Jeep Grand Cherokee Water Pump Problem

97veck97veck Member Posts: 1
I'm hoping I can get some help from someone with more knowledge than myself. I have a 97 Grand Cherokee with a 5.2 V8. The water pump shaft seal was bad. I had a friend visiting who was a little bored while I was at work, since he was a decent mechanic he went ahead and installed a new pump for me. He has went home and now I have a problem. When I run the truck it starts to overheat. The heater blows only cold air like as if there is no water going through the heater core. The radiator and top radiator hose gets warm. If you accelerate the rpms there are bubbles coming up in the overflow reservoir. If you shut it off and restart the engine, you will here a burbling in the heater core area and have warm air for 10 seconds or so, at this point the temp gauge will drop for a short time and start climbing again. To my knowledge he got into a minimum amount of components while installing the pump. Before I start digging into this I was wondering if anyone might know what is causing this. I hesitate to call and talk to him after he did this favor since he will feel bad that it is not working.


  • xscoutxscout Member Posts: 141
    This is just a possibility but did the lower radiator hose get replaced? If it was, did the spring inside the old hose get transferred to the new hose? If not the lower hose could be collapsing in on itself from the pumps suction shutting off circulation. You can check by getting under the car after it warms up and see if the hose collapses. Looking through the manual I don't see any unusual procedures for this job on the V8 engine.
  • green27614green27614 Member Posts: 1
    Here is your problem- You have air in the system.

    When replacing the water pump you obviously have to refill the system with the proper mix of antifreeze.

    When doing so you MUST remove the bleed screw when refilling the radiator.

    this bleed screw is found on the upper radiator hose inlet.

    Remove the bleed screw.
    fill the overflow tank
    fill the radiator with antifreeze.
    when antifreeze starts coming out of the bleed screw hole put the radiator cap back on and replace the bleed screw.

    Start the truck up with the heater on FULL high temp. Let it get to operatoing temperature. Turn it off. Let it cool off. During this process any needed antiffreeze will be sucked into the radiator. Refill the overflow tank. repeat tis process at least three times to remove all air from the system...

    Hope this helps- I just had to do this in the middle of a shopping mall parking lot!!
    fortunately I worked as a mechanic at one time (mostly on foreign cars) and this was a normal problem for any vehicle with a closed lop cooliong system.
  • frumundafrumunda Member Posts: 15
    For those of you who have had the misfortune of dealing with the "plastic impeller on the water pump" issue, there is an upgrade. GMB makes the reman water pump to cure that ill. It is the original pump casting but with a new STEEL impeller. BMW and Mercedes have also been those nasty culprits that enjoy putting the plastic in their cooling systems. Its my opinion that it my be a German thing.
  • lunytnzlunytnz Member Posts: 2
    I'm trying to replace the water pump on my 97 GC with a 5.2 V8. I have everything removed from the old pump except the bypass hose (a 1" dia hose about 4" long, from the top of the pump to the block). I can't move the hose clamp up the hose because there's not enough room under the big aluminum bracket that the AC compressor and alternator are mounted to.

    I tried removing the big aluminum bracket, but can't get it. Maybe I'm missing a few bolts, maybe behind the water pump?

    I would like to replace the bypass hose while I'm in there, but I will definitely need to remove the bracket to do that. Any help would be greatly appreciated! What I thought would take a few hours has already taken much longer and I don't even have the old pump out yet!
  • mayheyde1mayheyde1 Member Posts: 1
    Machine Oil Pump oil insufficient or no oil pressure

    Phenomenon: the working device is slow to upgrade to upgrade or not upgrade when you tremble; the fuel tank or the pipe inside the bubble; upgraded hydraulic system when the issue "jack, jack," the voice; tractor had just started working device can improve the working period of time after the temperature rise , then increase slowly or do not lift; light load can be upgraded when you do not lift heavy loads.

    Cause of the malfunction:

    (1) hydraulic tank oil level is too low;

    (2) is not on a seasonal basis using hydraulic oil;

    (3) into the pipeline was dirt jams;

    (4) Oil Pump drive gear oil seal is damaged, the air into the hydraulic system;

    (5) Oil Pump into and out of the oil port connector or bend connector "O" ring is damaged, bent joints fastening bolts or into the flowlines on the nut is not tight, the air into the hydraulic system;

    (6) Oil Pump internal leakage, seal aging;

    (7) Oil Pump face or main, driven gear sleeve face wear or abrasions, two sleeve face roughness ultra-poor;

    (8) Oil Pump assembly error caused by the internal components within the circulation;

    (9) "L" filled "D" Oil Pump, causing washed out oil seal;

    (10) hydraulic oil too dirty.


    (1) According to the season to meet the requirements to add or change brands of oil to the surface of the provisions of the oil. Remove the foreign body inside the tubing, tighten the bolt or nut joints Department;

    (2) the replacement of aging or damaged oil seal or "O"-shaped sealing rubber ring;

    (3) the replacement of worn or Oil Pump Gear Oil Pump sleeve, wear plate will be at a slight flat face grinding. Its non-flatness tolerances 0.03mm; on the sleeve below the pump on the end-plane (normal less than 2.5 ~ 2.6mm), such as the ultra-poor should be the next sleeve plus 0.1 ~ 0.2mm copper to compensate for the installation, when the should be set at the rear axle bearing load;

    (Four) tablets and unloading must be installed in the seal ring into the oil chamber, the two bushings in order to maintain a balance. Unloading film sealing ring should have a 0.5mm pre-press production;

    (5)-oriented wire should be able to stretch the same time, the upper and lower sleeve toward the direction of rotation of driven gear to reverse a slight angle, so that owners, driven gear 2 sleeve tight fitting processing plane;

    (6) bushings on the unloading tank must be installed in the low-pressure chamber side, in order to eliminate harmful gears mesh closed when the dead volume;

    (7) pressed into self-tight seal, should the surface coating layer of lubricant, but also attention to the resistive oil towards the edge of the front cover, can not hold anti-;

    (8) "D" pump can not be installed in the "L" machine, otherwise they will be washed out oil seal;

    (9) pre-loaded pump cover is required to pump a small amount of oil poured into the shell, and hand rotating meshing gears;

    (10) in the bottles and Oil Pump cover bolts are not tightened before the pump should check the gap between the cover and pump body, whether between 0.3 ~ 0.6mm, if the gap is too small, should be replaced large pieces of seals and pressure relief . Hydraulic Oil Pump installed well, it should be flexible and non-card Hysteresis rotation.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    What ???
  • publicservicepublicservice Member Posts: 1
    My next door neighbor is selling his 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited. It has 170k miles, but he had a new transmission installed at 135k.

    It does look to be in good shape (I haven't tried it out yet); is loaded, comes with 6 new tires and has a new sticker.

    He just bought a pick up and no longer needs the Jeep. The asking price is $1,900, which brings me to my question:

    Is this a good vehicle (reliable, etc.)? I live in Maine and, when it's not hot enough to toast your lawn, it's snowing like crazy, so I want something that will get me around in the snow. He said everything works; 4WD, all of the power options, etc.

    Thanks in advance for any insight!
  • akchinookakchinook Member Posts: 3
    I have a 96 jeep gc 5.2L v8, my engine is running cold 120-150 degrees. I replaced my water pump about 2 months ago, every thing ran fine until now. We have had minus degree weather for weeks, my timing cover gasket started to leak. My friend and I put a new timing cover gasket, thermostat, and replaced worn hoses. Now my engine won't get up to temp. Could it be the temperature sensor?
  • lunytnzlunytnz Member Posts: 2
    My first guess is that it isn't warming up because the thermostat isn't operating correctly--meaning, it isn't closing to keep the warm coolant within the engine. Is it possible it was installed backwards? If not, I'd suspect a faulty thermostat.
  • akchinookakchinook Member Posts: 3
    I could have mistakely installed the thermostat in wrong, I'll check for proper installation and test the thermostat to make sure it's not faulty. Thanks
  • akchinookakchinook Member Posts: 3
    I replaced the thermostat, everything is working ok. My next project is fixing leaky transmission cooler lines.
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