Chevrolet Impala Starting/Stalling Problems
Thought I would post this here as the Impala can have the same engine.
I have a 2000 Grand Prix GT w/3800 V6. Has about 89,000 miles. It seems to always start when it is cold. After it warms up completely, if you turn it off (to go into a store, etc.), and try to start it again, it sometimes will not start (happened about 3 times in the last month). It turns over, but won't start (sounds like it is flooded). It will sometimes eventually start after numerous tries, but will always start when the engine cools completely.
We took it into a decent local shop, but they told me it hasn't thrown any codes. They said it could be the crankshaft sensor, ignition module, or fuel pump. They don't want to just start replacing parts as each repair can be costly with the fuel pump being the most expensive. We were hoping that it would start failing more often, especially when they had it (it always started for them) as they can't really do much as long as it always starts for them. We thought the car problems were consistent (always starts when when cold, sometimes won't start when warm, but will eventually start when engine gets cold), but it threw us a curve the other day when the engine stalled while my wife was turning into our development. Luckily, she was able to coast it a half mile to our driveway. Again, after it cooled, it started.
I have heard that a bad battery or one that will soon fail (or one that is defective) can possibly cause this (the battery in the car is 4 years old), so I might take it to a shop and have them check it and maybe replace it anyway as this would be the cheapest fix that I can do myself.
Has anyone had this problem w/the 3800 V6? Any advice? I'm hoping that if the battery doesn't do it, the car will start failing so the shop can fix the problem.
See Also
How To Diagnose Problems If Your Car Won't Start
I have a 2000 Grand Prix GT w/3800 V6. Has about 89,000 miles. It seems to always start when it is cold. After it warms up completely, if you turn it off (to go into a store, etc.), and try to start it again, it sometimes will not start (happened about 3 times in the last month). It turns over, but won't start (sounds like it is flooded). It will sometimes eventually start after numerous tries, but will always start when the engine cools completely.
We took it into a decent local shop, but they told me it hasn't thrown any codes. They said it could be the crankshaft sensor, ignition module, or fuel pump. They don't want to just start replacing parts as each repair can be costly with the fuel pump being the most expensive. We were hoping that it would start failing more often, especially when they had it (it always started for them) as they can't really do much as long as it always starts for them. We thought the car problems were consistent (always starts when when cold, sometimes won't start when warm, but will eventually start when engine gets cold), but it threw us a curve the other day when the engine stalled while my wife was turning into our development. Luckily, she was able to coast it a half mile to our driveway. Again, after it cooled, it started.
I have heard that a bad battery or one that will soon fail (or one that is defective) can possibly cause this (the battery in the car is 4 years old), so I might take it to a shop and have them check it and maybe replace it anyway as this would be the cheapest fix that I can do myself.
Has anyone had this problem w/the 3800 V6? Any advice? I'm hoping that if the battery doesn't do it, the car will start failing so the shop can fix the problem.
See Also
How To Diagnose Problems If Your Car Won't Start
0
Comments
In my particular case, the car seemed to run fine although I had engine ping at high rpms. I had assumed it was just the age of the car that was causing the ping but when I happened upon the intake air issues and fixed them, the ping was fixed as well. If you aren't noticing any real problems other than the noise (and this is indeed the problem), I wouldn't worry too much about it. It may never amount to anything other than a minor annoyance.
Since I changed the battery (the old one was pretty much done for), I haven't had the problem in about 2 weeks (since Super Bowl Sunday). I'm pretty much sure the battery wasn't the cause of the problem and hope I'll see a code next time the car won't start. I am leaning heavily towards crank shaft sensor, too, but my shop advised against changing it until it fails and they witness the problem or see a code (just in case it might be fuel pump or ignition module).
I AM NOT SURE WHERE IT IS COMING FROM. I WILL SEE IF I CAN DETACH THE WHEREABOUTS BEFORE I TAKE IT TO A GARAGE.
THE CAR RUNS WELL WITH 125,000. IT IS A 91, AND I AM THE ORGINAL OWNER.
ANY CLUES TO WHAT IS GOING ON? I HAVE NEVER HEARD THIS SOUND BEFORE.
In early April, we had enough as the car stalled while my wife was turning into our development. She was able to coast it the half mile to our driveway. We took it to our shop and told them to just replace the crankshaft sensor (they wanted to wait until it actually threw a code). Cost us about $325 or so and hasn't had the problem since. But remember, it could have been a cam sensor, too, and we wouldn't be able to get a refund on the cranshaft sensor. We were pretty sure it wasn't the ignition module.
did your car have the check engine light on during the problem?
thankyou for your time and help really thankyou !
Since the car NEVER gave a check engine light, therefore, no code, the shop didn't really want to throw parts at the car, but we told them we were tired of messing around and needed to give it a try, so we had the crankshaft sensor replaced (but DID NOT replace the camshaft sensor). We guessed right because it could have been the camshaft sensor instead, or maybe both.
Cost around $300 for the part and labor. We also had them replace the fuel filter as we hadn't changed that in a while (but I doubt the fuel filter caused any of the problems).
Every few days or weeks i have starting problem. The lights and all the other things is ok but no starter !!! after a while i am trying again and the engine starting normal.
sometimes everything is ok for weeks and sometimes it is not starting day after day.
If somebody experienced the same problem i will thank him for his answer.
Yoram Malkiman
I paid for a scan that turned up nothing.Someone suggested i remove the car starter.that was in it when i bought the car,(not factory).I had the dealer remove it.
2 weeks later..all fine...THEN,..security light came back on,service engine light,and
as i was in a parking lot waiting for it to decide to start ,someone suggested that i turn the key to acc and leave it on for 10 mins ,then start the car.IT WORKED.
The next day I took it to the dealer ,put it on scan,they said wires in bcm came up.
I am also having ignition switch replaced.Sure am seeing alot of this problem.Should be a recall for sure.Will update if it works..or not.
Now once a month I oil the key, push it in and out of the switch slowly a couple times. When starting the car, do not jam the key in quickly and turn. Take your time. It seems to be a very sensitive switch, and needs a little TLC to prevent dirt build up. Try it. A little 3 in 1 oil squirt might save you a $500 repair bill. I told my GM dealer mechanic about this solution. He said "Yeah, it might work"
Other Olds owners have tried this easy solution with favorable results. Try it and see if it works. I would appreciate hearing your results-good or bad. Don't use any special ignition key lubrication from an auto parts store. Just plain old 3 in one oil. Ja
I'm going to have it checked next week.
Occasional problems on this vehicle are failures of the Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, the 2-3 Shift Solenoid and the Transmission Valve Body. A sticking valve in the Transmission Valve Body or a faulty solenoid can cause erratic shifting or the check engine light to come on. The Transmission Valve Body can become dirty and plugged. The cost to repair the Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid is estimated at $40.09 for parts and $312.00 for labor or $331.50 for labor on vehicles with California emissions. The cost to remove and clean the Transmission Valve Body and repair the 2-3 Shift Solenoid is estimated to be $27.80 for parts and $487.50 for labor or $507.00 for labor on vehicles with California emissions. All prices are estimates based on $65.00 per flat rate hour and do not include diagnostic time or any applicable taxes
PARTS WE REPLACED:
IAC
TPS,
CRANK SENSOR 24X
FUEL PUMP
FUEL INJECTORS (6)
PLUGS/WIRES.
WE DID A WHOLE TOP END REMAN, THERE IS NO VACUUM LEAKS. THE ENGINE IS RUNNING GREAT AND SOUNDS GREAT ONLY WHEN YOU HOLD THE THROTTLE OPEN. WE ARE STILL GETTING RANDOM MISFIRES AND THAT'S THE ONLY CODE P300. pLEASE HELP IN OVER 3 YEARS I HAVE SPENT OVER 12,000 ON THIS PIECE OF... BUT I NEED THIS VEHICLE, I HAVE TWO HANDICAPPED BOYS THAT NEED TO GET TO THEIR DR.S APPS
I was told it was probably a crank sensor but wanted a second opinion before I go spending that money.
They mention a faulty cat or a faulty O2 sensor. The sensor after the cat is reading the same as the sensor before the cat.
When I initially start the car there's no problem with it turning over. The problem occurs when I'm at a complete stop like at a stop light or when I'm almost stopped (like rolling up to a stop sign). When I attempt to restart the car it turns back over with no problem, usually on the first try and will normally run for the rest of my drive. I have noticed just recently there's a bit of a struggle to accelerate at times and the rpm gage doesn't seem to reflect the speed that I'm going. Where do I even begin??! In dire need of some conformed advice!
As to most of the posts on this thread it seems like you all have the same problems just different ways of explaining them. if you are still having problems in these areas i would start by checking all your connections to you ICM there are three plugs one for you egr one for your crankshaft sensor and the other one is for i forgot but its the two pin on the passenger side check all of the wire since they are so close to the engine any jumping of them whiole driving could have melted the coating away and shorted them or the plug itself went bad from years of heating up cooling off heating up cooling off chevy didnt think about cooling of this engine very well. I have changed my two small fans over i went with the most expense fans i could buy from napa the bill is a little high but in the long run its better to have a cooler engine with this chevy fail burning out all of the electronics. If you want to upgrade your fans to keep it cool just go into your local napa and ask them for your year radiator with the police package, its def worth it gotta say i love mine and wont trade it for anything. i hope this helps some of you that are so frustrated with these problems i will be posting if i find anything else out after i change my egr vavle plug to the ICM. if anyone has any other questions feel free to ask i dont mind experimenting on my car to help you all out.
My 2003 Impala was stalling while at highway speeds, not starting when the engine was luke warm and occasionally the engine seemed to be out of sink with its various components (which I originally thought was the transmission since I slowly lost power and I had to up the RPM"S to keep it going). It was the Crankshaft Position Sensor aka the CKP. I had it replaced and I have had no problems since.