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You mentioned Type IV transmission fluid from the Lexus dealer. I have a SC400 and was told only to use type T (I think it was type T-II, but can't recall-- could have said IV). Is this what you are referring to, or are there other options?
I had a total flush/replacement 2-3 years ago, and experienced occasional "shuddering" at low speeds afterwards. I read where this can be caused by using the wrong fluid, and sure enough, found that the shop used Dexron or whatever they commonly used. The wrong fluid was in the car for at least a year before I had it serviced (but not totally replaced) with type T. The shuddering problem went away, so I didn't do anything more. Could this damage the transmission by keeping the mix of Dexron?
BTW, I found the exact same fluid at a Toyota dealer for almost half the price of the Lexus dealer.
I Have A burned Out ETC Power button bulb (no big deal just the Little light) , you cant see it at night, and I suppose when I am changing that bulb I will replace the gear shift Ones too ( P,R,N,D etc...) the green Ones , However, I dont know How to get to the bulbs How do I lift the gear shifter plastic plate cover to get to the bulbs if anyone knows please let me know.
Happy Lexus Owner,
Paul
Does anyone feel a difference when in use?
We recommend that they be changed every 30k or 2 years.
Hope this is the only thing you've been negligent on watch out for power steering pump leaking because the PS fluid doesn't get changed, then it takes out the alternator.
Well I have had to change the Power Steering Pump AND my Rack and Pinion all within the same year on my 1994 with LESS then a 100,000 miles on it, so I need to know WHEN to change out my power steering fluid because just these two jobs cost me $2,000. Ok well I hope someone can help.
How will you know the junk yard parts [circuit board] are any better?
The board runs behind and interconnects all the gauges.
Did you ever run the battery down and get a jump start? This is a no no on a lux car.
At the minimum 2 years or 30k for: diff, tranny, PS, traction, brakes, coolant and of course every 90 days for oil.
Remember AC Freon 134a is a fluid [under pressure] and contains oil to lube the compressor, which turns acidic and eats through components. There is a dryer module which should be changed every 4 years or 60k to maximize system life.
I.P. = Instrument panel
The oil is what changes and becomes acidic [less so on R134a]. The major problem is the longterm permeabilty of the rubber hoses and the gaskets [o rings] coupling the compressor.
Yes the LS is considered maintenance free until it fails! And as most of you know a complete rebuild can run $2500 plus.
My point was simple inexpensive things to do to prolong its life and exchanging the oil and a new dryer at the midpoint seeems to add a year or two [getting system beyond 150-200k].
At our facility we have 4 customers with LS beyond 300,000 miles, my personal Q has 226,000 miles and still on the original components [R12] except for replacing the dryers twice.
I have a 1995 LS400, had a fog light just burn out, tried to replace the light myself and was wondering how the heck do you get to the bulb, has anyone tried to change their fog light bulbs, seems the front light and fog light are integrated together, any suggestions, of course I know I can take to the dealer but thought I could do this one myself. fog light is located in front of the battery on the driver's side.
thanks
dj
dj
You can suck out a little fluid from the filler port, multiple times but cleaning the screens requires disassembly and back flushing.
Anything is better than nothing.
Good Luck.
Didn't get a chance to try to replace the bulb yet, But I see a fellow lexus owners(poliwhirlguy) had the same problem, wow poli, guess we probably had the same thoughts on the LS, I see it works, I will try this weekend to replace and respone like you have.
rod thanks for the reply u also poliwhirlguy.
dj
I drained my old oil and measured it. about 3 liters. So I poured in some new stuff and went for a test drive(20 miles). I must say that I did notice more pick up. But My real concern is that after I finished the drive and checked the atf fluid dipstick, I noticed that it did not show as much oil as before the change. What would be the difference? Does it need more oil? How can I tell?THanks!!
you were right, changed the fog light on the LS400. thanks for your input it was very simple. I wonder what the dealer would have charged for that ten minute job. thanks again for the directions on fixing the fog lights, I love this site.
dj
You can purchase the springs and seats plus new standard shocks, boots, bump stops and change everything over and disable the air compressor. Check with junkyards to find the springs [only use 95 model] don't go redesigning something.
do you know if there is anything else that would have to modified like within the onboard computer? were they linked somehow so that the car will think it always have the air suspension? and...do you think any auto shop would be able to do this or would i have to use the dealer? my cousin is head mechanic at a local shop and has worked on my previous ES most of the time. with all the gadgets and things in the LS including the air suspension would it be better to just pay the extra $$$ at the dealer for the replacement or try my luck with the mechanic?
Many dealers won't modify a car due to liability and if they do they surely won't use junkyard parts. To buy all new would run $500 per wheel.
The Q45a had a much more complicated system which cost $6,000 to partial rebuild every 60k or so.
We do a lot of retrofits on Q but all LS owners so far have opted to repair the airride.
I had a similiar experience where I was driving 33k rough miles per year for 3 years [thank goodness that's over] it was costing close to 18 cents per mile to keep the car as new from 100k to 200k...new shocks and brakes every year,all day Sat maintenance once a month.
When you drive this kind of mileage you have to spend $3-$4k per year minimum or the build of wear gets out of hand quick....watch out for suspension: front tension rods, upper/ lower a arms.
Remember the older 90-93 were built better than the newer ones.
I have owned 2 1992's and now own a 1997. I find the same engine and tranny, rear end, and suspension 92.3/97 pretty much the same car. The 92's gave me many aged related problems I have not experienced with the 97.
First the correct fluid level check is hot (very hot) engine running on level ground.
Second dropping the pan does not release more fluid than opening the drain plug, both should drain 2 liters, or just above a quart.
Third the only logical reason for dropping tran pan is to access the permanent re-usable filter and clean it.
I ran into problems from incorrect earlier posts indicating that a pan drop releases more than 2 liters. This caused me to overfill after pan drop. I am not sure what the overfill caused but the car is fine now after a trip to the dealer.
The level was up and down and inaccurate after fluid change. I drained it again and put back the correct amount to achieve proper level. this also did not work.
I brought car to the dealer and was informed that the drain plug was stripped and fluid was leaking out. I was surprised as there was no fluid on floor under car ever, or as told under pressure on highway the leak only occurs, which would leave a trace of fluid on the under carriage. I approved the change of the pan with new drain plug ($295.00, reasonable) and ever since the tranny is fine.
I also heeded the advice of Q45MAN and changed the power steering fluid and cleaned screens ($300.00, pricey I thought) while auto was at dealer.
The 97 is my daily driver and I really enjoy the car!
{so a 5 newer car should have few age problems}
Obviously you have not examined the front suspension check out the tension rods, and upper a arms. The 90 lasted forever, after 95 we are seeing early failure [150,000 miles].
We have 3 customers with over [not much but over] 300,000 miles on 90 LS400.
The nice thing is they did improve the brakes.
"The '95 LS400 represented the first major overhaul for what Kazuo Okamoto, chief engineer of the '95 LS400, referred to as the "cherished child" in the Lexus/Toyota world.
Interestingly, the '95 car went on a diet, losing some 95 kilograms (210 pounds).
[[ 6% weight reduction was primarily removing [redesigning] the over designed components that never failed]].
On the other hand, that year the Lexus engineers made the body significantly stiffer - which allowed for more fine-tuning of the suspension, resulting in improved handling." {at the expense of longevity}
Overall length stayed exactly the same, while the wheelbase increased by 35 millimetres (1.4 inches) to 2,850 mm (112.2 in.).
but it is only a guess. It still may not be the problem. I guess my question is should I take my chances and have the part replaced? The car has 127M miles and this will make almost $4000 we have spent in a month's time. We have replaced PS pump, timing belt, water pump all since 95,000 miles. This makes a total of over $7000 spent in 30M mile span. My husband is pretty disgusted and we are ready to get rid of the car as we are not particularly impressed with the way the dealership has handled things either. They had the car two days without beginning the work and we had to call them to find out what was going on. Very poor communication. I had car in again on 12/20 and this is when they suggested it might need this part, but the computer module was showing no malfunction problems.
I might add that all maint. etc has been done on schedule, we are original owners but when is enough enough? This was my first Lexus and overall have been very pleased but also feel that maintenance is very high since this dealer is only one in the area.
Thanks for your input!