Have a 2002 with 60,000. Developed a shudder when turning right or left at low speed. Fix is explained in GM Document ID# 1242381. The problem is the encoder motor module in the transfer case. It needs replaced/reprogramed and the case flushed. Had it done and it runs great. Other than this problem the SUV has been great. In fact, I just came back from Florida and put a total of 5200 miles on with an averaged 19.4 MPG.
Have the answer to your problem. check out my posting # 52. That is your problem. Since the fix I have had no shudder when turning left/right into a parking spot.
mkoempel, I just bought a 2002 Bravada and it has the same problem that you had with the bad vibration/jamming at slow speeds while turning. Where do I find the document that you referred to in posting 52? (GM Document ID# 1242381)
I would like to get mine fixed as well. Thank you, much appreciated. -Joe
The Olds dealer gave it to me. Would suggest you go to a dealer and give them that document number. Can't see why they would not let you see it or copy it.
I just got my 2000 Bravada fixed from this problem (I only have 59,000 miles on it). I had to replace the whole fuel pump module. The first time it happened, it seemed like I was out of gas. I found it to be kinda weird because I had just put 20 bucks in the day before. But this same day, my fuel gauge went haywire and just stayed where it wanted to. SO I tried to keep the truck full of gas. I would be driving down the road and the engine would just quit. But after letting it sit for about a minute, it would start again and would be ok until the next time. When I asked the manager at the dealership why the fuel pump would go out after only having 59,000 miles on it and he just said they go when they go......So $600.00 later all seems to be working fine.
I am too also having that problem when pulling into or backing into a parking space and when the wheels are turned very sharp, it sounds like something is about to break. Hopefully it will last me until I can get that fixed later.
You may have already gotten this info. but I thought it might be of general interest. In 1999 GM went to a mechanical differential for the full time 4 wd Bravada rather than the hydraulic that predated those vehicles. The dif. fluid turned out to not be :"slippery" enough at operating temps to allow the clutch pak to let the differentials compensate for the turning speeds. The listed part no. is now a readily available dif. fluid, blue in color from GM, that really does relieve the problem. You may have to have it changed twice over time in order to get the old style fluid completely purged from the transfer case. On the Bravado there is no transfer case control module or reprogramming necessary as referred to below. Just change the fluid.
2002 Oldsmobile Truck Bravada 4WD L6-4.2L VIN S Vehicle Level Technical Service Bulletins Customer Interest Drivetrain - Shudder/Binding/Feels Like Stuck in 4WD Drivetrain - Shudder/Binding/Feels Like Stuck in 4WD File In Section: 04 - Driveline Axle Bulletin No.: 02-04-21-008A Date: February, 2003 TECHNICAL Subject: Shudder, Rocking Motion, Binding, Feels Like Vehicle is Stuck in 4WD (Crow Hop) When Turning at Low Speeds (Replace Transfer Case Encoder Sensor and Reprogram TCCM) Models: 2002-2003 Chevrolet TrailBlazer 2002-2003 GMC Envoy 2002-2003 Oldsmobile Bravada This bulletin is being revised to update the service procedure and incorporate the fluid exchange. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 02-04-21-008 (Section 04 - Driveline Axle). Condition Some customers may comment that when turning, the vehicle feels like it is binding, or the vehicle feels like it is stuck in 4WD (crow hop), or that the 4WD system is not working correctly. A shudder type sensation is felt. Technician Diagnosis This intermittent condition may be difficult to duplicate. The potential is there at all times for the Bravada. The potential is only present in the Auto Mode of the transfer case with the TrailBlazer or Envoy. Correction Important : It is extremely important to check all of the tires before repairs are attempted for these types of customer concerns. Mismatched tires may cause these type of customer concerns. Inspect the tires in the following areas:
^ Ensure that the tires are inflated to the recommended tire pressure as listed on the tire placard on the driver's door.
^ Use a tire tread depth gauge to determine the tread depth. The tire tread depth must be nearly equal on all four corners of the vehicle.
^ Ensure that the tires are all the same brand, size, and tread design.
Important: Pay particular attention so that the proper parts are replaced. The parts terminology is somewhat confusing. You will be replacing the encoder (sensor) and gasket not the complete motor assembly. (Note: Bravada full time 4wd does NOT have the motor or encoder.) Currently, the General Motors Parts Catalog lists the following names:
^ Motor Asm, Trfer Case Encoder (This is the Encoder (Sensor). It looks like a donut with three (3) contacts on one side).
^ Gasket.
^ Actuator Asm, Trfer Case Four Whl Drv (This is the complete motor assembly consisting of the Motor and housing, the Motor Asm, the Trfer Case Encoder (Sensor), and the gasket).
Use the following procedure to replace the Motor Asm, Trfer Case Encoder (Sensor) and Gasket.
1. If the vehicle is a TrailBlazer or Envoy, place the 4WD selector switch in the 2 HI position.
2. Raise the vehicle.
3. Disconnect the wiring harness connector at the top of the transfer case.
4. Remove the Actuator Asm, Trfer Case Four WhI Drv (Motor) mounting bolts.
5. Remove the motor from the transfer case and set aside.
6. Position an oil drain container into position under the transfer case drain plug. Remove the drain plug and allow the transfer case to drain. 7. Position the motor on a work bench and you will see four retaining tabs that retain the gasket to the motor. Release the tabs to allow removal and discard the gasket.
Important: Gently lift and tilt the sensor toward the wiring connector wiring to disconnect it. You will notice the two wires to the motor. The red and black wires go to an internal connector within the motor housing. The black plastic connector for these wires does not have a locking tab and is easily disturbed.
8. Lift/pry the sensor from the motor shaft. Disconnect the sensor from the wiring harness.
Important: Look at the motor where you just removed the sensor. You will notice the Hex" in the casting where the new sensor will seat when properly installed.
9. Connect the wiring harness to the sensor.
10. Gently insert a suitable tool along side the red and black wires and press down on the black plastic connector to ensure the connector is in the proper position.
11. Properly align the key way of the sensor on the shaft and install the sensor. Ensure that the hex on the sensor fits in the hex of the casting.
12. Install the new gasket assembly. 13. Inspect the positioning of the gasket and the motor shaft. If necessary to align them as shown, perform the following steps.
^ Connect a fused jumper to the transfer case encoder motor connector red wire and the other end to a positive battery terminal.
^ Connect another jumper to the transfer case encoder motor connector black wire and momentarily touch the other end of this wire to the ground terminal of a battery. This will cause the motor shaft to turn to allow alignment as shown.
Important: Inspect the encoder motor attachment face for the presence of the two (2) locating sleeves. If missing from the encoder motor, they need to be retrieved from the transfer case and reinstalled into the encoder motor before installation. 14. Position the motor to the transfer case and install the retainers. Tighten Tighten the bolts to 16 N.m (12 lb ft).
15. Apply pipe sealant, P/N 12346004 (Canadian P/N 10953480), or equivalent, to the drain plug threads. Install the transfer case drain plug.
Tighten
Tighten the plug to 27 N.m (20 lb ft).
16. Refill the transfer case with 1.8 L (2 qts) of Auto Trac II Transfer case lubricant, P/N 12378508 (Canadian P/N 10953626).
17. Apply pipe sealant, P/N 12346004 (Canadian P/N 10953480), or equivalent, to the fill plug threads. Install the fill plug.
Tighten
Tighten the plug to 27 N.m (20 lb ft).
18. Lower the vehicle.
19. Connect the Tech 2(R) and use SPS reprogramming to reprogram the transfer case control module (TCCM) with TIS software version 11, released October 2002 or newer.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
I have a 97 Olds Bravada. When I step on the gas, and right when I let off the gas, I hear a "chirping" noise. Almost sounds like a bird. Anyone know what this might be?
hi, maybe you can help me , we bought a used 2002 bravada, and has been running great, until today, it ran well this morning and then i went out to start it and it turns over but thr service enginelight comes on and the reduced engine power light also. it acts like it isnt gettina ny fuel or the the throole control is stuck or something it also has alot of compression and lot of batter juice but it wont start and we only had for a month and a half would you know where i could find help or who would know what the causes is to this thanks for your help :mad:
Wow, I guess it could be a few different things. I thought (was hoping) my problem was just the fuel filter, but mine kept acting like it would run out of gas and stall. But would start right back up after a minute and go for a little bit and then it would do it again. I knew it was something more than the fuel filter. It almost seemed like I had a lot of garbage in my tank and it was clogging up the fuel pump. Also, my gas guage went ballistic too, stopped working, stayed at a half of tank. The guy at the shop put it on this machine (not the diagnostic machine) I forgot what it was called, but I guess this machine would run all night......?.....to verify if it was the fuel pump or not. It was the fuel pump. I had to have the whole module replaced. It fixed the fuel guage too. Be sure to take it to where you bought it if you have a warranty or not, you can ask about the secret warranty but it has to be at the dealership. Curiosity--how many miles does your Bravada have on it? Good luck and let us know how it turns out. I wish I could help you more......
Ditto. I am having the same problem too, the blinker (turn signal) continues to make the "bing-bing" sound. If anyone has any ideas or knows how I can correct the problem.
I have had my Bravada for a few months now. Came from my sister in law. It runs great but when I pull up my driveway (in the mountains) it slips and thunks. Does anybody know if the Transfer case has a chain in it?
I bought my Bravada new and now it's ready to turn 100,000 miles. All the while the car has had the grinding, popping, thunking noise when turning hard left or right. I thought the bottom was going to drop out of it. Then last tuesday I found this site and read about the bulletin GM put out awhile back. Wednesday, yesterday, I had the fluid changed as outlined above and now I have a totally different Bravada. I have always enjoyed owning and driving it and it still looks and drives great especially now that the growl is gone.
hello gang , i had recently had problems with my bravada it was in the shop for 2 weeks and come to find out these bravadas have a thing which is called the throttle body , these go out all the time, the butterfly inside the throttle body ceased up and wouldnt let the vehicle start, it will turnover, if you get this the light on the dash will come on as reduced engines power and service soon, also they found uder the vortec lid was a mouse nest, if you ley it set out to lond mice will get into there an chew alll the throttle body wires up like miune , it is expenxive if you dont have a warrant on it the cost of the part is 233.43 for throttle body part and labor cost me about 300.oo dollars so if any of you are out there and had this trouble beware of the MICE.
:sick: I have a 94 bravada and it is doing that same thing. It finally died on me last night, that is why I came here, and tada!!! Here is my answer. I thought it may be the fuel pump, just wanted someone elses opinion. Thanks guys.
94 bravavda 4.3 cpi headers, flowmaster, lowered 3 inches cold air intake, electric fans w/aluminum radiator.
My name is Pete and I'm new to this forum, but not to Oldsmobiles. This is my fifth Oldsmobile. I just sold a nice 1970 Oldsmobile 442 W-30.
Anyway, I now own a 2004 Oldsmobile Bravada AWD. With the exception of not having the option to choose 2wd to 4wd or A4wd, I'm very happy with this vehicle.
I do feel that there is a problem with it. When you are at a stop light and then start to accelerate (On both dry and wet pavement), you can feel a light 'bucking sound'. It sounds like its coming from underneath the vehicle. When you give it allot of gas, you can then really feel it. :confuse:
I had the service department look at it and they couldn't hear or feel anything. :mad:
Now with that said, is this a normality of AWD vehicles? or did someone else have the same issue and if so, what did they do to correct it?
Hello, I grew up in Detroit, GM vehicles in family since the 20's, family has more than 80 years employment by GM. -Bought 1998 Bravada (fourth Old's), brand new, loaded, absolutely a marvelous vehicle, leather great, radio fantastic, brakes best ever. -Probelms abounded, back to dealer second day, ac sensor failed -End of week back for noise in right front wheel 'a' frames, dealer refused to inspect until 1k miles -By end of first month, vehicle returned once a week for component failures -Right front end was missing two 'a' frame nuts (factory), extremely dangerous, we were lucky -Back for numerous front end alignments, would not hold alignment for more than five days, dealer never could fix -3k miles trany replaced -15k miles engine replaced along with the trany again -15k miles front transfer case replaced -some other problems within first six months, battery failure, ac freeze up, crunching noise when turning, master cylinder failure, fuel pump, right front wheel bearings, sensors, circuit cards, reprograming, drive train problems and the list goes on -vehicle spent more time in shop than on road in first nine months -motor replaced at 15k miles failed at 25k miles along with trany number two -vehicle returned per 'lemon law' at 32k miles after being parked for four months during litigation, motor #2 was going away, unsafe to drive -drive from home to dealer, 18 miles, engine blew up and destroyed trany number three
Observation, service area was packed nearly everyday with warranty work on Cad's, Old's, Buick's over basic oil changes and basic service
Net result, bought a new sedan from another manufacturer and it only goes back to the dealer for oil changes and basic service requirements
I agree, the Bravada is a really nice vehicle, only if it could be reliable, you either love it or hate it, it's either a good one or a pain in the keester. We'll NEVER BUY GM products again, NEVER.
By the way, the fuel pump and the 'mouse' house can be bought for half price and half the labor, but not at the dealer.
For those people who had their Bravadas serviced to correct the tight steering issue as outlined in the GM Bulletin, what did you have to pay to get this problem fixed?
Just purchased a 2002 used Bravada w/ 70k on it. Love it thus far, but I did experience the turning issue once.
The dealership and everyone who I've spoken with who owns a Bravada between the years of 2002 - 2004 have the same issue. Its actually normal because its the all wheel drive transferring the power to the front wheels under hard acceleration.
Anyway, I'm selling my Bravada if you know of anyone who is interested in it. The vehicle is being sold for $16,500 because I decided to buy a new truck. The Bravada is in pristine condition.
HI BRAVADA OWNES, I WAS WONDERING IF ANY OF YOU HAVE HAD EXPERIENCED ANY PROBLEMS WITH THEW IGNITION AS ,WHEN YOU STICK THE KEY IN ,IT WONT START,AND ALSO IF YOU ALL HAD ANY THING WRONG WITH THE BRAKE SYSTEM, WHEN I STOPP AT A STOP SIGN OR JUST STOP, THE LIGHT FOR THE SERVICE FOR BRAKE SYSTEM SERVICE KEEPS COMING ON.THNKS
I know this is an old message, but I was wondering if the p/n listed here in the bulletin (12378508) for the Transfer Case Lubricant is the "new" fluid that should correct this issue on a 2002 Olds Bravada. (Since I'm a complete novice...is Transfer Case Lubricant the same as Differential Fluid?) I just found out that the price for the encoder motor is $485 plus 1.5 hrs labor to replace and reprogram the encoder. If the fluid really does fix it, then I will do that, and I just wanted to make sure this was the p/n to be used.
Hey guys, I have a 2000 Platinum Bravada and guess what...issues. I have replaced both(L/R) front HUB assemblies twice. The sunroof for some reason has come off track, but closes. When it rains water gets stuck in the rear roof area and sloshes around inside some where. I get the same binding/stalling sensation when cutting the wheels in forward and rev. at low speed. Don't get me wrong the vehicle has 110,000 mi. and I love it, but I feel like whenever I fix something another problem pops up :mad: . The latest problem is a pretty bad vibration occurring between 65 and 80 mph. IF ANYONE HAS ANY SUGGESTIONS TO HELP WITH ANY THIS PLEASE LET ME KNOW, THANKS.
I now have a new problem. The Service Engine has just come on and I'm not sure what it is, but everything is running fine, I think. The weird thing is when I bring it in for inspection they always ask if this light is on. What does it mean? I was thinking it was one of the air sensors...maybe?
I also had the same problem with my 2004 Final 500 Bravada. At 27,000 miles, it became so bad that the dealership tore down the transmission and found that water had been seeping in through a cracked case and was mixing with the transmission fluid. The entire transmission is being replaced under warranty.
Has anyone experienced their Bravada key getting stuck in the ignition once the car is turned off. The brake, abs and check engine light all come on while it is driving and once the car is shut off, the key will not come out. We have had the ignition switch and battery replaced, but it still happens. Also, I noted recently that it is really sluggish at accelerating when the lights come on before I shut it off. If I pull the starter fuse out, the key will release, but diagnostic do not show a problem? Maybe it is a ghost!!! :confuse:
This Post was extremely helpful to me. I own a 2002 Olds Bravada and experienced the problems described in this, and other posts on this site. It would feel as though it was stuck in 4 wheel drive in a parking lot when I would attempt to turn the wheels at low speeds. I would feel the "shuddering" and "crop hop" as described. It started doing this shortly after I bought it a few years ago and slowly got worse and more frequent.
I decided to give it a try and change the transfer case fluid, especially since it was cheap ($6.50/quart - 2 quart capacity) and easy to do. The fluid that I drained out was greenish in color. I assume it was the factory fluid and had never been changed. The NEW fluid (GM Auto Trac II transfer case fluid p/n 12378508) was definitely a bluish color. It was as easy as changing the engine oil, but not quite as easy to refill. The fill plug is located high up, and getting a full quart up in there is all but impossible. I used a cheap fluid transfer hand pump that I had purchased a while ago, and never had much use for until now.
I noticed instant results. No more chattering, shuddering, crow hop, or whatever else you want to call it. I have tried to get it to happen again, cutting the wheels hard in a parking lot when pulling into or out of a parking spot. Nothing.
I purchased another 2 quarts of fluid with the intentions of changing it again, but it has been working well. I may just leave it. One thing I was a little confused about was the part of the GM bulletin that reads "The Bravada full time 4wd does NOT have the motor or encoder." I saw what looks like an encoder on my transfer case, and my Bravada is full time/non-selectable 4wd. I don't know what else it could be. If anyone else has information on this, please pass it on. At any rate, nothing needed done but the changing of the fluid.
I just wanted to say that this site, and especially the posts on this particular problem have helped me immensely. I was starting to get really frustrated with this problem, and from the way the Bravada was acting, thought for sure it was going to be a big dollar fix. What a pleasant surprise to be able to fix it so quick, cheap, and most of all, by myself! Thanks again.
Has anyone experienced the AWD not properly engaging. In heavy snow or on ice (I'm a michigander) the front wheels appear to be attempting to engage, but the hubs just slip and a very audible CLICK is made. My local shop had it in today but couldn't tell me what was wrong and has referred me to the dealer. Fluid is full and I have had no strange noise or anything else that would have lead to believe I had a problem developing.
Thanks again guys. I may have crack in my transmission but now there is oil of some type(not enough to really tell) along the front axle or cv shaft. I have yet to check the tranny fluid for water. I also can't say if the check engine light correlated with the new leak. I'm actually having a friend take it in have the codes pulled to see what pops up and have transfer case fluid changed. If anyone has any input feel free My POOR Bravada needs it more than me!
I JUST GOT A 2002 BRAVADA WITH 64,000 MILES ON IT,I NEED HELP, PLEASE LET ME KNOW WHATS WRONG WITH MY BEAST. ON THE BOTTOM OF THE MOTOR WAS COVERED WITH OIL THATS BEEN THERE FOR A LONG TIME, WHEN I TOOK IT BACK TO THE DEALER THEY TOLD ME THAT THEY CAN NOT FIND THE OIL LEAK. THE SERP BELT IS SOAKED WITH OIL AND THE ALTERNATER HAS OIL ON THE SIDE OF IT. IF ANYBODY HAD THIS PROBLEM PLEASE LET ME KNOW WHAT I CAN DO ABOUT IT. ITS FUNNY THAT THEY CAN'T FIND THE LEAK AFTER CLEANING THE BOTTOM OF MOTOR. AND THEY SAY ITS FINE TO DRIVE IT JUST KEEP OIL IN THE CAR. HELP ME
I had a similar experience only it was with my wife's Dodge Van. The dealership overfilled the oil big time. Instead of 5 quarts, they had 9 quarts in it. I quickly drained it myself and put in the proper level. The Bravadas take 7 quarts and I'm guessing you are probably properly filled. Based on what your describe, I wonder if the oil filter is not tightened properly or if the gasket from a previous filter is stuck on there so you are aren't getting a good seal? If this has just started, maybe get another oil change at a different place? :confuse:
Hi I hope you will be able to send me in the right direction. I have a 1998 Oldmobile Bravada and am having some issues with it. My AWD light is on and I have no idea what step to take from here. My husband is a mechanic and we will be able to do the work ourselves we just need some guidance as to where to start off. if anyone can set us up in the right direction I would appereciate it. Thanks Alyson Tremer, NJ
I recentley had the same problem and I needed new tires all around I hope this is a nice easy fix for you, mine would vibrate so badly when I reached certain speeds it worried me. A balance might also be in order. Hope this helps.
we had the same problem ,in our 2002 bravada we took it to a dealer is your best bet, and have them do a diagonsis on it and will tell you want is wrong. i hope this help
Hello All... I just purchased a 2002 Bravada fully loaded a couple of months ago and love it ... I have 2 questions and I cant figure them out and hopefully someone has the answers because I looked through the whole manual and couldn't find anything... anyways, I have heated leather seats and now the driver's side quit working but the passenger's side is fine... i was wondering if there is a separate fuse that might need changed... also is there an option to set your dome light to come on when you take the key out because the only way I can get it to come on is by manually turning it on or pushing the unlock doors on the key pad... any suggestions????? :confuse:
Hello All... I am having problems with my rear window wiper getting caught between the window and hatchback... I replace the wiper with a thicker blade and it is still happening... I'm afraid of breaking the wiper off or burning up the motor so for temporary I moved the wiper up so it lays on the rear window and I can't open the window... any suggestions??? :confuse:
there are two fuse boxes ,one is under the hood and one is under the back seat on drivers side it is a black box,and for the dome light you need to change your control setting on the steering wheel lower right hand it has a arrow shape on it hope this helps.
I knew about other fuse box located behind the driver's side but I cant find anything listed about fuses for the heated seats but there are abbreviations that I don't know what they mean... :confuse: with the dome light I figured it out... my dome lamp override option was set to remain off so I changed the setting... thanks for the input... Have a nice day!!!
We had this problem with our 99 Bravada. The dealer replaced the entire turn signal assembly, it cost about $1000 if I remember correctly. I had replaced the flasher with no success.
Hope this info helps. Included a link to more info at bottom
HEATED SEATS SYSTEM COMPONENTS The heated seats system for the driver and passenger seat consists of the following components:
Driver and passenger door modules Driver and passenger heated seat switches Driver and passenger seat back heater elements Driver and passenger seat back heat sensors Driver and passenger seat cushion heater elements Memory seat module Passenger seat module HEATED SEATS SYSTEM OPERATION The driver and passenger heated seats have 2 heat zone operating modes with 3 heat level modes and will operate only while the engine is running. The heat zones are determined by which of the 2 heated seat buttons are pressed, while the heat level is determined by the number of times they are pressed. Pressing the seat cushion button 1 time will activate the seat back and cushion heater elements in the high mode. Each time the seat cushion button is pressed the seat back and cushion heat level is reduced from high to medium, low, and off. Pressing the heated seat back button 1 time will activate only the seat back heater element in the high mode. Each time the seat back button is pressed the seat back heat level is reduced from high to medium, low, and off. During heated seat operation the heat zone operating mode may be changed without affecting the current heat level mode.
The heated seat switches are momentary contact switches and are inputs to the driver and passenger door modules. Battery voltage is supplied to the switch assembly from the door module, and when a heated seat switch is pressed and released a brief switch signal voltage is supplied to the door module. Whenever the door module receives an active heated seat switch input, the next heated seat operating mode is determined by whatever the current mode may be. The seat heater elements are controlled by the driver memory and passenger seat modules using inputs from the door modules through Class 2 serial data circuit messages. When activating any of the heated seat operating modes, the seat module switches battery voltage to the heater element supply circuits. All of the seat heater elements are grounded by the seat modules through individual low reference circuits. The heater element low reference circuits are pulse width modulated control circuits and are used by the seat modules to control the seat heat zones and temperatures by regulating the current flow through the heater elements. The seat modules rely on inputs from thermistors installed in the driver and passenger seat backs to control heated seat temperatures. The thermistors are 2 wire sensors supplied with a 5-volt referenced signal circuit and a low reference circuit from the memory seat module. Resistance through the thermistors varies with temperature causing the heated seat sensor signal circuit voltage levels to increase as the seat back temperatures rise. The seat modules allow heated seat operation only while the engine is running which is determined by a Class 2 serial data circuit message from the powertrain control module.
Hi, Some codes can be set for the Transfer Case control module. you will need to have the codes read first to see if there are any. Automatic 4WD
A scan tool must be used to retrieve DTCs from the Transfer Case Control Module (TCCM) memory. The use of a Tech 1 scan tool or equivalent will be needed to obtain both current and history DTCs.
Hello All... I have an update on the heated seat problem... I still haven't figured out what's going on with the heated seat and now I noticed that none of the adjustments for the driver seat is working either. I checked under the seats to make sure everything was connected properly and everything looks good. the passenger side is still fully functional. I also checked the fuse box under the back seat and all is good there... If anyone has any suggestions they would be greatly appreciated. :confuse: I would hate to waste extra money if I am able to fix myself... Have a wonderful day!!!
Yes, I have a 1999 Bravada. This morning when I put the key in to start it, I turned the key and nothing happened. The key was stuck and couldn't get it out. I do know there is a small hole on the steering column that you can insert a ball point pen it releases the key. But all the lights on the dash where blinking and on the right side of the dashboard there was a clicking sound. Could this be a short in wiring or bad fuse? Anyone have any suggestions? HELP :confuse:
Hello I just bought my wife a 1998 olds bravada.beautifull rig.went on a trip, and now the icon on the dash(little red man sitting with seatbelt and circle in his lap)comes on some times ,and goes out,some times for minute. sometimes stays on all day. is this the service air bag warning,is there a way to reset it, will the air bag go off, any info Thanks MAC
You can pull the fuse and clear it but to determine the reson requires a scanner that reads body codes - ie the dealer and it can be one of the sensors up front or a connection problem so get it checked out.
Comments
I just bought a 2002 Bravada and it has the same problem that you had with the bad vibration/jamming at slow speeds while turning. Where do I find the document that you referred to in posting 52? (GM Document ID# 1242381)
I would like to get mine fixed as well. Thank you, much appreciated. -Joe
The Olds dealer gave it to me. Would suggest you go to a dealer and give them that document number. Can't see why they would not let you see it or copy it.
Not having the shudder anymore so it is the fix.
Mike
I am too also having that problem when pulling into or backing into a parking space and when the wheels are turned very sharp, it sounds like something is about to break. Hopefully it will last me until I can get that fixed later.
2002 Oldsmobile Truck Bravada 4WD L6-4.2L VIN S
Vehicle Level Technical Service Bulletins Customer Interest Drivetrain - Shudder/Binding/Feels Like Stuck in 4WD
Drivetrain - Shudder/Binding/Feels Like Stuck in 4WD
File In Section: 04 - Driveline Axle
Bulletin No.: 02-04-21-008A
Date: February, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject:
Shudder, Rocking Motion, Binding, Feels Like Vehicle is Stuck in 4WD (Crow Hop) When Turning at Low Speeds (Replace Transfer Case Encoder Sensor and Reprogram TCCM)
Models:
2002-2003 Chevrolet TrailBlazer
2002-2003 GMC Envoy
2002-2003 Oldsmobile Bravada
This bulletin is being revised to update the service procedure and incorporate the fluid exchange. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 02-04-21-008 (Section 04 - Driveline Axle).
Condition
Some customers may comment that when turning, the vehicle feels like it is binding, or the vehicle feels like it is stuck in 4WD (crow hop), or that the 4WD system is not working correctly. A shudder type sensation is felt.
Technician Diagnosis
This intermittent condition may be difficult to duplicate. The potential is there at all times for the Bravada. The potential is only present in the Auto Mode of the transfer case with the TrailBlazer or Envoy.
Correction
Important : It is extremely important to check all of the tires before repairs are attempted for these types of customer concerns. Mismatched tires may cause these type of customer concerns. Inspect the tires in the following areas:
^ Ensure that the tires are inflated to the recommended tire pressure as listed on the tire placard on the driver's door.
^ Use a tire tread depth gauge to determine the tread depth. The tire tread depth must be nearly equal on all four corners of the vehicle.
^ Ensure that the tires are all the same brand, size, and tread design.
Important: Pay particular attention so that the proper parts are replaced. The parts terminology is somewhat confusing. You will be replacing the encoder (sensor) and gasket not the complete motor assembly.
(Note: Bravada full time 4wd does NOT have the motor or encoder.)
Currently, the General Motors Parts Catalog lists the following names:
^ Motor Asm, Trfer Case Encoder (This is the Encoder (Sensor). It looks like a donut with three (3) contacts on one side).
^ Gasket.
^ Actuator Asm, Trfer Case Four Whl Drv (This is the complete motor assembly consisting of the Motor and housing, the Motor Asm, the Trfer Case Encoder (Sensor), and the gasket).
Use the following procedure to replace the Motor Asm, Trfer Case Encoder (Sensor) and Gasket.
1. If the vehicle is a TrailBlazer or Envoy, place the 4WD selector switch in the 2 HI position.
2. Raise the vehicle.
3. Disconnect the wiring harness connector at the top of the transfer case.
4. Remove the Actuator Asm, Trfer Case Four WhI Drv (Motor) mounting bolts.
5. Remove the motor from the transfer case and set aside.
6. Position an oil drain container into position under the transfer case drain plug. Remove the drain plug and allow the transfer case to drain.
7. Position the motor on a work bench and you will see four retaining tabs that retain the gasket to the motor. Release the tabs to allow removal and discard the gasket.
Important: Gently lift and tilt the sensor toward the wiring connector wiring to disconnect it. You will notice the two wires to the motor. The red and black wires go to an internal connector within the motor housing. The black plastic connector for these wires does not have a locking tab and is easily disturbed.
8. Lift/pry the sensor from the motor shaft. Disconnect the sensor from the wiring harness.
Important: Look at the motor where you just removed the sensor. You will notice the Hex" in the casting where the new sensor will seat when properly installed.
9. Connect the wiring harness to the sensor.
10. Gently insert a suitable tool along side the red and black wires and press down on the black plastic connector to ensure the connector is in the proper position.
11. Properly align the key way of the sensor on the shaft and install the sensor. Ensure that the hex on the sensor fits in the hex of the casting.
12. Install the new gasket assembly.
13. Inspect the positioning of the gasket and the motor shaft. If necessary to align them as shown, perform the following steps.
^ Connect a fused jumper to the transfer case encoder motor connector red wire and the other end to a positive battery terminal.
^ Connect another jumper to the transfer case encoder motor connector black wire and momentarily touch the other end of this wire to the ground terminal of a battery. This will cause the motor shaft to turn to allow alignment as shown.
Important: Inspect the encoder motor attachment face for the presence of the two (2) locating sleeves. If missing from the encoder motor, they need to be retrieved from the transfer case and reinstalled into the encoder motor before installation.
14. Position the motor to the transfer case and install the retainers.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 16 N.m (12 lb ft).
15. Apply pipe sealant, P/N 12346004 (Canadian P/N 10953480), or equivalent, to the drain plug threads. Install the transfer case drain plug.
Tighten
Tighten the plug to 27 N.m (20 lb ft).
16. Refill the transfer case with 1.8 L (2 qts) of Auto Trac II Transfer case lubricant, P/N 12378508 (Canadian P/N 10953626).
17. Apply pipe sealant, P/N 12346004 (Canadian P/N 10953480), or equivalent, to the fill plug threads. Install the fill plug.
Tighten
Tighten the plug to 27 N.m (20 lb ft).
18. Lower the vehicle.
19. Connect the Tech 2(R) and use SPS reprogramming to reprogram the transfer case control module (TCCM) with TIS software version 11, released October 2002 or newer.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Good luck and let us know how it turns out. I wish I could help you more......
Thanks
94 bravavda 4.3 cpi
headers, flowmaster, lowered 3 inches
cold air intake, electric fans w/aluminum radiator.
My name is Pete and I'm new to this forum, but not to Oldsmobiles. This is my fifth Oldsmobile. I just sold a nice 1970 Oldsmobile 442 W-30.
Anyway, I now own a 2004 Oldsmobile Bravada AWD. With the exception of not having the option to choose 2wd to 4wd or A4wd, I'm very happy with this vehicle.
I do feel that there is a problem with it. When you are at a stop light and then start to accelerate (On both dry and wet pavement), you can feel a light 'bucking sound'. It sounds like its coming from underneath the vehicle. When you give it allot of gas, you can then really feel it. :confuse:
I had the service department look at it and they couldn't hear or feel anything. :mad:
Now with that said, is this a normality of AWD vehicles? or did someone else have the same issue and if so, what did they do to correct it?
Thank you for your answers.
Peter
I grew up in Detroit, GM vehicles in family since the 20's, family has more than 80 years employment by GM.
-Bought 1998 Bravada (fourth Old's), brand new, loaded, absolutely a marvelous vehicle, leather great, radio fantastic, brakes best ever.
-Probelms abounded, back to dealer second day, ac sensor failed
-End of week back for noise in right front wheel 'a' frames, dealer refused to inspect until 1k miles
-By end of first month, vehicle returned once a week for component failures
-Right front end was missing two 'a' frame nuts (factory), extremely dangerous, we were lucky
-Back for numerous front end alignments, would not hold alignment for more than five days, dealer never could fix
-3k miles trany replaced
-15k miles engine replaced along with the trany again
-15k miles front transfer case replaced
-some other problems within first six months, battery failure, ac freeze up, crunching noise when turning, master cylinder failure, fuel pump, right front wheel bearings, sensors, circuit cards, reprograming, drive train problems and the list goes on
-vehicle spent more time in shop than on road in first nine months
-motor replaced at 15k miles failed at 25k miles along with trany number two
-vehicle returned per 'lemon law' at 32k miles after being parked for four months during litigation, motor #2 was going away, unsafe to drive
-drive from home to dealer, 18 miles, engine blew up and destroyed trany number three
Observation, service area was packed nearly everyday with warranty work on Cad's, Old's, Buick's over basic oil changes and basic service
Net result, bought a new sedan from another manufacturer and it only goes back to the dealer for oil changes and basic service requirements
I agree, the Bravada is a really nice vehicle, only if it could be reliable, you either love it or hate it, it's either a good one or a pain in the keester. We'll NEVER BUY GM products again, NEVER.
By the way, the fuel pump and the 'mouse' house can be bought for half price and half the labor, but not at the dealer.
Good day
Just purchased a 2002 used Bravada w/ 70k on it. Love it thus far, but I did experience the turning issue once.
Thanks
Did you ever get an answer to this question?
I'm having the same problem and thought I would check here first.
Mine is a 2003 with 35,000 miles.
Rick
The dealership and everyone who I've spoken with who owns a Bravada between the years of 2002 - 2004 have the same issue. Its actually normal because its the all wheel drive transferring the power to the front wheels under hard acceleration.
Anyway, I'm selling my Bravada if you know of anyone who is interested in it. The vehicle is being sold for $16,500 because I decided to buy a new truck. The Bravada is in pristine condition.
Pete
I don't know anyone at the moment looking for one. If you have it on cars.com or ebay, let me know and I will pass the info on if something comes up.
Rick
I have a 2000 Platinum Bravada and guess what...issues. I have replaced both(L/R) front HUB assemblies twice. The sunroof for some reason has come off track, but closes. When it rains water gets stuck in the rear roof area and sloshes around inside some where. I get the same binding/stalling sensation when cutting the wheels in forward and rev. at low speed. Don't get me wrong the vehicle has 110,000 mi. and I love it, but I feel like whenever I fix something another problem pops up :mad: . The latest problem is a pretty bad vibration occurring between 65 and 80 mph. IF ANYONE HAS ANY SUGGESTIONS TO HELP WITH ANY THIS PLEASE LET ME KNOW, THANKS.
I decided to give it a try and change the transfer case fluid, especially since it was cheap ($6.50/quart - 2 quart capacity) and easy to do. The fluid that I drained out was greenish in color. I assume it was the factory fluid and had never been changed. The NEW fluid (GM Auto Trac II transfer case fluid p/n 12378508) was definitely a bluish color. It was as easy as changing the engine oil, but not quite as easy to refill. The fill plug is located high up, and getting a full quart up in there is all but impossible. I used a cheap fluid transfer hand pump that I had purchased a while ago, and never had much use for until now.
I noticed instant results. No more chattering, shuddering, crow hop, or whatever else you want to call it. I have tried to get it to happen again, cutting the wheels hard in a parking lot when pulling into or out of a parking spot. Nothing.
I purchased another 2 quarts of fluid with the intentions of changing it again, but it has been working well. I may just leave it. One thing I was a little confused about was the part of the GM bulletin that reads "The Bravada full time 4wd does NOT have the motor or encoder." I saw what looks like an encoder on my transfer case, and my Bravada is full time/non-selectable 4wd. I don't know what else it could be. If anyone else has information on this, please pass it on. At any rate, nothing needed done but the changing of the fluid.
I just wanted to say that this site, and especially the posts on this particular problem have helped me immensely. I was starting to get really frustrated with this problem, and from the way the Bravada was acting, thought for sure it was going to be a big dollar fix. What a pleasant surprise to be able to fix it so quick, cheap, and most of all, by myself! Thanks again.
Thanks
HEATED SEATS SYSTEM COMPONENTS
The heated seats system for the driver and passenger seat consists of the following components:
Driver and passenger door modules
Driver and passenger heated seat switches
Driver and passenger seat back heater elements
Driver and passenger seat back heat sensors
Driver and passenger seat cushion heater elements
Memory seat module
Passenger seat module
HEATED SEATS SYSTEM OPERATION
The driver and passenger heated seats have 2 heat zone operating modes with 3 heat level modes and will operate only while the engine is running. The heat zones are determined by which of the 2 heated seat buttons are pressed, while the heat level is determined by the number of times they are pressed. Pressing the seat cushion button 1 time will activate the seat back and cushion heater elements in the high mode. Each time the seat cushion button is pressed the seat back and cushion heat level is reduced from high to medium, low, and off. Pressing the heated seat back button 1 time will activate only the seat back heater element in the high mode. Each time the seat back button is pressed the seat back heat level is reduced from high to medium, low, and off. During heated seat operation the heat zone operating mode may be changed without affecting the current heat level mode.
The heated seat switches are momentary contact switches and are inputs to the driver and passenger door modules. Battery voltage is supplied to the switch assembly from the door module, and when a heated seat switch is pressed and released a brief switch signal voltage is supplied to the door module. Whenever the door module receives an active heated seat switch input, the next heated seat operating mode is determined by whatever the current mode may be. The seat heater elements are controlled by the driver memory and passenger seat modules using inputs from the door modules through Class 2 serial data circuit messages. When activating any of the heated seat operating modes, the seat module switches battery voltage to the heater element supply circuits. All of the seat heater elements are grounded by the seat modules through individual low reference circuits. The heater element low reference circuits are pulse width modulated control circuits and are used by the seat modules to control the seat heat zones and temperatures by regulating the current flow through the heater elements. The seat modules rely on inputs from thermistors installed in the driver and passenger seat backs to control heated seat temperatures. The thermistors are 2 wire sensors supplied with a 5-volt referenced signal circuit and a low reference circuit from the memory seat module. Resistance through the thermistors varies with temperature causing the heated seat sensor signal circuit voltage levels to increase as the seat back temperatures rise. The seat modules allow heated seat operation only while the engine is running which is determined by a Class 2 serial data circuit message from the powertrain control module.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=4643734#post4643734
Automatic 4WD
A scan tool must be used to retrieve DTCs from the Transfer Case Control Module (TCCM) memory. The use of a Tech 1 scan tool or equivalent will be needed to obtain both current and history DTCs.
C0300 Rear Speed Sensor Malfunction
C0305 Front Speed Sensor Malfunction
C0308 Motor A/B Circuit Low
C0309 Motor A/B Circuit High
C0310 Motor A/B Circuit Open
C0315 Motor Ground Circuit Open
C0374 General System Malfunction
C0376 Front/Rear Shaft Speed Mismatch
C0550 ECU Malfunction
C0611 VIN Information Error
C0895 Device Voltage Malfunction
good luck
HELP :confuse:
I just bought my wife a 1998 olds bravada.beautifull rig.went on a trip, and now the icon on the dash(little red man sitting with seatbelt and circle in his lap)comes on some times ,and goes out,some times for minute. sometimes stays on all day. is this the service air bag warning,is there a way to reset it, will the air bag go off,
any info
Thanks
MAC