Lexus RX Transmission Problems
Does the '08 RX350 have the notorious transmission lag (i.e. hesitation)? I've had personal experience of it in the ES series and have read about the problem with the RX series and other Toyota products. I was just wondering if Toyota really managed to fix this problem with the '07 model year as my salesman claimed they did. The problem can be difficult to replicate in a test drive.
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My delima is as follows:
1. Do I fix the car and keep it
2. Fix just the transmission and trade it in.
3. Have it towed to a dealership for trade-in value. Not sure what $ I would get for the trade. My Kelly Blue book and Manhiem resale appraisal are around $ 9500.00 ( Obviously in working order with miles, equipment and condition of vehicle)
That depends on your budget and threshold for aggravation. You won't find a comparable used vehicle for $4,300 so the question is how well can you tolerate the possibility of other things "going wrong" with your current vehicle?
tidester, host
I would go to a third party, not one of the above, and get a tranny repair quote. There are many stories here and about regarding early, premature, transaxle failures in the RX300 series due to the adoption of ASL(***) techniques late in the last century. In many cases the Lexus dealer was able to get Lexus corporate to pick up a portion or all of the repair bill.
And don't let ANYONE tell you that the failure is a result of your not doing the proper scheduled maintainance. Your owners manual is quite clear that no routine scheduled transaxle maintenance is required.
***ASL: Aggressive Shift Logic. The transaxle control firmware is designed to upshift the transaxle into the next higher gear anytime the, ANY, opportunity arises. That oftentimes results in the tranaxle starting an upshift as the result of a slight lift of the accelerator pedal just before accelerating. The transaxle begins the upshift just as you reapply pressure to the accelerator pedal and now the upshift must complete before the downshift most appropreate to the new pedal position can be commanded and begin.
You RX300 has a direct connection from the gas pedal to the engine throttle so the engine RPM will begin to rise long before the transaxle has shifted into the lower gear needed to provide the proper level of torque to the drive wheels.
Can you smell the slipping and burning of the transaxle clutches as you read this?
In 2004 Lexus went to DBW, e-throttle, so as to delay engine torque until those clutches had time to fully and firmly seat.
In the meantime....
Is this a manufacturers defect or just poor quality? Can anyone say "Class Action"?
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/complain/complaintsearch.cfm?step=2&t- ype=1&year=1999&searchtype=DrillDown
>>"Class Action"?
Its definitely a manufacturer's defect, the transmission in my car
just got busted at only 76k miles.
Is there anything we can do about it? I have filed a complaint to
LEXUS, local newspaper, TV station (email to
consumerwatch@cbs5.com
actionline@mercurynews.com
PLEASE REFER THE URL's below to see how many people owning
1999-2000 model of RX300 have transmission failures, have similar
symptoms:
Carsurvey.org:
http://www.carsurvey.org/viewcomments_review_54694.html)
Lexus Owners forum:
http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=28020&hl=rx300+transmis- sion
Is there any way we all can get in touch and do something about this?
with somneone. They have about 8 such cases for transmission failure
logged in their database. If more people file a complaint with them
& if they see a recurring pattern regarding transmission failure, then the Nation Highway Transportation Safety Agency investigators
will definitely investigate this.
Anyone running into transmission failure problems with Lexus RX300,
please file a complaint here or call the at 1-888-327-4236
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/complain/complaintsearch.cfm?step=2&t- - ype=1&year=1999&searchtype=DrillDown
Defective transmission? There were a few issues. One that I know of was a defect Lexus noticed early on. This was my experience. The early 1999 models (mine is a ’99 model built in early ‘98) had a TSB for replacement of the transmission valve body to be done at Lexus' expense if there was a shift problem, which a very bad dealer did not do, but was supposed to (first they said it was nothing and I didn’t insist they document it, then they said they couldn't find a TSB after all, and on another occasion they said all was OK, which was not true). I requested the correction before any damage occurred, and kept the documented warrantee checks.
Before the warrantee expired in 2004, but after I had the transmission fluid “flushed” once and serviced many miles later by my same ol’ neighborhood Toyota dealer I usually go to (so that’s twice, second time slight metal shavings found on the magnet filter) I had a different Lexus dealer check on the “hard cold 1-2 shift” again. I didn’t know about everyone else's issues, but didn’t want any trouble with it after it was out of warrantee. Just before 70,000 miles with hard cold 1-2 shift symptom, Lexus (different dealer) stood behind their product and replaced my entire transmission with a brand new unit from Kyushu, Japan after trying two factory rebuilt units that also had shift logic issues, all at no cost to me. I didn't have to ask; this was their solution which was great with me. They went out of their way to make sure problems from the other dealer were not repeated, and even showed me some things that they fixed I didn’t notice. So yes, there was a defect, and I was happy with how it was finally corrected. Nearly 6 years and 70,000 miles later, I had a brand new transmission built based on modern (not ’98) specs.
Are they all “defective”? I don’t think so. I have a local friend with a 2000 4WD with many more miles than mine on the factory transmission without problems, his shifts with the same smoothness and precision mine does, and still has clean fluid. Also, he has his fluid changed at the same local Toyota dealer as I do as part of his preventive maintenance. That doesn't mean they don't have inherent weaknesses.
Do they all have their flaws and weaknesses? Yes, I certainly think so. Most cars do, this one's not as perfect as I expected from a Lexus. One person in particular on this board (correct me if I'm wrong) will give you detail about software logic to up-shift for low emissions and fuel economy. This is not the only vehicle that employs this logic. My heavy-duty Ford motorhome has one of the toughest transmissions in the business, and it employs the same unfortunate logic, which is much more pronounced than the RX. I’m betting most non-sporting modern cars do as well. But, they usually have less-precise but sturdier bearings and clutches, a sacrifice in smoothness I’d gladly take. Also, the RX, like most FWD based cars, has the engine exhaust run right under the transmission. Normally, with the size of the engine/transmission cooling (as well as the extra transmission cooler included in the “Towing Package”) there isn’t a problem as long as the vehicle is moving along. RX’s main weakness is dissipating transmission heat in low-speed situations, like extended idling (especially parked with the air-conditioning on) or maneuvering a trailer in the summer on steep inclines and tight parking spaces because the exhaust heat and transmission cooler do not have the constant rush of air. The engine coolant “temp” gauge shows the engine is staying cool, but it causes the fluid to break down (as well as engine oil gelling). The factory did not feel it was necessary to install a fan on the transmission cooler. Lastly, transmission maintenance is not normally performed very often. The factory manual doesn’t call for it unless usage is “severe” and most folks don’t think of their usage as severe. For marketing purposes, Lexus, like many manufacturers, goes to the extreme to define long service intervals, but this light duty transmission needs to be serviced often. All too often they aren’t serviced until they go bad and it’s too late.
Will Lexus fix your faulty transmission under warrantee? I’ll bet they will be really cooperative if your car is within the 6 years/70,000 miles powertrain warrantee Lexus provided (longer than most) without a hassle. However if not, you may have a problem unless you have some really good prior documentation, or I'm guessing a dealer relationship would help. I also got the impression it probably helps if you can show the car has been serviced by Lexus (or a Toyota dealer) because they like to be confident the correct Type IV (Toyota) fluid was used rather than Dextron/Mercron with an additive they use at the corner quick lube. If the car is out of warrantee, I don't think they feel a legal obligation, but they might be trying to retain a repeat customer, and offer assistance to make you happy.
Is your transmission OK now, but you want to prevent problems? Have it serviced. Often, that's your best bet. Once a year or two at the most, unless the fluid is still bright red. Additionally, if you are handy, you can also add a small computer fan in front of the auxilery transmission cooler, if your model has one. Or you can add an additional cooler or have a transmission shop do it. I did. Cheap insurance. You can find info on my CarSpace page http://www.carspace.com/la4mead/ in my photo albums, if you are interested.
You can use the "search" tool on the other RX300 forums for older messages created before this forum; I think there's more there. Good luck, my friends...
Why artificially "SLOW" the hybrid synergy vehicles if the FE and emissions "gain" is significant enough to go to the extreme, and thereby incur the horribly adverse publicity, and upshift standard vehicles in order to extend coasting distance?
No, the new shift technique was adopted primarily to improve the safety factor of FWD and front torque biased AWD vehicles when the roadbed traction is marginal.
Back in the mid to late ninties someone, or some group, with enough power, issued an edict that the adverse safety factor of FWD and front torque biased AWD vehicles arising from engine compression braking had to be corrected, NOW, INSTANTLY!
My vote goes to the automotive insurance industry.
That's how I learned FWD, and always helped me out to retain steering (and traction) before it's broken loose. Perhaps less active drivers needed the "fix" forced on the rest of us. The up-shift is not something desirable, but I couldn't argue that it was "defective".
I tend to drive the (RWD) motorhome on steep mountain roads in blowing wind on ice in the winter, too. Although the traction is good overall, I have to say the shift logic is more annoying in the Ford motorhome, and the shifter much more difficult to use, but I get by. I don't let either car shift automatically under any severe conditions, though.
Even with RWD downshifting an automatic transmission doesn't leave one with an easy way to "moderate" the engine braking effects and therefore can be hazardous on a slippery roadbed.
And it isn't the upshift itself that makes these vehicles unsafe. When it upshifts upon a full lift-throttle event the engine RPM quickly drops to idle or at least nearby. Now with the ATF oil pump hardly moving any oil at all there is not enough reserve ATF pressure/flow to quickly accomplish a quick sequential downshift should the driver happen to re-apply pressure to the gas pedal immediately upon the transaxle beginning the just previously commanded upshift.
The early, '99 (and '00??), RX300 transaxle failures are the direct result of adopting the new upshifting technique without seriously thinking over the consequences. Without enough ATF pressure/flow the "quick" sequential downshift following a lift-throttle upshift can not be completed before the engine torque begins to rise resulting in an inordinate level of clutch slippage and wear.
By '01 they had adopted a higher volume/displacement ATF oil pump to overcome this problem but that led to overheating of the ATF due to the otherwise un-necessary higher pump volume. It appears that ALL '01 RX300s had the tow package with the extra cooling ATF heat exchanger to help alleviate the effects of overheating the ATF.
In '04 they apparently went back to the lower volume ATF oil pump and adopted DBW, e-throttle, so the rise of engine torque could be delayed the 1-2 seconds it takes to re-pressurize the ATF with the engine at idle for that quick sequential downshift.
I too have a Ford based MH, E350 V10, but I haven't noticed any weird shifting charactoristics. But mine is a 99, perhaps before Ford's adoption of these new lift-throttle upshift techniques. But in any case I don't think I would notice a lack of responsiveness in my MH if the engine torque were delayed 1-2 seconds for downshifting completion.
Also I have read somewhere that with the new FWD Ford Edge a variable volume/displacement ATF oil pump has been adopted to increase the overall efficiency. But maybe also to overcome Ford's own "throttle lag" problems.
At approximately 40,000 a leak developed in one of the transmission seals. In the process of re lacing the seal, something was installed incorrectly causing the fluid to leak out and damage the transmission. The Lexus dealer accepted responsibility and installed a rebuilt transmission. There are now 56,000 miles on the car (16,000 on the rebuilt transmission). Recently, the car began to slip backward in gear, would surge ahead or at times, would not move forward when in gear. Upon examination, the dealer said the transmission was four (!) quarts low of transmission fluid. Four quarts of fluid were added and the car appears to be working fine. The dealer said there was no external evidence of fluid leakage.
Have any of you heard of a similar experience? What might cause this? Should I be concerned? The car is now out of warranty and I sure don't want to replace the transmission again.
Thank you.
Thanks
The Edmunds Maintenance Guide says the transmission fluid needs to be checked at 60,000 and 120,000 miles. Nothing about replacement.
Did you simply have the fluid changed at 90k or did they do a power flush?
It sounds like you had the work done at the Lexus dealer - did you buy the used Lexus at the same dealer? If so, I'd ask for another $1500 off for the "unneeded" tranny service at 90,000 miles, or more if it was a power flush.
Otherwise try for a quote from an independent transmission shop or maybe a Toyota dealer if one in your area works on Lexus.
California seems to have strong consumer protection laws so you may want to run your story by the consumer protection agency there (AG's office?). It doesn't look promising though.
Lexus has been offering assistance to owners of '99 & '00 RX300s since they contain a transaxle design flaw that results in early or premature failures.
According to my '01 owners manual no transaxle service is required for the life of the vehicle. That has since been revised to 15,000 miles because of a subsequent fix for the earlier models having gone awry.
I suspect that 90,000 mile transaxle maintainance issue is a bit of SMOKE on Lexus part. There is an engine timing belt change out schedule at 90,000 miles but I don't know of any transaxle schedule. Of course Lexus may have issued one after the fact but they can't legally hold the owner to anything beyond what's printed in the original manual.
Is there an official TSB that Tphillsrx300 can look up or something else in writing somewhere that can be used to pressure for a replacement? Or is this one of those "secret" after warranty adjustment things?
Insofar as I know, understand.
Those that stand in the middle of the dealer showroom on a busy day and loudly discuss the problem get the most concessions.
Go find the service manager tell him/her you wish to show them something, walk them over to a brand new RX and begin the discussion with the RX as an instructional aid.
Because i want to keep this car for as long as perhaps another 2 years, i want to make sure to have it properly serviced in terms of major maintenance. I have had other Lexus autos and have paid for th 60000 mile service the dealer always recommended...usually about $700.00.Because my wife drives this car and we live in rural SouthCarolina i want to make sure the car is well maintained. Nevertheless, i know how Lexus dealers always recommend the most...why not?...and that the 90,000 service will cost between $1100-1500 as per my nearest Lexus dealer so advising me last week.
I dont know what all the 90000 mile service includes,but I do know it includes replacement of the timing belt.
At this point Im thinking i should replace the transmission fluid and flush the radiator, as well as consider the 90000 mile service at Lexus. I figure at about 100.000 miles i will need to replace the tires and brakes again, and probably install a new battery.
I would appreciate any recommendations anyone with experience on this subject can provide. I am retired and dont have 1500.00 to spend if i dont need to.We have some capable local auto repair shops where i live and the closest lexus dealer is 85 miles away.
Thanks so much for any help you can provide.
MNF
I was going to just trade it in for a new 2006 or 2007 RX350, but now I am wondering if I should go for something else like an Acura MDX?
THANKS FOR ALL THE FEEDBACK!!!!
I'm curious as to what model RX you have. Is it 2 whl drive, or 4 whl? I have a 2000 as well.
Thanks.
~$4,000 for a rebuilt transaxle is lot cheaper than a new Acura RDX or BMW X3.
I fully intent to keep my 2001 AWD RX300, now at 65,000 miles, until it breaks, even until 200,000 miles. At that point it will get a DIY rebuild and a PTO modification to covert it to "solid" RWD and with (only) VC coupling to the front.
Not altogether sure I'll wait much longer before doing the PTO modification, maybe before the next snow flies.
I will check in the knock sensor code and see if it also was listed. Thanks for your advice.
Sorry to say this, but nothing but bad luck so far. Hope you guys understand my frustration!!!
Every oil change I'm watching the color, clarity and odor of my 2001 AWD RX300, I expect that at 80,000 miles it will again be dirty and burned as it was at 40,000 miles.
Our commute is also 7 miles each way on the Seattle eastside (97F today?) but rarely any serious traffic to contend with.
My 2001 RX300 is approaching 60,000, so I guess I better change all transmission fluid every 20,000 miles.
What is going on inside our transaxles that results in the ATF being overheated?
My guess is the same as the reason for the 1-2 second delay/hesitation in later DBW RXes. In our case the engine is able to develop a significant level of torque before the transaxle fully completes the downshift required when we return to acceleration shortly, QUICKLY, after a lift-throttle event.
At certain roadspeeds, approximately 40-30 & 10-0, the RX300 shift pattern calls for an UPSHIFT upon a lift-throttle event. I suspect that once that upshift begins if you now quickly return to acceleration mode, with the engine now at idle, there will be insufficiant ATF pressure to support the following, REQUIRED, downshift.
Resulting in severe slipping of the not-yet-fully-seated downshifting clutches and thereby overheating of the ATF.
"Independant shop replaced it."
Factories oftentimes make running changes, even within the same MY, in component design, more epecially so with firmware coding and "flash" updating.
So there is NO way for an independent shop to know if a particular replacment transaxle will match, exactly, the design of the one being removed. More importantly what about the firmwave version, revision #, that applies to the engine/transaxle ECU in your vehicle "as shipped".
Sorry, really, sorry, but take it to Lexus.
Don't know if this will help, but maybe...
At least one, possibly two, of the solenoids within the transaxle are used as LINEAR "servo-controllers" but with NO direct position feedback. Before DBW it was not unusual for an off-the-shelf electric solenoid to be used in this manner to control the A/F mixture at idle via teh idle air bypass channel/path.
The key to this use is that the controlling ECU must "learn", over time and use, jsut what position the solenoid plunger takes for a given PWM, Pulse Width Modulation input duty-cycle.
In reality the solenoid plunger position is not actually learned, just the results on the controlled parameter for differing PWM duty-cycles. In the case of the idle air bypass solenoid when a new one is installed the ECU must learn the proper, correct duty cycle, for maintaining the idle at a fixed 800 RPM and with the downstream oxygen sensor signal in te corract range. Over time it must "KNOW" which duty cycle to use with the A/C compressor cycling vs not, how much to adjust the duty cycle as a function of IAT signal, etc, etc.
So your new transaxle may simply have a solenoid that is intermittent insofar as consistently positioning with a given duty-cycle input.
Good luck.
Previous post is not a simple reply – this is actually 11-th edition of “Wwest Mythology”. Previous 10 editions have been discussed and bitten to death in approximately ~1000 posts in a number of forums/sites. I have read some of those. What is the result? See here:
[url=http://www.siennaclub.org/forum/index.php?showtopic=6921&hl=]http://www.sie- nnaclub.org/forum/index.php?...ic=6921&hl=[/url]
As if previous discussions do not exist, wwest posts the same stuff again and again and again
Like a Big Propaganda Machine, wwest is in a win-win situation: if you start infinite discussions and win – it does not mater, next time he will post exactly the same stuff. If you ignore him – he will flood forums and poor readers would have to deal with it anyway.
END OF DISCLAIMER[/quote]
Okay, "teacher" will take a different tact, tactic.
Do you know how many things in a car simply waste energy....???
A) Power stearing hydraulic pump when there is no "stearing" to be done. What, 98% of the time?
And yes, I do know that PS pressure helps "hold" the stearing in a "set" position, but just how much energy does that require in comparison to the HUGE losses?
The PS must have the pumping capacity/volume/displacement to help, SERIOUSLY help, turn the wheels at or near a dead stop(parallel parking...), all the while with the engine turning only at idle, of maybe slightly above.
So, 2200 RPM and driving straight down the highway at 65MPH guess how much pressurized PS fluid is simply being bypassed back into the sump.
Is it any wonder that many cars are converting to electric power stearing, even at the risk of having the solid state electronics overheat and therefore automatically going into a sub-standard power assist mode?
B] Gear-type engine lubricating pump. Again, pumping volume/capacity/displacement must accomodate full pressure and flow even with the engine at idle. So as engine RPM rises the EXTRA pumping capacity must be bypassed back into the sump.
Either BMW or MB, don't remember which, has already gone to a variable displacement engine lubricating oil pump in oder to reduce these losses and thereby reduce the engine heat load and also increase FE.
C) A/C compressor. Here again, the compressor pumping capacity must be such that it can provide FULL cooling capability at engine idle on a BRIGHT and SUNNY 100F (or above) day. In this case the A/C clutch along with a reasonably sized liquid refrigerant storage reservoir has been used for "eons" to ammiliate the effects of continuous engine loading by the A/C compressor.
So why do you suppose so many new vehicles are coming out equipped with the new variable capacity "swash plate" type A/C compressor, and the compressor clutch?
Because it is better design practice, overall, to have a continous ~2HP load on the engine rather than an intermittent load of ~7HP.
[b]Getting the picture..?[/b]
D) And just what is the deal with the torque converter (hydraulic TURBINE pump, slush pump, etc.), just how lossy is that sucker?
The slush pump, torque converter, is really required ONLY to act as an automatic clutch. At low engine speeds, idle, the losses are so high that virtually no torque is coupled to the transaxle input shaft. NONE would be ideal, but nowadays you need a clutch pedal for that. The nice thing about the torque converter is that it also acts as a reduction gear ratio at low torque loading. But, that's where the torque converter lockup clutch comes into play. In OD it is highly desirous to have the engine operate at the lowest speed at which it can produce "just" enough torque for the current load factor...roadspeed. So at low engine RPMs the HIGH LOSS torque converter is bypassed by the lockup clutch.
E) This one is slightly off point but I bring it because if I don't someone else will.
The engine coolant water pump.
Almost all engine coolant water pumps are of the centrifical, turbine, type and thereby self limiting insofar as pumping volume is concerned. Obviously there is some "needless" loss involved here otherwise the water hoses would not "swell", balloon, as engine speed rises beyond the point wherein the thermostat will accomodate the pump volume. Other than the current crop of hybrids, all equipped, to my knowledge, with electric water pumps, other manufacturers have already converted to electric pumps, if not altogether then at least apartially so, for the cabin heater.
[b]Get the picture..?
No...?[/b]
F) And finally....
The gear type ATF pump.
Like everything else above the most critical situation insofar as determining base pump volume occurs with the engine at idle.
Hmmmm..
Let's think this over a bit.
Just what "work" does the ATF pump have to do with the engine at idle?
Shifting from park or neutral to drive or reverse is clearly not critical insofar as pumping volume is concerned...
Upshifting once underway always involves engine RPM well above idle....
Aha, DOWNSHIFTING....
So, when does an automatic downshift with the engine at idle or nearly at idle.
Not for passing, kickdown, certainly...
But then how about just before coming to a full stop...?
Or during coastdown periods with the throttle fully closed...?
In both of these latter instances if the transaxle is to downshift lots of ATF pressure/flow will be required to ascertain the downshift clutches are quickly and firmly seated. Otherwise, with low or marginal ATF pressure these clutches would undoubtedly incur some serious level of slippage and the wear associated thereto.
So, the engineers say to each other, if we could eliminate just these two instances the ATF pump FIXED capacity could be a LOT lower and that would undoubtedly inprove FE overall while reducing the heat load and clutch wear rate.
Say, what does a stick shift driver do in these instances. Well as the cars coasts to a stop teh driver would normally disenage the clutch and slip the transmission into 1st.
Well, we can't disenage the clutch....Can we...??
Sure can, simply "upshift" the transaxle a few notches, no substantial level of engine compression braking, NO transaxle clutch wear. Who cares if the upshifted clutches don't quickly fully and firmly engage...!
But what about coastdown periods at 40-30MPH with the engine at idle...?
Why not upshift then too, who's to notice?
________________________________________
The theory behind the above dissertation arose because I noticed a seeming abiguity between my earlier theory, "protect the drive train using DBW to prevent engine compression braking.'
Owners have been reporting that while in cruise control the engine/transaxle ECU will actually command a downshift to retard roadspeed going down a hill.
Me..."What? Downshift a FWD or F/AWD vehicle and actually take advantage of engine compression
According to various posts on the internet in some cases they will foot the entire bill, in others only the cost of the new transaxle and the owner pays the labor.
I would go back and open a discussion with the dealer on this matter and willingly start a shouting match in the dealer's showroom if they don't offer a substantial level of compensation.
As long as Toyota(Lexus) persists in using the LOW FIXED volume/capacity/displacement gear type ATF pump for FE reasons I don't know if there can be a satisfactory solution.
Toyota(Lexus) have made many "patches" and various fixes over the intervening 8 years but as yet I don't think they have yet announced a "final" across the board FIX.
The '99, and possibly the '00, series had premature, 80-100,000 miles, transaxle failures.
The '01, and likely all the way up to the RX330 series, tends to overheat the ATF to such a level that the scheduled maintenance recommendation for ATF flush/refill was reduced from infinity to 15,000 miles.
The RX330 came with DBW to prevent transaxle downshifts, "kickdowns", at times when the ATF pressure had been just previously exhausted and no "make up" was readily available due to the low volume pump and engine speed at idle.
A little noticed aspect of the RX330 series was that the VC, Viscous Clutch, was dropped from the driveline for the entire RX330 product run. IMMHO it is possible this was done to reduce the AWD load on the transaxle.
There is an indication that the latest TSB, provided, seemingly, only to owners with specific complaints, is solving the problem on the '08 Camry.
Anyone know the bottom line news on the '08 RX?
Thanks.
The other SUV that you might consider is the Acura RDX.