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Lexus LS: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • garyh1garyh1 Member Posts: 394
    LS430 DVD Nav sys - how do I turn off the beginning warning screen when I start the car?

    As far as anyone knows, it can't be done (other than by pressing "I Agree" each time). Blame Toyota's lawyers.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    The only way I know is to open the nav DVD drive door. I rarely use the nav so I just leave it that way.
  • rcf8000rcf8000 Member Posts: 619
    My dealer charged me $662 including sales tax to install the system in my '05 LS. I had previously taken my car to an after-market installer, but they couldn't do an install with a direct connection to the radio. I didn't want a radio-frequency connection. In retrospect, the factory installation is much nicer from a user interface standpoint than an after-market unit, and I recommend that you go ahead and get the factory unit installed, even though it costs double what an after-market unit would cost.
  • dadcatdadcat Member Posts: 29
    If you do a search for "Leaking LCD" several previous posts will come up with a replacement solution. Previous post #'s 1517 and 1435 are informative. I had mine repaired by Mikado several years ago.
  • pjekoopjekoo Member Posts: 14
    I have a 2005 LS430. I noticed the antilock brakes activating when not really needed. When I'm going 80mph, and I step on the brake slightly harder than moderate, I get the pulsating vibration. I don't think the brakes are anywhere close to being locked up. This happens more when I'm going down hill, and does NOT happen if I step on the brakes moderately. Does anyone have the same experience?
  • pjekoopjekoo Member Posts: 14
    Another problem I have is that at certain speeds (slow), the wood trim at the bottom center of the dash will make a buzzing vibration. I pulled it out and added some foam tape around the mounting pins. This quiet it down somewhat. Does anyone have the same problem? Also, a big disappointment is that when I pulled out this piece, I noticed the wood trims are fake (they are plastic). I checked the other wood trims and I think they are all fake wood. Somehow, I read somewhere that the LS430 had real wood, but I guess not. By the way, I have the custom Luxury with the "Aged Walnut".
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    My 02 doesn't have either syndrome - but I'm a bit preturbed about the "plood" (read: fake wood) you have discovered. Are you sure it's not just real wood, plastic coated for durability? Because, I'll be equally appalled if you're right. Mine however, does not vibrate. Cabin is quiet as a morgue.....
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    At those speeds what you most likely hearing/feeling is the automatic brake pressure apportioning, sounds like ABS but "lighter" more moderate pulsing.

    Worse going down a hill with the road slightly wet.
  • rgswrgsw Member Posts: 333
    Quote from the Lexus LS430 web site:
    Luxurious Appointments
    The interior of the LS hosts an abundance of genuine leather and rich wood trim. Both the steering wheel and shift knob are graced with wood and leather, and the audio controls are ergonomically integrated into the steering wheel for added convenience.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    No way is that plastic - but I'm sure it's plastic coated for protection from scratches. The Cadillac DeVille has wood trim also, and the plastic coating tends to peel off, exposing the wood behind it. In a Lexus, that shouldn't happen, but I won't believe it's plastic, until I've pulled off a piece of the door trim, and autopsied it.
  • pjekoopjekoo Member Posts: 14
    The bottom center piece is easy to pull out (the piece that contains the seat heater control knobs, it pulls straight out). Take a look at it and tell us. I had a 91' LS400 and that was real wood, but this piece definately is plastic (very nice plastic). I don't think it's plastic coated wood either. It looks plastic all the way to me. I will email Lexus and get a final answer on this.
  • pjekoopjekoo Member Posts: 14
    I was right, all Lexus wood trims are made of plastic. I'm sorry to disappoint you, but this is what Lexus wrote back to me:

    Due to certain characteristics of wood (weight, warping, etc), all of our wood trims are made from plastic.

    If you require further assistance, please respond to this e-mail, or contact Lexus Customer Satisfaction at 1-800-255-3987, Monday through Friday, 5:00 am to 6:00 pm, or Saturday, 7:00 am to 4:00 pm, Pacific Standard Time.

    Sincerely,
    Lexus Customer Satisfaction
  • garyh1garyh1 Member Posts: 394
    I was right, all Lexus wood trims are made of plastic. I'm sorry to disappoint you, but this is what Lexus wrote back to me:

    Due to certain characteristics of wood (weight, warping, etc), all of our wood trims are made from plastic.

    Something is terribly wrong here. Look at the 2005 LS large-size brochure, and it references "genuine wood" in many places. For example, "choose from either golden bird's-eye maple, walnut or antique walnut wood ..."; "rich premium leather and burnished wood trim can be found on everything from the steering wheel to the door panels"; and "Genuine bird's-eye maple, burled walnut or antiqued walnut and leather interior trim".

    If it is only wood-grained plastic, then Lexus should be on the lookout for a class action fraud lawsuit. But I don't believe they would be that stupid. When car manufacturers use plastic, they always refer to it as "wood-grained trim", not "genuine wood".

    If that email you quote is truly for real, then there must be some misunderstanding of what the writer meant by "trim", or they simply didn't know what they were talking about. Or someone is attempting to pull all of our collective legs.
  • pjekoopjekoo Member Posts: 14
    The email is for reals. I will forward it to you for your evaluation. Maybe the fake wood trims look so real that they fooled the marketing dept too, or the engineering dept forgot to tell the Marketing dept that. I also notice the wood grain differ from car to car, very clever.
  • garyh1garyh1 Member Posts: 394
    Received the email you sent me, thanks. All I can say is that I have to believe the person who wrote it is wrong. I notice it came from "toyota_cares@toyota.com"; I certainly believe all the "wood-grained trims" in Toyotas are plastic, including perhaps the Japanese model of the LS equivalent (Celsior). But in the US Lexus LS? Can't be all plastic. As you noted, just making all the grains different in different cars (multiple pressings of the same piece) would cost more than using real wood!

    Certainly wouldn't be the first time an employee unintentionally gave out incorrect information on behalf of their employer. That's a more likely case than a company lying about its materials.

    As I said previously, if there is no real wood in the LS, this could be the first class action case that I will have ever supported the plaintiffs attorneys for bringing.
  • vchengvcheng Member Posts: 1,284
    ... is made from a thin veneer of genuine wood, with a heavy dose of impregnated plasticisers to prevent shattering in case of impact, and covered by a heavy lacquer coat. This prepared veneer is then bent into shape, and glued on top of a plastic carrier that provides the mounting clips and brackets.

    So both statements referenced above are partly correct.
  • famwaldfamwald Member Posts: 114
    Nothing would surprise me. Many athletic shoes are marketed as "leather" but they are a man-made leather. Synthetic. Plastic. Petroleum-based. Never saw a cow.

    "The only difference between rape and rapture is salesmanship." --- unknown
  • garyh1garyh1 Member Posts: 394
    Thanks, vcheng, for another technically sophisticated answer. That makes perfect sense.

    OK, care to share with us why you know so much about these matters? Have you worked as a automotive tech, engineer, sales, executive; or are you just self-taught? Time to come clean!
  • vchengvcheng Member Posts: 1,284
    ... but then I'll have to kill you!
  • firsttimer5firsttimer5 Member Posts: 16
    Dear Paul29,

    Thank you so much for your smart reply & sorry for the late reply, as Thanksgiving vacation & family affairs have required lots of my time lately.

    Please let me shed some light on the issues you have brought up:
    1. I have new battery in the car (about 6 month old).
    2. When the problem appears, all I hear is clicks, so I
    believe you were saying I have a problem between the
    key switch and the starter, including both, which makes
    lots of sense.
    3. I do not have a problem of "turning over and not
    starting" or "slow cranking". When it finally turns
    over, the engine is starting.

    This morning I had the most serious problem to date. Tried to start about 100 times and got only clicks. Tried to jump start from my wife's car, and of course it didn't help, because my battery is charged. Called AAA and told them I needed help to start, so they sent a guy in a van with a carry-on battery. He knew right away that jump-start would not do it, so he sat behind the wheel and within 3 tries started the car. When I asked him what he did, he said he "wiggled" the key in the ignition, which makes me think maybe the ignition assembly (?) needs to be replaced???

    The car was OK throughout the day, let's see what tomorrow brings...

    What is your take on this?

    Thanks again for your help and happy holidays!!!
  • firsttimer5firsttimer5 Member Posts: 16
    Dear Bildow,

    Thank you for your advice and sorry for the late reply. Please see my previous post replying to paul29 regarding the same issue.

    The battery is rather new and Vista Lexus of Woodland Hills, CA quoted me $800 over the phone (I'm sure the total would be closer to what you have indicated). I have an independent and experienced mechanic, who can do it for about $500 - $600, as the part is about $300 and labor is about 3 - 4 hours. I am waiting for his final quote now. However, it may be the ignition that's causing the problem.

    The biggest problem is that the mechanics need to see the problem duplicated to analyze it, but it happens only sporadically - once a week, once in a few days. When it happens, I can't drag a mechanic to my house or office and when I bring the car in, it starts without a problem!!! If they run an electrical system test, everything shows great!

    It's a real dilema, because if it's the ignition, why should I throw away a $1,000 on a starter?

    Any ideas?

    Thanks & happy holidays!
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Sorry.....

    In that case it really does sound like a dead short on only one winding of the starter. If by pure happenstance the starter stopped on that particular commutator segment when you last used it then it will exhibit the very symptom/problem you describe.

    Even a shorted winding will provide some minor level of rotational force so with enough "clicks" the short will sometimes rotate out of place.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    But keep in mind....

    A friend of mine picked up a brand new Ferrari Scarletti here in Seattle and within days drove it to Daytona. Along the way, SFO, LA, he had numerous instances of non-starting and Ferrari service not finding ANY problem.

    The evening after driving it, successfully, on the track at Daytona it did it again. Ferrari trucked it to Orlando where they discovered the chassis end of the battery cable had never been fully tightened.

    And your problem is NOT w3ithin the ignition circuit. The starter solenoid is clicking on and off because when it engages the load is too much for the battery/cable/connections to carry and the voltage is dropping below the level that can hold the starter solenoid engaged.

    The problem can even be a poor/broken connection inside the battery itself. If the problem began shortly after installing that new battery I would check that first by substituting a good battery.
  • firsttimer5firsttimer5 Member Posts: 16
    Dear wwest,

    Thank you for your quick response.

    Are you saying there is a short between the ignition & the starter, or maybe in the battery chasis?

    Thanks & happy holidays!
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    The ignition circuit is doing its job, engaging the starter solenoid. The starter solenoid will not remain engaged since the battery/starter circuit cannot support the current flow required.

    The most common cause is dirty or corroded battery terminals and that for some reason most often occurs in the early spring. Second would be a discharged or defective battery.
  • paul29paul29 Member Posts: 178
    There can be two sources of the clicking as there are two relays in the starting circuit , it also depends on your level of hearing and experience on knowing typical sounds . The LS starting system has a starter relay which in turn activates the main solinoid relay on the starter . The 1st starter relay is in the No2 junction block ( large fuse box behind the battery ) I would suggest you either check ( if you have the equipment ) or just replace this small starter relay first , yourself on principle , no sense paying a mechanic x$ to plug in a $20-25 part , ( the location is shown under the box cover ). If you still have the problem then you will have to go to the starter . As has been stated the ign sw is ok , it is activating one or both of the relays and that is all that the start position on the sw is supposed to do.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Heads UP!

    The problem is not likely to be ANY relay. The continuous clicking is occuring because when the starter solenoid engages, the battery itself or the battery circuit cannot handle the load and so the solenoid drops out due to the drop in "battery" voltage. As soon as the solenoid contacts open the battery voltage rises and now the cycle repeats......

    I doubt if anyone could hear the smallish relay clicking and it likely doesn't have enough current load anyway.

    Whereas the clicking of the huge, relatively speaking, starter solenoid can be heard quite readily.
  • paul29paul29 Member Posts: 178
    RE heads up : I took into consideration ( re post 1847 )that the car was jump started and it did not make any difference . The jumper cables are attached to the outside of the battery cable clamps , thereby the installed battery posts and terminals if corroded , were effectively bypassed . I assumed one click per try of the key as per the post, you are assuming multiple clicks per try of the key, that is the next question . To expand on the bad connection aspect a voltage drop test should be done between the positive end cable clamp and the cable itself and the neg cable clamp and cable itself and also the neg cable and ground . Keep in mind that this car has been looked at by the dealer and mechanic/s with the electrical system having been checked out , your assumption should have been picked up on immediately by even an inexperienced mechanic . Firsttimmer5 is only trying to verify the mechanics diagnosis , we can only take him from the key to the starter and all points between must be checked before the manifold comes off $$$.
  • firsttimer5firsttimer5 Member Posts: 16
    Wow guys (paul29 & wwest)!

    I am humbled and impressed by the time you dedicate to try and help me out - I'm really touched. Although I'm an idiot when it comes to mechanics and especially the electrical field, and do not understand some of the stuff you are discussing, please be sure I am taking notes!!!

    Let me clarify some more things and narrow the guessing game (and again, thanks in advance to anything you post in reply):

    1. The battery is new and the terminals are NOT corroded.
    2. There is only one click per key turn and a pretty loud
    one.
    3. The car has NOT been inspected by the dealer, although
    an independent mechanic looked at it briefly. Because
    the problem was not duplicated, he talked about voltage
    drop, but asked me if I wanted to replace the starter...

    Most important thing is, since my encounter with the AAA guy yesterday morning, I am doing what he did: "Wiggling" the key while trying to start the car. Today I had a few "clicking" instances, so I wiggled the key while turning it in the ignition switch and Voila! the car started.

    This makes me think (again) that the problem is in the ignition.
  • paul29paul29 Member Posts: 178
    Just so I understand , you turn the key to the start position and get a loud click , now you wiggle the key in the start position and it sometimes starts . Question : when you wiggle the key do you get extra clicks . You can actually see what the ign sw start position contacts are doing by removing the start relay (in the box behind the battery) hooking a multimeter or a simple 12v circuit test light to terminals 1 (pos) and 3 (neg) in the socket . The starter solinoid won't click or the motor turn over with this relay removed . but you can play with the ign switch any way you want and you will get a visual indication of what the switch contacts are doing . If the meter shows approx 12-14v steady or the light stays on constant with the ign sw in start position then the ign switch is good at this time . You may have a solution but I personally think the main starter solinoid contacts and/or contact plate are bad ( pitted from arcing ) or secondly you have a problem in a starter winding . The fact that the main starter solinoid is moving to the contacts( this is your click sound )would lead one to a problem with the contacts or the starter motor itself . You can have your mechanic do a voltage drop test on the points stated previously and see if he agrees with the rest of this.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Turn the headlights on with them shining against something you can see their brightness on. Now if the headlights dim significantly then the starter circuit is engaged but the starter isn't turning because by happenstance its on the shorted winding.
  • firsttimer5firsttimer5 Member Posts: 16
    Dear Paul29,

    Question : when you wiggle the key do you get extra clicks.
    Answer: No.

    I will try to follow up on your instructions with my mechanic in the next few days.

    Thank you!
  • firsttimer5firsttimer5 Member Posts: 16
    Dear wwest,

    There is totally no effect whatsoever on the headlights. These Xenon lights are as bright as ever.

    Thank you!
  • frankie33frankie33 Member Posts: 28
    A spilled cup of coffee, on brand new jeans, has caused a blue stain to appear on the tan leather seat of our 2005 LS430. Foam Leather cleaner didn't work, neither did charcoal lighter fluid. (suggested by a detailer) Please, anyone have any suggestions?
  • dadcatdadcat Member Posts: 29
    Holding or wiggling the key while in the start position may be helping the starter solenoid contacts to break through the oxidation/pitting of the contacts. The bottom line (which you don't want to hear) is that your starter needs to be replaced.
    My '92 LS400 exhibited the same problem in '96 that you have until I had the starter replaced for $800 at Lexus service.
  • firsttimer5firsttimer5 Member Posts: 16
    Dear Paul29,

    My mechanic stopped by my office this afternoon and we took the start relay out of box. When I tried to start, there was no loud click and nothing happened.

    My mechanic says that if he would run a voltage test while the problem is no present, everything will show perfect (I had Firestone run an electrical system check and all was good), because if you run this test when the problem is not present (not duplicated), you can't know what causing it.

    By the way, when the car clicks but doesn't start, I wiggle the key while turning it, i.e. during the actual motion of turning the ignition key. It then starts.
  • rgswrgsw Member Posts: 333
    This suggestion may be more expensive than you want to pay. I had a crack in the driver's seat bottom on an 04 LS430 (non perferated leather) and the dealer tried to touch up the crack but that did not work. They decided to replace the seat bottom cover. Don't have a clue as how much they would want to do that, but it is an option.
  • famwaldfamwald Member Posts: 114
    I found this tip on another edmunds.com forum two years ago: Depending on how large the stain is, you might try some rubbing/isopropryl (sp?) alcohol on a Q-tip. Test it first in an obscure place to be sure the leather color won't come off. It works great on ballpoint ink stains. Don't know what it will do on a fabric dye.
  • sv7887sv7887 Member Posts: 351
    Hi all,
    Usually you can use a diluted solution of Woolite. If that doesn't work you can use Fast Orange Cleaner. A leather restorer told me he uses that to clean surfaces before he re-dyes them.

    Hope this helps,
    SV
  • paul29paul29 Member Posts: 178
    The exercise of removing the relay in the box was to give you a place to easily access the the circuit , attach the suggested test equipment , and test your wiggly key theory , this would give you a visual indication of what you are actually doing with the key . Nothing more /nothing less . You could take off the steering column covers and do the same thing , but this is a much easier access point . Just trying to show you that it is unlikely to be the key in a polite way. Post 1862 is describing what I , also , believe is happening . To get a little backgroud on this perspective , find a alternator /starter repair/rebuild shop or business and ask them to show you an opened up starter solenoid with failed contacts and contact plate ( this is a common repair for any vehicle and for most Toyota's the parts are available separately I'm not suggesting you just replace these parts , this starter is in an expensive place to access so you would want a very good rebuild or new one ) if you show an interest in their expertise they will be glad to explain how a car reacts with this type of failure ( this and perhaps secondly a problem in the motor itself ) You will probably find he will tell you your own story .
  • firsttimer5firsttimer5 Member Posts: 16
    Dear Paul29,

    You & the other forum members who replied to my problem were a lot of help & inspiration. I thank you all.

    What I think I should do - since everything is pointing to the starter itself - is take the car to my mechanic and have him access the starter to find out if the contacts are dirty. If they are, I'll ask him to clean them & put everything back together and I will give it another shot to see if the problem has been solved.

    If the contacts seem to look clean, I will order the $300 starter from the Lexus dealer (they give you a rebuilt one, anyway, according to my mechanic who installed one on a 1993 LS400, but at least it comes with the dealer's warranty).

    Does it sound like a good plan, or should I try something else prior to that? Remember, if I cannot duplicate the problem, a voltage drop test will come out perfect.

    Thanks again!
  • paul29paul29 Member Posts: 178
    I wouldn't clean the contacts , replace them . While you have the starter out you can get it checked at a alt/starter shop . Now another angle , if the clock is ticking on your mechanic , it may be cheaper to have a rebuilt sitting there and just replace it , I would expect a rebuilt from Lexus to be of the best quality , it will have new contacts ,brushes , bearings and the commutator turned or a new armature , all clean and pretty. I do all this type of repair myself so labor is not in the equation , it looks like you have to include it . The call is yours . To give you an idea what you will be seeing when you open it up , go here: http://yotarepair.com/startercontacts.html .
  • whitebirchwhitebirch Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a CPO 02 LS430. Everything is in good condition. I recently noticed there was a wind noise when I was traveling on the freeway.

    The Lexus dealer's mechanic said we are hearing wind noise from the outside since LS is a quiet car.

    Is the wind noise normal during high speed on freeway?
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Well - I've had mine up to 100 mph, and there's absolutely no wind noise. Has this car ever had a frontal impact?
  • famwaldfamwald Member Posts: 114
    "Is the wind noise normal during high speed on freeway?"

    There is also a higher level of noise when I drove the car faster. For example, when I am on the interstate, I definitely have to increase the volume on the sound system. Quite a lot.

    If it's windy outside I can tell a difference, too.

    I don't think any car is totally soundproof. Our LS is the quietest car we have ever owned.
  • firsttimer5firsttimer5 Member Posts: 16
    Thank you Paul29 - you have been a great help!

    Happy Holidays!
  • bildowbildow Member Posts: 100
    I saw your message and would also recommend that you go to Lexus on the starter, when you replace starter in a lexus 400 series the V8 they take out the whole top of the motor the intake manifold and this is a big operation and even though some independent lexus repair shops save a little money on this jog I would trust it to Lexus. When they replace the starter it has to meet a special requirement for dependability and the lexus motor is like no motor in the world today. It is far better than just about all of them. Remember the lexus can go 300,000 to 500,000 miles and keep ticking. :shades:
  • duval1duval1 Member Posts: 30
    Have 2002 LS430 can anyone provide me with step-by-step instructions on updating NAV system disc. New update arriving this week.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    The unit is in the trunk, on the passenger side, under the matt. Keep your key in the ON position, unscrew the unit, lift it up, open the door, eject the DVD, insert the new DVD, close the door, screw it back down, cover it, and you're good to go. Or so I hear. Mine should be here on the 11th, I'm told.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    I received mine today - and just installed it. Works perfectly, as promised. Installation went just as I described above, I'm happy. Also, presets were retained, so no need to re-program all preferences, etc. :P
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