2003 3500 since new in late 2002. Has 160,000 miles now. Love the van for what it can do but oh the misc. problems I have had in the past 5 years:
I have mine serviced at Hayes Chrysler (authorized Sprinter dealer and service center with Sprinter Techs onsite). All services are up to date.
Occasionally, very hot air comes out of A/C vents, even though I did not change the temperature (from cold) of the A/C. A/C LED will go off at this time. Fixes itself in a few minutes. Doesn't happen very often but does happen.
Power locks do not work. All fuses are good. Will not work via the dash button or the key fob. I do hear a slight "click" if I press the lock button but they do not lock or unlock. If standing very close to the van, keyfob will make the hazard lights flash once but locks do not lock or unlock. Tried new batteries in the keyfob just for the fun of it. No fix.
Just recently, if I turn the A/C-Vent fan on HIGH, it will trip the fuse for that item. Only if I turn it on HIGH.
OEM Radio: What a horrible radio. Now, the volume knob will sometimes not adjust the volume. You have to press on the CD opening and then turn the volume for it to work. Sometimes the whole left side of the radio will have problems. Mute won't work sometimes. Sound adjustments (bass, treble, fader, balance) will not work sometimes. LOL That's a funny one.
Had a major fuel injector leak for quite some time (now fixed) but the dealer has told me numerous times that that fuel leak caused big problems in the topend of the motor. Motor is losing power (even at full throttle). Services are all up to date - mind you - so it's not fuel filter. So, the motor is way down on power on hard throttle. Motor starts fine, idles fine, takes off fine. But as you pick up speed/rpm, power starts dropping off. Air filter is fine. The dealer is telling me the motor is dying becasue of the damage done from the fuel injector leak. You must be kidding me. You folks know how much even a used Sprinter motor is... UHHHH
Dealer tells me there is play in the crankshaft caused from this injector leak problem (that has now been fixed).
Had a major leak in the fuel line that goes into the engine as well. Has been fixed. So, I am guess that these misc. fuel leaks caused major problems over time.
WITH THAT SAID, I have used this van as my sole transportation and I loved it dearly. No other van out there can do what a Sprinter can do, but all of these problems have totally turned me off from wanting to keep this van any longer.
I have 11 months left to pay for this van. In good running condition it is still worth more than the loan has left. I guess that's a good thing. With a potentially failing motor, ($10,000 repair to install new engine) I would say this substantially reduces the selling value of this fine van.
Sorry to vent but although this van has served me well, it just costs too much and too much hassle to keep it. And the new ones with the gas engine are so so so expensive that it's just not worth that either.
Would like some feedback on the problems I mentioned. I would like to get it in as decent shape as possible so I can at least sell it to pay off the loan and move on to a long bed V8 pickup truck and an enclosed trailer. I did the numbers to the T and the Sprinter costs about $12,000 more over 5 years vs. a V8 truck. I know, I know. There's no comparison. But I gotta do what I gotta do.
Feel free to email directly to respond to my problems. I know there's a bunch of them listed up there. [Email removed].
Thanks,
Dave in Atlanta, GA
I have mine serviced at Hayes Chrysler (authorized Sprinter dealer and service center with Sprinter Techs onsite). All services are up to date.
Occasionally, very hot air comes out of A/C vents, even though I did not change the temperature (from cold) of the A/C. A/C LED will go off at this time. Fixes itself in a few minutes. Doesn't happen very often but does happen.
Power locks do not work. All fuses are good. Will not work via the dash button or the key fob. I do hear a slight "click" if I press the lock button but they do not lock or unlock. If standing very close to the van, keyfob will make the hazard lights flash once but locks do not lock or unlock. Tried new batteries in the keyfob just for the fun of it. No fix.
Just recently, if I turn the A/C-Vent fan on HIGH, it will trip the fuse for that item. Only if I turn it on HIGH.
OEM Radio: What a horrible radio. Now, the volume knob will sometimes not adjust the volume. You have to press on the CD opening and then turn the volume for it to work. Sometimes the whole left side of the radio will have problems. Mute won't work sometimes. Sound adjustments (bass, treble, fader, balance) will not work sometimes. LOL That's a funny one.
Had a major fuel injector leak for quite some time (now fixed) but the dealer has told me numerous times that that fuel leak caused big problems in the topend of the motor. Motor is losing power (even at full throttle). Services are all up to date - mind you - so it's not fuel filter. So, the motor is way down on power on hard throttle. Motor starts fine, idles fine, takes off fine. But as you pick up speed/rpm, power starts dropping off. Air filter is fine. The dealer is telling me the motor is dying becasue of the damage done from the fuel injector leak. You must be kidding me. You folks know how much even a used Sprinter motor is... UHHHH
Dealer tells me there is play in the crankshaft caused from this injector leak problem (that has now been fixed).
Had a major leak in the fuel line that goes into the engine as well. Has been fixed. So, I am guess that these misc. fuel leaks caused major problems over time.
WITH THAT SAID, I have used this van as my sole transportation and I loved it dearly. No other van out there can do what a Sprinter can do, but all of these problems have totally turned me off from wanting to keep this van any longer.
I have 11 months left to pay for this van. In good running condition it is still worth more than the loan has left. I guess that's a good thing. With a potentially failing motor, ($10,000 repair to install new engine) I would say this substantially reduces the selling value of this fine van.
Sorry to vent but although this van has served me well, it just costs too much and too much hassle to keep it. And the new ones with the gas engine are so so so expensive that it's just not worth that either.
Would like some feedback on the problems I mentioned. I would like to get it in as decent shape as possible so I can at least sell it to pay off the loan and move on to a long bed V8 pickup truck and an enclosed trailer. I did the numbers to the T and the Sprinter costs about $12,000 more over 5 years vs. a V8 truck. I know, I know. There's no comparison. But I gotta do what I gotta do.
Feel free to email directly to respond to my problems. I know there's a bunch of them listed up there. [Email removed].
Thanks,
Dave in Atlanta, GA
0
Comments
Need a new/used AC/Heat control panel... best guess.
>>Power locks do not work. All fuses are good. Will not work via the dash button >>or the key fob. I do hear a slight "click" if I press the lock button but they do not >>lock or unlock. If standing very close to the van, keyfob will make the hazard >>lights flash once but locks do not lock or unlock. Tried new batteries in the >>keyfob just for the fun of it. No fix.
Probably need a new Central Locking Timer (yes, TIMER) that was bad on mine at the start.
>>Just recently, if I turn the A/C-Vent fan on HIGH, it will trip the fuse for that item. >>Only if I turn it on HIGH.
Not sure, but look for bad/chaffed wire going to fan, possibly the fan itself. Generally these fans run through resisters when on lower speeds, and run flat out when on High... Could also be related to bad control panel. Could be that the resister/speed control module is bad.
>>OEM Radio: What a horrible radio. Now, the volume knob will sometimes not >>adjust the volume. You have to press on the CD opening and then turn the >>volume for it to work. Sometimes the whole left side of the radio will have >>problems. Mute won't work sometimes. Sound adjustments (bass, treble, fader, >>balance) will not work sometimes. LOL That's a funny one.
Time for new radio, used on ebay are usually plentiful.
>>Had a major fuel injector leak for quite some time (now fixed) but the dealer has >>told me numerous times that that fuel leak caused big problems in the topend of >>the motor. Motor is losing power (even at full throttle). Services are all up to >>date - mind you - so it's not fuel filter. So, the motor is way down on power on >>hard throttle. Motor starts fine, idles fine, takes off fine. But as you pick up >>speed/rpm, power starts dropping off. Air filter is fine. The dealer is telling me >>the motor is dying becasue of the damage done from the fuel injector leak. You >>must be kidding me. You folks know how much even a used Sprinter motor is... >>UHHHH
1) Any engine codes/lights?
2) Clean and/or replace EGR/solenoid is one possible fix. (have you ever done this?)
3) Turbo Resonator possible cracked/leaking.
4) Possible failing MAS (Mass Air Sensor).
5) Possible leaking Air intake system (after turbo), check all hoses/clamps/intercooler, etc.
6) Injector leak caused excess fuel to pour into crankcase? Dilutes oil? Damages bearings? etc.? Yes, time for engine rebuild/replace someday.
>>Dealer tells me there is play in the crankshaft caused from this injector leak >>problem (that has now been fixed).
Run higher weight oil, like 15W-40, Sprinters are reported to like it better anyway.
Good Luck,
KenB :shades:
Meaning the whole dash control panel? All of the switches, dials, etc.? Excuse my ignorance...
Probably need a new Central Locking Timer (yes, TIMER) that was bad on mine at the start.
Didn't find one on eBay. Surely a pricey one. UGH
Not sure, but look for bad/chaffed wire going to fan, possibly the fan itself. Generally these fans run through resisters when on lower speeds, and run flat out when on High... Could also be related to bad control panel. Could be that the resister/speed control module is bad.
Oh the list... so many things it "could" be.
Time for new radio, used on ebay are usually plentiful.
Got a decent aftermarket radio for a good price on the way.
1) Any engine codes/lights?
None
2) Clean and/or replace EGR/solenoid is one possible fix. (have you ever done this?)
Have not. I see some complete EGR Valves for sale online. Will that fix it?
3) Turbo Resonator possible cracked/leaking.
Ugh
4) Possible failing MAS (Mass Air Sensor).
I see one listed for sale online. "could be the problem though"? LOL
5) Possible leaking Air intake system (after turbo), check all hoses/clamps/intercooler, etc.
Will check.
6) Injector leak caused excess fuel to pour into crankcase? Dilutes oil? Damages bearings? etc.? Yes, time for engine rebuild/replace someday.
I assume so. Way back when, when I step on the throttle hard, a pretty good amount of smoke would come out of the exhaust. I figured it was normal for a diesel to do that. I guess not eh? Must have been the excessive diesel pouring into the cylinder. Oh well. LOL
I notice that the van takes off just fine. It will even go 75mph eventually. But when you really step on the throttle, it just does not pick up like it should. And it shifts gears much earlier than it used to. It's like it won't rev a gear out like it used to. It just shifts early and moves on to the next gear before it really hits the powerband. It will not automatically downshift into passing gear if I want to pass someone. It just holds in the gear it was in. I do hear the "whistling" of the turbo as usual but it's acting like there is no "turbo POWER" if that makes sense.
Run higher weight oil, like 15W-40, Sprinters are reported to like it better anyway.
Ain't gonna keep it long enough to bother.. LOL
I just want to get it running / functioning as well as possible so I can sell it.
Would like to get the power locks working, A/C fan, Radio (I will do), at least. If the motor's power issue is a relatively easy fix like you mentioned above, that's good. But if it requires a whole rebuild, replacement of the motor, it's just not worth the price to me.
I can do some of the easy stuff but as far as going deep into the Sprinter, I never have. I do have the CD of the service manual though. Just haven't done anything to it yet.
Yes, there is alot to work test to know what to do, that was the point of my reply before.
EGR is expensive, so I would clean it first in attempt to see if that is a fix.
Central Locking Timer also expensive, and no I have not seen one on Ebay lately. However, someone appears to be parting out a Sprinter by the looks of several used parts being offered. You might check with them.
For a the A/C controls, yes, it is one unit that is often replaced together. They do show up on Ebay sometimes.
KenB :shades:
I do alot of stop and go driving as the van is used for package delivery. Today after driving for about 3 hours I went to take a hill and had no power whatsoever. I could put my foot right to the floor and basically nothing would happen. I drove for a another few miles and during one of my stops I shut the engine off to make the delivery. When I started the van back up normal power and performance was restored. I drove for several more hours with no problems. Sometime during the afternoon the same thing happened. no power, no response form the pedal and a hum/vibration from underneath the van ( this also happened the first time). So i did the same thing , shutting the engine off and restarting and once again things went back to normal with power to the engine with a light touch to the pedal. It ended up happening three times today with the same result each time. I have already contacted the dealer.
This van had an issue when I first purchased it. They replaced a unit on the front of the engine that revs up the PSI. It had a small fuel leak from a fitting and they opted to replace the entire unit.
I do really like the van. the design, ride and MPGs but must admit I am very disappointed to be having an issue with just 3000 miles on the van.
Thanks!
Jim
Oh, and of course, the Stealer says there is nothing wrong.
When you find you issue, PLEASE inform us what it is. I have to get this problem fixed so I can at least sell the van. LOL I'm done with Sprinters. I don't care how great they are. I like mine too for what it can do. But not for the issues.
So long Sprinter...
Anyone know of good independent Sprinter tech in the Atlanta area? At least someone who knows this particular Mercedes motor, etc. Any help would be great. I'm about to sell this 2003 3500 so I want everything to be working as well as possible before I do so.
1) the heater itself (that little box (below/in front of) the battery... It is the heart of the matter. This unit (AKA - ESPAR) controls the other parts required below... you must use this auxillary heat function regularly or it does not tend to last a long time. Run at least 10 minutes every month regardless of outside temps. If this unit starts then immediately shuts down, then probably the water pump is not functioning. If it doesn't come on at all, then the dash control (or a wire from it are suspect). It may also have lost prime, or the dosing pump wiring (or pump) could be faulty. See each below.
2) dash control/wiring check it out all under hood as well (look for frayed/touching wires and harness components).
3) Dosing pump gives fuel to ESPAR (only when the ESPAR calls for fuel). Does the pump rattle a bit when the unit is on? If not, it could be this part, but it is controlled by the ESPAR, so trace wires.
4) The auxillary fluid pump (roughly to the right of the ESPAR and back close to the firewall. If this fails, then the ESPAR cannot run as the fluid in it will overheat right away and the ESPAR will shut down. The auxillary fluid pump is more likely to fail if you run the aux. heater (ESPAR) alot or frequently use the REST function. This pump is common to DODGE, FORD, BOSCH, MERCEDES and possibly other companies... you have more than one source and the Ford replacement (for example) is not so expensive, but is supposed to be identical.
Use the REST function (after warm up and see if the rest function provides hot/warm air for the entire 30 minute rest period. If not, you certainly have cause to believe that the aux. fluid pump is bad (it has not kept hot fluid going to the heater core during its 30 minute run.
ESPAR units DO pass codes (or the CAN system does pick up/process codes from this system) and they can be helpful, but some mechanics do not know about them. More extensive troubleshooting help is available, but most likely at another site and I can help you if you write me.
KenB
[Email removed]
My Sprinter 3500 has been parked for more than 6 weeks. Mine was accelerating VERY very slow and it's not the filter. It started doing it all of the sudden after I had a fuel line replaced. The dealer found nothing wrong to cause the slow accel. So, I parked it because I'm tired of the issues (and the $4.50/gallon fuel). Got myself a Chevy 2500 truck and I'm happy. Less mileage or not. I can count on 10 fingers and 10 toes all of the issues my Sprinter has caused me. Love the van but just too many issues. It's now acting as a 14 foot enclosed trailer that sits in the driveway. Pretty funny to have a $40,000 enclosed trailer that I could drive every now and then (but I don't). HAHAHAH
Anyone wanna buy a sluggish-running 2003 3500? Good tires, new brakes ($1500). Recent full transmssion service ($1,000). New upper fuel line. All new fluids: brake fluid, radiator fluid, transmission, power-steering fluid. All kinds of new stuff. All done by authorized/certified Sprinter Service Center. Probably spent $3,000 on it in the past 6 months. Still sluggish acceleration, Haven't really tried hard to fix that part though. I just know it's NOT the fuel filter on mine now.Different symptom in this case.
LOL :sick:
It had not happened to me, but I took it in for them to do the recall work.
Might check again with dealer.
Someone told me they don't. The innercooler hose that goes to the front of the engine has a plastic part in it that sure looks like one. If so, could this be the problem.
Sprinter vans will go into what they call limp mode. The computer automatically shuts the power down to where your turbo will not work.
Which results in a loss of power.
Have it put on a computer and see what it says.
We do that here where we live.
They are a big help.
2003 Sprinters do not have a resonator. 2005 and later.The plastic part you are seeing is just a housing that holds two sensors. The resonator is attached directly to the compressor side of the turbo, its a big oval looking plastic box. Johnson Industries makes a nice aluminum bypass tube to replace this part.
I'm thinking it might be in "limp-mode" like someone else mentioned. Something computer-related is my hope. I certainly hope it's not what my Five Star Dodge/Sprinter dealer claims that it's because it was driven with a leaky fuel injector that kept dumping more fuel into the top-end. The injector has since been replaced but they claim that is what caused this problem it has now. I haven't gotten a 2nd opinion since then, so, I don't know for sure.
Not even worried about it right now. The van is paid-off and makes for a great 14-foot storage trailer that sits in my driveway. LOLOL
Sprinter vans are great for what they are designed to do. Heck, mine was my sole transportation for 5 years. Great vehicle. But too expensive to buy, too expensive to service, too expensive to repair, just too expensive to everything...
Full brake job $1700
Transmission service $800
Oil change with fuel filter service $200
One could buy a small used car for the cost of some of the major services of a Sprinter. HAHA
any ideas?????
thanks dave
Then we had the rattling caliper on the left front wheel. They told me the bracket was either machined wrong or the caliper was.
They replaced both finially.
There was air in the breaking system from the day I picked it up. Three times to the dealer for that one and they think they got it. ( MORONS... Air is trapped in the ABS unit from dissembly for shipping and since there was no CODE in the computer they couldn't fix it!!)
Then we have the transmission problem.... It leaks for one. Then when it shifts from 3-4 or 4-3 there is a rumble in the driveline. FIrst time I told them about it they looked at me stupid. The second time they couldn't find a thing wrong.. ( huh, what else would they say) but it was low on fluid again.
The Third time I took it in was DECEMBER 22, 2009. after two weeks the repaired the caliper and called saying they could not get it to make the rumble/vibration in the driveline. I was there the next day. It didn't want to do it, but I kept driveing it. Made the Service Manager go with me instead of the Mechaninc he was going to send. After about 25 minutes at 22 degrees it did it. The SM looked at me and asked with big eyes" what the hell was that" I about rolled on the floor while driving.
Then I could get it to do it everytime it shifted up or down between the two gears.
I am seriously disappointed in a vehicle that has promise but lacks any trust from the engineers to the dealer to service it. In My opinion the Major Problem with the Sprinter is the lack of familiarity the dealer has and the training they receive along with the fact that they tear apart a perfectly good vehicle only to have idiots reassemble it when it gets into SOUTH CAROLINA.
There is the issue of using only a synthetic oil with Mercedes ratings and anything else will damage the emissions. This oil is anywhere from about$ 7-$12 a quart and there are 13 quarts!!
I hold a valid PA Inspection License and have worked in the automotive fields for 40 years. GOD help us all if this continues in the auto market.
They only care to sell at any and all costs.
Now what I forgot to tell you the dealer still has the Van and I have not heard from them since. I pulled the tag the day I dropped it off and am in the process of putting it on a 1998 Utilmaster/GMC walkin. What a disappointyment. I really don't want the Sprinter back and for me to drive anything but a dodge that is pretty bad, but I need the room and won't buy a new GM or FORD. I dropped the insurance yesterday even though it is still financed. I don't care I am not paying payments and insurance for a new truck I can't use. So to save my credit I will make the payments until the attorney gets involved and we go from there.
Sprinter = Lemon
Stay Away!! oh and by the way you can check and see..... Dodge dropped the Sprinter Line and are in te process of replacing it with another disaster... a similar looking FIAT.
Dodge\Chrysler..... a bit if advice... Copy the body. Get rid of CAN.Put a 3500 ram running gear under it and I would buy two. Especailly if they were 4WD.
Have a Great Day! BUY AMERICAN
WWII ended 55 years ago I thought, yet we are still being screwed by the nations we beat. Anyone want to discuss TOYOTA?? Does anyone else see the handwriting on the wall??
BUY AMERICAN
Complain to the high-manager/owner of the dealership. Complain and complain, in person, and be very loud and obnoxious in front of other customers. Call Dodge Customer Service. Something will get done. Sitting and waiting won't get it done, though.
My Sprinter has sat parked in my driveway for more than two years now - for that very reason. Couldn't get anything done/resolved from a dealership and it's just too much to fix all of the crazy things that went wrong with it. Makes for a great 14-foot enclosed trailer though. The loan is paid-off though. LOLOL
The motorhome is on a 3500 (it has the double rear wheels). For 2011 they are coming out with a 188hp (old is 154hp). Also will have more torque (320 vs 280?).
Anyone here heard about the motorhome issues?
thank you,
JLO
[Email removed]
Have you guys with 2002-2003 models received the Recall notice on the Intake Manifold? I must say I am happy about that, at least. Mine needed replacing anyway and the dealer was trying to con me into a whole motor ($14,000). LOL
There is a recall out now for 02-03 Sprinters. Complete Intake Manifold replacement! YAHOOOO!! Should help mine run better now.
The positive battery cable is proving to be a problem with some 07 and up Sprinters. There is a crimp/fusible link that gradually builds resistance and eventually causes a no start or lack of charging. I haven't heard of one that suddenly comes back to life after sitting a while, but it's possible. Here is some text from the Chrysler document...
"Intermittent no start due to low battery voltage/discharged battery.;1. Intermittent low battery voltage/discharged battery, even after driving for some time. 2. Alternator output, when measured at the alternator is correct. 3. Alternator output, when measured at the battery may be below normal."
"Possible cause may be high resistance in the cable from the starter motor to the battery, caused by a loose crimp at the 300 Amp fusible link. Perform a voltage drop test over the cable from the starter to the battery while at the same time doing a ‘wiggle’ test on the cable at the fusible link. If corrosion is present and/or the cable does not pass the voltage drop test, replace the cable."
Hope this helps!
[Email removed]
Saturday morning was cold (circa 36 degrees) and I started it with the normal procedure. After idling for about five minutes it died and has not fired since although I have tried many different times. At first I figured if I waited till the temp. to get above 50 it might start and run just fine. The temperature has reached 65 since it died and I have had no luck starting it. It fired only once when I gave it a shot of starting fluid. It did not give me any indicator lights in the dash until I unplugged the connection to the fuel rail solenoid which I removed and checked the o-rings. They looked great and after reinstalling the solenoid the Engine Control Unit Indicator Lamp is still lit.
Any help would be appreciated, Mike
Checked fuel preasure at injectors by cracking the line open and very little fuel preasure.
Checked the fuel preasure regulator for a split O-ring and it looks fine. any Ideas anyone?
I believe the problems are related to incompetent service department not trained to service CDI Diesel engines, too bad my sprinter Freightliner Dealer will not work on GL320 Mercedes, just Sprinters!
thank you
first 3 years dead battery finally a defect was found in starter wiring harness
shift module went bad van locked into park, , egr valve replaced
body module (main brain) burned out at 65000 miles (2,000 dollar repair)
batter replaced 2x within 70,000 miles
tires went at 24,000 miles
body rust around thick body side mouldings
3 sets of brake pads and brake rotors in 0-75,000 miles 7 years
replaced headlight, brake light bulbs 20 times over in 7 years
bottom line i talked to more owners of 07 and up sprinters who experenced the same problems
this is a bad vehicle and i am sorry i made this purchase
most important! mercedes benz would not stand by anything after the warranty expired
no one to cal/l no one at mercedes to listen
i wish i could get my mouth on someone at mercedes benz
soon it will be a bad memory, and someone elses problem
good ridenance
a quote! "THE BEST PLACE FOR ANY MERCEDES BENZ BUILT VEHICLE, IS A AUTO RECLAIM CENTRE"
DO NOT BUY!!!!!!!!! MAJOR ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS!!!!!!!!!!!!$$$$$$$$$$
So, I talked to my Sprinter mechanic in California who told me not to take to anyone unless they have the necessary dx tool called Xentec? Don't know if I spelled that right. I am so glad I did. I found a Sprinter/MBZ mechanical shop in Fayetteville about 80 miles from where I was staying in Fort Smith. It was well worth the trip. The owner drove a Sprinter 3500 and understood the vehicle completely. He found the "smoking gun". It was a cracked air intake hose which was minor and fixed my problem simply. He said at 80k, my unit was just broken in and should get close to 300k or more on it. I also read that the older units 2004-2006 were not as troublesome due to the newer ones having to comply with the new Air Quality regulations which are problematic. My son is a truck driver and was experiencing that with his semi truck due to air quality modifications required. I love my 2006 Winnebago View and appreciate all the input on these forums as they have helped me to understand and maintain my unit.