Dodge Dakota Fuel Pump/Fuel System Questions

bambuild10bambuild10 Member Posts: 1
have a 1999 dodge dakota v8 5.2 fuel pump wouldn't turn off when you shut the truck off unless you unhooked battery got the point where fuel pump wouldn't even turn on checked relays and all fuses replaced the fuel pump and still turn on the key and don't hear fuel pump come on and truck will not start. can some please help


  • geranygerany Member Posts: 1
    I have 2001 dakota quad cab 4.7 liter v8, just changed the fuel pump module abt 3 mos. ago, then also had problems with my transmission wherein i replaced it with a new TCM, after having changed this items i am again having trouble with the engine starting usually when engine gets hot, the same symptoms I had before changing my fuel pump module. However this time i am getting an DTC P0601, please help me resolve this. the funny thing is if i let it be with the check engine light on without erasing it, the vehicle starts fine, but everytime i erase it the problem comes back. Anybody who can help. :confuse:
  • jmclemorejmclemore Member Posts: 3
    My 1993 dakota 5.2 engine will start missing at about 40 mph. Seems worse between 40 and 55. Will start after acceleration but ok during accel. Any soloution? No trouble code showing.
  • gjblegjble Member Posts: 23
    does anyone have any experience with locking gas caps on the
    dakota's 4.7 engine?

    in Atlanta
  • ronslakie1ronslakie1 Member Posts: 57
    I have had a Mopar locking gas cap on my 2000 Dak 4.7 for 8 years with no problems.
  • tommy97tommy97 Member Posts: 17
    I have a '97 Dodge Dakota Sport 2WD (3.9L V6 Automatic). Some SOB punctured my fuel line recently! I tried to splice it but no cigar - can't get a good seal w/ the piece of copper tubing I tried to use (0.250" OD going into thin walled plastic tubing ~0.265" ID). Still a gusher ...

    A brass barbed splice I had was 0.285" so even worse (won't fit into the tube).

    I'd now like to remove the piece (~30" long) from the pump to the end of the metal tube that rides the chassis forward. Then, what are the chances I can find a piece of standard gas 1/4" line to replace?

    Or, assuming I can get an actual replacement line from the Dodge dealership, how difficult would it be to replace?

    Do I absolutely need the "Tool No. C-4124, or equivalent" to loosen/tighten the fuel line fitting at the pump?

    I'd appreciate any thoughts on this.

    Tommy :cry:
  • pbjar1pbjar1 Member Posts: 1
    does this truck have an inline filter? lost rpms and idol eventually held has not done it since but would like to be proactive; fuel pump replaced less than 20,000miles ago; any suggestios?
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Hmmm. I'm not sure but I think by 1995 Chrysler had gone to a modular, in-tank filter.

    Follow the fuel line along the length of the body. If you see a canister looking device, it is probably an in-line filter. Or consult a Dodge dealer. They should be able to tell you right away.

  • tommy97tommy97 Member Posts: 17
    This message is for DustyK and any others (pbjar1) who replied to my original post:
    "Repairing/replacing fuel line at pump - '97 Dakota 2WD"

    Somehow, the subject morphed into:
    "in line fuel filter 1995 Dakota V6"

    Unfortunately I never got any practical/useful replies on my original post but, having now made the repair using brute force methods, I can report the following:

    Aside from the hassle of removing the very thin-walled plastic tube that connects the fuel pump outlet to the metal tube that runs along the chassis forward to the engine compartment, the Dodge dealership wanted ~$45 for a new one and it was to be special order! I would never recommend this route.

    The best approach is as follows:

    1) Remove the left rear wheel and place the axle on a block.

    2) Realize that the space (about 10:00) behind that left rear is difficult to access, and lighting will be scant. If you can morph yourself into Mighty Mouse, that would be a huge advantage.

    3) For the lighting problem, I do not recommend an incandescent work light (sparks = explosion); us a B&D snakelight or similar.

    4) Release the clip from the fitting at the pump outlet and pull off the tube. Using a sharp utility knife, cut the tubing from the metal line along chassis, remove this tube and make sure the exposed metal ends are clean of residual (plastic) tubing pieces.

    5) Understand that - sadly - Dodge decided to make the OD of the metal pump outlet be 0.375" (~3/8"), while making the OD for the metal tube that rides along the chassis 0.320" (~5/16"). This disconformity is bizarre and senseless!

    6) Go to a hardware store & purchase 1' of 5/16" high-pressure line, 1' of 3/8" ID hp fuel line, and a 3/8" nylon barbed hose mender.

    7) Attach the mender to both hose pieces (you may need to hold the end of the 5/16" hose in scalding hot water to press over the 3/8" mender). Secure these ends w/ a hose clamp on each side of the mender.

    8) Place the other end of the 3/8" hose in scalding hot water w/ a bit of dish detergent (for lubrication) for 2-3 minutes. Slide a small hose clamp over it and quickly and with aggressive turning motion, fit the heated end onto the pump outlet. Note that this outlet has a raised collar for attaching the fitting you just removed. The presence of this collar will require an agonizing effort to force the 3/8" hose over it and all the way in to the pump body (~7/8"). If you don't reach the pump body w/ the end of the hose, pull it off, reheat/lube, and try again. Once you get it, slide a hose clamp up near the pump body (over the outlet) and tighten. The best tool is a nutdriver w/ 12" long handle. (Once you try this, you'll see exactly why I suggested a tool like this.)

    9) Slice a small hose clamp over the 5/16" end of the hose and and slide the hose a few inches over the end of the metal tube that runs along the chassis. (You probably won t really need to heat/lube this part of the hose.) Slide the hose clamp over this joint and secure.

    10) Start the engine and check for leaks.

    Finally, I'll answer the question that seems to have been floating around on what became of my post. NO, positively and assuredly, there are NO in-line filters on the Dakota. The one and only filter is inside the fuel tank, and that brainless Chrysler design is why it's such a colossal chore to replace it (should you ever - God forbid - need to). You gotta remove the tank!

    Which points up a possible modification to my steps 6&7 above, You may choose this unfortunate event to use, instead of a nylon mender, an actual in-line fuel filter and get 2 birds w./ one stone. In this way you splice the 2 hose pieces and enhance the filtration.

    Hope this helps.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Your admirable determination probably saved you some decent bucks. Good to hear things got fixed.

    Just for the record, Chrysler wasn't the first to go to in-tank filters, nor are they alone. Everything from Ford, GM and Toyota use the same design, and I think most of them do, actually. My neighbor just had the fuel module (aka fuel filter) replaced on his 87 Accord.

    I'm not sure why the manufacturers have gone to this design. My guess is that an in-line filter represents a potential safety hazard under some conditions. And a cartridge filter design might be impractical for some high pressure systems.

    Best regards,
  • mydkta07mydkta07 Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I'm from Monterrey, Mexico. I just bought a Dakota 2007, I just have 20,000 km and I have that problem "check engine light" turns on when I start the truck plus a "gascap" legend on the odometer... Do you fix the problem? How do you do it? because my dealer service is very bad and I wasted a lot of time with the dealer but they can't fixed yet.
  • mydkta07mydkta07 Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I'm from Monterrey, Mexico. I just bought a Dakota 2007, I just have 20,000 km and I have that problem "check engine light" turns on when I start the truck plus a "gascap" legend on the odometer... Do you fix the problem? How do you do it? because my dealer service is very bad and I wasted a lot of time with the dealer but they can't fixed yet.

    AND the dealer review 3 times the truck and the last time they change the gascap for a new one, but 2 days after change again, I still having the same problem
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    You could have another source of a leak in the evaporative fuel system or an inoperative Leak Detection Pump that is triggering the fault.

    Also, if the incorrect fuel cap is used you will get a fault.

  • bdean1bdean1 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 91 dakoda and it will stop running and not let fuel passed the injectors . i have replaced the pump, filtor, and ragulator it will run and drive sometimes and it will act like it runs out of gas and then it will not start and at that time there is no fuel coming out of the injectors and then out of no were it will start and run for a little. please does any one have any advice
  • dave169dave169 Member Posts: 3
    I can only put a half of tank of gas into my 1997 dodge dakota. I replaced the filling unit and vent hose, but it seems that wasn't the problem. The engine light is not on and I do not get any problems when checking codes. some one told me it maybe the rollover valve or another vent some where? any help would be great or I will be putting in only a half tank forever! Kidding!!
  • larry1956larry1956 Member Posts: 5
    Hello all,

    I notice last week, that it suddenly started taking a few more cranks of the starter to start my truck, then I just notice today gas dripping from my fuel line half way up the chassis. Line has some much rust on it it's a wonder it didn't blow apart altogether. Well anyway I need to repair/replace it. Can I use rubber fuel line and clamps to splice it. I'll need to cut away the bad section. Any ideas? Thks in advance.
  • rayfitz50rayfitz50 Member Posts: 1
    Have an '05 Dakota SLT 4x4 Quad cab and the gas guage went to "E" and the digital overhead display will not show DTE information. DTC indicates Fuel Sender voltage high. Is this specific to the fuel pump/sender needing to be replaced or is there something else that could be causing this? :confuse:
  • wonderlickwonderlick Member Posts: 3
    I have 1994 Dakota SLT 4wd w/ 5-speed Manual trans., that i cannot seem to get fuel to engine. Shut it off one day now nothing. have replaced fuel pump, check fuel pump relay, but fuel pump will not activate when ignition is turned on. If I shoot ether into air filter truck will start. I am getting no codes from computer even with self diagnostic. Does anyone have any suggestions or help? I don't know how to check if Computer is bad, but i can,t believe it would only lose ability for fuel pump and nothing else. I have 405,000 miles on this bad girl ( yes i didn't stutter), and have never had anything more major than alternator, water or fuel pump issues in all that time. I do ALL maintenance on this vehicle but am at my wits end please help!!!
  • babydoll80babydoll80 Member Posts: 1
    trying to locate the fuel pump on a dodge dakota 2003
  • wonderlickwonderlick Member Posts: 3
    It will be located in the gas tank, and to save you the effort, the fuel filter is part of the fuel pump assembly! Taking the drivers rear tire off will greatly help with dropping the tank and doing the proceedure!
  • wonderlickwonderlick Member Posts: 3
    OK i found the problem myself! so to help others that might run into this here is what went down! I started checking the wire harness from the Power Distribution Center located by the battery on the drivers side wheel well. It was about 3 to 4 inches towards the fire wall i found the culprit. A connection that had corroded and rotted in-two. Spliced it together and now she is running as strong as ever!! I should warn you that I had to unwrap the wiring harness, so extreme caution should be taken not to damage any of the wires. 405,000 miles and she still runs like a striped Ape!! Long live the MOPAR 318!!!!!! Still the best small block EVER built!!! I am so looking forward to slapping a cool million on the old girl!! Good luck folks! :shades: :D
  • actiontjactiontj Member Posts: 1
    Have a 1997 Dodge Dakota 4x4. About a month ago my pick up would only run for about 3 seconds and die. Was told it was the fuel pump so i put another fuel pump in and it ran for a couple of weeks and now it is doing the same thing, starts up and runs for 3 seconds and dies out. I Can hear that the fuel pump is running. Can anyone help?
  • drominedromine Member Posts: 2
    My 91 dakoda stops running and will not pass fuel to the injectors . I have replaced the pump, filter, and ragulator it will run and drive sometimes and it will act like it runs out of gas and then it will not start and at that time there is no fuel coming out of the injectors and then out of no were it will start and run for a little. Please does any one have any advice.
    Thank You
  • drominedromine Member Posts: 2
    I have 91 Dakota, My fuel filter is under the truck mounted to the frame, Left side in front of the gas tank.
  • bigron18bigron18 Member Posts: 1
    my 1999 Dodge Dakota start fine but after running a minute or two will act like its running out of gas, it will backfire, and create a smelly exhaust. This occures for maby 15 seconds then you can drive the truck for hours with no problems unless you shut it off for a few minutes.
    Now I have fuel in the oil and in the tailpipe please help
  • dirtyharrysdirtyharrys Member Posts: 6
    I have a 92 dakota 5.2 MFI..... Will not start or run...... Good compression, good spark, to much fuel. So much fuel that there is gas in the crankcase. I have replaced the computer with no luck. If you hold the pedal to the floor the truck will fire but then will instantly flood.. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • anotherjunkeranotherjunker Member Posts: 5
    did you check "both" fuses
  • anotherjunkeranotherjunker Member Posts: 5
    if it's a hot start problem meaning starts fine with the motor cold i.e. in the morning

    then its probably the ecm under the disturbter'
  • anotherjunkeranotherjunker Member Posts: 5
    what i did was put the copper tubing in one side of the plastic line. find a piece of neoprine hose about 6" long id just larger then the plastic hose believe mine was 5/16" slide it on the other side make sure the copper tube and the rubber hose are approx. the same length now slide the coppe tube in the other side, the push the hose back over the copper tube now clamp all three down together make sure you are using strong clamps not the cheap china ones

    the copper tube prevents the plastic pipe from crushing the noeprine hose is what makes it leak proof
  • rclemonsrclemons Member Posts: 2
    I have a 94' Dakota, 4x4, auto, V8. Today I lost power to my fuel pump. I changed the pump and swapped the relays. According to the dealer, there are no other switches etc in the fuep circut. Any ideas on what to look for? This is my first major problem since buying the truck.

  • eodopseodops Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97 Dakota, 4x4, V8, that I just installed a 3" lift on. Prior to the lift, running great. Immediately after installing the lift, it will not run. I start it up and it kind of surges, it will continue to idle indefinitely, but dies as soon as I try to put it in gear. Also, the fuel gauge now reads 0 and the DTE displays "OC". I know that there is at least a half of tank of gas though.

    I tried switching out the relay, which fixed the problem for about four seconds.

    Any suggestions?
  • josh59josh59 Member Posts: 1
    Ok so i have a 91 dakota with the 3.9 v6. when i barely push push on the gas peddle it sputters and wants to die it does it when its warm and cold but its just that one spot every where else is fine except the one spot when i barely push on the peddle runs fine except that spot

    Any advice thanks!!
  • jpwats6jpwats6 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Dakota 2wd 6 cyl., and whenever I back up and stop to put the truck in gear, it just shuts off. it seems like it has to be a fuel delivery system problem but i have no idea what it might be.
  • carvermancarverman Member Posts: 101
    I have a '98 V8 (318) the fuel pump is controlled by the fuel pump relay
    which is controlled by the PCM (power control module)/engine management
    computer. Assuming the fuses are good, the fuel pump relay controls fuel
    delivery to the fuel rail/injectors. (normal operating pressure is 45-50 psi)
    If the engine is running, pulling the fuel pump relay will stop the fuel pump
    (located in fuel tank) from running and once the pressure in the fuel rail
    bleeds down to less than 25 psi, the fuel injectors will stop working and
    the engine dies being starved of fuel.

    Assumption here is that your V8 is similar to mine and has the same
    control circuits.
    The ASD (auto shutdown relay) will kill the injectors, and ignition coil.
    It is controlled by the PCM. The check engine light will probably come on.

    For the ASD relay to NOT operate..all sensors need to be functional.

    For the ASD relay to operate any one of the Critical sensors indicating
    some kind of fault to the PCM (camshaft or crankshaft) . The PCM
    will de-energize both the both the fuel pump relay and the ASD relay.
    is in the fuel pump module
  • carvermancarverman Member Posts: 101
    This fuel pump module in the tank is a very stupid design. Not only do you have
    to drop the fuel tank (and it needs to be partially empty), but getting at the filter
    pressure regulator is a real chore. I wanted to change my fuel filter and was
    told by a couple of aftermarket parts places.."no listing on that item".
    So in essence, you have to wait until the fuel filter clogs up or buy a complete
    new fuel pump module for several hundred dollars.
    Very stupid engineering..Dodge/Chrysler!
  • jman45jman45 Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem on my 2002 Dakota. Did you ever get the problem resolved and if so what did you have to do?
  • viking16viking16 Member Posts: 1
    The floor controller on my 97 Dodge Dakota 4 X 4 will not move! Anyone have suggestions?
  • deceptivexdeceptivex Member Posts: 1
    CTM = Central timing module, located behind the Glovebox, this is the anti theft, and most likely you need a replacement CTM to fix your problem, if you have a v6 your in luck, the v8 is expensive...
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