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Lexus LS: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • pj2323pj2323 Member Posts: 43
    lexus dealership told me they had rebuilt compreessors only. any where to buy a new one for a 1992 ls?
  • q45manq45man Member Posts: 416
    The 98 is the better buy since it has the new 5 speed transmission and varible cams to increase power.....as a side the EGR is integrated into the engine so you will have much less carbon build up in throttle body/intake runners.....should lower the cost of long term maintenance! Intergrated single coil per plug do away with spark plug wires another maintenance item saving you money.
    Whether these items will ever payback the $4,000 more the 98 usually cost is unknown but there are 100s of other small technology improvements in the 98 compared to the 95-97 series.
    Mileage within reason is not a concern on an LS400 as they will go 300,000 miles with proper maintenance. A 98 with 70-100,000 miles is a good buy if it wasn't abused and properly maintained.
    But always have an expert look for body damage as the rebuilders are so good you'll never discover it!
  • q45manq45man Member Posts: 416
    There are various grades of rebuilt compressors the one the dealer sells are great and will last double or triple or quadruple the ones you find a national auto parts stores. Sure the factory ones lasted 100,000 miles but they cost twice to 3 times what quality rebuilds do.
    Why would any company keep making a new component when it has been superceeded by 4 newer designs.
    I assume your system is R12 which hasn't been used in new cars since 1993.
  • pj2323pj2323 Member Posts: 43
    no it has r134a. it was converted when i put hoses and evaporator core. everthing has been replaced except the compressor. it works fine, but it makes a whinning noise after the other parts was replaced.
  • marwankwmarwankw Member Posts: 6
    hi, the vibration you have might not be from the transmission ,it can be from engine mount failure or engine under cover (metallic cover) vibration, these two problems can cause vibration while shifting the gear to D or R, but you'll not feel it while driving.
  • pj2323pj2323 Member Posts: 43
    my a/c compressor became noisy after the evaporator core and hoses was replaced. the R12 was replaced with R134A. did this cause the compressor to start making the noise?any way to correct it? will the compressor freeze up and damage the belt? thanks
  • jav1120jav1120 Member Posts: 8
    I bought from a lexus dealer and the car is certified, they were asking $35,900 on the Lexus web site site, I got it for $31,000. I used the web site and auto trader and saw cars around the country with this price, went and took a test drive make an offer and I stuck to it for 2 days of ego. over the interned and phone calls.

    My way to ego. is to stick to your price and keep saying no and walk away from it when they don't meet it. There will always be another car.
    This was a good deal not a world beater.
  • jav1120jav1120 Member Posts: 8
    The car is going in next week so I will let you know. My LS400 rocks when the car is put into D or R when cold, almost like the cold idle is too high. I will give them your ideas thanks.
  • q45manq45man Member Posts: 416
    To meet emission regs [a faster cat warm up and light off] cold idle is computer control up to speeds around 1200 -1400 rpm a function of cylinder temp as measured by the coolant temp.
    When everything reaches 120-140F the car is ready to drive....strange things happen if you chose to drive away cold disregarding the warm up time!
    Not to mention the excess wear caused by cold oil!
  • dz8888dz8888 Member Posts: 1
    has anyone replaced the power steering pump with a re-manufactured one? could you please let me know how it runs and how much it costs?
  • rdwcdw1rdwcdw1 Member Posts: 7
    Dear Q45 man we know how the idle system works you have posted more than once it is the same with all cars, the question is why the idle is so high until the coolant temp has to be so high this is not like other cars, they go into closed loop and idle drops way before the coolant temp is up, I believe it is the way Lexus programed the ECM we are just trying to find out if all the models and which years do it, it is a irritating thing to have on any car, I for one am going to add a switch to add a resistor to the coolant sensor to bypass the sensor when cold.
  • mhartlessmhartless Member Posts: 11
    I have a 1992 LS400 with 124kmi....the speedometer is starting to die, i.e. sometimes it works and sometimes it just stays at 0mph. Also the O/D light on the dash sometimes flashes which seems to point to an electrical problem.

    Anyone out there know what the problem is and how much it costs to fix it? I love this car!
  • sierrassierras Member Posts: 2
    I've read through all the posts prior to purchase, so I know what to expect.

    The Time/Temp LCD is fine but not readable at night. From what I've read, it sounds as if the bulbs may be replacable. Is that true? If so, do I need to take out the entire unit, as if replacing the unit, just to replace the bulbs?

    I appreciate any input. Thanks
  • hyperopthyperopt Member Posts: 55
    Sieras,

    Yes, you will have to take the entire temp/display controller out as if you have to replace the entire unit. Furthermore, you'll have to partially disassemble the unit to get to the light bulbs. Don't be intimated, the whole job isn't that difficult especially if you have proper tools (or self-made tools).
  • hyperopthyperopt Member Posts: 55
    rdwcdw1,
    My gem is also suffering from excessive high idle speed when cold, which is irritating at times.
    I have been thinking about ways to trick the computer into lowering the idle speed when cold via two methods:
    1) temporarily control the idle speed air-bypass valve but not sure if LS400 has such a unit, or
    2) temporarily control coolant sensing temperature(your proposed method), but afraid this would cause the engine to run rough temporarily.
    Please, let's know how your mod turn out.
    If anyone else has any other mod ideas, please post.
  • sierrassierras Member Posts: 2
    hyperopt,

    Thanks for the help & input.
    Additional Questions:
    1) Do I need to remove the wood plate from around the shifter, prying up & back from the cup holder? I saw a post indicating that the shifter plate does not need to be removed.
    2) Air vents- any tricks for removal?
    3) Partial disassembly of unit? Is it designed for partial disassembly, or does it need some coaxing, cutting, drilling or other?
    4) Any tricky, special, or "hand-made" tools reccommended?
    4) Do the bulbs just pop out & in? I saw a post where the person drilled holes in the unit and then tied into the wiring to get it lit~ sounded a bit odd.

    Thanks again for everyones help and tips.
  • lovemylexlovemylex Member Posts: 3
    My 1998 Lexus SC400 has the same problem that you were talking about Brad. At any point in time while driving I push down the gas and the car does not go. The drive train looses power. When you turn the car off and on it is fine. The lexus dealership just put in the second TPS sensor today saying the first TPS they put in two weeks ago was defective. I laughed to myself because I remembered you saying that they said the same thing to you. Anyway, I am hopeful that the second TPS sensor will fix the problem but I doubt it will. I was wondering if you ever got your problem resolved and if they replaced the computer.
  • hyperopthyperopt Member Posts: 55
    Sierras,
    Here are answers to your questions from my experience.
    1) I did not remove the wood plate from shifter for I didn't see the need to do it, but you may have to.
    2) Bought an L-bracket from Home Depot. Cut it into 2 pieces with same dimensions: 1" long X 1/4" wide on the L-edge which will go under the air vent face X 1/16" thick. I inserted the one L on top the other L on bottom of air vent, then hold the exposed part of the L to pry & pull out the vent.
    3) What I meant was the entire unit must be removed from the car, then the LCD face needed to be removed. You may have to remove few more screws from the LCD face to get to the bulbs. No special tools here.
    4) I made an L for the vent because I didn't want to use screwdrivers and risk denting or cracking the vent face. The most difficult task in this entire procedure is removing the ashtray housing(perhaps this is why others chose to remove the wood around the shifter area and remove the ashtray housing from below).
    Remove the ashtray and put it aside.
    Look closely at the left & right side(right behind the wood) of the cavity created ashtray removal, you will find small indentations one on each side. I made a "hook" that fits the indentations from a piece of metal rod I found around the house, and after some grinding and bending, I used it to pull out the ashtray housing. It took considerable force to pull out the housing but remember to pull evenly alternating between left & right sides.
    5) Wiring? Strange! The bulbs sit in their sockets. Just unscrew the sockets and that's it.

    If you decided to do the bulb replacement yourself, please let's know how it went. Goodluck!
  • hyperopthyperopt Member Posts: 55
    lovemylex,

    I am curious...when you say "power train looses...", do you mean the engine revs but the car doesn't go or the engine doesn't rev period.
  • pj2323pj2323 Member Posts: 43
    you did not answer my question in post #258. still waiting for the answer.
  • lovemylexlovemylex Member Posts: 3
    hyperopt:

    What I mean by "drive train looses power" is I push down the gas and the car does not respond. The engine will not rev or anything. It is a very weird thing.
  • ls400boils400boi Member Posts: 10
    I have an LS400 with 184K. It's on its original engine and transmission. The previous owner did all the 30, 60, and 90K mile services. I love the car and I want to keep it running well, but $1000-1400 for the 180K service is more than I can afford as a college student. Both the timing belt and water pump were replaced at 158K. Beyond these two major items, what should I do? A local mechanic said that there was no real need to adjust the valves (the dealer recommends this), but that he would just change the air filter, and the spark plugs. He wanted $200-400. Is that enough? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  • akboy37akboy37 Member Posts: 7
    Hey, I am a proud new owner of my Grandparents prestinely kept white 1990 LS 400 (72,000 miles), and I LOVE the car!!! My dad however broke the antenna when he forgot to turn the radio off in an auto carwash. I have a new one on the way, and was wondering if anyone has replaced one of these before, and how much of a job it is? Anyway, any information would be great before I go and mess something else up on the car. Thanks.
  • mkwamemkwame Member Posts: 21
    You can purchase the Dens spark plugs yourself at the nexus dealer almost $13.00 for one you'll need 8 of them or buy from your local toyota dealer for $8.16each. The Air cleaner is about $28.00 at the nexus dealer; very easy to replace yourself. I just did all required 120k maintenance on 96 ls400. Changing the plugs are not too difficult. Spend $100.00 on parts and do it yourself. You get to know your vehicle when you do yourself.
  • q45manq45man Member Posts: 416
    "my a/c compressor became noisy after the evaporator core and hoses was replaced. the R12 was replaced with R134A. did this cause the compressor to start making the noise?any way to correct it? will the compressor freeze up and damage the belt? thanks
    Why would you replace the R12 with R134a? the condenser and compressor will be under sized if you expect equal cooling. What year model [LS?] compressors usually only have an 8-9 year life at best.
  • q45manq45man Member Posts: 416
    You only need to adjust the shims if an individual [1,2,3 of 32] is has the tapping noise.
    The early ones were so floaty that it's hard to tell if normal or all the shocks are worn out usually replaced by 100k. There are issues with power steering pumps, ac system, front suspension,window regulators, and interior display by 180k.
    You have to keep the intake, throttle body and plenum free of EGR build [it makes a pile of gunk behinf the TB].
  • q45manq45man Member Posts: 416
    Still don't understand what the problem is with having a 1400-1500 idle for 5 minutes while the car warms up enough to drive away in a mode which will not damage the transmisssion and minimizes emissions by making sure the precats are warm enough for the O2 sensors to work.
    If you want to redesign it, that's your business but be aware you are comitting a Federal Felony by modifying the emission system and I sure wouldn't admit to it on the WEB.
  • rdwcdw1rdwcdw1 Member Posts: 7
    5 mins is way to long it is iritating to drive a car that takes so long for the idle to drop, this is the only car I have seen take so long for the idle to settle in, as far as the feds go come and get me.
  • hyperopthyperopt Member Posts: 55
    Idle speed at 1400-1500rpm isn't bad, but the problem is mine is higher than that especially in the winter(yes, even in Souther Cal). Many cars on the road today do not have such high idle for extend period of time, and if I want to make my car that way, it's a crime? I don't think so. It's true that it's a crime to mess with the emission system but whether or not the modification is a crime depends upon its impact on safety and the environment and not just the modification alone. I challenge anyone to find any safety issues and emission problems if and when I modify my car.
  • hyperopthyperopt Member Posts: 55
    You can find the same NippoDenso spark plugs at a lower price at local auto part stores than at Toyota/Lexus dealers.

    I find that keeping a close eye on your cars for any signs of problem and fix the problems when they arise, rather than having the mechanics tell you that you need blah...blah, are the best ways to reduce maintenance cost.
  • hyperopthyperopt Member Posts: 55
    If I recalled correctly, the procedure to change the mast was discussed on this thread, if not, go to http://server6.ezboard.com/bladman.html


    Changing the mast is simple if you can remove the mast nut(situated on body-exterior where the mast goes through). In fact, it might take longer to search for the replacement procedure on the net than it is to change the mast. Good luck!

  • pj2323pj2323 Member Posts: 43
    auto air of macon replaced the hoses & evaporator core,because they were leaking, and suggested I use R134a, because it is cheaper. this is a 1992 ls. I also have a 1996ls, with a noisy compressor. do all the compressors on lexus ls make a singing noise? i have had all the usual problems with the 92, but ac compressor is the only one on the 96.
  • q45manq45man Member Posts: 416
    Delivers at best 4F higher outlet temperature so the max cooling is about 10% less at best, the condenser is designed for R12 and the correct R134a condenser has much fine fins and tubes so a mismatched system may not cool even 80% as well.
    R12 is available for approximately $30 per pound and your system holds 2.2 pounds.
    Some how I think $65 extra is worth it especiallly in Macon, GA.
    Lack of proper maintenance [over and above what dealer suggests] is necessary to extend equipment life beyond 6-7 years. Hopefully you got a Toyota rebuilt compressor as the others usually last about 20 months.
  • fgrethelfgrethel Member Posts: 24
    Hi folks. I have read and re-read this forum several times. I am struck by how most of the problems experienced by others have been similar to those I have experienced. I have just recently "fixed" a mystical alternator problem (I had experienced the power steering problem years ago and had that fixed) that my previous mechanic could not diagnose even after several tows and over $1500 of diagnostic and work! They also sabotaged the car when they did a tune up and they did not properly attach the spark plug wiring. This caused some of the connectors to the plugs to burn out and the car idled very roughly. I found a new mechanic that figured out the alternator issue (I went through several batteries including one that went in a week!) and the rough idle. We also have replaced the engine computer with a salvage unit as I was getting random idiot lights displaying even though there are no codes that correspond to the problems indicated. Most problems went away--except now the traction light comes on and off at various intervals with no apparent rhyme or reason. It is driving me crazy. I have spent a small fortune on this car in the past year and one half, and I still have a great deal to do if I want to get it back into reasonable driving condition (it looks perfect), but my mechanic is stumped. Any ideas about what is happening or regarding the name of a fair minded Lexus mechanic in Phoenix, AZ? I have posted at the Lexus forum and I have had no replies. Thank you so much for your help.
  • hschenhschen Member Posts: 16
    I bought my first Lexas about a month ago. It's a 98 LS400 with VSC. I have 2 questions would like to ask you experts out there.
    1. My stock alum wheels will get pretty hot after few miles of driving. Tires did not get hot but the rim will. I cannot put my hand on it for more than a few seconds before my hand felt burning. My 4Runner wheels do not get this hot. Dealer checked and said it's normal. I am just wondering if any of you have hot wheels like mine. Do they all get hot? Maybe the hot summer in Phoenix was to blame.
    2. I just noticed the passenger side mirror moves down when I put in reverse, but the driver side mirror did not move. Is that normal? Shouldn't they moved at the same time?
    Thanks for your reply.
  • q45manq45man Member Posts: 416
    that people buy a $50,000 car and don't even consider the purchase of a set of factory service manuals specfic for the car...the best $200 investment you will ever make.
    If you learned to use a computer you can understand your car which is much simpler inside.
  • tp1953tp1953 Member Posts: 1
    I'm interested in buying a '95 to '98 year model LS400. Could someone comment on any trouble spots to look for? Thank You!
  • ls400boils400boi Member Posts: 10
    Much thanks to mkwame and q45man for getting back to me on my question. The interior display is still okay, as is the AC, window regulators, and and as far as I know, the power steering pump. I'm going to do most of the work myself, as mkwame suggested, but I'll have someone check out the front suspension. The car has the air suspension, so I'm worried about expensive repairs. I think that I should also have the transmission fluid replaced to get out any abrasive metal traces. Is that a good idea?
  • hschenhschen Member Posts: 16
    Bought used certified from Lexas. I don't know if the car has air suspension or not.
  • akboy37akboy37 Member Posts: 7
    I just noticed a vibration at around 2400rpm, it is kind of like a tire slightly out of balance, yet it seems to go away when the car is over 3000rpm...does this sound like the transmission problem (old type of fluid), or does it sound like something else may be wrong?? I am going to take it into the dealer (actually the T3 shop in Atlanta), within the next two weeks, but any insight would be appreciated. Thanks.
  • ls400boils400boi Member Posts: 10
    All LS400s with the air suspension will have a switch located to the left of the transmission gate, above the ECT/PWR switch, that controls the vehicle height between HIGH or NORM. The 1990-1994 (and LS430) have a selector for SPORT or NORM firmness control. I believe that in the 1995-1999 series this driver-selectable control was dropped for a simpler layout. However, you can still tell if your vehicle has the air suspension, because there should be a height indicator around the instrument cluster. If you see any pictogram indicating vehicle height, you have the air suspension. On my 1990 LS400 the vehicle's height status stays illuminated at all times.
  • ls400boils400boi Member Posts: 10
    I'm thinking that it might be a good idea for you to glance through your owner's manual... But about your mirrors... Yes, it is normal for the passenger side mirror to tilt in reverse. The idea is that you will be able to see the curb while reversing. Only the passenger side mirror does this because in 95% of times in North America, the curb is on your right-hand side.
  • hschenhschen Member Posts: 16
    Thanks for your answers. My 98 does not have air suspension. I bought mine only a couple of weeks ago as a certified Lexas. I just found out the rear passenger fender's contour is different from the driver side and there is paint inside the rear wheel wall. Apparently the body has been repaired but not to perfection. I'm taking it in next week to dealer. They did not tell me the car had accident. I don't know what they are going to do. The service director assured me that they will determine if the car is certifiable or not. Anybody has similar experience before?
  • ls400boils400boi Member Posts: 10
    It's disturbing to find that your car has been in an accident, particularly when it's a certified Lexus. I suspect that your car may have had a very minor fender bender because the body panel contour is off. That indicates that it probably was a dent or scratch that was just filled and repainted. It is unlikely that it is a "rebuilt" car, in which the safety and reliability would be compromised. You should take a close look around the rest of the vehicle for seams that don't match up and openings that are uneven. If you find these signs, you might want to go to an independent shop and ask them to look for evidence of frame damage. You can also run a carfax report at www.carfax.com to check for a salvage title from another state, although this report is no 100% guarantee. The chances of frame damage or a salvage title are very slim, so I wouldn't be too worried. But if you do these two things, you might have a good deal more peace of mind about the car. My advice to you would be to use the dealer's dishonesty as a bargaining chip in getting the panel repainted well. Most Lexus dealers are really concerned about customer satisfaction. A family member of mine had the same experience after buying a Volvo with 18,000 miles. After her complaints, the dealer did a free alignment and tire rotation. Good luck.
  • hschenhschen Member Posts: 16
    Yes, I have run Carfax and it's clean and no accident report on file. It most likely is a minor fender bender thing. I'm not worried about frame damage and I am sure Lexas will correct the fender to its perfect condition. The point was I was not told by the salesman that the car has body damage during price negotiation. I had specifically asked them that is there any bodywork being done and they said no. Lexas maybe didn't know it either. But the car value changes if it had body repaired. Do you agree? Anyway I will let you know what happen on next Monday.
  • ls400boils400boi Member Posts: 10
    Any certified car should have been throughly checked over. If you were able to spot the overspray in the wheel well, any mechanic would have also seen it. Remember that they did check the tires, wheels, brakes, and rear suspension - all items located near the damage. Normally, a salesman will not disclose minor body work. And he does not have a legal obligation to do so. However, if you asked about bodywork and he lied, then that's something else. Remember that he may not have noticed it, so it may be the vehicle inspector's fault. Regardless, the dealer should make it right. I doubt that the value of the vehicle is affected by a good repaint on just one body panel.
  • deacon1984deacon1984 Member Posts: 10
    I recently purchased a 1991 LS400. There is a vibration that only happens ocassionally, that sounds similar to what was described by akboy37. Has anyone else had this problem? I am also concerned that it may be a transmission problem. It does not seem to be as noticeable when the ECT is engaged. Any insight would be appreciated.
  • lexor2lexor2 Member Posts: 11
    I just got rid of my '90 LS400 and had what I think is the same brake problem as you do. This car had 154K and I bought it at 130K with pulsing brakes. In looking back over the previous owners maint. records I saw he had had three brake replacements and two front rotor replacements. He had all his work done at small shops since he lived in the sticks. I had the front rotors and pads replaced just recently as the fronts were singing a bit. The shop replaced with Lexus parts and 80% of the pulsing went away. I took the car back and they re-turned the rotors and about 95% of the pulsing went away. The shop explained that this puls or kind of a stutter seemed to be caused by over-sensitive ABS sensors. I could believe that. The repair with Lexus parts was nearly $600. One more tip for anyone with a bad idle. I use ST carburetor/inject or cleaner anytime I am planning a trip of over 200 miles. It cleans the injectors and improves performance noticeably. I am going on Thursday to pick up a '94 I bought on -bay. I have a list of five or six items that I glowed off this board that I will make special note of on the new car. they are: AS pump leakage, hemp & clock display at nite, A/I performance (check the schrader valve, it sometimes leaks), Air shocks (Gad, I hope not), and last but not least, shifting. Luck to all and thanks for your help. Sorry this was so long.
  • alan_salan_s Member Posts: 362
    I have a 1997 LS400 Coach Edition. It has 50K miles and is in excellent condition. I bought it as a Lexus Certified Pre Owned vehicle. I also have a vibration/noise problem. At around 50mph a dull rumbling starts and becomes louder and develops a vibration from about 55mph to about 65mph, and as speed increases the noise and vibration fades. This occurs in both 3rd and 4th gear. It feels like driving a standard transmission vehicle when the speed is too low for 4th gear.
    On deceleration, there is also a very slight rumbling sound as speed drops to around 40mph. The Lexus dealer says that there is no transmission problem and is unaware of any tranny fluid spec change. The manual shows a requirement for Type II fluid. The dealer balanced the wheels, which made no difference and then replaced the driveshaft. Still no difference. They are at a point where they don't know what the cause is. If anyone out there has had these problems and had them resolved by a dealer, please let me know who the dealer is, so that I can get my dealer in touch with them.
    The 128 Lexus CPO Inspection includes a check for "No noise or vibration" in order to pass the CPO test. Unless this is resolved soon, I am going to take the position with the dealer and Lexus, that the car did not pass the CPO test and should not have been sold to me as a CPO vehicle.
    Any help will be appreciated.
    Thanks all.
  • mkwamemkwame Member Posts: 21
    I would like to replace my front struts on 96 ls400. I've read somewhere on this forum that the upper plates must be replaced at the same time as well. My question is do I need to replace the upper plate?

    What is the upper plate anyway. My car has 114k
    when I go over bumps it feels like driving a Ego Tracker.
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