Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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Whether these items will ever payback the $4,000 more the 98 usually cost is unknown but there are 100s of other small technology improvements in the 98 compared to the 95-97 series.
Mileage within reason is not a concern on an LS400 as they will go 300,000 miles with proper maintenance. A 98 with 70-100,000 miles is a good buy if it wasn't abused and properly maintained.
But always have an expert look for body damage as the rebuilders are so good you'll never discover it!
Why would any company keep making a new component when it has been superceeded by 4 newer designs.
I assume your system is R12 which hasn't been used in new cars since 1993.
My way to ego. is to stick to your price and keep saying no and walk away from it when they don't meet it. There will always be another car.
This was a good deal not a world beater.
When everything reaches 120-140F the car is ready to drive....strange things happen if you chose to drive away cold disregarding the warm up time!
Not to mention the excess wear caused by cold oil!
Anyone out there know what the problem is and how much it costs to fix it? I love this car!
The Time/Temp LCD is fine but not readable at night. From what I've read, it sounds as if the bulbs may be replacable. Is that true? If so, do I need to take out the entire unit, as if replacing the unit, just to replace the bulbs?
I appreciate any input. Thanks
Yes, you will have to take the entire temp/display controller out as if you have to replace the entire unit. Furthermore, you'll have to partially disassemble the unit to get to the light bulbs. Don't be intimated, the whole job isn't that difficult especially if you have proper tools (or self-made tools).
My gem is also suffering from excessive high idle speed when cold, which is irritating at times.
I have been thinking about ways to trick the computer into lowering the idle speed when cold via two methods:
1) temporarily control the idle speed air-bypass valve but not sure if LS400 has such a unit, or
2) temporarily control coolant sensing temperature(your proposed method), but afraid this would cause the engine to run rough temporarily.
Please, let's know how your mod turn out.
If anyone else has any other mod ideas, please post.
Thanks for the help & input.
Additional Questions:
1) Do I need to remove the wood plate from around the shifter, prying up & back from the cup holder? I saw a post indicating that the shifter plate does not need to be removed.
2) Air vents- any tricks for removal?
3) Partial disassembly of unit? Is it designed for partial disassembly, or does it need some coaxing, cutting, drilling or other?
4) Any tricky, special, or "hand-made" tools reccommended?
4) Do the bulbs just pop out & in? I saw a post where the person drilled holes in the unit and then tied into the wiring to get it lit~ sounded a bit odd.
Thanks again for everyones help and tips.
Here are answers to your questions from my experience.
1) I did not remove the wood plate from shifter for I didn't see the need to do it, but you may have to.
2) Bought an L-bracket from Home Depot. Cut it into 2 pieces with same dimensions: 1" long X 1/4" wide on the L-edge which will go under the air vent face X 1/16" thick. I inserted the one L on top the other L on bottom of air vent, then hold the exposed part of the L to pry & pull out the vent.
3) What I meant was the entire unit must be removed from the car, then the LCD face needed to be removed. You may have to remove few more screws from the LCD face to get to the bulbs. No special tools here.
4) I made an L for the vent because I didn't want to use screwdrivers and risk denting or cracking the vent face. The most difficult task in this entire procedure is removing the ashtray housing(perhaps this is why others chose to remove the wood around the shifter area and remove the ashtray housing from below).
Remove the ashtray and put it aside.
Look closely at the left & right side(right behind the wood) of the cavity created ashtray removal, you will find small indentations one on each side. I made a "hook" that fits the indentations from a piece of metal rod I found around the house, and after some grinding and bending, I used it to pull out the ashtray housing. It took considerable force to pull out the housing but remember to pull evenly alternating between left & right sides.
5) Wiring? Strange! The bulbs sit in their sockets. Just unscrew the sockets and that's it.
If you decided to do the bulb replacement yourself, please let's know how it went. Goodluck!
I am curious...when you say "power train looses...", do you mean the engine revs but the car doesn't go or the engine doesn't rev period.
What I mean by "drive train looses power" is I push down the gas and the car does not respond. The engine will not rev or anything. It is a very weird thing.
Why would you replace the R12 with R134a? the condenser and compressor will be under sized if you expect equal cooling. What year model [LS?] compressors usually only have an 8-9 year life at best.
The early ones were so floaty that it's hard to tell if normal or all the shocks are worn out usually replaced by 100k. There are issues with power steering pumps, ac system, front suspension,window regulators, and interior display by 180k.
You have to keep the intake, throttle body and plenum free of EGR build [it makes a pile of gunk behinf the TB].
If you want to redesign it, that's your business but be aware you are comitting a Federal Felony by modifying the emission system and I sure wouldn't admit to it on the WEB.
I find that keeping a close eye on your cars for any signs of problem and fix the problems when they arise, rather than having the mechanics tell you that you need blah...blah, are the best ways to reduce maintenance cost.
Changing the mast is simple if you can remove the mast nut(situated on body-exterior where the mast goes through). In fact, it might take longer to search for the replacement procedure on the net than it is to change the mast. Good luck!
R12 is available for approximately $30 per pound and your system holds 2.2 pounds.
Some how I think $65 extra is worth it especiallly in Macon, GA.
Lack of proper maintenance [over and above what dealer suggests] is necessary to extend equipment life beyond 6-7 years. Hopefully you got a Toyota rebuilt compressor as the others usually last about 20 months.
1. My stock alum wheels will get pretty hot after few miles of driving. Tires did not get hot but the rim will. I cannot put my hand on it for more than a few seconds before my hand felt burning. My 4Runner wheels do not get this hot. Dealer checked and said it's normal. I am just wondering if any of you have hot wheels like mine. Do they all get hot? Maybe the hot summer in Phoenix was to blame.
2. I just noticed the passenger side mirror moves down when I put in reverse, but the driver side mirror did not move. Is that normal? Shouldn't they moved at the same time?
Thanks for your reply.
If you learned to use a computer you can understand your car which is much simpler inside.
On deceleration, there is also a very slight rumbling sound as speed drops to around 40mph. The Lexus dealer says that there is no transmission problem and is unaware of any tranny fluid spec change. The manual shows a requirement for Type II fluid. The dealer balanced the wheels, which made no difference and then replaced the driveshaft. Still no difference. They are at a point where they don't know what the cause is. If anyone out there has had these problems and had them resolved by a dealer, please let me know who the dealer is, so that I can get my dealer in touch with them.
The 128 Lexus CPO Inspection includes a check for "No noise or vibration" in order to pass the CPO test. Unless this is resolved soon, I am going to take the position with the dealer and Lexus, that the car did not pass the CPO test and should not have been sold to me as a CPO vehicle.
Any help will be appreciated.
Thanks all.
What is the upper plate anyway. My car has 114k
when I go over bumps it feels like driving a Ego Tracker.