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My other choices are the Altima 3.5 V6 (not a real choice since most Nissan dealers don't carry it) and the Honda Accord V6 (its seats are VERY uncomfortable). Other possible selections are in the luxury and sport category, such as the BMW328i and the Lexus IS250 and those vehicles are way beyond my budget.
Hopefully somebody will be able to reply to my original question about whether the Camry V6 has an acceleration hesitation problem. As nice as the car is, this potential problem is definitely a deal breaker.
So the quickly following 1-2 second downshift delay/hesitation remains embedded in the 2010 Camry.
Thanks,
Chris
"So the quickly following 1-2 second downshift delay/hesitation remains embedded in the 2010 Camry. "
I take your statement to mean that this design characteristic could be considered to be a latent defect depending on how it manifests itself with a particular driver's driving style and that it's impossible to predict in advance whether it will be a problem. This is too bad, because otherwise the Camry SE V6 is a sweet ride. Thanks for looking it up.
Drive it yourself.
Personally, I've concluded that the I-4 (even the older 2007 version) is more than adequate for our needs, and the last 3 years under many different driving conditions (and drivers) has held that to be true. But here again, some say they have to have the power of the V-6. I've driven both, I-4 is perfect for us. Drive them both and come to your own conclusions.
It seems strange that Toyota is still sticking with a known design flaw after 10 years knowing that alternative solutions, relatively simple solutions, are being used successfully.
What do you guys think? Avalon or Camry?
I haven't had a chance to drive a 2010 Camry SE V6 yet but I did drive a 2009 SE V6 and it seemed to take an eternity for it to respond to the accelerator pedal. The 1 ~ 2 second delay is unacceptable as it defeats the purpose of buying a mid-sized car with a big engine. My desire is virtually instantaneous response like the Nissan Altima 3.5 SE or the new Nissan Maxima, the 2009 SE V6 test drive car didn't deliver.
What would you recommend as an alternative mid-sized car with a V6 engine? Thanks again for replies.
In that context the new Toyota Venza F/awd with the I4 has my eye currently. But until it has DFI I will wait.
In a way I'm glad I don't have to car shop at the moment as too many technological improvements seem to be just over the horizon.
Love the look and concept of the Toyota A-BAT.
tia,
Chris
The ipod plug in the cubby to where? And is that as the crow flies, or as if you were going to route the cable along the dashboard?
It's actually deepr at the top of the chamber, but that's the minimum dimensions you should go with.
We stuff a lot in there, including the GPS, radar detector, cables, etc.
I've got a '05 Accord V6 that runs great, but it's so noisy at highway speeds, I'm looking at Camry. The 4 cyl will get me the higher Clunkers Cash, and I've got to say, it's almost as good at the V6 Camry, in terms of noise, handling, highway cruising. Sure, not as much pep when you floor it from a stop, but I can live without that.
Why so hung up on a V6?
Another way of looking at it is that for $1000 extra (i.e., getting only $3500 for your "clunker") you get a lot more car. For me it's a pile of "found money" either way since my SUV is virtually worthless with more than 200k miles on its clock.
Get a manual transmission Camry, like I did!
Get a manual transmission Camry, like I did!
I have a really long commute (45 miles one way...) and I know myself well enough to know that I would regret such a purchase. I drove a 5-speed Accord for 7 years and it was a blast on the open road but a real drag in stop-and-go traffic.
Thanks,
Chris
Also check out Toyota.com for more information regarding specs, options, etc.
Your '97 Accord isn't eligible for "cash for clunkers." To get the most money for it, you should try selling it yourself rather than trading it in. A dealer will give you next to nothing for it, assuming average miles and condition.
Become educated on what good deals are, and be prepared to jump on it when you get it. Research up front what options might typically be available and included in different trim levels, what the MRSP and invoice are for the vehicle you are looking at. Be careful as to what the dealer administrative fees are, some have aggressive pricing but then have some ridiculous administrative fees tacked on.
Do your research for comparison at www.fitzmall.com They are a very good no hassle dealership, with a great online website. They sit in a very competitive east coast DC area, and only CA is typically as competitive or slighty more competitive. They have no admin fees for internet sales on someone flying in (or driving, or taking train) to pick up a car, so their online price is an excellent price comparison for your local dealership. I think if I remember correctly, if you are local to fitz the admin fee is like $100 bucks, compared to $600 as standard where I live. Recognize however, that your local dealership may not be willing to go that low in total and hence, you'll either:
- have to pay slightly more
- go buy some other brand instead
- travel to one of fitzmalls sites
It's the local dealership who determines whether they want to do the deal or not. I used to get frustrated because I knew the dealership could go lower, and wouldn't. Just because they 'could', doesn't mean they 'will'. I don't get frustrated anymore, just be prepared to walk and go to another dealership. If you come across as a serious buyer and walk, you may very likely get a callback. Each dealership has different daily objectives. They may do a particular priced deal one day, and not accept it the next. They also don't want to waste a lot of time with anyone haggling. You can get in and get out in less than an hour, if you know your vehicle and competitive prices. They may be very willing to make a quick sale with you, to move some iron.
Do your research, know the vehicle, know every element of the financial deal (vehicle, admin fees, local tax, title/license fees, trade-if one, etc), arrange financing up front if you are not paying cash (but allow the dealership to try and beat it once you've agreed on an acceptable sales price), and pull the trigger when you get the deal you were looking for.
IOW, before you buy, give Ford a try.
Sorry Toyota, you have some catching up to do.
The Ford Fusion V6 is EPA rated at only 21 MPG so it was ruled out by whomever made up the rules for Cash For Clunkers. As nice as the Fusion may be, the marketplace reality is that Ford's cars are generally not as good as Toyota's. You can count on Ford to add insult to injury by selling a gazillion of them to car rental companies and government agencies.
Walk into the dealer, YOU made the first move.
Questions...
1. Can somebody with the inside scoop confirm this story?
2. The Camry SE V6 LA leather package description on Edmunds and KBB says that the passenger-side seat should be a power seat. Does this apply to LANL70? The dealer says that only the XLE is offered with a passenger-side power seat and that Edmunds and KBB are wrong. Can somebody confirm this part of the story?
Thanks in advance for replies!
But on the other hand, I have an 07 LE that we've had to 3 years now, which definitely does NOT have illuminated buttons, but I can't remember once where that was ever a problem.
I went out and re-verified, the radio buttons DO glow dimily when the lights are on. It's the cruise control stick that isn't lit.
Sorry, got my vehicles confused.
While driving it I listened to CNN via Sirius in the car; after we got back to the office
salesman found a model that should arrive within a few days to the dealership with the "correct" color (red). The description and costs are identical on the listings on both cars.
When I told him Sirius was working on the test drive car, he said that typically purchasers of this model get Sirius for free for 3 months, and then need to sign up a plan, AND THAT IS ALL THAT IS REQUIRED.
I look at the description of the radio on the car and it says:
JBL® AM/FM 6-disc in-dash CD changer with integrated satellite radio [6], MP3/WMA playback capability, auxiliary audio jack, USB port with iPod® [7] connectivity, hands-free phone capability and music streaming via Bluetooth® [8] wireless technology, eight speakers in six locations, Vacuum Fluorescent Display and FM diversity reception.
"integrated satellite radio" - does that mean I do NOT need to buy any additional hardware to make the Sirius work on the second car? I'm going to check it out before I take possession or complete the sale - I don't want to get the car and find out I need to pay $400 or more for a Sirius tuner! Can anyone tell me if this is indeed ready to go and just needs my subscription info only?
Otherwise this seems to be a great car!
Thanks for any input!
I am seriously considering upgrading to the Ford Fusion Hybrid. I was blown away when I sat in one that a coworker bought. Made my Camry Hybrid look cheap. Considering they cost about the same, Toyota will need to work extra extra hard if they want me to buy another one from them.
What to do:
1) Know for sure what options etc you want...
2) Call dealers and ask for internet sales manager or fleet manager.
3) Say you will buy today and tell them to give you there best price.
4) This price will probably be 250-750 higer than there best price.
5) Then ask them to send an e-mail quote and have each dealer continue to undercut the other.
6) In the end you will have the best deal
Its not a fun or easy process but you will save yourself potentially 1-2 thousand dollars.
Never walk in and ask for salesperson.. its a complete nightmare.
thanks,
Chris