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Comments
I've been following this forum for a while as I am planning to buy an Optima in the near future. At first I was looking at a used 08 4-cyl (either LX or EX)-but due to both the total non-existance of any with the ABS/ESC pkg for sale here in Southeastern PA, plus the IRS sales tax credit for new cars in 09, I am now looking at a 09 LX 4-cyl with the convenience package.
There are a few 09s coming off rentals with 7k-12k miles showing up in my area in the $15k range. That seems on the high side to me. I don't think that the shorter warranty period & no sales tax credit (6% here in PA) would be worth the difference from new at that price range-esp. with the recent Kia $2K rebate which has now expired.
Given the above, would it be best for me to wait a while for a better deal on a new 09? I don't know if Kia will continue the rebate or not. However, I do want to take advantage of the IRS sales tax credit if I buy new. (I now drive a 03 Toyota Matrix with 135k miles, which I am planning to trade in for the Optima. The Matrix is basically sound but I've outgrown it given my driving habits. I also have a 95 Ford Escort with 247k(!) miles which would qualify me for a Kia Competitive Bonus as well.)
I plan to keep the Optima to at least 150k miles. Finally, I would rather try to complete any purchase before winter hits. Any thoughts welcome! Michael B.
This question has come up recently in the main Optima discussion. My advice is, if you can wait to year's end, do it. That is when the 09s will be closed out (Kia tends to chang-over late in the year) and dealers are driving to pump up their annual sales totals. Or if you like the current design, wait until next year when the redesigned 2011 Optima will be introduced, and there should be great deals on the remaining 2010s.
Try this.I bet you will find one.This is the best finder I haver ever seen.
35,000 miles,alloy wheels and the usual toys.Balance of the warranty...only $9,900.00 in Pontiac Illinois.
So with some luck, and willingness to travel maybe, it is possible to find a used Optima with ABS/ESC. But they are very rare.
Now have a new Kia 2009 LX anything I should know?
I carry a handicapped person out to my Winter home in Arizona and plan on leaving around the 20th of January, 2011. According to my never ending research, the '09/'10 models have a good reliability rating. The pricing is all asked, so some negotiating will be in order. Your valued opinions will be most appreciated.
If you must go used, I'd stay away from rentals. Rentals can get hard use (I know, I rent a lot of cars). Be sure to check the Carfax reports (not infallible, but useful) and get the service records, and talk with the prior owner if possible. Also check the original in-service date (will be on the Carfax), as that tells you how much warranty time the car has left. (A '09 could have as much as four years of warranty left, or as little as three.)
Personally I don't think I'd want to drive a black or red car in AZ, but at least it's winter.
I'd hoped that with the new Optima drawing buyers quite rapidly, that there might be some trade-ins. The dealers are all beefing that nothing is coming through the auctions that meets my criteria. Dark colors abound here. A lot of conservative folks populate this area and light colored cars are hard to see even in the other makes.
One '08 with 16K showed up at a Ford dealer 39 miles north of me. I'm almost tempted, since it was a one owner trade in to go and look at it at least. I wanted the ESC, ABS and BA, but they don't exist on the '08's. At least the available ones.
I have a light grey Ford at present and it's not too bad to a/c. I'm usually back from AZ before the blazing hot season starts.
On paper, it looks like a good car with OK gas mileage, plenty of room, improved styling on the 2009 and 2010s, good crash test results and most features I would want are standard other than bluetooth. Low resale prices seem to make it a good used car buy.
However, when I actually drove the car, I could not get comfortable in the drivers seat. If I raised the seat up off the floor so I wasn't sitting in a hole, it started tilting forward so it felt like it was dumping me forwards out of the seat and had no thigh support. If I lowered it so it the seat cushion tilted back and provided a bit of thigh support, it was way too close to the floor.
Maybe optional power the seat would help.
I see you need the Convenience Package on the LX or else an EX to get the power drivers seat. The Convenience Package also adds an outside temperature gauge that I also missed in the rental. The only other annoyance I noticed in a 20 minute drive is that the outside lights don't turn off unless you manually turn them off when you park and remove the key and there isn't a warning buzzer. The headlights turned off, but the parking lights stayed on. I waited a couple minutes to see if it would eventually fully turn off, but it didn't. Are full auto-off lights available?
Does anyone have one with power seat and does it let you raise the seat up high and still dip the back of the cushion downward so the cushion supports your thighs?
I found the manual driver's seat on the Optima OK, but I know what you are saying about the tipping forward. Many cars with the single-lever height adjuster do that. That's why I always liked the cars (including some Kias and Hyundais) with dual manual height adjusters. Very few new cars have that now. The Cruze is the only one I can think of offhand. You'll probably find the power seat more to your liking.
I may shop around for a used 2009 Optima LX or Sonata GLS or SE with power seat.
Otherwise I might look at 2009 Chevy Impala LT 3.5 V6s as they are much smoother, quieter and more comfortable to drive and get close to the same gas mileage cars like of the Optima 4 cylinder (easily beats Optima V6's in MPG) and seems to also be in close the same price range used.
Camry is comfortable enough, but I'm looking for cars that have lower resale values than a Camry.
Optima I4 is rated 25 mpg EPA overall, Impala 3.5L is 22. Not too far off.
The Sandman
2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2025 VW GTI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)
The problem is that I am getting around 20mpg on combined city/highway driving. Most of the mileage is on the Interstate for about 70 miles round trip 2X a week, max speed of 75. Kia reports NO trouble codes and left it at that.
Suggestions?
The day I bought it, I noticed how bad it drove. I've kept track of my mileage since day 1 and I average city/hwy 25 MPG (majority hwy). The dealer sticker said I should get close to 36 MPG HWY. Laws stipulate you should get no less than 2 MPG under what the sticker shows. Same deal as yours..."computer doesn't show anything wrong". The gears stick, I have sudden acceleration, already had to have a seat belt buckle replaced causing all my airbags to malfunction, gas cap replaced because it kept causing check engine codes, and the mileage isn't ANY better than the 7 passenger SUV I traded in for it. The dealership actually told me "MPG is only an estimate". They did a 1.6 mile test drive and it came back saying they got 38 MPG on their test. I told them it's the entire tank and I don't think 1.6 mile test is accurate. They then proceeded to explain it was more than likely my driving habits causing the low gas mileage. I explained to them that I don't run the AC because I have such poor acceleration that I look like a grandma behind the wheel, and I don't keep anything in my trunk causing excessive "weight". I also go the speed limit now. On a full tank, Im lucky if I get 360 miles. On a 16 gallon tank, filling up..my average is crap. I hate this car with ALL MY HEART. If I could run it off a cliff, I would. Biggest mistake I have ever made in my car buying decisions. Too bad my payments on an $11k car are almost $500 for 6 years...ya, Im getting raped.
strapped it over the visor and slide when needed for sun
The 04-05s had the one with the extension in it.
where you hear a thump/ clump, best I can describe.
On the left side of the front end, they changed the strut and
still could not find it. Went to the NTB tire franchise, they found it to be
a front sway bar and bushing. The issue started at around 8900 miles.
Just a heads up if anyone had the same issue. Tell the dealer what it is
they might not catch the issue. :shades: